I recently purchased raw materials to help me recognise notes in perfumes. It's a fascinating subject and I very much appreciated your take on the ones you have.
I love that you are exploring raw materials! ❤️ In regard to coumarin vs Tonka Bean absolute...coumarin is the main aroma molecule in Tonka Beans, but Tonka Bean absolute is much more complex & elegant. It has other balsamic, tobacco, hay-like & caramelic nuances that coumarin alone does not have.
Yeah, I mean we can still make out the difference between a synthetic ingredient/perfume and the essential oil/absolute. Even tho we know all the aroma molecules present in a plant material, I don't think if we reconstituted it with all those aroma molecules, it will have the similar depth, richness and complexity. For example, here in India, we will have thousands of years old process of hydro distillation which produces high quality essential oils costing $10-$500 for 10 grams. Ruh Khus or essence of vetiver is a complete perfume in itself; earthy, green, hay like, smoky incense-y, inky and many more nuances.
Thank you 🙏 When people say they hate ambrox, they have never tried it in my experience. With all perfume materials, it's how you used them. Often we don't like a style or blend, not a particular material. There's a way to balance everything. Very interesting. C12 MNA smells like coriander to me, very soapy. Aldehydes are interesting, where the more you dilute them the more different they can smell. Interesting you mention rhubarb with styrallyl acetate, because it's the major component of perfumes like Malle's synthetic jungle, and to me it smells like rhubarb. It's due to this material. Tonka bean is beautiful, definitely more nuanced, it's made up of around 47% coumarin. Tonka is usually detected if the coumarin has a more "cakey" feel. Cashmeran is wet stone for me. It's used in a lot of oudh accords yes, and gives the damp quality. It's also ubiquitous in many florals, Mugler's Alien is an overdose of cashmeran. Norlimbanol is overdosed in Interlude man by Amouage.
I had once used this deo that was oceanic. Not watery wet rainy sort of aquatic but salty, buttery, musky sort of oceanic. And it said ambergris was the prominent note. And since then, I've always thought ambergris smelled like the ocean encapsulated; salty buttery smooth and musky yet somehow fresh. And they say ambroxan is supposed to be the synthetic version of ambergris. But in perfumes with ambroxan, I get none of that oceanic feel. Rather it's like a synthetic chemical mess like in Dior Sauvage.
This was super interesting. I have been able to recognize some notes and raw materials from perfumes. However it would be so interesting to sample just the materials to be able to recognize notes even better without reading note list. Great work and great video guys, great information!
You mentioned Eau Sauvage. I'd suggest this caveat: in Eau Sauvage EDT I, at least, get absolutely nothing but Lemon Drops, 100% linear all day long. Nothing but lemon candy. However, in the Parfum version...well, wow. Night and day. The parfum is loaded with depth and levels and a developing experience throughout the day. i
Thanks for saying this. After years of hearing good things about Eau Sauvage, I finally tried it last week. Imagine my disappointment when it smelled like some washroom cleaner/room freshener. I'll give the Parfum version a try.
Would be interested to try styrallyl acetate! That rhubarb feature sounds intriguing. Nailed the scent of some of those woody ambers tho. Like the screeeeeeching burnout of car tires made into a scent. Difficult to distinguish from isopropanol some of them. And like the radiation from a nuclear blast, they just keep on giving for the entire life of the scent. Can't stand 'em.
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I recently purchased raw materials to help me recognise notes in perfumes. It's a fascinating subject and I very much appreciated your take on the ones you have.
Enjoy exploring them!
Any experience of suppliers or a pack that would make it relatively easy?
@JoM68 where? how? 😁
@@tonyjo9740 yes i would also like a sample pack
@@tonyjo9740 if you're in the UK, I'd recommend either 4160 Tuesdays or the Experimental Perfume Club - they sell materials, as well as fragrances.
Excellent, so nice to have this presented in an unpretentious manner. The way you two bounce off each other adds more effect and is engaging.
Thanks!
Great video idea! Loved this episode 🤌🤌🤌
Thanks for stopping by!
Happy New Year Jo and Dan! We've missed your content over Christmas 🎄 and wishing you both and families all the best for 2023! Happy smelling! 😊
I appreciated this video a lot!!! Thank you so much. Happy to find out I am not the only one to be so fascinated also by raw materials.
You made me happy today, more of this!
We are certainly thinking of more along these lines
I love that you are exploring raw materials! ❤️ In regard to coumarin vs Tonka Bean absolute...coumarin is the main aroma molecule in Tonka Beans, but Tonka Bean absolute is much more complex & elegant. It has other balsamic, tobacco, hay-like & caramelic nuances that coumarin alone does not have.
Yeah, I mean we can still make out the difference between a synthetic ingredient/perfume and the essential oil/absolute.
Even tho we know all the aroma molecules present in a plant material, I don't think if we reconstituted it with all those aroma molecules, it will have the similar depth, richness and complexity.
For example, here in India, we will have thousands of years old process of hydro distillation which produces high quality essential oils costing $10-$500 for 10 grams. Ruh Khus or essence of vetiver is a complete perfume in itself; earthy, green, hay like, smoky incense-y, inky and many more nuances.
Thank you 🙏 When people say they hate ambrox, they have never tried it in my experience. With all perfume materials, it's how you used them. Often we don't like a style or blend, not a particular material. There's a way to balance everything.
Very interesting. C12 MNA smells like coriander to me, very soapy. Aldehydes are interesting, where the more you dilute them the more different they can smell.
Interesting you mention rhubarb with styrallyl acetate, because it's the major component of perfumes like Malle's synthetic jungle, and to me it smells like rhubarb. It's due to this material.
Tonka bean is beautiful, definitely more nuanced, it's made up of around 47% coumarin. Tonka is usually detected if the coumarin has a more "cakey" feel.
Cashmeran is wet stone for me. It's used in a lot of oudh accords yes, and gives the damp quality. It's also ubiquitous in many florals, Mugler's Alien is an overdose of cashmeran.
Norlimbanol is overdosed in Interlude man by Amouage.
I had once used this deo that was oceanic. Not watery wet rainy sort of aquatic but salty, buttery, musky sort of oceanic. And it said ambergris was the prominent note. And since then, I've always thought ambergris smelled like the ocean encapsulated; salty buttery smooth and musky yet somehow fresh.
And they say ambroxan is supposed to be the synthetic version of ambergris. But in perfumes with ambroxan, I get none of that oceanic feel. Rather it's like a synthetic chemical mess like in Dior Sauvage.
Hi jura I really have an adverse reaction to cockatiel from zoologist. I think it’s the rhubarb ? But it’s hard to know ..
the finest gentlemen on youtube
Well, thank you!
I love love saffraleine. It reminds me of the scent of a new furry carpet. I can't stop smelling it, it's so beautiful and warm to me
Please do more of these videos! It's quite interesting to see how other people react to various raw materials.
We may do one focussing more on naturals
@@WaftsfromTheLoft yes please!!!
Great job Gents ... fascinating subject you brought under exploration thanks for the inputs
This was super interesting. I have been able to recognize some notes and raw materials from perfumes. However it would be so interesting to sample just the materials to be able to recognize notes even better without reading note list. Great work and great video guys, great information!
This was great! You should do more videos like this. Thanks guys!
You mentioned Eau Sauvage. I'd suggest this caveat: in Eau Sauvage EDT I, at least, get absolutely nothing but Lemon Drops, 100% linear all day long. Nothing but lemon candy. However, in the Parfum version...well, wow. Night and day. The parfum is loaded with depth and levels and a developing experience throughout the day. i
Thanks for saying this. After years of hearing good things about Eau Sauvage, I finally tried it last week. Imagine my disappointment when it smelled like some washroom cleaner/room freshener. I'll give the Parfum version a try.
love this alternative wafty lofty vid, inspiring me to purchase a few for the fragrance shelves
Kouros relies heavily on the Animalis Base. There is 8% of it in the whole concentrate of the fragrance.
That certainly makes sense!
Is there any place where we can find breakdown of other such perfumes?
Oh yes, this was lovely, please do more, especially with rose
excellent tutorial guys
Glad you liked it!
can you guys review Nasomatto Pardon please?
You forgot the most important ingredient, Jeremy's pirouette.
😅😂😅
@@WaftsfromTheLoft Glad you got a chuckle from this. Love your channel.
Is there an opportunity to create a mixed farming range of fragrances ie silage, hay, fresh milk and of course well rotted dung going onto the fields,
Ha, excellent idea!
Interesting!
So interesting! Where did you buy these raw materials?
Ok found it at 12:53 :)
@@rod.6707 thanks for the highlight! 😊
Good job boys.
Interesting ,.
Would be interested to try styrallyl acetate! That rhubarb feature sounds intriguing. Nailed the scent of some of those woody ambers tho. Like the screeeeeeching burnout of car tires made into a scent. Difficult to distinguish from isopropanol some of them. And like the radiation from a nuclear blast, they just keep on giving for the entire life of the scent. Can't stand 'em.
Nice one boys!
Now I know everything.
That's more than the majority of 'Fragcom'!
🌹
❤️🇵🇸❤️🇩🇿❤️🇪🇭❤️