The Last Pressfit Hero! Token Ninja
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- Опубліковано 25 тра 2019
- As my Easton bottom bracket ended up with some pretty substantial bearing drag, I wanted to address this by getting a new bottom bracket. This time I wanted to try a "thread-fit" or "thread-together" or "torque tite" design... but before I could install the new bottom bracket, I needed to hammer out the old one... the horror
Token Ninja TF37 (TF4630) Bottom Bracket
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Park tool BBT-27
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Park tool BBT-29
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Wakos Brake Protector:
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#pressfit #bottombracket #threadfit - Навчання та стиль
Great timing on your video!
I started shopping for a thread-fit alternative for my noisy BB30 last night.
Your video was the motivation I needed to order one :)
Happy wrenching! 🤙
This was the video that made me hit the subscription button of your channel. Fantastic observations at the beginning of the video about de BB. Have a nice work guy. Loves your comments.
Thanks for introducing Token bottom brackets to me. I am giving it a try in my Diverge. No need to mess around with Loctite and much more convenient for upgrading to Di2 in the near future. By the way, always looking forward to your entertaining videos.
Your intros keep being awesome. Great work
Cheers! 🙏
Had the same issue when pairing my EC90 cranks to a Rotor 386EVO BB. Luckily I have a lathe at work so made a thick spacer.
your style is great: amusing and very informational at the same time. I really hope you get a lot more subs
Rich Fi thanks mate! 🙏
@@ridesofjapan Just subbed after this vid, very informational and funny indeed!
Very helpful. Pressed fit bbs put me off given the common issue of bb creak. Also difficult to change out. But the bike I'm interested in has a bb30. This video helped me rethink whether to go ahead with a bike with pressed fit. Thanks.
Loving the content, the editing and the humour. Subscribed!
Cheers mate! 🙏
I am SOOOO pleased that you found token NINJA PF BBs. I've used them a few times now and cannot rate them high enough. Also the alignment is so accurate that I made a video of the installed cranks being spun up to high speed using just the home air compressor. NINJAs give you watts.....!!!!!
I went through pretty much the same thing, now I use a Token Ninja (with a DUB crank) and it works great. I also used a Wheels MFG (Shimano GXP) on another bike, also without problems. Great stuff!
I have an Uno Ceramic BB on my gravel bike with this same sleeve threaded system and it has been amazing so far. I'm so glad I don't have to whack my carbon bike with a hammer or fiddle around with press fit tools to service my BB.
Love the nerdery LOL Excellent and informative for a BSA & ITA user running Shimano Hollow Tech.
Wow high quality content - keep it up and those subs are bound to go up!
Cheers mate!🙏
love your videos. I just changed my pressfit bottom bracket and my screwed on bottom bracket. I must say that the installation with the screwed bottom bracket (BBR60) is way easier. With the pressfit I had to ask a friend of mine who had more "balls" to hammer it out...However, my pressfit bottom bracket (dura ace quality) lasted for over 30.000 km!!! and I never had single problem. When I changed it I saw hardly any dirt in the shell or around it. I was almost dead-clean. Impressive! The screwed bottom bracket on the other hand, I had to change every 10.000km (105 quality...) I think that new "technology" that you just used uses the advantages of both worlds. So I am excited to see some progress in that area. Changing your bottom bracket everzy 10k is not really much fun.... For me that would be twice a year and that just sucks.
I'm in. Loved this vlog as a perpetual meddler in trying to remove creaks from my press fits. I elect you El Presidenti of Bottom Brackets and lets all get back to threads.
President of bottom brackets... I can't handle that kind of pressure 😂
Very informative and entertaining! Great stuff once again!
😘
That secret ‘grease’ looks much like Morgan Blue aquapaste, a marine waterproof grease, which I love to use as it stays in place and is totally waterproof
Loving all your videos from Osaka. Keep them coming👍
one of my fav intro to your vids
I really like your all contents..! Hope you upload some more often :) -from Korea
Thanks mate! 🙏
This video earned my subscription. Thank you for sharing your experience. There are tons of things cyclist do but dont say. You said everything there was about bottom bracket press-fit. Despite the hammering have creaped me out a little bit.
Cheers mate! 🙏
Excellent vid as always! Hope PF41 is also for 30mm, they supply a spacer with the BB. These spacers are also sold separately as PF41 Hope Spacers. (Used it when switching from a Raceface BB to a Hope BB).
Awesome mate! Will take a look at those, Cheers for that! 👍
I like the idea of the bearing design to replace the PressFit style BB. I have a older Cervelo R3 frame which was equipped with the GXP style BB and In my personal opinion it's still the best BB style to date, still light and stiffer than my BB30 PressFit on my 2012 Venge.
10:37 - Cap peak/helmet looking 👌
I really enjoyed the well directed and produced pressfit escapade video! However I have to say that to this day, I've never had any issue with any of my Cannondale bikes that had BB30, BB30A, PF30A. They all worked flawlessly. A couple of weeks ago I replaced the bearings on my SuperSix Evo while keeping the old aluminium cups, which I pressed back again, after removing them, in order to remove the bearings (with FSA branding) that after about 20.000 km needed replacement. For the record, the new bearings are the top quality SKF 61806 2RS1.
Can you give the link for the skf bearings? Thank you
Thanks for the info. Personally I’m using a puller for the BB30 and cups. But if that failed, then I would tap it out with a rubber mallet and the Park tool.
Was made aware of your channel by Shane miller, loving the channel, you have a new subscriber!
Cheers mate!
I owe Shane a drink or two for sure.
Running the Token Ninja BB86 on my Time frame w no issues for 2 years now. Good design and quality bearings.
Good to know, this far it’s been very happy with it. Cheers! 👍
Totally felt your pain when you were adding the shims! Why?!?!??!! Great vid though thanks for sharing, I'm about to replace my pressfit with something similar from Hope. Fingers crossed!
I like the honest review!
You save the day again, thank you. Was looking for the ultimate answer to "what do i put on a PF BB before install?", saw your Wako thing, went down a quick rabbit hole, came out the other end with Liquid Moly 3312, a German equivalent to your thing here, apparently (as per people on weight weenies). It cost me 10 eur (I'm in Europe), let's see if that works. Thanks!
Imagine my horror, after many many years riding a mountain bike fitted with a threaded bottom bracket to find my new road bike is fitted with a press fit bb30 bottom bracket!. I had to replace my crank with shorter crank arms, I replaced the oval concepts crank for a Sram force 22 crank only to find I had to also replace the bottom bracket. Steep learning curve resulted in fitting a (cheap)Sram bb30 press fit. I wasn’t happy with the Sram bb it just didn’t look or feel right when turning the cranks. So I found that BBinfinite made a one piece bottom bracket (very expensive) with ceramic bearings. I hated having to use a hammer on a carbon bike to remove the old bb, but it survived and I’ll never have to do that again. The Sram preload thingy had enough travel without extra spacers, no worries. Not only is the new one piece bb easy to fit, it’s CERAMIC BEARINGS. Not sure it’s any lighter weight wise. Not that I’m worried about a few grams as I’ve lost 11kg in body weight over the last two months.
Watching your rather well made videos is not good for the cycling obsessed addicts, it should carried a warning for the wallet. Thanks so much for making your videos.
Very good video. Thanks!
Love the digital torque wrench 👍👍👍👍👍
Built a couple of Chinese carbon frames up with GUB pf-30 bb ceramic and although the bb is a bit on the heavy side they run smooth and iv had no issues at all very easy to install and remove I am sure most of the problems people have are down to poor installation.
Love the videos keep up the good work!
I agree, I think a lot of problems comes from questionable installation methods... which is why I think theses types of thread-together BB's makes it a bit harder to mess up.
Cheers!
i had the opposite issue, with the same cranks, the preload thing was too large without shims, jamming the bearings similar to how you had your cranks set up before with it completely removed. i then sanded down the thread of the preload thing until it spinned freely. got perfect preload without adjustment now.
Just installed a Hambini one-piece BB on my bike as the Rotor BB initially installed was creaking and ended up with a prematurely worn non-drive side bearing. Smooth spinning!
Is hambini the best?
Not seen better yet. Bikeshop that installed it was super impressed by the quality as well.
@@colinvanwijk5731 Hambini ftw. the dude knows his shit.
Does he make custom ones? I have a carbon BMX frame.
@@WideOpenChange yes he does. You can even send him the frame and he’ll make a video about it as well.
Wheel man hooked me up with best bb ever.
BB creaks, actually isn't the bearings but friction between bearing shell and the bike frame, I changed mine for BB infinite, now the ride is like a butter, great video, thank you! V!
Verdon Rocks Photography I have a synapse (bb30a) and was looking at the bb infinite. Can I use my existing cranks with it? I saw option to convert to 24mm Shimano but my FSA cranks still working fine. Trying to limit cost.
@@JohnLozano I changed mine 2 years ago and they are coming always w new sizes just to keep up with evolution of bike industry. They have awesome customer service just shoot them the question and they answer you soon as possible, usually 12-24 hours. The products are great , you would not be disappointed, cheers V!
pressfit bb's is good for the first bb install. The problem is when replace the bearings, that's when the shell may expand a tad but just enough to allow bearings to creak
Piece of soft wood gives piece of mind while hammering cups out
Good idea. I'll be removing my Campagnolo PF30 cups soon, and will use wood as well.
Just bought a Token BB86 before seeing this video, and was wondering if it was a waste of money. I haven't fitted it yet but am now a tad more happy with the purchase - it sounds like a good idea in the blurb.
Race face makes a ton of aluminum spacers for cinch setups. They come in a bunch of widths. I had to use several with my Next SLs.
Awesome cheers! 👍
can't wait for my new cx bike with T47 bb
I just installed the Easton BB on my Open bike! Exact same issue , hardly one revolution 😐.. haven’t ridden it outside yet! on the bright side, this video ... thanks for posting,
That’s a bit worrisome to hear that it wasn’t only my Easton BB. Good luck though!
Cheers!
@@ridesofjapan My Easton BB does the same with my EC90 SL on my Open. It was okay with a Wheelsmfg BB and very smooth with the original SRAM BB I used in the initial build when I first swapped out the crank. I'll probably swap back to a cheap SRAM or another threaded like the Token.
Clifton Archuleta cheers for the report!
Seems like this is definitely an issue with the bb itself.
Token are such an underrated component maker, Never had any issues with their BBs Great value.
Good to know, this is my first Token so I hope you're right! So far so good :)
Good to know. I am using their BB90 BB.
@@Methodical2 yeah I just installed bb86 to my frame let see after a while
@@Methodical2 Hi! I have a bb90 on my Madone and if it rains or I sweat too much the moisture destroys the bearings! How well do you believe the Token Ninja will keep out the elements? My previous bearings were Enduro and F-1 ceramic. Thanks!
Great video, thank you.
I guess so nervous doing stuff like this as well... but heck looks like you got it cause it works fine after much fiddling :-)
Great stuff, love your attitude towards things to do with bikes!!
I have the Specialized Tarmac, with bb386
On and no problems so far, (knock on wood)
That Open Up bike you have is uffff, the geometry, the color, just wonderful in my eyes!
But deary me!! Those 8 grams!!! Lol
I know... of course I already stared to look for this 8g elsewhere ;)
Cheers mate!
Heat the bottom bracket area with a blow dryer ( not to close to the paint though) then use a cold air compressor inside the metal shell of the old bottom bracket. Take your press fit tool and push it out, you may need to heat and cool it a couple of times. You are heating the carbon fiber area around the bottom bracket to make it a bitsoft, then the cool air compressor air on the metal shell will contract the shell due to the heat and cold differences. This contraction allows it to be removed much easily, the Carbon will be fine as it cools quickly.
Love your video’s, look forward to what will come up with in the intro!
I had major creaking with my carbon frame and Shimano PFBB. Switched to a Wheels Mfg and total silence!
I think Chris King makes a BB like the Token?
I think Chris king’s thread-fit is for a different bottom bracket type... need to look into more.
Cheers!
Same problem and more for me on a MTB BB when using the Wheels thread in system for 30mm spindles. First the NDS cup was not a press fit, and not even really an exact fit. I know we need movement to spin these things to get them tight, but the solution to press fit BBs isn't to make them even more likely to more by making them loose. Second the cup surface is too narrow. Again I see the struggle when adding threaded parts to a already very narrow system, but it was very sketchy to get them torqued down (without a torque spec I might add). Sadly, after a few rides I had noise and movement again and the only solution was to redo the whole thing and then tighten the sketchy mess even more. Finally, to add insult to poor design, the adjustment collar didn't have enough range so a spacer was needed. Of course if you want even spacing that is really two spacers, one thin one on each side. I called and asked for Wheels solution ... you guessed it, use a lame wave washer on a crank set that has a proper adjusting collar anyway. What a mess. I'm sad to see your solution, that looked better initially, ended up with some of the same challenges. I hope it at least works out good for you ... I plan to try a Praxis next.
Way to show up on top of your game with another excellent video for all to enjoy. I'm running the Enduro TorqTite BB, (very nice product) in my U.P.P.E.R. with the Easton cranks, (1X). The deep pain I feel putting those cheesy shims on my spindle, dreadful! It's just dumb trying to achieve proper chainline and keeping the cranks centered to the frame with stacks of shims, not possible actually with Easton chainrings. Doubt my body can tell the difference but attempting perfection when assembling my bicycle makes me happy inside.
On another note... I'm on my third set of Easton EC90 cranks in just 800 miles, the aluminum inserts are coming loose on the drive side, frustrated, to say the least.
Yeah, I’ve read about the chainline “issue”, but can’t say I’ve experienced any problem when it come to shifting at least.... would a third party ring improve things in that regard? 🤔
Sorry to hear about the inserts... I keep checking mine from time to time, still going strong luckily.
Cheers!
@@ridesofjapan A call to Easton, or Wolftoof, (just teasin) and we could probably get the chainline issue sorted for the Easton/UP combo. Maybe the 6 degree offset puts it on target, not sure. I set my bike up with the correct chainline and sacrificed the centering just to see if it shifted any better, I think it did a little. I'm going to surrender the Easton cranks so I'll find something new to obsess about. All the best my friend.
Out with the new in with the old! As a tourer and mechanic I always prefer, Threaded BB, circular seat posts, spd pedals and j bend spokes. Internal cables and electronic shifting is on the fence. Let the debate being.
For touring that definitely sound like an ideal configuration 👍
I like the mock scowl, upon finding the Token 8 whole grams heavier than the Easton - or, one whole healthy mouth of spit! The canister concept was the clearly superior BB when Shimano introduced it. I recall having to tear down and regrease the open Campy bearings after one rainstorm; one backpedal revolution would pull grit into the bearings via the "rifleing" in the outer cup opening, whereas I've had the sealed unitized BB can last over 16 years on my MTB, and still indicate no wear. The can locks the left and right bearings in perfect planar alignment, with the frame threads merely positioning the can. The cart-before-the-horse theory about lightening BB systems focused on the hollow, large diameter crank that reduced significant weight, but regressed badly with external bearings which were exposed, and worse, never parallel because the BB shell was not properly, critically threaded nor faced. The deformable material in this new system that contacts the frame during installation makes sense, to maximize the contact for minimal movement and squeaking thereafter, as the can is supposed to create and maintain the bearing alignment.
The race-driven design flaws cater to oddities like weight limits (but add half pound batteries for elec. shifting) but cost or durability isn't a concern as your team mechanic will just rebuild or replace overnight. Marketing hype sells customers what the Pros ride, disregarding real value or utilitarian functionality, and even worse, cascade new problems that in turn demand new design solutions, and so on - see the trend? Expensive carbon rims are a huge riim brake fail, hence disc brakes forced upon road bikes that work fine with alloy rims. Etc.
Press fit in idea is great. But the miss match of our of spec just seems to be more then alot of brands can consistently keep in tight spec. So the move back to threaded bbs may be a welcome change
Great video!
always use the wavy washer, it helps to keep constant tension on the threads, those threaded preload are not reliable
Shimano pressfit is the best of pressfit designs in my opinion. why? The bearings sit in the resin cups which have a high tolerance for bb shell imperfections. The disadvantage is that under power, the resin cups actually compress and are thus less stiff than metal ones and definitely less stiff than a traditional threaded bb. I will only buy threaded bb frames.
Also, the wavy washers might seem to add bearing friction since they are a hack for providing bearing preload, but over a short time the washer crushes to the correct preload and it should be smooth. Yes, a more expensive and complex threaded system of bearing preload is more ideal, but it adds cost to the design.
7:57 That plastic preloader is wful I reccomend cane creek preloader, it will work for this cranknan, as it's using 30mm.
You should try the Hambini BB's at some point. I wouldn't say they are cheap but they are durable, super smooth, and lightweight
one piece BB requires the frame to have very high tolerance, those cheap Open frame does not
What a coincidence, I just went with threadfit BB about a week ago. I picked Wheels MFG one for Shimano and for a good part of the video I was wondering why haven't Token provided dust covers along with the spacers... but then - you recycled the old ones :)
Looking at replacing my stock BB30A bracket on my new Cannondale SystemSix. Any recommendations and is it as easy as it looks removing and installing a new one. The cranks are Hollowgram Si.
Great videos, thanks for all the tips on disc brakes 👍
Hi, you do not need to use the wave washer. This piece is used on the BB30, BB386EVO crankset. In short, all the pedals have no adjustment for the game bearing. It serves to compress the bearings to correct a possible game. For my part, I had a similar piece with a crankset FSA Mega Exo. The bottom bracket did not even last 3000km ... Finally replaced by a sram crankset, to suit the rest of my groupset. The axis is a GXP (the most misunderstood standard) mounted on a Sram BSA bottom bracket. The standard comes back little by little, especially with the T47 that craftsmen use a lot with Chris King bearings. The pressfit causes a lot of problems and the change of the latter can damage the frame.
It seems to me that I also had to make a return on the Rohloff chain oil. It is a very good oil. It holds well, does not blacken and dust adheres little on it. Finally, as long as the oil is well dosed and wiped.
Please keep us posted on how this works. I'm really curious to hear how these "twistfit" bottom brackets work over the long run (not that I have any specific reason to think they should not work).
Will do for sure! As long as there no new video on it, you can take it as it is working without issue.
For the record we have installed a similar Praxis version on a friends bike and it been flawless for 2 seasons now.
@@ridesofjapan Hehe, no news is good news.
Good to hear. I'm not sure I can stand pressing in another BB, it's nerve racking...
I think I'm the only person who misses the old-school one piece cranks with ball bearings on each side with a simple nut holding everything together.. Simple easy to take apart and work on.
Here's some tips in case someone google this video or found this here,my Bike is Open U.P, Im using the Token Ninja,the same BB on this video.my crankset is Sram Force BB30 + PF30 (the latest version longer spindle) these are the spacers that Ive used. for Non drive side (1 wave washer and One 2mm spacer) for Drive side(single 1.5mm spacer) ,all these spacers are included when you buy the craknset.The pre-load adjuster is not needed you can keep it..I maxed the bolt to 54NM as per Sram recommendation and it spin perfectly and the wave washer has enough bend and not flat.Thanks Tobias.
I would try to find spacers that space out the thread fit cups away from the frame a couple mm each side. Keep the bearings as far outboard as possible.
That’s another way to do it for sure!
Cheers! 👍
Easton EC90SL + C-Bear for BBRIGHT in a Cervelo R5 Disc - Same thing, needed 2,5mm for the preload collar to work. Funny enough, had the same issue with the Easton Cinch Bottom Bracket. But i guess you cannot compare Ceramic Bearings with Steel Bearings.
Good to know! Cheers!
I have a Titanium Litespeed bike with a PF30 to 24mm style BB. You don't get any issues like you do with Carbon or aluminium and many of the BBs available now are the 2 part threaded type. I don't really need to be too brutal with the hammer on the frame, it's more a process of slowly tapping the BB out.
I have a Litespeed also, a T1 with PF30, and so far haven't had an issues with my BB. I'm only at 11,000km on the odometer so far, but I'll keep my fingers crossed. I am not sure just yet, but when it comes time, I'll likely use the same PF30 cups as I now have since switching to threaded will require the purchase of tools which are quite expensive.
I also have a Litespeed, T2 with PF30. It’s the first bike I’ve had the has picked up a creak from the PFBB. Well, I’m not 100% sure it’s the BB but everything points to that. I need to get Tobias over to mine and get him to have a look at it 👍🏻
@@1977markfielding Tobias made a video of troubleshooting creaks that got mine sorted out after following his advice. Luckily it wasn't my PF30.
"Doh!" I found that the creak is my PF30 BB. Ordered a new one from Wiggle for US$30.
This bb thread fit I think is better than the wheels mfg kit because of those plastic ends will help against noise. Mine creak so I'm gonna try your brake paste solution and see what happens.
I use a similar component on my SL5 the “BB 4224” from Rotor. Smooth, silent and stiff - highly recommended!
Also, the “BBT-30.4” from Parktool makes the terrifying job of hammering out the old bearings a little less terrifying.
HOPE makes really good thread-fit BBs. They are on pricier side, but still very good value compared to other brands.
Yeah, there’s a good amount of really nice and Expensive bbs out there. I look at BB as chains, then will be replaced sinner or later so I rather not spend a fortune on them.
@@ridesofjapanThe HOPE BB is about half the price of the Enduro BB and the bearings are replaceable, so it isn't too bad once the initial investment has been made.
@@normanzielke6108 That's a good deal for sure!
Most BB's with metal sleeves should be able to have the bearings replaced... Hopefully still a few months before I need to worry about that though :)
Methinks you gonna be a good serious type of a stand up comedian....
Preload collars are by design intended to replace wave washers, so having both is really a dirty hack just to get rid of lateral play. If the spacers don't add up to enough, you shouldn't be using wave washers, but get bigger spacers instead. What you're doing in your first attempt is using the preload collar as a mere big spacer, and the wave washer is the part that actually provides the (somewhat unknown) preload to the bearings
Dude, not sure if it was already mentioned but there are Easton/Raceface (I think the cinch system was originally from Raceface) spacer kits available, e.g. Easton 8022608. They are available in multiple combinations of "thickness". You should be able to solve your spacing issue with some of these. Further does Hope also supply interesting brackets for PF41/46. They have to be pressed in, but the cups also have a threaded inner part which pretty much preloads the system and secures it in place. P.S. I ordered some WAAAAKO from Japan which is now stuck in customs in Frankfurt Airport (I live in Munich) 🤨😅
Awesome mate! Cheers for that, will look that spacer kit eventually 👌
You didn't weigh the Easton bearing cover vs the shims? What if there's a 1/2 gram difference😱
I was too scared to weight them 😱
@@ridesofjapan Don't be afraid of the TRUTH
👍 wave washers are a pre-historic solution
Threaded BBs are so underrated...
I've noticed that many of the so called "cheap Chinese Carbon" frames are coming with Threaded bottom brackets over Press in types. Smart move on their part.
Square tapered cartridge bottom brackets are so under rated. They last a lifetime compared to some of these modern designs.
@@richardmiller3808 I always felt that the transition to PF was always a marketing ploy. The same companies that said that PF was the best and newest thing are now all switching back to BSA or some new threaded alternative.
@@butch7663 because they tried to use press fit as a cost savings. if they had fixtured and maintained tolerances correctly press-fit is more robust. Threaded bottom brackets are a slip fit which can also allow for movement and noise. Automotive uses press fit for similar applications and executes it correctly. The engineering and manufacturing I've seen from the bike industry leaves alot to be desired, especially when they charge $3-5K USD for a frameset and don't bother to QC it.
I use this cheap gxp BB from sram - they great. I don't like press fit...
I have a creaking bottom bracket on my Chinese carbon frame, it just sound when I pedal down from the drive side. I have ordered the ninja bottom bracket you have shown in the video hoping this solve my problem. Thanks a lot for your video. Cheers from Ecuador.
Hope you get it sorted, Good luck!
@@ridesofjapan Thanks Mate! BTW Your vids are Awesome!
Hi, what are the brand of sunglasses you’re wearing at the end of the video.
Great video again btw. 👍
Cheers!
Glasses are Oakley ev zero stride prizm
amzn.to/2K8xfjA
My new Gravel bike have Bsa
What's old will now be new again. Never had a press fit bike....never had an issue.
They're not engineered by the devil but by Cannondale ;)
😂
pressfit BBs rule!
@@rollinrat4850 Somehow cheap Chinese made "crap" OEM frames have better alligment and tolerances of BB's and are a lot less likely to creak than Cannondale frames. Don't blame Chinese, blame Cannondale.
I'll ride the devils' BB before I put modern Cannondale engineering on my bike.
I'll just wait for the threaded bottom bracket frame to come out. Really surprised OPEN went with press fit I was considering their frame as an upgrade. Too bad.
I can't speak for Open, but there's a good reason for using the BB386 specifically, and that is because you get a much wider bottom bracket shell, this is important on the Open UP to get the tire clearance and still keep the chain stays short. It would be a lot harder to achieve this with a BSA threaded BB as the shell would only be 68mm wide instead of 86mm.
The threaded T47 BB fixes that limitation, but I don't think that standard was finalized when the Open UP was designed.
I'd be very interested to see what they go with in future models.
@@ridesofjapan Thanks for the reply! I currently have BB386 on my Crux and it hasn't given me any trouble but I barely touch it. I just want this "perfect" frame to combine all the best the industry has to offer. An Up frame with a T47 would be amazeballs.
I agree! Seem like very logical upgrade, time will tell... finger crossed 🤞
Since you mentioned the Mason in this video and I'm not sure, if I have missed it in your other videos. What was the reason for swapping it with the Open?
I wasn’t really happy with it as road bike, especially in the mountains. It not design to be that either so it’s not a fault of the bike. For gravel adventure it’s pretty damn sweet!
Commenting on this video of yours late, but I'm only now looking for a new frame/bike. Seems the Look 785 with the 105 group comes with this, BB PF 86.5 / Token ninja TF 841. So your video gives me a bit of confidence after reading about all the carbon frames with press fit bb's and the possible creaking that can develop. This one comes with the ultegra level group BB PF 86.5 / Token ninja SRAM DUB.
Honestly, before the covid-19 pandemic I was thinking to buy a Ritchey Road Logic frame and build that myself. I like the old threaded bottom bracket and steel frames. Today I'm wanting to support Look, buy a bike from them, cause I live in france and think to support the local economy. Thanks for all your videos. Stay safe.
Are you riding on the track from Osaka to Kyoto? I remember riding there.
Parrish James nope, have never ridden in either Osaka or Kyoto
My Specialized OSBB Ceramic speed isn't much more expensive and it spins about 20 revolutions before stopping. If you really want the smooth rolling, it's not cheap.
Ceramic bearings are a hoax. Check it Hambini engineering for a scientific breakdown.
Wow! in Japan!
Hi folks. How happy was I when I went for in a ride after my new token ninja bb had been installed. The happiness did not last long though. I just got a horrible creaking noise coming out after quite hilly ride last week 😬. After dismantling the chainring I noticed quite a bit of rusty spots on a non drive side of bb - where bearings contact the cups. Contacted a seller and see what will be their response to this issue. Was hoping this item will cure my problem with creaks but was so wrong 😑
Did you get a response?
I like that camouflage jersey. Where did you get it from?
I used Token's BB90 BB when I built my Emonda. I had issues with my '12 Madone BB and now have to use the V2 bearings. I did not want to have to go this route with my Emonda and wanted a BB that was housed in cups and tied together within the frame (threaded) and Token was the only player in town. Happy with the decision. Btw, I do believe this is the 1st review I've seen of Token on UA-cam. Subscribed. Waiting for update.
Methodical2 cheers mate!
Jersey is from www.voidcycling.com
@@ridesofjapan Thanks
Methodical2 I also ordered the token ninja bb90, for my emonda. I expect to receive it next weak .later I realized that I also need the token tool to install it. What tool did you use to thread it in the frane? Totay ive placed an order for Token Ninja BB Tool 24mm Trek BB90/BB95 V3. I hope this is what i need.
@@mihaimacarie Hi I too have Trek a with the BB90 bottom bracket. How did the token work out for you on the Emonda?
e 511 keV hy! I have to wait until next week to find out. The token ninja bb will arive in a fiew days, but i’m gone in a short holyday until the end of the weak. For the special tool i think i have to wait more. I just ordered yesterday and the delivery time from uk to romania is more than 7 days..i will replay after i put my hands on them
So looks like I have similar setup and recently installed that token bb. What's your impression of it? Bearings sounding hollow after about 100 miles (mostly wet) but have a similar ocd clean, dry process.
Mike Hayes no issues what so ever, still super smooth. I always try to be reasonably carful when washing the bike around the BB.
Sounding hollow after only 160k definitely feels strange though 🤔
Hey Tobias. Funny to see you stumbled into the same problem as i did when i installed my Easton EC90 crankset( I paired it up with FSA MegaEvo BSA 30 BB this is treaded..) I however put 5mm spacers on each side in-between the frame and the BB. :D
Good to know!
Seems like it’s pretty common then, cheers!
the helmet and cap fit so well together. which met helmet and what cap are those?
Helmet is a Trenta, not sure on cap
Yes, helmet is the Met Trenta, cap is from void cycling
One question: is the OPEN BB shell made by carbon or is there a plastic shell melted in?
I am thinking of getting the Token Ninja from my BB86 BB. Would you still recommend it? Thanks
The bike industry is hilarious. It's effingly effing hilarious.
many consumer products do the same. almost all of them are schemes to drain your money into their pockets through proprietary tech. One of the best examples in history is Apple. I try to avoid products that don't follow major industry standards but sometimes it's unavoidable.
@@littlegoobieOther side of that is companies that bring new 'standards' often times bring a lot of innovation. Think about how many things apple has brought to the table and other companies copied. Sure there may be some annoying propriety things from time to time but not every company is deliberately out to create planned obsolescence - butr there are enough mtbers out there with tinfoil hats that think so.
@@littlegoobie To be completely honest, if all the companies were only sticking to major industry standards, we'd still be using QR skewers and cantilever brakes. Besides, many things in the bike industry have not actually been standardised, at least not in the sense that companies sat together and came up with a manufacturing method they could all agree on.
For example, there's no standard on chainstay width in regards to crank length, meaning that there are rare examples of frame/crank combos where the cranks collide with the chainstays.
Likewise, there is no standard on tubeless rim profiles and tyre beads, so to this day, some rim/tyre combos work better than others as tubeless.
Same goes for rear shocks - many have been complaining about the new metric standard, but the reality is that before, there actually wasn't any agreed upon standard whatsoever, just new products conforming to the already available ones.
Manufacturers do not benefit in any way from multiple standards, they don't introduce them just because and they're definitely not a good way of selling new products.
Pressfit isn't actually a terrible design, but many manufacturers just don't feel like sticking to the tight tolerances. For this reason, I completely disregard any frame that has a pressfit standard. There are plenty of options that are threaded.