I am really very impressed with this amplifier, yesterday I ran it off a 13.2v and 3.6amps battery pack and it kicks the stuffings out of a set of 200watt 4ohm speakers. I never expected an amp to be THIS GOOD!!!
Thank you for explaining the switches/jumpers. Their purpose has been bugging me for months and explains why so may users are complaining about white noise when I'm getting none (with switches set to off/off).
Balaźs, just wanted to say thanks for the tip about removing the 0ohm resistors. I took your advice to remove them and that took care of the noise and over driving the amp to the point of it shutting down. Keep up the great work!
For the connection voice, hey, at least they aren't trying to bullshit you into not thinking it's a Chinese device. The broken English is kinda charming tbh.
Does anyone know if the push button switches for the volume up and volume down can be desoldered and replaced with one rocker switch to control both? Same thing for the Next and Back?
That's a tricky question. I don't know where those feet are. I might have received the amp with those installed. But you might want to search for "nylon pcb spacer"
I have this board and it's pretty good but whenever there is a quiet part in the audio track the sound drops out for a short moment and small parts of the audio gets cropped off. I there a remedy??
Thanks for the hands-on demo showing how to manipulate the switches. But when doing speaker test please place them in proper size boxes with sound deadening material and dance box construction it would make them sound so much better enhance the base and clear up the mid in trouble ranges. Plane open speakers really degrades the sound
You are perfectly right, in that open speakers sound terrible. However the purpose of this test was to get an idea about background noise and loudness. Anyway, it would be a very stupid idea to demonstrate sound quality over youtube. I also prefer to build speakers into boxes: ua-cam.com/video/X5H1B4K88ag/v-deo.htmlm42s
Sir, when you use this board with 15w or 220w speaker, the sound tears when there is any bass in the sound track. Can you help me with that. It happens only in the last 2 points of the volume on the higher side.
I would like to use an amp that is similar to this with a single speaker...could someone explain the best way to do this, other than hooking the speaker up to either the left or right side?
I'm not completely sure on this, but theoretically you can connect the matching speaker-leads of the two sides on the output. This way you get the double power of the amplifier. (Meaning: you can use one bigger speaker.)
I guess crossovers (or set of capacitors and resistors) are required to get a clear sound - that should filter out unrequired freqs for twitters and bass speakers. For 18650 - use BMS balancers and DC-DC converter for charging them and maybe another one for powering AMP with higher voltage.
The reason for it not giving rated power it's likely to be that you are underpowering it, specs for that chip states that VCC supply range is 8-28 volts, and rated power curves are at 20volt , so...
try with a power supply that can put 20 or 24 volts to it and the same load, also drive both loads at the same time and maque sure input level is suficiently high, then meassure the current again.
The bluetooth module is powered from the 7536 3.6V voltage regulator near the switches. But there is no sense to power off the bluetooth module, as it handles the auxiliary input as well.
hey I have a problem here, I have a stereo tv speaker that uses rca connector, I want to use it with my set top box, but there is a slight delay between tha rca n hdmi from the set top box, I also dont want to use rca video out for my tv bcs the quality is terrible, so can u give me some tips how can I use the speaker?
Generally say RCA connector can have a good quality, so quality degradation in not because of the connector type itself. On the other hand, when you are about to use HDMI to pass video, you need you use HDMI to pass audio as-well (to avoid delay :) ). You need to use exported audio from your screen, but I see, this is not an option for you, I assume you are using PC screen. If your screen can accept VGA, you might find a HDMI-to-VGA adapter useful, a one that provides audio output.
I got the 2*50W red one. For months there were no problems, now I've noticed that loudness dropped. Those gain jumpers (on or off) became sensitive to the touch. If touched lightly with fingertip or tip of a screwdriver the music is notably louder, as it was before. How to fix or stabilize gain jumpers without removing them?
If it is not a loose solder joint, than there is no way you fix a broken switch in this size. It should be removed. You can either replace it with a kid of same one (I would give you the switch from mine, as I don't need it any more. :) ), or - if you know what gain level you always use - solder in jumper wires to connect the leads.
There are, the TDA7492 is 2x50W, the P version is 2x25W www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/f4/3e/da/a3/97/e7/4f/8d/CD00205863.pdf/files/CD00205863.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00205863.pdf
Balázs Kelemen i have nearly the same problem , when i power on the amp, the blue bluetooth indicator led light up for a short second but after that the whole board is dead , no aux and no bluetooth connection avaible , do you know any solution ?
We are talking about the red one. Both bluetooth and AUX inputs are biased through the BT chip. So, it is okay that none works and you do not find any BT device near by: This means, that the BT chip is not functional. It might be just a loose solder joint, or a complete defect. You can check this by measuring 3.3 Volts between the GND and VBAT legs of the BTM835 board. (Search images for BTM835). On the other way round, if you apply 3.3V between GND and VBAT, the BT module should come alive, and visible for BT devices. This way you can sort out whether the BT module or the amplifier board is dead. Either ways you might not do anything to fix it except for checking loose solder joints.
Hi, I would like to know if the AUX can be used as output to the bluetooth audio signal coming in. For example, could it be use as spectrum analyser display via the AUX while playing music on the speakers?
Question : First few times worked well. Now the 7536-1 voltage regulator heats up so much that you can barely touch it. And stops the amp ,resets it. Can i do something with it or just throw it away? Or why does it do that?
This is definitely something, that is sounds interesting enough to inspect. However the 7536 voltage regulator (as it provides 3.6V) is likely to produce voltage to the bluetooth module, thus the bluetooth module might be damaged. If the bluetooth module just works well, I suspect that the 7536-1 is broken. You might try to remove it, and provide the 3.6V from a benchtop power supply as a test. (I'm not sure that worth the effort tho. :) )
Balázs Kelemen I will just remove it from the pcb and replace it with a more " manly " one :D. I will let u know how it went when this happens. Thanks for the reply.
In short: No. In detailed: The BT module has a microcontroller, that has been pre-programmed by the manufacturer. All the beeps, key actions and whatnot is the part of the program. In theory it is possible to reprogram it with the appropriate device. But it is so badly documented, that noone will came across to provide a toolset for the community.
Balázs Kelemen please tell me if i can addjust the beeps volume at the startup on the old BT 120w blue board as it goes on the full volume at the beggining. thanks
You cannot adjust the volume of this amplifier expect for the two gain switches. But there might be ways to reduce the volume. E.g. the 21th pin of the amplifier chip does a mute. (You can pull that pin with some 4K resistor to GND to apply mute.)
if you had to buy a cheap but good ( tested ) little DIY bluetooth amplifier board, (maybe with rotating buton for volume, but it's not a must ) what would it be ? I would like to buy one so I can make a ~50w speaker portable. Thanks in advance !
I am considering buying the TDA4792P Bluetooth board. I have a 4 ohm speaker that has an RMS of 30Watts and Peak Power Handling of 60Watts so should I buy the 2x50W version or the 2x25W version as it says 'best at 8 ohms'. Does that mean it will be 2x100W at 4 ohms? Please help. It would be appreciated. : )
i would like to know the specification of D5 on the tda 7492p board which is above the bluetooth antena or a clear photo where i can zoom it out is there anyone who can help?......................
I think the Bluetooth on the board is what make the sound sucks. But if you can remove the Bluetooth from the board and the push all the gain. You will have a very powerful bass and clear sound from this small amplifier board.
The problem is, it's the bluetooth module that handles the auxiliary input, so removing it would mean no more sound... That's surely clear as hell, bit also silent
The TDA7492 IC only gives 50+50w RMS THD10% when it's connected with 25VCC and the speakers have 6 ohms of impedance. When you buy an amplifier or an Amp IC, you should research the IC's datasheet.
Hi, I just bought the new blue amp and I'm finding sync issues. The sound follows the video by a small time, enough to be annoying. Have you got any idea of a fix?
Thomas, have you been checking your different BT amp modules with the same pair of speakers? Or different speakers? Random crackling or popping is normally from bad contacts either at terminals, or inside the speaker. You may need a new speaker
I had the same problem and figured it out: this amp needs at least 13.2volts and 3.6 amps power to function properly, lower than that you will have "farting" or crackling noises from the speakers. I hacked three 4.5volt 1200mah cellphone power banks for their batteries and connected them in series, www.zbattery.com/Connecting-Batteries-in-Series-or-Parallel, to get the power I needed for mine. However please be careful when you crack these powerbanks open for the batteries, if you short the batteries out they WILL explode!!!
Hello. I recently bought one of this amps, but when i plug a laptop charger to it (its a 19v 4A) already connected to AC, the amp gives a lot of sparks o.O Do you know whats the problem? Also i tried to measure the amperage of the amp in use but it simply got sparks in the multimeter terminals... is something wrong there?
Small sparks on the contacts are not always means that there is a problem. Best would be to try with a benchtop power supply, where you can maximize the current draw. There might be a short on the circuit. Make sure that you connect the power with the right polarity.
Balázs Kelemen Well, the polarity is probably correct since all dc jacks are usually comun center positive... There can be some short, since i never seen so many sparks in a dc jack
Very interesting video. I am waiting for the old version of this board and I have gathered all my components, but now I think I might need to change the board or get some kind of amplifier. What board would you recoomend? I am using a pair of old X-Plod car speakers similar to the large speakers you use in this test.
There are several revisions/versions of that board, all requiring a separate amplifier board. If you want a board with an integrated power amp you can have a look at this: store3.sure-electronics.com/aa-ja32171-1763
I am about to build my own portable bluetooth speaker and might need some help. I have got 1 speaker cabinet (with speakers) [Poineer S-p370): - Music Power [DIN] 50W - Puissance Musicale [DIN] 50W - Impedance 6 ohm. I was going to buy the TDA7492P 50W+50W (red one) and hook my speaker up to one of the 2 channels. I am trying to power this system with 4X Vander 18650 Akku 6000mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery (14,8 Volts in total). As I am not familiar with speakers and technical stuff like you, I was interested in your and others opinion if this is a good idea... :D?
Well, thanks for your response! :) I would buy this: www.ebay.de/itm/4S1P-18650-14-8V-Battery-Holder-Case-with-Li-Ion-PCM-Protection-Circuit-Module-/182541642873?hash=item2a80546c79:g:yKMAAOSw3ZRY~KCx And this item www.ebay.de/itm/4X-Vander-18650-Akku-6000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-Batterie-Ladegerate-/401373520640?hash=item5d73b9e300:g:CPAAAOSwr~lYtbks . In the description it said that you have to use a "special charger" for these batteries (the one delivered ?)... so I think I will have to get the Batteries out every time I have to charge them... :/?!
Thanks a lot! I think will try to rebuild a charger + the batterie pack from these videos :D ua-cam.com/video/DAQoyPZU4Z8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/npA8FiqI9Tw/v-deo.html And I hope I can set all together like someone else did here: i.imgur.com/unAExXF.png - instead of the blue part i am going to use the charger.
Thankz for the video,it really help alot. but i have the red color board,and i have a lot of noise amplifie in tje background,. is it a way to mod it like the blue board like you did?
I understand that most of these style of units have a basic design flaw in that there is a ground loop (with the BT unit) causing the poor sound reproduction. You need to isolate the DC power supply from the BT/Amplifier - maybe a mod too far for such a cheap amplifier.
There might be some design flaw in these products, but I wouldn't call this a poor sound reproduction. It's just not professional grade. The only problem I've found here is a hiss appears when playing back quiet audio.
Hi Balazs - I've yet to test this type of module myself but I have an upcoming project for a portable BT speaker and I've been reading about problems about many of them having 'high noise floors' - this is often attributed to ground loop problems apparently (I'm not an audio engineer though)! Some of the technical reviews talk about shared grounds between the amplifier and Bluetooth module and/or the signal grounds.
I hear a lot of unpleasant hiss. Hopefully you have upgraded to a better camera and microphone since this clip was made. This way all of us can hear what it sounds like and not have to worry about whether we are hearing the camera noise or the amplifier noise.
Look. None of these amps should amplify at 36db, ~24db at most with reasonable background noise. Even there, 8 watts at 0.1thd at best. Also, have you tried a 45k low pass filter with the el cheapo power supply.
You use lithium batteries like this 5S or 5 in series to 21 volts and for long use you can run 4P-5S Wire 4 batteries with all 4 positive to the next 4 all negative and use a hobby charger to charge/balance/and charged to spec or use a Protection Board/Balancing Board BMS like this, but it has to protect and balance, some only protect. www.parts-express.com/19-vdc-48a-switching-power-supply-with-25-x-55mm-center-positive-plug--120-058
For a power supply this works good with these boards because you don't want to run these at top value, it kills the capacitors. www.parts-express.com/19-vdc-48a-switching-power-supply-with-25-x-55mm-center-positive-plug--120-058
What is the voltage range? Is 12v the maximum? Most of these boards have a wide voltage range and can only achieve the rated output at unrecommended voltage for short periods of time. Also, 10% or more THD at rated voltage. Manufacturers do this because uneducated consumers are desensitized to bogus high wattage ratings. Would anyone buy that board if the maker rated it honestly for 2x5 watts? Not when other manufacturers will also build the same board and lie about its ratings.
Good point. The specs says that you can power it from 10-25V DC. I did have tried it with 12V and 24V, but I did not recognized more sound volume at higher voltage. No footage from that :( The specification of the TDA7492P says, that you can count with bigger output power with bigger supplied power. I should definitely try this.
Flad Mast That's been my experience as well. However, I've never used this specific module, so I can't say definitively. He does have a video on his channel demonstrating what he says is true. Check it out and let me know what you think.
Flad Mast i agree but did you see his 24v wall wart power supply it only supplied 1amp so he was never going to do it justice those boards need 2.5-4amps to be happy
All the software, including the voices are stored in an EEPROM on the BT module. Theoretically it is possible to update the ROM, but it needs special equipment, and most of all a replacement ROM, as the software is not open, and cannot be recompiled to build your custom ROM.
Note, that this video was made two years ago. At that time it was new. At least new to me. Yes, the point was to build a cheaper model with less function. But I wouldn't say that it is a rip off. It is still made by the same manufacturer, in the same (questionable) quality.
I am really very impressed with this amplifier, yesterday I ran it off a 13.2v and 3.6amps battery pack and it kicks the stuffings out of a set of 200watt 4ohm speakers. I never expected an amp to be THIS GOOD!!!
Thank you for explaining the switches/jumpers. Their purpose has been bugging me for months and explains why so may users are complaining about white noise when I'm getting none (with switches set to off/off).
Nagyon jó videó, más videókkal ellentétben sok hasznos információt megosztasz és használsz mérőeszközöket, csak így tovább! Üdvözlettel Erdélyből.
Balaźs, just wanted to say thanks for the tip about removing the 0ohm resistors. I took your advice to remove them and that took care of the noise and over driving the amp to the point of it shutting down. Keep up the great work!
For the connection voice, hey, at least they aren't trying to bullshit you into not thinking it's a Chinese device. The broken English is kinda charming tbh.
I burned my first one out as well, but it seems to still work as a bluetooth receiver with aux out, so now I have that playing through the hifi.
I can't get mine to work.. it says I need an app
I use only the line in input of the blue board, is it possible to disable this terrible "line in" announcement on powering on of the module?
Is there a way to connect to two boards?
Does anyone know if the push button switches for the volume up and volume down can be desoldered and replaced with one rocker switch to control both? Same thing for the Next and Back?
Hi friend, I must remove the resistances and ready or make a jamper on the spot.Thank you
Current TDA 7492p amp on Ebay Has dip switches where removed resisters were????
Sir where is the link for the plastic holders for the amp. Please help.
That's a tricky question. I don't know where those feet are. I might have received the amp with those installed. But you might want to search for "nylon pcb spacer"
Yes sir thank you
I heard that a 24v power supply might get the power output higher. Will try and let you know.
I have this board and it's pretty good but whenever there is a quiet part in the audio track the sound drops out for a short moment and small parts of the audio gets cropped off. I there a remedy??
Thanks for the hands-on demo showing how to manipulate the switches. But when doing speaker test please place them in proper size boxes with sound deadening material and dance box construction it would make them sound so much better enhance the base and clear up the mid in trouble ranges. Plane open speakers really degrades the sound
You are perfectly right, in that open speakers sound terrible. However the purpose of this test was to get an idea about background noise and loudness. Anyway, it would be a very stupid idea to demonstrate sound quality over youtube. I also prefer to build speakers into boxes: ua-cam.com/video/X5H1B4K88ag/v-deo.htmlm42s
Sir, when you use this board with 15w or 220w speaker, the sound tears when there is any bass in the sound track.
Can you help me with that.
It happens only in the last 2 points of the volume on the higher side.
I got the answer....the problem was that the board was not getting enough ampere, so the aound was cracking.
I would like to use an amp that is similar to this with a single speaker...could someone
explain the best way to do this, other than hooking the speaker up to either the left or right side?
I'm not completely sure on this, but theoretically you can connect the matching speaker-leads of the two sides on the output. This way you get the double power of the amplifier. (Meaning: you can use one bigger speaker.)
The specification sheet for the red board says it needs 25v to output 25x25watts.
Is that the same for the other board?
I guess crossovers (or set of capacitors and resistors) are required to get a clear sound - that should filter out unrequired freqs for twitters and bass speakers.
For 18650 - use BMS balancers and DC-DC converter for charging them and maybe another one for powering AMP with higher voltage.
how could you reach peak if you dont put high rms woofers and bass tracks?
The reason for it not giving rated power it's likely to be that you are underpowering it, specs for that chip states that VCC supply range is 8-28 volts, and rated power curves are at 20volt , so...
What I can tell you, is that I do not understand the power consumption of these amplifiers. See also: ua-cam.com/video/mDEtyuHuG4s/v-deo.html
try with a power supply that can put 20 or 24 volts to it and the same load, also drive both loads at the same time and maque sure input level is suficiently high, then meassure the current again.
on the red board: which connection i have to cut to power off and on the disturbing bluetooth modul manualy per switch?
The bluetooth module is powered from the 7536 3.6V voltage regulator near the switches. But there is no sense to power off the bluetooth module, as it handles the auxiliary input as well.
Oh, I thought i can cut the noise/hiss out this way if BT is not needed. But if AUXin is disabled too, ...
hey I have a problem here, I have a stereo tv speaker that uses rca connector, I want to use it with my set top box, but there is a slight delay between tha rca n hdmi from the set top box, I also dont want to use rca video out for my tv bcs the quality is terrible, so can u give me some tips how can I use the speaker?
Generally say RCA connector can have a good quality, so quality degradation in not because of the connector type itself. On the other hand, when you are about to use HDMI to pass video, you need you use HDMI to pass audio as-well (to avoid delay :) ). You need to use exported audio from your screen, but I see, this is not an option for you, I assume you are using PC screen. If your screen can accept VGA, you might find a HDMI-to-VGA adapter useful, a one that provides audio output.
+Balázs Kelemen what's the point of using a pc monitor when u have a smart tv....duh
Okay. I might got you wrong. But than, what's the point using a tv speaker, when you got a smart tv?
I got the 2*50W red one. For months there were no problems, now I've noticed that loudness dropped. Those gain jumpers (on or off) became sensitive to the touch. If touched lightly with fingertip or tip of a screwdriver the music is notably louder, as it was before. How to fix or stabilize gain jumpers without removing them?
If it is not a loose solder joint, than there is no way you fix a broken switch in this size. It should be removed. You can either replace it with a kid of same one (I would give you the switch from mine, as I don't need it any more. :) ), or - if you know what gain level you always use - solder in jumper wires to connect the leads.
Balázs Kelemen It's not a loose solder joint so I'll remove it. Thanks!
BTW, in reality there is no 2x50W models out there. The TDA7492P amplifier chip is capable for 2x25Watts output.
There are, the TDA7492 is 2x50W, the P version is 2x25W
www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/f4/3e/da/a3/97/e7/4f/8d/CD00205863.pdf/files/CD00205863.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00205863.pdf
Nice analysis. Thanks
and the vídeo of the batery?
Already recorded, but I still need some time for the edit. And I was working on the "Easter" project last week.
Balázs Kelemen
i use the a drill batery to whit the original drill Charger and 10 fuse .
thanks for answer god day or nigth :)
I have red one do you know how to fix Bluetooth on it the Bluetooth it does not show up on my phone
Unfortunately there is no magic trick to perform that will fix all possible issues. Except this one: ask for refund!
OK thanks
Balázs Kelemen i have nearly the same problem , when i power on the amp, the blue bluetooth indicator led light up for a short second but after that the whole board is dead , no aux and no bluetooth connection avaible , do you know any solution ?
We are talking about the red one. Both bluetooth and AUX inputs are biased through the BT chip. So, it is okay that none works and you do not find any BT device near by: This means, that the BT chip is not functional. It might be just a loose solder joint, or a complete defect. You can check this by measuring 3.3 Volts between the GND and VBAT legs of the BTM835 board. (Search images for BTM835). On the other way round, if you apply 3.3V between GND and VBAT, the BT module should come alive, and visible for BT devices. This way you can sort out whether the BT module or the amplifier board is dead. Either ways you might not do anything to fix it except for checking loose solder joints.
Balázs Kelemen
I have the red one everything is working ok except i just lost the sound of my speakers ,what do you think happend ?
I highly recommend adding a heat sink on the chip
Hi, I would like to know if the AUX can be used as output to the bluetooth audio signal coming in. For example, could it be use as spectrum analyser display via the AUX while playing music on the speakers?
Unfortunately this is just an incoming port. But you might find the input for the amplifier IC and get audio signals by draining those legs.
removing the jamps from the blue model I can listen to soft music.Thank you
Is there any way to turn off the beeps of the volume and turning on?
No. Unfortunately it is programmed into the memory of the bt-module. Currently I do not know about any open methods about reprogramming a bt-module.
Thank you for the feedback! I think this is the only problem that i have with this AMP...
8:27 Whoa!!!? Who are you and what did you do with the other guy????
Video started by evil version from the mirror universe (as noted by beard). Replaced for the conclusion by the good version.
Best way to remove noise is bypass opamp, use differential output to feed directly into amplifier differentially.
Question : First few times worked well. Now the 7536-1 voltage regulator heats up so much that you can barely touch it. And stops the amp ,resets it. Can i do something with it or just throw it away? Or why does it do that?
This is definitely something, that is sounds interesting enough to inspect. However the 7536 voltage regulator (as it provides 3.6V) is likely to produce voltage to the bluetooth module, thus the bluetooth module might be damaged.
If the bluetooth module just works well, I suspect that the 7536-1 is broken. You might try to remove it, and provide the 3.6V from a benchtop power supply as a test. (I'm not sure that worth the effort tho. :) )
Balázs Kelemen I will just remove it from the pcb and replace it with a more " manly " one :D. I will let u know how it went when this happens. Thanks for the reply.
Is there a way to remove the beep that the old model has when it starts up?
In short: No.
In detailed: The BT module has a microcontroller, that has been pre-programmed by the manufacturer. All the beeps, key actions and whatnot is the part of the program. In theory it is possible to reprogram it with the appropriate device. But it is so badly documented, that noone will came across to provide a toolset for the community.
Balázs Kelemen please tell me if i can addjust the beeps volume at the startup on the old BT 120w blue board as it goes on the full volume at the beggining. thanks
You cannot adjust the volume of this amplifier expect for the two gain switches. But there might be ways to reduce the volume. E.g. the 21th pin of the amplifier chip does a mute. (You can pull that pin with some 4K resistor to GND to apply mute.)
can this work on a guitar will it sound good with a decent speaker cabbinet is it easy to make
just buy a harley benton amplifier german guality and very cheap
Thanks Dr. Strange!
Noisy is it?
Can you help me figure it out why powering on, module already be in line mode, not pairing :(
There might be a contact problem near your aux connector. See my fix-video in this topic: ua-cam.com/video/qnzBtlA81Pg/v-deo.html
if you had to buy a cheap but good ( tested ) little DIY bluetooth amplifier board, (maybe with rotating buton for volume, but it's not a must ) what would it be ? I would like to buy one so I can make a ~50w speaker portable. Thanks in advance !
I am considering buying the TDA4792P Bluetooth board. I have a 4 ohm speaker that has an RMS of 30Watts and Peak Power Handling of 60Watts so should I buy the 2x50W version or the 2x25W version as it says 'best at 8 ohms'. Does that mean it will be 2x100W at 4 ohms? Please help. It would be appreciated. : )
i would like to know the specification of D5 on the tda 7492p board which is above the bluetooth antena
or a clear photo where i can zoom it out
is there anyone who can help?......................
Sobin Poulose solder a wire to the the Bluetooth antena and that would take the noice away
How can take it in oman & price how much.?
Thanks for the volume mod guide, this wee thing is way too bloody loud.
I think the Bluetooth on the board is what make the sound sucks. But if you can remove the Bluetooth from the board and the push all the gain. You will have a very powerful bass and clear sound from this small amplifier board.
The problem is, it's the bluetooth module that handles the auxiliary input, so removing it would mean no more sound... That's surely clear as hell, bit also silent
8:27 your beard fell off.
Great Video, can you please post the link to the second smaller board?
Sure thing! Added to video description!
The TDA7492 IC only gives 50+50w RMS THD10% when it's connected with 25VCC and the speakers have 6 ohms of impedance. When you buy an amplifier or an Amp IC, you should research the IC's datasheet.
I can agree with that.
Hi, I just bought the new blue amp and I'm finding sync issues. The sound follows the video by a small time, enough to be annoying. Have you got any idea of a fix?
Thomas no it is the switching frequency of the transistors in their amplifier stages, that's kinda constant with the quality of transistors chosen
Crazy the first one i bought hasn't had a problem, i bought a third one which now crackles for a second or 2 every minute. WHat could that be?
Thomas, have you been checking your different BT amp modules with the same pair of speakers? Or different speakers? Random crackling or popping is normally from bad contacts either at terminals, or inside the speaker. You may need a new speaker
I had the same problem and figured it out: this amp needs at least 13.2volts and 3.6 amps power to function properly, lower than that you will have "farting" or crackling noises from the speakers. I hacked three 4.5volt 1200mah cellphone power banks for their batteries and connected them in series, www.zbattery.com/Connecting-Batteries-in-Series-or-Parallel, to get the power I needed for mine. However please be careful when you crack these powerbanks open for the batteries, if you short the batteries out they WILL explode!!!
A jó kis Somogyi hangszóró 😁
Magyarok mindenhoL! :D
szerinted 2x75watt-os hangszóróval müködne?
Hello. I recently bought one of this amps, but when i plug a laptop charger to it (its a 19v 4A) already connected to AC, the amp gives a lot of sparks o.O Do you know whats the problem? Also i tried to measure the amperage of the amp in use but it simply got sparks in the multimeter terminals... is something wrong there?
Small sparks on the contacts are not always means that there is a problem. Best would be to try with a benchtop power supply, where you can maximize the current draw. There might be a short on the circuit. Make sure that you connect the power with the right polarity.
Balázs Kelemen Well, the polarity is probably correct since all dc jacks are usually comun center positive... There can be some short, since i never seen so many sparks in a dc jack
BFMV ^^ How much real power is unnoticeable at a 12v battery?
Depends on your speakers, but not much. See my other video in the topic for details. ua-cam.com/video/mDEtyuHuG4s/v-deo.html
Very interesting video. I am waiting for the old version of this board and I have gathered all my components, but now I think I might need to change the board or get some kind of amplifier. What board would you recoomend? I am using a pair of old X-Plod car speakers similar to the large speakers you use in this test.
Hi, what pcb (with BT) would you recommend for a higher quality output with better sound reproduction?
One recommends a board with aptX (often wrote as APT-X), especially boards integrated with a CSR8645 module.
Balázs Kelemen Thanks. Is this board essentially a better BT receiver? Will need to feed into a separate amplifier board or is the amp built in?
There are several revisions/versions of that board, all requiring a separate amplifier board. If you want a board with an integrated power amp you can have a look at this: store3.sure-electronics.com/aa-ja32171-1763
I am about to build my own portable bluetooth speaker and might need some help.
I have got 1 speaker cabinet (with speakers) [Poineer S-p370):
- Music Power [DIN] 50W
- Puissance Musicale [DIN] 50W
- Impedance 6 ohm.
I was going to buy the TDA7492P 50W+50W (red one) and hook my speaker up to one of the 2 channels.
I am trying to power this system with 4X Vander 18650 Akku 6000mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery (14,8 Volts in total).
As I am not familiar with speakers and technical stuff like you, I was interested in your and others opinion if this is a good idea... :D?
This seams to be okay. You need a kind of battery protection circuit, as well as a charger for 4xLiPo batteries.
Well, thanks for your response! :)
I would buy this: www.ebay.de/itm/4S1P-18650-14-8V-Battery-Holder-Case-with-Li-Ion-PCM-Protection-Circuit-Module-/182541642873?hash=item2a80546c79:g:yKMAAOSw3ZRY~KCx
And this item www.ebay.de/itm/4X-Vander-18650-Akku-6000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-Batterie-Ladegerate-/401373520640?hash=item5d73b9e300:g:CPAAAOSwr~lYtbks .
In the description it said that you have to use a "special charger" for these batteries (the one delivered ?)... so I think I will have to get the Batteries out every time I have to charge them... :/?!
Search for "4s charger protection" instead.
Thanks a lot! I think will try to rebuild a charger + the batterie pack from these videos :D
ua-cam.com/video/DAQoyPZU4Z8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/npA8FiqI9Tw/v-deo.html
And I hope I can set all together like someone else did here: i.imgur.com/unAExXF.png - instead of the blue part i am going to use the charger.
Hell yeah, bullet for my valentine
спасибо большое!!! наконец то тишина!!)
love the information provided, much appreciated! what was the first song played+ artist, the metal/rock song?
Added to the description. ;-)
wow! shocked I didn't recognize it, just 2 days ago I went on a "Bullet for my Valentine" binge on amazon music.. thanks!
Thankz for the video,it really help alot.
but i have the red color board,and i have a lot of noise amplifie in tje background,.
is it a way to mod it like the blue board like you did?
Edmund Chai solder a wire to the Bluetooth antena and that will take the noice away.
Do you recommend the older board with the push button switches controlling volume?
Certainly. It does the same as you push volume buttons on your phone. (Thus does not have effect on the audio arriving from AUX!)
Balász Kelemen
Hi mate, interesting videos, I would like to know what in total is better amplifier for you,
is it the red one or the blue TDA7492P..?
Hard to answer. A red has some more features with the built in buttons and switches. The blue is cheaper. But basically they are all the same.
I understand that most of these style of units have a basic design flaw in that there is a ground loop (with the BT unit) causing the poor sound reproduction. You need to isolate the DC power supply from the BT/Amplifier - maybe a mod too far for such a cheap amplifier.
There might be some design flaw in these products, but I wouldn't call this a poor sound reproduction. It's just not professional grade. The only problem I've found here is a hiss appears when playing back quiet audio.
Hi Balazs - I've yet to test this type of module myself but I have an upcoming project for a portable BT speaker and I've been reading about problems about many of them having 'high noise floors' - this is often attributed to ground loop problems apparently (I'm not an audio engineer though)! Some of the technical reviews talk about shared grounds between the amplifier and Bluetooth module and/or the signal grounds.
The switch in this model is inverted position. Do check it to confirm my conclusion.
connect it to a 25v dc power supply and use a low impedance speakers
Gracias.. me funcionó!
Hola. Podrías explicarme un poco el video, me interesa esta amplificador, y no entiendo inglés
I hear a lot of unpleasant hiss. Hopefully you have upgraded to a better camera and microphone since this clip was made. This way all of us can hear what it sounds like and not have to worry about whether we are hearing the camera noise or the amplifier noise.
Szép video!
Look. None of these amps should amplify at 36db, ~24db at most with reasonable background noise. Even there, 8 watts at 0.1thd at best.
Also, have you tried a 45k low pass filter with the el cheapo power supply.
You use lithium batteries like this 5S or 5 in series to 21 volts and for long use you can run 4P-5S Wire 4 batteries with all 4 positive to the next 4 all negative and use a hobby charger to charge/balance/and charged to spec or use a Protection Board/Balancing Board BMS like this, but it has to protect and balance, some only protect. www.parts-express.com/19-vdc-48a-switching-power-supply-with-25-x-55mm-center-positive-plug--120-058
спасибо! уровень шума понизился.
For a power supply this works good with these boards because you don't want to run these at top value, it kills the capacitors. www.parts-express.com/19-vdc-48a-switching-power-supply-with-25-x-55mm-center-positive-plug--120-058
What is the voltage range? Is 12v the maximum? Most of these boards have a wide voltage range and can only achieve the rated output at unrecommended voltage for short periods of time. Also, 10% or more THD at rated voltage. Manufacturers do this because uneducated consumers are desensitized to bogus high wattage ratings. Would anyone buy that board if the maker rated it honestly for 2x5 watts? Not when other manufacturers will also build the same board and lie about its ratings.
Good point. The specs says that you can power it from 10-25V DC. I did have tried it with 12V and 24V, but I did not recognized more sound volume at higher voltage. No footage from that :( The specification of the TDA7492P says, that you can count with bigger output power with bigger supplied power. I should definitely try this.
Flad Mast That's been my experience as well. However, I've never used this specific module, so I can't say definitively.
He does have a video on his channel demonstrating what he says is true.
Check it out and let me know what you think.
Flad Mast i agree but did you see his 24v wall wart power supply it only supplied 1amp so he was never going to do it justice those boards need 2.5-4amps to be happy
have one with the same voice and I will not use, do you know how to turn that off? annoying Chinese voice
All the software, including the voices are stored in an EEPROM on the BT module. Theoretically it is possible to update the ROM, but it needs special equipment, and most of all a replacement ROM, as the software is not open, and cannot be recompiled to build your custom ROM.
vacsiiii :-)
bunsoft2 megyek!
blue one is not a newer model - its a cheap rip off
Note, that this video was made two years ago. At that time it was new. At least new to me. Yes, the point was to build a cheaper model with less function. But I wouldn't say that it is a rip off. It is still made by the same manufacturer, in the same (questionable) quality.
¿?
Fucking hell. your English. Your accent.