Didn't expect to be so into woodworking these days, didnt expect to see someone use that animal filter to make a youtube tool review channel. But, it's good information so i'll bear with it.
I have used a SawStop at work for years and last year I ran a finger into the blade. Still not sure exactly how I did that, but I was in a hurry. Never rush with a table saw. It did hurt, but the cut was minimal when you think about being hit by a 1/8" wide carbide tooth. I was happy to have the safety feature on that day.
@@g.v.harvey7425 I think it's for two reasons but I can't be sure 1 the arbour can accommodate a dado stack and I think in a commercial workshop they are illegal but not in a private workshop 2. I think it's a power issue in that European power is not powerful enough to run the saw but again they are only educated guess
@@danthechippie4439 Europe uses 220 volts. Everyone in the US who uses any power tool with anything over 1 1/2hp runs their tools on 220 volts that is available in every house and business. The only difference between US and European 220 volts is US is 60 hertz and Europe is 50 hertz so there is no issue with power. I suspect that SawStop hasn't gotten into Europe yet is that they are not ready to deal with the distribution and parts/warranty aspect of it. As far as the Dado issue, if and when SawStop decides to sell in Europe, all they will have to do is make a European spec saw with a shorter arbor so you cannot bolt on a Dado head.
I've been woodworking for the better part of 50 years and have been lucky in having two accidents on my table saws. When I had my second accident earlier this year which required 15 stitches over 3 fingers my better half said that I needed to get something safer than my early 50's Delta Homecraft saw that was nearly as old as I am or she would sell ALL my tools. I felt that a bit drastic but I respected her concern for me to keep all ten of my fingers and I purchased a SawStop 3HP PCS saw. It was the best move I ever made. The saw is a very well made piece of equipment. They are called accidents not on-purposes for a reason. Another thing is CRC 3-36 is a great rust inhibitor followed up with Johnson's paste wax.
I have the jobsite Skil Saw as it was the only one available for pickup close by when I desperately needed one at the beginning of the pandemic. I love that thing, the worm drive makes cutting large stock a breeze. I've built a heavy cabinet around it with fold-up back and side tables and now can safely rip full size sheets. I even use it to cut 2x4's into 1x4's in one step to get cheap boards 😉
Even with this video being 3 years old, it is one of the best overviews and introduction to saw types and saw accessories for the homeowner and DIYer. Well worth watching.
When I first got into woodworking I found a decent Delta/Rockwell 34-338 on CL for $75. I spent plenty of time disassembling, cleaning the machine, and updating wear parts (rebuilt arbor assembly with new bearings, wave washer, bushings etc.). I spent alot of time learning how the machine works and aligning and "tuning" it while going through this process. A PALS system makes fine tuning a contractor saw much easier. I bought and mounted the 30" delta t3 fence, a link belt for the original 1.5 motor, relocated the power switch, and retained the factory splitter/knife. These updates and upgrades along with a good freud blade make for a wonderfully accurate and stable saw. Does it compare with a uni saw or other full size cabinet saws? Of course not, but the knowledge and understanding gained through the process is invaluable to me. I know much more about a future purchase now. Financially, it's not too bad even with the upgrades and blade. So, IMO quality contractor saw ate great options. Just be prepared to put money into upgrades and time into refurb.
I just picked up the 10inch Kobalt table saw with rolling/collapsible stand for $229. It's a solid saw for DIY/home owner use. I love the extendable table top and how compact it collapses to. Perfect for my small garage.
Love the bear filter! Well produced video. Now I realize this is several years old by now but same ideas still apply. I too am a huge fan of the Delta saw. Bought a used one 48 years ago when I had a cabinet shop. Then when I started my machine shop I kept it for odds and ends. After several years we landed a great customer who we made parts for from slabs of 2 inch thick 2 foot by 4 foot PVC and ABS. We still use that saw today to cut them to sizes needed. Obviously we need a special type of carbide tipped blade, but that thing still runs strong. Now being retired I have a garage shop. More metal working however still almost all the wood working machines as well. After a lot of research I bought the Skill saw. For the money I couldn’t be happier. Made a small sled and bought a decent miter gauge and away we go. Evolution makes one that can cut various materials too. They have a great universal blade but it does run at a slower RPM to accomplish cutting non ferrous metals and plastics. They have a really nice new model however it’s not available in the USA yet. The one you can purchase on Amazon is still ok but I would have preferred the new one. It actually has a small sliding table on the left. Some of the best saws made for commercial use have sliding tables. This although no where near as accurate is still a great feature for a home shop. Enjoyed the video 👍🏼👍🏼
Serendipitous timing on this video. I had just finished the epoxy flooring in my shop, the final step of the "build from scratch" process, before the finish carpentry, and it was time to start looking for a table saw. I got the Delta 10in on your assertion. I'm in love. Thank you for the A+ advice.
@Ian9toes No, I'm subscribed to the Den, and watch almost every upload. I saw this video the day it was uploaded. It went live with serendipitous timing.
Wow, what a wealth of information. I just used an old Montgomery Wards table saw to do wood flooring and wood stairs. Oh how I wish had spend the money before starting the job and got a good accurate table saw. I had to manual make the fence parallel every time!!! I'm a casual home DIY'er, so I think I'm gonna go with the Skil TS6307-00 I love the fold out legs, rack and pinion fence and PRICE! Thank you so much for posting this video.
I have the Skilsaw worm drive portable saw with stand. The stand is great and it’s easy to move, fold, and unfold. The motor is good and no shortage of power for a small saw.
I had that new Delta 36-725T2 and you are right, it died super quick. Two of them in fact, as they bother were one of the very first ones. Delta customer service was on the spot with the second one and helped troubleshoot the problem. They drop shipped me a fixed version and paid to have the old one sent back for their R&D. Sold me on Delta.
INCREDIBLE CONTENT TONIGHT! I realize it takes way more time to create than it does to watch it. This is extremely pertinent to me. I am debating spending boat loads of money on a cabinet table saw and electrician in a suburban house not worth that. But also an owner of a late-90s Ryobi table saw; that my over decade experience tells me that it doesn't work for all the use cases I have. I am switching to Track Saws for cutting down sheet goods but want a very accurate table saw for the rest. You have constantly called out the insanity of this market segment and the real need. You rock! Track saws for the big sheet goods and table saws for all the other versatility.
I just upgraded from a shite old craftsman "job site" saw to the Delta 36-725t2 that Red recommends at 11:19 (on his recommendation) and it is phenomenal. I recommend looking at it seriously.
Personal experience! I've been in the cabinet industry for 40 years and the staple saws if yester-years were the delta unisaw or a powermatic 66. But since both of these companies have been bought out by foreign companies the quality has suffered. They are relying on the name to carry the weight. We had a powermatic 66 that was a money pit! We probably replace the starter switch no less then 3 or 4 times, motors about the same and the last time we'd had enough. We broke down and bought a new delta unisaw which within a matter of 2 months the arbor nut stripped out. Now let me tell you this, to pay $3k for a saw is a real investment and it's nothing more that a boat anchor because of a arbor nut! What happen is the shoulder of the arbor, where the blade rests wasn't machined properly. The blade that came with the saw fit fine, but all of our other blades it was so tight the in tightening down the blade was the only way to get it on that shoulder which in return stripped the nut. Now this may now of happened if the threads of both the arbor and nut were so shallow, it was more like slight ribbing instead of threads. And to add to the pain, the saw came with a spare nut, but with 15 guys in the shop the nut got lost. Try to find an after market nut is like finding the Holy Grail! Saw worked great, when it worked. So my suggestion is, if your in the market, research the crap out of after market and warrantied parts before your purchase! Make sure they're available and get a couple spares! Good luck!
Yup....that seems to be a theme with ALL of these companies. They build a name, then either start getting greedy, or sell the company to the Chinese, and then the products turn to sh*t. And, to my knowledge, short of trying to buy something used, and well-taken care of, from "yester-year", or spending 4x's the amount intended for something made in either Japan, or U.S.A. Buying a typical big-box store saw, seems to be a guarantee's disposable purchase, at some point, unfortunately. I don't know of a practical solution to this seemingly universal issue.
Been using that Grizzly since 2015. Just about the time there was talk about mandating the sawstop. I bought the Grizzly to avoid a mandate. It’s been terrific. You’re absolutely correct
I’ve had my Grizzly 1023 for ten years and love it. One thing that makes true cabinet saws great is that adjusting the blade parallelism is a piece of cake compared to any saw that mounts the trunions to the table top.
I paid big bucks years ago (25 at least) for a super Craftsman Heavy Duty model -everything about it was amazing except…..wait for it- the trunions were off and I hammered on them and they wouldn’t/couldn’t move at all. I drove it back to the store after making many long calls and demonstrated what the problem was. Craftsman wouldn’t replace it or let me return it. Yeah my brothers I’m serious …and this was back when they’d replace any broken tool but not my saw. They thought it worked fine and my expectations for its straight cutting was unrealistic! Ahahahahahahamuhahaha! Last time I bought anything from Craftsman.
@@firefighter9901 - I had no idea. I sold the saw this past summer because I was moving. I set what, I thought, was a fair market price. It sold quickly. It wasn’t until I got the new Grizzly catalog that I realized what a bargain the purchaser got. I’m happy with it because the buyer seemed to be a nice young guy starting out and I got the feeling that he would get lot of good use out of the saw.
My table saw was set up to cut sheet goods but it takes up a lot of space I no longer have. I now use a circular saw freehand and touch it up with a hand plane if needed.
I just bought the Delta 725 T2 and after i started seeing they where having motor problems. After your video i feel maybe a little better about them fixing the problem. i have attached my Kobalt router table/router to it and absolutely love it saves so much space and use the saw fence with it awesome.
@@cmk8477 actually, you can cut foil covered insulation and even pressure treated lumber. RTFM. Read The Manual. It tells you how. Ever wonder what the brass key is for next to the on/off paddle?
@Jim W, Truthfully I personally have a 1950’s - 60’s vintage delta contractor saw with an incra fence that has been modified more times than I can shake a push stick at. I just heard about it through some talk at a club I used to belong to. I am an old school guy that has learned a table saw is for ripping real wood and maybe a sheet or six of cabinet grade plywood. For the most part I use the miter saw for cross cuts and a router for dados. The saw stop is a totally foreign concept to me as far as the mechanism that yanks the blade into the table. I can’t imagine what kind of torque that must put on the shaft to stop in an instant like that.
I have my grandfather's Craftsman table saw. It was made in 1951, has a heavy cast iron top and wings, belt driven and still runs very smooth. Sometime in the near future I plan on tearing it down and giving it a good clean up & lube job. I also bought a new Shop Fox fence for it.
Why was in school we had a woodworking shop that used in Delta Rockwell from the 1970s, and to get around the fact that the table saw didn't have a riving knife the instructor used a block of wood to push the other pieces through wile covering his hands from the kickback from the blade. It acted as a stopper, because in the slotted area of the table he had a piece of wood, while the block actually had a groove to fit into the slotted area to make contact with the other piece of wood, or at least that's what I remember. He built the piece of wood to protect from the table saw because it didn't have a riving knife. It's kind of simple DYI to get around the kickback from the table saw not having a riving knife by just using a block of wood push the other piece of wood through the saw.
The Craftsman I bought in 1969 is still making sawdust in my son's garage. The link belt runs "smoother" because it decouples the frequency modes that make a stiff normal V belt whip up and down between the pulleys. I rigged a pulley type of belt tensioner on that Craftsman to take out that bouncing.
A screen for the Delta Unisaw showed an option for a 1.5 HP motor. I clicked on the Unisaw link in the description. That option does not show. Can you repost the link that showed that option. Now, I bought a Harvey 2HP 36” cabinet saw. I wanted to compare between my Harvey and the Unisaw.
I love my Bosch jobsite table saw it’s fantastic zero issues runs flawlessly no vibration and perfect for ripping doors and doing commercial flooring to just ripping 3x12 white oak dried for trailer floors
Been watching a lot of DOT vids lately and this is like the 3rd or 4th I've came across that he highly recommends the Delta 725t2. I am in the market for a table saw and while I can afford the $2500 overkill table saws 1) I don't want to commit that kind of money to a single tool....... when I can easily use that money for my other hobby - weightlifting and powerlifting, and 2) My garage is only so big, haha. Between my two hobbies - weekend woodworking/tinkering and lifting weights space is a premium in my garage ESPECIALLY seeing as I am a FIRM believer that garages are meant for cars and I refuse to park my personal car in the driveway exposed to the elements when I have a perfectly fine 2.5 car garage. That said, like in other videos he says that Delta has acknowledged the issue with the motors on the 725t2. I'm looking on Lowes' website and the 5100t2 is also intriguing. It only has 2 reviews though..... both 1 star and both lamenting about a shitty motor. So was this motor issue brand-wide? Can anyone find an article or anything really of Delta announcing a recall like DOT says every time he recommends the brand's table saws? I've been searching for anything that says they definitively recalled or at least corrected the issue. I even went on their facebook page and searched for "motor issues" and "recall" and both came up with nothing. It's a real enticing saw..... either the 725t2 or the 5100t2. I've watched other vids on here actually reviewing the 725 (not so much on the 5100t2..... no love for that saw I guess) and most give it glowing reviews and much praise. But...... most of those reviews were from like May-June of this year...... which lines up with the timeframe a bunch of the negative reviews for both saws on Lowes say they had crippling motor issues. So...... yeah. Is this product line officially fixed? I phrase it that way because again the 5100t2's two reviews lament about the motor as well. Why do these saws interest me more than say the equally priced straight up jobsite saw from Delta, 7491RS? Because from I've been told and what I can tell from videos (never owned a table saw... used them before - but never owned one. Have gotten by with a straightedge for cross cutting and ripping with my circ. saw) jobsite table saws are LOUD AS FUCK!!! I don't talk to either of my neighbors but I don't want to be "that guy" next door. The one video compared their new 725t2 to his old Ridgid jobsite saw. The Ridgid logged over 100 dbs. Thats the equivalent of a jet flyover at 1,000 feet..... or a fucking jackhammer. The delta 725t2 (and I assume the 5100t2 as well)..... like 88 dbs when he put a new diablo blade on it. That's the equivalent of a food blender or slightly louder than a garbage disposal. So...... a jackhammer..... or a garbage disposal. My neighbors and more importantly my ears will much prefer the 88 or so dbs than the 100+. That..... and like shown here - the Deltas pass the nickel test. No jobsite saw will accomplish that. So yeah.... any official news via Delta social media or any article confirming they acknowledged the issue and at least fixed it let alone a recall like DOT says here? I've found nothing.
You need to check out the Harvey Alpha line. Love mine and the cross cut fence is amazing. For me, it was between the Powermatic PCS and the Harvey. Went with the Harvey Alpha. It has been a dream to use.
Great Video Bear, always enjoy them. I am 64 years old and have been a remodeling contractor for over 40 years. I have had 10 table saws through my life time and still have 9 of them. I bought a Contractor SawStop saw along with building a Ron Paulk bench for my shop a couple of years ago. I know it was a lot of money but the older I get the more I keep thinking I might make a stupid mistake. I am glad I didn't buy the Bosch Saw back then because it soon got discontinued. I really do like the SawStop and would buy one again.
I'm a big Menards guy, most my big tools like table saw, miter saw, and also skill saw. never had a problems with them but would like your all thought about there tools.
I cant believe that after a couple of minutes, I'm listening carefully to a talking bear just like its totally normal.....I dont know who you are Yogi but you just earn my subscription.
If saw stop was really thinking they would sell retrofit kits for other brands. They could keep their patents in their own hands and still profit off making other people saws safer
That would be cost prohibitive. You'd be paying around $1k or more for the retrofit kit. I'm sure they thought of that first and it cost less to manufacture their own saw than attempt to engineer a retrofit system for an existing saw and make it cost substantially less than the saw you're retrofitting.
@@RobertBarth1 where there is a will. There is a way. With regard to liability, there are waivers, exclusions, etc etc. Have certified installation techs be a thing.
I doubt many other brands trunnions could take the instant torque load of the blade and assembly coming to a near instant stop and slamming beneath the table.
So many negative Nancy's. Where there is a will, there's a way. Necessity it the mother of invention. Remeber the Alamo and don't take any wooden nickels! If space x can land (or crash) a rocket on a dime, and a guy in his basement can make a gunpowder powered baseball bat, surely a properly motivated engineer could develop a modular sawstop retrofit kit. #youjustgottabelieve
@@RealWolfmanDan no one is being negative, just realistic. Of course you "could" make just about anything happen, but this instance is not practical whatsoever for the reasons these people have listed. By the time you could get a retrofit on it would cost the same price as a Sawstop, so that would be silly. and saw stop has no interest in doing it because of the legal ramifications that would very likely put them out of business within a lawsuit or two.
I’ve been a part time woodworker for years depending on need. But the bug has hit and your video is timely as I am looking to upgrade my Ryobi folding leg table saw. Nothing particularly wrong with it but there’s no slots in the bed. My impression is it’s contractor style and not well adapted for finer woodworking. Thanks for the info! See you over on FB.
DIY, my Wife just bought my Son in Law and me each a Grrripper! WOW! After using it I’m wondering how I ever got by without out it. Now I need a 2nd one. To others viewing this post: Get one, if you don’t have one. They make a less technical model for under $30. You can order it on Amazon, it’ll be well worth it!!
Fantastic video. I bought a Delta 36-725t2 table saw after learning more about it on your channel and I LOVE IT. I've heard "Glidecote" (Glidecoat?) is the gold standard for table saw top lube, but haven't tried it yet. It's $$. I started w/ Ridgid jobsite saw w/ scissor stand (264.00) and though I loved the soft start and brake features, the table was warped and fance sucked. Returned it in favor of the Delta.
I shipped a Dewalt DW743 from the UK to Canada which was a tool originally made by Elu prior to being taken over by Dewalt. It is 18 years old and works great when I need a site tool. Shop saw i use is the Delta hybrid saw which would suit most home woodworkers.
I really enjoy your humor. I watched this video twice. Once for the info and then a day later today for entertainment. Really good. Greetings from BC :- )
Also grabbed the metabo saw , got it $329 but seen it went down to $299 on black friday and the following weekend so I brought my receipt into Lowes and they gave me back the $30 difference in cash !! Also its a great saw, the fence is a dream compared to my old Makita table saw that was probably 20 years old! The blade is a 10 inch Metabo and gotta say is actually a quality blade !!
Thanks Da Bear, very nice video! To those reading this post...if you don’t have a Grrripper, then you should get one or even two. You can order a less technical version for under $30.00. Ridgid makes an adjustable support stand for around $33.00. It’s not a roller Tempe, it has a tilting head that’s adjustable. I like mine. In fact I like it so much I might get a 2nd one for side support usage, e.g. running a 4x8 sheet across the saw.
For just ripping pine I have the cheap ryobi portable saw that I paid $100 for a few years ago. It struggles to cut thick green treat but for ripping 1x and 2x pine it works great and is light. It is so light it can be tough to rip wood if the saw isn't screwed down to something.
A Year Ago I Got Me A Ryobi 10 Inch Brushless Cordless Miter Saw & It Works Just Great. I Can Use It Anywear I Want. No Looking For An Outlet To Plug It Into. I Was Looking At A 81/4 Inch Brushles Cordless Table Saw. Cordless Brushlesd IPowertools Is The Best Way To Go. Cause The Brushles Motors Last Way Longer Then Brushed Motors Do. On The Other Hand Brushed Motors Need Theire Brushes Replaced Ever 2 To 3 Years. Most Of All My Cordless Powertools Are Brushless. I'm Glad I Have Brushless Cordless Powertools.
Dado Blade - I have the Rigid jobsite saw (which I really like) and the manual recommendation is to use a 6" blade stack, so I got the Freud 6" stack. I have a VERY small shop, so I also have a rolling cart that my saw sits in (no scissor legs) with surface left and behind the blade to support any work piece that can fold down for storage. Everything is stable and works great. I also (when I had a much larger shop) upgraded to an Incra miter gauge and kept it when I sold everything else (just in case...). The Ridgid saw has a standard miter slot so the Incra slides right in and has greatly improved my accuracy.
I bought probably one of the last Rockwell Unisaws back in 1984 with the sliding table and long guide bars that allow 50" rips with the Jet Lock rip fence. I now use the Unifence which is far superior to any fence I've ever seen or used. For site work I use an old Makita 2711 table saw. (For ripping only) It has a 24" rip capacity and a very accurate fence. Cross cuts are with a sliding compound miter saw or circular saw. I've been a woodworker since 1977 and thankfully, still have all my digits.
If you want a cabinet saw and don't feel the need for a SawStop, I can recommend the Grizzly G1023 series. I have the G1023RLW for 18 months now. In terms of performance, it's every bit as good as the saws that are 2-3x the price. I've worked on much more expensive saws and frankly, the differences are neglible. Best safety upgrade for any saw with a T Fence, the Jessem stock guides. Best thing about these is how they eliminate fence deflection because they're mounted to the fence itself.
I’ve found the ball bearing style roller stands work the best. They are not as picky about alignment in the direction of movement of the board. The long roller if not align correctly will actually pull the board off your line.
The Skilsaw worm drive jobsite table saw is the absolute best multipurpose saw I have ever used in my 20years. After 2 years every day in the field it does not disappoint
@@misfit4777 The US made Powermatic 66 is no longer in production. It was replaced by the PM100, 2000 and 3000 all of which are imports to Powermatic standards. The same goes for the Delta if I am correct and according to their info. The PM66 is really beefy and meant to last a lifetime. You can even still find them once in a while is the old green color and still going.
I went Saw Stop for my Table Saw but have Powermatic’s PM1500 bandsaw and their dust collector. They are made overseas now but still seem to have the quality. Fit, finish and operation is very good, time will tell on durability. My band saw is only about a year old so we will see. Hope to get their 8” Joiner and 15” planner. We had a large woodworking and Industrial arts program at my high school in the 70’s. Our Delta equipment was then good but the Powermatic King! Was then US made if memory correct but then most things were.
@@dougshomeshop3056 I have the PM2800B drillpress which is made in China also. The module went out after three years but Powermatic sent me a new one free of charge. Also have the PM 209HH planer for the past 15 years with no issues. Overall, very satisfied. Have Grizzly, Delta, Rikon,, and Jet tools also but my favorite brand is.... wait for it................ Festool.
Biesemeyer, from my understanding, was bought out by Delta. I've tried to buy a Biesemeyer fence with no luck. NO ONE carries them any longer. I ended up buying a Saw stop 52" fence assembly instead. I'm very happy that I did.
I have a 1953 Delta Homecraft 8” tablesaw. Runs like a champ and is great for my tiny garage shop. I run 8” blades and a 6” dado stack on it. I built a biesemeyer style fence for it to replace the original solid but finicky fence
Learned something new today. I always thought my grandfather's Unisaw cabinet saw was named due to it being a good saw used for building cabinets, not that the saw mechanism was mounted to the base cabinet. Great info!
Like a lot of people that have a Delta 36-725 T2 I am worried about the motor, especially when you see the replacement part exceeds the value of the saw! Have you seen a more reasonable supply of parts OR some way of modifying this saw to use a belt rather than the direct drive. I had an old Craftsman 20 years ago that was great. Simple, direct, and always did the job so I'm thinking there should be a system or harness that mounts the motor & belt drive outside the cabinet. I'm probably dreaming but I figured if there is one person out there that could come up with an answer it would be you. Thanks for taking the time to answer.
About a year and a half ago I bought a SawStop jobsite saw. I had to buy a jobsite table saw I need to wheel it out of the garage to use any of my tools (drill press, miter saw, table saw, etc). Having listened to this video can you recommend a good straight 10” blade for the jobsite table saw instead of using a dado stack? Thanks
Good video. I inherited a vintage near-perfect 1968/69 Craftsman 113 series from my dad, added 2 extra 12" extensions (with the original 10") and a 15" router table (all cast iron), as well as upgraded the fence to a Delta T3. It weighs a ton, but that is good IMHO, as I do not need to move it often. It does not move when used and vibrations are minimal. It can do 36" rip cuts on the right side & ~30" on the left and handles large sleds with no issue. I'd like to upgrade the motor to a 3 horse (220V) down the road. My upgrade investment was just under $400 total, it does not have any plastic on it and built in USA.
Ive ran that Craftsman table saw with a dado stack on white oak 1/2 inch deep without a single hiccup. Never had it bog down and have used it hundreds of times ripping 2x4 lumber.
I have an 80s craftsman dont know if it qualified as a cabinet saw but I can take the table off without removing the blade assembly Love it to death, pretty smooth but unfortunately it does not have a riving knife and I got a pretty bad kickback a few months ago and it was gnarly the only other thing that sucks is the fence is a little finicky. its a good fence but the mating surface is round tubing not square so when its tightened down it doesn't putt itself into square. Also it was free
i have owned 3 Unisaws, a powermatic 66 and just purchased a PCS Saw Stop, the SS is on par with the Unisaw and PW, i loved all of them, but the SS does have some nice features other than the safety features. they are extremely easy to make adjustments to the table and the fence...all great saws and i am a huge Delta fan, i have many of their machines and am happy with all of them.
At one time I considered getting a Shopsmith due to space constraints. But I never popped on it because the table saw just seemed to small and unstable. What are your thoughts. Does it have its place in a small shop? Or should I stay away from it?
I've had two that I fully restored myself. Fun projects but to answer your question no. They make a great drill press and are ok at a few other jobs but totally suck as a table saw. Only get one if that is your only solution because of space.
I have the Ridgid 10" table saw with the granite top. It's the best machine I've used for the money. Especially in cold areas. Never have to worry about cast iron tops
I had a Rigid and had to sell because of an interstate move. I'm with you. I loved it. Check Etsy for the throat plate. I have a Delta now (and regret it) but I have purchased throat plates there and they work great.
I like my worm drive Skilsaw table saw with stand. Cuts deeper than typical portable saws. And the worm drive really powers through thick or pressure treated wood. Has huge wheels which allow me to easily maneuver around job sites. Downside is that the wheels and frame are so big that I can't hide it under my pickup tonneau cover.
Bro Bear, A double thumbs up on the Grizzly Saws! I have a now-30 years-young Contractor saw from Grizzly model G1022 - 230 lb, Super heavy trunion, and have done professional cabinetmaking for 35 years now. As you say, for the price.. hard to beat! I even saved enough on the saw I bought to get the Biesmeyer T-Square 52" fence to go with! Would Love the SawStop; the boss says "No" after she read the price tag!! :) Definitely spot on about the vibration in the cheaper saws - started out with a unimotor driven Rockwell.. Grrr..
Link belts are a great and inexpensive upgrade. For one, they are more flexible than a solid belt. Secondly, they do not take “memory” in the rubber like a standard belt. When you leave your saw off for a day, week, month, the curve around the pulleys stays with the belt and they come around with a very slight resistance. Thump thump thump. So the linked belt is smoother. The other upgrade to make is to replace the stock pulleys with turned pulleys. Turned, good quality pulleys will be perfectly round and smooth compared to the forged pulleys that come with the saw. And then there are good blades x Ridge Carbide, Forrest and some Freud, for example. All very small improvements in tolerances, but at 3000-4000 RPM, under load, it adds up. And by the way, I can balance a nickel on edge on my 25+ year old Jet.
Insider info: metabo used to be hitachi. I was on the inventory team at lowes a couple years ago. Managers will often lower the price because of how dirt cheap that brand is for them. I remember the price of a drill was something like $80. Store cost? $17. So they had no problem knocking some of that money down. Bonus fact: which brand did they lose money on? Worx. They don't make a dime on those at all. Sold at cost a couple years ago.
@DensLight price fixing is definitely illegal, but it is what it is with these corporations. They can get away with murder. Look at GE. They pay zero taxes, and sell defective products. I paid $2k for a refrigerator that doesn't cool or freeze. Issues from day 1, and they wouldn't replace it. They sent out a repair guy 4 times. Now they're going to eventually pay a class action lawsuit for 20 million (might be 40, I don't remember), and it's a drop in the bucket for them. They got their money and will only pay back a few bucks compared to what they got for their inferior products.
I went to 3 Lowes before I found one that would price match the 299 price on the Metabo, happy and love the saw now if prices of wood would come down......
I have been using a grizzly contractor saw for 15+ years...with a few mods: balanced pulleys, segmented belt. Tuned the trundle alignment....balance a quarter on edge, turn it on and it hums. Will be moving up to a 3hp and will go with Grizzly for price, durability and quality.
I have been interested in the DeWalt saw because of the geared fence system. I am going to replace my great Bosch that I have had for mabey 10 years . The other comments give advice that the geared fence isn't really that great. So I learned something from them & from you! It seems to me that the two most important things are a great blade and an accurate, stable fence. then a riving knife. I have looked at the Sawstop contractor saw several times, and besides cost, the fence locking device seemed to be a problem in that it was iffy when locating the fence. Not a good thing! Went to a different store and found the same problem. Why is that fence lockdown different from the one on their larger saws? I have never read about anyone else noticing this. I have had kickback three times, two of them missed me. The contraption on my older Bosch makes things more, not less dangerous. I am very happy with my MJ splitters, they do the job. My plan is for a Laguna Fusion F2, if they ever become available again. The trunion discussion here helped too.
Red, your videos are always good but you made a quantum leap with this one, so comprehensive (defining, describing, instructing, options). Great research, analysis, and presentation. You are one awesome bear 🐻!
For an outfeed stand I like the ridgid flat top stands. It has a pin that can make it flat and not flap down or it can lever down to more easily receive a work piece. Are they better than a roller stand? Does a bear shit in the woods?
Mag base dial indicator does not work so well on an aluminum table (like the cheaper/job site saws), right? Or is there some magnetic thing on them anyway? (Can you do anything useful by attaching to the blade?)
If you can afford a jet or powermatic and never plan on moving it they really are the Cadillacs, as far as jobsite saws I'm rather parshal to the Bosch for trim as far as rough framing or siding especially Hardie board I just get the cheapest pos I can find because they are basically guaranteed to get trashed not just from use but rolling around in the job trailer and let's not forget rain and mud, I like that you actually acknowledge that what you need really depends what your doing
I actually have owned the "Finger Slicer 2000" from Harbor Freight for more than a decade and have done a plethora of projects, including a set of cabinets and shaker style doors, as well as shelves and wall hanging units. I can only imagine how much easier this would be with an actual table saw. I can certainly afford to upgrade (sadly not enough room for a cabinet saw) at this point and this video was incredibly informative. Thank you!! The accessories recommendations were great, too. I'm not sure the difference between the 2 magnetic tools (calibrator vs angle), but I'll be investigating those. And likely picking up a roller stand. I would be curious about drill presses, as I have the Harbor Freight version of that, as well.
Bear, I'd like to do a special mention here... I have my Grizzly Z Series 5hp cabinet saw that I love, but for portable saws I highly recommend the Ryobi BT3000/3100 series that was also sold by Sears. I have had both the Ryobi and Sears brands and no job site/portable saw can come close to the versatility, flexibility, and precision that the Ryobi BT3000 style saw can deliver. It comes on its own quick setup rolling stand; is set up with router table from the git-go; it can extend to comfortable handle big sheet good and its crosscut table is just miles ahead of everyone in this category. I see them on Craigslist for a song and a dance all the time and parts are readily available on ebay to keep them humming.
I’m a little late but if it’s useful to anyone I bought the Metabo contractor saw about a year ago as the winter sales were starting. Got it for $350 delivered. I use it in a fixed location more or less as I’m a DiYer / build some furniture for friends and family. It gets used almost daily. Pros: it’s slightly heavier than it’s counterparts but if you’re using it in a shop this is a good thing. It’s a powerful motor. It ripped 3” HARD oak and with a good blade. It didn’t like it, but it did it. Minor burning. Use a thin kerf blade if you can. The fence system can be accurate but setting it up is a bit fiddly. Once you get it dailed you will be happy. The actual table top Is a few inches bigger than it’s counterparts and we all know a few inches MATTERS. I put a digital angle gauge and the wheel/adjustment is accurate. Cons: it might be the loudest saw in all of human history. Keep ears nearby my friends. Disregard what the manufacturer says about it’s 110v 15amp motor. Yes it’s a powerful motor which is good but my friend is an industrial electrician and he hooked it to a meter he had. When this saw is under load it’s pulling close to 20amp which I’m sure any home gamer knows will trip everything in your shop. At the very least run a good large gauge cord to it and keep it in its own outlet. That’s what I do. Also because of the draw I found those vacuum switches to be problematic, at least the cheap ones. The miter slots. Not going to lie the slots are okay but the miter tool for cross cutting that comes with it is garbage. It’s too thin and you get probably a 1/16 of slop and that too much when you need a precise crosscut. Go to Incra or wherever and get a decent crosscut miter. A negative that applies to every saw like this; Set the machine up then take the blade off and throw it at your neighbors. Replace with a higher end blade. It becomes a different tool. Long story a little longer if you want a contractor consumer saw for your hobby woodworking this saw is a beast. Just be prepared to put some time into dialing it in. Happy to answer questions. I ride this saw hard.
Like you Bear, I also have the 1st gen of the Lowe's Delta saw, the 2 issues I found with it are: 1) the factory dust collector does not work, I ended up pulling mine off the factory wheel base and building my own enclosed base with a pan connected to the dust collection hose. 2) the stock fence, well first off the tape measure on it is accurate at 2" from the blade and out almost 1/4" at 15" from the blade lol, I fixed this with a Kreg stick on tape measure over the top of the stock one. Outside of that, yes, it's a great saw for the money. Plan on selling mine soon and upgrading to a full cabinet like the unisaw or possibly the grizzly, haven't made up my mind yet.
I can't believe you're recommending the Delta. (I didn't know about the recall until right now.) I was cutting furring strips for 1 hour; smoked the motor. Have done the same thing on my job-site De Walt for hours without even overheating. But there were so many other problems -- the holes in the side extensions didn't line up right. The exhaust for vacuum connection ran into the leg when cutting at an angle. The throat plate was 1/16 of an inch thick metal - which flexed with the slightest pressure, tipping your work-piece into the blade. The top was warped by 1/8". So now it sits in the corner of my shop reminding me to never buy Delta anything.
There's also sliding cabinet saws, I forget the exact name. Basically the left side of the table moves forward on an internal slide set up and carries the wood past the blade. Featherboards: one thing you forgot to mention is that they help prevent kickback. If the wood starts to slide backwards those fingers push down and lock it in place. The segmented V belts are running smoother because regular V-belts will take a set when the tool is not running if you don't loosen the belt. I've been told they don't transmit as much torque as a regular V belt, but I have no proof of that.
Didn't expect to be so into woodworking these days, didnt expect to see someone use that animal filter to make a youtube tool review channel. But, it's good information so i'll bear with it.
Agreed. This year has simply been barbearic. I just can't seem to find my bearings.
same haah!
Well considering all things considered...
Bear in mind it was a good informative vid
Ahhhhh... haha.... ha..... ha
I have used a SawStop at work for years and last year I ran a finger into the blade. Still not sure exactly how I did that, but I was in a hurry. Never rush with a table saw. It did hurt, but the cut was minimal when you think about being hit by a 1/8" wide carbide tooth. I was happy to have the safety feature on that day.
Great saw, to bad its not available to those of us living in Europe
@@danthechippie4439 -- Do they give you a reason that it's not available in Europe?
@@g.v.harvey7425 I think it's for two reasons but I can't be sure
1 the arbour can accommodate a dado stack and I think in a commercial workshop they are illegal but not in a private workshop
2. I think it's a power issue in that European power is not powerful enough to run the saw but again they are only educated guess
@@danthechippie4439 Europe uses 220 volts. Everyone in the US who uses any power tool with anything over 1 1/2hp runs their tools on 220 volts that is available in every house and business. The only difference between US and European 220 volts is US is 60 hertz and Europe is 50 hertz so there is no issue with power. I suspect that SawStop hasn't gotten into Europe yet is that they are not ready to deal with the distribution and parts/warranty aspect of it. As far as the Dado issue, if and when SawStop decides to sell in Europe, all they will have to do is make a European spec saw with a shorter arbor so you cannot bolt on a Dado head.
How many teeth do you think hit you before it stopped?
I've been woodworking for the better part of 50 years and have been lucky in having two accidents on my table saws. When I had my second accident earlier this year which required 15 stitches over 3 fingers my better half said that I needed to get something safer than my early 50's Delta Homecraft saw that was nearly as old as I am or she would sell ALL my tools. I felt that a bit drastic but I respected her concern for me to keep all ten of my fingers and I purchased a SawStop 3HP PCS saw. It was the best move I ever made. The saw is a very well made piece of equipment. They are called accidents not on-purposes for a reason. Another thing is CRC 3-36 is a great rust inhibitor followed up with Johnson's paste wax.
P9
I have the jobsite Skil Saw as it was the only one available for pickup close by when I desperately needed one at the beginning of the pandemic. I love that thing, the worm drive makes cutting large stock a breeze. I've built a heavy cabinet around it with fold-up back and side tables and now can safely rip full size sheets. I even use it to cut 2x4's into 1x4's in one step to get cheap boards 😉
Even with this video being 3 years old, it is one of the best overviews and introduction to saw types and saw accessories for the homeowner and DIYer. Well worth watching.
When I first got into woodworking I found a decent Delta/Rockwell 34-338 on CL for $75. I spent plenty of time disassembling, cleaning the machine, and updating wear parts (rebuilt arbor assembly with new bearings, wave washer, bushings etc.). I spent alot of time learning how the machine works and aligning and "tuning" it while going through this process. A PALS system makes fine tuning a contractor saw much easier. I bought and mounted the 30" delta t3 fence, a link belt for the original 1.5 motor, relocated the power switch, and retained the factory splitter/knife. These updates and upgrades along with a good freud blade make for a wonderfully accurate and stable saw. Does it compare with a uni saw or other full size cabinet saws? Of course not, but the knowledge and understanding gained through the process is invaluable to me. I know much more about a future purchase now. Financially, it's not too bad even with the upgrades and blade. So, IMO quality contractor saw ate great options. Just be prepared to put money into upgrades and time into refurb.
I just picked up the 10inch Kobalt table saw with rolling/collapsible stand for $229. It's a solid saw for DIY/home owner use. I love the extendable table top and how compact it collapses to. Perfect for my small garage.
I got one for the same price a week ago and I'm loving it so far! 😉
Just save your receipt. Had two that fell apart.
Love the bear filter! Well produced video. Now I realize this is several years old by now but same ideas still apply. I too am a huge fan of the Delta saw. Bought a used one 48 years ago when I had a cabinet shop. Then when I started my machine shop I kept it for odds and ends. After several years we landed a great customer who we made parts for from slabs of 2 inch thick 2 foot by 4 foot PVC and ABS. We still use that saw today to cut them to sizes needed. Obviously we need a special type of carbide tipped blade, but that thing still runs strong. Now being retired I have a garage shop. More metal working however still almost all the wood working machines as well. After a lot of research I bought the Skill saw. For the money I couldn’t be happier. Made a small sled and bought a decent miter gauge and away we go. Evolution makes one that can cut various materials too. They have a great universal blade but it does run at a slower RPM to accomplish cutting non ferrous metals and plastics. They have a really nice new model however it’s not available in the USA yet. The one you can purchase on Amazon is still ok but I would have preferred the new one. It actually has a small sliding table on the left. Some of the best saws made for commercial use have sliding tables. This although no where near as accurate is still a great feature for a home shop. Enjoyed the video 👍🏼👍🏼
Serendipitous timing on this video. I had just finished the epoxy flooring in my shop, the final step of the "build from scratch" process, before the finish carpentry, and it was time to start looking for a table saw. I got the Delta 10in on your assertion. I'm in love. Thank you for the A+ advice.
Serendipitous or your phone heard you talking about table saws or you googled them?
@Ian9toes No, I'm subscribed to the Den, and watch almost every upload. I saw this video the day it was uploaded. It went live with serendipitous timing.
One of the most comprehensive and educational information about must haves for table saws and accessories. Nice job!
Wow, what a wealth of information. I just used an old Montgomery Wards table saw to do wood flooring and wood stairs. Oh how I wish had spend the money before starting the job and got a good accurate table saw. I had to manual make the fence parallel every time!!! I'm a casual home DIY'er, so I think I'm gonna go with the Skil TS6307-00 I love the fold out legs, rack and pinion fence and PRICE! Thank you so much for posting this video.
I have the Skilsaw worm drive portable saw with stand. The stand is great and it’s easy to move, fold, and unfold. The motor is good and no shortage of power for a small saw.
I had that new Delta 36-725T2 and you are right, it died super quick. Two of them in fact, as they bother were one of the very first ones. Delta customer service was on the spot with the second one and helped troubleshoot the problem. They drop shipped me a fixed version and paid to have the old one sent back for their R&D. Sold me on Delta.
INCREDIBLE CONTENT TONIGHT! I realize it takes way more time to create than it does to watch it. This is extremely pertinent to me. I am debating spending boat loads of money on a cabinet table saw and electrician in a suburban house not worth that. But also an owner of a late-90s Ryobi table saw; that my over decade experience tells me that it doesn't work for all the use cases I have. I am switching to Track Saws for cutting down sheet goods but want a very accurate table saw for the rest. You have constantly called out the insanity of this market segment and the real need. You rock! Track saws for the big sheet goods and table saws for all the other versatility.
I just upgraded from a shite old craftsman "job site" saw to the Delta 36-725t2 that Red recommends at 11:19 (on his recommendation) and it is phenomenal. I recommend looking at it seriously.
My man, watching you talk about table saws as a bear put me in a great mood this morning
I have had a Bosch 4100 saw for the last 6 months and love it! It folds for storage and has wheels to transport! Makes very accurate cuts as well!
Thanks for a very in depth and helpful video. Just the right approach and comparisons, avoiding the “apples and oranges” approach of other channels.
Personal experience! I've been in the cabinet industry for 40 years and the staple saws if yester-years were the delta unisaw or a powermatic 66. But since both of these companies have been bought out by foreign companies the quality has suffered. They are relying on the name to carry the weight. We had a powermatic 66 that was a money pit! We probably replace the starter switch no less then 3 or 4 times, motors about the same and the last time we'd had enough. We broke down and bought a new delta unisaw which within a matter of 2 months the arbor nut stripped out. Now let me tell you this, to pay $3k for a saw is a real investment and it's nothing more that a boat anchor because of a arbor nut!
What happen is the shoulder of the arbor, where the blade rests wasn't machined properly. The blade that came with the saw fit fine, but all of our other blades it was so tight the in tightening down the blade was the only way to get it on that shoulder which in return stripped the nut. Now this may now of happened if the threads of both the arbor and nut were so shallow, it was more like slight ribbing instead of threads.
And to add to the pain, the saw came with a spare nut, but with 15 guys in the shop the nut got lost.
Try to find an after market nut is like finding the Holy Grail! Saw worked great, when it worked.
So my suggestion is, if your in the market, research the crap out of after market and warrantied parts before your purchase! Make sure they're available and get a couple spares! Good luck!
Yup....that seems to be a theme with ALL of these companies. They build a name, then either start getting greedy, or sell the company to the Chinese, and then the products turn to sh*t. And, to my knowledge, short of trying to buy something used, and well-taken care of, from "yester-year", or spending 4x's the amount intended for something made in either Japan, or U.S.A. Buying a typical big-box store saw, seems to be a guarantee's disposable purchase, at some point, unfortunately. I don't know of a practical solution to this seemingly universal issue.
Been using that Grizzly since 2015. Just about the time there was talk about mandating the sawstop. I bought the Grizzly to avoid a mandate. It’s been terrific. You’re absolutely correct
I’ve had my Grizzly 1023 for ten years and love it.
One thing that makes true cabinet saws great is that adjusting the blade parallelism is a piece of cake compared to any saw that mounts the trunions to the table top.
I’ve had my Grizzly G1023Z more then 20 years, with the Shop-Fox super fence its a fantastic saw.
I paid big bucks years ago (25 at least) for a super Craftsman Heavy Duty model -everything about it was amazing except…..wait for it- the trunions were off and I hammered on them and they wouldn’t/couldn’t move at all. I drove it back to the store after making many long calls and demonstrated what the problem was. Craftsman wouldn’t replace it or let me return it. Yeah my brothers I’m serious …and this was back when they’d replace any broken tool but not my saw. They thought it worked fine and my expectations for its straight cutting was unrealistic! Ahahahahahahamuhahaha! Last time I bought anything from Craftsman.
I have one. Paid $700 new. That's how old it is. Did put a better motor in it but still on the same bearings.
To bad the price on them now has doubled
@@firefighter9901 - I had no idea. I sold the saw this past summer because I was moving. I set what, I thought, was a fair market price. It sold quickly. It wasn’t until I got the new Grizzly catalog that I realized what a bargain the purchaser got. I’m happy with it because the buyer seemed to be a nice young guy starting out and I got the feeling that he would get lot of good use out of the saw.
Hi, would that Grizzly V belt upgrade you recommend at 36:10 also work for a drill press motor? Maybe not that exact one but like that same style?
Yes
Highly recommend a track for a guide for ripping long sheets. Game changer. Easier to move a small saw vs a 50# sheet of plywood
Having a track saw has definitely changed the way I cut plywood. Now i make cuts that look like the factory edge and takes less time!
My table saw was set up to cut sheet goods but it takes up a lot of space I no longer have. I now use a circular saw freehand and touch it up with a hand plane if needed.
I just bought the Delta 725 T2 and after i started seeing they where having motor problems. After your video i feel maybe a little better about them fixing the problem. i have attached my Kobalt router table/router to it and absolutely love it saves so much space and use the saw fence with it awesome.
If you use your table saw for cutting sausages, SawStop is not the saw for you
😆😆😆😆😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
Craigslist
You can’t cut foil covered insulation either. Someone at a club I belonged to leaned an expensive lesson
@@cmk8477 actually, you can cut foil covered insulation and even pressure treated lumber.
RTFM. Read The Manual. It tells you how. Ever wonder what the brass key is for next to the on/off paddle?
@Jim W, Truthfully I personally have a 1950’s - 60’s vintage delta contractor saw with an incra fence that has been modified more times than I can shake a push stick at. I just heard about it through some talk at a club I used to belong to. I am an old school guy that has learned a table saw is for ripping real wood and maybe a sheet or six of cabinet grade plywood. For the most part I use the miter saw for cross cuts and a router for dados. The saw stop is a totally foreign concept to me as far as the mechanism that yanks the blade into the table. I can’t imagine what kind of torque that must put on the shaft to stop in an instant like that.
I have my grandfather's Craftsman table saw. It was made in 1951, has a heavy cast iron top and wings, belt driven and still runs very smooth. Sometime in the near future I plan on tearing it down and giving it a good clean up & lube job. I also bought a new Shop Fox fence for it.
where did you buy a shop Fox fence? I have a Craftsman saw also and the fence is not very good
Why was in school we had a woodworking shop that used in Delta Rockwell from the 1970s, and to get around the fact that the table saw didn't have a riving knife the instructor used a block of wood to push the other pieces through wile covering his hands from the kickback from the blade. It acted as a stopper, because in the slotted area of the table he had a piece of wood, while the block actually had a groove to fit into the slotted area to make contact with the other piece of wood, or at least that's what I remember. He built the piece of wood to protect from the table saw because it didn't have a riving knife. It's kind of simple DYI to get around the kickback from the table saw not having a riving knife by just using a block of wood push the other piece of wood through the saw.
The Craftsman I bought in 1969 is still making sawdust in my son's garage. The link belt runs "smoother" because it decouples the frequency modes that make a stiff normal V belt whip up and down between the pulleys. I rigged a pulley type of belt tensioner on that Craftsman to take out that bouncing.
A screen for the Delta Unisaw showed an option for a 1.5 HP motor. I clicked on the Unisaw link in the description. That option does not show. Can you repost the link that showed that option. Now, I bought a Harvey 2HP 36” cabinet saw. I wanted to compare between my Harvey and the Unisaw.
I love my Bosch jobsite table saw it’s fantastic zero issues runs flawlessly no vibration and perfect for ripping doors and doing commercial flooring to just ripping 3x12 white oak dried for trailer floors
Been watching a lot of DOT vids lately and this is like the 3rd or 4th I've came across that he highly recommends the Delta 725t2. I am in the market for a table saw and while I can afford the $2500 overkill table saws 1) I don't want to commit that kind of money to a single tool....... when I can easily use that money for my other hobby - weightlifting and powerlifting, and 2) My garage is only so big, haha. Between my two hobbies - weekend woodworking/tinkering and lifting weights space is a premium in my garage ESPECIALLY seeing as I am a FIRM believer that garages are meant for cars and I refuse to park my personal car in the driveway exposed to the elements when I have a perfectly fine 2.5 car garage. That said, like in other videos he says that Delta has acknowledged the issue with the motors on the 725t2. I'm looking on Lowes' website and the 5100t2 is also intriguing. It only has 2 reviews though..... both 1 star and both lamenting about a shitty motor. So was this motor issue brand-wide? Can anyone find an article or anything really of Delta announcing a recall like DOT says every time he recommends the brand's table saws? I've been searching for anything that says they definitively recalled or at least corrected the issue. I even went on their facebook page and searched for "motor issues" and "recall" and both came up with nothing.
It's a real enticing saw..... either the 725t2 or the 5100t2. I've watched other vids on here actually reviewing the 725 (not so much on the 5100t2..... no love for that saw I guess) and most give it glowing reviews and much praise. But...... most of those reviews were from like May-June of this year...... which lines up with the timeframe a bunch of the negative reviews for both saws on Lowes say they had crippling motor issues. So...... yeah. Is this product line officially fixed? I phrase it that way because again the 5100t2's two reviews lament about the motor as well.
Why do these saws interest me more than say the equally priced straight up jobsite saw from Delta, 7491RS? Because from I've been told and what I can tell from videos (never owned a table saw... used them before - but never owned one. Have gotten by with a straightedge for cross cutting and ripping with my circ. saw) jobsite table saws are LOUD AS FUCK!!! I don't talk to either of my neighbors but I don't want to be "that guy" next door. The one video compared their new 725t2 to his old Ridgid jobsite saw. The Ridgid logged over 100 dbs. Thats the equivalent of a jet flyover at 1,000 feet..... or a fucking jackhammer. The delta 725t2 (and I assume the 5100t2 as well)..... like 88 dbs when he put a new diablo blade on it. That's the equivalent of a food blender or slightly louder than a garbage disposal. So...... a jackhammer..... or a garbage disposal. My neighbors and more importantly my ears will much prefer the 88 or so dbs than the 100+. That..... and like shown here - the Deltas pass the nickel test. No jobsite saw will accomplish that.
So yeah.... any official news via Delta social media or any article confirming they acknowledged the issue and at least fixed it let alone a recall like DOT says here? I've found nothing.
Thank You for your time to educate people like me. You are a good human being doing that. Bless You brother. Bravo .
You need to check out the Harvey Alpha line. Love mine and the cross cut fence is amazing. For me, it was between the Powermatic PCS and the Harvey. Went with the Harvey Alpha. It has been a dream to use.
Can that Delta from lowes be modified for better dust collection? Can it rip hardwoods with a better diablo blade?
Great Video Bear, always enjoy them. I am 64 years old and have been a remodeling contractor for over 40 years. I have had 10 table saws through my life time and still have 9 of them. I bought a Contractor SawStop saw along with building a Ron Paulk bench for my shop a couple of years ago. I know it was a lot of money but the older I get the more I keep thinking I might make a stupid mistake. I am glad I didn't buy the Bosch Saw back then because it soon got discontinued. I really do like the SawStop and would buy one again.
I'm a big Menards guy, most my big tools like table saw, miter saw, and also skill saw. never had a problems with them but would like your all thought about there tools.
I cant believe that after a couple of minutes, I'm listening carefully to a talking bear just like its totally normal.....I dont know who you are Yogi but you just earn my subscription.
If saw stop was really thinking they would sell retrofit kits for other brands. They could keep their patents in their own hands and still profit off making other people saws safer
That would be cost prohibitive. You'd be paying around $1k or more for the retrofit kit. I'm sure they thought of that first and it cost less to manufacture their own saw than attempt to engineer a retrofit system for an existing saw and make it cost substantially less than the saw you're retrofitting.
@@RobertBarth1 where there is a will. There is a way. With regard to liability, there are waivers, exclusions, etc etc. Have certified installation techs be a thing.
I doubt many other brands trunnions could take the instant torque load of the blade and assembly coming to a near instant stop and slamming beneath the table.
So many negative Nancy's. Where there is a will, there's a way. Necessity it the mother of invention. Remeber the Alamo and don't take any wooden nickels! If space x can land (or crash) a rocket on a dime, and a guy in his basement can make a gunpowder powered baseball bat, surely a properly motivated engineer could develop a modular sawstop retrofit kit. #youjustgottabelieve
@@RealWolfmanDan no one is being negative, just realistic. Of course you "could" make just about anything happen, but this instance is not practical whatsoever for the reasons these people have listed. By the time you could get a retrofit on it would cost the same price as a Sawstop, so that would be silly. and saw stop has no interest in doing it because of the legal ramifications that would very likely put them out of business within a lawsuit or two.
I’ve been a part time woodworker for years depending on need. But the bug has hit and your video is timely as I am looking to upgrade my Ryobi folding leg table saw. Nothing particularly wrong with it but there’s no slots in the bed. My impression is it’s contractor style and not well adapted for finer woodworking. Thanks for the info! See you over on FB.
I love my gripper push blocks. Highly recommend.
DIY, my Wife just bought my Son in Law and me each a Grrripper! WOW! After using it I’m wondering how I ever got by without out it. Now I need a 2nd one.
To others viewing this post:
Get one, if you don’t have one. They make a less technical model for under $30. You can order it on Amazon, it’ll be well worth it!!
Fantastic video. I bought a Delta 36-725t2 table saw after learning more about it on your channel and I LOVE IT. I've heard "Glidecote" (Glidecoat?) is the gold standard for table saw top lube, but haven't tried it yet. It's $$. I started w/ Ridgid jobsite saw w/ scissor stand (264.00) and though I loved the soft start and brake features, the table was warped and fance sucked. Returned it in favor of the Delta.
I shipped a Dewalt DW743 from the UK to Canada which was a tool originally made by Elu prior to being taken over by Dewalt. It is 18 years old and works great when I need a site tool. Shop saw i use is the Delta hybrid saw which would suit most home woodworkers.
I started with a jobsite saw two years ago and want to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Best for the money? Is Saw Stop worth the money?
I really enjoy your humor. I watched this video twice. Once for the info and then a day later today for entertainment. Really good. Greetings from BC :- )
I was stuck on dewalt now I can expand my search, thanks for this video.
Also grabbed the metabo saw , got it $329 but seen it went down to $299 on black friday and the following weekend so I brought my receipt into Lowes and they gave me back the $30 difference in cash !! Also its a great saw, the fence is a dream compared to my old Makita table saw that was probably 20 years old! The blade is a 10 inch Metabo and gotta say is actually a quality blade !!
Because of your recommendation on the Delta saw I bought it and love it. Thank you tool bear.
whats the model of that ridgid contractors first saw you said to buy..
LOVE the Delta. Mines the original one. Did they ever come out with a Dado insert for it?
So is the recommendation the Unisaw or a SawStop?
the best review video ever see … how you don't have a millions followers . thank you ..
Thanks Da Bear, very nice video!
To those reading this post...if you don’t have a Grrripper, then you should get one or even two. You can order a less technical version for under $30.00.
Ridgid makes an adjustable support stand for around $33.00. It’s not a roller Tempe, it has a tilting head that’s adjustable. I like mine. In fact I like it so much I might get a 2nd one for side support usage, e.g. running a 4x8 sheet across the saw.
For just ripping pine I have the cheap ryobi portable saw that I paid $100 for a few years ago. It struggles to cut thick green treat but for ripping 1x and 2x pine it works great and is light. It is so light it can be tough to rip wood if the saw isn't screwed down to something.
A Year Ago I Got Me A Ryobi 10 Inch
Brushless Cordless Miter Saw
& It Works Just Great. I Can
Use It Anywear I Want. No
Looking For An Outlet To Plug
It Into. I Was Looking At A 81/4
Inch Brushles Cordless Table Saw.
Cordless Brushlesd IPowertools Is The Best Way To
Go. Cause The Brushles
Motors Last Way Longer
Then Brushed Motors Do.
On The Other Hand Brushed
Motors Need Theire Brushes
Replaced Ever 2 To 3 Years.
Most Of All My Cordless
Powertools Are Brushless.
I'm Glad I Have Brushless
Cordless Powertools.
Dado Blade - I have the Rigid jobsite saw (which I really like) and the manual recommendation is to use a 6" blade stack, so I got the Freud 6" stack. I have a VERY small shop, so I also have a rolling cart that my saw sits in (no scissor legs) with surface left and behind the blade to support any work piece that can fold down for storage. Everything is stable and works great.
I also (when I had a much larger shop) upgraded to an Incra miter gauge and kept it when I sold everything else (just in case...). The Ridgid saw has a standard miter slot so the Incra slides right in and has greatly improved my accuracy.
I bought probably one of the last Rockwell Unisaws back in 1984 with the sliding table and long guide bars that allow 50" rips with the Jet Lock rip fence. I now use the Unifence which is far superior to any fence I've ever seen or used. For site work I use an old Makita 2711 table saw. (For ripping only) It has a 24" rip capacity and a very accurate fence. Cross cuts are with a sliding compound miter saw or circular saw. I've been a woodworker since 1977 and thankfully, still have all my digits.
If you want a cabinet saw and don't feel the need for a SawStop, I can recommend the Grizzly G1023 series. I have the G1023RLW for 18 months now. In terms of performance, it's every bit as good as the saws that are 2-3x the price.
I've worked on much more expensive saws and frankly, the differences are neglible.
Best safety upgrade for any saw with a T Fence, the Jessem stock guides. Best thing about these is how they eliminate fence deflection because they're mounted to the fence itself.
Powermatic 66 here. Bought in 96 for $2100, still going strong and no regrets. It really is a lifelong investment.
I’ve found the ball bearing style roller stands work the best. They are not as picky about alignment in the direction of movement of the board. The long roller if not align correctly will actually pull the board off your line.
Picked up the Metabo recently and very happy with it.
Ditto. I’m a diyer but man it’s a great saw
@@MGJDMNJ Same great time easily worth the list price but @$320 ish complete steal
C10RJSM for $320.53 out the door.
i can’t find it for less than $600 :((
@@alterworks7212 yeah sale is over sadly
What do you think is a better jobsite table saw Bosch or Metabo.
The Skilsaw worm drive jobsite table saw is the absolute best multipurpose saw I have ever used in my 20years. After 2 years every day in the field it does not disappoint
What about Powermatic they make a great table saw.
Yup. Forgot the "Gold Standard" My PM66 is a champ! Not sure about the current model.
I'm also interested in Powermatic as an eventual upgrade candidate
@@misfit4777 The US made Powermatic 66 is no longer in production. It was replaced by the PM100, 2000 and 3000 all of which are imports to Powermatic standards. The same goes for the Delta if I am correct and according to their info. The PM66 is really beefy and meant to last a lifetime. You can even still find them once in a while is the old green color and still going.
I went Saw Stop for my Table Saw but have Powermatic’s PM1500 bandsaw and their dust collector. They are made overseas now but still seem to have the quality. Fit, finish and operation is very good, time will tell on durability. My band saw is only about a year old so we will see. Hope to get their 8” Joiner and 15” planner. We had a large woodworking and Industrial arts program at my high school in the 70’s. Our Delta equipment was then good but the Powermatic King! Was then US made if memory correct but then most things were.
@@dougshomeshop3056 I have the PM2800B drillpress which is made in China also. The module went out after three years but Powermatic sent me a new one free of charge. Also have the PM 209HH planer for the past 15 years with no issues. Overall, very satisfied. Have Grizzly, Delta, Rikon,, and Jet tools also but my favorite brand is.... wait for it................ Festool.
Biesemeyer, from my understanding, was bought out by Delta. I've tried to buy a Biesemeyer fence with no luck. NO ONE carries them any longer. I ended up buying a Saw stop 52" fence assembly instead. I'm very happy that I did.
I haven't used it yet but I have the compact skil saw 8 1/4 worm drive saw. And it's pretty solid. It's 90% metal.
I have a 1953 Delta Homecraft 8” tablesaw. Runs like a champ and is great for my tiny garage shop. I run 8” blades and a 6” dado stack on it. I built a biesemeyer style fence for it to replace the original solid but finicky fence
I have the T1 version of the Delta hybrid and it's bad ass. Best saw I have used in the price range!
Learned something new today. I always thought my grandfather's Unisaw cabinet saw was named due to it being a good saw used for building cabinets, not that the saw mechanism was mounted to the base cabinet. Great info!
Like a lot of people that have a Delta 36-725 T2 I am worried about the motor, especially when you see the replacement part exceeds the value of the saw! Have you seen a more reasonable supply of parts OR some way of modifying this saw to use a belt rather than the direct drive. I had an old Craftsman 20 years ago that was great. Simple, direct, and always did the job so I'm thinking there should be a system or harness that mounts the motor & belt drive outside the cabinet. I'm probably dreaming but I figured if there is one person out there that could come up with an answer it would be you. Thanks for taking the time to answer.
About a year and a half ago I bought a SawStop jobsite saw. I had to buy a jobsite table saw I need to wheel it out of the garage to use any of my tools (drill press, miter saw, table saw, etc). Having listened to this video can you recommend a good straight 10” blade for the jobsite table saw instead of using a dado stack? Thanks
What is your opinion of Laguna , I am looking at the F2 ?, it's a little cheaper than the saw stop .
Good video. I inherited a vintage near-perfect 1968/69 Craftsman 113 series from my dad, added 2 extra 12" extensions (with the original 10") and a 15" router table (all cast iron), as well as upgraded the fence to a Delta T3. It weighs a ton, but that is good IMHO, as I do not need to move it often. It does not move when used and vibrations are minimal. It can do 36" rip cuts on the right side & ~30" on the left and handles large sleds with no issue. I'd like to upgrade the motor to a 3 horse (220V) down the road. My upgrade investment was just under $400 total, it does not have any plastic on it and built in USA.
Do you have anything on Harvey tools?
Ive ran that Craftsman table saw with a dado stack on white oak 1/2 inch deep without a single hiccup. Never had it bog down and have used it hundreds of times ripping 2x4 lumber.
I have an 80s craftsman dont know if it qualified as a cabinet saw but I can take the table off without removing the blade assembly Love it to death, pretty smooth but unfortunately it does not have a riving knife and I got a pretty bad kickback a few months ago and it was gnarly the only other thing that sucks is the fence is a little finicky. its a good fence but the mating surface is round tubing not square so when its tightened down it doesn't putt itself into square. Also it was free
i have owned 3 Unisaws, a powermatic 66 and just purchased a PCS Saw Stop, the SS is on par with the Unisaw and PW, i loved all of them, but the SS does have some nice features other than the safety features. they are extremely easy to make adjustments to the table and the fence...all great saws and i am a huge Delta fan, i have many of their machines and am happy with all of them.
In what order should you buy tools
At one time I considered getting a Shopsmith due to space constraints. But I never popped on it because the table saw just seemed to small and unstable. What are your thoughts. Does it have its place in a small shop? Or should I stay away from it?
I've had two that I fully restored myself. Fun projects but to answer your question no. They make a great drill press and are ok at a few other jobs but totally suck as a table saw. Only get one if that is your only solution because of space.
I have the Ridgid 10" table saw with the granite top. It's the best machine I've used for the money. Especially in cold areas. Never have to worry about cast iron tops
I have the Ridgid R4518 and love it with the exception of trying to find an OEM Zero Clearance Throatplate.
I had a Rigid and had to sell because of an interstate move. I'm with you. I loved it. Check Etsy for the throat plate. I have a Delta now (and regret it) but I have purchased throat plates there and they work great.
Great saw. Love mine.
You can make your own zero clearance plates. Pretty easily too. Many videos
the minwax link goes to the v belt. can that be fixed?
I like my worm drive Skilsaw table saw with stand. Cuts deeper than typical portable saws. And the worm drive really powers through thick or pressure treated wood. Has huge wheels which allow me to easily maneuver around job sites. Downside is that the wheels and frame are so big that I can't hide it under my pickup tonneau cover.
So do I even imported it to England so I could use my dado stack from a saw that died a old hitachi
Bro Bear, A double thumbs up on the Grizzly Saws! I have a now-30 years-young Contractor saw from Grizzly model G1022 - 230 lb, Super heavy trunion, and have done professional cabinetmaking for 35 years now. As you say, for the price.. hard to beat! I even saved enough on the saw I bought to get the Biesmeyer T-Square 52" fence to go with! Would Love the SawStop; the boss says "No" after she read the price tag!! :) Definitely spot on about the vibration in the cheaper saws - started out with a unimotor driven Rockwell.. Grrr..
Link belts are a great and inexpensive upgrade. For one, they are more flexible than a solid belt. Secondly, they do not take “memory” in the rubber like a standard belt. When you leave your saw off for a day, week, month, the curve around the pulleys stays with the belt and they come around with a very slight resistance. Thump thump thump. So the linked belt is smoother. The other upgrade to make is to replace the stock pulleys with turned pulleys. Turned, good quality pulleys will be perfectly round and smooth compared to the forged pulleys that come with the saw. And then there are good blades x Ridge Carbide, Forrest and some Freud, for example. All very small improvements in tolerances, but at 3000-4000 RPM, under load, it adds up. And by the way, I can balance a nickel on edge on my 25+ year old Jet.
Insider info: metabo used to be hitachi. I was on the inventory team at lowes a couple years ago. Managers will often lower the price because of how dirt cheap that brand is for them. I remember the price of a drill was something like $80. Store cost? $17. So they had no problem knocking some of that money down. Bonus fact: which brand did they lose money on? Worx. They don't make a dime on those at all. Sold at cost a couple years ago.
@DensLight price fixing is definitely illegal, but it is what it is with these corporations. They can get away with murder. Look at GE. They pay zero taxes, and sell defective products. I paid $2k for a refrigerator that doesn't cool or freeze. Issues from day 1, and they wouldn't replace it. They sent out a repair guy 4 times. Now they're going to eventually pay a class action lawsuit for 20 million (might be 40, I don't remember), and it's a drop in the bucket for them. They got their money and will only pay back a few bucks compared to what they got for their inferior products.
I went to 3 Lowes before I found one that would price match the 299 price on the Metabo, happy and love the saw now if prices of wood would come down......
I haven't checked, but the FB group was just bragging about lumber prices dropping. Not back to pre-Covid but much lower.
After buying some fir 2x12s I wonder if the mill saw bands use gold or platinum teeth.🤣
I have been using a grizzly contractor saw for 15+ years...with a few mods: balanced pulleys, segmented belt. Tuned the trundle alignment....balance a quarter on edge, turn it on and it hums. Will be moving up to a 3hp and will go with Grizzly for price, durability and quality.
I have been interested in the DeWalt saw because of the geared fence system. I am going to replace my great Bosch that I have had for mabey 10 years . The other comments give advice that the geared fence isn't really that great. So I learned something from them & from you! It seems to me that the two most important things are a great blade and an accurate, stable fence. then a riving knife. I have looked at the Sawstop contractor saw several times, and besides cost, the fence locking device seemed to be a problem in that it was iffy when locating the fence. Not a good thing! Went to a different store and found the same problem. Why is that fence lockdown different from the one on their larger saws? I have never read about anyone else noticing this. I have had kickback three times, two of them missed me. The contraption on my older Bosch makes things more, not less dangerous. I am very happy with my MJ splitters, they do the job. My plan is for a Laguna Fusion F2, if they ever become available again. The trunion discussion here helped too.
Red, your videos are always good but you made a quantum leap with this one, so comprehensive (defining, describing, instructing, options). Great research, analysis, and presentation. You are one awesome bear 🐻!
Can you please comment on Incra LS fences?
What do you think about the harvey ALPHA HW110LC-36P
For an outfeed stand I like the ridgid flat top stands. It has a pin that can make it flat and not flap down or it can lever down to more easily receive a work piece. Are they better than a roller stand? Does a bear shit in the woods?
Mag base dial indicator does not work so well on an aluminum table (like the cheaper/job site saws), right? Or is there some magnetic thing on them anyway? (Can you do anything useful by attaching to the blade?)
If you can afford a jet or powermatic and never plan on moving it they really are the Cadillacs, as far as jobsite saws I'm rather parshal to the Bosch for trim as far as rough framing or siding especially Hardie board I just get the cheapest pos I can find because they are basically guaranteed to get trashed not just from use but rolling around in the job trailer and let's not forget rain and mud, I like that you actually acknowledge that what you need really depends what your doing
I actually have owned the "Finger Slicer 2000" from Harbor Freight for more than a decade and have done a plethora of projects, including a set of cabinets and shaker style doors, as well as shelves and wall hanging units. I can only imagine how much easier this would be with an actual table saw. I can certainly afford to upgrade (sadly not enough room for a cabinet saw) at this point and this video was incredibly informative. Thank you!!
The accessories recommendations were great, too. I'm not sure the difference between the 2 magnetic tools (calibrator vs angle), but I'll be investigating those. And likely picking up a roller stand.
I would be curious about drill presses, as I have the Harbor Freight version of that, as well.
Bear, I'd like to do a special mention here... I have my Grizzly Z Series 5hp cabinet saw that I love, but for portable saws I highly recommend the Ryobi BT3000/3100 series that was also sold by Sears. I have had both the Ryobi and Sears brands and no job site/portable saw can come close to the versatility, flexibility, and precision that the Ryobi BT3000 style saw can deliver. It comes on its own quick setup rolling stand; is set up with router table from the git-go; it can extend to comfortable handle big sheet good and its crosscut table is just miles ahead of everyone in this category. I see them on Craigslist for a song and a dance all the time and parts are readily available on ebay to keep them humming.
I’m a little late but if it’s useful to anyone I bought the Metabo contractor saw about a year ago as the winter sales were starting. Got it for $350 delivered. I use it in a fixed location more or less as I’m a DiYer / build some furniture for friends and family. It gets used almost daily.
Pros: it’s slightly heavier than it’s counterparts but if you’re using it in a shop this is a good thing.
It’s a powerful motor. It ripped 3” HARD oak and with a good blade. It didn’t like it, but it did it. Minor burning. Use a thin kerf blade if you can.
The fence system can be accurate but setting it up is a bit fiddly. Once you get it dailed you will be happy.
The actual table top Is a few inches bigger than it’s counterparts and we all know a few inches MATTERS.
I put a digital angle gauge and the wheel/adjustment is accurate.
Cons: it might be the loudest saw in all of human history. Keep ears nearby my friends.
Disregard what the manufacturer says about it’s 110v 15amp motor. Yes it’s a powerful motor which is good but my friend is an industrial electrician and he hooked it to a meter he had. When this saw is under load it’s pulling close to 20amp which I’m sure any home gamer knows will trip everything in your shop. At the very least run a good large gauge cord to it and keep it in its own outlet. That’s what I do. Also because of the draw I found those vacuum switches to be problematic, at least the cheap ones.
The miter slots. Not going to lie the slots are okay but the miter tool for cross cutting that comes with it is garbage. It’s too thin and you get probably a 1/16 of slop and that too much when you need a precise crosscut. Go to Incra or wherever and get a decent crosscut miter.
A negative that applies to every saw like this; Set the machine up then take the blade off and throw it at your neighbors. Replace with a higher end blade. It becomes a different tool.
Long story a little longer if you want a contractor consumer saw for your hobby woodworking this saw is a beast. Just be prepared to put some time into dialing it in. Happy to answer questions. I ride this saw hard.
Like you Bear, I also have the 1st gen of the Lowe's Delta saw, the 2 issues I found with it are: 1) the factory dust collector does not work, I ended up pulling mine off the factory wheel base and building my own enclosed base with a pan connected to the dust collection hose. 2) the stock fence, well first off the tape measure on it is accurate at 2" from the blade and out almost 1/4" at 15" from the blade lol, I fixed this with a Kreg stick on tape measure over the top of the stock one. Outside of that, yes, it's a great saw for the money. Plan on selling mine soon and upgrading to a full cabinet like the unisaw or possibly the grizzly, haven't made up my mind yet.
I can't believe you're recommending the Delta. (I didn't know about the recall until right now.) I was cutting furring strips for 1 hour; smoked the motor. Have done the same thing on my job-site De Walt for hours without even overheating. But there were so many other problems -- the holes in the side extensions didn't line up right. The exhaust for vacuum connection ran into the leg when cutting at an angle. The throat plate was 1/16 of an inch thick metal - which flexed with the slightest pressure, tipping your work-piece into the blade. The top was warped by 1/8". So now it sits in the corner of my shop reminding me to never buy Delta anything.
Any recommendations on building a table around your compact saw so 4x8 rips/cuts are easier?
There's also sliding cabinet saws, I forget the exact name. Basically the left side of the table moves forward on an internal slide set up and carries the wood past the blade.
Featherboards: one thing you forgot to mention is that they help prevent kickback. If the wood starts to slide backwards those fingers push down and lock it in place.
The segmented V belts are running smoother because regular V-belts will take a set when the tool is not running if you don't loosen the belt. I've been told they don't transmit as much torque as a regular V belt, but I have no proof of that.