Leon, you genius! I'm preparing to replace the windows on my sailboat and I learned a few things from this video that will save me from making stupid mistakes.
Leon, before you scrape with your profile tool, the first time you should spray the surface with the water. That will prevent the excess from getting on the window and the frame. it will still leave you with a perfect bead just like you finished, but you won’t have to wait and clean it up later.
I don't want to think about the mess I made sealing one of my boat windows in and the amount of time I spent tidying it up afterwards. Just discovered that I need to do the other side now and watching you demonstrate how to do it will make the next one so much easier. Thanks.
Thank You So Much. I was a glazier 20 years ago and thought I'd mastered it back then, but without much practice over the past decade, and now re-kickstarting my shipwright career and having a lot of caulking, i find myself feeling so dumb trying to relearn something I'd thought I'd perfected already. Failing miserably😢 And then, you come along with exactly the key steps I forgot about and put me back in the game super strong and confident, looking good at work again. Thank you my man again, you are a Godsend and a Pro's Pro Choice, God Bless!
Thank you so much. I’m about to start a big job and am delighted to know there is a tool to smooth the sealant - what a struggle I would have had without knowing that!
Big thanks from Australia Leon, Thanks so much for sharing! I was thinking soapy water was the product to get that nice tooled finish and you confirmed! Great job too and a very cheerful good morning you gave us in your video. Thanks again and have a great day!
Thank you! I am getting ready to seal the windows on my boat. I think I can do it myself after watching you. I also know people that are really good at their job make it look easy.
Am happy I found your video. You should see one of the windows I did, looks like a bomb of sikaflex exploded. Will clean it all of and do it again, but now (hopefully) like you did it. Am searching for the moulding kit, but haven't found it yet. Thanks so much for showing the correct way to do it.
Wish we saw this video three days go lol, but I think we made out ok for our first try. Thanks for the great video, we on the west coast of Canada need all the help we can get sometimes ....haha 😁
gday mate i have used sika marine on boats of mine before but didn't know about the white spirit cleaner for the final stage or leaving it till skinned so learnt something new today , i have to say you do a magnificent job .
@@leoncaputolan I shouldn't laugh Mike, but if I don't laugh I'll cry. I used to work on the tools and when ever it was time to caulk anything, baths etc I would get all the things out and run from my boss and hide. it's like the twilight zone when I caulk anything. I've rebuilt a vintage motor home and sure enough I did make a mess and yes my windows are leaking boo hoo. So thank you so much Leon, I learnt a lot from your video, very interesting about the bubbles and the sun I did not know that. So we're in covid lockdown here in Melbourne Australia, hopefully no one notices me outside doing my windows lol. It's urgent as water is getting in and having knee surgery in 5 days so won't be doing it then .
You should have sprayed the soap and water after you put your bead on. The caulking will stick to the dry glass and frame. When you scrape the Sika with the profile tool, the excess will not stick to the surrounding areas that are wet
@@leoncaputolan as long as it’s dry when you apply the caulking, you can spray whatever you want, water, spit, snot, cola, beer, wine… caulking won’t stick to wet, and will profile off with the tool.
Absolutely wrong. EVERY major quality sealant manufacturer in the USA says to dry tool. As a professional caulker the use of soapy water voids the warranty. Anyone showing up to a quality professional caulking company’s jobsite with soapy water is typically fired on the spot. Every quality major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with, if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest sealant manufacturers in the world) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.” Page 75 of Dow Construction Sealants Technical Manual. Sika at one time had a proprietary tooling agent. But they state in their Sikaflex general technical manual “ IMPORTANT NOTE: Tooling products such as solvents, detergents and other cleaners may cause tacky surfaces and accelerated aging” Then there is this …….Limitations: “on transparent or translucent substrates ( like glass) the adhesion of the bond line will fail if exposed to UV” He has zero knowledge of sealants. From the same Sikaflex technical guidelines manual.
@@mckeem1080absolutely wrong. You are right the sealant won’t stick. But you are absolutely wrong to think it’s ok to use soapy water. Every major sealant manufacturer in the USA says to dry tool They all say not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest sealant manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.” Page 75 of Dow Construction Sealants Technical Manual. Sika used to have a proprietary tooling aide. But in their Sikaflex general guidelines technical literature they say “ IMPORTANT NOTE: Tooling products such as solvents, detergents or other cleaners cause tacky surfaces and accelerated aging.” Sika says similar things in various technical manuals.( they have many) Anyone showing up with soapy water to a professional caulking company’s jobsite would most likely be fired on sight.
Very impressive, it’s obvious you’re a pro! Ik need to seal the glass windows on my boat, the edges will be covered with a chrome frame (small mahogany yacht from the sixties). I probably need to squeeze a bit along te edges and then clean it. I was wondering, do I need 295UV or is there another sikaflex I should use instead?
How would white sikaflex 295 u v hold up to moisture and mold .the boat is in Florida and it is pretty humid here I have been useing Boat Life Life Seal for years and thought how it would hold up . I am going to do a job on an 85 footers windows 2weeks from now and I am going to try your method on the 295 uv black hope it comes out as nice as yours.Thanks Capt Larry
So far after all this year's of using the Sika 295 UV..I never have any problem mold and moisture, few years back our boat have spend lots of time in the Caribbean and Florida...the 295 is very versatile product I have used is on most of my sealing job.
Legendary work mate.. i have a acrylic window above my helm station, it helps me see the sails..ive sealed it twice in 2 years and its started to leak again. Ive used sika 295 uv with the primer but dont beleive its tacky enough. Ive followed all the steps but the 295 doesnt seem to bond that well. The window sits in a 1" tray. Should i go for buytl tape in the tray and then use caulking top and bottom. And if so , what is your go to caulking?. Its a two day job and i want to get it right this time around. Great channel, ive learned a lot. TIA
i am not sure of what your project looks like, and to be honest with you i only used sika 295 on all my sealing job outside, is used it to seal our big bridge windows sometimes the bead is over an inch wide, they held well until now...maybe try sanding or give it a good scratching the area to be sika so the primer and the sika got something to hold on to, primer and sika doesn't bond well on a shiny surface ,and make sure you use a multi primer for the sika.
You can seal the nozzle with tape as much as possible, but it will eventually hardened,it start from the tip of the nozzle and then to the main tube..when you use it again..take the old nozzle off and clean the cured Sika or put a new nozzle if you have extra lying around,and when you open it if the hardened Sika is already on the tube, you can try stab is it with screw driver or any pointy object and try reach the still soft part then you will be able to squeeze it out..
Yes I use multi surface primer...but this particular project I did not use, reason 1..we did not digout completely the original seal which is still very good, so this sika is more of for aestistic, but mind you with primer or not this sika still sticks like shit in a blanket... Reason 2....if you put primer on this type of project without using tape ..first you have to apply the primer on much smaller width than your intended sika bead width otherwise the excess primer will show and it will not look good...
you can get it on any big hardware store that sells all type of sealant, or any marine chandlery., they come on any brand with different look and color, shape...but they do the same job, they are very cheap.
@@WinterTechIN theres a few names, grout scraper tool, profiling tool, plastic spatula...i will share here the link the one brand that we use onboard.. limasupply3.com/herramientasmaquinaria/maletines-kits-de-herramientas/kits-de-herramientas/joint-boy-kit-espatulas-plasticas-perfilar-4-un.html?srsltid=AR57-fD7lEQGQn3N0qgUTQusdnpITDsh_fN2SaNViwsF52yLJ1RN8dQEAOk
Nice video, I wish you showed how to do the 90 degree bends in the windows. A sharp 90 corner, it looks like you have some in your windows. I think it will be hard to keep a steady flow around that type of corner, and if you stop sika doesn't stay smooth. Do you have a particular method for that? Thanks
Yahh you're right..I wish I had shown how to do the corner...my trick to do the corner is as soon as you hit the corner try keep your composure as steady as you can and make sure you don't have too much excess sika on your profiling tool when you arrive in the corner..do it as steady as you can and let the tip and shape of your profiling tool do the rest..good luck 😉..and if you make a mess of it...do it again, practice is the key😉😉
@@leoncaputolan Hi Leon, Thanks for the quick reply and tips! That's my job for tomorrow, to sika the windows. I'll keep in mind what you say and hope the 90's go better today. Good tips! You have some good skill, especially to roll and tip such a large area on you other video!
Hello. However your totally wrong processing alcohol must not be used before giving kika 295 even for cleaning, spray aqua on sika 295 immediately start drying immediately makes the film not work. To do a clean job you need to tape the bodywork to the glass as well. It must be used to clean before giving sika 295 activator always de la sika cleans asuga fa del agrapante. Never follow the procedure from the video for your boat
Waste is the price you pay if you want to do your job once and almost perfect....if you make your nozzle small and you end up not putting enough sika..once you pass your profiling tool over it and not enough material then you will find out why 🤞.
Leon, you genius! I'm preparing to replace the windows on my sailboat and I learned a few things from this video that will save me from making stupid mistakes.
Leon, before you scrape with your profile tool, the first time you should spray the surface with the water. That will prevent the excess from getting on the window and the frame. it will still leave you with a perfect bead just like you finished, but you won’t have to wait and clean it up later.
thank you, my next video will be the one using this technique.
I don't want to think about the mess I made sealing one of my boat windows in and the amount of time I spent tidying it up afterwards. Just discovered that I need to do the other side now and watching you demonstrate how to do it will make the next one so much easier. Thanks.
i hope it help...good luck on your project
Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom on this technique!
Thank You So Much. I was a glazier 20 years ago and thought I'd mastered it back then, but without much practice over the past decade, and now re-kickstarting my shipwright career and having a lot of caulking, i find myself feeling so dumb trying to relearn something I'd thought I'd perfected already. Failing miserably😢 And then, you come along with exactly the key steps I forgot about and put me back in the game super strong and confident, looking good at work again. Thank you my man again, you are a Godsend and a Pro's Pro Choice, God Bless!
No worries mate...I'm glad that I had helped.
Thank you so much. I’m about to start a big job and am delighted to know there is a tool to smooth the sealant - what a struggle I would have had without knowing that!
You are welcome...good luck with your project.
Big thanks from Australia
Leon, Thanks so much for sharing! I was thinking soapy water was the product to get that nice tooled finish and you confirmed!
Great job too and a very cheerful good morning you gave us in your video. Thanks again and have a great day!
You are very welcome
Thank you! I am getting ready to seal the windows on my boat. I think I can do it myself after watching you. I also know people that are really good at their job make it look easy.
You're welcome mate..good luck on your project.
Watching from the USA. GREAT JOB!! Thank you.
Excellent instructions, thank you! I wish I could give more than just one thumbs up.
Thanks Leon. You make a tricky job look easy!
No worries 👍
Thanks man. I have applied a bunch of silicone beads with horrible results and this really helped. Wish me luck!
Muchas gracias Leon for giving so nicely and so kindly your time and your secrets ! From Belgium.
beautiful job mate
Thanks mate👍
Love it. Thank you. I want to apply this technique on a Rat Rod, to put in safety glass.
Am happy I found your video. You should see one of the windows I did, looks like a bomb of sikaflex exploded. Will clean it all of and do it again, but now (hopefully) like you did it. Am searching for the moulding kit, but haven't found it yet. Thanks so much for showing the correct way to do it.
Good luck on your project😊
Very nice!
Thank you..
great touch buddy, so helpful
Thanks mate..
Great job Leon. I have a Caravan that I'm removing the windows from and will have to reseal them all, I will use your technique.
Good luck! Rick...
good vid. tidy job...
Thanks, Great video! I replaced the old one following your suggestions.
Wish we saw this video three days go lol, but I think we made out ok for our first try. Thanks for the great video, we on the west coast of Canada need all the help we can get sometimes ....haha 😁
gday mate i have used sika marine on boats of mine before but didn't know about the white spirit cleaner for the final stage or leaving it till skinned so learnt something new today , i have to say you do a magnificent job .
Cool, thanks
Perfect job!!
Thanks mate...
Awesome video, thank you for all the great tips and tricks!!
My pleasure!
A master at work,maybe you can come round and do my caravan awning rail lol
This was super helpful thank you!
Thank you so much. I really apreciate your video 😍
You're welcome 😊
Thanks Leon great job!
Very welcome
Thank you very much for this video, it helped me a lot
Glad it helped
Buson leon the genius and humble man..
Thanks a lot 😊
Great video really helped me with my project cheers
Glad it helped
295UV is for acrylic applications. This is glass says me from a Canadian marine window company. His technique is spot on.
You can slap Sika 295 wherever possible 😉
Excellent ! Good guy who knowes.....
Thank you mate...
Thank you
You're welcome
Fantastic video! Helped me very much in Canada!
You are the SIKA lord!!!
Thanks. Nice job.
Thank you 👍
I wish I saw this video before I tried my project. I made a mess and it still leaked. I have to go back a use Leons technique. Nice work.
Good luck on you project...
@@leoncaputolan I shouldn't laugh Mike, but if I don't laugh I'll cry. I used to work on the tools and when ever it was time to caulk anything, baths etc I would get all the things out and run from my boss and hide. it's like the twilight zone when I caulk anything. I've rebuilt a vintage motor home and sure enough I did make a mess and yes my windows are leaking boo hoo. So thank you so much Leon, I learnt a lot from your video, very interesting about the bubbles and the sun I did not know that. So we're in covid lockdown here in Melbourne Australia, hopefully no one notices me outside doing my windows lol. It's urgent as water is getting in and having knee surgery in 5 days so won't be doing it then .
Thank you for the explanation, man !!!
You are welcome..
Great job!
Thanks..
Great video, thanks!
nice explanation ... great job ...thank's for it :-)
You are welcome!
Good work
Thank you sir..
Thanks buddy
No problem 👍
Brilliant job
Thank you ...
You should have sprayed the soap and water after you put your bead on. The caulking will stick to the dry glass and frame. When you scrape the Sika with the profile tool, the excess will not stick to the surrounding areas that are wet
Yahh you're right...but this one in particular is a no soap project...
@@leoncaputolan as long as it’s dry when you apply the caulking, you can spray whatever you want, water, spit, snot, cola, beer, wine… caulking won’t stick to wet, and will profile off with the tool.
Absolutely wrong. EVERY major quality sealant manufacturer in the USA says to dry tool.
As a professional caulker the use of soapy water voids the warranty. Anyone showing up to a quality professional caulking company’s jobsite with soapy water is typically fired on the spot.
Every quality major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with, if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest sealant manufacturers in the world) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Page 75 of Dow Construction Sealants Technical Manual.
Sika at one time had a proprietary tooling agent.
But they state in their Sikaflex general technical manual “ IMPORTANT NOTE: Tooling products such as solvents, detergents and other cleaners may cause tacky surfaces and accelerated aging”
Then there is this …….Limitations: “on transparent or translucent substrates ( like glass) the adhesion of the bond line will fail if exposed to UV”
He has zero knowledge of sealants.
From the same Sikaflex technical guidelines manual.
@@mckeem1080absolutely wrong. You are right the sealant won’t stick. But you are absolutely wrong to think it’s ok to use soapy water. Every major sealant manufacturer in the USA says to dry tool
They all say not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest sealant manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Page 75 of Dow Construction Sealants Technical Manual.
Sika used to have a proprietary tooling aide.
But in their Sikaflex general guidelines technical literature they say “ IMPORTANT NOTE: Tooling products such as solvents, detergents or other cleaners cause tacky surfaces and accelerated aging.”
Sika says similar things in various technical manuals.( they have many)
Anyone showing up with soapy water to a professional caulking company’s jobsite would most likely be fired on sight.
Thanks bub
Very impressive, it’s obvious you’re a pro!
Ik need to seal the glass windows on my boat, the edges will be covered with a chrome frame (small mahogany yacht from the sixties). I probably need to squeeze a bit along te edges and then clean it.
I was wondering, do I need 295UV or is there another sikaflex I should use instead?
You can't go wrong with the 295UV, it's a all rounder you can use for sealing and bonding with a lots of different materials...
What is in the spray bottle? And what does it do on your 3rd pass?
How would white sikaflex 295 u v hold up to moisture and mold .the boat is in Florida and it is pretty humid here I have been useing Boat Life Life Seal for years and thought how it would hold up . I am going to do a job on an 85 footers windows 2weeks from now and I am going to try your method on the 295 uv black hope it comes out as nice as yours.Thanks Capt Larry
So far after all this year's of using the Sika 295 UV..I never have any problem mold and moisture, few years back our boat have spend lots of time in the Caribbean and Florida...the 295 is very versatile product I have used is on most of my sealing job.
Thanks for the info it has been helpful.
Was that 295 uv white
@@larrywilliams5313 I have used white and black depending on where I need them
Legendary work mate.. i have a acrylic window above my helm station, it helps me see the sails..ive sealed it twice in 2 years and its started to leak again. Ive used sika 295 uv with the primer but dont beleive its tacky enough. Ive followed all the steps but the 295 doesnt seem to bond that well. The window sits in a 1" tray. Should i go for buytl tape in the tray and then use caulking top and bottom. And if so , what is your go to caulking?. Its a two day job and i want to get it right this time around.
Great channel, ive learned a lot.
TIA
i am not sure of what your project looks like, and to be honest with you i only used sika 295 on all my sealing job outside, is used it to seal our big bridge windows sometimes the bead is over an inch wide, they held well until now...maybe try sanding or give it a good scratching the area to be sika so the primer and the sika got something to hold on to, primer and sika doesn't bond well on a shiny surface ,and make sure you use a multi primer for the sika.
If I use half a tube how do I stop the other half from drying out?
You can seal the nozzle with tape as much as possible, but it will eventually hardened,it start from the tip of the nozzle and then to the main tube..when you use it again..take the old nozzle off and clean the cured Sika or put a new nozzle if you have extra lying around,and when you open it if the hardened Sika is already on the tube, you can try stab is it with screw driver or any pointy object and try reach the still soft part then you will be able to squeeze it out..
Would you use 209d primer? Its mandatory I read on the PMMA windows
Yes I use multi surface primer...but this particular project I did not use, reason 1..we did not digout completely the original seal which is still very good, so this sika is more of for aestistic, but mind you with primer or not this sika still sticks like shit in a blanket...
Reason 2....if you put primer on this type of project without using tape ..first you have to apply the primer on much smaller width than your intended sika bead width otherwise the excess primer will show and it will not look good...
So what do I do when they got it all over the gelcoat
Just clean it up with a white spirit or alcohol.
Is 295 ok for exterior glass window? the web sitesonly mention poly type windows
Been using 295 on all my exterior project for a long time,works for me I have some windows that is been done 10 years ago..still holds well.
Will 295 uv hold up as caulk on the boat seams.
Yes it will..
Very helpful Leon... Sika says to use an Aktivator like the Aktivator 205 before applying the 295UV. Do you ever do that??
yahh i do sometimes..but his time i did not do it...i usualy do it if i do the sika with tapes around the area.
Champ
what is the name of profile tool. any link to buy it?
you can get it on any big hardware store that sells all type of sealant, or any marine chandlery., they come on any brand with different look and color, shape...but they do the same job, they are very cheap.
@@leoncaputolan what is the name of it?
@@WinterTechIN theres a few names, grout scraper tool, profiling tool, plastic spatula...i will share here the link the one brand that we use onboard.. limasupply3.com/herramientasmaquinaria/maletines-kits-de-herramientas/kits-de-herramientas/joint-boy-kit-espatulas-plasticas-perfilar-4-un.html?srsltid=AR57-fD7lEQGQn3N0qgUTQusdnpITDsh_fN2SaNViwsF52yLJ1RN8dQEAOk
Salamat do! Hurot bilib nako nimo
hehehe salamat sa pag tan-aw pud
Any idea which SIKAflex model is good for glass and concrete attachment
295 UV is a multi purpose sealant and sticking things together ..im sure you can use them on all type of surfaces.
Boss pwede din ba ito sa automotive for seam sealer???
Pwede siguro,this product is very durable..dko pa na try, pag pwede sa yate I'm sure pwede din sa auto cguro.
Salamat...
Salamat...
Hello po sir. Ano po company or agency niyo po. Pangarap kopong makapag work sa yacht. Graduate po ako marine transportation. Salamat po
👍
Nice video, I wish you showed how to do the 90 degree bends in the windows. A sharp 90 corner, it looks like you have some in your windows. I think it will be hard to keep a steady flow around that type of corner, and if you stop sika doesn't stay smooth. Do you have a particular method for that? Thanks
Yahh you're right..I wish I had shown how to do the corner...my trick to do the corner is as soon as you hit the corner try keep your composure as steady as you can and make sure you don't have too much excess sika on your profiling tool when you arrive in the corner..do it as steady as you can and let the tip and shape of your profiling tool do the rest..good luck 😉..and if you make a mess of it...do it again, practice is the key😉😉
@@leoncaputolan Hi Leon, Thanks for the quick reply and tips! That's my job for tomorrow, to sika the windows. I'll keep in mind what you say and hope the 90's go better today. Good tips! You have some good skill, especially to roll and tip such a large area on you other video!
Put tape on your caulk ing are people saves the clean up after.... the soapier the water the smoother your lines will be
That's what I do most of the time ..this is just another way of doing it without putting a tape....
Boom, :)
Hello. However your totally wrong processing alcohol must not be used before giving kika 295 even for cleaning, spray aqua on sika 295 immediately start drying immediately makes the film not work. To do a clean job you need to tape the bodywork to the glass as well. It must be used to clean before giving sika 295 activator always de la sika cleans asuga fa del agrapante. Never follow the procedure from the video for your boat
could have made your nozzle cut half that size - you pushed alot of material out onto your profile tool - wasted
Waste is the price you pay if you want to do your job once and almost perfect....if you make your nozzle small and you end up not putting enough sika..once you pass your profiling tool over it and not enough material then you will find out why 🤞.