Another excellent video Stefan, thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills, I would love to see a video on the machines in your shop. Look forward to see your next upload, thanks, Laurie Smith
Nice being able to make a cutter for a specific purpose. I've done that many times over the years. The TC grinder is great for accurate grinds... Colin ;-)
Stephan. I know it's video is old and you probably don't look at the comments any more but just a thought. If you clamped 4 pieces of shank together to form a square. Then drilled down the end in the middle you would have better location for the carbide and a better joint for the braize. Also if you grind the same clearance top and side and grind the end as you showed .. until you break the sharp corner the tools are neither left or right hand but universal.
Hey Stefan! Absolutely brilliantly explained how you do stuff. I especially like that you specify EVERY detail about your milling operations. This makes it so much easier to understand what you're doing and what setup to use under what circumstances. I'm slowly watching every single video you made, but I have quite a backlog. Keep doing your thing, it's pretty damn amazing! Viele liebe Grüße, Carina
Carina Wilberg Ich antworte einfach mal auf Deutsch ;) Danke, ich versuch zwar die Details zu zeigen, den Kram aber gleichzeitig so kurz zu halten damit man sich es noch ansehen kann ohne einzuschlafen. Deswegen schneide ich grade Fräsbearbeitungen entweder sehr kurz oder lass sie schnell vorlaufen. Danke fürs Vorbeischauen!
Hi Stefan, great video as usual! I love your attention to detail and your originality, which is why I come back for more. All of you videos are incredibly good and interesting. Just wanted to let you know that I appreciate that you make and upload them! :) (P.S. I have an almost exactly the same Oxy-Propane setup in my shed. Small Oxygen bottle like that, and a small Propane BBQ tank. And a similar sized torch. Works a treat!)
mictho100 Thank you very much - Its so nice to hear and see that people actualy like and watch them and alone the sheer number of comments on them I get is absolutely stunning - I have a hard time to keep up answering them (at least most of them :) ). I like the small oxy-propane setup very much, its very handy and works well. The small bottle also lasts quite a while with my little brazing jobs.
In the future you may want to consider milling shallower pockets for the carbide pieces; less than half of the diameter of the carbide piece that you have on hand. You have to grind at least that amount of material off to get a keen cutting edge anyway, but the primary advantage comes from avoiding grinding steel with your diamond wheels. As you probably know, steel interacts with the diamond wheel in a really violent way, and at the point of contact between the diamond particles and the steel the temperature skyrockets. This causes the binders in the diamond wheel to fail and the wheel rapidly wears away. Unfortunately coolant cannot solve the issue. Also if you mounted the endmill with the broken end facing away from the end of the tool, you could save yourself a significant amount of grinding. Love your videos, keep up the excellent work!
cerberus Sometimes a bit of inspiration is everything thats needed...I saw Keith Fenner make tools for his slotting head by brazing HSS bits into a mild steel bar - So I went on and did the same with carbide :) Thanks for commenting!
That is a great use for old carbide endmills. They are very expensive here so I have saved the few I have owned and destroyed. Thank you for the idea. If you want to be really cheap like me, make a tool holder for your used inserts. I resharpen my chipped triangle inserts freehand. I made a special hand held holder smaller than normal so I can use it to hold the insert while grinding it, and not burn my fingers. I only grind two sides so I keep one side as a reference. I made a straight holder with a slight angle, because I grind off the chipbreaker, for the lathe to accommodate my regrinds. Great for interrupted cuts, or any time you have a bad feeling you may break one. I figure if I reuse 1 corner of a $7 insert I save $2.33 . Takes about 5 minutes to do. $2.33 every 5 minutes is close to $28 an hour saved. Thats a lot of money over the years. The inserts seem more durable after being reground.
I had the chance to find old sawmill blades. They had carbide insert 30 mm x 6mm sq. I did something like that It is very usable and not expensive as you say.
Hello Stefan, first video I have seen from you and I like the information you give, also about your brazing rig, I have the standard size of oxygen bottle which last all of about 10 minutes (it seems like to me), and now I have seen your rig and witht he bigger bottle I will have to get one, thanks for the idea.
Glad it helped :) I am still very happy with that 2l bottle - Its getting empty the first time now, got about 2 years of use out of it (shows how lottle brazing/silversoldering I do ;) )
very good information, when you have your own precision diamond grinder its a no brainer!, I am experimenting very razor sharp hi polished inserts for aluminum that seem to work fantastic with free cutting steels too, lots less tool pressure for my little lathe :)
My advice for the high temperature boron flux is vinegar. Maybe I'm missing something and the vinegar is actually damaging my parts, but it actually does a far better job of dissolving the flux than citric acid, yet I've never seen it recommended anywhere. Easier (see: cheaper) to get too, I buy it in big 3 or 4 liter bottles because it's so useful
Hi Stefan, That's a good inexpensive solution for hobby use, and the results are usually great with smaller lathes. For the hobbyist it's heart breaking having to replace a broken $20 insert... Snifff.... Sniffff....!!! :-( So your solution is simple and provides a tool that can be sharpened and configured at will. :-) Good video, Pierre
pierre beaudry I always nearly dropped a tear when I broke a polished and ground insert for machining aluminum :( With milling cutters I dont have many options - Buy curbide endmills and regrind the ends. But I always can make a lathe tool from scratch and hold back the money for milling tools :)
@@StefanGotteswinter I use brazed carbide lathe tools in my turret mill, one at a time, for flycutting (yes I know, it's not endmilling, I guess technically it's side milling). As you well know, but others reading this may not, it's an amazingly cost-effective way of getting a superb finish on large facing cuts. It's a great alternative to needing huge horsepower and hundreds of dollars worth of inserts in a big, scarily expensive face milling holder .
Stephan, love the vid, and thanks for the great content. I am a newbie and wondering what silver wire to use. I see lots of commentary on flux, black vs white, but I am not clear on what wire to buy. I see everything from 5% to 56% silver content. Do you have a recommendation on what works well, what is adequate, etc.? I paused the vid hoping to capture what you used, but I had no luck. In any case, hope you're well and looking forward to your next vid.
I prefer HSS aswell, hate carbide. When you dont need to hold an edge at 10 in diameter for 6ft lol its the way to go. For my small projects i find having a few pieces of cheap Chinese HSS a good thing for aluminum as it grinds alot easier
turbocobra I do a lot of small diameter turning below 10mm and for that I would need very sharp carbide inserts to prevent high cutting pressures - With my own tools I can alter the geometrie exactly how I want :)
Come over to the dark side of inserts, they will save you a ton of time and for most people time is money too. :-) Ebay is a great place to score inserts. I rarely pay more than $1 usd / cutting edge and I can't see spending my time to make them for that. It is neat to see you practicing an old common practice and recycling though!
+bcbloc02 Good comment on the time/money thing :) If I had to make a living by running a lathe, I would absolutely take the time to dive fullon into the world of inserts - But for me literaly playing in my homeshop I dont realy see the need for it (I tried my fair share of inserts and on my lightweight lathe most of them where not to great). With the brazed tools I can grind every geometry I want, put every desired corner radius on it, grind a chipbreaker in them that suits my fancy and practice my toolgrinding-skills :) I absolutely am not an opponent of inserted tools, they are absolute standard in the industry and proven to work millions of times.
Playing with geometry is fun and sometimes finding the right insert for a particular job can be very difficult, so making your own certainly has its advantages.
Hi Stefan, Thanks for the video. What make is your grinder? I have something similar called a Boremasters "TipLap" but they are no longer manufactured. Servus! Wilson.
Just imagine what you could do with an old, broken 1" carbide endmill! :-) Nice way to make the tool. I imagine you could do the same on a smaller scale to make them for boring bars that take square shanked bits.
ILGopher Broken 1" carbide endmill? Drop tears! For some reason I am stuck with small work, so my endmills seldom go over 10mm. Yeah, I did it for boring tools also, it works very fine and one could make very low profile boring bars to get in deep/small holes :) Thanks for droping by and leaving a comment!
Stefan, I purchased a flat bar of carbide. How can I cut it without loosing material? Can I use a skinny diamond wheel? In afraid the heat will damage the wheel. Thanks.
Would you try brazed carbide for the shaper or is it too brittle for an interrupted cut? I just scored an alexander grinder which is an English cooy of the deckle. Now I need to find or make that lathe tool attachment. You and Robrenz are my favorite youtoob metal dudes. I learn so much from you guys. I would like to know more about your little heat treat furnace if you do another shop talk. Keep doing great work!!!
I have pretty good results from interrupted cuts in a lathe using brazed carbide (of a tough grade) - I've even used it to reprofile Burnerd lathe chuck hard jaws -but I guess a planer is another level up when it comes to shock loading. I reckon if you need something harder than (but as tough as) HSS, you should try Stellite (aka Crobalt, Tantung). I know there's an outfit (Eccentric Engineering, IIRC) in Australia which sells Crobalt online at affordable prices and they ship overseas. More info at conradhoffman.com/stellite.htm
Stephan, I enjoyed your video particularly the use of your Chinese Deckel like grinder. I have been considering buying a Grizzly T10814 grinder which looks very similar to your grinder. I would appreciate your looking at the Grizzly site and telling me if you think the Grizzly unit is similar to yours. When you got your grinder did you have to "tune it up" to meet your standards or was it usable out of the box? Danke Schon,
Karl Schuler Hi Karl, I took a look at the Grizzly grinder and it looks absolutely like mine - I bet they all come out of the same backyard in china ;) I didnt do anything to it except for cleaning it and removing about a dozen of safety/warning stickers. Out of the box it was very usable - But also compared to a real Deckel its a bit more rough.
Dag-Fredrik Andersen Yesnomaybeish ;) I had little luck with carbide on my shaper because my machine doesnt have a automatic lifting clapper box - It drags the tool over the work on the return stroke and by doing that the carbide tends to chip. But what I did is brazing pieces of HSS to a mild steel shank to create shaping tools for keyways, that works incredible well - The HSS takes the brazing very well and doesnt loose its hardness (Actually its very hard to soften modern HSS with cobalt).
hello Stefan I'm about to solder a thread cutting tap onto a piece of Steel to cut in a deep hole can I do that without making the tab brittle and what soldering material do you recommend
I like your good old fashioned idea of re-purposing, re-cycling, re-using etc Why waste money to buy something you already have? :>) Have you thought to use one of those tools in a tangential tool holder? With the carbide running longitudinally, one tool will last a couple of life times, well maybe not, but certainly a few years as you only ever sharpen the end.
Chris Stephens I think its Hip again, the make-crowd seems to call it upcycling ;) I am not a big fan of the tangeial toolholders, seeing not a big advantage in them except for the very easy regrinding - Grinding a chipbreaker in the tangential toolholder is pretty hard... But I think they would work also very well in a tangential toolholder :)
Yup a chip breaker would be nice but would ruin the whole point of easy sharpening, unless of course you can come up with a cap style chip breaker. I have to admit an interest in Tangential holders, they are my go-to tool for all materials, except for heavy roughing cuts or where HSS is unsuitable.
Thats some generic bench grinder with 125mm wheels. I put one of those coarse grit diamond wheels from Kaindl on it and use it outdoors for carbide grinding when I have to remove a lot of material.
At 10min 50sec into your video you show the grinding of your carbide/mild steel side face using a diamond cup grinding wheel. I have tried to grind steel (HSS drill) with such a (chinese) wheel but it gummed up quickly. According to general theory you should not use diamond on steel because diamond is pure carbon and the iron and carbon in the steel tends to stick and build up on the diamond surface. Your wheel does not seem gummed up. Is maybe the lower carbon content of cold rolled mild steel better suitable? Did you have any problems with that or have you made observations in this direction?
I think the movement of material is actually the other way round: the carbon of the diamond dissolves in the steel at high temperatures, causing the diamond to break down.
Das war eine Kaindl Sichtschleifscheibe, ich glaub die findet man auf Amazon, ich hab die mal auf einer Messe mitgenommen. Würde ich nicht mehr kaufen, ist viel zu grob und verschleißt sehr schnell.
Thanks for the video. You have given me an idea of howw to make a fly cutter for my Proxxon micromill. Keep these videos coming!
Very nice Stefan! Great re-use of carbide end mills. I like your tool grider, Thanks for sharing.
Another excellent video Stefan, thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills, I would love to see a video on the machines in your shop. Look forward to see your next upload, thanks, Laurie Smith
Great way to use up tooling that has been used up or broken. Very nice job on DIY cutters
Very useful information for hobbyists. Thank you!
Nice set up for brazing.The m-16 ammo pouch is convenient as well.Good video
Nice being able to make a cutter for a specific purpose. I've done that many times over the years. The TC grinder is great for accurate grinds...
Colin ;-)
Stephan.
I know it's video is old and you probably don't look at the comments any more but just a thought.
If you clamped 4 pieces of shank together to form a square.
Then drilled down the end in the middle you would have better location for the carbide and a better joint for the braize.
Also if you grind the same clearance top and side and grind the end as you showed .. until you break the sharp corner the tools are neither left or right hand but universal.
It makes sense to drill four at once! And you're drilling instead of milling, it's more economical all around!
Also, I think that little can is Butane!
Thanks Stefan your videos are very helpful.
Hey Stefan! Absolutely brilliantly explained how you do stuff. I especially like that you specify EVERY detail about your milling operations. This makes it so much easier to understand what you're doing and what setup to use under what circumstances. I'm slowly watching every single video you made, but I have quite a backlog. Keep doing your thing, it's pretty damn amazing!
Viele liebe Grüße, Carina
Carina Wilberg Ich antworte einfach mal auf Deutsch ;)
Danke, ich versuch zwar die Details zu zeigen, den Kram aber gleichzeitig so kurz zu halten damit man sich es noch ansehen kann ohne einzuschlafen. Deswegen schneide ich grade Fräsbearbeitungen entweder sehr kurz oder lass sie schnell vorlaufen.
Danke fürs Vorbeischauen!
Thanks for sharing that--its good info for the hobby machinest who does not want to fix everything with the credit card..
Ian Craig Thanks! To some extend I go with the motto "buying means loosing" - Cant always make everything myself, but I try... :)
Hi Stefan, great video as usual! I love your attention to detail and your originality, which is why I come back for more. All of you videos are incredibly good and interesting. Just wanted to let you know that I appreciate that you make and upload them! :) (P.S. I have an almost exactly the same Oxy-Propane setup in my shed. Small Oxygen bottle like that, and a small Propane BBQ tank. And a similar sized torch. Works a treat!)
mictho100 Thank you very much - Its so nice to hear and see that people actualy like and watch them and alone the sheer number of comments on them I get is absolutely stunning - I have a hard time to keep up answering them (at least most of them :) ).
I like the small oxy-propane setup very much, its very handy and works well. The small bottle also lasts quite a while with my little brazing jobs.
Very interesting topic Stefan.
Cheers
Bengt
In the future you may want to consider milling shallower pockets for the carbide pieces; less than half of the diameter of the carbide piece that you have on hand. You have to grind at least that amount of material off to get a keen cutting edge anyway, but the primary advantage comes from avoiding grinding steel with your diamond wheels. As you probably know, steel interacts with the diamond wheel in a really violent way, and at the point of contact between the diamond particles and the steel the temperature skyrockets. This causes the binders in the diamond wheel to fail and the wheel rapidly wears away. Unfortunately coolant cannot solve the issue. Also if you mounted the endmill with the broken end facing away from the end of the tool, you could save yourself a significant amount of grinding.
Love your videos, keep up the excellent work!
Awesome tooling and recycling 😋
Great video. I had not thought of that but it seems like such a good idea that I am sure at some point I will do the same. Thanks for the video.
cerberus Sometimes a bit of inspiration is everything thats needed...I saw Keith Fenner make tools for his slotting head by brazing HSS bits into a mild steel bar - So I went on and did the same with carbide :)
Thanks for commenting!
Very good idea, Stefan. You made that look pretty easy!
Tom Zelickman I think its not to hard - Just try stuff out :D
That is a great use for old carbide endmills. They are very expensive here so I have saved the few I have owned and destroyed. Thank you for the idea. If you want to be really cheap like me, make a tool holder for your used inserts. I resharpen my chipped triangle inserts freehand. I made a special hand held holder smaller than normal so I can use it to hold the insert while grinding it, and not burn my fingers. I only grind two sides so I keep one side as a reference. I made a straight holder with a slight angle, because I grind off the chipbreaker, for the lathe to accommodate my regrinds. Great for interrupted cuts, or any time you have a bad feeling you may break one. I figure if I reuse 1 corner of a $7 insert I save $2.33 . Takes about 5 minutes to do. $2.33 every 5 minutes is close to $28 an hour saved. Thats a lot of money over the years. The inserts seem more durable after being reground.
absolutely,smart video. real detail...thank you.
I'd imagine you could make radius form tools like this too... a great idea!!
I had the chance to find old sawmill blades. They had carbide insert 30 mm x 6mm sq. I did something like that It is very usable and not expensive as you say.
Hello Stefan, first video I have seen from you and I like the information you give, also about your brazing rig, I have the standard size of oxygen bottle which last all of about 10 minutes (it seems like to me), and now I have seen your rig and witht he bigger bottle I will have to get one, thanks for the idea.
Glad it helped :)
I am still very happy with that 2l bottle - Its getting empty the first time now, got about 2 years of use out of it (shows how lottle brazing/silversoldering I do ;) )
very good information, when you have your own precision diamond grinder its a no brainer!, I am experimenting very razor sharp hi polished inserts for aluminum that seem to work fantastic with free cutting steels too, lots less tool pressure for my little lathe :)
Hi mate.Very smart and cheap.
another video. Thanks for the effort doing the video
great idea, thanks
Dude!! U rock!!!
My advice for the high temperature boron flux is vinegar. Maybe I'm missing something and the vinegar is actually damaging my parts, but it actually does a far better job of dissolving the flux than citric acid, yet I've never seen it recommended anywhere. Easier (see: cheaper) to get too, I buy it in big 3 or 4 liter bottles because it's so useful
Hi Stefan,
That's a good inexpensive solution for hobby use, and the results are usually great with smaller lathes.
For the hobbyist it's heart breaking having to replace a broken $20 insert... Snifff.... Sniffff....!!! :-(
So your solution is simple and provides a tool that can be sharpened and configured at will. :-)
Good video,
Pierre
pierre beaudry I always nearly dropped a tear when I broke a polished and ground insert for machining aluminum :(
With milling cutters I dont have many options - Buy curbide endmills and regrind the ends. But I always can make a lathe tool from scratch and hold back the money for milling tools :)
@@StefanGotteswinter I use brazed carbide lathe tools in my turret mill, one at a time, for flycutting (yes I know, it's not endmilling, I guess technically it's side milling). As you well know, but others reading this may not, it's an amazingly cost-effective way of getting a superb finish on large facing cuts. It's a great alternative to needing huge horsepower and hundreds of dollars worth of inserts in a big, scarily expensive face milling holder .
Stephan, love the vid, and thanks for the great content. I am a newbie and wondering what silver wire to use. I see lots of commentary on flux, black vs white, but I am not clear on what wire to buy. I see everything from 5% to 56% silver content. Do you have a recommendation on what works well, what is adequate, etc.? I paused the vid hoping to capture what you used, but I had no luck. In any case, hope you're well and looking forward to your next vid.
What do you use left hand tools for?
Max Mustermann Hi, when working up to the left side of a shoulder.
great video , hope you have a respirator , its is good you did the grinding outside carbide dust Is really toxic
I did not know that... thanks for the info mate
I prefer HSS aswell, hate carbide. When you dont need to hold an edge at 10 in diameter for 6ft lol its the way to go. For my small projects i find having a few pieces of cheap Chinese HSS a good thing for aluminum as it grinds alot easier
Making your own tools is very satisfying. It also leaves a lot more money in your wallet at the end of the day.
Another good video Stefan, a pleasure to watch! great way to repurpose old end mills. Curious what you don't like about the insert tooling?
turbocobra I do a lot of small diameter turning below 10mm and for that I would need very sharp carbide inserts to prevent high cutting pressures - With my own tools I can alter the geometrie exactly how I want :)
Come over to the dark side of inserts, they will save you a ton of time and for most people time is money too. :-) Ebay is a great place to score inserts. I rarely pay more than $1 usd / cutting edge and I can't see spending my time to make them for that. It is neat to see you practicing an old common practice and recycling though!
+bcbloc02 Good comment on the time/money thing :) If I had to make a living by running a lathe, I would absolutely take the time to dive fullon into the world of inserts - But for me literaly playing in my homeshop I dont realy see the need for it (I tried my fair share of inserts and on my lightweight lathe most of them where not to great). With the brazed tools I can grind every geometry I want, put every desired corner radius on it, grind a chipbreaker in them that suits my fancy and practice my toolgrinding-skills :)
I absolutely am not an opponent of inserted tools, they are absolute standard in the industry and proven to work millions of times.
Playing with geometry is fun and sometimes finding the right insert for a particular job can be very difficult, so making your own certainly has its advantages.
@@bcbloc02 Especially for small diameter stuff, it seems to me that razor-sharp brazed carbide (like solid carbide endmills) has a lot going for it.
If you ground a radius on the end of the broken carbide end mill, you wouldn’t have that nasty gap in the middle of the tool.
Very nice
Ras Thank you!
Hi Stefan,
I want to know about the brazing torch tip you use.
is it the same as the oxy acetylene tip?
Thanks.
Hi Stefan,
Thanks for the video. What make is your grinder? I have something similar called a Boremasters "TipLap" but they are no longer manufactured.
Servus!
Wilson.
Just imagine what you could do with an old, broken 1" carbide endmill! :-)
Nice way to make the tool. I imagine you could do the same on a smaller scale to make them for boring bars that take square shanked bits.
ILGopher Broken 1" carbide endmill? Drop tears! For some reason I am stuck with small work, so my endmills seldom go over 10mm.
Yeah, I did it for boring tools also, it works very fine and one could make very low profile boring bars to get in deep/small holes :)
Thanks for droping by and leaving a comment!
Stefan,
I purchased a flat bar of carbide. How can I cut it without loosing material? Can I use a skinny diamond wheel? In afraid the heat will damage the wheel.
Thanks.
Would you try brazed carbide for the shaper or is it too brittle for an interrupted cut? I just scored an alexander grinder which is an English cooy of the deckle. Now I need to find or make that lathe tool attachment. You and Robrenz are my favorite youtoob metal dudes. I learn so much from you guys. I would like to know more about your little heat treat furnace if you do another shop talk. Keep doing great work!!!
I have pretty good results from interrupted cuts in a lathe using brazed carbide (of a tough grade) - I've even used it to reprofile Burnerd lathe chuck hard jaws -but I guess a planer is another level up when it comes to shock loading.
I reckon if you need something harder than (but as tough as) HSS, you should try Stellite (aka Crobalt, Tantung). I know there's an outfit (Eccentric Engineering, IIRC) in Australia which sells Crobalt online at affordable prices and they ship overseas.
More info at conradhoffman.com/stellite.htm
Stephan,
I enjoyed your video particularly the use of your Chinese Deckel like grinder. I have been considering buying a Grizzly T10814 grinder which looks very similar to your grinder. I would appreciate your looking at the Grizzly site and telling me if you think the Grizzly unit is similar to yours. When you got your grinder did you have to "tune it up" to meet your standards or was it usable out of the box?
Danke Schon,
Karl Schuler Hi Karl, I took a look at the Grizzly grinder and it looks absolutely like mine - I bet they all come out of the same backyard in china ;)
I didnt do anything to it except for cleaning it and removing about a dozen of safety/warning stickers. Out of the box it was very usable - But also compared to a real Deckel its a bit more rough.
Danke fürs zeigen, alle deine Videos sind eine Augenweide, ich stelle immer als Untertitel in deutsch ein, so verstehe ich es
Great video. Do you think this wold work for shaper-tools?
Dag-Fredrik Andersen Yesnomaybeish ;) I had little luck with carbide on my shaper because my machine doesnt have a automatic lifting clapper box - It drags the tool over the work on the return stroke and by doing that the carbide tends to chip. But what I did is brazing pieces of HSS to a mild steel shank to create shaping tools for keyways, that works incredible well - The HSS takes the brazing very well and doesnt loose its hardness (Actually its very hard to soften modern HSS with cobalt).
hello Stefan I'm about to solder a thread cutting tap onto a piece of Steel to cut in a deep hole can I do that without making the tab brittle and what soldering material do you recommend
I've already done it, and it worked great. Thanks for the feedback though.
Good video. Can you tell me what solder that is please? Thanks
Silver solder with cadmium (The good stuff) - Dont breathe it ;)
I like your good old fashioned idea of re-purposing, re-cycling, re-using etc Why waste money to buy something you already have? :>)
Have you thought to use one of those tools in a tangential tool holder? With the carbide running longitudinally, one tool will last a couple of life times, well maybe not, but certainly a few years as you only ever sharpen the end.
Chris Stephens I think its Hip again, the make-crowd seems to call it upcycling ;)
I am not a big fan of the tangeial toolholders, seeing not a big advantage in them except for the very easy regrinding - Grinding a chipbreaker in the tangential toolholder is pretty hard...
But I think they would work also very well in a tangential toolholder :)
Yup a chip breaker would be nice but would ruin the whole point of easy sharpening, unless of course you can come up with a cap style chip breaker. I have to admit an interest in Tangential holders, they are my go-to tool for all materials, except for heavy roughing cuts or where HSS is unsuitable.
hello what brand of grinder is the one your using the one with diamond wheel thanks..
Thats some generic bench grinder with 125mm wheels. I put one of those coarse grit diamond wheels from Kaindl on it and use it outdoors for carbide grinding when I have to remove a lot of material.
thanks gotteswinter for the info. did you add on the set-up for that grinder i need something like it but cant find one
At 10min 50sec into your video you show the grinding of your carbide/mild steel side face using a diamond cup grinding wheel. I have tried to grind steel (HSS drill) with such a (chinese) wheel but it gummed up quickly. According to general theory you should not use diamond on steel because diamond is pure carbon and the iron and carbon in the steel tends to stick and build up on the diamond surface. Your wheel does not seem gummed up. Is maybe the lower carbon content of cold rolled mild steel better suitable? Did you have any problems with that or have you made observations in this direction?
rol eic
Maybe the carbide scraped the surface enough to keep it cutting ?
I think the movement of material is actually the other way round: the carbon of the diamond dissolves in the steel at high temperatures, causing the diamond to break down.
Hi Stefan. Frage was ist das für eine Diamantschleifscheibe und wo bekommt man die? Grüsse Danke
Das war eine Kaindl Sichtschleifscheibe, ich glaub die findet man auf Amazon, ich hab die mal auf einer Messe mitgenommen.
Würde ich nicht mehr kaufen, ist viel zu grob und verschleißt sehr schnell.
@@StefanGotteswinter ok.
Joar hasr Du eine Empfehlungen?
Hi this small yellow tank is MAP gas?
+SIMI.KING MOTO No, thats just a propane/butane mix, but I could also use MAPP gas.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Hello Stefan ,very nice job and explaining .
Can you tell me the brand of your diamond stone and grinder ?
Thank you !
Thank you! :)