@@marcelrodriguez2067 This is late but I think they just put them in an invert only tank for the lifecycle of any possible parasite to die out and starve and then adding them to their display
Hey Jake, I just wanted to take the time to say thank you. I am barely going into my one year mark on saltwater aquariums and I have not been finding success with any other videos out there. Your channel has really given me the tools & ambition to have high quality tanks! Thanks!
Couldn't agree more. People overlook this aspect of saltwater aquariums. Quarantine everything. I think that unless you medicate them, you're just rolling the dice. Ick isn't something you can always see. There's fish that carry them but are hardy enough to not become plagued by them. When you put them into your main display, they're going to colonize the aquarium or add to the pre-existing colony.
@@ReefBuildersVideo A variety of frozen food such as reef frenzy, calanus, brine(soaked in supplements) and PE mysis. Dry food consist of crushed PE mysis flake food.
My Full time 9-5 day job is as a quarantine aquarist at a large public aquarium. We absolutely do not use bio bricks in our qt tanks because they can harbor all sorts of pathogens even after months of treatment. We use plastic macaroni style bio beads in a media bed. No stone or ceramic. 30-90 days minimum depending on species and symptoms ( or lack of). We start with formalin 14 days and then run copper 30 days for saltwater fish. Various Different antibiotics are used for bacterial infections, and other medications are used if there are different ectoparasites such as flukes or parasitic copepods. There is TONS of intricacy to this subject and you can never really know everything about quarantining fish. It’s an evolving field of research. For the home warm saltwater aquarist a preventative 10 days of formalin and then 10-30 days of copper is more than adequate if there are no symptoms of illness. Better yet , pay someone who knows what they’re doing to quarantine your new fish.
A 76 day fallow for frags/inverts is daunting me right now but I'm hoping to try it with my first inverts in the next few months! The work that goes into QT makes me understand why so many people just dump fish/corals in 😂
My method is tank transfer method for 12 days (4 transfers). This is how I do it: 1. Prepare quarantine tank (can even be a bucket of appropriate size) with saltwater and airstone & airline tube with pump a day or two before. Use PVC for hiding spots. 2. Acquire specimen and acclimate to QT water. Do a 5-minute freshwater dip (some fishes may react drastically, don't worry, only fish that start slowing their breathing are typically in danger thus put into QT immediately). 3. Note the time the fish goes into the QT (e.g. 11pm) 4. Just before 72 hours on day 3 (e.g. 10.45pm day 3) move fish to a similar sized clean QT size with clean PVC and new airstone and airline tube. You can net it or use hand or use a collander. 5. Repeat every 3 days just before 72 hours (e.g. 10.30pm day 6, 10.15pm day 9 and 10.00pm day 12). Be sure to clean QT and PVC used with vinegar and dry until needed 3 days later. 6. Extra: On tail end of transfer 2 and 4 (day 5 and day 11) I use Prazipro for flukes/deworming. It's safe when dosed correctly even for sensitive wrasses. Aeration is mighty important during Prazi treatment. Use two airstones if needed. 7. Extra: Water changes not required since fish move to a new QT every 3 days but I have a large enough container that holds enough saltwater for 12 days, everyday I change 50% water. I feed daily though not required. You can feed at the tail end of each transfer day. Be sure to clean any water changing apparatus between uses thoroughly or use two of each and dry between uses. 7. Fourth transfer on day 12; in the display tank they go if all is well (no ich, eating well, breathing normal). I know 12 days seems "too quick" but it has worked for me. You can observe the fish for two weeks after the fourth transfer to a QT but I don't do that. The plus side to this method is minimal chemical use. The downside is that you need a fair amount of salt and it's more "laborous" since you're moving the fish every 3 days and also cleaning/drying the equipment. Also, this only works for ich. I choose to do it at night since it fits my daily work schedule. If you get a new fish be sure to move to the QT at a time you are comfortable with. For coral/invert quarantine, I have a cycled QT that I leave them in for 6 weeks since the last added specimen. Just a simple cycled QT with basic lights will do. I do a 50% water change after 3 weeks. I feed weekly. Reason for 6 weeks is to experiment with different foods, flow and feeding behaviour. Also, to check for the dreaded Aiptasia. Most importantly any ich that cysts on coral/rocks (though unlikely) will die off after 6 weeks. It's not 100% guaranteed ich free but it's as good as it can get.
Great advice as always Jake. I dont think I heard you mention the tank transfer method??? I use it religiously, along with a double Prazipro dose (1 before TTM and 1 after) with any new addition and am yet to lose a fish to it or indeed have a fish show any sign of infection, including some delicate fish ie multiple fairy wrasses. I qt for a minimum 6 weeks inc cuc, corals and well, anything wet. 😂👍👌🙏🏴❤💚🐠
Currently going through tank transfer with my first yellow tang, he's due to go into a QT for 2 week observation before acclimating to the DT. Great vid thanks Jake!
humblefish has shown reports on coral sand is fine to use. really good read it shows how to QT wrasse and how he has sand in all of his tanks that he QT.
The last part is what I was expecting. You said that QT fish tank need not that much of light, but what about the anemones, do the QT tank of anemone needs the complete blue spectrum as present in display?
has chloroquine phosphate gone out of favor in the hobby? At one point there was the hype of that being a "miracle drug" because it dealt with ich, velvet, brook, etc. and there was no apparent negative effects to it if you just treat a QT in general.
Mike B doubt its gone out of favour it’s just hard to test for correct levels and there isn’t a hobby grade test. Here in the uk it’s the go to option.
Awesome video QT all day. The only thing you did not mention was internal parasites. How would you go about Treating internally . Hypo Salinity is my go to i have a Convict tang, queen angel and naso tang in hypo now. I lost one too many expensive fish to not QT great video.
Medicated food should help, but I really consider that an ‘advanced’ form of treatment. Internal parasites are pretty uncommon in typical aquarium fish
Another great video. I really respect your advice. I wasn't quite clear in the video, do you automatically treat your fish, or do you just put them in the Qt tank to observe and only treat if you see something? As far as Ick will having them in the tank for 21 days mean that any potential ick parasite will die off? Thanks again.
Using the Marine Pure is inspired, as it should not remove copper or anything else but do much better biofiltration then a small piece of live rock, which will have to be thrown out anyway.
I’m new to the hobby but am about to pull the trigger with fish only setup. I have a few questions..... -I realize you’re using a smaller tank for the quarantine. Any rule on the number of fish you can put in at once? For example, how many could you quarantine in a 10 gallon tank at once that would ultimately go in a 55 gallon?
What a coincidence! Today I just put 4 carpenter wrasses in QT! And as it is with so many things in this hobby, it seems like there's a hundred different opinions on best practices. I was planning to dose copper as a prophylactic measure but now I'm having second thoughts. I don't want to unnecessarily stress the fish but I also I don't want to put the fish at risk by waiting until obvious signs of disease appear before medicating (I'm not confident that I would recognize symptoms early enough before it's too late). I really respect the opinion of veteran reef keepers like Jake (and even more so when they admit to the limits of their experience/knowledge) but does anyone with wrasse QT experience have a recommendation?
im a little confused, do you treat the fish anyway or only if u see some sort of problem. also how do you quarantine corals and inverts? also does dipping corals work instead of qt?
I know chloroquine phosphate will be absorbed by rocks and sponge type media meaning the therapeutic level could be compromised and as it’s not currently testable currently at hobby level I guess it’s important. As for copper, is it similar that the media will deteriorate? Luckily copper is testable using hobby grade test kits :)
After quarantining new fish for 4 weeks... they go into the main tank... then what is needed for the second round of fish? Say I'm planning to stock a reef tank that will be stocked in 3 or 4 steps... clownfish pair, then royal gramma, then possibly another fish, last a coral beauty angelfish... what is needed to do to the QT tank between fish? If doing this, and ok with discarding the sand and/or rock.... can you have a small bit of sand or rock in the QT for biological filtration...? I know parasites can live in the sand, or their eggs can... will the medication kill those , or do you absolutely need bare bottom for QT? I will also be setting up a fishless frag QT tank... as we are going to be stocking 2 or 3 new tanks in the next year....2 small, 1 medium sized tank... Lots to learn to do things closer to right this time around... thanks for the video...
Does water in quarantine tank need to be completely cycled with microorganisms or bacteria? If so, how long to treat tank or introduce bacteria before introducing fish?
Can i put my QT on the floor? I dont have a stand, im already having a hard time convincing my parents to put another small tank apart from the Display. And the laundry room is the only place that it will be possible to put is that ok?
@@UBISOFT-DINOHUB1 yeah. And now with the price up in yellow tangs I decided to stop going for them and bought a fox face about 2 months ago. Great fish
Great video Jake I'm always learning something new.I see the part about keeping the SG low @ 1.016-18 to start and understand you on that. And most fish coming from our LFS or online have a reduced SG around 1.020 so they will transition with less stress. At what point do you start acclimating them to a SG of 1.026 or what ever your main reef that they are going in?
FF is rich, expensive, it leads many people to having obese fish and the worst part is that it puts such a tax on the biological filter of any aquarium, and adds so much phosphate. It's nothing inherently wrong with FF, except that people just feed it way WAY too much.
When using hyposalinity, should we be monitoring ph and/or alk? Do we need to increase it if it dips? I've heard that since there is less buffering capacity in the low salinity water, ph can start to fall since the water is pretty diluted.
Yes you are right about the connection with hypo, alk and pH but fish don't really care. The remaining buffering capacity is more than sufficient to keep pH 'hihg enough'
I'm new to the hobby. What about quarantining live rock? Is it necessary? I wouldn't think since it's part of the cycling process but I am still learning. Thanks in advance.
nice video about quarantining fish, How do you sterilise the equipment and bio media for a QT after your finished and don't have the space to have a QT system running the whole year around?
well, don't use the ceramic bio blocks as they can bind medication. concerning wrasses that like to burrow in sand, just put a pyrex bowl filled with silica sand as that sand does not bind meds.
Frozen food is really expensive, very rich, and many people have obese fish with exopthalmia from constantly toy feeding it - not to mention all the phosphates it adds to your water. Like anything else use it in moderation but reefers feed it every day, instead of like twice a week
Hey Jake, great video! I myself am a big proponent of quarantine and prophylactic treatment of all fish with prazy and copper. I understand that a lot of fish can carry the disease without any external symptoms so would really like to hear your thoughts on this and why you choose only to treat for visible signs of disease. Thanks!
Would you mind sharing your quarantine protocols ? I’m planning to setup a quarantine tank soon and prophylactic treatment seems to be the best technique for long term success. Thanks
@@neilc1978 sure. It may be a bit intricate and long to explain the rationale behind the protocol. Basically I use prazi for the first two weeks, 90% water change, ramp up Copper power over 4-6 days using a doser to dose 4 tines per day so that it is a really smooth increase, leave the fish 🐠at full therapeutic level for at least 10 days and than transfer to the display. Why 10 days instead of the common 30? Well, the copper will only kill the parasite in their free swimming fase which occurs either when it drops of the fish to encyst onto a hard surface (protomonts) or when the hatch and go look for a new host (Theronts). It takes 3-7 days for the parasites to drop and become protomonts in which case the 10 day full therapeautic dose will kill them before they encyst. On the other hand, any theronts that hatch during this period will also be killed and will not attach to the fish. Ideally you would than transfer to an observation tank but I don’t. Instead I will acclimate to tank water and place in the main tank by taking these precautions: remove water from the main display and add to that the required copper dose to bring it up to therapeautic level (this water may NEVER be returned to the main display !!!!). Drip acclimate using this water. After the acclimation rinse the fish in tank water and finally put it i to the main display. A lot of people make the mistake of leaving copper for 30 days, drip the levels and observe for another 2/4 weeks. Some strains of ich have been known to encyst up to 72 days in a hard surface (hence the 77 days fallow period rule 😉) which means if you leave the fish in QT after treating and lowering the copper level you run the risk of re infection. In fact, that is why a lot of people who quarantine end up having mysterious outbreaks in spite of theoretically doing everything well. So this 10 day protocol is more effective than a traditional 30 + observation (in the same tank) and exposes the fish to copper for a third of the time. Hope this helps 🙂
I know this is an "older" video but using the bio-media brick... cant pests just insert themselves onto the brick? Doesnt the brick suck up medications if you use medications?
Very informative video. Question I have is, what about the parasites you don’t see. For example, ich in the gills that don’t show up in the QT? Now, they’re in the DT and you have to pull them and QT again.
I live in a 1200sqf condo and my dt is 50 gallons. I haven’t ever done a qt or quarantine process as I don’t have any room in my condo for a second setup. Is there any recommendation on how to quarantine with limited space?
I've had ich come in on a batch of inverts. I quarantine everything now.
How do you quarantine inverts? Cant use copper for them.
@@marcelrodriguez2067 This is late but I think they just put them in an invert only tank for the lifecycle of any possible parasite to die out and starve and then adding them to their display
Marcel Rodriguez herbatana is crustacean safe
Hey Jake, I just wanted to take the time to say thank you. I am barely going into my one year mark on saltwater aquariums and I have not been finding success with any other videos out there. Your channel has really given me the tools & ambition to have high quality tanks! Thanks!
Couldn't agree more. People overlook this aspect of saltwater aquariums. Quarantine everything. I think that unless you medicate them, you're just rolling the dice. Ick isn't something you can always see. There's fish that carry them but are hardy enough to not become plagued by them. When you put them into your main display, they're going to colonize the aquarium or add to the pre-existing colony.
Love the video Jake! Very important topic. Thank you for sharing your methods with everyone 👌
Love the ventralis anthias. I’ve had my male for over a year and have a few females. Well worth the extra effort keeping them.
What do yours like to eat?
@@ReefBuildersVideo A variety of frozen food such as reef frenzy, calanus, brine(soaked in supplements) and PE mysis. Dry food consist of crushed PE mysis flake food.
It's been a while since i watch a full 20min of video, bravo, bien résumé !
That’s a great compliment, thanks
My Full time 9-5 day job is as a quarantine aquarist at a large public aquarium. We absolutely do not use bio bricks in our qt tanks because they can harbor all sorts of pathogens even after months of treatment. We use plastic macaroni style bio beads in a media bed. No stone or ceramic. 30-90 days minimum depending on species and symptoms ( or lack of). We start with formalin 14 days and then run copper 30 days for saltwater fish. Various Different antibiotics are used for bacterial infections, and other medications are used if there are different ectoparasites such as flukes or parasitic copepods. There is TONS of intricacy to this subject and you can never really know everything about quarantining fish. It’s an evolving field of research. For the home warm saltwater aquarist a preventative 10 days of formalin and then 10-30 days of copper is more than adequate if there are no symptoms of illness. Better yet , pay someone who knows what they’re doing to quarantine your new fish.
Jake once again dropping knowledge, hope to see you at Reefapalooza this coming month in NY.
A 76 day fallow for frags/inverts is daunting me right now but I'm hoping to try it with my first inverts in the next few months! The work that goes into QT makes me understand why so many people just dump fish/corals in 😂
Great video! Very informative on the fundamentals of quarantining. I'm looking forward to setting up my first one after reefing over 20 years.
My method is tank transfer method for 12 days (4 transfers). This is how I do it:
1. Prepare quarantine tank (can even be a bucket of appropriate size) with saltwater and airstone & airline tube with pump a day or two before. Use PVC for hiding spots.
2. Acquire specimen and acclimate to QT water. Do a 5-minute freshwater dip (some fishes may react drastically, don't worry, only fish that start slowing their breathing are typically in danger thus put into QT immediately).
3. Note the time the fish goes into the QT (e.g. 11pm)
4. Just before 72 hours on day 3 (e.g. 10.45pm day 3) move fish to a similar sized clean QT size with clean PVC and new airstone and airline tube. You can net it or use hand or use a collander.
5. Repeat every 3 days just before 72 hours (e.g. 10.30pm day 6, 10.15pm day 9 and 10.00pm day 12). Be sure to clean QT and PVC used with vinegar and dry until needed 3 days later.
6. Extra: On tail end of transfer 2 and 4 (day 5 and day 11) I use Prazipro for flukes/deworming. It's safe when dosed correctly even for sensitive wrasses. Aeration is mighty important during Prazi treatment. Use two airstones if needed.
7. Extra: Water changes not required since fish move to a new QT every 3 days but I have a large enough container that holds enough saltwater for 12 days, everyday I change 50% water. I feed daily though not required. You can feed at the tail end of each transfer day. Be sure to clean any water changing apparatus between uses thoroughly or use two of each and dry between uses.
7. Fourth transfer on day 12; in the display tank they go if all is well (no ich, eating well, breathing normal).
I know 12 days seems "too quick" but it has worked for me. You can observe the fish for two weeks after the fourth transfer to a QT but I don't do that. The plus side to this method is minimal chemical use. The downside is that you need a fair amount of salt and it's more "laborous" since you're moving the fish every 3 days and also cleaning/drying the equipment. Also, this only works for ich. I choose to do it at night since it fits my daily work schedule. If you get a new fish be sure to move to the QT at a time you are comfortable with.
For coral/invert quarantine, I have a cycled QT that I leave them in for 6 weeks since the last added specimen. Just a simple cycled QT with basic lights will do. I do a 50% water change after 3 weeks. I feed weekly. Reason for 6 weeks is to experiment with different foods, flow and feeding behaviour. Also, to check for the dreaded Aiptasia. Most importantly any ich that cysts on coral/rocks (though unlikely) will die off after 6 weeks. It's not 100% guaranteed ich free but it's as good as it can get.
Was waiting for a quarantine video from you
Great points Jake! Prazi ftw! Like you said catching parasites early is key. A secondary bacterial infection can be so difficult to deal with.
I love the ventralis anthias!!! And thanks for sharing you're knowledge.
Great video thanks, anything to help lymphocystis?
It good with eye Candy. But this is more important then eye Candy. SO PLEAS make more of this learning videos Tanks Jack. From Denmark
Great advice as always Jake. I dont think I heard you mention the tank transfer method??? I use it religiously, along with a double Prazipro dose (1 before TTM and 1 after) with any new addition and am yet to lose a fish to it or indeed have a fish show any sign of infection, including some delicate fish ie multiple fairy wrasses. I qt for a minimum 6 weeks inc cuc, corals and well, anything wet. 😂👍👌🙏🏴❤💚🐠
Never tried the TTF since it’s relatively new idea so I’m the meantime, I stick to what I know
Currently going through tank transfer with my first yellow tang, he's due to go into a QT for 2 week observation before acclimating to the DT. Great vid thanks Jake!
humblefish has shown reports on coral sand is fine to use. really good read it shows how to QT wrasse and how he has sand in all of his tanks that he QT.
You're probably asked this a hundred times.do you still put the copper treatment in the tank even if it's not visible ich on the fish?
The last part is what I was expecting.
You said that QT fish tank need not that much of light, but what about the anemones, do the QT tank of anemone needs the complete blue spectrum as present in display?
Can i just put any bio media in bottom of tank plastics ceramics is there a difference or i have to use the bricks
Great information, thanks for the video
RIP Jake #legend
has chloroquine phosphate gone out of favor in the hobby? At one point there was the hype of that being a "miracle drug" because it dealt with ich, velvet, brook, etc. and there was no apparent negative effects to it if you just treat a QT in general.
Mike B doubt its gone out of favour it’s just hard to test for correct levels and there isn’t a hobby grade test. Here in the uk it’s the go to option.
Why are you not a fan of frozen food. Nice video. I like starting with tank transferring for 5 days than follow qt tank.
It’s just really rich, and it has massively more phosphate than dry prepared food 🥘
What foods do you usually supply your anthias on top of the two little fishies to keep up with their dietary needs?
well done ,thank you
What kind of anthias do you have there?
Awesome video QT all day. The only thing you did not mention was internal parasites. How would you go about Treating internally . Hypo Salinity is my go to i have a Convict tang, queen angel and naso tang in hypo now. I lost one too many expensive fish to not QT great video.
Medicated food should help, but I really consider that an ‘advanced’ form of treatment. Internal parasites are pretty uncommon in typical aquarium fish
Another great video. I really respect your advice.
I wasn't quite clear in the video, do you automatically treat your fish, or do you just put them in the Qt tank to observe and only treat if you see something?
As far as Ick will having them in the tank for 21 days mean that any potential ick parasite will die off?
Thanks again.
Using the Marine Pure is inspired, as it should not remove copper or anything else but do much better biofiltration then a small piece of live rock, which will have to be thrown out anyway.
I’m new to the hobby but am about to pull the trigger with fish only setup. I have a few questions.....
-I realize you’re using a smaller tank for the quarantine. Any rule on the number of fish you can put in at once? For example, how many could you quarantine in a 10 gallon tank at once that would ultimately go in a 55 gallon?
Can you reuse the bio media when cleaning your qt tank for the next batch of fish?
I've heard mixed things on sand in the tank. Is it okay to put a small dish or cup of sand for things like watchman gobys
What a coincidence! Today I just put 4 carpenter wrasses in QT! And as it is with so many things in this hobby, it seems like there's a hundred different opinions on best practices. I was planning to dose copper as a prophylactic measure but now I'm having second thoughts. I don't want to unnecessarily stress the fish but I also I don't want to put the fish at risk by waiting until obvious signs of disease appear before medicating (I'm not confident that I would recognize symptoms early enough before it's too late). I really respect the opinion of veteran reef keepers like Jake (and even more so when they admit to the limits of their experience/knowledge) but does anyone with wrasse QT experience have a recommendation?
im a little confused, do you treat the fish anyway or only if u see some sort of problem. also how do you quarantine corals and inverts? also does dipping corals work instead of qt?
I know chloroquine phosphate will be absorbed by rocks and sponge type media meaning the therapeutic level could be compromised and as it’s not currently testable currently at hobby level I guess it’s important. As for copper, is it similar that the media will deteriorate? Luckily copper is testable using hobby grade test kits :)
After quarantining new fish for 4 weeks... they go into the main tank... then what is needed for the second round of fish? Say I'm planning to stock a reef tank that will be stocked in 3 or 4 steps... clownfish pair, then royal gramma, then possibly another fish, last a coral beauty angelfish... what is needed to do to the QT tank between fish?
If doing this, and ok with discarding the sand and/or rock.... can you have a small bit of sand or rock in the QT for biological filtration...? I know parasites can live in the sand, or their eggs can... will the medication kill those , or do you absolutely need bare bottom for QT?
I will also be setting up a fishless frag QT tank... as we are going to be stocking 2 or 3 new tanks in the next year....2 small, 1 medium sized tank...
Lots to learn to do things closer to right this time around... thanks for the video...
Does water in quarantine tank need to be completely cycled with microorganisms or bacteria? If so, how long to treat tank or introduce bacteria before introducing fish?
Love ur vids! Where is the peninsula
Can i put my QT on the floor? I dont have a stand, im already having a hard time convincing my parents to put another small tank apart from the Display. And the laundry room is the only place that it will be possible to put is that ok?
Yeah for sure
Do you have to use copper or can you just do hyper salinity and observe the fish for 30 days or more and if no trouble the fish should be ok?
Very helpful. But what does "kanaplex, neoplex" contain? There is a lot of snake oil in this hobby....
Kanamycin and Neomycin, sorry I should have stated that, well documented antibiotics
Reef Builders Thanks!
Where did you get that thermometer? I have been looking for one like that for ages!
So you don’t treat any fish unless they show signs of a disease or parasite. Just observation for 21 to 30 days?
How long do you have to cycle your QT
Would uv sterilizer be good for quarantine tank ?
Ok so if my local lfs has salinity of 1.20 how long should the drip acclimation be if mine is at 1.26
Jake are you running carbon in that hang on filter? If so, doesn't it filter out the copper and other medications? Thanks,
No carbon, just biomedia
Anyone here after buying there first purple tang only to have it give ick to all your old fish? Yeah I been feeling like shit for 2 days
Same thing happened to me but it was a blue tang
@@UBISOFT-DINOHUB1 yeah. And now with the price up in yellow tangs I decided to stop going for them and bought a fox face about 2 months ago. Great fish
When you said ventralis was on your list you weren't lying lol
so you're telling me if I want to start a nano reef tank I need to start 2 nano tanks because i need a quarantine ???
PraziPro sounds like a rapper name
How to threat or observer ick on a frag or a invert?
you don't - just isolate them from fish for a number of days
Great video Jake I'm always learning something new.I see the part about keeping the SG low @ 1.016-18 to start and understand you on that. And most fish coming from our LFS or online have a reduced SG around 1.020 so they will transition with less stress. At what point do you start acclimating them to a SG of 1.026 or what ever your main reef that they are going in?
What about a saltwater fish that disappear in the tank
So why don't you like frozen food? nice to see some educational videos! :)
FF is rich, expensive, it leads many people to having obese fish and the worst part is that it puts such a tax on the biological filter of any aquarium, and adds so much phosphate. It's nothing inherently wrong with FF, except that people just feed it way WAY too much.
So I don’t add any dr. Tim’s one and only bacteria I also have sponge filter
Can you mix copper and prazipro ?
Yes
@@ReefBuildersVideo I appreciate the response. You think I should dose copper 1 day , do a 50 percent water change then dose prazipro then repeat?
When using hyposalinity, should we be monitoring ph and/or alk? Do we need to increase it if it dips? I've heard that since there is less buffering capacity in the low salinity water, ph can start to fall since the water is pretty diluted.
Yes you are right about the connection with hypo, alk and pH but fish don't really care. The remaining buffering capacity is more than sufficient to keep pH 'hihg enough'
Would you quarantine the first fish into a brand new tank?
Don't parasites just go into biomedia it's kind of doing the same as live rock is it not?
DDOT good question, pretty sure it would.
You are correct however it’s much easier to pull out and dry it out or soak in Fw and the. Restart it
Great video. I'm currently QTing with the same products. I use cupramine for 30 days, follow by prazipro for a week before fish go into DT.
You can prazi and copper at the same time
@@ReefBuildersVideo Really? Man I did not know you can mixed them. I was told not to.
Uhmmm, questionable filtration media in a quaranteen tank
Can I quarantine fish and coral together?
Not advisable
We don't believe in the quarantine what are you talkin about
and then the qt tank becomes another display and you get a new qt tank and the cycle continues lol
Stranger things have happened
I just got a 40 gal convinced my wife to use it as a quarantine but now it had 2 kessil lights and frag racks being ordered lol
Lol. It's a slippery slope
No love for wrasses?? Lol, You are correct they do need special attention but once establish nearly bullet proof, especially the elegant leopards.
I'm new to the hobby. What about quarantining live rock? Is it necessary? I wouldn't think since it's part of the cycling process but I am still learning. Thanks in advance.
nice video about quarantining fish,
How do you sterilise the equipment and bio media for a QT after your finished and don't have the space to have a QT system running the whole year around?
well, don't use the ceramic bio blocks as they can bind medication. concerning wrasses that like to burrow in sand, just put a pyrex bowl filled with silica sand as that sand does not bind meds.
So how do you do? Water change on a non-cycled QT tank do I have to have two QT tank for easy transfer?
What food do you use for Ventralis anthias ?
Why are you against frozen food?
Why are you not a fan of frozen foods? I've had great success with LRS.
Frozen food is really expensive, very rich, and many people have obese fish with exopthalmia from constantly toy feeding it - not to mention all the phosphates it adds to your water. Like anything else use it in moderation but reefers feed it every day, instead of like twice a week
Does this work for freshwater fish too?
(Minus the salt, obviously lol)
Hey Jake, great video! I myself am a big proponent of quarantine and prophylactic treatment of all fish with prazy and copper. I understand that a lot of fish can carry the disease without any external symptoms so would really like to hear your thoughts on this and why you choose only to treat for visible signs of disease. Thanks!
Would you mind sharing your quarantine protocols ? I’m planning to setup a quarantine tank soon and prophylactic treatment seems to be the best technique for long term success. Thanks
@@neilc1978 sure. It may be a bit intricate and long to explain the rationale behind the protocol. Basically I use prazi for the first two weeks, 90% water change, ramp up Copper power over 4-6 days using a doser to dose 4 tines per day so that it is a really smooth increase, leave the fish 🐠at full therapeutic level for at least 10 days and than transfer to the display. Why 10 days instead of the common 30? Well, the copper will only kill the parasite in their free swimming fase which occurs either when it drops of the fish to encyst onto a hard surface (protomonts) or when the hatch and go look for a new host (Theronts). It takes 3-7 days for the parasites to drop and become protomonts in which case the 10 day full therapeautic dose will kill them before they encyst. On the other hand, any theronts that hatch during this period will also be killed and will not attach to the fish. Ideally you would than transfer to an observation tank but I don’t. Instead I will acclimate to tank water and place in the main tank by taking these precautions: remove water from the main display and add to that the required copper dose to bring it up to therapeautic level (this water may NEVER be returned to the main display !!!!). Drip acclimate using this water. After the acclimation rinse the fish in tank water and finally put it i to the main display. A lot of people make the mistake of leaving copper for 30 days, drip the levels and observe for another 2/4 weeks. Some strains of ich have been known to encyst up to 72 days in a hard surface (hence the 77 days fallow period rule 😉) which means if you leave the fish in QT after treating and lowering the copper level you run the risk of re infection. In fact, that is why a lot of people who quarantine end up having mysterious outbreaks in spite of theoretically doing everything well. So this 10 day protocol is more effective than a traditional 30 + observation (in the same tank) and exposes the fish to copper for a third of the time. Hope this helps 🙂
@@vascojardim6703 greatly appreciate your detailed response and thank you very much for the education!!
@@neilc1978 My pleasure 🙂
I know this is an "older" video but using the bio-media brick... cant pests just insert themselves onto the brick? Doesnt the brick suck up medications if you use medications?
Very informative video. Question I have is, what about the parasites you don’t see. For example, ich in the gills that don’t show up in the QT? Now, they’re in the DT and you have to pull them and QT again.
I live in a 1200sqf condo and my dt is 50 gallons. I haven’t ever done a qt or quarantine process as I don’t have any room in my condo for a second setup.
Is there any recommendation on how to quarantine with limited space?
How do you quarantine coral differently to make sure no ichs on it since you cant use copper with coral or invertebrates
Do you have to have a small powerhead or can you use a bubbler and power filter?
What about coral in quarten tank that has been compere? For corals?
Do you treat your qt as a preventative measure or only when symptoms are present?
I like to use a light, 1 to check fish and 2 to keep them on schedule
Tiger Angel looks awesome great information Jake
Thank you for the information!
GREAT VID
hey thank you for your video.
Where is that merch at? I need a RB shirt!
Which test strip r u using for this Quarntine setup....???
Aqua vital Marine Test
All that water by the electrical panel got me worried
I keep a wide berth around it, this hospital tank is no longer there
Also, do you not use a protein skimmer on your quarantine tank?
No
How do you sterilize the Hanna salinity checker?
Dry it out
Reef Builders Can't spores withstand drying?