I’ve never seen anything like that with the heat sinks. It’s incredible that someone had the foresight to design the board so you could cram it between the most heat sensitive components. Also, I’m kinda disappointed that you didn’t try playing Prussian Glory or something.
Yo tengo 2. Uno que reemplace por que dejó de funcionar. Simplemente no hace la conexion de la segunda etapa. Pero, el que se dañó lo usé por mucho tiempo, y no tuve problemas de interferencia ni nada por el estilo. A diferencia de tu conexión, lo puse en un teatro en cada que ya se encontraba amplificado con 500w. Lo que necesitaba era mejorar mi teatro. Y funcionó muy bien. El segundo, que es el mismo modelo, sigue funcionando despues de 2 años y sin problemas de nada que sea molesto. Y hasta ahora, sigo buscando soluciones de como reparar el otro. Es por eso que vine a parar en tu video. 11:25
Add capacitor to the left chanel may help Any way i want to ask u a question about RF amplifiers and how i can design one that can handl 1800Mhz ? :/ I can't find resources
According your RF question, this depends a lot on which power level you want to achieve. Since you said you want it to be used with 1800MHz the output power should really be extremely small since you aren't really supposed to send in that band at all. Other than that it always is a good idea to just start searching for parts on digikey or some other distributor. Try searching for RF Amplifier or LDMOS. Most datasheets have typical apllication notes / circuits which makes it really easy to design a circuit around it. However you should be familier with RF testgear and complex math before thinking about building something.
About 5 years ago I bought a cheap stand-alone stereo amplifier from a local home improvement store for very little money. Supposedly it was 1000 watts output which I didn't believe for one second. I just bought it for my workshop so I wasn't looking for extreme high fidelity. It sounded OK but I stopped using it for the exact same reason that you hate about your amp. It doesn't remember the volume setting from the previous session. It always re-started at a very low volume.
I have seen a few different types of power ratings on these things, however it never is the output power ;) Some sellers use the maximum possible input power before the device just explodes and some even use the degree Celsius per Watt rating multiplied by the input current. A lot of these boards make pretty decent amps if you know what you buy and modify them to have a reasonable amout of gain as some other comments already pointed out. Thanks for the quick look at that one.
LOL they must have deliberately designed the heatsink get clamped snug with the capacitors. Also, yes it does sound better with 19.5v laptop charger and I have no issue with background noise when using Bluetooth.
Chinese Watts = Max Voltage * Max Current (ignore max power rating of device package) Then there is the PMPO scam, where its the peak power for 0.01 seconds.
I've had good luck with amps and other modules from Sure electronics. Not much more expensive than the generic stuff but more care has gone into design and building of it. store.sure-electronics.com/
I’ve never seen anything like that with the heat sinks. It’s incredible that someone had the foresight to design the board so you could cram it between the most heat sensitive components. Also, I’m kinda disappointed that you didn’t try playing Prussian Glory or something.
Yo tengo 2. Uno que reemplace por que dejó de funcionar. Simplemente no hace la conexion de la segunda etapa. Pero, el que se dañó lo usé por mucho tiempo, y no tuve problemas de interferencia ni nada por el estilo.
A diferencia de tu conexión, lo puse en un teatro en cada que ya se encontraba amplificado con 500w. Lo que necesitaba era mejorar mi teatro. Y funcionó muy bien.
El segundo, que es el mismo modelo, sigue funcionando despues de 2 años y sin problemas de nada que sea molesto.
Y hasta ahora, sigo buscando soluciones de como reparar el otro. Es por eso que vine a parar en tu video. 11:25
Add capacitor to the left chanel may help
Any way i want to ask u a question about RF amplifiers and how i can design one that can handl 1800Mhz ? :/ I can't find resources
According your RF question, this depends a lot on which power level you want to achieve. Since you said you want it to be used with 1800MHz the output power should really be extremely small since you aren't really supposed to send in that band at all.
Other than that it always is a good idea to just start searching for parts on digikey or some other distributor. Try searching for RF Amplifier or LDMOS. Most datasheets have typical apllication notes / circuits which makes it really easy to design a circuit around it.
However you should be familier with RF testgear and complex math before thinking about building something.
About 5 years ago I bought a cheap stand-alone stereo amplifier from a local home improvement store for very little money. Supposedly it was 1000 watts output which I didn't believe for one second. I just bought it for my workshop so I wasn't looking for extreme high fidelity. It sounded OK but I stopped using it for the exact same reason that you hate about your amp. It doesn't remember the volume setting from the previous session. It always re-started at a very low volume.
I have another video coming about another amplifier that I tried instead and that was a much better experience :)
I have seen a few different types of power ratings on these things, however it never is the output power ;)
Some sellers use the maximum possible input power before the device just explodes and some even use the degree Celsius per Watt rating multiplied by the input current.
A lot of these boards make pretty decent amps if you know what you buy and modify them to have a reasonable amout of gain as some other comments already pointed out.
Thanks for the quick look at that one.
At least it is not quite yet at the tazer voltage ratings ;)
Those cheap boards rarely support AptX, which really degrades the quality.
LOL they must have deliberately designed the heatsink get clamped snug with the capacitors. Also, yes it does sound better with 19.5v laptop charger and I have no issue with background noise when using Bluetooth.
Chinese Watts = Max Voltage * Max Current
(ignore max power rating of device package)
Then there is the PMPO scam, where its the peak power for 0.01 seconds.
Chineese Watt: =normalized watt @ solar systems, = 0.25- 0.5W @ modified sine wave inverters, is 0.2W @ sine wave inverters
try turning the gain right down but give it some more volts, try a laptop power supply (18-20vish)
This one behaved bad on the left channel no matter what I tried :( Very distorted sound.
I've had good luck with amps and other modules from Sure electronics. Not much more expensive than the generic stuff but more care has gone into design and building of it. store.sure-electronics.com/
Should have blurred the mac address. You are unnecessarily exposing your Bluetooth and WiFi connections.
You are absolutely right! I should really also had cut out the few frames of switching back and forth between apps.
We also learned he has great taste in music.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Back tracing it and hacking your mainframe as I type ( ;