Great to see all these different amps coming in for service & repair. You sure do give a vast amount of info, tech tips and general information about their operation etc. Great channel, and top sharing and lessons to be learned..Thanks for sharing as usual..Ed..uk..😀
Thanks so much for filming a Mesa Repair. Thanks also for discussing coupling cap shortfalls. I own a 90’s Blue Angel I bought new. I have obtained new F&T filter caps as I can see a little physical leakage from one and they are beyond life span. I’ll now check the orange drop coupling caps when I go back in there, which will be a month or so. Too much other stuff to do now.
I sent my ToV to a Mesa authorised guy in Akron Ohio for a full set of merc mag iron and new filter caps. It’s uk wiring but he fitted a US MOV… that Mov went BANG when I plugged it in here in England! It fried the outlet socket on my wall and tripped the house electrics. I subsequently Took it to a tech in London whom also deduced that the guy never soldered some connections on the output xmfr taps! This was someone named on the mesa site!!! I’m told the amps fine but I’ve never had confidence in it since. It whistles when you power it off
I'm 100% convinced now that bean-counters (i.e. the ones who work for Mesa/Boogie), that are so obsessed with maximizing tidy profit-margins, shouldn't be allowed to design guitar amps.
Very much looking foward to the 5150. I just finished repairs to mine. All new screen grid resistors and 1 tube socket on the power board. 3 pots on the preamp board and a massive cleaning as the previous owner spilled what was either coffee or coke in the amp. They cleaned it up externally before I got it, but i ended up with it dying on me (this is my 2nd 5150..sold the first one...big mistake) and the journey began! I learned alot by watching your video's to add to my skills which allowed me to fix my 5150...along with some parts lists and all the schematics (if you need them, let me know). So a huge thanks. I'm Really excited for the 5150 video. They may not be the best layout or components etc .. whatever... but it has a sound that I discovered when I had no clue who EVH was back in '92 / '93 when I started playing guitar. I just remeber the monsterous sound (and gain) and that did it for me!
I used to own one of these. The 2x12 combo version. I have a love/hate relationship with Mesa amps. I might buy a rack-mount Mesa TC100 next year. It appears to be, somewhat, the Mesa version of the 5150 III. I'd love to see those two amps open, side-by-side. I am definitely looking forward to your 5150 video! EL34 or 6L6?
Interesting how Mesa/Boogie tried to save themselves a few bucks by going with a fuse-holder like that one, instead of putting a decent one in an amp that maybe retails for what, $5,000 or so, they obviously were trying to maximize their tidy little profit-margin, or, they were trying too hard to keep the bean-counters happy.
I rarely squirt contact cleaner directly from a can into the switch or control ---- I squirt some into the plastic cap and suck it up into a syringe and use that to apply as little contact cleaner as is necessary to do the job. Saves on expensive cleaners and doesn't flush so much of the original lubrication out of the shaft bushing, so that the rotary friction of the pot feels pretty much the same as it did before cleaning it (assuming it wasn't already tight or sticky).
@@shckltnebay , I do use DeOxit and other similar electronic cleaners, but the lubrication left behind by DeOxit is never the same as what's in the original potentiometer. The more you spray the pot, the more likely it is to not feel quite the same afterwards. Besides which, the spray cans invariably waste expensive cleaner, pumping out more than you really need in one burst. Using a syringe also helps you avoid leaving a greasy, dust-holding residue all over the circuit board below the pot. If there's any chance that you might have to resolder the connections to the pots, you will appreciate not having a greasy, solder-repelling residue all over them. (PS, if youre working with very high-impedance circuits, or high voltage areas such as tube sockets, It is best not to spray those with any kind of lubricating cleaner or anything that leaves a residue. Lyle will back me up on this. RF circuits are a worst- case scenario ---- don't spray an analog tuning condenser with DeOxit! --- and I have also seen valuable vintage tube testers that have been ruined or made to work intermittently because somebody sprayed all the rotary switches with the DeOxit).
@@shckltnebay , My apologies; I didn't intend to make it seem as if I was assuming.... There are dozens of technicians and wannabe technicians on UA-cam and elsewhere who do indeed spray tube sockets with DeOxit. Anyway, in my experience, he (or she) who cleans electronic connectors, switches and and potentiometers wilith the least amount of liquid, and little to no residue,, is probably doing the best possible job. Like a writer, or public speaker,, who knows how to make a few words convey so much.....
@@goodun2974 I just started using De-oxit a few months ago and did some research before using it. Thanks to channels like this and Uncle Doug ive learned a lot just from UA-cam but do a lot of reading on tube amp repair
Lyle, do you have a preference for bayonet-type fuseholder caps, or threaded fuseholder caps? My guess is that the bayonet type are less likely to loosen and become intermittent or fall out and get lost on their own, from sound vibrations and road travel back and forth to gigs ---- but the bayonet cap won't stay in place without a fuse in the holder, which is annoying. I have seen plenty of amps come in for service with a missing bayonet type cap but rarely do I see one arrive without a threaded type cap. My suspicion is that the player pulls out the bad fuse and sticks it in his pocket as a reminder of what value of what value of fuse to buy (if he doesn't already have a spare) and then he sticks the fuse cap back on, but if it's a bayonet-cap it won't stay in place without the spring tension provided by a fuse, and subsequently the cap falls off and vanishes.... I am currently in the process of restocking and organizing all my plastic parts trays, and sorting through a bunch of bags and boxes of misc parts picked up over the years at ham radio fests, electronics-shop closings, and flea markets ---- I had a quart-size ziploc baggie full of loose fuses, which took a while to go through (good stuff, mostly Buss and Littlefuse, not Asian made junk). At age 63, I can't read the amperage value stamped on the fuses without the aid of a magnifying visor!
Dual Rect Tremo-verb combo here but reverb doesnt work. Tank is new and ALL tubes tested good. ( It used to belong to Justin Hayward of the Moody Blues).....any ideas??
Those Mesa Pots with the golden case and black plastic D Shaft are just a POS. They tend to loose crimp clamp on the casing and then cut out whenever you do not expect it. Recrimping helps for a certain time but a good Alpha or CTS lasts much longer…
A Peavey 5150 and a Dual Rectifier, looking forward to the videos.
Just finished a mkiii. I shudder every time I go beyond this model.
Great to see all these different amps coming in for service & repair. You sure do give a vast amount of info, tech tips and general information about their operation etc. Great channel, and top sharing and lessons to be learned..Thanks for sharing as usual..Ed..uk..😀
Thanks so much for filming a Mesa Repair. Thanks also for discussing coupling cap shortfalls. I own a 90’s Blue Angel I bought new. I have obtained new F&T filter caps as I can see a little physical leakage from one and they are beyond life span. I’ll now check the orange drop coupling caps when I go back in there, which will be a month or so. Too much other stuff to do now.
I sent my ToV to a Mesa authorised guy in Akron Ohio for a full set of merc mag iron and new filter caps. It’s uk wiring but he fitted a US MOV… that Mov went BANG when I plugged it in here in England! It fried the outlet socket on my wall and tripped the house electrics. I subsequently Took it to a tech in London whom also deduced that the guy never soldered some connections on the output xmfr taps! This was someone named on the mesa site!!! I’m told the amps fine but I’ve never had confidence in it since. It whistles when you power it off
Awesome that you got to get an idea of what to look for when I drop off my trem-o-verb.
I'm 100% convinced now that bean-counters (i.e. the ones who work for Mesa/Boogie), that are so obsessed with maximizing tidy profit-margins, shouldn't be allowed to design guitar amps.
Very much looking foward to the 5150. I just finished repairs to mine. All new screen grid resistors and 1 tube socket on the power board. 3 pots on the preamp board and a massive cleaning as the previous owner spilled what was either coffee or coke in the amp. They cleaned it up externally before I got it, but i ended up with it dying on me (this is my 2nd 5150..sold the first one...big mistake) and the journey began! I learned alot by watching your video's to add to my skills which allowed me to fix my 5150...along with some parts lists and all the schematics (if you need them, let me know). So a huge thanks. I'm Really excited for the 5150 video. They may not be the best layout or components etc .. whatever... but it has a sound that I discovered when I had no clue who EVH was back in '92 / '93 when I started playing guitar. I just remeber the monsterous sound (and gain) and that did it for me!
Hmm, funny concerns about Mesa, Mesa, Mesa.
I'll bet you have a boat load of Mesa zip ties.😀
The ONLY Mesa amp I've cared for right there, well, that and the Recto-verb/Single. Everything else they make is firewood to me.
what do you like about the recto-verb curious
Fantastic run through mate. Look forward to seeing the end result.. Love your vids mate, keep it up :)
I used to own one of these. The 2x12 combo version. I have a love/hate relationship with Mesa amps. I might buy a rack-mount Mesa TC100 next year. It appears to be, somewhat, the Mesa version of the 5150 III. I'd love to see those two amps open, side-by-side. I am definitely looking forward to your 5150 video! EL34 or 6L6?
I would advise against it
I hated that permanently attached straw. Those cans always leak all over the place.
Interesting how Mesa/Boogie tried to save themselves a few bucks by going with a fuse-holder like that one, instead of putting a decent one in an amp that maybe retails for what, $5,000 or so, they obviously were trying to maximize their tidy little profit-margin, or, they were trying too hard to keep the bean-counters happy.
These were only $1600 when they were brand new, but you still make a very valid point.
I rarely squirt contact cleaner directly from a can into the switch or control ---- I squirt some into the plastic cap and suck it up into a syringe and use that to apply as little contact cleaner as is necessary to do the job. Saves on expensive cleaners and doesn't flush so much of the original lubrication out of the shaft bushing, so that the rotary friction of the pot feels pretty much the same as it did before cleaning it (assuming it wasn't already tight or sticky).
Why not use de-oxit?
@@shckltnebay , I do use DeOxit and other similar electronic cleaners, but the lubrication left behind by DeOxit is never the same as what's in the original potentiometer. The more you spray the pot, the more likely it is to not feel quite the same afterwards. Besides which, the spray cans invariably waste expensive cleaner, pumping out more than you really need in one burst. Using a syringe also helps you avoid leaving a greasy, dust-holding residue all over the circuit board below the pot. If there's any chance that you might have to resolder the connections to the pots, you will appreciate not having a greasy, solder-repelling residue all over them. (PS, if youre working with very high-impedance circuits, or high voltage areas such as tube sockets, It is best not to spray those with any kind of lubricating cleaner or anything that leaves a residue. Lyle will back me up on this. RF circuits are a worst- case scenario ---- don't spray an analog tuning condenser with DeOxit! --- and I have also seen valuable vintage tube testers that have been ruined or made to work intermittently because somebody sprayed all the rotary switches with the DeOxit).
@@goodun2974 I dont use it on tube sockets
@@shckltnebay , My apologies; I didn't intend to make it seem as if I was assuming.... There are dozens of technicians and wannabe technicians on UA-cam and elsewhere who do indeed spray tube sockets with DeOxit. Anyway, in my experience, he (or she) who cleans electronic connectors, switches and and potentiometers wilith the least amount of liquid, and little to no residue,, is probably doing the best possible job. Like a writer, or public speaker,, who knows how to make a few words convey so much.....
@@goodun2974 I just started using De-oxit a few months ago and did some research before using it. Thanks to channels like this and Uncle Doug ive learned a lot just from UA-cam but do a lot of reading on tube amp repair
Lyle, do you have a preference for bayonet-type fuseholder caps, or threaded fuseholder caps? My guess is that the bayonet type are less likely to loosen and become intermittent or fall out and get lost on their own, from sound vibrations and road travel back and forth to gigs ---- but the bayonet cap won't stay in place without a fuse in the holder, which is annoying. I have seen plenty of amps come in for service with a missing bayonet type cap but rarely do I see one arrive without a threaded type cap. My suspicion is that the player pulls out the bad fuse and sticks it in his pocket as a reminder of what value of what value of fuse to buy (if he doesn't already have a spare) and then he sticks the fuse cap back on, but if it's a bayonet-cap it won't stay in place without the spring tension provided by a fuse, and subsequently the cap falls off and vanishes....
I am currently in the process of restocking and organizing all my plastic parts trays, and sorting through a bunch of bags and boxes of misc parts picked up over the years at ham radio fests, electronics-shop closings, and flea markets ---- I had a quart-size ziploc baggie full of loose fuses, which took a while to go through (good stuff, mostly Buss and Littlefuse, not Asian made junk). At age 63, I can't read the amperage value stamped on the fuses without the aid of a magnifying visor!
Dual Rect Tremo-verb combo here but reverb doesnt work. Tank is new and ALL tubes tested good. ( It used to belong to Justin Hayward of the Moody Blues).....any ideas??
Those Mesa Pots with the golden case and black plastic D Shaft are just a POS. They tend to loose crimp clamp on the casing and then cut out whenever you do not expect it. Recrimping helps for a certain time but a good Alpha or CTS lasts much longer…
Yeah, they are junk. Mesa owners regularly get mad at me when I tell them their amp is full of junk and bad ideas.
But they are.
@@PsionicAudio The truth sometimes hurts, but honesty IS the best policy.
I enjoy all your videos and can't wait for another update on the JMI AC30.
What about just J-hooking those new caps in?
I'm not a hack.
Looks like 10 lbs. of shit in a 5 lb. box.
NEVER MESA EOM
Messy Booger.
More zip ties than electrical components.