Sadly it won’t last. Seen multiple tests and this method, the concrete is weak and brittle. Corners will easily chip off and it will not last. Go do a search if you think am lying.
Very true, plenty of UA-cam videos on this very subject. Often in construction these type of quick easy methods are just plain dumb, if the method has worked for years it don't need a reinventing 😂
I agree that wet pour is better, but dry pour does have a place in certain projects. But to say that a working method doesn't need reinventing is somewhat stupid. How do you think things are improved? People change and test current things until they find something better. Then we have a better way. For example: Before someone came up with concrete they used mud. I'm sure glad they decided to try a new method. I'm also glad someone decided to start mixing it with machines and carrying it with trucks.
It won't hold up to a car... But people walking on it? It should be okay. Though I don't know how well dry pour concrete will hold up in winter climates.
@@ronhanish there has been a few people who tested the dry pour vs wet pour methods. One even cut right through one to see how cured it got. The answer was pretty much as you'd expect. The cure was incomplete in the dry pour. While it did hold it's shape, it was overall brittle. They were able to chip away at it with their bare hands. It'll hold up a person walking on it, but I'd never suggest putting anything over 800 lbs on it.
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those afraid to try or think it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You must be patient and add design to the edges before watering it down.
Space between top of new slab and bottom of siding too narrow- can lead to prolonged moisture exposure to the sill plate. Not saying this is what he has, but for example, Hardie siding requires minimum 4” gap from bottom edge of siding to any horizontal surface. Also looks like he made slab level when it should slope away from house. Going to have some nice green or brown staining on the siding.
Don’t trust the dry pour method, its just lazy, take the time to do the job right and you’ll be much happier. Your slab or post will start to chip and crack much sooner than if you just follow simple directions on a bag. This method is the definition of someone who says they don’t need to read directions. Do better guys cmon.
People are sick of corporate agendas. Break the rules the world is garbage. Experiment, at least history will have a record of our Experiments, that religious war dogs won't be able to erase.
It’s weaker than a real pour, but if it’s just people walking on it all the time it will last for a long time. Now if you’re driving a car on it and parking a car… won’t last. But in this situation nothing wrong with it. 😂
Last year I did a slab and mixed the cement before pouring it. This year I'll be trying this method because I want to extend the concrete. This method seems to be much more easier.
This can be done properly in a mixer or even hand mixed in a large bucket using sand ,cement and chippings at the correct ratio and it'l be solid within 24 hours , this videos way is not going to be as strong plus it takes ages
Not the video author, but most people do 1 hour between watering, but I did 30 min on mine and it seems fine to me. (I was in a hurry, and honestly didn't see the need to wait.)
@@d.a.4121 Nope, no problems at all. It's had ladders scraping across it and freezing temps with no issues. I'm about 6 months in. (I also did set-in-place bolts and those have held fine, as well.)
I need to build a concrete base so that I can put a shed on top of it. I can't afford thousands of dollars to pay someone. Is dry concrete good for what I need to do? I have zero experience with concrete, but I'm a fast learner and I can build stuff, especially working with wood. Thanks in advance. From what I've seen I need to first put gravel underneath before pouring concrete. One other question, if I have some thin metal rods, can I put them half way (depth wise) in the concrete so it can last longer?
Have to make sure your base rock layer is compacted properly for anything that will have weight on it at all. Best to hire someone that knows what they're doing rather than put the money out to have it mess up on you and have to put more money out to have it properly done.
What type of shed a mower shed that weighs a few hundred kgs or a car shed? Watch Cajun country dry poor slab they did a 1yr test on and it's held up better then wet slab as you only add enough water to set the concrete. Much easier to finish dry aswell as your not fighting against the clock and sticky wet Crete. Well compacted gravel layer wood form and enough sacks to fill the hole. Plus some rebar for long life.
I heard something about PSI when working with dry concrete versus wet, I recommend you read the bag of concrete, maybe it will tell you the PSI difference, because it might not be able to withhold the weight of the shed
Make sure you do a top layer of cement powder and sand, not the stuff with the gravel in it. When you screed it, the gravel won't cause an issue. Thank me later. I'm going to do a dry pour in the next few weeks
@@jakefriesenjake Thank you! I got this message after the fact. We tried our first paver. I noticed there was a lot of gravel even after screeding the Quikrete mix. My dry pour came out rough on top. My son and I will add mortar (cement and sand) on top tomorrow to smooth it out more. Hopefully it works. It was our 1st try.
@@YvetteR-ep2hc they make specialty concrete resurfacing concrete mix, probably be better off with that. Also, look up "white washing" or "painting with portland". That is also a great way to make old concrete look alot better. Many options. I did a small test sample using dry pour today. It's been like 8 hours already and it is not setting up nearly as good as I would like it too. Maybe it will be better in the morning
@@jakefriesenjake Hi! Thanks for all the advice. After much research, my son and I decided to try the Quikrete sand topping mix to fix our paver. It worked out well. Our paver is now smooth and looks so much better than before. It's totally trial and error. We are dong another paver tomorrow with Quikrete dry pour and we'll see how it turns out. We just have to remember to screed the surface better this time. Hopefully it won't give us the gravel results we had with the 1st one.
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those who are afraid to try or think that it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You have to be patient and add design on the edges before watering it down.
Can I do this on a concrete floor that is not leveled? Would I need to put some sort of bonding agent? This is inside a shed so it’s not a problem of wetting the floor.
A lot of improvements have gone into the formulations since the requirement of rebar installation. Fiberglass for instance, and pea gravel might not be seen in the mixture. Also, how many overweight (eg earthmoving tractors) vehicles will be driving on it?
@@craigmatheson2736 it doesn't even need to have anything driving over it, dry pouring will always resulted in much much sooner cracking when the soil settled, temperature changes, and water freezing under or inside of the concrete. Back in engineering schools we were thought how laughably bad dry poured concrete is compared to any wet poured concrete. Concrete need water to solidified, not just because you have to make it wet, the water inside the concrete literally become part of the concrete chemically and molecularly. All the water doesn't just evaporated when you think it's dry.
Start with a light mist twice within 10 minutes and hose it down lightly. Request throughout the day. You'll be fine. I'm afraid to do it first, but hey, it works. Cajun Country got me started on the project, so check them out if you need more help. I'm doing it my way. Both of my sidewalks are awesome, and I have no complaints.
@jimdob6528 it absolutely is otherwise you wouldn't ever see puddles on top of concrete after it cures. It's the mix between the heavy and fine aggregate as well as the Portland that makes cement what it is. If there's air pockets internally then it wasn't done properly.
@@mclovinfuddpucker I did a couple of dry pours last spring. So far they are fine. It’s not like the chemical curing process is any different between a dry pour and wet pour.
This is crap that will not last don’t do this dry concrete it will cost you your money to fix later. And if you are selling then the new owner will havto replace it all. This is for people that are intermediated about doing concrete because thy are scared not confident in finishing the concrete off before it drys. Well then don’t do it get a pro or someone that is not scared 😱 anyway this is a junk job don’t do it I am a General contractor licensed for 10 years with 25 years experience. Even when I was a newborn construction worker back in 1999 I still would not do this dry concrete junk. Please don’t do this 😢
No it doesn’t. Rebar isn’t even used on driveways. Wire mesh instead for driveways and nothing is used on sidewalks bc theres no vehicle traffic. They prepped with crusher run & coarse aggregate. Absolutely nothing wrong w this and rebar or wire mesh would have been a total waste
To get the same quality finish takes a lot of skill with wet cement. (I am guessing, never saw dry cement "poured" before "in real life.") On a dry pour you can endlessly keep sweeping and smoothing till it looks perfect. No time limit before it sets up.
@@plethoraOFtrivia not really, you can buy a mixer at harbor freight or use a wheel barrow. An ugly job would be better than dry pour. It's very brittle and half the strength. You can literally break it apart with your fingers. It will look very old easily.
@@plethoraOFtriviaYou can get this finish in wet concrete with a broom and an edger. No hate to the video poster at all, im not trying to talk down about anyones work at all, and its good to see families working together and tackling things themselves. The fact is though that this finish is very sandy and will deteriorate quickly. It looks like something that was bull floated and broomed, meaning it doesnt take a lot of trowel work to get a finish like this. A handy person with a couple hand tools could probably get a finish that looks like this or better, with the benefit of a denser surface and a stronger slab overall. Again, not trying to be mean at all, just speaking from my experience of not only finishing but teaching people how to finish and seeing how these skills are picked up. Some things in concrete are very difficult and take a lot of skill. I wouldnt say this is one of them. A broom finished 3x5 pad like this is about the easiest starter project you can take on to learn basic skills
Don't do it... it makes a weak, very fragile finished product. I appreciate innovation, but you are simply misusing a product that was never made to be used this way. Pour it wet, but not too wet, and you will have a strong solid product. If you are using pre mixed bag concrete, I'd recommend a little extra Portland cement.
Just why… there’s a reason to do it the correct way and then there’s these vids that won’t stop telling people how to try every other possible way to reach the same result…. But hey it’s not my time or money being wasted so I guess good job on a 1-2 yr diy special.
This method is futile and won't last, plenty of UA-cam videos on this very subject. Often in construction these type of quick easy methods are just plain dumb, if the method has worked for years it don't need a reinventing 😂
Concrete bags inside a shed will set like a rock from the moisture in the air alone. I got 10 at home that I can barely use without bashing with a sledge hammer first. And concrete mix has dehydrated lime that socks in plenty of mousiture and they are flooding the slab with water as it soaks in. The only reason they mist the top first is to set the texture they want before heavy watering.
Came straight to the comments😂
😂, I don't see how but okay.lol
Anybody ever try it this way?
I made my first dry pour a few weeks ago and looks great 🎉 thanks Cajun Country .
Sadly it won’t last. Seen multiple tests and this method, the concrete is weak and brittle. Corners will easily chip off and it will not last. Go do a search if you think am lying.
I wondered about that... thank u for the heads up
Very true, plenty of UA-cam videos on this very subject. Often in construction these type of quick easy methods are just plain dumb, if the method has worked for years it don't need a reinventing 😂
Yep 100%
UA-cam is so stupid
I agree that wet pour is better, but dry pour does have a place in certain projects. But to say that a working method doesn't need reinventing is somewhat stupid. How do you think things are improved? People change and test current things until they find something better. Then we have a better way. For example: Before someone came up with concrete they used mud. I'm sure glad they decided to try a new method. I'm also glad someone decided to start mixing it with machines and carrying it with trucks.
Just came to see all the comments from “professional” laborers 😂
Oh right because they’re all pretenders and you’re the actual “pro” LOL.
It won't hold up to a car... But people walking on it? It should be okay. Though I don't know how well dry pour concrete will hold up in winter climates.
@@ikecreates😂
@@Andrew-ih2gzI thought when he pulled the boards it would fall powder come at the bottom 😃?
@@ronhanish there has been a few people who tested the dry pour vs wet pour methods. One even cut right through one to see how cured it got. The answer was pretty much as you'd expect. The cure was incomplete in the dry pour. While it did hold it's shape, it was overall brittle. They were able to chip away at it with their bare hands.
It'll hold up a person walking on it, but I'd never suggest putting anything over 800 lbs on it.
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those afraid to try or think it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You must be patient and add design to the edges before watering it down.
Great job on your project, I hit like cause the baby said so 😊👍🏾 🎉
Just buy sand and aggregate by the trailer and add cement it's cheaper
I enjoyed the video. My son and I doing a dry concrete pour tomorrow. 12x20 with rebar.
I never really seen that before it does it work good?
Dry pouring seems like both an elaborate prank and genious.
It is a prank, it makes a very weak, very fragile version of concrete. It was never meant to be used this way.
@@glyssvictarion4387 yeah anything past people walking around on it, you'll be regretting not doing it correctly
@sagasta1983 well it says it's only a sidewalk. Located on sidewalk of his house so I figure it won't get much damage
@@johnholladay9497This will crack and fall apart within a few years at most, it's a complete waste of time
Lots of people do it...all over the internet w/updates.
Why do it once when you can do it twice and waste your time and money ripping it all out and redoing it
Thats only 1year job…….
WHY
I’m a fan of dry pour in certain situations. This is not a weight bearing application so it’s quick and easy.
So the sprinkling of the cake tool over the cement sidewalk is for grip. Good 💡👍 idea
Space between top of new slab and bottom of siding too narrow- can lead to prolonged moisture exposure to the sill plate. Not saying this is what he has, but for example, Hardie siding requires minimum 4” gap from bottom edge of siding to any horizontal surface. Also looks like he made slab level when it should slope away from house. Going to have some nice green or brown staining on the siding.
TRUE NO SLOPE
Don’t trust the dry pour method, its just lazy, take the time to do the job right and you’ll be much happier. Your slab or post will start to chip and crack much sooner than if you just follow simple directions on a bag. This method is the definition of someone who says they don’t need to read directions. Do better guys cmon.
People are sick of corporate agendas. Break the rules the world is garbage. Experiment, at least history will have a record of our Experiments, that religious war dogs won't be able to erase.
You convinced me; that is what I will do early tomorrow morning.
This will never last
Especially without re bar, let alone not tying into the foundation. It’ll probably break down super easy come time to remove it, though! Lol
How u know
Please go prove ur theory
Yea it will last , 1 month .lol
@@reginaldwilliams3333it’s been proven time and time again. It’s a fact
Good job! But have my doubts on durability
Makes it look so easy 👍
Can you do a longer video with more explanation or do you have one?
that feeling when you put out the wood.
That's what she said
Cool!!
Only like half an inch will be dry the insides dry it's going to crack in the middle one day got to mit it with water
Looks great.
@evanplaytimes did you use concrete ( the type you mix with sand to make wet concrete mix) or ready mix please?
You could get them at home depot. There's no mix require, just poured.
Awesome job on the walkway! 👍🙌
Fantastic
Looks like it turned out good but id have still done a 4-2-1 mix ising 10mm stone.
never
Thank you.
Did you try it yet?
Wow dry I am so surprise
Bruh I give it like 6 months before your corners start chipping off
No rebar or wire reinforcement?
Its not a driveway.
Side walk doesnt need rebar or wire mesh. I'd be more worried that he dry poured it
lol. Rebar and wire mesh are the least of his worries. It’s a good thing he isn’t going to put anything substantial on this.
Mesh 😂😂 how about a pile of rocks and dust with a flimsy cement paint finish that will last 4 months 😢😂😂😂😂
Will do this soon...unfortunately im in Washington state lol
Then you can skip the watering in part. Nature will do it for you!
Don’t waste your time. You’ll be doing the job over again once it starts breaking apart.
Good ol sakrete!
Ok. Now you WET pour around the edges a 4 inch strip around. Add coke piiza and a few beers. All done.
Looks great. How did you get the sides to have the color difference. Smoothing it out?
I don't remember the name. Got it from home depot. Stainless steel with curve edge.
@@EvanPlayTimes That’s great. Thanks. So, basically it’s a tool that’s made for it
Edger
Trowel edger
How far apart in time do you wet it?@EvanPlayTimes
It’s weaker than a real pour, but if it’s just people walking on it all the time it will last for a long time. Now if you’re driving a car on it and parking a car… won’t last. But in this situation nothing wrong with it. 😂
How often u need to water it ? How many times?
Last year I did a slab and mixed the cement before pouring it. This year I'll be trying this method because I want to extend the concrete. This method seems to be much more easier.
Don't do it.
It's not recommended to do it this way.
This can be done properly in a mixer or even hand mixed in a large bucket using sand ,cement and chippings at the correct ratio and it'l be solid within 24 hours , this videos way is not going to be as strong plus it takes ages
I thought you need sand and stone mixed so the cement binds together for strength
What was the interval times for watering. Thanks
Not the video author, but most people do 1 hour between watering, but I did 30 min on mine and it seems fine to me. (I was in a hurry, and honestly didn't see the need to wait.)
@@connorpenrod397any feedback on how yours resulted. Any crack now a few months in?
@@d.a.4121 Nope, no problems at all. It's had ladders scraping across it and freezing temps with no issues. I'm about 6 months in. (I also did set-in-place bolts and those have held fine, as well.)
@@connorpenrod397 glad to hear! Cheers
Wow, that looks so easy.
Looks easy but the result is garbage.
@@recrdholdr why? It looked pretty good in that video.
2x4's rnt true 2inches by 4inches its 3 5/8inches by 1 3/4inches remember that when making forms
Why is that?
It seems like the original way of wetting it first worked too well that it needed an alternative that is less effective
I need to build a concrete base so that I can put a shed on top of it. I can't afford thousands of dollars to pay someone. Is dry concrete good for what I need to do? I have zero experience with concrete, but I'm a fast learner and I can build stuff, especially working with wood. Thanks in advance.
From what I've seen I need to first put gravel underneath before pouring concrete. One other question, if I have some thin metal rods, can I put them half way (depth wise) in the concrete so it can last longer?
Only if it's the will of buttman
I gotta do the same thing soon, how did yours turn out???
Have to make sure your base rock layer is compacted properly for anything that will have weight on it at all. Best to hire someone that knows what they're doing rather than put the money out to have it mess up on you and have to put more money out to have it properly done.
What type of shed a mower shed that weighs a few hundred kgs or a car shed? Watch Cajun country dry poor slab they did a 1yr test on and it's held up better then wet slab as you only add enough water to set the concrete. Much easier to finish dry aswell as your not fighting against the clock and sticky wet Crete. Well compacted gravel layer wood form and enough sacks to fill the hole. Plus some rebar for long life.
I heard something about PSI when working with dry concrete versus wet, I recommend you read the bag of concrete, maybe it will tell you the PSI difference, because it might not be able to withhold the weight of the shed
Looks great! I'm going to do the same.
Make sure you do a top layer of cement powder and sand, not the stuff with the gravel in it. When you screed it, the gravel won't cause an issue. Thank me later. I'm going to do a dry pour in the next few weeks
@@jakefriesenjake Thank you! I got this message after the fact. We tried our first paver. I noticed there was a lot of gravel even after screeding the Quikrete mix. My dry pour came out rough on top. My son and I will add mortar (cement and sand) on top tomorrow to smooth it out more. Hopefully it works. It was our 1st try.
@@YvetteR-ep2hc they make specialty concrete resurfacing concrete mix, probably be better off with that.
Also, look up "white washing" or "painting with portland". That is also a great way to make old concrete look alot better. Many options.
I did a small test sample using dry pour today. It's been like 8 hours already and it is not setting up nearly as good as I would like it too. Maybe it will be better in the morning
@@jakefriesenjake Hi! Thanks for all the advice. After much research, my son and I decided to try the Quikrete sand topping mix to fix our paver. It worked out well. Our paver is now smooth and looks so much better than before. It's totally trial and error. We are dong another paver tomorrow with Quikrete dry pour and we'll see how it turns out. We just have to remember to screed the surface better this time. Hopefully it won't give us the gravel results we had with the 1st one.
@@YvetteR-ep2hc nice. The sand topping Mix does have some very very tiny gravel in it, it's not pure sand and cement powder.
Look at you! Amazing job
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those who are afraid to try or think that it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You have to be patient and add design on the edges before watering it down.
Can I do this on a concrete floor that is not leveled? Would I need to put some sort of bonding agent? This is inside a shed so it’s not a problem of wetting the floor.
Also, would it need to be a certain thickness? How many bags of cement for a 19x24’ floor? TIA!
Do not do this.
Dry pouring has been debunked, not as good as mixing and pouring
If he mixed the bags with stones and sand then he may have enough to do the whole footpath not just 2m
Great job
Would it not be cheaper to do a sand/cement mix instead of using pure cement?
The bags come with a mixture of rock gravel, sand and cement. Is also stronger than just cement and sand. This is probably the easiest route.
But a bag in Uk costs £10.
How is holding now?
Surely you use more cement doing it this way
Here for the “know it alls and humble opinions.”
Is it really this simple?
No
If you want a slab that will last a year, yes. But if you want something permanent, this video is nowhere close to correct.
i mean yea for foot traffic... i would not build on that.
No rebar?
how much time in between water spray?
Usually an hour
Dude as if dry pouring isn't already bad enough you didn't even put rebar on it. That thing gonna crack 100% not even year after you made it.
A lot of improvements have gone into the formulations since the requirement of rebar installation. Fiberglass for instance, and pea gravel might not be seen in the mixture. Also, how many overweight (eg earthmoving tractors) vehicles will be driving on it?
@@craigmatheson2736 it doesn't even need to have anything driving over it, dry pouring will always resulted in much much sooner cracking when the soil settled, temperature changes, and water freezing under or inside of the concrete.
Back in engineering schools we were thought how laughably bad dry poured concrete is compared to any wet poured concrete. Concrete need water to solidified, not just because you have to make it wet, the water inside the concrete literally become part of the concrete chemically and molecularly. All the water doesn't just evaporated when you think it's dry.
I dont know why everyone thinks this but 4 inch side walk doesnt need wire mesh or rebar. It will hold just fine it's just for walking on.
How long between the watering?
I need this info too
1 hour between the first and second mist and 2 hours after the 2 mist and 1 hour between each showers and after the last shower let it set 24 hours
@@shermantarwater1826YOU SOUND LIKE TITO ORTIZ 😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 what a mess, you were better off with trap rock.loose 😅😅😅
It’ll take more time removing it later than mixing it now
Looks good but won't last long , no mesh unmixed concrete
Do you know this by experience?
@@jgallegos8727 yep
@jasonoleg3253 No you don't
@@tibbytx1💀
@@jgallegos8727Ofcourse he does….40 years experience 😂😂😂😂😂
How do you know how much water to add when you use the shpwer setting?
Start with a light mist twice within 10 minutes and hose it down lightly. Request throughout the day. You'll be fine. I'm afraid to do it first, but hey, it works. Cajun Country got me started on the project, so check them out if you need more help. I'm doing it my way. Both of my sidewalks are awesome, and I have no complaints.
@@EvanPlayTimes thanks
I was afraid of turning it into mud.
Wait so we can just lay stuff then wet it?
Its not recommended.
wifes knife jahhaha i do the same
Unfortunately this is not a good idea ..... not strong and won't last ......
If you want weaker concrete do it this way. Just mix that Sh** up
If you put minimal effort into concrete, you'll get minimal results.
The same can be said about your life
Stay Goggins
I feel like there’s so much more too it then just that. The video has been skipped
Thank you for not using the ‘ dry pour’ method
Don't buy Chinese
Will it last?
Shit work !
😂 noooo
Horrible. Lazy. Wont last.
Not as strong as wet pour.
It’s probably still sandy in the middle bad idea
Cement isn’t “water tight” without a specific sealant or coating on it so rain or hose water will seep through. It will just take a while.
@jimdob6528 it absolutely is otherwise you wouldn't ever see puddles on top of concrete after it cures. It's the mix between the heavy and fine aggregate as well as the Portland that makes cement what it is. If there's air pockets internally then it wasn't done properly.
Yeah i like this but I was thinking I might add extra acetate to it for what I'm doing.
This will not last. Full stop.
Dry pour its stupid. Just mix it properly and pour it.
Dry pour is so much easier, you do lose about 25% of it's strength. But for your average joe, dry pour is way easier then wet pour.
@@mclovinfuddpucker I did a couple of dry pours last spring. So far they are fine. It’s not like the chemical curing process is any different between a dry pour and wet pour.
This is crap that will not last don’t do this dry concrete it will cost you your money to fix later. And if you are selling then the new owner will havto replace it all. This is for people that are intermediated about doing concrete because thy are scared not confident in finishing the concrete off before it drys.
Well then don’t do it get a pro or someone that is not scared 😱 anyway this is a junk job don’t do it I am a General contractor licensed for 10 years with 25 years experience. Even when I was a newborn construction worker back in 1999 I still would not do this dry concrete junk. Please don’t do this 😢
Dry pour is such a bad idea.
Ask yourself how many dry poor damns were built and who would want to live under one????????
Still needs rebar for longevity
No it doesn’t. Rebar isn’t even used on driveways. Wire mesh instead for driveways and nothing is used on sidewalks bc theres no vehicle traffic. They prepped with crusher run & coarse aggregate. Absolutely nothing wrong w this and rebar or wire mesh would have been a total waste
Yeah no, it's gonna crack in under 5 years@@JK-cn5fy
This video should be illegal😂
How can that possibly work, why not just mix it properly in the 1st place?
Significantly more work (or cost if you hire it out)
To get the same quality finish takes a lot of skill with wet cement. (I am guessing, never saw dry cement "poured" before "in real life.") On a dry pour you can endlessly keep sweeping and smoothing till it looks perfect. No time limit before it sets up.
@@plethoraOFtrivia not really, you can buy a mixer at harbor freight or use a wheel barrow. An ugly job would be better than dry pour. It's very brittle and half the strength. You can literally break it apart with your fingers. It will look very old easily.
@@plethoraOFtriviaYou can get this finish in wet concrete with a broom and an edger. No hate to the video poster at all, im not trying to talk down about anyones work at all, and its good to see families working together and tackling things themselves. The fact is though that this finish is very sandy and will deteriorate quickly. It looks like something that was bull floated and broomed, meaning it doesnt take a lot of trowel work to get a finish like this. A handy person with a couple hand tools could probably get a finish that looks like this or better, with the benefit of a denser surface and a stronger slab overall. Again, not trying to be mean at all, just speaking from my experience of not only finishing but teaching people how to finish and seeing how these skills are picked up. Some things in concrete are very difficult and take a lot of skill. I wouldnt say this is one of them. A broom finished 3x5 pad like this is about the easiest starter project you can take on to learn basic skills
Lol enjoy it for 1 month before it starts falling apart😂
3rd shower? 🚿 🛁 just leave, hone one it.
YES SHOWER IT A LOT CUS ITS DIRTY
Cutting corners will bite you in the ass every time! Not hating, just saying! If it works for you, who cares what people say! You, do you!
I call bs on this shit
Don't do it... it makes a weak, very fragile finished product. I appreciate innovation, but you are simply misusing a product that was never made to be used this way. Pour it wet, but not too wet, and you will have a strong solid product. If you are using pre mixed bag concrete, I'd recommend a little extra Portland cement.
This is not real
What a waste of time and money
WTF is this
Just why… there’s a reason to do it the correct way and then there’s these vids that won’t stop telling people how to try every other possible way to reach the same result…. But hey it’s not my time or money being wasted so I guess good job on a 1-2 yr diy special.
If it's probably $10,000 or whatever for commercial job versus $200 of bagged concrete, that's a no brainer.
This looks like the same result or better and less work
I thought the same thing but after watching a few strength tests I think it’s fine for small pads if you do it right.
@@Crunchifyable2Definitely a no Brainer. Unless you're the one making the 10k. 😂 These guys worried a lot about a man using his own time and money.
Learn how to do concrete before attempting it, dry poring makes it weak as hell
This method is futile and won't last, plenty of UA-cam videos on this very subject. Often in construction these type of quick easy methods are just plain dumb, if the method has worked for years it don't need a reinventing 😂
Don't do this
How do you know if waterr will ever get into the thick of the slab?
Cement isn’t “water tight” without a specific sealant or coating on it so rain or hose water will seep through. It will just take a while.
Concrete bags inside a shed will set like a rock from the moisture in the air alone. I got 10 at home that I can barely use without bashing with a sledge hammer first. And concrete mix has dehydrated lime that socks in plenty of mousiture and they are flooding the slab with water as it soaks in. The only reason they mist the top first is to set the texture they want before heavy watering.
I see you used an edger tool, did you use it while still in powder form or did you use after the first sprinkle session?
Don't ask . Dry pour 🫗 is a silly 😂thing
That’s ugly surface