Very nice and detailed guide! Just a couple of tips on soldering. Apply the iron to the pad/pin and melt the solder with the pad/pin, not the iron. Secondly, hold the iron for one second longer after adding the solder to the joint. This way you avoid cold welds. Cheers
This was so detailed, really nice close shots. Probably the best quality video when it comes to keyboard builds. Would love to see a low profile kyria build video from you! :D
Thank you, I'm always trying to improve the quality of the content and I'm glad that it shows 🙏 I don't know if I'll ever build another Kyria but if I do I promise I'll film it 😉
Have you finished the build yet? Did the RGB work out of the box or did you have to do some specific setup in the firmware? My build works but no lights whatsoever.
Many thanks for your very detailed guide, Kyek! You have been my inspiration to build my first sweep. Now I’m looking to up the challenge to build this swoop! A stupid question please: if I want to add the optional EC11 encoder to the Swoop, do I have to make any changes to the PCB gerber files on the GitHub? Or are the PCB files already designed to be compatible with that? Thanks again.
i got some of these for placing and orienting SMD components while soldering: Hakko CHP 105-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Tweezers for Handling SMD Components and SOT Packages, Curved shaft, 2.5mm Flat Tips, 4-3/4" Length they are tweezers with little extra grabby bits at the end which makes orienting the component easier.
I fount the switch plates on the github repository is no for MX but for choc, do your plates also come from the same github repo you provide in the description?
I have no soldering experience at all so maybe I'm way off base here, but wouldn't it have made more sense to align the reset button without solder, tape one side down, and then solder the other side? Then you just remove the tape and solder that side and it's perfect, right?
Are your plates used in this build just PCBs with a colored silk screen or are you having them fabricated in a different material (acrylic, etc)? Thanks for the vid!
Another nice, helpful video. Where did you get those 2-pin reset buttons? The ones I see have the button on the top, the ones in the video have the button on the side.
I am trying to work out what my typing speed might be on this. What is your qwerty typing speed? What percent faster are you on this keyboard, or is it about the same?
Thanks you for taking the time to reply. (And thanks for making this video!) That is so interesting. I guess I had thought there would be a typing speed improvement for using this keyboard, but in a pure alphabetical test, I guess it makes sense that the difference is not significant.
@@jay.rhoden The benefits are mainly in terms of comfort. Being able to type with the keyboard at shoulder width is much better for your back and the staggered columns make for much more natural and relaxed finger movements
very cute keyboard, I will built it by my self, but I don't know what kind of diodes I should use， sod-123 or sod-323 or others? could you give me some suggestion，thank you.
Video super dettagliato e molto utile! Vorrei costruire la mia prima split e sono molto indeciso tra questo layout e quello della corne/crkbd. Lo stagger della swoop sembra molto più aggressivo.. consigli?
Vai su compare.splitkb.com e seleziona corne e sweep. Poi scarica il PDF e stampalo in scala 1:1 e prova qual è più comodo per te. Personalmente preferisco lo stagger in stile Sweep
I just had this PCB printed, but in black. I can’t figure out how the LEDs are supposed to go. How can I tell where the angled corner is supposed to go if the PCB doesn’t have a line like yours?
@@KyekOfficial Its not there on my print. Thankfully I figured out to look at the images in the gitrepo which show it clearly. I know the lights are delicate. How thick of a solder are you using?
@@KyekOfficial Got it, thanks! If you don’t mind one more question… If I didn’t want to use hot swap sockets would I be able to solder the switches directly to this board without modifying the design?
On the github page of the swoop there are two batteries listed, the 301230 and the 301228. I wanted to use the 501230 but I'm not sure if the battery is compatible with the swoop. What parameters can I look at to know if the battery is compatible?
The choc version was never fully completed. It is possible to make it but you need to be aware that it's still a very experimental project. If you want it come in the discord server and we will help you.
I have but I don't think it's worth the effort. I don't have any problems using qwerty and I don't want to mess up keyboard shortcuts. I will probably still learn colemak dh one day but I don't see it as a priority.
@@KyekOfficial That makes sense. I did build a boardsource microdox and learn colemak dh. It is a lot more comfortable to type on, but I do question if it was "worth it" or not at times. The conclusion I came to after a year of using this as my daily driver is to keep using it but stick to qwerty when away from my desk using a laptop. The physical layout difference seems to be a natural trigger for my brain.
This is Great Key! I was just looking for a sweep mod! I saw on the repo that it is still a WIP... is there anything that is nor working with this board as today? Thanks!
I think the MX version is ready and the low profile version is almost ready. But I will look more into it during this week. I will update the github repository with all the information that you might need. Stay tuned.
Yes it will come back. It was removed because it was a work in progress and the designer didn't want people to get an unfinished product. As soon as it's ready to be ordered it will be uploaded to github.
I am using these, I cut them to the right length: aliexpress.com/item/32719808627.html You can also find them on mkultra, kriscables, keycapsss and many other keyboard stores. You will also need the millmax machined pins that you can buy from those stores or digikey/mouser. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/3320-0-00-15-00-00-03-0/4147392
@@KyekOfficial Thanks for taking the time to reply. I soldered micros the last 3 ferris sweeps I made. Easy .. until I soldered one the wrong side of the board.!😭Complacency
@@KyekOfficial what jlcpcb settings should I use. Should I select two different design. Also for the plate and case if I want them to be aluminium what should I do. Or just for the plate and case what settings do I use. Any link would be very appreciated
@@randomstatements8034 Do you have discord? It would be easier to help you through live chat. You can find me in the Absolem server (link in Swoop github) or in the Low Profile KB server (link in Sweep github). Tag me @Kyek
@@KyekOfficial ah thank you. I actually already exported them via kicad and ordered some ... i hope i did it correctly. If not i‘ll check out your files!
Yeah, your directions about which side to solder the jumpers on is incoherent. Just say "solder the jumpers on the same side that the control chip (pro-micro or nice!nano) is placed." Simple. And the side where the chip is placed and where the switches are place, is "UP" because that's where your fingers go.
@@KyekOfficial Actually, I'm building a SWEEP MX and to my chagrin this video led me astray and I ruined two boards putting the stupid jumpers on the WRONG SIDE. Anyone building a SWEEP going by this video... IT'S NOT THE SAME BOARD, OR EVEN SIMILAR. DON'T DO WHAT THIS GUY DOES.
@@Demosophist if you socketed your microcontroller, you can probably salvage the boards pretty easily with a solder wick, if you didn't... well, that's though. You can still try to salvage it, but without a desoldering tool, it won't be that easy. 😅
![How to make a SWEEP KEYBOARD [ beginner friendly! ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fBPu7AyDtkM/mqdefault.jpg)
Very nice and detailed guide! Just a couple of tips on soldering. Apply the iron to the pad/pin and melt the solder with the pad/pin, not the iron. Secondly, hold the iron for one second longer after adding the solder to the joint. This way you avoid cold welds. Cheers
This was so detailed, really nice close shots. Probably the best quality video when it comes to keyboard builds. Would love to see a low profile kyria build video from you! :D
Thank you, I'm always trying to improve the quality of the content and I'm glad that it shows 🙏
I don't know if I'll ever build another Kyria but if I do I promise I'll film it 😉
Fantastica guida per questo tipo di tastiera! Presto farò la mia prima build e sarà molto d'aiuto :)
Grazie mille, se hai bisogno non esitare a chiedere
nice design 👍
I ordered the parts to build one myself thanks to your video.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with the build! 🍀
I am building the sweep right now, great to see more uploads from you!
the sweep not the swoop for all of you people making sure
Thank you, I'll try to keep 'em coming!
Have you finished the build yet? Did the RGB work out of the box or did you have to do some specific setup in the firmware? My build works but no lights whatsoever.
@@MarekVsechovsky you mean the RGB on the micro controllers?
Hello, Thank you for making this. Patiently waiting for your Gerber files.
Yeah, the designer recommended me to remove them because they were not updated to the latest changes. I am waiting too for the new gerbers.
The gerber files are now available, link is in the description. If you need help you can find me in the linked discord. Good luck!
@@KyekOfficial the link died. Is there new version?
@@MasqueArt Could you try again now? Thanks for warning me
Many thanks for your very detailed guide, Kyek!
You have been my inspiration to build my first sweep. Now I’m looking to up the challenge to build this swoop!
A stupid question please: if I want to add the optional EC11 encoder to the Swoop, do I have to make any changes to the PCB gerber files on the GitHub? Or are the PCB files already designed to be compatible with that?
Thanks again.
Thanks! The PCB is ready to accept the encoder
Thank you!
i got some of these for placing and orienting SMD components while soldering:
Hakko CHP 105-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Tweezers for Handling SMD Components and SOT Packages, Curved shaft, 2.5mm Flat Tips, 4-3/4" Length
they are tweezers with little extra grabby bits at the end which makes orienting the component easier.
Ohh, cool! Thank you for the advice, these might come in handy
@@KyekOfficial awesome! thanks for showing the process and posting the code and kicad!
I fount the switch plates on the github repository is no for MX but for choc, do your plates also come from the same github repo you provide in the description?
Very educational! ... Where would the kailh choc version be?
I have no soldering experience at all so maybe I'm way off base here, but wouldn't it have made more sense to align the reset button without solder, tape one side down, and then solder the other side? Then you just remove the tape and solder that side and it's perfect, right?
Yeah you could probably do that too
Installing the reset button was so stressful lol. Ive only done an ErgoTravel, but that was one of the tougher parts
Are your plates used in this build just PCBs with a colored silk screen or are you having them fabricated in a different material (acrylic, etc)? Thanks for the vid!
They are PCBs without any traces on them. The technical term is FR4 material.
hi, thanks for the great video.
Could you please tell what kind of spacers are those? What’s the height, and can they be used on Sweep Bling MX?
where did you print the front and back plate from?
Another nice, helpful video. Where did you get those 2-pin reset buttons? The ones I see have the button on the top, the ones in the video have the button on the side.
I think they were sold to me with the PCB kit by the designer. But don't worry, the one with the button on top also works fine.
Is there any version of south facing ? Thankyou
I am trying to work out what my typing speed might be on this. What is your qwerty typing speed? What percent faster are you on this keyboard, or is it about the same?
On typing tests I type at about 110-120 wpm on any keyboard
Thanks you for taking the time to reply. (And thanks for making this video!) That is so interesting. I guess I had thought there would be a typing speed improvement for using this keyboard, but in a pure alphabetical test, I guess it makes sense that the difference is not significant.
@@jay.rhoden The benefits are mainly in terms of comfort. Being able to type with the keyboard at shoulder width is much better for your back and the staggered columns make for much more natural and relaxed finger movements
hey, man.. did you check the flux thing? you have to try it)
Where do you get the Mill-Max pins, and what's the part number? Mill-Max makes a lot of receptacles.
Pins part number is: 3320-0-00-15-00-00-03-0
They are available from many sites like: splitkb, keycapsss, kriscables
thx for the video :)
very cute keyboard, I will built it by my self, but I don't know what kind of diodes I should use， sod-123 or sod-323 or others? could you give me some suggestion，thank you.
Sod 123
it works , thank you.@@KyekOfficial
Video super dettagliato e molto utile!
Vorrei costruire la mia prima split e sono molto indeciso tra questo layout e quello della corne/crkbd. Lo stagger della swoop sembra molto più aggressivo.. consigli?
Vai su compare.splitkb.com e seleziona corne e sweep. Poi scarica il PDF e stampalo in scala 1:1 e prova qual è più comodo per te. Personalmente preferisco lo stagger in stile Sweep
@@KyekOfficial grazie!
I just had this PCB printed, but in black. I can’t figure out how the LEDs are supposed to go. How can I tell where the angled corner is supposed to go if the PCB doesn’t have a line like yours?
You should still see the marking, it's not very visible but on your board it should be printed in white
@@KyekOfficial Its not there on my print. Thankfully I figured out to look at the images in the gitrepo which show it clearly. I know the lights are delicate. How thick of a solder are you using?
@@dgvigil 0.5mm
Noob question, why are the diodes needed? I’m debating putting this or the Sweep together and it seems the Sweep does not require diodes.
Yes the sweep does not have diodes. Here they are needed because this keyboard has more keys.
@@KyekOfficial Got it, thanks! If you don’t mind one more question… If I didn’t want to use hot swap sockets would I be able to solder the switches directly to this board without modifying the design?
@@CharlesHamptonIndi no it's not possible. The PCB is made for hotswap only. But the sockets are pretty cheap!
@@KyekOfficial thanks again!
On the github page of the swoop there are two batteries listed, the 301230 and the 301228. I wanted to use the 501230 but I'm not sure if the battery is compatible with the swoop. What parameters can I look at to know if the battery is compatible?
dude i'm so tempted to build one of these, mind if I ask how long the nice!nano battery hold up for a split build like this?
Without RGB / Screens, with a 110mAh battery, the main side lasts about a week and a half and the peripheral lasts for more than a month.
zmk.dev/power-profiler
@@KyekOfficial oh nice, that's plenty of battery life for me!
GOOD.
Where can I find the Swoop Choc version?
Thank you for the video
The choc version was never fully completed. It is possible to make it but you need to be aware that it's still a very experimental project. If you want it come in the discord server and we will help you.
Have you ever considered using a non-qwerty layout? I'm curious why or why not if you don't mind sharing.
I have but I don't think it's worth the effort. I don't have any problems using qwerty and I don't want to mess up keyboard shortcuts.
I will probably still learn colemak dh one day but I don't see it as a priority.
@@KyekOfficial That makes sense. I did build a boardsource microdox and learn colemak dh. It is a lot more comfortable to type on, but I do question if it was "worth it" or not at times. The conclusion I came to after a year of using this as my daily driver is to keep using it but stick to qwerty when away from my desk using a laptop. The physical layout difference seems to be a natural trigger for my brain.
Nice Bruh 😁
This is Great Key! I was just looking for a sweep mod! I saw on the repo that it is still a WIP... is there anything that is nor working with this board as today? Thanks!
I think the MX version is ready and the low profile version is almost ready. But I will look more into it during this week. I will update the github repository with all the information that you might need. Stay tuned.
@@KyekOfficial sounds good. Amazing job!!
@@KyekOfficial Sorry, which repo is **the** repo?
Hey Kyek, looks like the Swoop Choc version was removed, any idea if it'll come back? Thanks for all the videos!
Yes it will come back. It was removed because it was a work in progress and the designer didn't want people to get an unfinished product.
As soon as it's ready to be ordered it will be uploaded to github.
@@KyekOfficial ok thanks so much! I'll be waiting for that one :)
@@ekim96 Me too 😉
@@KyekOfficial Super exciting to hear this; I'm very interested in trying to build a choc version in the future.
What headers are you using to be able to swap controllers?
I am using these, I cut them to the right length: aliexpress.com/item/32719808627.html
You can also find them on mkultra, kriscables, keycapsss and many other keyboard stores.
You will also need the millmax machined pins that you can buy from those stores or digikey/mouser. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/3320-0-00-15-00-00-03-0/4147392
How to configure the firmware for the LED on QMK?
If you need help with the firmware it's best if you join the discord, it would be a bit complicated to explain here on UA-cam
whats the iron that you are using
TS100
what size mill max pins are required
I use these splitkb.com/products/mill-max-low-profile-sockets?variant=31945995845709.
They are 0.51mm in diameter.
@@KyekOfficial Thanks for taking the time to reply. I soldered micros the last 3 ferris sweeps I made. Easy .. until I soldered one the wrong side of the board.!😭Complacency
@@winstonsmith1585 I'm sad to hear that! I hope you'll be able to fix it. If you need any help you can find me in discord too.
@@KyekOfficial Thanks for the offer. I've got 3 complete keyboards, so it's not an issue. My inability to type is the main thing. !!
What is the size of the spacer?
7mm for the case and 8mm for the micro controller cover
@@KyekOfficial Thank you! Kust jot the PCBs and now waiting for the components to arrive
Where did you get the case and plate
Jimmerricks (the designer) sold them to me with the PCB. I will ask him to add them to the repository.
Edit: you can find all the gerbers here
@@KyekOfficial thanks. What can I use to view the files
@@randomstatements8034 try the online Gerber viewer by pcbway
@@KyekOfficial what jlcpcb settings should I use. Should I select two different design. Also for the plate and case if I want them to be aluminium what should I do. Or just for the plate and case what settings do I use. Any link would be very appreciated
@@randomstatements8034 Do you have discord? It would be easier to help you through live chat. You can find me in the Absolem server (link in Swoop github) or in the Low Profile KB server (link in Sweep github). Tag me @Kyek
Does this work with qmk?
All keyboards made with a pro-micro / elite-c or similar work with QMK. The main exception is the nice!nano which uses ZMK. So the answer is yes.
@@KyekOfficial thanks for a quick reply. Going to try this one out asap!
@@summerWTFE No problem, come in discord if you need help. I'll try to upload the gerber files during this weekend.
The gerber files are now available, link is in the description. Good luck and have fun!
@@KyekOfficial ah thank you. I actually already exported them via kicad and ordered some ... i hope i did it correctly. If not i‘ll check out your files!
Yeah, your directions about which side to solder the jumpers on is incoherent. Just say "solder the jumpers on the same side that the control chip (pro-micro or nice!nano) is placed." Simple. And the side where the chip is placed and where the switches are place, is "UP" because that's where your fingers go.
Thanks for the feedback
@@KyekOfficial Actually, I'm building a SWEEP MX and to my chagrin this video led me astray and I ruined two boards putting the stupid jumpers on the WRONG SIDE. Anyone building a SWEEP going by this video... IT'S NOT THE SAME BOARD, OR EVEN SIMILAR. DON'T DO WHAT THIS GUY DOES.
I mean, do what he does if you're building a SWOOP but the SWEEP Bling MX is a different board.
@@Demosophist if you socketed your microcontroller, you can probably salvage the boards pretty easily with a solder wick, if you didn't... well, that's though. You can still try to salvage it, but without a desoldering tool, it won't be that easy. 😅