Thanks ... glad you found the videos helpful, and it isn't "stealing" when the "owner" has invited the "theft" ... whole point of the videos. Have fun with your buildout.
Great series of videos. Just bought this trailer on Memorial Day. Got the trailer for $350. Going to be watching and rewatching this series on how to make the trailer look great ...
Bad ass. Great attention to detail. Just bought mine after searching every harbor freight around a 30m radius. I’m taking your design all the way, not changing a thing. Thanks man
Thanks, and glad you found the videos helpful. I spent a LOT of time and thought on every detail, because I wanted the end result to not only look good, but also be practical and easily adaptable to as many different uses as possible.
You didn't fill in bolt heads like you said in part 3 before painting. I did a 14 trailer and chalked everywhere I cut into the wood to stop water from entering.
Very observant, but I actually I did seal all the bolt holes (including the fence panels) with a standard exterior waterproofing caulk, which I applied liberally, pressed into every bolt hole, and smoothed to surface/flush level using a putty knife. But the caulk material shrank into the recess as it dried/cured, leaving all the caulked bolt holes looking as you see them, and I didn't want to bother going back and caulking them all again before applying my primer and paint. With the combination of normal material shrinkage and absorption of the caulk material into any porous surface it's applied to (e.g., the plywood), along with the primer/paint placed on top of that, I'm satisfied that all the holes are fully waterproofed ... after thousands of road miles (some of that in pretty heavy rain), still no sign of any water intrusion into any of my bolt holes.
Very nicely done . Thinking about getting one. Thanks for the very informative information. Will build it enclosed through for all our camping gear we carry. Build a small trailer but have stuff then room right now . Lol .
Glad you found the videos helpful. I went with the HF super-duty trailer mainly for the folding feature. I wanted to be able to use the trailer in the greatest variety of ways, and still be able to store it in a limited space when not in use (it's neatly tucked away in my garage now). I think you'd be losing the folding feature with an enclosed/covered structure, but I know lots of people use these HF trailers that way, and are very happy with the results.
Glad you're finding the videos helpful ... that's why I did 'em ... to share my experiences/ideas and offer suggestions to people trying these trailers out for the first time. Enjoy ...
I like your idea for the wiring plug on the tongue. I'm putting all my wiring in PEX and fuel line where it has to be flexible. Some of my friends have problems with rodents chewing through the wiring. I'm trying to avoid that.
I put all the wiring inside plastic tubing, and also put breaks at the points where the tongue folds down (detachable marine plugs) so the whole wiring configuration can stay tight to the frame with no sagging/loose sections.
When "subbing out" one of your "fence bracket bolts" you can use a steel pipe nipple and that will give you enough space to run a tie-down hook through it while not compromising the tensile strength of the eyelet. Just a suggestion...
Ended up skipping that add-on ... in the course of using the trailer many times, found that all the tie-points I had worked fine ... didn't need any more.
Here's an update: I've now used this trailer for pretty much everything I originally intended, and it has performed flawlessly throughout. Most recent was not one, but two separate hauling runs of 900+ miles each way, for a total of over 1,800 miles laden (saved the heavier load for the second trip, after first run with a lighter, "test" load), and 1,800 miles unladen, all at normal highway trailering speeds of, e.g., 55-65 mph. Replacement of the factory hub covers with Bearing Buddies and removal/repacking of the bearings in premium, high speed grease is an ESSENTIAL upgrade if you want to use the trailer like this. No regrets at all ... everything's been working great for me!
The diameter of the corner eyebolts was a 3/8" shank, which is a good match for all the pre-drilled holes on the trailer frame, except the little ones used for attaching the front end marker lights, but those smaller bolts are included with the light/electrical kit that comes with the trailer.
This looks amazing. I got one and am putting it together now. With the side fences, will full sheets of plywood still fit? That's the whole reason I got it.
Depends on how you configure the fences, I guess, but not with my configuration, which rests the bottom fence rail on the outer edge of the plywood sheet that makes up the bed, therefore taking the width of the fence board away from all four edges of the 4x8 bed, and making the surface a little too small for a 4x8 sheet of plywood to lay flat on it. I did it that way so the bottom of the fences would rest on the deck, and prevent yard waste/debris from slipping under the fences and onto the road when making trips to the dump, etc.
Thanks ... glad you found the videos helpful. The fence corner brackets are described a lot of different ways by different people/sellers (I think I called them "interlocking corner hasps" ... not a very good/accurate description ... in the last of my series of 4 buildout videos), but the actual parts are the same. Here's a link to the brackets I actually bought/used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LZT9P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You'll probably want to configure them the way shown in the vid, otherwise you have to lift the side fences out first when you're removing them (twice the weight), and then it's a bigger PITA to align/re-connect them when you're putting the fences back on.
Thanks ... found the license plate parts on Amazon ... don't have a specific link, but they aren't hard to find. Just look for a silicone frame/holder and steel bracket.
Glad you found the videos helpful. I might put together a complete "parts list" at some point, but haven't done that at this point. I got all the add-ons mentioned in the videos from common sources, e.g., Harbor Freight, E-bay, Amazon, local hardware store, etc. I'm having yet another add-on custom-made for me by a buddy with a welder: a bolt-on cross brace for the tongue arms. While HF's swing down tongue jack (see my video on that item) generally works OK, because it's mounted on only one of the two tongue arms, and there's also some "slop" in the jack's pivot joint, the whole tongue assembly wants to dip toward the unsupported side, putting twist pressure on the arm the jack's attached to, which gets pretty severe/noticeable when the trailer is loaded with the tongue weight resting on the jack. I'll do a follow-up on that video/comments once the brace is finished/installed.
@@dmrtechnology6033 ok great. Looking forward to it. I just got a fishing kayak so I’m looking for this to be both a utility trailer and kayak hauler. Thanks again!
Not aftermarket ... it's actually "OE" (original equipment) for the 1,720 lb. ("super duty") version of this HF trailer. The lower load model uses a lower load rated tire and 4-lug rim, I think. HF sells the 5-lug rim/tire as a stand-alone item: www.harborfreight.com/530-12in-tire-with-5-lug-rim-load-c-64235.html But when I wanted to get an extra for use as a spare, there were none to be had at any of the HF stores in my area, so I had to find/buy an equivalent from another vendor that met or exceeded all OE specs for this critical part. See, e.g., www.ebay.com/itm/132821029418 I have now put thousands of highway miles on this trailer, laden and unladen, in conditions ranging from 100+ degree heat to sub-freezing/icy/wet conditions at the other extreme, and it has performed like a champ so far. Enjoy!
On the 1,720 lb. capacity model (HF Item No. 62671) there are a total of 26 pre-drilled holes in the framing (13 on each half-sheet) for bolting your plywood deck to the top of the frame. Best fitting SAE bolt for all these holes is 3/8". I used only the pre-drilled holes, because they're enameled the same as the rest of the frame surfaces, and will therefore be more rust-resistant than any new/additional holes drilled through the framing by end-users. So far, after hundreds of miles of travel/use (both loaded and unloaded), I've seen zero evidence of any shifting of the deck on the frame, so the factory bolt holes/locations (combined with good matching of the bolts and plywood holes) can be trusted to hold the deck pieces very securely.
About $200 more or less, including the bearing buddies, not including the lumber for the deck/fences, and I'd do it all again in a heartbeat. The end product was SO worth it ... the trailer has helped me haul dump loads, appliances, and household furnishings all over hell and back ... thousands of road/freeway miles, in all kinds of weather conditions.
Excellent question. Bearing Buddy Model No. 2047 or 2047SS (stainless steel). I'd recommend spending a little more for the stainless steel ones, especially if you're going to be using the trailer in a wet environment. I'd also recommend a complete disassembly, cleaning and repacking of the wheel bearings with new grease when you put the "buddies" on, and replacement of the OEM grease with a quality "high speed" grease, e.g., Valvoline Cerulean. The combination of the buddies and high speed grease will protect the axles/bearings against overheating at normal highway speeds. I've used mine fully loaded at 55-65 mph or more, with ZERO overheating of the hubs.
@@dmrtechnology6033 Good info and thank you! I am planning on replacing the OEM grease with a quality marine grease. Intending to use my new HF trailer as a regular utility trailer and a jon boat trailer.
@@souldude2228 ... I just completed an 1,800 mile round trip with the trailer over the Labor Day weekend (which happened to be among the hottest days of 2020 in the southwestern US) and the bearings/hubs performed flawlessly again ... no overheating, and I was running 6-8 hour stretches in full daylight, at normal highway towing speeds, 55-65 mph ...
@@dmrtechnology6033 Awesome road test to prove that the trailer can definitely run at highway speed! Thanks for sharing, it will give me a peace of mind when I take my trailer out for the first time! It's still in its packaging boxes, haven't had time to put it together yet.
3/4" CDX (the manufacturer recommends 3/4", and I also recommend that near the end of my "1 of 4" video on this buildout), and yes, the hinges are designed to allow complete folding with plywood of this thickness, but clearance is maxed out at 3/4". Mine binds a little at the bottom because I added the recessed cargo anchors, and although they're a recessed design, the plates they're set in still rise about 1/8" above the plywood surface, so if I try to push the top ends completely together when folding, the anchor plate makes an indentation on the opposing side (not a big deal to me), so I just leave a little space between the top ends to minimize this binding, which has no significant effect on my ability to fold, roll or store the trailer.
Assuming your question is about the interlocking brackets for the front fence corners: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LZT9P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have tried to put berry buddies on my trailer and the 1980 doesnt fit..I bought the next size up and that is difficult for me to put on ...they wont snug in..they end up going sideways every time..maybe you could show how you put them on so straight and snug.?
I used Bearing Buddy Model No. 2047 for "super-duty" size HF trailer (5-lug hub). If you're working with a different/smaller HF trailer, not sure of the hub/buddy size. It should be pretty tough to get it into the hub ... that's what keeps it snugly in place. Getting it started is the hardest part ... use a piece of 2x4 scrap to square it up, hold it in position for hammering. Then, while holding it as straight as you can, start hammering ... on the wood, not the rim of the buddy ... move your blows in small circles around the circumference of the buddy, and it will gradually start to seat in the hub opening. Once you've got it seated/straight, just keep doing the same thing, with a bit more force, until the inside edge of the buddy is flush with the hub on all sides. That's about it ...
I probably already posted it "somewhere," but here it is again, just for giggles: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JF165C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They've worked fine for me, thousands of road miles, all weather conditions, laden/unladen, worn to about 50% of original tread, but trailer's now been stored in my garage for quite awhile, not recently used, so I'd have to re-evaluate them before next use. If they're "bombs," I would say the "bombs" are duds, and I wouldn't expect them to explode, unless they're too old/cracked, or habitually underinflated, overinflated, or overloaded ... these are a standard, small five-lug rim/tire combination for this size/weight rating of trailer. Don't need a tractor tire for a trailer that's not supposed to be used to haul more than 1,700 lbs ...
As I state at the end of video 1 of 4, and again in my reply to a previous question: 3/4" CDX; that is the thickness recommended by the manufacturer in their instructions (and which I also recommend for strength/rigidity of the deck); yes, the folding hinges are designed to accept and fold completely with plywood of that thickness (but the spread of the hinges is maxed out), and if, like me, you add any cargo anchors or other hardware to the deck that protrudes above the surface plane of the plywood, it will bind/contact the opposing side when you fold the trailer.
I think I said "interlocking hasp," which wasn't a very accurate description for that part. Interlocking bracket would have been better, but here's your bonus: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LZT9P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@dmrtechnology6033 Are the cargo anchors only attached to the plywood or did you need to reinforce them somehow? I'm wondering if you can use them for a heavy duty load, like an appliance, with ratcheting tie-downs? Beautiful job on the build by the way!
@@justin71069 ... I only attached them to the plywood, but I reinforced the bottom (nut) sides by using a combination of a fender washer against the wood, topped with a normal washer/nut. That, combined with the proximity of the anchors to the trailer frame makes them pretty much bombproof ... sure, they'll easily secure a heavy appliance that's properly tied down. Check out my video on use of the HF folding ramp for loading/unloading ... that's been a life (and back) saver for me getting heavy stuff up into, and down/out of the trailer bed.
Standard exterior latex for fences; a standard exterior latex "deck paint" for the deck. I also put a coat of KILZ primer on everything before applying the paint. The latex rated for use on floors/decks usually dries to a tougher, thicker finish, to help it hold up better under foot traffic. The finishes will get beat up if you're using the trailer a lot, but I like that "broken in" look; both paints have held up great so far overall, and my local hardware store has the formula for both in their paint dept. computer now, so it'll be easy to get more/do touch-ups as/when needed.
No ... HF sells two different 4x8 trailers. The "super duty" version (up to 1,720 lbs. capacity, HF Nos. 62647, 62671) comes with a 5-lug hub/rim. The "heavy duty" version (up to 1,195 lbs. capacity, HF Nos. 62648, 62666) comes with a 4-lug hub/rim. The lighter duty model also comes with flimsier tongue arms that require addition of a cross brace to the tongue arm assembly (included with the OE). I personally think a cross-brace in this location should be supplied with BOTH models ... in fact, I ended up designing/fabricating my own to strengthen/reinforce the tongue assembly on the "super duty" version shown in this video. See my subsequent video on the cross-brace project if you're interested in that ...
The coupler pins I found/chose to secure the rails weren't in place/installed when I shot this video. See my build video 2 of 4 at 3:30 to 5:00 for detail on the pins. They work great.
Now you need to get an empty weight of your trail to be able to see what you can haul take your empty weight subtract it from your gross weight that will tell you how much weight you can put on your trailer.
The HF "super-duty" trailer (5-lug rim) is rated for 1,720 lbs., which assumes addition of fences and 3/4-inch ply deck. The other add-ons of any meaningful weight, i.e., spare tire/compartment, tongue box and tongue reinforcement bar, don't add more than a hundred lbs. or so, so safe "working load rating" with this package of add-ons is at least 1,600 lbs. Pretty hard to put 1,600 lbs. of ANY typical load into a 4x8 deck, so unless you're hauling something really dense/heavy, like bags of concrete, sod, or solid waste of some kind, most people will have no trouble with overload of this trailer in most typical uses. Always check leaf springs, wheel hubs and tire condition/pressure before hauling, and you're typically "good to go."
@@dmrtechnology6033 that works people here in my state of Kentucky D.O.T is stopping these trails to check if thy are over loaded some are and some not big fine if thy are.
@@billypirtle1443 ... well, can't blame the cops for doing their job, and people who don't want to be bothered with figuring out load capacities/weights probably shouldn't be hauling stuff at all, and/or deserve to get fined. Screw this stuff up, and you can end up getting someone seriously injured or killed ...
Absolutely knocked it out of the park. Very very nice build. I’m gonna steal a few ideas here for my trailer. Thanks again again.
Thanks ... glad you found the videos helpful, and it isn't "stealing" when the "owner" has invited the "theft" ... whole point of the videos. Have fun with your buildout.
Great series of videos.
Just bought this trailer on Memorial Day. Got the trailer for $350. Going to be watching and rewatching this series on how to make the trailer look great ...
Thanks ... glad you found the videos useful/helpful ... have fun on your build!
Bad ass. Great attention to detail. Just bought mine after searching every harbor freight around a 30m radius. I’m taking your design all the way, not changing a thing. Thanks man
Thanks, and glad you found the videos helpful. I spent a LOT of time and thought on every detail, because I wanted the end result to not only look good, but also be practical and easily adaptable to as many different uses as possible.
Wonderful series, thank you.
Glad you found the videos helpful. I had fun doing the build and videos, but I was pretty "done" by the end. The final product was worth the effort.
You didn't fill in bolt heads like you said in part 3 before painting. I did a 14 trailer and chalked everywhere I cut into the wood to stop water from entering.
Very observant, but I actually I did seal all the bolt holes (including the fence panels) with a standard exterior waterproofing caulk, which I applied liberally, pressed into every bolt hole, and smoothed to surface/flush level using a putty knife. But the caulk material shrank into the recess as it dried/cured, leaving all the caulked bolt holes looking as you see them, and I didn't want to bother going back and caulking them all again before applying my primer and paint. With the combination of normal material shrinkage and absorption of the caulk material into any porous surface it's applied to (e.g., the plywood), along with the primer/paint placed on top of that, I'm satisfied that all the holes are fully waterproofed ... after thousands of road miles (some of that in pretty heavy rain), still no sign of any water intrusion into any of my bolt holes.
Very nicely done . Thinking about getting one. Thanks for the very informative information. Will build it enclosed through for all our camping gear we carry. Build a small trailer but have stuff then room right now . Lol .
Glad you found the videos helpful. I went with the HF super-duty trailer mainly for the folding feature. I wanted to be able to use the trailer in the greatest variety of ways, and still be able to store it in a limited space when not in use (it's neatly tucked away in my garage now). I think you'd be losing the folding feature with an enclosed/covered structure, but I know lots of people use these HF trailers that way, and are very happy with the results.
Wow your videos are sooooo awesome !!!!! I just bought the same trailer and I'm going to follow exactly what you did ...Keep up the great work.
Glad you're finding the videos helpful ... that's why I did 'em ... to share my experiences/ideas and offer suggestions to people trying these trailers out for the first time. Enjoy ...
Love your build! I'll be buying my HF trailer this weekend.
Glad you found the videos helpful ... enjoy your buildout.
I like your idea for the wiring plug on the tongue. I'm putting all my wiring in PEX and fuel line where it has to be flexible. Some of my friends have problems with rodents chewing through the wiring. I'm trying to avoid that.
I put all the wiring inside plastic tubing, and also put breaks at the points where the tongue folds down (detachable marine plugs) so the whole wiring configuration can stay tight to the frame with no sagging/loose sections.
Love your ideas! Thanks working on mine
Glad you're finding the videos helpful ...
When "subbing out" one of your "fence bracket bolts" you can use a steel pipe nipple and that will give you enough space to run a tie-down hook through it while not compromising the tensile strength of the eyelet. Just a suggestion...
Ended up skipping that add-on ... in the course of using the trailer many times, found that all the tie-points I had worked fine ... didn't need any more.
Here's an update: I've now used this trailer for pretty much everything I originally intended, and it has performed flawlessly throughout. Most recent was not one, but two separate hauling runs of 900+ miles each way, for a total of over 1,800 miles laden (saved the heavier load for the second trip, after first run with a lighter, "test" load), and 1,800 miles unladen, all at normal highway trailering speeds of, e.g., 55-65 mph. Replacement of the factory hub covers with Bearing Buddies and removal/repacking of the bearings in premium, high speed grease is an ESSENTIAL upgrade if you want to use the trailer like this. No regrets at all ... everything's been working great for me!
It really looks Professional
Good looking trailer.
Thanks ... it's a bit more "broken in" now, but holding up well.
The diameter of the corner eyebolts was a 3/8" shank, which is a good match for all the pre-drilled holes on the trailer frame, except the little ones used for attaching the front end marker lights, but those smaller bolts are included with the light/electrical kit that comes with the trailer.
This looks amazing. I got one and am putting it together now. With the side fences, will full sheets of plywood still fit? That's the whole reason I got it.
Depends on how you configure the fences, I guess, but not with my configuration, which rests the bottom fence rail on the outer edge of the plywood sheet that makes up the bed, therefore taking the width of the fence board away from all four edges of the 4x8 bed, and making the surface a little too small for a 4x8 sheet of plywood to lay flat on it. I did it that way so the bottom of the fences would rest on the deck, and prevent yard waste/debris from slipping under the fences and onto the road when making trips to the dump, etc.
What kind of locking latch did you us for the front of the rail? What does it called? Great job with the trailer Sir.
Thanks ... glad you found the videos helpful. The fence corner brackets are described a lot of different ways by different people/sellers (I think I called them "interlocking corner hasps" ... not a very good/accurate description ... in the last of my series of 4 buildout videos), but the actual parts are the same. Here's a link to the brackets I actually bought/used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LZT9P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll probably want to configure them the way shown in the vid, otherwise you have to lift the side fences out first when you're removing them (twice the weight), and then it's a bigger PITA to align/re-connect them when you're putting the fences back on.
Love how you done the trailer...
Where did you get the license plate stuff from?
Thanks ... found the license plate parts on Amazon ... don't have a specific link, but they aren't hard to find. Just look for a silicone frame/holder and steel bracket.
Well done! Thanks for the videos. You gave me peace of mind regarding highway travel.
Is there any chance that you have a parts list of your add-ons?
Glad you found the videos helpful. I might put together a complete "parts list" at some point, but haven't done that at this point. I got all the add-ons mentioned in the videos from common sources, e.g., Harbor Freight, E-bay, Amazon, local hardware store, etc.
I'm having yet another add-on custom-made for me by a buddy with a welder: a bolt-on cross brace for the tongue arms. While HF's swing down tongue jack (see my video on that item) generally works OK, because it's mounted on only one of the two tongue arms, and there's also some "slop" in the jack's pivot joint, the whole tongue assembly wants to dip toward the unsupported side, putting twist pressure on the arm the jack's attached to, which gets pretty severe/noticeable when the trailer is loaded with the tongue weight resting on the jack. I'll do a follow-up on that video/comments once the brace is finished/installed.
@@dmrtechnology6033 ok great. Looking forward to it.
I just got a fishing kayak so I’m looking for this to be both a utility trailer and kayak hauler. Thanks again!
Noticed the 5 bolt hubs. Is that aftermarket? If so can you share the link?
Not aftermarket ... it's actually "OE" (original equipment) for the 1,720 lb. ("super duty") version of this HF trailer. The lower load model uses a lower load rated tire and 4-lug rim, I think. HF sells the 5-lug rim/tire as a stand-alone item:
www.harborfreight.com/530-12in-tire-with-5-lug-rim-load-c-64235.html
But when I wanted to get an extra for use as a spare, there were none to be had at any of the HF stores in my area, so I had to find/buy an equivalent from another vendor that met or exceeded all OE specs for this critical part. See, e.g.,
www.ebay.com/itm/132821029418
I have now put thousands of highway miles on this trailer, laden and unladen, in conditions ranging from 100+ degree heat to sub-freezing/icy/wet conditions at the other extreme, and it has performed like a champ so far.
Enjoy!
hi. Awesome looking Project. Question. How many bolts to secure the bed cover in place?
On the 1,720 lb. capacity model (HF Item No. 62671) there are a total of 26 pre-drilled holes in the framing (13 on each half-sheet) for bolting your plywood deck to the top of the frame. Best fitting SAE bolt for all these holes is 3/8". I used only the pre-drilled holes, because they're enameled the same as the rest of the frame surfaces, and will therefore be more rust-resistant than any new/additional holes drilled through the framing by end-users. So far, after hundreds of miles of travel/use (both loaded and unloaded), I've seen zero evidence of any shifting of the deck on the frame, so the factory bolt holes/locations (combined with good matching of the bolts and plywood holes) can be trusted to hold the deck pieces very securely.
Great Job! Can I ask How much money you have in the Hardware? Ball Park.
About $200 more or less, including the bearing buddies, not including the lumber for the deck/fences, and I'd do it all again in a heartbeat. The end product was SO worth it ... the trailer has helped me haul dump loads, appliances, and household furnishings all over hell and back ... thousands of road/freeway miles, in all kinds of weather conditions.
The Bearing Buddy replacement sounds like a good idea! Which model or size/specs did you buy to replace the original HF dust cap?
Excellent question. Bearing Buddy Model No. 2047 or 2047SS (stainless steel). I'd recommend spending a little more for the stainless steel ones, especially if you're going to be using the trailer in a wet environment. I'd also recommend a complete disassembly, cleaning and repacking of the wheel bearings with new grease when you put the "buddies" on, and replacement of the OEM grease with a quality "high speed" grease, e.g., Valvoline Cerulean. The combination of the buddies and high speed grease will protect the axles/bearings against overheating at normal highway speeds. I've used mine fully loaded at 55-65 mph or more, with ZERO overheating of the hubs.
@@dmrtechnology6033 Good info and thank you! I am planning on replacing the OEM grease with a quality marine grease. Intending to use my new HF trailer as a regular utility trailer and a jon boat trailer.
@@souldude2228 ... I just completed an 1,800 mile round trip with the trailer over the Labor Day weekend (which happened to be among the hottest days of 2020 in the southwestern US) and the bearings/hubs performed flawlessly again ... no overheating, and I was running 6-8 hour stretches in full daylight, at normal highway towing speeds, 55-65 mph ...
@@dmrtechnology6033 Awesome road test to prove that the trailer can definitely run at highway speed! Thanks for sharing, it will give me a peace of mind when I take my trailer out for the first time! It's still in its packaging boxes, haven't had time to put it together yet.
What size plywood did you go with? Does the trailer still fold?
3/4" CDX (the manufacturer recommends 3/4", and I also recommend that near the end of my "1 of 4" video on this buildout), and yes, the hinges are designed to allow complete folding with plywood of this thickness, but clearance is maxed out at 3/4". Mine binds a little at the bottom because I added the recessed cargo anchors, and although they're a recessed design, the plates they're set in still rise about 1/8" above the plywood surface, so if I try to push the top ends completely together when folding, the anchor plate makes an indentation on the opposing side (not a big deal to me), so I just leave a little space between the top ends to minimize this binding, which has no significant effect on my ability to fold, roll or store the trailer.
Where did you get the corner clamps
Assuming your question is about the interlocking brackets for the front fence corners:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LZT9P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@dmrtechnology6033 thank you. Found them
I have tried to put berry buddies on my trailer and the 1980 doesnt fit..I bought the next size up and that is difficult for me to put on ...they wont snug in..they end up going sideways every time..maybe you could show how you put them on so straight and snug.?
I used Bearing Buddy Model No. 2047 for "super-duty" size HF trailer (5-lug hub). If you're working with a different/smaller HF trailer, not sure of the hub/buddy size. It should be pretty tough to get it into the hub ... that's what keeps it snugly in place. Getting it started is the hardest part ... use a piece of 2x4 scrap to square it up, hold it in position for hammering. Then, while holding it as straight as you can, start hammering ... on the wood, not the rim of the buddy ... move your blows in small circles around the circumference of the buddy, and it will gradually start to seat in the hub opening. Once you've got it seated/straight, just keep doing the same thing, with a bit more force, until the inside edge of the buddy is flush with the hub on all sides. That's about it ...
Can you post the link for the rear latches?
I probably already posted it "somewhere," but here it is again, just for giggles:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JF165C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@dmrtechnology6033 thanks!
Take my word for it. Replace those china bomb tires.
They've worked fine for me, thousands of road miles, all weather conditions, laden/unladen, worn to about 50% of original tread, but trailer's now been stored in my garage for quite awhile, not recently used, so I'd have to re-evaluate them before next use. If they're "bombs," I would say the "bombs" are duds, and I wouldn't expect them to explode, unless they're too old/cracked, or habitually underinflated, overinflated, or overloaded ... these are a standard, small five-lug rim/tire combination for this size/weight rating of trailer. Don't need a tractor tire for a trailer that's not supposed to be used to haul more than 1,700 lbs ...
what size plywood did you use and will the trailer fully fold with 3/4" plywood
As I state at the end of video 1 of 4, and again in my reply to a previous question: 3/4" CDX; that is the thickness recommended by the manufacturer in their instructions (and which I also recommend for strength/rigidity of the deck); yes, the folding hinges are designed to accept and fold completely with plywood of that thickness (but the spread of the hinges is maxed out), and if, like me, you add any cargo anchors or other hardware to the deck that protrudes above the surface plane of the plywood, it will bind/contact the opposing side when you fold the trailer.
Did you call the hinge a locking half hasp? If so where can I get this?
I think I said "interlocking hasp," which wasn't a very accurate description for that part. Interlocking bracket would have been better, but here's your bonus:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LZT9P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where did you buy the inked recessed cargo anchors?
I got mine from Amazon. Here's the link:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006TGZE32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
@@dmrtechnology6033 Are the cargo anchors only attached to the plywood or did you need to reinforce them somehow? I'm wondering if you can use them for a heavy duty load, like an appliance, with ratcheting tie-downs? Beautiful job on the build by the way!
@@justin71069 ... I only attached them to the plywood, but I reinforced the bottom (nut) sides by using a combination of a fender washer against the wood, topped with a normal washer/nut. That, combined with the proximity of the anchors to the trailer frame makes them pretty much bombproof ... sure, they'll easily secure a heavy appliance that's properly tied down. Check out my video on use of the HF folding ramp for loading/unloading ... that's been a life (and back) saver for me getting heavy stuff up into, and down/out of the trailer bed.
What type of paint did you use for the rails and the floor?
Standard exterior latex for fences; a standard exterior latex "deck paint" for the deck. I also put a coat of KILZ primer on everything before applying the paint. The latex rated for use on floors/decks usually dries to a tougher, thicker finish, to help it hold up better under foot traffic. The finishes will get beat up if you're using the trailer a lot, but I like that "broken in" look; both paints have held up great so far overall, and my local hardware store has the formula for both in their paint dept. computer now, so it'll be easy to get more/do touch-ups as/when needed.
@@dmrtechnology6033 ok thanks
Did you change the hub to a five lug. HB is a four lug.
No ... HF sells two different 4x8 trailers. The "super duty" version (up to 1,720 lbs. capacity, HF Nos. 62647, 62671) comes with a 5-lug hub/rim. The "heavy duty" version (up to 1,195 lbs. capacity, HF Nos. 62648, 62666) comes with a 4-lug hub/rim. The lighter duty model also comes with flimsier tongue arms that require addition of a cross brace to the tongue arm assembly (included with the OE). I personally think a cross-brace in this location should be supplied with BOTH models ... in fact, I ended up designing/fabricating my own to strengthen/reinforce the tongue assembly on the "super duty" version shown in this video. See my subsequent video on the cross-brace project if you're interested in that ...
those rails are not secure?????
The coupler pins I found/chose to secure the rails weren't in place/installed when I shot this video. See my build video 2 of 4 at 3:30 to 5:00 for detail on the pins. They work great.
very cool build i am fowling your design
Now you need to get an empty weight of your trail to be able to see what you can haul take your empty weight subtract it from your gross weight that will tell you how much weight you can put on your trailer.
The HF "super-duty" trailer (5-lug rim) is rated for 1,720 lbs., which assumes addition of fences and 3/4-inch ply deck. The other add-ons of any meaningful weight, i.e., spare tire/compartment, tongue box and tongue reinforcement bar, don't add more than a hundred lbs. or so, so safe "working load rating" with this package of add-ons is at least 1,600 lbs. Pretty hard to put 1,600 lbs. of ANY typical load into a 4x8 deck, so unless you're hauling something really dense/heavy, like bags of concrete, sod, or solid waste of some kind, most people will have no trouble with overload of this trailer in most typical uses. Always check leaf springs, wheel hubs and tire condition/pressure before hauling, and you're typically "good to go."
@@dmrtechnology6033 that works people here in my state of Kentucky D.O.T is stopping these trails to check if thy are over loaded some are and some not big fine if thy are.
@@billypirtle1443 ... well, can't blame the cops for doing their job, and people who don't want to be bothered with figuring out load capacities/weights probably shouldn't be hauling stuff at all, and/or deserve to get fined. Screw this stuff up, and you can end up getting someone seriously injured or killed ...
@@dmrtechnology6033 You right on this.
we’re did you get those hasp?
Scroll through the comments ... same question, and posted link 2 or 3 times ...