What a great video, and a thorough and professional brake job! This lady knows her stuff! Anyone giving this a thumbs down, must just be leading a sad and lonely life! Thank You!
Money was tight and my rear brake was grinding out the rotor. I used this video to attempt the job on my own to save some money and it was spot on. The video was very descriptive and informative. It was exactly what I needed to get the job done right the first time. Thank you for this.
This is how you do a thorough brake service job DIY style only. Repair shops and dealers will not do this type service because of the time and charge you big bucks anyway. I learned this many many years back, and believe me this will take approx. four hours of your time to do all four wheels but worth it. Very important to clean and lubricate the slide pins so the pads retract after letting off the brake pedal. Else they will bind in its position and cause premature pad failure and warp the rotor from friction heat. Great video and great camera clarity.
+roadrunner Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Cesar Tan Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Vincent Liang Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Gidday from New Zealand. Thanks for this most informative video. I’ve just put new rear pads in my ‘04 Accord. It failed a WOF on brake imbalance. When I pulled the old pads out, one inner pad was worn very unevenly. I knew the caliper piston had to be spun to retract it but didn’t know about the North/South thing when I put the new pads in. After a drive, one disc was hot and the other was much cooler. I suspect the pin isn’t and wasn’t in the groove that you explained. I’ll have a look in the morning. Thanks again for an excellently video.
@@1AAuto So, my son and I tried doing this on his car last night and we can't get the lower caliper bracket bolt to break free. I've soaked it with PB Blaster, tried a breaker bar, and all that ended up happening is the bolt started to "round" a little. What's my next best option? Heat it with a torch and then try? An Impact wrench? Just wanted to know your thoughts...
Super straightforward, thorough, good information and helpful tips. Definitely saving this to my favorites when I finally get around to working on my brakes here soon. Great job! 👍
Awesome detailed work! Sad that no mechanic will go this far in servicing your vehicle. They just want u to keep buying new parts to replace the current parts that still have life in them.
Best brake and rotor change I've seen done to a car..I've had my brake changed many times its too bad here in NYC this is not done...everyone here cuts corners when they aren't watched...this is 💯how it should be done .thanks
--- HONDA SCREWS in the rotors: Everybody uses #3 because of the size of the head on those little Honda screws, but the actual bore is a #2. It's not intuitive but you get more metal to metal with an impact #2 that won't strip the head. I finally got a Japanese standard impact #2 because it's the same size as their trim screws so I'll be using it everywhere anyway even without the impact feature. And yes you do need to put those little screws back in because while they don't really hold the rotor on, they DO keep a side to side/rotational shimmy from happening around the studs which is most noticeable on highway speeds 70-80 mph. Honda's have a tight front end steering because of those tiny screws ... You can feel the slight shimmy through the steering wheel at high speeds without them. But many garages leave those little screws out because they think they're vestigial. They aren't. The empty holes rust when they're gone too, so there's that. Those little screws are like 10ea for $8 retail on AMZ, so replace them with a little anti-seize just under the head for water resistance with an invisible smear of silicone on the head to retard rust, and you're golden. That screw will look brand new every time and there'd be no struggling next time with an impact wrench. Your #2 should do the trick and even moreso a Japanese standard #2. To see what I mean about shimmy look at 2:44 and the mm space between stud and rotor. No matter how tight you screw that lug in place, that space will cause shimmy. Those tiny screws put a stop to that. ----BLEEDER SCREWS I like that you left the closed socket on the bleeder screw and how it controls drip direction - nice! - and opening the bleeder valve (which many don't do) doesn't put pressure on the old brake fluid back into the ABS or the system anywhere else. I'm going to do that from now on, I think. It seems like it would make pushing that piston back easier too since there'd be less back pressure resistance many other mechanics complain about. ----ASIAN CAR REAR BRAKE WEAR Rear brakes wear out fastest on Hondas and other Asian models with cross hair calipers like this, and I've always wondered if that's BECAUSE of that cross hair groove in the piston. It's true if shoes aren't lined up with the piston, the pads balance on the notch in the brake pads and never really sit level, so they wobble. But, it also seems true to me that that raised area on the pad (I'll call it a knob for simplicity) inside that cross hair groove means the inside pad drags with the piston as it rotates out to take up wear slack. This wouldn't be a problem with a new brake job, but only as the pads become older and less than 1/2 wear. It wouldn't be noticeable on new pads because there'd still be wriggle room around that knob inside the cross hair groove, but as the pad gets thinner, the piston rotates further off 12&6 o'clock to take up the pad slack, and drags that knob in the shoe with it so the top end of that shoe winds up nose-ing into the rotor on the backside. That would certainly wear inside back brakes out faster and more unevenly than the outside pad. It would also wear out faster than the front brakes by almost TWICE as fast. Braking SHOULD wear pads pretty evenly all around, with slightly more thinning in FRONT, not the back! On the isolated rear brake assembly, uneven wear moving around with these crosshair pistons would happen on the inside shoe more than the outside because the outside pad is pressured EVENLY without the piston crosshair groove. I'm sure this resulted in MANY MANY more frequent rear brake changes on Hondas and Asian vehicles - haplessly for the customer, changes on BOTH sides now - and result in rotor/caliper failures misdiagnosed because of uneven pad wear. OK, so what if it's just that knob doing the damage, from inside the piston groove when it exhausts its groove wriggle room, and starts pad drag with the piston to gouge or shave the rotor on that end! It would also result in thin wear NOT detected by the shim alarm installed on the bottom of the shoe, because that bottom shoe end would not experience thinning until the top was already past the warning 10% stage seen on the bottom of the same shoe. Think about it. If the rear cross haired brake piston came out straight instead of rotating, this knob in the piston groove wouldn't be a problem, but we know the piston DOES rotate because we have to push it back in AND rotate it back to 12&6 o'clock again with each brake job. I know it hasn't been done on my 2006 Honda Accord EXL when taken to any garage, but I will file down that knob now that I'm doing my own brakes in the driveway just to see if I get better longevity and more even wear of my rear brakes .... after having to replace them EVERY THREE YEARS even with my conservative driving and braking! AND had caliper failure misdiagnosed! (examining the old part shows the caliper was fine). If you see a flaw in that plan, I'm open to suggestions. ---SUGGESTION for future videos E brakes: We do however, need a video on adjusting that E brake since all that wear and tear of frequent pad changes, not to mention rusting and seizing with disuse in automatics, tends to change the efficiency of the hand brake over time - a real emergency hazard. There are precious few CLEARLY ILLUMINATED and IN FOCUS videos addressing this, particularly on Hondas/Asian vehicles with their cross hair pistons and pad failures in the back. Most how to e-brake videos are dark, blurry, fire-hose-jerky camera work, and the mechanic's hand or tool is in the way. Schematics: You know what would be handy in your videos too? A schematic of the part within its location in a graphic (clean and ideal) at the very beginning for orientation, before jumping into the "How To" on real world rusted parts which - to the novice - all look the same buried in rust camouflage. I was always afraid I would loosen the wrong bolt to something else getting lost on the backside of a wheel and have a bigger mess than the actual job. A diagram right at the start would help orient your novice viewers and be something to review, or snapshot, for future reference if needed. ---WARNING SHIM placement I know they say to put the warning shim on the bottom inner position, but one mechanic rightly said - given EVEN pad wear - the opposite configuration of warning shim on top results in squealing noticed mostly in REVERSE, and when the warning shim is on top, it gives you plenty of time (10% pad remaining) to either get parts or schedule a garage appointment. The upside of that configuration is you only squeal on reverse, but not through the neighborhood at 2AM when you still have 10% pad left and it's not an emergency. There's no reason your neighbors need to know how thick your brake pads are, nor should you need to travel the 'drive of shame' through public for no good reason. Rotor squeal while in REVERSE ONLY should be plenty of notice for a heads up, and just might save those rotors from shim gouge leading to rotor replacement along with the new shoes. ---PET PEEVE with garage repairs. Garages are famous for peeling and tossing 'vestigial' parts they think serve no purpose but to make their lives miserable: 1. Tearing off loose heat shield over exhaust under driver seat. When the floor got so hot I couldn't put my feet on the floor I asked them to put the car back on the rack and we looked. The mechanic said he tore that old rusted and loose metal off because it was flapping and making noise, and 'really didn't do anything anyway'. I made him find it and tack it back on (it was in the dumpster). Floor bake solved and I never took my car there again. 2. Not cleaning up rusted brake dust shields, or worse, tearing them off without replacement. It left my engine compartment full of brake dust which is pure grit. (in the old days it was pure asbestos grit) 3. Not reinstalling those tiny Asian car rotor screws resulting in high speed handling problems and early front end repairs. 4. Not bothering with copper anti-seize on anything. When I come back for maintenance work, don't they want an easier job of it? Copper is heat resistant, rust resistant and doesn't 'heat glue' parts under brake temperatures. 5. Using GREASE instead of silicone on caliper slide pins. Petrified grease is one reason FORD EXPLORER hubs won't come off. They're GLUED by hardened grease now chemically bonded to metal by heat.
Thanks for the detailed video. One thing that wasn't emphasized (at least for me) is that screwdriver used to remove the bolts holding the rotor to the hub should meet JIS requirements, if I'm not mistaken.
Hi. You lost a bit of brake fluid. Do you just top off the master cylinder to the “max” line with some NEW brake fluid? Or is a complete flush required after completion? Thank you.
Siphon out some brake oil from reservoir using turkey baster and leave reservoir cap loose while pushing piston in. It's cleaner and less chance of leaving air trap inside the line.
Hey Ali, i ALWAYS Just open the top of the Master Cylinder and do the whole Turkey baster thing if necessary.. I Hate bleeding brakes!! Just curious, did you open the bleeder screw or just went with opening the top of the brake fluid reservoir?? Please get back to me ASAP!! I'D GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. THANKS!!
How long do pads usually last? I got new Pads and Rotors from Brakes Plus and the front pads only lasted about 32,000 and the rear rotors had no anti-rust so they rusted like the next day. Do they always use the cheapest pads unless you specify otherwise? Shouldn’t pads last close to 50,000? I learned the hard way and am doing the brakes myself from now on.
+steeler1983 Thanks for watching! Brake longevity can vary widely based on usage. If you drive a lot of highway then you will get many more miles than city driving. Bare metal rotors will rust pretty much immediately when exposed to the elements, but it is just surface rust that will not affect performance. Consider getting rotors with coated hats to prevent this from happening.
Me gustaría saber cómo puedo conseguir el screwdriver para remover los tornillos del rotor ya que son muy complicados de sacarlos sin que se barran los tornillos,
+Patrick Cruser We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. You may need to apply some brake quiet to it to avoid the noises. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Drew Tube Thanks for checking us out. Yes, the install should be the same or similar. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
+Drew Tube We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Is it necessary to change the brake fluid out when doing this if the fluid looks degraded, having a slight brown hint in appearance? If so, an instructional video on how to do that along with a brake change procedure would be helpful.
+Reggy Baxter Thank you for your checking us out! It would not be necessary to change out your brake fluid. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
Hi this lady did a great job and everything went fine.please don't complicate matters by suggesting fluid change not as easy as you think and I wish to tell readers to ignore it.
She is referring to the screwdriver being used as a "pneumatic" screwdriver. It is not! A pneumatic tool is compressed air driven. The impact screwdriver she is using is not compressed air driven. It is manual and it is actually called an "impact" screwdriver. Nothing "pneumatic" about it.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Sue should start her own repair channel, that was relaxing to listen to and perfect diy wrenching advice. Great repair videos, thank you.
What a great video, and a thorough and professional brake job! This lady knows her stuff! Anyone giving this a thumbs down, must just be leading a sad and lonely life! Thank You!
+George DaVall Thanks for checking us out!
Money was tight and my rear brake was grinding out the rotor. I used this video to attempt the job on my own to save some money and it was spot on. The video was very descriptive and informative. It was exactly what I needed to get the job done right the first time. Thank you for this.
I know one thing. There is not a dealership or mechanic shop that would clean everything up as good as you do. Excellent job.
best change brake video ever. very professional. thanks. the video shooter is very good also!
Great job especially about the pin notch on the pad that fits into the groove on the piston.
This is how you do a thorough brake service job DIY style only. Repair shops and dealers will not do this type service because of the time and charge you big bucks anyway. I learned this many many years back, and believe me this will take approx. four hours of your time to do all four wheels but worth it. Very important to clean and lubricate the slide pins so the pads retract after letting off the brake pedal. Else they will bind in its position and cause premature pad failure and warp the rotor from friction heat. Great video and great camera clarity.
+roadrunner Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
pretty much a real quality job. I paint and take my time. about 6 hours for me with a snack in between.
prob one of the most thorough tutorials I have ever seen on anything ! thx .
Thank you for the tutorial, I learned a lot. I just finished doing my rear brakes on my 2004 Accord.
+Cesar Tan Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Lady, you are a great mechanic/tech!
thank you, was able to save $600. Was having a lot of trouble removing the 12 14 screws and switched from 12 point to 6 which made it a lot easier.
+Vincent Liang Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Gidday from New Zealand. Thanks for this most informative video. I’ve just put new rear pads in my ‘04 Accord. It failed a WOF on brake imbalance. When I pulled the old pads out, one inner pad was worn very unevenly. I knew the caliper piston had to be spun to retract it but didn’t know about the North/South thing when I put the new pads in. After a drive, one disc was hot and the other was much cooler. I suspect the pin isn’t and wasn’t in the groove that you explained.
I’ll have a look in the morning. Thanks again for an excellently video.
+larrylewislarry Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Awesome job on the video. Thanks for taking the time to do this and show us how to get it done right!
+Jason Mohlman Thanks for the great feedback!
@@1AAuto So, my son and I tried doing this on his car last night and we can't get the lower caliper bracket bolt to break free. I've soaked it with PB Blaster, tried a breaker bar, and all that ended up happening is the bolt started to "round" a little. What's my next best option? Heat it with a torch and then try? An Impact wrench? Just wanted to know your thoughts...
@@jmax5105 so were you able to fix it at all??
Such an informative video thanks. If I lived in the USA, I would certainly purchase my car parts from you guys.
Super straightforward, thorough, good information and helpful tips. Definitely saving this to my favorites when I finally get around to working on my brakes here soon. Great job! 👍
Excellent ! Only 1 thing, clean the rotor with brake cleaner front and back. That's it !
Love love love your work! So precise, clear, and well-filmed. Many thanks!!
Thanks for the great video! And thanks for all of the tips you gave, I found them very helpful!
Excellent teaching, Thank you so much!!!
Thank you Sue great details you’re a good teacher
Nice professional job.
Awesome detailed work! Sad that no mechanic will go this far in servicing your vehicle. They just want u to keep buying new parts to replace the current parts that still have life in them.
Best video very detail &professional 👌
Best brake and rotor change I've seen done to a car..I've had my brake changed many times its too bad here in NYC this is not done...everyone here cuts corners when they aren't watched...this is 💯how it should be done .thanks
+oochie wally Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Nice clean job
Thorough demonstration
Merci beaucoup et très bien expliqué 😊
Really helpful, thanks so much!
awesome video. Thanks for all the details.
Great video. Can rhis job be done without the special fancy tool for the piston?
--- HONDA SCREWS in the rotors:
Everybody uses #3 because of the size of the head on those little Honda screws, but the actual bore is a #2. It's not intuitive but you get more metal to metal with an impact #2 that won't strip the head. I finally got a Japanese standard impact #2 because it's the same size as their trim screws so I'll be using it everywhere anyway even without the impact feature.
And yes you do need to put those little screws back in because while they don't really hold the rotor on, they DO keep a side to side/rotational shimmy from happening around the studs which is most noticeable on highway speeds 70-80 mph. Honda's have a tight front end steering because of those tiny screws ... You can feel the slight shimmy through the steering wheel at high speeds without them. But many garages leave those little screws out because they think they're vestigial. They aren't. The empty holes rust when they're gone too, so there's that.
Those little screws are like 10ea for $8 retail on AMZ, so replace them with a little anti-seize just under the head for water resistance with an invisible smear of silicone on the head to retard rust, and you're golden. That screw will look brand new every time and there'd be no struggling next time with an impact wrench. Your #2 should do the trick and even moreso a Japanese standard #2.
To see what I mean about shimmy look at 2:44 and the mm space between stud and rotor. No matter how tight you screw that lug in place, that space will cause shimmy. Those tiny screws put a stop to that.
----BLEEDER SCREWS
I like that you left the closed socket on the bleeder screw and how it controls drip direction - nice! - and opening the bleeder valve (which many don't do) doesn't put pressure on the old brake fluid back into the ABS or the system anywhere else. I'm going to do that from now on, I think. It seems like it would make pushing that piston back easier too since there'd be less back pressure resistance many other mechanics complain about.
----ASIAN CAR REAR BRAKE WEAR
Rear brakes wear out fastest on Hondas and other Asian models with cross hair calipers like this, and I've always wondered if that's BECAUSE of that cross hair groove in the piston. It's true if shoes aren't lined up with the piston, the pads balance on the notch in the brake pads and never really sit level, so they wobble.
But, it also seems true to me that that raised area on the pad (I'll call it a knob for simplicity) inside that cross hair groove means the inside pad drags with the piston as it rotates out to take up wear slack. This wouldn't be a problem with a new brake job, but only as the pads become older and less than 1/2 wear. It wouldn't be noticeable on new pads because there'd still be wriggle room around that knob inside the cross hair groove, but as the pad gets thinner, the piston rotates further off 12&6 o'clock to take up the pad slack, and drags that knob in the shoe with it so the top end of that shoe winds up nose-ing into the rotor on the backside. That would certainly wear inside back brakes out faster and more unevenly than the outside pad. It would also wear out faster than the front brakes by almost TWICE as fast. Braking SHOULD wear pads pretty evenly all around, with slightly more thinning in FRONT, not the back! On the isolated rear brake assembly, uneven wear moving around with these crosshair pistons would happen on the inside shoe more than the outside because the outside pad is pressured EVENLY without the piston crosshair groove. I'm sure this resulted in MANY MANY more frequent rear brake changes on Hondas and Asian vehicles - haplessly for the customer, changes on BOTH sides now - and result in rotor/caliper failures misdiagnosed because of uneven pad wear.
OK, so what if it's just that knob doing the damage, from inside the piston groove when it exhausts its groove wriggle room, and starts pad drag with the piston to gouge or shave the rotor on that end! It would also result in thin wear NOT detected by the shim alarm installed on the bottom of the shoe, because that bottom shoe end would not experience thinning until the top was already past the warning 10% stage seen on the bottom of the same shoe.
Think about it. If the rear cross haired brake piston came out straight instead of rotating, this knob in the piston groove wouldn't be a problem, but we know the piston DOES rotate because we have to push it back in AND rotate it back to 12&6 o'clock again with each brake job. I know it hasn't been done on my 2006 Honda Accord EXL when taken to any garage, but I will file down that knob now that I'm doing my own brakes in the driveway just to see if I get better longevity and more even wear of my rear brakes .... after having to replace them EVERY THREE YEARS even with my conservative driving and braking! AND had caliper failure misdiagnosed! (examining the old part shows the caliper was fine). If you see a flaw in that plan, I'm open to suggestions.
---SUGGESTION for future videos
E brakes:
We do however, need a video on adjusting that E brake since all that wear and tear of frequent pad changes, not to mention rusting and seizing with disuse in automatics, tends to change the efficiency of the hand brake over time - a real emergency hazard. There are precious few CLEARLY ILLUMINATED and IN FOCUS videos addressing this, particularly on Hondas/Asian vehicles with their cross hair pistons and pad failures in the back. Most how to e-brake videos are dark, blurry, fire-hose-jerky camera work, and the mechanic's hand or tool is in the way.
Schematics:
You know what would be handy in your videos too? A schematic of the part within its location in a graphic (clean and ideal) at the very beginning for orientation, before jumping into the "How To" on real world rusted parts which - to the novice - all look the same buried in rust camouflage. I was always afraid I would loosen the wrong bolt to something else getting lost on the backside of a wheel and have a bigger mess than the actual job.
A diagram right at the start would help orient your novice viewers and be something to review, or snapshot, for future reference if needed.
---WARNING SHIM placement
I know they say to put the warning shim on the bottom inner position, but one mechanic rightly said - given EVEN pad wear - the opposite configuration of warning shim on top results in squealing noticed mostly in REVERSE, and when the warning shim is on top, it gives you plenty of time (10% pad remaining) to either get parts or schedule a garage appointment. The upside of that configuration is you only squeal on reverse, but not through the neighborhood at 2AM when you still have 10% pad left and it's not an emergency. There's no reason your neighbors need to know how thick your brake pads are, nor should you need to travel the 'drive of shame' through public for no good reason. Rotor squeal while in REVERSE ONLY should be plenty of notice for a heads up, and just might save those rotors from shim gouge leading to rotor replacement along with the new shoes.
---PET PEEVE with garage repairs.
Garages are famous for peeling and tossing 'vestigial' parts they think serve no purpose but to make their lives miserable:
1. Tearing off loose heat shield over exhaust under driver seat. When the floor got so hot I couldn't put my feet on the floor I asked them to put the car back on the rack and we looked. The mechanic said he tore that old rusted and loose metal off because it was flapping and making noise, and 'really didn't do anything anyway'. I made him find it and tack it back on (it was in the dumpster). Floor bake solved and I never took my car there again.
2. Not cleaning up rusted brake dust shields, or worse, tearing them off without replacement. It left my engine compartment full of brake dust which is pure grit. (in the old days it was pure asbestos grit)
3. Not reinstalling those tiny Asian car rotor screws resulting in high speed handling problems and early front end repairs.
4. Not bothering with copper anti-seize on anything. When I come back for maintenance work, don't they want an easier job of it? Copper is heat resistant, rust resistant and doesn't 'heat glue' parts under brake temperatures.
5. Using GREASE instead of silicone on caliper slide pins. Petrified grease is one reason FORD EXPLORER hubs won't come off. They're GLUED by hardened grease now chemically bonded to metal by heat.
An excellent reply to an excellent video. Thanks!
Good explanation, thank you.
+TJ L. Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Thank you so much, lady!
Hey Sue!
Thanks for the detailed video. One thing that wasn't emphasized (at least for me) is that screwdriver used to remove the bolts holding the rotor to the hub should meet JIS requirements, if I'm not mistaken.
+comsunjava Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Excellent video. Very precise!
+John Nelson Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video, thx
Hi. You lost a bit of brake fluid. Do you just top off the master cylinder to the “max” line with some NEW brake fluid? Or is a complete flush required after completion? Thank you.
Hi. If the boot is twisted and fluid leaks out, what does that mean? Caliper still good, Can still use? What’s the remedy? Thank you.
Absolutely awesome video, thank you very much =)
+mushable13 Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Siphon out some brake oil from reservoir using turkey baster and leave reservoir cap loose while pushing piston in. It's cleaner and less chance of leaving air trap inside the line.
+Pirouz Farhani Thanks for the tips and for watching!
Hey Ali, i ALWAYS Just open the top of the Master Cylinder and do the whole Turkey baster thing if necessary.. I Hate bleeding brakes!! Just curious, did you open the bleeder screw or just went with opening the top of the brake fluid reservoir?? Please get back to me ASAP!! I'D GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. THANKS!!
What type of rear pads do I get for my 2003 accord
How long do pads usually last? I got new Pads and Rotors from Brakes Plus and the front pads only lasted about 32,000 and the rear rotors had no anti-rust so they rusted like the next day. Do they always use the cheapest pads unless you specify otherwise? Shouldn’t pads last close to 50,000? I learned the hard way and am doing the brakes myself from now on.
+steeler1983 Thanks for watching! Brake longevity can vary widely based on usage. If you drive a lot of highway then you will get many more miles than city driving. Bare metal rotors will rust pretty much immediately when exposed to the elements, but it is just surface rust that will not affect performance. Consider getting rotors with coated hats to prevent this from happening.
Should anti seize be used on the rotor screws?
Yes
Never, they will loosen up as you drive
A cheater bar works good tutorials
What's the front rotor diameter for a sedan V6?
Me gustaría saber cómo puedo conseguir el screwdriver para remover los tornillos del rotor ya que son muy complicados de sacarlos sin que se barran los tornillos,
Good video..where can i buy that special tool you pushed the piston?
+Adrian Zamora Tools and other parts can be purchased directly through our site at www.1aauto.com
Which brand of Silicon paste do you use on the caliper pins?
+Peter J Diaz de Leon You can use any brand of brake grease.
Use 3M
Intro music is like nails on a chalkboard. Nonetheless, thanks for the information
What if you have drum brakes?
I was able to do this but now have an occasional rubbing sound without braking. Any thoughts??
+Patrick Cruser We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. You may need to apply some brake quiet to it to avoid the noises. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Wrong terminology. That's not a "pneumatic screwdriver" but an "impact driver".
What is the name of the tool with the four-way catch?
And just to be clear, this works for a Honda Accord 2003 Coupe?
+Drew Tube It should be a similar procedure for your vehicle. Thanks for checking us out!
+Drew Tube It should be a similar procedure for your vehicle. Thanks for checking us out!
+Drew Tube Thanks for checking us out. Yes, the install should be the same or similar. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
+Drew Tube We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Is it necessary to change the brake fluid out when doing this if the fluid looks degraded, having a slight brown hint in appearance? If so, an instructional video on how to do that along with a brake change procedure would be helpful.
+Reggy Baxter Thank you for your checking us out! It would not be necessary to change out your brake fluid. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
Hi this lady did a great job and everything went fine.please don't complicate matters by suggesting fluid change not as easy as you think and I wish to tell readers to ignore it.
What if your slider is seized?
I’d just get a new caliper
She is referring to the screwdriver being used as a "pneumatic" screwdriver. It is not! A pneumatic tool is compressed air driven. The impact screwdriver she is using is not compressed air driven. It is manual and it is actually called an "impact" screwdriver. Nothing "pneumatic" about it.
She doesn’t show to to push back the caliper
You're doing the FRONT.not the rear...........lol......Z
great vid, where can i get that same tool for the brake piston?
Autozone