- To simplify via CONSOLIDATING COPLANAR TRIANGLES... --- Method 01: 'Split Body', then 'Combine(join)': automagically consolidates many triangles (sometimes, and to some degree). --- Method 02: With Timeline/history off, in 'SURFACE' context tab, do 'Merge' (w/ 'Select Chain' active), select single face... accept w/ 'OK'. Repeat, if necessary. *Remember to turn Timeline back on.
@@billyspears396and that’s why I asked for an example… Prismatic conversion would not improve the performance. Parametric CAD is simply the wrong tool for an octopus lol
If you are uploading a design, please upload the STEP file as well. If you are feeling extra generous, upload the native design file from your CAD program too. It helps everyone who wants to remix.
How long did it takd you to print your multiboard tiles, did you print them stacked or single? Curious to know how fast you printed that size tile with a .6 nozzle. Thanks.
I originally printed my tiles on a CR10, with a 0.4mm nozzle and I saw print times around 11 hours, when switched to a 0.6mm nozzle and adjusting wall thickness to match I got print times under 9 hours. These are with 9x9 tiles. However, with my X1 Carbon print times look like under 4 hours for a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer height and under 3 hours for a 0.6mm nozzle with 0.3mm layer height (2 walls to match the total 0.12mm thickness recommended). Another commenter mentioned that he tweaked his settings a bit and was able to get print times under 2 hours with a 0.6mm nozzle in his X1 Carbon with minor artifacts that he was comfortable with. I did not print my tiles stacked, with the original ~9 hour print time it wasn't really worth it, but with print times closer to 3 hours it would be worth considering so you could run an overnight print.
An aside, Multiboard REALLY should make a version for 0.6mm nozzles. As you said we could save a LOT of time using 0.6mm AND the prints would be stronger.
You can print them with a 0.6mm nozzle now! The designer of Multiboard recommends 3 layers with a 0.4mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2mm. 3x0.4=1.2mm wall thickness. I printed all of my tiles with a 0.6mm nozzle and 2 perimeters (2x0.6=1.2mm). At least for the tiles you don't need a model change, you can just change them in the slicer and print with a 0.6mm nozzle. On my Creality printers (CR10 and Ender3) it saved an enormous amount of time printing with the 0.6mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height and I don't see any issues in the prints at all. The biggest time saver is the tiles because they are the biggest parts. And there is no reason you can't print the other parts at 0.4 or 0.6 depending on what you want. The only issue I saw was the front edge and that's really me being picky, the parts were entirely functional. It is on my todo to post these modified parts as remixes In case anyone else is as picky as I am.
@@JohnVanderbeck Yes, that's how I printed mine, and I'm happy with the result. I'm sure you are well aware that generally the rule of thumb is half the nozzle width is your "optimal" layer height. So for 0.6mm that would normally be 0.3mm. In the slicers, however, they give you a bit of a range around that, for 0.4mm nozzle 0.12mm to 0.28mm isn't uncommon. In order to preserve the detail I decided to lower the number of walls to the wall thickness would be identical and keep the layer height at 0.2mm to maintain the vertical resolution. The only thing you are giving up is the time savings of 0.3mm per layer vs 0.2mm per layer. If you wanted to experiment with optimizing the print time further, I'd suggest printing out the Multiboard 4x4 tile with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height as well as with a 0.2mm layer height and determine if you personally find the tradeoff acceptable.
@@buildtestbuild So I did some tests on my Bambu X1 Carbon. Swapped to the 0.6mm nozzle and did one 8x8 core tile with your recommended settings. Print time 2h31m. Compared it to the "proper" tile and couldn't see any difference. Tested a few screw ins and snaps and everything worked. 2h31m vs 3h10m with the 0.4mm nozzle and suggested settings. But of a savings. Then I did another test with the 0.6mm nozzle and just the normal "standard" bambu profile which is 0.3mm layer height and 2 walls. Only change I made was to set seams to random. Everything else stock settings. Again compared this to the originals and there was only a SLIGHT issue on the top layer where there are the occasional pinholes around the joints of the small holes. Very tiny, really just cosmetic and you wouldn't notice from a distance. Again everything functionally worked. Print time now 1h49m! So with this setting I can basically print two 8x8 tiles in the time it originally took me to print one. I think like you said, just print all the other stuff with the 0.4mm nozzle, but for cranking out the likely hundreds of tiles I will need, this is much faster.
@@JohnVanderbeck that's an awesome result! Thank you for sharing with the community so others can benefit from your test as well. For anyone out there planning a multiboard build, definitely consider using a 0.6mm nozzle for at least your tiles.
That is very strange, I just tested this on Fusion version 2.0.19966 x86_64 and it did generate the different color groups. Perhaps try it again on a different part with more angles and facets?
- To simplify via CONSOLIDATING COPLANAR TRIANGLES...
--- Method 01: 'Split Body', then 'Combine(join)': automagically consolidates many triangles (sometimes, and to some degree).
--- Method 02: With Timeline/history off, in 'SURFACE' context tab, do 'Merge' (w/ 'Select Chain' active), select single face... accept w/ 'OK'. Repeat, if necessary. *Remember to turn Timeline back on.
Yes please YESSSS more multiboard part in parametric in fusion!!!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Finally, A video that is exactly what I want on my youtube feed
This video got you a sub. Looking forward to more on this STL/Fusion coverage.
Making Prismatic a paid option, making highly complex shapes nearly impossible to edit, is such a dick move by Autodesk
I haven’t run into a shape that’s impossible to edit. Example?
@@TheOfficialOriginalChadanything with a lot of triangles. Curves or complex curves.
It takes Fusion forever to think with those parts.
@@billyspears396 hmm. not my experience at all. I get the 10,000 triangle warning all the time, it doesn’t skip a beat.
@@TheOfficialOriginalChad go edit an octopus and let me know how it goes
@@billyspears396and that’s why I asked for an example…
Prismatic conversion would not improve the performance. Parametric CAD is simply the wrong tool for an octopus lol
I've been wondering how to do this properly. Thanks for this!
STL editing is just a nightmare. I'm "glad" others struggle just as much as I do
If you are uploading a design, please upload the STEP file as well. If you are feeling extra generous, upload the native design file from your CAD program too. It helps everyone who wants to remix.
How long did it takd you to print your multiboard tiles, did you print them stacked or single? Curious to know how fast you printed that size tile with a .6 nozzle. Thanks.
I originally printed my tiles on a CR10, with a 0.4mm nozzle and I saw print times around 11 hours, when switched to a 0.6mm nozzle and adjusting wall thickness to match I got print times under 9 hours. These are with 9x9 tiles.
However, with my X1 Carbon print times look like under 4 hours for a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer height and under 3 hours for a 0.6mm nozzle with 0.3mm layer height (2 walls to match the total 0.12mm thickness recommended). Another commenter mentioned that he tweaked his settings a bit and was able to get print times under 2 hours with a 0.6mm nozzle in his X1 Carbon with minor artifacts that he was comfortable with.
I did not print my tiles stacked, with the original ~9 hour print time it wasn't really worth it, but with print times closer to 3 hours it would be worth considering so you could run an overnight print.
An aside, Multiboard REALLY should make a version for 0.6mm nozzles. As you said we could save a LOT of time using 0.6mm AND the prints would be stronger.
You can print them with a 0.6mm nozzle now!
The designer of Multiboard recommends 3 layers with a 0.4mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2mm. 3x0.4=1.2mm wall thickness. I printed all of my tiles with a 0.6mm nozzle and 2 perimeters (2x0.6=1.2mm). At least for the tiles you don't need a model change, you can just change them in the slicer and print with a 0.6mm nozzle. On my Creality printers (CR10 and Ender3) it saved an enormous amount of time printing with the 0.6mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height and I don't see any issues in the prints at all.
The biggest time saver is the tiles because they are the biggest parts. And there is no reason you can't print the other parts at 0.4 or 0.6 depending on what you want. The only issue I saw was the front edge and that's really me being picky, the parts were entirely functional. It is on my todo to post these modified parts as remixes In case anyone else is as picky as I am.
@@buildtestbuild So you kept the same layer height of 0.2mm even with the larger nozzle?
@@JohnVanderbeck Yes, that's how I printed mine, and I'm happy with the result.
I'm sure you are well aware that generally the rule of thumb is half the nozzle width is your "optimal" layer height. So for 0.6mm that would normally be 0.3mm. In the slicers, however, they give you a bit of a range around that, for 0.4mm nozzle 0.12mm to 0.28mm isn't uncommon. In order to preserve the detail I decided to lower the number of walls to the wall thickness would be identical and keep the layer height at 0.2mm to maintain the vertical resolution.
The only thing you are giving up is the time savings of 0.3mm per layer vs 0.2mm per layer. If you wanted to experiment with optimizing the print time further, I'd suggest printing out the Multiboard 4x4 tile with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height as well as with a 0.2mm layer height and determine if you personally find the tradeoff acceptable.
@@buildtestbuild So I did some tests on my Bambu X1 Carbon. Swapped to the 0.6mm nozzle and did one 8x8 core tile with your recommended settings. Print time 2h31m. Compared it to the "proper" tile and couldn't see any difference. Tested a few screw ins and snaps and everything worked. 2h31m vs 3h10m with the 0.4mm nozzle and suggested settings. But of a savings.
Then I did another test with the 0.6mm nozzle and just the normal "standard" bambu profile which is 0.3mm layer height and 2 walls. Only change I made was to set seams to random. Everything else stock settings. Again compared this to the originals and there was only a SLIGHT issue on the top layer where there are the occasional pinholes around the joints of the small holes. Very tiny, really just cosmetic and you wouldn't notice from a distance. Again everything functionally worked. Print time now 1h49m! So with this setting I can basically print two 8x8 tiles in the time it originally took me to print one.
I think like you said, just print all the other stuff with the 0.4mm nozzle, but for cranking out the likely hundreds of tiles I will need, this is much faster.
@@JohnVanderbeck that's an awesome result! Thank you for sharing with the community so others can benefit from your test as well.
For anyone out there planning a multiboard build, definitely consider using a 0.6mm nozzle for at least your tiles.
Great tutorial ❤
Thanks a lot 😀😀😀😀
You're welcome!
Dtrangely, Generate Fave Groups no longer works on my (latest) version of Fusion. It usedto but now does not produce the coloured groups. Weird.
That is very strange, I just tested this on Fusion version 2.0.19966 x86_64 and it did generate the different color groups. Perhaps try it again on a different part with more angles and facets?