I liked the old guys on spokane autozone they seemed to know their stuff. The kids working there were hilarious. Had to teach one how to type pulley ( he kept typing pully ). I aint no where near expert on the subject how to type anything. But Im also from Finland, so that's my excuse.
I'm happy to have a decent brick-n-mortar parts store relatively close by. I try to support them, but its getting harder. I don't have a problem with a 25-30% premium for buying local, but when prices are close to double what the same part would cost online, its a much tougher decision. And often as not it isn't in stock so they have to order it, which means waiting a couple of days and a second trip. Cheaper, easier and almost as fast to have the big brown truck drop it on my doorstep.
Came to comments to say pretty much the same thing. And when Amazon can have the same or better part at my door the very next day, I'd almost have to be stupid to buy a lot of parts from the store. Just recently, I replaced an Alternator on a car. $200 for a junk reman from parts stores. $150 for a BRAND NEW one from a reputable brand delivered next day by Amazon. If someone doesn't need their car right away, I pretty much just tell them to give me 2 or 3 days to Diagnose, Order parts, and fix it.
Tony, those urethane bushings have been my go to for about 30 years...they will WAKE UP a cars handling and improve tire wear. Do to decreased deflection, the geometry is maintained better. A first gen Mustang becomes a slot car. My 91 Chevy pick up has had a set in it for the past 350000 miles...and I regurlarly get 60-70000 miles out of a set of tires. For the road, I set the camber straight up...twist as much caster as I can in it..and a 16th toe in...and let her eat.
I used to sneer at those old Chargers, being a massive fan of the 68-70 ones, but after seeing this one a bit I have become a fan of the body style. Great stuff.
My dad bought a Charger like that when he got back from Vietnam. 440 4 spd black paint and black interior. My mother sold it in Greeneville Tn. around 1975. As a young boy I still remember how badass that car was.
Your manifold solution is simple and elegant, nice work! NAPA used to be my goto place too, but the problem with NAPA now is they don't want to sell stuff that's inexpensive. I tried to get caliper rebuild kits for my CJ-7 recently and the guy at NAPA didn't even look it up, just said "Nope, don't got it but we have complete calipers for $78 each". I went across the street to O'Reilly and they had them in stock for under $19 for two.
Hah, four years ago, I needed a new tie rod end - for a car which was going to be scrapped! Because I was intent on driving it to the scrapyard. So I went to O'Reilly's and they wanted like $30 or a little more, which I would've begrudgingly paid since I had only a few more days of insurance left on that car, but then they told me that they'd have to get it transferred or shipped to the store. So I told them to not worry about it, and went across the street to Autozone, and they had one in stock for $10.99!
NAPA was long my favorite too. Good selection and in my experience more knowledgeable staff than the other outfits. But their prices lately have been insane. Those ball joint boots should be 99 cents, not $9.99
Yeah, I think that satiney black'll be much nicer than the ratroddey 'Hot rod black.' I think white's my favorite for those, but probably on a body with less of a rough history. :) (And there's a silver-blue I used to see on Coronets that would probably look real nice. )
When Uncle Tony said “Kiwi’s classics and something, I need you at the finish line man your the only one I trust” made me bust out laughing 😂. I love how Tony has only gotten the name right once but has always messed it up every other time. Classic Uncle Tony, this is why I love this channel. The sense of humor and how Tony and Kathy do stuff on this channel is awesome. I love it! You guys rock man! 👍
TCP paint is great for hobbyists. I think the boot price was a supply/demand issue. Nobody replaces boots anymore, they just replace the whole assy. Slow moving inventory and shelf space demand a premium for a $1 part.
Could be, or it could be an up sell strategy. In the ag/construction world, there's a valve on a variable displacement pump called a compensator valve. It's a little thing, but it costs 1/2 to 2/3 the price of a pump! To add insult to injury, it also comes on every pump. That means you are gambling on whether or not it actually fixes the issue. They are priced so expensive that most people end up buying the pump instead. Very similar to UT's boot dilemma. The boots are priced so that you might as well get the whole ball joint instead.
That intake heater will work a treat. And remember that once you are at wide open throttle there is so much air speed, flow volume fuel vaporisation that the intake runners dont transfer a ton of heat into the charge under WOT anyhow. Its a win win.👍 Fellow Ludite 👌
Uncle Tony, I don’t know who makes those bushings… but do yourself a BIG favor and make sure they have poly graphite added to them. The energy suspension red bushings do not. They come with grease to keep them quiet, but as per their instructions, they say that the red bushings are for “show cars that won’t see much mileage”. Because they do not have the poly graphite added to them, they become squeaking disaster, nightmares within a very short amount of time it takes for that grease to wear out. Most brands of polyurethane bushing that are black have been impregnated with graphite for smooth quiet operation.
Back in 87 I replaced all my front suspension bushings with the red urethane. It squeeked like crazy. About drove me insane till I changed them back to rubber.
@@milesgraham9645 depending on the install, grease fittings can be added and keep a dedicated gun with the right lube. On a side note, my summer car has had em since 2003 and no squeaks ever, and no grease fittings.
Dust Boot was a great movie, showing the bravery and suffering of the German Navy during WW2. Sorry, I'll see myself out. As always, BRAVO, Uncle Tony!
That twilight charcoal metallic would look killer on that first gen charger!🤟🏼 "Charcoal Charger"... that dark silver color would highlight its body lines really beautifully
Theres a 67 charger in my neck of the woods thats the original mopar color: LL1 paint code: "Dark Turquoise metallic", has black interior, black bumpers, blacked out 60's style nascar steelies rims. It looks sweet
Last year at this time I was visiting USA and fixed this 74 Matador to drive from Spokane to Oklahoma. Learned pretty fast that Napa was the last freaking place to buy ANYTHING!. The car had no keys so I had to go get tools and a new switch, so my friend took me to napa. So I get the tool and the new switch and the guy at the counter goes "That will be 79,90$" so I go geeeesh?? How much were the tools??? And the seller goes " oh no its the switch, they are really expensive". I went to argue the guy that it cant be cause its the same switch they use in chevies but he was telling me that the prices had gone up. Im a mopar guy with a birds brain so after a lil arguing I came to the conclusion that I had remembered them being dirt cheap wasnt the case and I was wrong. So I took my 59,90$ switch and moved along but forgot to buy some other part so we went to autozone. For shits and giggles my friend asks about their price on the same switch and the guy at the counter goes 14,90$. I got so pissed off that I drove back to napa, returned the old switch and bough the one at autozone and never went back to napa. And special thanks for O'reillys guys who helped me with the alternator pulley on the parking lot of some town that I cant remember. And Napa can still suck a fat... Wiener..
Dad had a brand new '66 383 Charger red ♥️ there was a lot of childhood memories. My cousin weaseled it from my dad. Later we heard he sold it to roll a profit, some kids got it . Drank & ran from the Sheriff they died when they wrapped it around a very large tree.
Didn't realize that you love the Charger as much as I do, sorry for buggin you about it. You're running a clinic on how to ensure your classic car is fresh when you start it the first time. Thanks Uncle Tony, great video as always.
AWESOME vid as usual. LCA bushings that new type you got I wish I saw that when I replaced my LCA bushings. I wound up replacing the LCA pivot shafts that are greaseable, alittle costly, but done. MOPAR 4 EVER.
Suddenly there was an influx of people who remember the car. Sure. One of them on a forum I'm on got *super* upset at old Uncle Tony, and said he helped the Qualls decide how to bring the car back out to the public. My reaction, though I didn't say it, was "So you've got skin in this game, of fucking _course_ you'd take exception to the video." The buyer's on there too and called the video bullshit, saying Tony's "trashing" the old muscle cars to earn ad revenue. Apparently calling shit out when you see it is not okay.
You are not wrong gues it supply and demand I did the same thing with a coolant NPT reducer fitting 1/2 to 3/8 needed it now found it at advance $10 for one and when I got home ordered 10 online for $13 Crazy
I understand Tony's frustration. While collecting parts for the past 3 plus years for my 1988 dually, it was "Cheaper" to buy the Entire part as opposed to the Rubber Covering alone. Even with 498k miles on the old girl, the steering was still tight, the rubber ball joint coverings were totally gone. So now, she's got all new parts in the steering.
The blower motor resistor in my Nissan Maxima recently failed. Napa is the closest parts store to my house. Napa wanted $100 for a replacement resistor assembly. Amazon had it with next day shipping for $16. Napa is starting to lose me too.
i know it varies from place to place, but my local napa has always sucked. ive always elected to drive 16miles to the nearest autozone lol or order online. the napa in my town is always ordering me the wrong parts 🤦♂️
Same for the wife's 14 Jetta. Resistor was like 65$ from the dealer or 50 locally from a junk box store, or 21$ on Amazon. Guess who won. Heck I could buy a couple spares for that $$$. 5mo and it's still working though.
I buy the kit out of Rock Auto , I think it’s ProForged. Your kit would probably be a 120-10005 .Includes urethane bushing, larger diameter pivot and has a zerk fitting to install on the end to grease it as well . Great kit. Just used a set on my Duster
Those poly bushings will keep alignment more precise as well i may have com.ented that when you did the OG bushing video. I put them on my upper arms as well. My alignment guy was cringing when i told him i was bringing in a 68 A body thinking he wasn't going to have enough adjustment as usual on old mopar. But after he set it up he said he had plenty to get it right and was impressed by the poly. I will say they are a bit harsher on bumps but def seems to corner better.
Had a similar experience recently with a heater hose for my S10. It's a molded hose about a foot long, with a 90° bend in it. O'Reilly and Advance both want $30 for a Gates hose, but neither one had any in stock. Same hose on Amazon $16.99 and AC Delco was $14.99. The Delco hose arrived sooner, so I ordered it and ran with the radiator cap loose for a couple days. 👍👍
I have lately had much better results with females at the parts counter than the old school 'parts man'. I wanted a shorter serpentine belt to bypass a power steering pump on an old pickup. I had the measurement of the belt I needed. I told the partsman the belt I wanted. He had to look up application. The second partsman tried to measure my serpentine belt with a v-belt measuring tool. I said forget it. I went to the other parts store, same brand. Two young women at the counter. I thought "Oh boy". I told them what I wanted, they went and got it. I tried it on my truck, too long. Went back in, I said I needed next one shorter. They got it. That belt worked perfect. Paid for it and said you guys are Awesome! They are my goto 'Partspeople' from now on.
I went to Napa a few weeks ago to get a 5/16 to 3/8 fuel line adapter. Just a male to female fitting.... $20.00, I thanked them for looking for me and left without it. I could not believe what they wanted for a simple fitting.
I’ve been turning wrenches professionally for decades. Yesterday my oldest son called me because he needed a 4pin relay for his cooling fan, they wanted $180 for a freaking relay that is a switch that maybe has 5cents of copper. I have never seen anything like it before.
Can't believe that you're not entering the dart in the Indy 500 now that you have it figured out! By the way I'm hoping to build my 440 with long rams for my dually this winter and plan on using steel brackets bolted to the headers via header bolt with a plate that lets the intake float on it, as not bolted to the bracket, for heat transfer and depending on how it works I also thought of using the shroud technique like you used, in fact that's what I thought you should do when I watch your video when you were discussing the issues you were having with a cold intake. Had a feeling that is what you would as it is the rather obvious and simple solution.
Funny thing is when UTG said he’s going to the video from Dr. Art, it went straight to a Google Chrome commercial. Thankfully the Dr. Art video played after the commercial. Lol
I went to NAPA today and got 6 qts, a filter, and a can-o-carb cleaner: $63.00, and I still have to do the work!! Why, I remember when you could get a tune-up, oil change and tire rotation for $63.00, while you read the newspaper.
The boot lid area - a prime example (HA - no pun intended) of how some primers allow water to penetrate. All of that grey primer will need to be removed - the rust removed/neutralised - then a good epoxy primer should be applied. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Gee Tony, I just replaced the LCA bushings on my coronet with those same ones last month, and now my transmission is puking from the front seal! I'm retroactively blaming you for this one.
I just like looking for all of the lightening holes you have added to your "leaning tower of power race car" and things like your Accel yellow box coil that were common back in the "Good old days"!
Ive got that same trail bike. With a 212cc tilitson, vm22 carb, ported head, cam, billet rod.. running thru a 30 series tq comverter and juggernaut driver stalled up to 4200.. thing rips ass. Those things are so fun to hot rod, cheap too !!!
I have searched the world over trying to find a 3/8 fuel filter with 1/4 return, they are discontinued now. I found one parts store in Indianapolis with a rear main in stock, they had two so I bought both.. That color will look awesome on that car!
The ball joints in my Chrysler C body is just fine, not even a few years old. The main problem lies in the durability of the ball joint dust boots that Moog has, tends to rip & shred in about 1 year, considering moving to leather parts like some earlier car parts were made of, example is a Ball & trunnion joint that had a leather dust boot cover, much more durable i'd assume. Similar story i had a few days back was with some 5/8 return line power steering hose, the counter guy rang me up for $137 USD. ?!?!?! The guy went to the back of the store and had one of the more knowledgeable gentleman ring me up instead down to $16 USD. Tony, Totally understand the "adding parts with another wire" sort of thing, I'm currently trying to get my divorced choke to work without needing to retrofit to an electronic choke twist dial style, it just feels more OEM and reliable in a sense, where you don't need to screw with it, set it and forget it.
I had the same problem with a '57 Desoto. All the moog rubber boots cracked in less than 2 years. Switched to energy suspension poly boots last year. No cracking so far, but time will tell. They have a chart with dimensions, if not listed for your specific vehicle. Mine are the same boots for a H2 Hummer.
That's a clue they use that junk Chinese rubber. Not sure what the Chinese miss in their rubber formulation but it falls apart within 1-2yrs at the most.
@@scrappy7571 yeah I hear ya, they used to be decent....I'm tired of saying that about every older well known brand that's sold it's quality to the lowest bidder
Here in Australia we have NAPA but also an old Australian parts store called Repco that is still reasonably competent. I too give up and go online when the local price is silly.
First... I've had to remove several of those fancy noisy bushings that I didn't install. Second. I had the same experience with the (dust boots)grease caps.$$$ Three. Maintaining the temp without going "overheat" might be tricky. I wish you all the luck.(I mean that sincerely) Fourth. The call out race against a battery......(Don Garlits electric dragster) Sofa King funny with the wager. (actual steaks)
Don’t go looking for banjo bolts for calipers are whatever cuz nobody has em.. and the reason stuffs so expensive is because people are going online to buy parts!? so the markup is ridiculously high to keep the chain stores doors open!!
Ace has quarts of good black Ace brand satin paint. Low-cost can thin it with all oil base products including gas. Make a wheelie bar with a couple of skateboard Wheels for the little mini bike that's your best bet.The other one is geared to high
Try getting CV joint boots. My minivan CV joints needed new boots, they were leaking. It was 50 bucks for two boots and 60 bucks for an axle shaft. I bought the shaft. Happy Motoring.
You're lucky, Kiwi didn't raid your trashcan. Then sell you your own control arm bushing sleeves back to you 😆 Those little electric buggers can haul ass. A fair fight would be to race your minibikes on the Pan Americana circuit, one talk full against a battery charge
I think what’s happened is most everybody has adopted the movie theater pricing. They raise the price of the cheap stuff so the expensive stuff seems like a better deal. Most stuff isn’t worth rebuilding anymore since you’ll have almost as much in parts as just getting a whole new one.
Each auto part store has it perks but I think Oreillys is becoming my favorite that "performance" wall has saved my ass a ton.NAPA however has good stock they just charge an arm,your first born and a date with your grandma.
High energy polyurethane bushings once you change them once you'll probably never have to change him again they're great bushings I use them on everything including my semis they have a blue polyurethane too and they're even stiffer than the red ones
Red urethane has a bad rep down under. Most of us hate the stuff, and prefer rubber. Paying about $AU100 for a set of ball joint seals here, but B body lower joints are $AU180 each, or around $AU80 each for local A body.
Tony, I have a big ass box of NOS caps, rotor, points & condensers, (& plugs: Bosch, NGK, Autolite) for Ford, Mopar & Chev I want to send you. I partnered in a small parts in the early '80's. I was buying this inventory from a company in Detroit area selling this stuff made by OEM's. High quality, could not tell the difference between dealership parts & these; I compared samples b4 I started using them in our repair shop & selling them, retail. I got throat cancer in '20, had surgery, relapsed in '21, had rad & chemo. Now, it's in my liver. I need to know how to get the stuff to you. You're the only one who will appreciate it. In my attic, since the biz ended in '84, it needs a home, or it's gonna be trash when I die. GeoD
Should be fun to see. The electric skateboard or whatever is going to pull out first. You might pass him with those tiny tires he has. But the pocket bike, I don't think has enough track to get up to speed and pass.
I work PT at an auto parts store. The prices have gotten insane and, what gets me, we have to order common parts. You know, the parts that were kept on hand because they sold them frequently. Crying shame.
Circa 1980 my future Lovely Bride worked at an electronics store. They hired me to help with inventory. I was staggered to find out that an electronic part that they were selling for about $1.00 cost them about 4 CENTS. I also had a buddy who had worked for a Suzuki motorcycle dealer in the late 70s. A Suzuki GT380 motorcycle sold off the floor for about $1900. His parts manager had a slow time and calculated that if you built the same bike from the spare parts catalogue it would cost you TWENTY ONE THOUSAND DOLLARS! So, spare parts have always had massive profit margins built in.
Would work for a while, then wear out, and make the suspension sound like the car is driving with stone tires. Put a moog vertical bushing in that was sort of like a spherical bearing in a car, worked great for about 6 months, then had the customer come back with a front end sounding like you were landing the car like you were Bo Duke. Turns out, that the regular style bushings would have been a better idea. Thought I was doing my customer a favor using the premium bushing. It got a moog replacement, but with the regular style. Look up moog PN K200792 for an example of the bushing installed.
Everyone started going to Autozone and drove the good places right out of business to save $2. Where I grew up we had 2 fabulous Indy Stores in a small 30,000 pop town (and more in all the outlying towns) you could literally have almost any part you needed at a reasonable price within 45mins of home and for ANY car, foreign or domestic, heck they sold tune up parts for domestics at the hardware stores even. Now we are forced to basically go online or pay 4x the price at the chain stores for an inferior part.
Found out I made my lower jeep control arms wrong. It's why I have to tack weld the jam joints. Need a heim joint to go with the bushing. I like the ones with a mounted inner sleeve when it comes to bushings. I used a heim joint on upper wishbone. Why not warm the fuel line? It's how i get the high compression 460 big block to run e85 after it's warm. Going with solar/electric on my 12' v bottom boat. Electric motorcycles make sense accept they don't come with flexible roll up solar panels.
Last time I went to advance auto, I just needed a set of Autolite 3924 sparkplugs. First I'm greeted in the parking lot by an employee taking a smoke break, little dude wants to check out my truck I drove there in, wants to see the engine and all that shit, waste about 3p minutes of my time in the fuckin parking lot, then I finally get inside and it's closing time, so nobody knows shit, can't find the plugs, and I also wanted some cork SBC valvecover gaskets. That was definitely off the menu. Don't know what happened to that place, used to be alright. But like everything else, it's definitely gone to shit. And all the other chain auto part stores ain't much better. I order most my shit online these days and just deal with the wait.
Good on you uncle Tony, those bushing kits you’re using there. They are good to work with but I’ve gotta admit I’ve regretted using them many times because the ride on the suspension is just way too hard for me Personally the original rubber is best I reckon
One thing about polyurethane bushings if there isn't a way to grease them through a grease Fitting they can start to squeak after a Few years If there's no way to put a grease fitting in You can always wrap the metal Sleeve that goes Inside the bushing with a couple wraps of teflon tape and the grease only use marine grease or the stuff that's provided
I understand your pain. I needed three quarts of Dextron VI for my Chevy Traverse. The total almost made me pass out. $35.00. I almost sh*t right there on the floor. On line would have saved about $3.00 per qt. Crazy.
Very few old school parts stores anymore. I went in advance auto parts. Wanting a 13 pound radiator cap. What a side show that turned into.
"I'm sorry, but our radiator caps all weigh only two pounds..."
What color is your vehicle sir
I liked the old guys on spokane autozone they seemed to know their stuff. The kids working there were hilarious. Had to teach one how to type pulley ( he kept typing pully ). I aint no where near expert on the subject how to type anything. But Im also from Finland, so that's my excuse.
Does it have power steering? And ac? Do you know what wheel base? lol
Is it 2 or 4WD?
I'm happy to have a decent brick-n-mortar parts store relatively close by. I try to support them, but its getting harder. I don't have a problem with a 25-30% premium for buying local, but when prices are close to double what the same part would cost online, its a much tougher decision. And often as not it isn't in stock so they have to order it, which means waiting a couple of days and a second trip. Cheaper, easier and almost as fast to have the big brown truck drop it on my doorstep.
Unfortunately, true.
Came to comments to say pretty much the same thing. And when Amazon can have the same or better part at my door the very next day, I'd almost have to be stupid to buy a lot of parts from the store. Just recently, I replaced an Alternator on a car. $200 for a junk reman from parts stores. $150 for a BRAND NEW one from a reputable brand delivered next day by Amazon. If someone doesn't need their car right away, I pretty much just tell them to give me 2 or 3 days to Diagnose, Order parts, and fix it.
Kathy you are an awesome cinematographer. We experience your POV thru your expertise. Thank you Lady!
Tony, those urethane bushings have been my go to for about 30 years...they will WAKE UP a cars handling and improve tire wear. Do to decreased deflection, the geometry is maintained better. A first gen Mustang becomes a slot car. My 91 Chevy pick up has had a set in it for the past 350000 miles...and I regurlarly get 60-70000 miles out of a set of tires. For the road, I set the camber straight up...twist as much caster as I can in it..and a 16th toe in...and let her eat.
I used to sneer at those old Chargers, being a massive fan of the 68-70 ones, but after seeing this one a bit I have become a fan of the body style.
Great stuff.
My dad bought a Charger like that when he got back from Vietnam. 440 4 spd black paint and black interior. My mother sold it in Greeneville Tn. around 1975. As a young boy I still remember how badass that car was.
Your manifold solution is simple and elegant, nice work! NAPA used to be my goto place too, but the problem with NAPA now is they don't want to sell stuff that's inexpensive. I tried to get caliper rebuild kits for my CJ-7 recently and the guy at NAPA didn't even look it up, just said "Nope, don't got it but we have complete calipers for $78 each". I went across the street to O'Reilly and they had them in stock for under $19 for two.
There's loyalty, and then there's your wallet. Sorry, friend... but survival. I grew up with NAPA. I tend to try to support them, against all odds.
As a kid I remember my Dad honing a master cylinder for a rebuild. Good luck getting a piston for that job today.
Hah, four years ago, I needed a new tie rod end - for a car which was going to be scrapped! Because I was intent on driving it to the scrapyard. So I went to O'Reilly's and they wanted like $30 or a little more, which I would've begrudgingly paid since I had only a few more days of insurance left on that car, but then they told me that they'd have to get it transferred or shipped to the store. So I told them to not worry about it, and went across the street to Autozone, and they had one in stock for $10.99!
NAPA was long my favorite too. Good selection and in my experience more knowledgeable staff than the other outfits. But their prices lately have been insane.
Those ball joint boots should be 99 cents, not $9.99
Good choice on the color for the Charger! Can't wait to see it.
Yeah, I think that satiney black'll be much nicer than the ratroddey 'Hot rod black.' I think white's my favorite for those, but probably on a body with less of a rough history. :) (And there's a silver-blue I used to see on Coronets that would probably look real nice. )
When Uncle Tony said “Kiwi’s classics and something, I need you at the finish line man your the only one I trust” made me bust out laughing 😂.
I love how Tony has only gotten the name right once but has always messed it up every other time. Classic Uncle Tony, this is why I love this channel. The sense of humor and how Tony and Kathy do stuff on this channel is awesome. I love it! You guys rock man! 👍
TCP paint is great for hobbyists. I think the boot price was a supply/demand issue. Nobody replaces boots anymore, they just replace the whole assy. Slow moving inventory and shelf space demand a premium for a $1 part.
Could be, or it could be an up sell strategy. In the ag/construction world, there's a valve on a variable displacement pump called a compensator valve. It's a little thing, but it costs 1/2 to 2/3 the price of a pump! To add insult to injury, it also comes on every pump. That means you are gambling on whether or not it actually fixes the issue. They are priced so expensive that most people end up buying the pump instead. Very similar to UT's boot dilemma. The boots are priced so that you might as well get the whole ball joint instead.
That intake heater will work a treat. And remember that once you are at wide open throttle there is so much air speed, flow volume fuel vaporisation that the intake runners dont transfer a ton of heat into the charge under WOT anyhow. Its a win win.👍 Fellow Ludite 👌
Uncle Tony, I don’t know who makes those bushings… but do yourself a BIG favor and make sure they have poly graphite added to them. The energy suspension red bushings do not. They come with grease to keep them quiet, but as per their instructions, they say that the red bushings are for “show cars that won’t see much mileage”. Because they do not have the poly graphite added to them, they become squeaking disaster, nightmares within a very short amount of time it takes for that grease to wear out. Most brands of polyurethane bushing that are black have been impregnated with graphite for smooth quiet operation.
Back in 87 I replaced all my front suspension bushings with the red urethane. It squeeked like crazy. About drove me insane till I changed them back to rubber.
yup, get ready to learn the hard way
urethane bushings need to be greased. Most ES kits include a micro gram of lube, so i usually sub dielectric grease or any good syn chassis grease
The black bushings have graphite added to the mix to prevent the squeaking. I’ll never use the red again!
@@milesgraham9645 depending on the install, grease fittings can be added and keep a dedicated gun with the right lube.
On a side note, my summer car has had em since 2003 and no squeaks ever, and no grease fittings.
I'm rating this rant a 7/10! I would have gave it a 10 but there was no Italian swear words and not enough hand waving!
🤣👉🏽👍🏽🫵🏽 VAFFANCULLO 😂
Dust Boot was a great movie, showing the bravery and suffering of the German Navy during WW2. Sorry, I'll see myself out. As always, BRAVO, Uncle Tony!
That twilight charcoal metallic would look killer on that first gen charger!🤟🏼 "Charcoal Charger"... that dark silver color would highlight its body lines really beautifully
Theres a 67 charger in my neck of the woods thats the original mopar color: LL1 paint code: "Dark Turquoise metallic", has black interior, black bumpers, blacked out 60's style nascar steelies rims. It looks sweet
Last year at this time I was visiting USA and fixed this 74 Matador to drive from Spokane to Oklahoma. Learned pretty fast that Napa was the last freaking place to buy ANYTHING!. The car had no keys so I had to go get tools and a new switch, so my friend took me to napa. So I get the tool and the new switch and the guy at the counter goes "That will be 79,90$" so I go geeeesh?? How much were the tools??? And the seller goes " oh no its the switch, they are really expensive". I went to argue the guy that it cant be cause its the same switch they use in chevies but he was telling me that the prices had gone up. Im a mopar guy with a birds brain so after a lil arguing I came to the conclusion that I had remembered them being dirt cheap wasnt the case and I was wrong. So I took my 59,90$ switch and moved along but forgot to buy some other part so we went to autozone. For shits and giggles my friend asks about their price on the same switch and the guy at the counter goes 14,90$. I got so pissed off that I drove back to napa, returned the old switch and bough the one at autozone and never went back to napa. And special thanks for O'reillys guys who helped me with the alternator pulley on the parking lot of some town that I cant remember. And Napa can still suck a fat... Wiener..
Dad had a brand new '66 383 Charger red ♥️ there was a lot of childhood memories. My cousin weaseled it from my dad. Later we heard he sold it to roll a profit, some kids got it . Drank & ran from the Sheriff they died when they wrapped it around a very large tree.
Didn't realize that you love the Charger as much as I do, sorry for buggin you about it.
You're running a clinic on how to ensure your classic car is fresh when you start it the first time. Thanks Uncle Tony, great video as always.
AWESOME vid as usual. LCA bushings that new type you got I wish I saw that when I replaced my LCA bushings. I wound up replacing the LCA pivot shafts that are greaseable, alittle costly, but done. MOPAR 4 EVER.
Hey Tony, the internet is going insane over the black ghost thing.. maybe we need a part 2 video on it 😂
I haven't really cared enough to keep up. what's needing an update?
I had somebody tell me that the 426 in the Black Ghost was a factory 1,000 horsepower engine. Not kidding.
Suddenly there was an influx of people who remember the car. Sure. One of them on a forum I'm on got *super* upset at old Uncle Tony, and said he helped the Qualls decide how to bring the car back out to the public.
My reaction, though I didn't say it, was "So you've got skin in this game, of fucking _course_ you'd take exception to the video."
The buyer's on there too and called the video bullshit, saying Tony's "trashing" the old muscle cars to earn ad revenue.
Apparently calling shit out when you see it is not okay.
It might be rocking chair time and bring facts to the idiots who are on the black ghost bandwagon.
the mystery could be solved by a simple quarter mile run
I'm PRETTY SURE that Uncle Tony can put together a minibike that can SMOKE ANY little electric car!
You are not wrong gues it supply and demand I did the same thing with a coolant NPT reducer fitting 1/2 to 3/8 needed it now found it at advance $10 for one and when I got home ordered 10 online for $13
Crazy
I understand Tony's frustration. While collecting parts for the past 3 plus years for my 1988 dually, it was "Cheaper" to buy the Entire part as opposed to the Rubber Covering alone.
Even with 498k miles on the old girl, the steering was still tight, the rubber ball joint coverings were totally gone. So now, she's got all new parts in the steering.
UT, elegant solution for Plan Z's intake heat. I like it alot !
The blower motor resistor in my Nissan Maxima recently failed. Napa is the closest parts store to my house. Napa wanted $100 for a replacement resistor assembly. Amazon had it with next day shipping for $16. Napa is starting to lose me too.
i know it varies from place to place, but my local napa has always sucked. ive always elected to drive 16miles to the nearest autozone lol or order online. the napa in my town is always ordering me the wrong parts 🤦♂️
Same for the wife's 14 Jetta.
Resistor was like 65$ from the dealer or 50 locally from a junk box store, or 21$ on Amazon.
Guess who won.
Heck I could buy a couple spares for that $$$.
5mo and it's still working though.
I just used those on my 72 Charger. They are great so far. Much more solid. I put the torsion bars in before tightening nut.
I buy the kit out of Rock Auto , I think it’s ProForged. Your kit would probably be a 120-10005 .Includes urethane bushing, larger diameter pivot and has a zerk fitting to install on the end to grease it as well . Great kit. Just used a set on my Duster
Hey Tony, you can tune that chimney if it gets too hot with a step drill! Keep the theme going!
Believe it's Kiwi Classics and carpets. He done an excellent job of my carpet and did not charge as I was his 10th new subscriber
Those poly bushings will keep alignment more precise as well i may have com.ented that when you did the OG bushing video. I put them on my upper arms as well. My alignment guy was cringing when i told him i was bringing in a 68 A body thinking he wasn't going to have enough adjustment as usual on old mopar. But after he set it up he said he had plenty to get it right and was impressed by the poly. I will say they are a bit harsher on bumps but def seems to corner better.
My experience with is Napa is that they have everything and you are going to pay dearly for the convenience.
Had a similar experience recently with a heater hose for my S10. It's a molded hose about a foot long, with a 90° bend in it. O'Reilly and Advance both want $30 for a Gates hose, but neither one had any in stock. Same hose on Amazon $16.99 and AC Delco was $14.99. The Delco hose arrived sooner, so I ordered it and ran with the radiator cap loose for a couple days.
👍👍
Racing for food! I'm a Bluegrass musician. I play for food. That's a prize worth the effort. Go,Tony!
Haha the race is on!
I have lately had much better results with females at the parts counter than the old school 'parts man'. I wanted a shorter serpentine belt to bypass a power steering pump on an old pickup. I had the measurement of the belt I needed. I told the partsman the belt I wanted. He had to look up application. The second partsman tried to measure my serpentine belt with a v-belt measuring tool. I said forget it. I went to the other parts store, same brand. Two young women at the counter. I thought "Oh boy". I told them what I wanted, they went and got it. I tried it on my truck, too long. Went back in, I said I needed next one shorter. They got it. That belt worked perfect. Paid for it and said you guys are Awesome! They are my goto 'Partspeople' from now on.
Tenderloin (aka beef backstrap , filet mignon ) usually weighs about 10 pounds or so .
I went to Napa a few weeks ago to get a 5/16 to 3/8 fuel line adapter. Just a male to female fitting.... $20.00, I thanked them for looking for me and left without it. I could not believe what they wanted for a simple fitting.
I’ve been turning wrenches professionally for decades. Yesterday my oldest son called me because he needed a 4pin relay for his cooling fan, they wanted $180 for a freaking relay that is a switch that maybe has 5cents of copper. I have never seen anything like it before.
Can't believe that you're not entering the dart in the Indy 500 now that you have it figured out! By the way I'm hoping to build my 440 with long rams for my dually this winter and plan on using steel brackets bolted to the headers via header bolt with a plate that lets the intake float on it, as not bolted to the bracket, for heat transfer and depending on how it works I also thought of using the shroud technique like you used, in fact that's what I thought you should do when I watch your video when you were discussing the issues you were having with a cold intake. Had a feeling that is what you would as it is the rather obvious and simple solution.
Funny thing is when UTG said he’s going to the video from Dr. Art, it went straight to a Google Chrome commercial. Thankfully the Dr. Art video played after the commercial. Lol
I went to NAPA today and got 6 qts, a filter, and a can-o-carb cleaner: $63.00, and I still have to do the work!!
Why, I remember when you could get a tune-up, oil change and tire rotation for $63.00, while you read the newspaper.
The boot lid area - a prime example (HA - no pun intended) of how some primers allow water to penetrate. All of that grey primer will need to be removed - the rust removed/neutralised - then a good epoxy primer should be applied. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Thanks for weighing in on the lower control arm bushings
Gee Tony, I just replaced the LCA bushings on my coronet with those same ones last month, and now my transmission is puking from the front seal! I'm retroactively blaming you for this one.
I just like looking for all of the lightening holes you have added to your "leaning tower of power race car" and things like your Accel yellow box coil that were common back in the "Good old days"!
Ive got that same trail bike. With a 212cc tilitson, vm22 carb, ported head, cam, billet rod.. running thru a 30 series tq comverter and juggernaut driver stalled up to 4200.. thing rips ass.
Those things are so fun to hot rod, cheap too !!!
Nice heat shield! Rattle rattle?
Nice plug for meat store!
The heat stove looks great!
I have searched the world over trying to find a 3/8 fuel filter with 1/4 return, they are discontinued now. I found one parts store in Indianapolis with a rear main in stock, they had two so I bought both.. That color will look awesome on that car!
Love the mini drums on the rear end............................
I only have 2 parts stores near me I needed 2 48” v belts advanced didn’t have not a v belt in stock went to Napa $60 in belts I about had a stroke
UT, you may want to put the squeeze on that stock mini bike if you want to wax that e-cart. 48 vdc will support a motor with a gob of torque.
Please go with “Phantom Black” - just think about the legacy you could leave behind. Totally awesome build bro!
Not a bad choice….
The Black Fantom that once belonged to the infamous Tony Defeau, let the bids commence.
The ball joints in my Chrysler C body is just fine, not even a few years old. The main problem lies in the durability of the ball joint dust boots that Moog has, tends to rip & shred in about 1 year, considering moving to leather parts like some earlier car parts were made of, example is a Ball & trunnion joint that had a leather dust boot cover, much more durable i'd assume.
Similar story i had a few days back was with some 5/8 return line power steering hose, the counter guy rang me up for $137 USD.
?!?!?!
The guy went to the back of the store and had one of the more knowledgeable gentleman ring me up instead down to $16 USD.
Tony, Totally understand the "adding parts with another wire" sort of thing, I'm currently trying to get my divorced choke to work without needing to retrofit to an electronic choke twist dial style, it just feels more OEM and reliable in a sense, where you don't need to screw with it, set it and forget it.
I put a bit of rubber grease at the contact point to reduce twist on the boot.
I had the same problem with a '57 Desoto. All the moog rubber boots cracked in less than 2 years. Switched to energy suspension poly boots last year. No cracking so far, but time will tell. They have a chart with dimensions, if not listed for your specific vehicle. Mine are the same boots for a H2 Hummer.
That's a clue they use that junk Chinese rubber.
Not sure what the Chinese miss in their rubber formulation but it falls apart within 1-2yrs at the most.
@@MrTheHillfolk Moog quality pretty much sucks nowadays. At the shop we only use it if that is only manufacture available.
@@scrappy7571 yeah I hear ya, they used to be decent....I'm tired of saying that about every older well known brand that's sold it's quality to the lowest bidder
Here in Australia we have NAPA but also an old Australian parts store called Repco that is still reasonably competent. I too give up and go online when the local price is silly.
I'm the guy who suggested copper gasket. It'll work. Brick and Mortar complain about Amazon. They don't watch UT. They don't speak English.
Racing for meat. I love it.
A grudge match of the stomach.
Winner has to eat that whole tenderloin in one sitting.
You guys are awesome doing the whole call out thing like this and in good fun, great stuff
First... I've had to remove several of those fancy noisy bushings that I didn't install. Second. I had the same experience with the (dust boots)grease caps.$$$ Three. Maintaining the temp without going "overheat" might be tricky. I wish you all the luck.(I mean that sincerely) Fourth. The call out race against a battery......(Don Garlits electric dragster) Sofa King funny with the wager. (actual steaks)
Thanks for turning on the cc. It REALLY helps old farts like me. 😊
Don’t go looking for banjo bolts for calipers are whatever cuz nobody has em.. and the reason stuffs so expensive is because people are going online to buy parts!? so the markup is ridiculously high to keep the chain stores doors open!!
So...body work Ron has everything sledgehammered back into place?
Cool.....
Ace has quarts of good black Ace brand satin paint. Low-cost can thin it with all oil base products including gas. Make a wheelie bar with a couple of skateboard Wheels for the little mini bike that's your best bet.The other one is geared to high
The black ghost challenger movie is awesome.that car was really fast.😮
TONYS BUILDING HIS OWN BLACK GHOST CHARGER
Try getting CV joint boots.
My minivan CV joints needed new boots, they were leaking. It was 50 bucks for two boots and 60 bucks for an axle shaft. I bought the shaft. Happy Motoring.
You're lucky, Kiwi didn't raid your trashcan. Then sell you your own control arm bushing sleeves back to you 😆
Those little electric buggers can haul ass. A fair fight would be to race your minibikes on the Pan Americana circuit, one talk full against a battery charge
I put f-ing urethane bushings on the sway bar of my Roadrunner in the late ‘80’s. The freaking thing never stopped squeaking!
I think what’s happened is most everybody has adopted the movie theater pricing. They raise the price of the cheap stuff so the expensive stuff seems like a better deal. Most stuff isn’t worth rebuilding anymore since you’ll have almost as much in parts as just getting a whole new one.
I knew it was NAPA from the comment of the previous video.
Each auto part store has it perks but I think Oreillys is becoming my favorite that "performance" wall has saved my ass a ton.NAPA however has good stock they just charge an arm,your first born and a date with your grandma.
High energy polyurethane bushings once you change them once you'll probably never have to change him again they're great bushings I use them on everything including my semis they have a blue polyurethane too and they're even stiffer than the red ones
Red urethane has a bad rep down under. Most of us hate the stuff, and prefer rubber. Paying about $AU100 for a set of ball joint seals here, but B body lower joints are $AU180 each, or around $AU80 each for local A body.
hands up, who knew what a Luddite was?
I think most of us who follow UT are. 😂
I get called one a lot by people with smartphones and key fobs. :)
I'm a Luddite and damned proud of it!
@@OllamhDrab you should smash those things
One of the hotest mechanic on youtube, This show all of this knowledge and some.
No chance you beat the go cart 😂
You just have to learn the lingo Uncle Tony. Repeat after me...
" Yo necesito uno Dusto Buto, por favor." 😆 😆😆
Tony,
I have a big ass box of NOS caps, rotor, points & condensers, (& plugs: Bosch, NGK, Autolite) for Ford, Mopar & Chev I want to send you.
I partnered in a small parts in the early '80's. I was buying this inventory from a company in Detroit area selling this stuff made by OEM's. High quality, could not tell the difference between dealership parts & these; I compared samples b4 I started using them in our repair shop & selling them, retail.
I got throat cancer in '20, had surgery, relapsed in '21, had rad & chemo.
Now, it's in my liver.
I need to know how to get the stuff to you.
You're the only one who will appreciate it. In my attic, since the biz ended in '84, it needs a home, or it's gonna be trash when I die.
GeoD
Should be fun to see. The electric skateboard or whatever is going to pull out first. You might pass him with those tiny tires he has. But the pocket bike, I don't think has enough track to get up to speed and pass.
Grudge racing between gas mini bike and electric go-kart? That's gonna be fun 😁
I work PT at an auto parts store. The prices have gotten insane and, what gets me, we have to order common parts. You know, the parts that were kept on hand because they sold them frequently. Crying shame.
18 dollar ball joint sounds like sketchy quality Tony your OEM joints are probably much higher quality, keep the videos coming
I replaced lowers on a '74 dart in ' 78. They were $50 a pop. $18 sounds really cheap
Circa 1980 my future Lovely Bride worked at an electronics store. They hired me to help with inventory.
I was staggered to find out that an electronic part that they were selling for about $1.00 cost them about 4 CENTS.
I also had a buddy who had worked for a Suzuki motorcycle dealer in the late 70s.
A Suzuki GT380 motorcycle sold off the floor for about $1900.
His parts manager had a slow time and calculated that if you built the same bike from the spare parts catalogue it would cost you TWENTY ONE THOUSAND DOLLARS!
So, spare parts have always had massive profit margins built in.
cost of a new ball joint $18.99 , cost of the dust cover... Priceless !
Epic race for meat ! - Can hardly wait
Tony, ever try spherical bearings for LCA bushes?
They're a treat for handling feel, not so much road trips, but would be curious your thoughts.
Would work for a while, then wear out, and make the suspension sound like the car is driving with stone tires. Put a moog vertical bushing in that was sort of like a spherical bearing in a car, worked great for about 6 months, then had the customer come back with a front end sounding like you were landing the car like you were Bo Duke. Turns out, that the regular style bushings would have been a better idea. Thought I was doing my customer a favor using the premium bushing. It got a moog replacement, but with the regular style. Look up moog PN K200792 for an example of the bushing installed.
Everyone started going to Autozone and drove the good places right out of business to save $2. Where I grew up we had 2 fabulous Indy Stores in a small 30,000 pop town (and more in all the outlying towns) you could literally have almost any part you needed at a reasonable price within 45mins of home and for ANY car, foreign or domestic, heck they sold tune up parts for domestics at the hardware stores even. Now we are forced to basically go online or pay 4x the price at the chain stores for an inferior part.
Found out I made my lower jeep control arms wrong. It's why I have to tack weld the jam joints. Need a heim joint to go with the bushing. I like the ones with a mounted inner sleeve when it comes to bushings. I used a heim joint on upper wishbone. Why not warm the fuel line? It's how i get the high compression 460 big block to run e85 after it's warm. Going with solar/electric on my 12' v bottom boat. Electric motorcycles make sense accept they don't come with flexible roll up solar panels.
Last time I went to advance auto, I just needed a set of Autolite 3924 sparkplugs. First I'm greeted in the parking lot by an employee taking a smoke break, little dude wants to check out my truck I drove there in, wants to see the engine and all that shit, waste about 3p minutes of my time in the fuckin parking lot, then I finally get inside and it's closing time, so nobody knows shit, can't find the plugs, and I also wanted some cork SBC valvecover gaskets. That was definitely off the menu. Don't know what happened to that place, used to be alright. But like everything else, it's definitely gone to shit. And all the other chain auto part stores ain't much better. I order most my shit online these days and just deal with the wait.
Uncle Tony's version of the Black Ghost.
Yep, dust boots haven't changed since Christ was a cowboy.
Good on you uncle Tony, those bushing kits you’re using there. They are good to work with but I’ve gotta admit I’ve regretted using them many times because the ride on the suspension is just way too hard for me Personally
the original rubber is best I reckon
One thing about polyurethane bushings if there isn't a way to grease them through a grease Fitting they can start to squeak after a Few years If there's no way to put a grease fitting in You can always wrap the metal Sleeve that goes Inside the bushing with a couple wraps of teflon tape and the grease only use marine grease or the stuff that's provided
..todays retail...400% mark up..they gotta have that $15 hour....
I do wanna see that "grudge match"
LOL ADVANCE AUTO. GOOD LUCK!
That 1st gen charger was always a dream car that never had an opportunity to acquire
I understand your pain. I needed three quarts of Dextron VI for my Chevy Traverse. The total almost made me pass out. $35.00. I almost sh*t right there on the floor. On line would have saved about $3.00 per qt. Crazy.
tcp paint is the right place I love their options especially for touch up repair