Recently parts I've bought online from Chinese vendors that were described as 3D printed were actually injection moulded. Sellers are discovering that 3D printing can be a positive selling point for some products. Like it signifies it was made by a fellow hobbyist at small scale.
I really don't get how this could be an argument for a product. 3d printing is fantastic for prototyping, but for a finished product injection molding is a lot better.
lol i cant see why that would be a positive thing. i like 3d printing and all but if you wanna sell me a mass produced object then 3d printing becomes a negative.
@@XxIcedecknightxX Non 3d printing hobbyists couldn't care less how it was made and 3D printers wouldn't buy something they can print. No one has really bought this product on the basis it was 3d printed this is all faux outrage at its worst.
@@backgammonbacon I disagree. It's mainly anecdotal but when I usually show models or prints to friends and family, they usually find it charming and find it more interesting than a conventional injection mold part. So they could be targeting the people that don't own a printer but have friends or family that do. If they're trying to market the idea that it's 3d printed and they're going that far to hide it then something is proving it to be beneficial for doing so.
Interesting, i guess saying something is 3D printed helps it sell? In my opinion 3D printing is amazing and you can get production quality products but i always think the layer lines look as if an item is a prototype.
yeah, such a weird thing to lie about... a rotational mould item is much more durable, won't melt in the car, more environmentally friendly, and generally a much nicer product than a huge PLA print would be
@@ollieb393 I assume compared to having a massive farm of heated printers running 24/7, you'd have less power draw, less maintenance of said printers and potential failures etc when you can simply heat and spin the reusable mould for a much shorter timespan. In the end it's all wasteful and harmful for some dinky plastic globe people throw a few bucks at and eventually throw away. Humans suck and we do whatever we can for a buck, companies make millions at the cost of the planet with no care of the outcome so long as money is made.
YES! EXACTLY! I KNEW IT! It is actually quite hard to print a sphere. And it's not commercially viable if you want to sell hundreds of them. I would rather buy a moon that is NOT 3d printed to avoid the 3d print layers texture. People have been making globes for years before 3d printing. I don't understand the 3d printed moon viral success.
I've had no problems printing spheres, the problem that most people seem to have is the fact that they don't/can't control the ambient AND interior heat, if the print is printed hollow. Whilst complicated, it can be solved by using an enclosure, and forbidding the cooling draft from going down, into the print, and forcing it to go up (which, is admittedly complicated). Further steps can be taken with reactive cooling, using temp sensors in various locations, and making sure that the temperatures remain constant, but that's above Joe Average's means, and i've done ok with the simpler method too.
The Original 3D printed design is meant to work as a lithograph because it's translucent and the varying thickness on both the inside and outside of he object. the non 3D printed version cannot do this.
@@infernaldaedra I'm pretty sure you CAN do it if you spend 10 minutes thinking about how it could be done. I never liked the final effect of backlit FDM prints because of the lines. The light brings out all the defects. Once I printed the moon in glow in dark filament, thinking it's going to look awesome. While it is shocking when you first see it, it didn't worked out the way I hoped. The filament emits in all directions and there was no difference in strength in various tickness. All the detail was drowned and it looked more like you have a radioactive meteorite in the room. And I think the original 3d printed moon kickstarter project was meant to be lit from the outside to bring out the craters and and all the shadows. Not as a backlit lithography. That showed up later on ebay.
The "crystal" thing is actually a shake sensor. It's hollow inside and has a little metal ball inside, so when you shake(tap is basically a weak shake) the orb, the metal ball makes contact with the contact points inside, which connects the circuit, detecting a tap
Sometimes tap or impact sensors have a small very delicate spring around a vertical rod. There's a gap so they don't always touch, but when you tap or move it they contact and close the circuit.
13:03 I'm pretty certain, those are personality cores for the Aperture Science Enrichment Center supercomputer. And that drum holds the conversion gel that allows the Portal gun to place portals on surfaces that would normally be unfit for placing portals.
My mom gave me one of these a few years ago, and i rolled my eyes at it then. After she passed away it became one of my most prized possessions. Thanks for digging into how it's made.
Same with me, with a plush unicorn that chimes and lights up when you pet it. I'm in my 40s. XD No CLUE why mom felt I needed it. But now? I wouldn't trade it.
I 3d printed a moon lamp myself 2 years ago and the top of it is noticeably darker because the walls are thicker at the top where it needed more material to print properly.
Whist mis-labelled, they look good for the price. I have previously ordered a custom moon lamp with a personalized image of myself and my girlfriend on one side, and a message on the other, which absolutely was 3D printed using FDM, cost around $100 AUD, and worth the cost, really (a lot better than I could have pulled off on my own with my Ender 3).
You know that giving false information on the product is illegal in many countries? Probably nobody will go to the authorities with it, but still lying to your custormers is never a good thing
@@silvk1000 They technically have not explicitly stated that the actual product they are selling is 3d printed. It just says "By 3d technologies" which, arguably, it is, since the molds are 3d printed. They heavily imply it, and it is definitely scummy, but it will probably hold up in court. It is extremely difficult to penalize a company for lying, for example Facebook said that Oculus would remain independent and would never require a Facebook account, but they were blatantly lying and violated both those promises within two years, and no problems came of that.
@@silvk1000 Its illegal in civil law not a crime. At the end of the day you still receive a plastic moon toy with crappy colours on it matching the picture, the rules really aren't intended to stop things as trivial as this. Its just the manufacturing process and they won't get punished for changing it...no one has really bought these because they were 3D printed.
More of this please! It’s cool learning about the processes, and using that to debunk their commercial claims. Reminds me of your video about biodegradable prints a few months ago.
Very nicelly spotted the component that makes the LED react to bumps it is indeed a shock sensor, worth seeing diagrams/schematics of it, its basically a coil with a straight wire in the middle, and when you bump they make contact thus sending a signal.
We had got one for a gift a few years ago, and I dropped it when it was new. It was actually 3D printed, it cracked along a layer line and I had to glue it back together. It was just a regular white moon, I assume it was PLA. But maybe the originals started that way…
I think they might be 3D printing the custom versions of the globes, i.e. where you specify your own picture for the design. Those are reasonably popular too, just more expensive than the mass produced versions :D
@@theofficialczex1708 ive seen a couple of the custom ones it isnt a transfer applied to the top, its an actual indented image. So i would also be wiling to guess the custom ones are the ones that are 3d Printed
The company I work for makes moon globes regularly, they are either surface textures like this or hidden textures where you only see the craters when a light is turned on Lithophane style. Our are done using SLS printers, either EOS P100's or EOS P730's. The surface detail of those would make me guess that the original was made using the SLS method. We also print LPF's items, those are done in a what we call "Sandstone" as you mentioned the binder jetting. These days we also do two other full color print methods both under umbrella of material jetting.
I found one at Goodwill back in 2017 and it was definitely 3D printed. There was even a custom 3D printed lithophane photo that was obviously donated at the same time. As I recall, both halves of the moon were glued together at the equator line, IIRC, so it wasn’t even printed in one go.
Hi Angus, To see if it is really PVC, you can conduct a Beilstein test, using a coper wire that you heat, then use the coper wire to melt a tiny hole into the material, and then use a gas torch to heat the coper wire again. Green flame??? Bingo, PVC. I have a video on my channel about the Beilstein test as this is very important for people using laser engravers. Great video. Thanks for making this.
@Steven Hogue I was in doubt if I should mention my channel and decided not to link to the actual video for that same reason. Yet, because of the danger of pvc and the ease of this test, I felt like this is appropriate. Sorry if people think it's not.
I think that blow molding could be another possibility. I used to work in a building that did rotational molding. Some of the molds were huge. Two that I remember were feed bins for agriculture. And sceptic tanks. The sceptic tanks were as big as a large 1970s car. And watching the mold for those spinning was quite wild. That and the burners to produce the flames that was used to cook the mold as it rotated. Smaller items were molded in large heated chambers.
I bought a moon lamp and by the look and feel I was convinced it was 3D printed. Then I printed one myself on an Ender 5 Plus, and realized that the time it takes to print would make it impossible to make any profit from printing, so I've been wondering ever since, how they did that. It's very hard to tell the difference between my Amazon-bought Moon lamp and the one I printed, except mine has less detail, which is to be expected since I had just started printing at the time. Because of the rough surface, layer lines are non-existent. Someday I'm going to print a very large one! BTW, if you've never seen one of these Moon lamps illuminated, they look incredibly real. It's not just random mountains and craters, but made from an actual Moon map.
wouldn't it being completely metal make the switch be basically always on and thus not work? I've seen this design used for tilt switches but only with the largest part of the capsule being made of plastic or something non-conductive. That looks more like a quartz crystal honestly. I wouldn't say it 100% isn't a tilt switch but I don't see how that would work Edit: a quick google later it seems that metal tilt switches do exist and the way they work is basically just like those coaxial barrel jacks. One pin is the entire outside part and the other is in the middle separated by ceramic or something so the ball always touches the one pin and only touches the other when it's down.
@@devnol It wouldn't work if it was all metal, true ^^. It's usually a cylinder and a spring, both connected to one pin each and the spring mounted in a way that it doesn't touch the cylinder unless it is shaken. The ones with a ball inside are used as switches that turn on when they are in a certain orientation, so not based on acceleration.
Interesting stuff. Oddly, my first big 3D printing project on my new Prusa Mini (Xmas gift) was 3 lithopane moon. I found a design online and modified it with a hole fora stand. I created a stand an inside the moon a tube. I wrapped the tube with led tape, 15 leds in total. In the base I have an esp2866 running WLED software. U used an old Nokia charger as the power supply but could easily fit a battery inside instead. Now I have a moon lamp controlled by the WLED app on my phone. Lots of fun and already stolen by my daughter. Thanks for the channel. Am new to this hobby and have learnt a lot from you.
I had one of these fail so I cut out the bottom to use as a lamp shade. The interior is definitely rotation molded and smooth. If it were 3D printed, you would see a seam line. They were sold as 3D printed when this was a novelty. Tap switching is a conductive switch on the bottom. See the small metal button.
There’s a reason I love watching all your videos. I have not one iota of an interest in these lamps but I learned so much about manufacturing processes like the rotational molding that I would have never learned about any other way.
I'd been wondering about these after seeing so many on Amazon for insane prices. I knew there's no way they could have been truly 3D printed. Glad you dug into this. :)
It could be blow moulded. Similar to rotational except literal ' blowing ' air inside to strech the plastic to the outside of the mould. It is used to make things like whistles, some kids toys. The ' mystery part ' could be a tilt sensor. An aluminium tin can with a ball bering and a second contact for the outside to connect to when the ball hits it while rubbing the side.
For something basically perfectly spherical blow molding sounds like it would be faster and more economic. I remember seeing a video of bath tubs being vacuum formed. A complete tub took just a few seconds to form and kick out of the mold. Blow molding spheres like these should be about as quick, and it wouldn't need a machine to rotate the mold in all possible directions.
You can download the STL file for em and print them at home. Obviously the mass manufacturered Chinese version is not 3D printed because that wouldn't make sense economically. Video is kinda non-news in that respect but still appreciate Angus calling them out publicly for the kids and newbies - good guy that Angus
The stuff at 13:18 isn’t plastic, it’s a liquid painted on the inside of the moulds so that the next part removes easily from it. The plastic itself is a fine powder.
10:22 Yes, that _is_ how it detects bumps. There's either a metal pin inside, and a spring hanging over it, so that any vibrations cause the spring to make contact with the pin and close a circuit, or the spring contacts the metal can, either way, there's a spring.
When I worked in the molding industry we used fine powder for rotation molding . We did mold large items so smaller may be abpr to get sway with liquid.
The molds in that video actually reminds me more of device that sometimes is used to make sure plastic is the correct shape after it was cooled down ( especially orbs can end up more oval even with 3D printing .. but putting it in these things and heating it up it can squeeze it in the perfect orb form (this is usually done before the hydro dipping)
I have 2 white ones that are for sure 3D printed. I have accidentally dropped both of them (because they are so light and easy to knock out of their base) and they both cracked perfectly along a layer line, and they also clearly have layer lines on the inside. I would have much preferred a molded one that wouldn't break from a short fall.
10:25 @Maker's Muse Yeah, that's the component. It is like a shaking sensor, and it works with a tiny spring inside, so when the spring moves, it makes contact with the outer cylinder of the component and that detects the "shake"
The custom ones are 3d printed as lithophone's, I have printed them myself and they have made the standard moons as cheap to produce as they can. loved the detective work of how they made them
I'm asking WHY would anyone WANT these to be 3D printed (apart from the custom ones)? A molded piece with smooth (realistic) surface WITHOUT print lines would be much preferrable, no? So why is this a positive or even the main feature of those lamps?
10:20 yes that is some sort of a "tilt switch". Simplest ones just have a metal bearing inside and contacts on the ends, so it can detect flipping it upside down (ball lying on contacts or not), this one probably has a spring inside + the shell as the other contact so the spring wobbles and touches the wall when you bump it.
I recently bought a moon lamp for my partner, not from online, and thankfully mine truly was 3D printed, the layer lines and incredibly uniform and there’s no imperfections, costly though, over 100$ along with the magnetic base.
Hey you could always hook up a big bright orange extension cord to it, since its a display piece the bright orange will draw the eye to it better and make it pop.
Great video - I've never seen these things before but I love working out how things are made the same as you clearly do. This leads me on to my wheelbarrow (yes really). It appears injection moulded as the sprues and parting line are visible, yet it has layer lines which are clearly from an FDM process. I can't work out how this has been made or why 3d printing would have a place in high-volume plastic manufacture. Surely silicone moulding of something the size of a wheelbarrow isn't economically viable in production quantities? Any ideas what process was used for this thing?
I'd also bet the mold tool was made via CNC cutting. You've got the negative from the _subtractive_ manufacturing, meaning your part shows the shape of the router mill's corner or round, which was removed from the mold material. I've seen striations on molded parts before, but they're usually so tiny one wouldn't confuse them with FDM - more similar to a very fine brushed pattern. Maybe they decided the part was big enough that visible cut layers didn't matter, as most eyes won't get closer than arm's length. Seems like the texture would make the thing harder to keep clean, though. A quick sand (bead) blast would have beat down the edges of the tool, without more detailed polishing.
The video you were showing had text that said they do custom moon lamps, and I saw a bit of one with what looked like a photo of a person on it, I suspect the custom ones are 3-D printed (and that's what that giant array of printers was making), but they mass-produce the rotational molded ones. As to why they don't admit to the molding process, maybe they think they are protecting their secret manufacturing process? I have no idea why they'd do that.
On the shot with roto-casters (13:00) you can clearly see that what the lady is cleaning up are not supports from 3D printing but flashings from casting process
Thank you so much for this video! I just picked up one of those lamps (though it didn't claim to be 3d printed), and it was really interesting to see how it was made, and to learn a bit about 3d printing in the process. Thank you for making such a thorough video 😊
I was actually way more interested in how this was made since the thumbnail told me it wasn't 3D printed. I would be very interested in you explaining how other things are made, Angus! (Since I think you have a degree in that field, if I'm not mistaken.)
The metal cylinder loocks like a quartz osculator used for clocking of microcontrollers, processors etc. one of the small chips on board could be an accelerometer, some accelerometers have a build in tap detection, they could also just send the acceleration data to a microcontroller for processing and tap detection, the accelerometer chips are quite small about 4x4mm.
The pegs you use to hold down the border thingies that you put in the backyard if you want to have a nice edge between grass and pebbles etc. are also made using a 3d print master, if you look at the end you can tell it was sanded , but not very well as the 0.2mm layer height is still visible in some places.
it seems they are hyping 3d printing because it is cool. But there's a lot of awesome ways to make stuff which include 3d printing. On TheCrafsMan's channel he has a few videos on 3d printing a master mold and then using it with a consumer-level injection molding machine. Using these techniques you can even cast metal, so you could design and make a metal part using your 3d printer (and a molding machine). Fascinating stuff!
I wonder if they're 3d printing moulds, because they don't last very long. Perhaps each mould only lasts 5-20x casts. But the combination of 3d printers & moulding enables the manufacturing to be very agile, able to incorporate changes very quickly.
Very interesting. 3D printed used to be a negative property implying nasty print lines and low durability but it seems the public image has improved so much it's actually a selling point. My partner has one of these and it's definitely fully 3D printed (with FDM no less) as it has big obvious layer lines especially at the top which looks like you'd expect the top of a sphere with no supports so it seems some are truly 3DP
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼 Im not interested in the moons, but learned about the sheets and some bonus molding techniques that I will probably never use 😉 What book was it you were looking in about molding techniques?
Shell is probably a blend of PVC and ABS, heavy on the ABS, as that makes it flow better when molten. PVC for the injection moulded base, simply because it will inject better, and will not burn in the extruder, as it melts at a higher temperature and also discolours at a higher temperature. ABS because it is a cheap filler in the PVC, plus adds opaqueness to the otherwise pale PVC. Yes rotocast, easier, you just put in a handful of powder, close the mould and place in the oven while turning, and get a good finish. The moulds themselves are very likely made from steel stampings, as they were probably made using a CNC router to make the master moulds, which leaves very similar finish lines to a 3D print, if you do not do proper finishing Then used a hydraulic press to make thin steel shells, so there is low thermal mass, for fast heating in the oven as it goes through. Pressed shells so each one is identical, and very cheap, just heat the sheet to red heat in an inert atmosphere, and squeeze between mould halves. Polish inside, clean off the mould line on the equator, and you get many moulds cheap.
I'm about to do some searching, to find more info, but I think it'd be really cool if you did a video on the rotational mold manufacturing process you spoke of. I have a couple 3d printer, and have heard a a bunch of other methods of manufacturing plastic products, but never seen anything manufactured by spinning the mold to coat it. This video was way more interesting than I would have thought it'd be, but your videos always are, so I didn't think twice about watching it. I put off watching the interview you linked to in the printing pioneering video I was watching before this came up at the end. Thanks for the link to the interview, can't wait to watch it once I'm done typing. The kinematics of those printers is crazy and I can't wait to hear a bit more about it. Also, I apparently need to spend some time in the reprap forums. If for nothing else, to take a look at the genesis of the crazy kinematics seen in the 3d printing pioneer video I keep referring to
In case anyone reads my comment and is interested in what I was referring to, it was this vid I'm linking to, also by Maker'sMuse ua-cam.com/video/waQQg1uz-wI/v-deo.html And here's the interview I Maker'sMuse linked to in the link above ua-cam.com/video/ZWyFSal1FAM/v-deo.html
Angus I have 3 projet 660s at MiMe Global. When printed thin it will transmit light, but the thinner you print as you know it will be fragile. Any questions about CJP process or machine give me a mesage.
I imagine it senses bumbs using an accelerometer chip. That other component you pointed out is a quartz oscillator probably used to keep the led driver timed.
The moulds are probably electo-formed rather than silicon. You coat the the part in conductive paint and then deposit copper onto it by electrolysis. This creates a very architecture metal mould. Also done for designer vinyl toys.
bump detection is normally a spring switch: a small metal rod with a small sensitive spring surrounding it. when bumped the spring touches the rod connecting the circut.
It's pretty damned simple, there's no need to speculate because of that video: a. they print the positive 3D part (this can go two ways, but the best way, and the way i'll put it is where they print the features on the inside, leaving the outside smooth, which seemed to match some of the parts they touch/show) b. they fill it up with firing plaster/sand and fire it to get rid of the 3D skin. c. they make a metal mold of that using an exterior pre-made sphere skin and the plaster/sand core. it's likely cast in two parts so they can remove the 3d part from the inside. d. it gets the frame welded around it, then it becomes able to blow mold plastic skins and that's about it. the lady with the scalpel was cleaning the excess plastic from the blow molding process.
Did you measure the voltage the little circuit pushes the LiPo battery after it has been connected for hours? I hope it's 4.20 V or less or it may cause potential fire hazard in long term. If I were designing such a device, I'd probably try to keep the battery at constant 3.85 V. Sure, it reduces the run time on battery only but it would make the LiPo technology safe and the make the battery last for a really long time.
I got one of these for Christmas, identical to the one in the video. I rather like it but being a 3d printing hobbyist myself I was puzzled by ardent claims on the packaging that it was 3d printed. I was briefly confused by the layer lines in some places and not others, I thought maybe a result of their post-processing, set it down, and haven't thought about it since. Even if it was... why do they think I care? I feel like trying to capitalize on 3d printing being a novelty is a few years late with how common of technology it is these days. They're apparently selling well enough I suppose so good for them I guess. If I'm going to get lied to by a company about their manufacturing process, this is about as benign as it gets.
It detects the bump via a spring surrounded with metal. when the spring shakes from the bump it contacts the outer metal casing and triggers (what i would assume) a pin in the microcontroller
I have one and i i suspect it is 3D printed as mine doesn't have a removable plug seal like yours does, it also had plastic stringing on it out of the box like you get on a 3D print. It also has a seam line 50% of the way through the sphere that is visible when illuminated where they paused the print to fit internal parts (or fused after with glue). My sphere is much smaller than the globes in your video and doesn't have the printing over the top, just plain white.
I am interested in the book at 3:46. Can you tell me the name? I tried to look for "product and furniture design" on kindle but there is none. Do you recommend any similar ebooks to that? I am very interested in the manufacturing processes, especially plastic moulding.
another great video Angus! A few years ago you had done a video on 3d printing these types of globes and like many, I did too. I still have my "moon" and I still light it up at night.....thanks
That component highlighted is definitly a clock crystal something you need since there is a breathing mode. My guess for the sesnsor would be the part connected to V+, G and R on the board
Does anyone know where to get the book Angus is using? It's called "Product and furniture design - the manufacturing guides" By Rob Thompson. I'm a product developement engineer student, and would very much like to use this for my studies!
Possibly they manufacture basic ones using the rotational method, and they offer Custom versions with Logo's or imbedded images that are individually 3D printed? The video you referenced does show a 3D model that had an image or logo embossed onto it. Possible those custom ones sell for more, but they also mass produce basic ones using the rotational pvc plastic method.
A lot of water tanks use a process that's the opposite of vacuum forming where they put a sleeve of plastic into a mould heat it up and inflate it like a balloon into the mould
Could they also be vacuum-molded or pressure molded? stick 2 hot sheets of plastic in the round mold, seel them shut, then either remove all the air in the mold or blast air in between the sheets, so they form around the mold. Cool them down and you have your dome
Hi Angus. I have a moon lamp that I purchased and was trying to figure out if it was really 3D printed or not. I always thought they were molded some way and not 3D printed because I could never really detect any layer lines. Also on another note, I noticed all the keyboards in the background. Do you play? Cheers
you might be right with your opinoin about the part which causes the change of color, piezo crystals are a common way to detect pressures or anything which is applied through pressing on it, like shaking or tapping
if the component you mentioned makes a rattle noise, it's what detects the poking , i used something exactly similar looking for my project, it makes an electrical connection when it moves around/rattles I think!
I have bought two180 mm diameter white color earth globes over 2 year period. Drilled and cut open the bottom and found lots of stringing at the top where the 3d printing's final stage happened. The first one is made with higher quality material and the latter one with off-white lower quality that doesn't produce even lighting. Both cost me around US$25 including shipping from Alibaba.
Its's funny, I visited your channel 2 days ago to see if you had posted anything recently. Great work! Also I picked up the g10 and I'm loving it. Thank you
Рік тому
10:25 it's crystal oscillator. crystal oscillator gives timing for processor. for analyze we need to see pcb.
If you look at the products that the woman is cleaning up at 12:57, the ones on the table have flashing on them. If you were 3D printing each one, you wouldn't have that much (if any) flashing to trim. You would only have that much if they were molded.
Recently parts I've bought online from Chinese vendors that were described as 3D printed were actually injection moulded. Sellers are discovering that 3D printing can be a positive selling point for some products. Like it signifies it was made by a fellow hobbyist at small scale.
I really don't get how this could be an argument for a product. 3d printing is fantastic for prototyping, but for a finished product injection molding is a lot better.
lol i cant see why that would be a positive thing. i like 3d printing and all but if you wanna sell me a mass produced object then 3d printing becomes a negative.
@@AdamMi1 non 3d printing hobbyists don't know that injection moulding is stronger, only hobbyists would know that, so that's why.
@@XxIcedecknightxX Non 3d printing hobbyists couldn't care less how it was made and 3D printers wouldn't buy something they can print. No one has really bought this product on the basis it was 3d printed this is all faux outrage at its worst.
@@backgammonbacon I disagree. It's mainly anecdotal but when I usually show models or prints to friends and family, they usually find it charming and find it more interesting than a conventional injection mold part. So they could be targeting the people that don't own a printer but have friends or family that do. If they're trying to market the idea that it's 3d printed and they're going that far to hide it then something is proving it to be beneficial for doing so.
Interesting, i guess saying something is 3D printed helps it sell? In my opinion 3D printing is amazing and you can get production quality products but i always think the layer lines look as if an item is a prototype.
yeah, such a weird thing to lie about... a rotational mould item is much more durable, won't melt in the car, more environmentally friendly, and generally a much nicer product than a huge PLA print would be
@@ffoska keep in mind you can still use other types of filament to achieve the same things
@@ffoska more environmentally friendly?
@@ollieb393 I assume compared to having a massive farm of heated printers running 24/7, you'd have less power draw, less maintenance of said printers and potential failures etc when you can simply heat and spin the reusable mould for a much shorter timespan. In the end it's all wasteful and harmful for some dinky plastic globe people throw a few bucks at and eventually throw away. Humans suck and we do whatever we can for a buck, companies make millions at the cost of the planet with no care of the outcome so long as money is made.
@@MidnightMarrow so like energy costs
YES!
EXACTLY! I KNEW IT!
It is actually quite hard to print a sphere. And it's not commercially viable if you want to sell hundreds of them. I would rather buy a moon that is NOT 3d printed to avoid the 3d print layers texture. People have been making globes for years before 3d printing. I don't understand the 3d printed moon viral success.
Well , its an easy model to print and sell
I've had no problems printing spheres, the problem that most people seem to have is the fact that they don't/can't control the ambient AND interior heat, if the print is printed hollow.
Whilst complicated, it can be solved by using an enclosure, and forbidding the cooling draft from going down, into the print, and forcing it to go up (which, is admittedly complicated). Further steps can be taken with reactive cooling, using temp sensors in various locations, and making sure that the temperatures remain constant, but that's above Joe Average's means, and i've done ok with the simpler method too.
The Original 3D printed design is meant to work as a lithograph because it's translucent and the varying thickness on both the inside and outside of he object. the non 3D printed version cannot do this.
@@infernaldaedra I'm pretty sure you CAN do it if you spend 10 minutes thinking about how it could be done. I never liked the final effect of backlit FDM prints because of the lines. The light brings out all the defects.
Once I printed the moon in glow in dark filament, thinking it's going to look awesome. While it is shocking when you first see it, it didn't worked out the way I hoped. The filament emits in all directions and there was no difference in strength in various tickness. All the detail was drowned and it looked more like you have a radioactive meteorite in the room.
And I think the original 3d printed moon kickstarter project was meant to be lit from the outside to bring out the craters and and all the shadows. Not as a backlit lithography. That showed up later on ebay.
I don’t understand the success of boy bands, either.
The "crystal" thing is actually a shake sensor. It's hollow inside and has a little metal ball inside, so when you shake(tap is basically a weak shake) the orb, the metal ball makes contact with the contact points inside, which connects the circuit, detecting a tap
Came here to say this.
This could be easily tested by just shorting the leads of that component and see if the circuit reacts to it in the same way.
Sometimes tap or impact sensors have a small very delicate spring around a vertical rod. There's a gap so they don't always touch, but when you tap or move it they contact and close the circuit.
yup, old Brita replace filter sensors used the same thing.
its the new mercury switch
13:03 I'm pretty certain, those are personality cores for the Aperture Science Enrichment Center supercomputer.
And that drum holds the conversion gel that allows the Portal gun to place portals on surfaces that would normally be unfit for placing portals.
Obviously! How could we think anything else!
Oh no, mine was hollow though... did I let its personality out? :(
@@MakersMuse nah, the components probably fell out, you can probably still find them
The what? I only know of the Genetic Lifeform and Disc Operating System
My mom gave me one of these a few years ago, and i rolled my eyes at it then. After she passed away it became one of my most prized possessions. Thanks for digging into how it's made.
Same with me, with a plush unicorn that chimes and lights up when you pet it. I'm in my 40s. XD
No CLUE why mom felt I needed it. But now? I wouldn't trade it.
I 3d printed a moon lamp myself 2 years ago and the top of it is noticeably darker because the walls are thicker at the top where it needed more material to print properly.
Isn't that something some settings in the slicer could fix?
@@Jehty_ Yeah if I printed it with supports probably. XD
Whist mis-labelled, they look good for the price. I have previously ordered a custom moon lamp with a personalized image of myself and my girlfriend on one side, and a message on the other, which absolutely was 3D printed using FDM, cost around $100 AUD, and worth the cost, really (a lot better than I could have pulled off on my own with my Ender 3).
You know that giving false information on the product is illegal in many countries? Probably nobody will go to the authorities with it, but still lying to your custormers is never a good thing
@@silvk1000 They technically have not explicitly stated that the actual product they are selling is 3d printed. It just says "By 3d technologies" which, arguably, it is, since the molds are 3d printed. They heavily imply it, and it is definitely scummy, but it will probably hold up in court. It is extremely difficult to penalize a company for lying, for example Facebook said that Oculus would remain independent and would never require a Facebook account, but they were blatantly lying and violated both those promises within two years, and no problems came of that.
@@silvk1000 Its illegal in civil law not a crime. At the end of the day you still receive a plastic moon toy with crappy colours on it matching the picture, the rules really aren't intended to stop things as trivial as this. Its just the manufacturing process and they won't get punished for changing it...no one has really bought these because they were 3D printed.
@@Shalashalska watch the wideo, he showed a website to buy it which said it's 3d printed.
@@backgammonbacon yeah, the same as ads like "3000 mAh AA battery BUY NOW" and it ends like 2800. Or 1200 if you choose the chinese one :>
More of this please! It’s cool learning about the processes, and using that to debunk their commercial claims. Reminds me of your video about biodegradable prints a few months ago.
Very nicelly spotted the component that makes the LED react to bumps it is indeed a shock sensor, worth seeing diagrams/schematics of it, its basically a coil with a straight wire in the middle, and when you bump they make contact thus sending a signal.
We had got one for a gift a few years ago, and I dropped it when it was new. It was actually 3D printed, it cracked along a layer line and I had to glue it back together. It was just a regular white moon, I assume it was PLA. But maybe the originals started that way…
I think they might be 3D printing the custom versions of the globes, i.e. where you specify your own picture for the design. Those are reasonably popular too, just more expensive than the mass produced versions :D
They can just change the image they use for hydrodipping.
@@theofficialczex1708 ive seen a couple of the custom ones it isnt a transfer applied to the top, its an actual indented image. So i would also be wiling to guess the custom ones are the ones that are 3d Printed
Yeah in the original video you can see custom designs on the computer.
In all honesty, the actual process they use to make and colour the spheres is much more interesting than just 3D printing.
Hell yea! I would love to see a video like this breaking down that colouring process.
The company I work for makes moon globes regularly, they are either surface textures like this or hidden textures where you only see the craters when a light is turned on Lithophane style. Our are done using SLS printers, either EOS P100's or EOS P730's. The surface detail of those would make me guess that the original was made using the SLS method. We also print LPF's items, those are done in a what we call "Sandstone" as you mentioned the binder jetting. These days we also do two other full color print methods both under umbrella of material jetting.
I found one at Goodwill back in 2017 and it was definitely 3D printed. There was even a custom 3D printed lithophane photo that was obviously donated at the same time. As I recall, both halves of the moon were glued together at the equator line, IIRC, so it wasn’t even printed in one go.
Hi Angus,
To see if it is really PVC, you can conduct a Beilstein test, using a coper wire that you heat, then use the coper wire to melt a tiny hole into the material, and then use a gas torch to heat the coper wire again. Green flame??? Bingo, PVC.
I have a video on my channel about the Beilstein test as this is very important for people using laser engravers.
Great video. Thanks for making this.
Normally I would say this is self promotion, but you actually do!
This is good advice!
@Steven Hogue I was in doubt if I should mention my channel and decided not to link to the actual video for that same reason. Yet, because of the danger of pvc and the ease of this test, I felt like this is appropriate.
Sorry if people think it's not.
I think that blow molding could be another possibility.
I used to work in a building that did rotational molding. Some of the molds were huge. Two that I remember were feed bins for agriculture. And sceptic tanks. The sceptic tanks were as big as a large 1970s car. And watching the mold for those spinning was quite wild. That and the burners to produce the flames that was used to cook the mold as it rotated. Smaller items were molded in large heated chambers.
I have to say the best part of this video is learning that Angus is a synth nerd. I have that same Roland JP 8080 seen in the bottom of the rack.
Good find! They'll outlast their keyboard brethren and you can't beat the original supersaw.
I bought a moon lamp and by the look and feel I was convinced it was 3D printed. Then I printed one myself on an Ender 5 Plus, and realized that the time it takes to print would make it impossible to make any profit from printing, so I've been wondering ever since, how they did that.
It's very hard to tell the difference between my Amazon-bought Moon lamp and the one I printed, except mine has less detail, which is to be expected since I had just started printing at the time. Because of the rough surface, layer lines are non-existent. Someday I'm going to print a very large one!
BTW, if you've never seen one of these Moon lamps illuminated, they look incredibly real. It's not just random mountains and craters, but made from an actual Moon map.
10:20, you are right . That looks like a tilt switch to me.
Yep, looks like an old-school tilt switch, probably just a spring inside that touches the cylinder when it moves quickly
wouldn't it being completely metal make the switch be basically always on and thus not work? I've seen this design used for tilt switches but only with the largest part of the capsule being made of plastic or something non-conductive. That looks more like a quartz crystal honestly. I wouldn't say it 100% isn't a tilt switch but I don't see how that would work
Edit: a quick google later it seems that metal tilt switches do exist and the way they work is basically just like those coaxial barrel jacks. One pin is the entire outside part and the other is in the middle separated by ceramic or something so the ball always touches the one pin and only touches the other when it's down.
@@devnol It wouldn't work if it was all metal, true ^^. It's usually a cylinder and a spring, both connected to one pin each and the spring mounted in a way that it doesn't touch the cylinder unless it is shaken. The ones with a ball inside are used as switches that turn on when they are in a certain orientation, so not based on acceleration.
Yo! I didn't realize you put that much effort into the us links! Thank you!
Interesting stuff. Oddly, my first big 3D printing project on my new Prusa Mini (Xmas gift) was 3 lithopane moon. I found a design online and modified it with a hole fora stand. I created a stand an inside the moon a tube. I wrapped the tube with led tape, 15 leds in total. In the base I have an esp2866 running WLED software. U used an old Nokia charger as the power supply but could easily fit a battery inside instead. Now I have a moon lamp controlled by the WLED app on my phone. Lots of fun and already stolen by my daughter. Thanks for the channel. Am new to this hobby and have learnt a lot from you.
I really appreciate the way your thumbnails answer the question asked in the title--tricking the algorithm but not your viewers!
I had one of these fail so I cut out the bottom to use as a lamp shade. The interior is definitely rotation molded and smooth. If it were 3D printed, you would see a seam line. They were sold as 3D printed when this was a novelty.
Tap switching is a conductive switch on the bottom. See the small metal button.
There’s a reason I love watching all your videos. I have not one iota of an interest in these lamps but I learned so much about manufacturing processes like the rotational molding that I would have never learned about any other way.
I'd been wondering about these after seeing so many on Amazon for insane prices. I knew there's no way they could have been truly 3D printed. Glad you dug into this. :)
Absolutely loving the anti-clickbait thumbnail. I wish I could re-subscribe just for that :D
It could be blow moulded. Similar to rotational except literal ' blowing ' air inside to strech the plastic to the outside of the mould. It is used to make things like whistles, some kids toys.
The ' mystery part ' could be a tilt sensor. An aluminium tin can with a ball bering and a second contact for the outside to connect to when the ball hits it while rubbing the side.
For something basically perfectly spherical blow molding sounds like it would be faster and more economic. I remember seeing a video of bath tubs being vacuum formed. A complete tub took just a few seconds to form and kick out of the mold. Blow molding spheres like these should be about as quick, and it wouldn't need a machine to rotate the mold in all possible directions.
My thought was blow molding as well. Rotational molding does take some time.
You can download the STL file for em and print them at home. Obviously the mass manufacturered Chinese version is not 3D printed because that wouldn't make sense economically. Video is kinda non-news in that respect but still appreciate Angus calling them out publicly for the kids and newbies - good guy that Angus
It's a bit of a false selling point for some of them but the actual manufacturing process is just as interesting imo
The stuff at 13:18 isn’t plastic, it’s a liquid painted on the inside of the moulds so that the next part removes easily from it. The plastic itself is a fine powder.
10:22 Yes, that _is_ how it detects bumps. There's either a metal pin inside, and a spring hanging over it, so that any vibrations cause the spring to make contact with the pin and close a circuit, or the spring contacts the metal can, either way, there's a spring.
In my opinion, the small cylinder is a tilt ball switch and it can detect mouvement
Awesome video by the way
When I worked in the molding industry we used fine powder for rotation molding . We did mold large items so smaller may be abpr to get sway with liquid.
The molds in that video actually reminds me more of device that sometimes is used to make sure plastic is the correct shape after it was cooled down ( especially orbs can end up more oval even with 3D printing .. but putting it in these things and heating it up it can squeeze it in the perfect orb form (this is usually done before the hydro dipping)
I have 2 white ones that are for sure 3D printed. I have accidentally dropped both of them (because they are so light and easy to knock out of their base) and they both cracked perfectly along a layer line, and they also clearly have layer lines on the inside.
I would have much preferred a molded one that wouldn't break from a short fall.
10:25 @Maker's Muse
Yeah, that's the component. It is like a shaking sensor, and it works with a tiny spring inside, so when the spring moves, it makes contact with the outer cylinder of the component and that detects the "shake"
The custom ones are 3d printed as lithophone's, I have printed them myself and they have made the standard moons as cheap to produce as they can. loved the detective work of how they made them
I'm asking WHY would anyone WANT these to be 3D printed (apart from the custom ones)? A molded piece with smooth (realistic) surface WITHOUT print lines would be much preferrable, no? So why is this a positive or even the main feature of those lamps?
10:20 yes that is some sort of a "tilt switch". Simplest ones just have a metal bearing inside and contacts on the ends, so it can detect flipping it upside down (ball lying on contacts or not), this one probably has a spring inside + the shell as the other contact so the spring wobbles and touches the wall when you bump it.
Excellent detective work. Molding makes substantially more sense. I had wondered how it could possibly be economical to 3D print.
This is a big problem with watching Angus show us interesting things, I end up wanting the product/print he's showing :)
5:42 Angus, what were you searching for there to find Rares? Haha!
I recently bought a moon lamp for my partner, not from online, and thankfully mine truly was 3D printed, the layer lines and incredibly uniform and there’s no imperfections, costly though, over 100$ along with the magnetic base.
Hey you could always hook up a big bright orange extension cord to it, since its a display piece the bright orange will draw the eye to it better and make it pop.
Great video - I've never seen these things before but I love working out how things are made the same as you clearly do. This leads me on to my wheelbarrow (yes really). It appears injection moulded as the sprues and parting line are visible, yet it has layer lines which are clearly from an FDM process. I can't work out how this has been made or why 3d printing would have a place in high-volume plastic manufacture. Surely silicone moulding of something the size of a wheelbarrow isn't economically viable in production quantities?
Any ideas what process was used for this thing?
CNC mills can also leave layer lines in metal injection molding molds if to don't take fine finishing passes.
I'd also bet the mold tool was made via CNC cutting. You've got the negative from the _subtractive_ manufacturing, meaning your part shows the shape of the router mill's corner or round, which was removed from the mold material. I've seen striations on molded parts before, but they're usually so tiny one wouldn't confuse them with FDM - more similar to a very fine brushed pattern.
Maybe they decided the part was big enough that visible cut layers didn't matter, as most eyes won't get closer than arm's length. Seems like the texture would make the thing harder to keep clean, though. A quick sand (bead) blast would have beat down the edges of the tool, without more detailed polishing.
7:40 That looks like an eye blank for a fursuit head, you cannot hide your secrets from me Mr. Muse
The video you were showing had text that said they do custom moon lamps, and I saw a bit of one with what looked like a photo of a person on it, I suspect the custom ones are 3-D printed (and that's what that giant array of printers was making), but they mass-produce the rotational molded ones. As to why they don't admit to the molding process, maybe they think they are protecting their secret manufacturing process? I have no idea why they'd do that.
Yeah I think you're right, custom ones are 3D printed and they just copied over the description for the molded ones.
Welcome back. Worth the wait.
I was thinking rotation moulding.
Seems like they've gone for low-cost manufacturing techniques.
On the shot with roto-casters (13:00) you can clearly see that what the lady is cleaning up are not supports from 3D printing but flashings from casting process
Thank you so much for this video! I just picked up one of those lamps (though it didn't claim to be 3d printed), and it was really interesting to see how it was made, and to learn a bit about 3d printing in the process. Thank you for making such a thorough video 😊
I was actually way more interested in how this was made since the thumbnail told me it wasn't 3D printed. I would be very interested in you explaining how other things are made, Angus! (Since I think you have a degree in that field, if I'm not mistaken.)
The metal cylinder loocks like a quartz osculator used for clocking of microcontrollers, processors etc. one of the small chips on board could be an accelerometer, some accelerometers have a build in tap detection, they could also just send the acceleration data to a microcontroller for processing and tap detection, the accelerometer chips are quite small about 4x4mm.
The pegs you use to hold down the border thingies that you put in the backyard if you want to have a nice edge between grass and pebbles etc. are also made using a 3d print master, if you look at the end you can tell it was sanded , but not very well as the 0.2mm layer height is still visible in some places.
it seems they are hyping 3d printing because it is cool.
But there's a lot of awesome ways to make stuff which include 3d printing. On TheCrafsMan's channel he has a few videos on 3d printing a master mold and then using it with a consumer-level injection molding machine. Using these techniques you can even cast metal, so you could design and make a metal part using your 3d printer (and a molding machine). Fascinating stuff!
I wonder if they're 3d printing moulds, because they don't last very long. Perhaps each mould only lasts 5-20x casts.
But the combination of 3d printers & moulding enables the manufacturing to be very agile, able to incorporate changes very quickly.
The shock dedector is the white tube show on 10:22 idk how the part is called exaclty but ive seen them and have 1 at home...
I just ordered some water transfer sheets. Thanks for the info!
Very interesting. 3D printed used to be a negative property implying nasty print lines and low durability but it seems the public image has improved so much it's actually a selling point. My partner has one of these and it's definitely fully 3D printed (with FDM no less) as it has big obvious layer lines especially at the top which looks like you'd expect the top of a sphere with no supports so it seems some are truly 3DP
I have some glow in the dark filament and this seems like a pretty interesting use for that. Perhaps I could put a UV light inside to charge it.
This was amazing. I love the story of the detective process.
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼 Im not interested in the moons, but learned about the sheets and some bonus molding techniques that I will probably never use 😉
What book was it you were looking in about molding techniques?
Yep, also want to know about that book. Or maybe a list of books that Angus owns....
Product and furniture design from "the manufacturing guides" by Rob Thompson
Shell is probably a blend of PVC and ABS, heavy on the ABS, as that makes it flow better when molten. PVC for the injection moulded base, simply because it will inject better, and will not burn in the extruder, as it melts at a higher temperature and also discolours at a higher temperature. ABS because it is a cheap filler in the PVC, plus adds opaqueness to the otherwise pale PVC. Yes rotocast, easier, you just put in a handful of powder, close the mould and place in the oven while turning, and get a good finish.
The moulds themselves are very likely made from steel stampings, as they were probably made using a CNC router to make the master moulds, which leaves very similar finish lines to a 3D print, if you do not do proper finishing Then used a hydraulic press to make thin steel shells, so there is low thermal mass, for fast heating in the oven as it goes through. Pressed shells so each one is identical, and very cheap, just heat the sheet to red heat in an inert atmosphere, and squeeze between mould halves. Polish inside, clean off the mould line on the equator, and you get many moulds cheap.
I'm about to do some searching, to find more info, but I think it'd be really cool if you did a video on the rotational mold manufacturing process you spoke of. I have a couple 3d printer, and have heard a a bunch of other methods of manufacturing plastic products, but never seen anything manufactured by spinning the mold to coat it.
This video was way more interesting than I would have thought it'd be, but your videos always are, so I didn't think twice about watching it. I put off watching the interview you linked to in the printing pioneering video I was watching before this came up at the end.
Thanks for the link to the interview, can't wait to watch it once I'm done typing. The kinematics of those printers is crazy and I can't wait to hear a bit more about it. Also, I apparently need to spend some time in the reprap forums. If for nothing else, to take a look at the genesis of the crazy kinematics seen in the 3d printing pioneer video I keep referring to
In case anyone reads my comment and is interested in what I was referring to, it was this vid I'm linking to, also by Maker'sMuse
ua-cam.com/video/waQQg1uz-wI/v-deo.html
And here's the interview I Maker'sMuse linked to in the link above
ua-cam.com/video/ZWyFSal1FAM/v-deo.html
rotocasting can also be done with 2 part resin
Angus I have 3 projet 660s at MiMe Global. When printed thin it will transmit light, but the thinner you print as you know it will be fragile. Any questions about CJP process or machine give me a mesage.
I imagine it senses bumbs using an accelerometer chip. That other component you pointed out is a quartz oscillator probably used to keep the led driver timed.
The moulds are probably electo-formed rather than silicon. You coat the the part in conductive paint and then deposit copper onto it by electrolysis. This creates a very architecture metal mould. Also done for designer vinyl toys.
Sounds like an awesome process, I'll have to look into that!
bump detection is normally a spring switch: a small metal rod with a small sensitive spring surrounding it. when bumped the spring touches the rod connecting the circut.
It's pretty damned simple, there's no need to speculate because of that video:
a. they print the positive 3D part (this can go two ways, but the best way, and the way i'll put it is where they print the features on the inside, leaving the outside smooth, which seemed to match some of the parts they touch/show)
b. they fill it up with firing plaster/sand and fire it to get rid of the 3D skin.
c. they make a metal mold of that using an exterior pre-made sphere skin and the plaster/sand core. it's likely cast in two parts so they can remove the 3d part from the inside.
d. it gets the frame welded around it, then it becomes able to blow mold plastic skins and that's about it.
the lady with the scalpel was cleaning the excess plastic from the blow molding process.
Did you measure the voltage the little circuit pushes the LiPo battery after it has been connected for hours? I hope it's 4.20 V or less or it may cause potential fire hazard in long term. If I were designing such a device, I'd probably try to keep the battery at constant 3.85 V. Sure, it reduces the run time on battery only but it would make the LiPo technology safe and the make the battery last for a really long time.
I got one of these for Christmas, identical to the one in the video. I rather like it but being a 3d printing hobbyist myself I was puzzled by ardent claims on the packaging that it was 3d printed. I was briefly confused by the layer lines in some places and not others, I thought maybe a result of their post-processing, set it down, and haven't thought about it since. Even if it was... why do they think I care? I feel like trying to capitalize on 3d printing being a novelty is a few years late with how common of technology it is these days. They're apparently selling well enough I suppose so good for them I guess. If I'm going to get lied to by a company about their manufacturing process, this is about as benign as it gets.
It detects the bump via a spring surrounded with metal. when the spring shakes from the bump it contacts the outer metal casing and triggers (what i would assume) a pin in the microcontroller
I have one and i i suspect it is 3D printed as mine doesn't have a removable plug seal like yours does, it also had plastic stringing on it out of the box like you get on a 3D print. It also has a seam line 50% of the way through the sphere that is visible when illuminated where they paused the print to fit internal parts (or fused after with glue). My sphere is much smaller than the globes in your video and doesn't have the printing over the top, just plain white.
Nice Veritasium reference 👍😀
anticlickbait!
From their video (in 13:00 ) you can even notice the "collar" on those spheres openings, and print's are not lifted so high to have those :)
I am interested in the book at 3:46. Can you tell me the name? I tried to look for "product and furniture design" on kindle but there is none. Do you recommend any similar ebooks to that? I am very interested in the manufacturing processes, especially plastic moulding.
Well done Angus, good analysis.
another great video Angus! A few years ago you had done a video on 3d printing these types of globes and like many, I did too. I still have my "moon" and I still light it up at night.....thanks
Great detective work man
That component highlighted is definitly a clock crystal something you need since there is a breathing mode. My guess for the sesnsor would be the part connected to V+, G and R on the board
Does anyone know where to get the book Angus is using? It's called "Product and furniture design - the manufacturing guides" By Rob Thompson. I'm a product developement engineer student, and would very much like to use this for my studies!
It's very old now but you might be able to find "Manufacturing Processes for Design Professionals" which covers even more processes!
Possibly they manufacture basic ones using the rotational method, and they offer Custom versions with Logo's or imbedded images that are individually 3D printed? The video you referenced does show a 3D model that had an image or logo embossed onto it. Possible those custom ones sell for more, but they also mass produce basic ones using the rotational pvc plastic method.
A lot of water tanks use a process that's the opposite of vacuum forming where they put a sleeve of plastic into a mould heat it up and inflate it like a balloon into the mould
Babe wake up new makers muse video
Could they also be vacuum-molded or pressure molded? stick 2 hot sheets of plastic in the round mold, seel them shut, then either remove all the air in the mold or blast air in between the sheets, so they form around the mold. Cool them down and you have your dome
Hi Angus. I have a moon lamp that I purchased and was trying to figure out if it was really 3D printed or not. I always thought they were molded some way and not 3D printed because I could never really detect any layer lines. Also on another note, I noticed all the keyboards in the background. Do you play? Cheers
Awesome intro! Great video as always
Regarding the bump detection, I am pretty sure it's done with an on-board accelerometer. There are a lot of dirt cheep micros that have those now.
This is such a beautiful debunk video, didn't think I'd learn about rotational molding and Hydrodipping today but I'm glad I did
you might be right with your opinoin about the part which causes the change of color, piezo crystals are a common way to detect pressures or anything which is applied through pressing on it, like shaking or tapping
the bump senmsor was pretty much on point. it detects bumps through a thin wire on the inside that hits the outer casing completing the circuit
Love it! The power of curiosity is a powerful thing, thank you for another great video Inspector Muse 👍
if the component you mentioned makes a rattle noise, it's what detects the poking , i used something exactly similar looking for my project, it makes an electrical connection when it moves around/rattles I think!
I have bought two180 mm diameter white color earth globes over 2 year period. Drilled and cut open the bottom and found lots of stringing at the top where the 3d printing's final stage happened. The first one is made with higher quality material and the latter one with off-white lower quality that doesn't produce even lighting. Both cost me around US$25 including shipping from Alibaba.
Its's funny, I visited your channel 2 days ago to see if you had posted anything recently. Great work! Also I picked up the g10 and I'm loving it. Thank you
10:25 it's crystal oscillator. crystal oscillator gives timing for processor. for analyze we need to see pcb.
For the 'bump" it's likely using small accelerometer chips (tiny 8 leg chips) to detect the rapid movement.
The tap detection probably is that component. A spring in a metal can is a really cheap binary accelerometer
I printed one for the lamp in my room, looks very nice
If you look at the products that the woman is cleaning up at 12:57, the ones on the table have flashing on them. If you were 3D printing each one, you wouldn't have that much (if any) flashing to trim. You would only have that much if they were molded.