I picked up this same model as non-working a few years ago for £0. The previous owner had used it with headhones as a bedroom amp and the headphone socket had dirtied / corroded leaving the speaker bypassed. Cleaned up the headphone socket and the amp resumed normal service. Basically a budget amp with budget components which will eventually need a little bit of TLC. Good sounding amp for a budget SS. Sold on to a young beginner for £30.
I got a 30CDR for virtually nothing and found that several of the pots were damaged, which makes me think it did a face-plant. Got the pots swapped and was surprisdd that a SS Marshall sounded so good. I like the dirty channel with the gain as low as it will go for crunch.
I love these "minor" fix videos that you do. Still so in depth and interesting. Your knowledge and precise troubleshooting is really enjoyable to watch.
Nice video. I have a few solid state amps that I love, but honestly hold no value other than nostalgia. I’ve been loving playing my Peavey Super Chorus 212. Dialing in an edge of breakup on that amp is beautiful. I will admit, though, that my Vox AC15C1 is an also a beautiful, unique sound and I appreciate your recommendation on that one. I always enjoy your videos, Lyle . Keep up the wonderful work.👍
Learning alot every video Lyle, DC on the speaker out is a big deal and I have a MG 10 I bought for $20 it lasted about 3 years cant complain ,but they do sound pretty good when working properly
I have fixed a few of those DSP boards by putting them in a toaster oven to reflow the solder for SMT components. Which reminds me that I need to get a replacement toaster oven. The one I used for shop work got lost in the move to my new place.
Oh I just remembered that back in the spring I fixed a small 4 channel mixer for a friends son using a heat gun to reflow the solder for the SMT components. That was the day I realized my toaster oven had gotten lost in the move. LOL
I’m glad to see you give some love to this amp. Sometimes we guitarist can be snobs and forget that the best amp is the one we have at hand. My first amp was an MD50 DFX, and I played it for some 10 years before getting my first tube amp. It allowed me to learn a lot about tone and gigging. Never failed, was always loud and served me well. Now I own a lot of fancier equipment, and actually sold my MD50 DFX, for lack of use, but I don’t forget that a little solid state combo can get you to places and is more than enough to have fun playing guitar
Agree on that fuse holder, my old Valvestate had one iirc. Any flex or bump on the one is the MG could be the reason the cabling failed, as its hanging there.
Modern, cheaply made, in line fused holders are notorious for failure because they're often poorly crimped and the contacts are often grungy and oxidized. Always inspect them and recrimp or solder the wire to the contacts and clean/ polish as needed.
My uncle had an MG50dfx that was strikingly different to this. It had a discrete pcb for the power amp chip, with a heat sink and somewhat annoying fan. It had gone out after he had used it on full blast, and the fuse had blown. After some troubleshooting, I found that the power amp board had become completely conductive, every trace connected to one another. Fun problem to solve, since there were no replacement pcbs available at the time.
Always happy to see you work on a "real world" (lower end) amp, esp. solid state. Would have liked to know what your tack would have been if you HAD found DC on the speaker connects (and HOW that occurs), as I've not heard of that issue.
You can solder a 400 volt 47nF capacitor onto one of the speaker wires, and it becomes a blocking capacitor, and the amp is still NOT fixed yet, but the speaker is protected from the DC voltage. The parts are obsolete and finding suitable new parts can take hours to find and then implement the new formats (SMD) into older (Through Hole) designs. That is why the Marshall MG is going into the recycle bin. It's not a clean vintage flagship model Sansui stereo receiver that you can sell for $5000 refurbished.
Tried to fix the same amp for a friend of a neighbor. Power chip was visibly blown. Got a new one, replaced it, and it lasted less than a minute before it blew again. I told the owner it was likely bad filter caps and the cost of trouble shooting and fixing it was more than the amp was worth. I gave him $10 for it so I could use the cab and chassis for a junk yard dog spare parts amp.
I had luck to buy second hand speaker to be used in my (not_exact_copy_of) AX84 hight octane build, but with aut cabinet. I was thinking that owner had speaker upgrade, but, after this video it looks like this model is solid resource to used speakers and cabinets for 4 oms diy amplifiers. There is one more left in local market on line.
Oddly, I think this makes for a great acoustic amp. I have a little Park solid state that I use with a soundhole Seymor Duncan for acoustic playing when not using a fender. I play a lot of lead with it on acoustic, so it gives me a bit of electric punch. It sounds best to me with a mahogany acoustic, which has a bit of a dark sound anyway, and the natural EQ curve of a Marshall seems dark as well. I'm glad you were able to fix the guy up without breaking the bank.
Good thing is there are quite a few of these out there, we see them being sold not working cheap as chips. Redirected more than one using parts from a doner. Amp modules, FX boards and so on. Quite acceptable sounding for what it is.
gotta have the foot switch to engage the FX ( I have 3 MG's ) .. There isnt a button to push to engage the FX other than the foo switch . by now you know. But just in case some one reading needs to quickly know :)
Would be interesting to see a video that goes deeper into the effects failures. Is the DSP chip the common failure or is it something else on that board? Seems like name brand amps just get wired poorly from the factory.
I hate to 'jump out of left field' but ... how do you feel about the Marshall DSL40? Specifically, might it be built to fail? I realize that some new amps are, so ... just curious. ps- Love your stuff
There are a lot of players using these cheaper amps and to be honest at a gig no one who is listening would really care. A nice fix but am missing the Saturday night live chat. Ps, at the end of my gigging days I was using a small hybrid combo, light as a feather to save my back from carrying a Soldano combo.
What? Don't spray deoxit into circuit boards and leave it there! There's no reason whatsoever to spray Deoxit on or into anything that isn't a switch or potentiometer with moving contacts. Just don't!
Hey Lyle... Please only respond if you have time no pressure... You often explain how things get into the shape they're in like those cloth wires having voltage on them the other day or PC boards becoming conductive... Curious what your thoughts are on how things like this happened with a break in the neutral wire... Is it possible it was questionable from manufacture or something?
How long do solid state amps typically last? I have a little bass practice amp that is more than 20 years old and am curious how much longer to expect it to last. I run it almost full volume most of the time so it gets a regular workout. A 25 watt crate
I have a mid 2000's V33 crate head. It hadn't been used too much before it failed. I use it now for a foot stool. I think it used to poot and loose power after only a couple of minutes. I think from a little research, (You Tube), it might be the power tubes and or the preamp tubes. My question is do you know how to access this head to check the tubes and if need be , replace them. I have some decent amps but I do like my amps to work. Any shop manuals I might be able to purchase? thanks , J. I like your show. I have watched your videos for a couple or more years by now.
The question ,you've put here, is too broad.Specify your taste(transistor or semi/fulltube amp) and your budget limits.This also depends of on which side/part of the World,you're located(prices of used equipement can vary a lot,if you're in the States,Europe or somewhere else).I'm in the Netherlands and one of my favorit fulltube amp is a Rivera M60 or M100(you can find them as combo's or as a head),offered in the Netherlands/Germany around €600-800.
I was thinking the same thing. A piece of blue painter's tape over one of the terminals would have been wise, similar to how Lyle added an external power cord temporarily.
Somebody commented on one of your other videos that your voice sounds like Sylvester Stallone. I think you sound more like Tommy Lee Jones, although he has more of a laconic Texas drawl for obvious reasons. Or maybe you have a touch of Wilford Brimley.....
Those alligator chips were very close together, good job they didn’t touch! Why not fit a chassis mounted fuse holder accessible from the outside at the back? Thanks for bothering to film and show this one.
Without knowing how much of an angle the camera is on vs the speaker lead connection to the alligator clips, you don't have enough information to say they look too close together for electrical safety. The image projection changes with the angle. As for why not drill or punch a hole in the chassis for an externally accessible fuse holder...this is a video on an amplifier that already isn't worth the cost of repair. There's a lot more time ( = money) in adding a convenience that the customer didn't ask for than a small utility change for reliability.
Hey! Could I ask your opinion on something. I know you can't in good faith troubleshoot for me from far away, but just looking for opinions. I have a UA Interface that has the same type of 4 pin switch, with the 4 quick connects, and when I first got the interface new a couple years ago, about a few months in, everyday when I'd go to turn it on, it wouldn't always power on first try, and so I'd have to try the switch 2-3 times, and usually by the 3rd try or so it would turn on, and work fine. As the months went on, it would take more, and more try's, and here I was just assuming it was a mechanical issue in the switch. Finally one day, because it would take so many tries usually, I just left it on one day, and started unplugging it, and plugging it in from the AC in the back, and without fail for over a year it would turn on just fine, first try everyday, which made me think even more it was mechanical. Then one day I was listening to music, and it started cutting out, and trying to power itself off, and on sort of, so I turned it off immediately, and looked inside, and all the terminals of the switch were black, and cooked, and it even cooked off the quick connect insulator jackets on the red terminals, as well as left the terminals black too. I get continuity still, and my dad says he just thinks its a faulty/shorted switch, or the connections were bad, but I'm afraid it could also be the wire. I just also don't get why with the switch it hardly ever worked, but once I started powering off/on from the back that it worked fine for so long. Is it because when I left the switch on one day it just so happened the connection was good, and just stayed making contact, but when I used the switch, the vibration was affecting the contact? I just in theory don't really get that one. But yeah, like I say, I don't expect you to tell me for sure what's wrong, that's not possible, but do you have any thoughts? Sorry to drop this, but just curious if anyone has any thoughts, or opinions. Im ordering a switch, and was just going to replace the quick connects, or just hardwire the new connections to the switch, and start there.
I’ve replaced that switch on modern UA products. It’s like 3A 120V and is not ideal for a power switch. Sounds like yours was faulty but even when working and no longer being asked to switch, the connections weren’t solid (internally or at the QC connects or both) so over time it started arcing/burning. I replaced it with another one just like it but soldered the connections, then told the owners to switch with an outlet strip instead of the panel switch.
@ Hey! Oh really huh. That’s Interesting. Seems really low hah. Yeah, must have been faulty for sure. Good to know your thoughts. So in mine, it seems a little bit better rating. Could be since it’s the flagship X series, costs like $5000 lol, but yeah, it’s a pretty cheap like $5 switch. It says it’s 16A/125VAC, and 10A/277VAC, which is also a bit weird, because most switches I’m looking at on Digikey just say mainly 15A/125VAC, and 10A/250VAC, so I dunno if the stock one is a bit overrated technically, but in terms of ratings, am I mainly just worried about the Amperage at 125VAC? Is 250-277VAC just for like different countries, or higher rated industrial stuff or something? Also, can I get your advice. Do you think I’m okay with a high quality 15A/125VAC switch running in US/Canada? Like it’s not even using close to 15-16 Amps is it? I found some nice ones at Digikey, like $15-30, mind you the price just jumped up on them a couple weeks ago, but I found a nice Carling switch I was gunna go with maybe thats 15A/125VAC, or do you think I should even up the rating/specs even more just to be safe? Also yeah, thanks for the advice on the hard soldering. That’s what I was thinking too.
It's almost always the speaker. I've had budget amps hooked up to large cabs and suddenly they made serious noise. Investing into a good speaker is worth it, especially because you can keep the original speaker to swap it back in when selling the amp. You don't spend on speakers, you invest in them.
4 min after warranty expired ah ah. Now I know. I was thinking of it with a ME25 pedal instead of a Katana which my only hope would be to make it sound good with some adjustment in the software. Never happened to hear a good meaty sound out of it.
I picked up this same model as non-working a few years ago for £0. The previous owner had used it with headhones as a bedroom amp and the headphone socket had dirtied / corroded leaving the speaker bypassed. Cleaned up the headphone socket and the amp resumed normal service. Basically a budget amp with budget components which will eventually need a little bit of TLC. Good sounding amp for a budget SS. Sold on to a young beginner for £30.
I got a 30CDR for virtually nothing and found that several of the pots were damaged, which makes me think it did a face-plant. Got the pots swapped and was surprisdd that a SS Marshall sounded so good. I like the dirty channel with the gain as low as it will go for crunch.
I love these "minor" fix videos that you do. Still so in depth and interesting. Your knowledge and precise troubleshooting is really enjoyable to watch.
Nice video. I have a few solid state amps that I love, but honestly hold no value other than nostalgia. I’ve been loving playing my Peavey Super Chorus 212. Dialing in an edge of breakup on that amp is beautiful.
I will admit, though, that my Vox AC15C1 is an also a beautiful, unique sound and I appreciate your recommendation on that one.
I always enjoy your videos, Lyle . Keep up the wonderful work.👍
Learning alot every video Lyle, DC on the speaker out is a big deal and I have a MG 10 I bought for $20 it lasted about 3 years cant complain ,but they do sound pretty good when working properly
I have fixed a few of those DSP boards by putting them in a toaster oven to reflow the solder for SMT components. Which reminds me that I need to get a replacement toaster oven. The one I used for shop work got lost in the move to my new place.
Love your channel. I might have to break something just so I can send it to you.
Oh I just remembered that back in the spring I fixed a small 4 channel mixer for a friends son using a heat gun to reflow the solder for the SMT components. That was the day I realized my toaster oven had gotten lost in the move. LOL
I’m glad to see you give some love to this amp. Sometimes we guitarist can be snobs and forget that the best amp is the one we have at hand.
My first amp was an MD50 DFX, and I played it for some 10 years before getting my first tube amp. It allowed me to learn a lot about tone and gigging. Never failed, was always loud and served me well.
Now I own a lot of fancier equipment, and actually sold my MD50 DFX, for lack of use, but I don’t forget that a little solid state combo can get you to places and is more than enough to have fun playing guitar
Great fix.
Agree on that fuse holder, my old Valvestate had one iirc. Any flex or bump on the one is the MG could be the reason the cabling failed, as its hanging there.
Modern, cheaply made, in line fused holders are notorious for failure because they're often poorly crimped and the contacts are often grungy and oxidized. Always inspect them and recrimp or solder the wire to the contacts and clean/ polish as needed.
I would say that was worth a look! Nice, troubleshooting Lyle.
My uncle had an MG50dfx that was strikingly different to this. It had a discrete pcb for the power amp chip, with a heat sink and somewhat annoying fan. It had gone out after he had used it on full blast, and the fuse had blown. After some troubleshooting, I found that the power amp board had become completely conductive, every trace connected to one another. Fun problem to solve, since there were no replacement pcbs available at the time.
Always happy to see you work on a "real world" (lower end) amp, esp. solid state. Would have liked to know what your tack would have been if you HAD found DC on the speaker connects (and HOW that occurs), as I've not heard of that issue.
In this case, the amp would have been landfill as a repair would exceed the value. I’d have to rebuild the output sections.
You can solder a 400 volt 47nF capacitor onto one of the speaker wires, and it becomes a blocking capacitor, and the amp is still NOT fixed yet, but the speaker is protected from the DC voltage. The parts are obsolete and finding suitable new parts can take hours to find and then implement the new formats (SMD) into older (Through Hole) designs. That is why the Marshall MG is going into the recycle bin. It's not a clean vintage flagship model Sansui stereo receiver that you can sell for $5000 refurbished.
@@Satchmoeddie thanks for that info..
I have a tube amp that’s cheap and is in the “real world”
@@m-baka As do I. What's your point?
Tried to fix the same amp for a friend of a neighbor. Power chip was visibly blown. Got a new one, replaced it, and it lasted less than a minute before it blew again. I told the owner it was likely bad filter caps and the cost of trouble shooting and fixing it was more than the amp was worth. I gave him $10 for it so I could use the cab and chassis for a junk yard dog spare parts amp.
I had luck to buy second hand speaker to be used in my (not_exact_copy_of) AX84 hight octane build, but with aut cabinet. I was thinking that owner had speaker upgrade, but, after this video it looks like this model is solid resource to used speakers and cabinets for 4 oms diy amplifiers. There is one more left in local market on line.
I have a MG50DFX and the only effects i mainly used was the reverb. They work well with effects pedals.
Po folks need to rock out too! ;) nice fix Lyle!
Must be a really good friend, I have never heard one of those sound good, but if anybody could make it do so you could
Oddly, I think this makes for a great acoustic amp. I have a little Park solid state that I use with a soundhole Seymor Duncan for acoustic playing when not using a fender. I play a lot of lead with it on acoustic, so it gives me a bit of electric punch. It sounds best to me with a mahogany acoustic, which has a bit of a dark sound anyway, and the natural EQ curve of a Marshall seems dark as well. I'm glad you were able to fix the guy up without breaking the bank.
At the 1:05 mark you said that you were testing the hot but your red meter leader is one the neutral side of the plug.
I promise I wasn’t.
Thank you for the video. So much to learn.
Good thing is there are quite a few of these out there, we see them being sold not working cheap as chips. Redirected more than one using parts from a doner. Amp modules, FX boards and so on. Quite acceptable sounding for what it is.
gotta have the foot switch to engage the FX ( I have 3 MG's ) .. There isnt a button to push to engage the FX other than the foo switch . by now you know. But just in case some one reading needs to quickly know :)
amazing video
Would be interesting to see a video that goes deeper into the effects failures. Is the DSP chip the common failure or is it something else on that board? Seems like name brand amps just get wired poorly from the factory.
I hate to 'jump out of left field' but ... how do you feel about the Marshall DSL40? Specifically, might it be built to fail? I realize that some new amps are, so ... just curious. ps- Love your stuff
Lyle, have you done a video on troubleshooting a solid state amp? Or if not, could you possible do one in the future?
I just did. ;)
I have quite a few up on the channel already, though it’s a small percentage.
@ thank you, I’ll check them out.
Marshalls, like Rock 'N' Roll itself, can never truly die. 😁
How I wish that was the case. Recently they’re making more money off Bluetooth speakers than they are amps so the amps are getting worse and worse.
@@PsionicAudio Wow, and I came '🤏' close to buying one of their Bluetooth speakers.
There are a lot of players using these cheaper amps and to be honest at a gig no one who is listening would really care. A nice fix but am missing the Saturday night live chat. Ps, at the end of my gigging days I was using a small hybrid combo, light as a feather to save my back from carrying a Soldano combo.
Deoxit over the circuit can work well on old Marshalls.
What? Don't spray deoxit into circuit boards and leave it there! There's no reason whatsoever to spray Deoxit on or into anything that isn't a switch or potentiometer with moving contacts. Just don't!
@@goodun2974 Oh thanks, but it worked completely on the problem anyway.
Hey Lyle... Please only respond if you have time no pressure... You often explain how things get into the shape they're in like those cloth wires having voltage on them the other day or PC boards becoming conductive... Curious what your thoughts are on how things like this happened with a break in the neutral wire... Is it possible it was questionable from manufacture or something?
I imagine the cable was strained at some point and the neutral broke inside it. Power cables see a lot of abuse in their life.
@@PsionicAudio So do UA-camrs! Appreciate you... thanks for the reply.
How long do solid state amps typically last?
I have a little bass practice amp that is more than 20 years old and am curious how much longer to expect it to last. I run it almost full volume most of the time so it gets a regular workout. A 25 watt crate
20+ years if it doesn’t say Eden, Ashdown, or SWR on it.
I have a mid 2000's V33 crate head. It hadn't been used too much before it failed. I use it now for a foot stool. I think it used to poot and loose power after only a couple of minutes. I think from a little research, (You Tube), it might be the power tubes and or the preamp tubes. My question is do you know how to access this head to check the tubes and if need be , replace them. I have some decent amps but I do like my amps to work. Any shop manuals I might be able to purchase? thanks , J. I like your show. I have watched your videos for a couple or more years by now.
Is there an email one can use to reach you to ask personal amp questions?
Hey Lyle...would something like Orange Crush 100 be repairable? In general how long would you say solid state amps of that caliber last?
The best
Mahalo Lyle
Lyle, isnt there a risk of shorting those exposed output leads and blowing the transistor?
Depends on the circuit design. I didn’t short them but I didn’t do anything elaborate to prevent it.
Hey man, I just found your channel, I’m looking to buy an amp and not break the bank, what is a good amp? I will use pedals for sound inputs
The question ,you've put here, is too broad.Specify your taste(transistor or semi/fulltube amp) and your budget limits.This also depends of on which side/part of the World,you're located(prices of used equipement can vary a lot,if you're in the States,Europe or somewhere else).I'm in the Netherlands and one of my favorit fulltube amp is a Rivera M60 or M100(you can find them as combo's or as a head),offered in the Netherlands/Germany around €600-800.
My first amp that could push some air, sad I let it go.
Is it possible the small drop from the current limiter affected the multi fx ability to function?
Scourge of my childhood.
Another convenience of SS amps, no speaker load no problem.
Careful, if those speaker wires touch, your amp is toast.
I was thinking the same thing. A piece of blue painter's tape over one of the terminals would have been wise, similar to how Lyle added an external power cord temporarily.
The Marshall is dead! Long live the Marshall!
Somebody commented on one of your other videos that your voice sounds like Sylvester Stallone. I think you sound more like Tommy Lee Jones, although he has more of a laconic Texas drawl for obvious reasons. Or maybe you have a touch of Wilford Brimley.....
I detest oatmeal…
@PsionicAudio , I like Oatmeal! Not instant oatmeal; and with chopped walnuts and chopped dates or raisins added...
I guess at that price point modding to an IEC conector isnt worth it.
Nope.
Those alligator chips were very close together, good job they didn’t touch! Why not fit a chassis mounted fuse holder accessible from the outside at the back? Thanks for bothering to film and show this one.
Without knowing how much of an angle the camera is on vs the speaker lead connection to the alligator clips, you don't have enough information to say they look too close together for electrical safety. The image projection changes with the angle.
As for why not drill or punch a hole in the chassis for an externally accessible fuse holder...this is a video on an amplifier that already isn't worth the cost of repair. There's a lot more time ( = money) in adding a convenience that the customer didn't ask for than a small utility change for reliability.
Hey! Could I ask your opinion on something. I know you can't in good faith troubleshoot for me from far away, but just looking for opinions.
I have a UA Interface that has the same type of 4 pin switch, with the 4 quick connects, and when I first got the interface new a couple years ago, about a few months in, everyday when I'd go to turn it on, it wouldn't always power on first try, and so I'd have to try the switch 2-3 times, and usually by the 3rd try or so it would turn on, and work fine. As the months went on, it would take more, and more try's, and here I was just assuming it was a mechanical issue in the switch. Finally one day, because it would take so many tries usually, I just left it on one day, and started unplugging it, and plugging it in from the AC in the back, and without fail for over a year it would turn on just fine, first try everyday, which made me think even more it was mechanical. Then one day I was listening to music, and it started cutting out, and trying to power itself off, and on sort of, so I turned it off immediately, and looked inside, and all the terminals of the switch were black, and cooked, and it even cooked off the quick connect insulator jackets on the red terminals, as well as left the terminals black too. I get continuity still, and my dad says he just thinks its a faulty/shorted switch, or the connections were bad, but I'm afraid it could also be the wire. I just also don't get why with the switch it hardly ever worked, but once I started powering off/on from the back that it worked fine for so long. Is it because when I left the switch on one day it just so happened the connection was good, and just stayed making contact, but when I used the switch, the vibration was affecting the contact? I just in theory don't really get that one.
But yeah, like I say, I don't expect you to tell me for sure what's wrong, that's not possible, but do you have any thoughts? Sorry to drop this, but just curious if anyone has any thoughts, or opinions. Im ordering a switch, and was just going to replace the quick connects, or just hardwire the new connections to the switch, and start there.
I’ve replaced that switch on modern UA products. It’s like 3A 120V and is not ideal for a power switch.
Sounds like yours was faulty but even when working and no longer being asked to switch, the connections weren’t solid (internally or at the QC connects or both) so over time it started arcing/burning.
I replaced it with another one just like it but soldered the connections, then told the owners to switch with an outlet strip instead of the panel switch.
@ Hey! Oh really huh. That’s Interesting. Seems really low hah. Yeah, must have been faulty for sure. Good to know your thoughts.
So in mine, it seems a little bit better rating. Could be since it’s the flagship X series, costs like $5000 lol, but yeah, it’s a pretty cheap like $5 switch.
It says it’s 16A/125VAC, and 10A/277VAC, which is also a bit weird, because most switches I’m looking at on Digikey just say mainly 15A/125VAC, and 10A/250VAC, so I dunno if the stock one is a bit overrated technically, but in terms of ratings, am I mainly just worried about the Amperage at 125VAC? Is 250-277VAC just for like different countries, or higher rated industrial stuff or something?
Also, can I get your advice. Do you think I’m okay with a high quality 15A/125VAC switch running in US/Canada? Like it’s not even using close to 15-16 Amps is it?
I found some nice ones at Digikey, like $15-30, mind you the price just jumped up on them a couple weeks ago, but I found a nice Carling switch I was gunna go with maybe thats 15A/125VAC, or do you think I should even up the rating/specs even more just to be safe?
Also yeah, thanks for the advice on the hard soldering. That’s what I was thinking too.
I used to have an MG50DFX. It was the worst sounding amp I have ever heard. Gave it away.
It's almost always the speaker. I've had budget amps hooked up to large cabs and suddenly they made serious noise. Investing into a good speaker is worth it, especially because you can keep the original speaker to swap it back in when selling the amp. You don't spend on speakers, you invest in them.
guitar amp?? I thought this was a plumbing channel ;)
🤣🤣🤣
had one of those lol
4 min after warranty expired ah ah. Now I know. I was thinking of it with a ME25 pedal instead of a Katana which my only hope would be to make it sound good with some adjustment in the software. Never happened to hear a good meaty sound out of it.
Good nokacwe for these lol dead.
An old.kwavy is better. Sound and reliability.
Friends work on Friends crappy Marshall's
All MG series suck...