I Investigate Overheating Charge Ports on Ioniq 5/Ioniq 6/EV6/GV60
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2023
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yesterday the vehicle worked perfectly during myy 100 miles+ drive day.... the AC was fine.. no warning chimes, no dash lights!!
I think Hyundai sent a defective OTA, that drained the battery, set my dash warning lights on, & disabled my AC.. and then 3 days later ,sent another OTA that repaired the damaged caused by the 1st.. nothing else makes sense at this point
I think you are completely misunderstanding about the table. The cable will go up to 125C at 75A open air 25C ambient. In short, heating up 100C higher than ambient.
This is insane levels of detail here that you went to. My god man. Amazing. Even though I ended up going Tesla I still love watching your Ioniq vids. This is next level stuff here.
It was a lot of work so I appreciate hearing you still enjoy my vids. How are you enjoying your Tesla?
@@TheIoniqGuy man I was pretty sold on I5 or I6 but between the price drops and the insane charging network I went Tesla. It has far exceeded expectations so far. Took two roadtrips and were flawless in how easy charging was along the way. Now that Ioniq is getting access to Tesla network I may look into one for wife’s next car.
Woa, I recognize this guy!
Electric Drums and Electric Cars, my dude!
@@Alexzw92 hahahahahah!!!
@@TheIoniqGuyVery thorough testing indeed but probably also what’s required if you want to draw any meaningful conclusions.
Almost too bad that you ‘fixed’ the charging port.
Excellent work!
It's hard to see, but FYI your AC pins are bent slightly. This can cause a bad connection. The first 1/3 of the pin is straight (part that's held rigid in the socket), but the outer 2/3 is bent starting right where the pin support ends. It's possible that pulling them out of the socket straightened them up enough to start working again. I encourage others with the issue to check for bent pins, you can use a Q-tip in the socket as a gauge. If the Q tip fits easier on one side of the AC pin vs. the other, the pin is bent.
This has got to be one of the most valuable videos you've put together on this vehicle platform generally and this L2 charge temperature issue specifically. Well done and thanks for doing it!
I love reading your reports, news and anticipations about upcoming SW updates. I spent countless days myself with the infamous 12V battery last year, posting and exchanging findings and ideas with other passionate Ioniq 5 owners on the Ioniq5 forum. I tried to exchange information with Hyundai tech centers, unsuccessfully. But you are at a different level, and this in-depth analysis of the charging overheating issue is a true masterpiece. I know you already get the ears of Hyundai, and at this point I think they should give you the golden keys to their test labs in appreciation.
As an engineer, reading about your well-reasoned approach to hypothesizing and verifying your intuitions is music to my ears ... Great job, kudos to you!
I've inquired with them about getting some face time with the engineers that are overseeing their internal investigation/testing but it's only fallen on deaf ears. Considering my name and video is mentioned directly in the class action lawsuit I feel that they may be distancing themselves from me until it's dealt with.
Heavy appreciation for the testing 👏🏻 both Ioniq 5's I have owned would derate after about 30min of charging. Most people would just complain to their dealership and expect them to diagnose and resolve the issue. I'm so glad you went out of your way to manuall collect the data and get down to the bottom of this issue. Its even more admirable that you were willing to share this information rather than keep it for yourself! Love the channel, but this is the most informative video yet. Now I'm going to see if I can fix my charge port as well!
The Dealership should be able to fix this. They have all the same tools he does. If you brought them an ICE with a blown head gasket they would be able to fix it and not just say, this always happens, just drive it.
I truly hope that no one at Hyundai tries to void your warranty after all this great work! If reassembling this charge port fixes the issue, there is hope for a TSB from Hyundai that could be a better fix. Fingers crossed
@@JohnCap523 maybe it would be nuts for you to do it. He obviously knows what he's doing.
considering it's their engineering and their issue. When manufacturers fail to acknowledge and fix known issues (see Subaru), it is up to the owner/consumer to take matters into their own hands to do something the manufacturer wouldn't do. To advertise a capability and then fail to deliver on said capability can go south fast. So, let's hope Hy/KI can remedy the situation brought to light by this guy...
@@JohnCap523 Actually he has highlighted a possible assembly issue, be interesting to see if anybody at hyundai try what he has done,
Dude!
Thanks for taking one for the community. And thanks for all your hard work.
I was having this issue, used a swab with rubbing alcohol to clean the pins in the car and charging handle, haven't had the issue since. There was a lot of grime I cleaned off on the swab. I haven't had the issue since. It started about a year after I got the car, which seems similar to other peoples issues.
When you run power you need a solid connection. Else you can develop a resistance which causes heat.
Good point. I will try this.
this is awesome i'm glad theres brave folks like you out there experimenting to figure out what's happening with the charge ports
Holy moly that was so much attention to detail and work involved. Thank you so much for the effort involved!!! Hopefully this helps Hyundai and other people try to figure out this issue. Maybe there is more care involved with these charging ports than told.
Awesome investigation. I've been experiences charging issues on a level 2 ESVE since i bought the car in December. It still overheats at 11kW after the software update. Only thing that works is dropping it down to 5kW.
Thanks for being there for us, great job.
This is one of the best videos I have seen in a long time. You did a great job!
Excellent stuff, thanks for all the attention to detail and going through the hard yards so we don't have to!
Great hands-on research, well done! It looks like there could be a manufacturing issue whereby some ports are built badly and have much higher resistance. This would also explain why not everyone experiences this issue. So maybe what is needed is a recall of charge ports, to check, fix or replace them…
I'm impressed with the effort you put into trying to figure this out!
Appreciate the level of testing that you are doing on this.
Thank you for all of the thorough information. I do not understand most of this but I may take your video with me next week when I bring my car in to get serviced.
Thanks for all of your work! My problem with de-rating started only after having the ICCU update on August 9th. Fortunately, I changed the charge rate in the EV menu of the car from 100% (full 48 Amps/11.4kW) to either 60% (27.7 Amps/6.74kW) or even 90% (42.2 Amps/10.36 kW). I was able to charge at 10.3-10.36 kW for over 3 hours without de-rating at 42.2 Amps/10.3 ish kW at this 90% of max charge rate.
Seriously great investigation! I’m really impressed. This is hugely valuable. Data. Using scientific methods. No bull crap PR speak or dealers trying to minimize or disregard the issue.
Excellent work!
Very well done! I appreciate the efforts you've made to give valuable knowledge to us interested in hyundai's cars. You've earned my subscription ;)
To truly fix this, there needs to be a hardware change/fix… thanks for your hard work Corbin..
Thank you for taking the time and having the bravery to do this. My 2022 EV6 GT-Line AWD has been having this issue after about 8 months of ownership. Trying to find a dealer out here in Southern California with a 48amp charger has not gone well, and thus can’t replicate the problem at the dealerships. KIA corporate just redirects you back to a dealer so they can test and submit. None of the updates so far have resolved this issue and I’m am forced to throttle down to 90% so the charge doesn’t intermittently start/stop every 3 minutes after about the first 50 minutes of charging. I will try scrubbing the contacts with some alcohol and see if that helps though…. Till your next video~cheers!
Wowza… you certainly put in the time, effort, and experimentation to try and identify the definitive problem. I only wish you'd found it! I just hope that the new Ioniq 5s coming off the line no longer have this issue, as I was hoping to replace my Tesla with one.
That a lot of work and very well done!! Thank you. Valuable information!
Thanks so much for doing this, great content. I feel a lot better about my IONiQ5 now.
Good work on this investigation.
I cannot tell you how often just adding instrumentation has solved my problem.
I think your assessment of the seating of the pins is sound.
wow thank you for all the hard work i have been waiting for this video to see what you found, as my MY23 Niro in the UK is over heating on single phase 32A 230v charging after 10 months of ownership. took it to dealer they could not get it to overheat ( i now know why) but did the software update to reduced the power ( to just over 3kW) once temp reached 105C. this is what i have found charging on 3 phase 22kW (11kW charge speed) public charger using supplied cable with car did not overheat only got to 31C after an hour same with dealer using the same cable , so used the cars supplied cable on a 7kW single phase public charger, noticed there was a big difference in temperature rise compared to at home it rose from 22 to 50C in 16 minutes, using suppled cable with the car and it took 4 minutes to rise the same amount at home charger ( which is tethered cable & plug). the car is supplied with a Mennnekes cable and there is a big difference in contacts design (4 beefy taps ) used compared to the home charger multiple fine like strands/strips . my conclusion is the home plug contacts has lost there tension and as a result the contact resistance has gone up resulting in a rapid rise in temperature. home charger manufacturer didn't even dispute it and is going to replace the plug and cable, which made me think this may be a known issue.
Just came here to say: I solved an overheating problem for my I5 - I cleaned my J1772 pins with Q-Tips (one per pin) and 90% isopropyl alcohol based on a tip I read on Reddit (the Redditor suggested cleaning them like you're brushing teeth) - please try at your own risk - but it worked perfectly for me. My I5 had started having this problem two days ago in Yosemite at a destination charger in the park. Shutting down after only 30 minutes or so, and it kept happening even after I got home. And I typically have it dialed down to 90% (36 amps) which is plenty fast for my purposes - but cleaning the pins worked! The thing charged overnight to 80% with no problems, no slowdown, nothing. It just worked.
This was a very interesting case study. I would love to see people who are having this issue much worse look at their connections. Take pictures of every step as they disassemble. Reassemble, with pictures, and see if it helps.
Superb analysis of the problem; incredibly valuable to someone like me who is considering the purchase of an I6.
Much appreciated man. I’ve learned more from you than the “look the other way” answers I get from H on this matter. The recommended upgrades to the Ioniq 5 are a plus! Thanks
Wow. Talk about going above and beyond. Well done.
This is heroic effort! Just wow... thank you.
Good job explaining a complex issue. I'm waiting for more.
This was fantastic. Well done on the investigation.
What’s more interesting is the fact you took all this apart. It makes me wonder if we can actually upgrade the charging port to the NAC port once it comes out. Even if it has to be done by the dealer.
I have it on good authority that internally at Hyundai, there’s a discussion about offering NACS upgrades
I don't think it's feasible. NACS has DC pins sharing with AC. There needs a disconnector on the charger side to prevent high voltage DC damaging the AC charger. At least Tesla has it.
Correct, it wouldn’t be as simple as just a replacement cable to the BMS. An adapter is definitely going to be the best option in terms of cost effectiveness
@@TheIoniqGuy Good to hear!
It would be so much simpler for you US people if you had 3 phase power and CCS2. In Australia, where I am, both the Ioniq 5/6 and Teslas and all the DC chargers, Tesla and non-Tesla, have CCS2. @@TheIoniqGuy
This is an excellent analysis, thank you for the details. Your issue seeming to be fixed, and the information from Hyundai about the thermistor, makes me wonder if you having boiled the thermistor to over 210F had some sort of calibration/corrective effect. I don't see how that would fix the issue, but I also don't see what else, other than reseating the pins, could have corrected your car. Very strange, but I am happy to see yours is fixed.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR WORK AND POSTS..
Really excellent work, many thanks.
Excellent investigation. I think in your case it was wiring but obviously some are also having the issue with the thermistor so good helpful info. Hopefully helps people get this fixed
Amazing work!
Terrific effort on this video (perhaps your most useful ever), Corbin, thanks so much for doing this research! I only wish Hyundai would do as much. I'm with you on your working theory about pin contact based on your results. I hope you will continue to charge at 48A and see what develops over the next few months in terms of the pins perhaps working loose again. Our own 22 SEL charged fine at 40A for about six weeks and then failed after that, which would also not be inconsistent with a badly made charge port connector in the car that starts to wiggle its components apart beyond acceptable tolerance after a certain period of usage. It's clearly possible to build a charge port that does not fall apart or is otherwise defective as no other major EV manufacturer seems to have this problem. Why can't Hyundai buy their charge port from the same suppliers if they can't manage to build an acceptable one themselves?
Your videos have been the single most useful tool for my car-buying experience. Sadly, I don't think I'll purchase an Ioniq now due to the pervasive charging problems. I'll be on the lookout for further videos from you about the 2025 model. Thanks for your smart and relevant content!!
Great job on doing all the detailed debugging, isolating things one at a time. It may come down to poor assembly at the factory or possibly poor final QA but I hope Hyundai gets this fixed. Cheers.
Thank goodness for people like you. I was at the dealership a couple of weeks ago and I brought this up and the service department acted as if they had never heard anything about any charging issues ever with any product. 😂😂 I stopped short of asking them if they had been living under a rock for the last six months. At least be nice if Hyundai put out a bulletin to all of the dealerships and told them to at least acknowledge that their customers were not crazy and to tell them that they were working on a fix and to sit tight. I mean if I were Hyundai I would just try to manage this and nip it in the bud and say “hey yes we know it’s a problem and we’re not sure how we are going to fix it but trust us we are because we love you and we love our cars and we want you to keep buying them.”
EV6 운행중인데...같은 증상으로 소프트웨어 업그레이드로 과열시 충전속도 저하로 해결했는데..좋은 정보감사합니다.
This is GOLD.
Great video Corbin!
My guess would be moving the thermistor around fixed a bad connection, so it may be a temporary fix. I've replaced many thermistors on different types of equipment, if they have a bad crimp or an issue with the tiny wires inside they give bad readings. Did you ever feel the plug when a charging session was reading 220F? If it was really getting over 100C the entire plug would be warm and the area around the pins would give you a bad burn. If it was not that hot then the thermistor was reading high.
Don’t touch anything over 50 deg C ,,,it will burn you. Measure the temperature with a laser thermometer instead ;)
Thank you so much. This is a great video and your explanations and thought process are excellent.
Thank you for making the discussion about the size of the wires in the car vs. rating for wires in household wiring. Household wiring is rated more to maintain a certain voltage drop rather than being able to carry the current. It's always interesting to look at the wires on the back side of, say, an electrical oven plug. The wires inside the appliance are generally tiny compared to the big fat wires in the main cord, but the manufacturer knows *exactly* how long they are and what's around them and such.
As an experimental physicist, I very much approve of your methodology here. You do an excellent job of laying out your methods and measurements, and then reporting your data. I have two suggestions, though. 1) In the early part of the video, you talk about ratings of wires in terms of degrees C (which is reasonable; that's how those specs are usually quoted). Later in the video, all of your temperature measurements are (I think) in degrees F, which is also fine, but I don't think you made a point of highlighting that you were switching scales. 2) In your graphs of temperature over time, don't have have a unit listed ANYWHERE. I presume the temperatures are in degrees F and the time is in minutes, but they're not labelled.
I don't have an EV, but I have some thoughts about the whole charging port thing, and I would like to have a private conversation about that with you. How to best contact you? I see you have a facebook page, is direct messaging on facebook a reasonable way to chat with you?
Correct, any temperature not related to a cable rating is in degrees F. You can email me at theioniqguy@gmail.com
My ChargePoint Home Flex charger was set to 48 amps and our IONIQ 5 charge process always stopped after about 45 minutes. I had ChargePoint lower my setting to 40 amps and I have had no trouble since.
Well done! Thank you.
I hardwired my own 30A Flo G5 evse as I found a great deal on one and only had a 40A breaker to work with anyway; I was worried I'd have to trouble-shoot both the EV6 and my DIY wiring job, luckily everything has worked out fine so far charging at a solid 7kW. I often charge at work on a Tesla destination charger at 9.6KW using the A2Z adapter and haven't had any issues there either. Fingers crossed it isn't an issue that crops up down the line as I've only had the car for 3mo.
Thanks for going the extra mile in you deep dive analysis!
I really appreciate it!
@@TheIoniqGuy No prob! My 2021 Model Y can only charge at a max 32A (AC) and it has never had a de-rating or heating issue, as far as I know. Pin fitment / electrical connectors are crucially important.
Thanks for the great analysis.
I am just starting to experience this same charging issue. I have an Ioniq5 purchased in Aug 2022. I did not have the issue until i got the latest update on Oct 4 2023. Since then my level 2 charger keeps stopping. It tries to restart but in 12 hours i only get about 30kwh of charge. I used to get 50 kwh of charge in 2 hours. I plan to show your video to my Hyundai Service guy when i bring my car in tomorrow
Great video and I appreciate the great effort you put into looking for the cause of the issue. I'm a little concerned about ppl running 48 amps continuously for several hours anyway, in their house. Well, the good news is hopefully, the evse is pretty close to the main panel.
I run mine at 32A and have the car limit the current down to 60%, because for me, time is not an issue. Also, since I use solar panels, the draw from the evse in combination with the house is always less than the output of the solar panels.
What’s your concern with 48A? If installed properly with correct gauge wire it would be no issue.
Thanks for this post. One of your best. 😊. I'm curious what your hyundai contact has said about your discovery? I've had to reduce my 40A 'charger' down to 20A to ensure it doesn't quit mid-way. 🙄. I'm also curious if the latest TSB to reduce the i/p current is an effective bandaid cure? My dealer says they do NOT have that software update to offer. Have others heard this excuse too? TIA. G
Thanks for the awesome video. I have a GV60 Performance and recently can’t go above 35amps before the auto shutoff kicks in. I will attempt to recreate what you did in a last ditch effort to prevent the problem from getting worse. Did you shut off the main power first or is it not necessary? Thanks!
The poll I did in your Facebook group asked whether people who only charged at 32amps or below EVER experienced the overheating problem, and ZERO people said yes. It points to charging at 40 and especially 48 or 50 amps can cause some sort of degradation which eventually leads it to fail at ever lower speeds. I HIGHLY recommend anyone who doesn't want this to happen never charge at even 40 amps. I'm currently charging at 36 and hopefully will never see this issue: we'll see.
I have the issue at 32A...
@@korvics But did you ALWAYS charge at 32 amps or did you start at 48 or 40?
@@mitsu.hadeishi I had issues with 40A overheating almost right away. So I've been charging at 32A since then. My overheating issues have progressively gone worse. I do think that whatever the issue is - something deteriorates with use, but I am not sure it's caused by charging at >32A.
A friend of mine is now having this issue charging at 32A and has not charged at more than 32A because that is the maximum for charging single phase with a type 2 socket in Australia (11kW is possible but only with 3 phase/16A on each phase).
I went with a Tesla model S but I still love the Ioniq guy and will always watch your videos!!
I’m about 99% sure now that the issue is the pins aren’t making good contact. They are either too small and/or too soft and wear down with time. When you reinstalled the pins, they probably rotated a little bit allowing for the EVSE cable to bite new metal resulting in better contact and temps. You’ll probably see the issue again eventually if you keep using the same EVSE cable.
You may want to check with your contact to see if they are to be assembling the pin with the thermal coupler with heat sink compound to more faithfully read to true pin temperature. If you go back in for any reason caliper the pins them selves. They should be in specification but is worth a validation. 17:09
Great job
I did not have a charge port issue
But I am still dealing with the 12 volt battery dying
The dealer tells me it’s the VCU module that is not going into sleep mode
So fingers cross that a new module solves this issue
Amazing effort. Sorry you didn't get a cleaner result, but it does show that the port is the issue.
Better info than the 2 dealers I took it to. The pin placement would make sense on it randomly starting. I know for me personally it was fine for 6 months and now overheats on every charge.
Dealers are useless!!
As much as I LOVE the IONIQ5, I am glad I returned my vehicle hearing that people are having additional problems with charging them. The fact re-seating the connections inside the charging port solved your issue is something I would also try if I had the same issue. Infact letting Hyundai know what you did and how it is now working is critical for additional testing on other vehicles. If this simple procedure can solve this problem. that is great. It could be as simple as a seating issue of the temperature connection sensor. It makes sense if the sensor is not able to work for it to drop power is a precautionary measure to prevent damage to the vehicle. I can't wait for a day where Hyundai can get these issues resolved, I want to buy an IONIQ 5 once things with this technology gets better.
Seems like it could be assembly issues, I as you know had a 2023 Ioniq 5, that from brand new did not Fast DC charge, end of day it was a bent pin on a connector that caused the issue. So likely your removal and reassembly of the pins on the charge port was the solution to likly poor assembly or possitioning of the socket pins.
Did they ever check the interference fit between the pin connection of the socket port? I would check my Ioniq 5, but I don't have the car anymore. I worked at Schneider Electric (Power Meters), and that used to be one big issue, high voltage loose fitting connection.
Static charge can discharge through a temperature sensor so static in general can cause an noise in the thermistor information. Maybe when you touched the thing or when you put the thermistor in liquid it removed built up static? with all the different materials like carpet, rubber and plastics in that area with high voltage i could see some static building up.
wow, great video!
Good work
Excellent video and analysis. I have to assume that the charge session would only stop or de-rate if the car (or EVSE) is aware of a heating issue which means one of the temp sensing thermistors is getting too hot. Poor thermistor placement or lack of good thermal contact could only reduce the ability of the thermistor to track hot cables or connectors, not increase sensitivity.
Its the cable from the port to the battery... I know directly from Hyundai. Plus the temperature is MUCH colder now in October which I never had issues on my Hyundai.
Can you do a video tutorial on how to take apart the charge port? Or do you know if there already is one?
Thank you for taking the time to research and do these videos it is extremely helpful!
In "free-air" BARE wire can carry much more currant than can the same wire in a closed conduit / tight bundle. ''AMPACITY OF WIRES VARY WITH ITS INSALATION'' {AMERICAN ELECTRICAL CODE} "Voltage Drop"= 'Vd2Kil over CM"" EV cars have on-board chargers that need protection from too high an amperage applied while charging. Home wiring and plug devices' can be a heat sourse and must be fused against for protection of fire.
Engineering of many factors hopefully come with few compromise. =we ask computers to make our choices of control=
*fine copper wire found in weilding cable carry vary high rates of currant !!
Thank you for working on all of our short commings of our Ev's....
Very comprehensive. A couple of comments - if there is a quality issue with the wiring of the thermistor the BMS may be getting false readings - the resistance of any poor contact adds the the value of resistance the BMS sees which will be interpreted as a higher temperature. Secondly (and this should be obvious but, hey, whatever) - you cannot simply say that a given wire thickness can carry a set current - it will depend on how easily the wire cools the self-generated heat. I know from setting up my own EVSE that cable ratings will be different between (for example) wire clipped to a wall vs. wire buried in wall insulation.
Great investigation. Sounds like a resistive pin connection due to partial engagement. However, if this temperature sensing doesn’t work right what happens?
Awesome work, I think you're the local Tesla Bjørn if you've watched the road tests. Are the graphs from the phone apps?
Please get an infrared camera to check high power connections, esp if you are an electrician. IR cameras can see through plastic and many other materials. A good camera can show where the poor contact is, without having to disassemble the cables. Been using for 2 decades in 100 to 1000A circuits.
Great detail. Will you be forwarding this info Mitsubishi?
Pin connectors are notorious for backing out of place after so many insertions. I have seen this many times in industry.
Check the pin seating in both ends of the cable.
Also, bad connections always heat up over time.
If you are having this problem at home, image what you will get at a public charger that is used and abused everyday! Good Luck. 😂
ok cool so just take apart my charging port and boom my issue is solved lol - mine isn’t even de-rating after all the updates. it just goes down from 11kw to 0 and sometimes jumps back up to 11kw for a bit and then eventually just stops. ugh. but yo this was some really dope and informative content that really solidifies you as… THE IONIQ GUY
Fortunately, my new Ioniq 6 charged yesterday at steady 9.6kW for 4 hours yesterday. Granted the garage was only about 65°. Using at home ChargePoint.
Is there a way to check to see if we have the ICCU update you mentioned?
Those temperatures are still really high even though the connectors and wires are rated for it. There should be active cooling around the port or a better way to keep the charge port below 140F/ 60C maybe with thicker connectors?
I charge at 40a. Never had overheating issues until I did the ICCU recall. Now it overheats 100% of the time unless I throttle to 90%. It doesn’t matter if it is hot or cold outside it will overheat when charging at 40a.
I got through the hottest days of summer without overheating even once. I’ve seen a couple people on Reddit explain the same issue. So the ICCU update tip at the end of your video may or may not be helpful.
Maybe my I6's charge port was assembled correctly. It ranged between 175-185 F before the ICCU recall and seems to be around 165 F afterwards. It has never reduced or stopped charging at 48 AMPS on the AC EVSE.
Where did the temperature graph come from? Is that in the carscanner app?
I never had this issue on my project 45 version.
Even not heard off.
Mostly I charge with 5 to 8KW (3 fase) or 4 kw (1 fase).
But even when charging at 11KW (3*16 amps) never an issue (until now)
I admit that my car was delivered in Euriope...230-240 volts standard. 11KW is slightly less as 3* 16Amps
Did you clean the pins before reassembly? Are they keyed or would it have been possible they were rotated at all when putting it back together? I suspect it’s all just contact resistance and if you cleaned the pins and adjusted the wear pattern it’s possible it’s “factory fresh” again. I just finished my own testing with cleaning the pins and it’s definitely made a difference (will post results in Reddit thread).
I think what they are saying about temp sensor communication is BS. The sensor obviously works well and it either reads or it doesn't, its just a thermistor. I am currently working as a tech now at a Hyundai dealer and I have one of these to diagnose next week. He has the same problem you are describing and has also done all the software updates. I believe the root cause of the problem lies in the charging port itself with the connection of the pins. A thermal imaging camera would also be a good tool to diagnose this, you can wait for it to overheat, then pull the charger plug out right away and see if any one of the pins are hotter than the others with the camera. Imo they are just trying to buy time with the software update and the real fix will end up being a recall for an updated charging port. I will keep you in the loop if my diagnosis reveals anything definitive or if I hear anything from higher up :)
I looked at the car. It just ended up needing vcu and iccu update. What I'm surprised about is that hyundai never sent him a recall letter or mentioned anything to this customer about the software update. Anyways, this is just the band-aid fix for now. Time will tell now if he returns again for the same issue, but this is the only official fix we have for the time being. I really have a hunch that hyundai will put out a recall to install an updated charging port.
I know this is semi Unrelated to the overheating but could you do a short showing how to replace the charge port caps? Is it as simple as taking the new cap and pressing them into the port? Don't want to stick my finger in the electric socket again, thanks in advance!
It's possible that poor electrical contact is made when mating the charging cable to the vehicle's charging port. Resistance in that interface will cause heat. Too much resistance = too much heat.
I like your testing methods using thermocouples to monitor temperatures but what would be interesting is to measure the AC voltage drop across each male/female contact pair during charging. That way, you can calculate the actual power dissipation in each contact interface. You would also be able to easily measure the voltage drop while manipulating the charging cable to see if the voltage drop changes rather than waiting for temperature changes.
Your issue may have been caused by surface corrosion/contamination on the mating contacts themselves. You likely cleaned the contacts during your extensive testing. Cleaning the contacts with IPA or even Deoxit may help.
I have an Autel Maxicharger that I use with my 2023 Kia Niro EV. The plug remains remarkably cool while charging at 40A/240V. My Kia OEM L1 charging connector (set to 8A current limit) actually gets warmer to the touch than the Autel L2 charge connector at 40A so I'm fairly confident that charging connector mating quality varies with each type of charger. This is also why I never charge at public chargers. Who knows how worn/mistreated/dirty those charge connectors are.
Thanks for your awesome experiments.
Just opening it all up and getting airflow could be why it failed less.
Btw, your videos make me miss my ioniq 5 Sooooo much. Waiting for a us made 2025 though
I’ve never had any issues with my EV6 overheating since I got my ChargePoint Home Flex charger.
Any chance that Hyundai will do an update/recall that is NOT a software fix? If it's positional, I'd like them to reseat my cables and charge port.
I was going to speculate that the trunk liner was insulating the heat inside the wiring cavity, but your continued success with 48A tells me that isn't the problem.
I do think the thermistor arrangement is hokey. The fit between it and the adjacent pin is critical, and slight differences in that fit could lead to large differences in how the thermistor responds.
Hyundai obviously didn't characterize this well.
A more accurate thermistor reading would occur if it was bonded to the pin with epoxy, for example.
Thanks for doing all this work!
That’s what I was thinking myself