Nice description of the work. I always remove the fill plug first, just in case there is a problem with the threads. It also lets the oil drain easier.
Hi Steve, nice video i've swapped out the gear and differential screw and now i use two with strong magnet (us made)...It's unbelievable what they fish out. With magnet is a good protection like a little filter and you have control over wear. Nice work Steve 😀
Have a 67 MGB and the 3 syncro trans, has the filler plug under the center hump carpet with a dip stick. I use 20W 50 motor oil and third quart of Lucus stabilizer.
This just blows my mind. I have always been told to use 30W or 20/50W engine oil in my bugeye transmission. But thanks to your video I did my own research and of course you knew exactly what you were talking about. Not that I was questioning you :) . Thanks again to all the great vids. I might try Red Line MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 in my transmission. Need to replace the rear seal first though.
@steve: best to always remove the filler plug first, before letting out the oil. You'll never know. For the rear axle: is the GL4 oil suitable for hypoid axles?
When I was studying in an automobile transport university, I was told that yeah, definitely, sulfuric and phosphorous additives in GL-5 react with non-ferrous metals in the gearbox, so GL-4 is a better option. However, for the rear axle and the hypoid inside, which always works in a kind of friction and slipping manner (due to the design), those additives are must-have. They help oil withstand extreme contact pressure and enhance wear-resistance. And obviously, we don't have brass/bronze synchros in a rear axle. To be more accurate, these additives are not only must-have, they are mandatory for somewhat normal final drive lifespan. So GL-4 in the hypoid rear axle is clearly a "no" (for me, at least) (P.S.: for FWD cars with the cylindrical gear final drive and differential in the same housing with the gearbox, GL-4 is a recommended choice, since the final drive isn't hypoid)
Normally the 4 synchro gearboxes have steel synchro's and wont be affected by the sulfur in the oil. Nevertheless I would not risk it as the shifter forks are brass. If you have an overdrive gearbox the best oil would be a non-detergent oil as the detergents can affect the operation of the overdrive. SAE 30 non-detergent oil works best for an overdrive gearbox (as recommended in the workshop manual). I enjoyed all the MGB video's, great job!
It's easy to get caught out on the viscosity numbers difference between engine and gear oils if you don't know about that. I use Penrite vintage and classic oils in my cars. It's easy to find in NZ as it's Australian.
very informative i do just wonder why the manufacturers did not make removable plates in floor plans with the filler ports at the top of the diff or gear box
19mm spanner on an MGB? Do you have another gearbox installed? Ie 5 speed Japanese. Great video, never heard of engine oil in gearbox before. Your videos are informative. Kind regards
Steve there's something I don't understand. You said 20 w50 and 75w90 vescosity are the same. How so. I am lost shem😳 Your greatest follower MBS Moshitoa south Africa
@@D3Sshooter but Steve if that is the case then why don't they use different thing like pounds and kilogrammes not W something which is the same. That confuses shem
Only thing I might add is to make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the oil … you sure don’t want to drain all the old oil then find out the fill plug is stripped or seized!
In case it wasn't mentioned in another comment you never ever do the drain plug first you always do the fill plug first and then the drain plug second.
Brother just leave the channel if you feel so. We learn and we learned a lot from Steve. Don't annoy us please. We are concerned about the content not graphics. MBS Moshitoa south Africa
Nice description of the work. I always remove the fill plug first, just in case there is a problem with the threads. It also lets the oil drain easier.
Great tip!
Excellently explained & so cleanly done, good job.
Great video Steve and thanks for telling us about the difference in the oils viscosity that I wasn’t aware of
My pleasure
Hi Steve, nice video i've swapped out the gear and differential screw and now i use two with strong magnet (us made)...It's unbelievable what they fish out. With magnet is a good protection like a little filter and you have control over wear. Nice work Steve 😀
That is indeed a good method to attrack metal particles,,,
Have a 67 MGB and the 3 syncro trans, has the filler plug under the center hump carpet with a dip stick. I use 20W 50 motor oil and third quart of Lucus stabilizer.
works good
This just blows my mind. I have always been told to use 30W or 20/50W engine oil in my bugeye transmission. But thanks to your video I did my own research and of course you knew exactly what you were talking about. Not that I was questioning you :) . Thanks again to all the great vids. I might try Red Line MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 in my transmission. Need to replace the rear seal first though.
Good practical advice, Steve.
Glad you think so!
@steve: best to always remove the filler plug first, before letting out the oil. You'll never know.
For the rear axle: is the GL4 oil suitable for hypoid axles?
Indeed, and yes as long as you use the right density (SAE)
When I was studying in an automobile transport university, I was told that yeah, definitely, sulfuric and phosphorous additives in GL-5 react with non-ferrous metals in the gearbox, so GL-4 is a better option. However, for the rear axle and the hypoid inside, which always works in a kind of friction and slipping manner (due to the design), those additives are must-have. They help oil withstand extreme contact pressure and enhance wear-resistance. And obviously, we don't have brass/bronze synchros in a rear axle. To be more accurate, these additives are not only must-have, they are mandatory for somewhat normal final drive lifespan. So GL-4 in the hypoid rear axle is clearly a "no" (for me, at least)
(P.S.: for FWD cars with the cylindrical gear final drive and differential in the same housing with the gearbox, GL-4 is a recommended choice, since the final drive isn't hypoid)
Normally the 4 synchro gearboxes have steel synchro's and wont be affected by the sulfur in the oil. Nevertheless I would not risk it as the shifter forks are brass. If you have an overdrive gearbox the best oil would be a non-detergent oil as the detergents can affect the operation of the overdrive. SAE 30 non-detergent oil works best for an overdrive gearbox (as recommended in the workshop manual). I enjoyed all the MGB video's, great job!
Indeed Sulfer and phosphor additives will affect all yellow metals, thus also brass
Thanks Steve ..Great video ..jus a question if I was to turn the prop how much end 'play' should the diff have (ive got the banjo type on my 1966 MGB)
It's easy to get caught out on the viscosity numbers difference between engine and gear oils if you don't know about that. I use Penrite vintage and classic oils in my cars. It's easy to find in NZ as it's Australian.
TXS
Same Slave as Rover P6, could you show how to bleed properly and the push-rod settings? Cheers Steve.
Love your work 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice job 👍 Steve. Cheers
Thanks 👍
very informative i do just wonder why the manufacturers did not make removable plates in floor plans with the filler ports at the top of the diff or gear box
Its a common issue with so many cars, where designers forget about maintainability access
Redline MT90 here in USA !! Warm up the diff oil in hot water? Want to see how your rear sway bar is connected/mtd.
Just room temperature, 25 C That rear sway bar is connected in a special
Hi Steve, what about the overdrive on my GT? Would the GL4 gear oil be appropriate? Thanks!
I would say so, however if you drive a standard MGB, just use engine oil 20w50.. that is what they were build for..
Thanks for a speedy reply! Just a stage 2 head, tubular exhaust manifold, K and Ns etc. I use Miller’s 20:50 mineral. All the best!
Nice intro Steve!
Thanks!
I have the 70-71 4 speed overdrive gearbox that has the painfull gearbox fillpoint. Its behind the center console in the floor...
I'm really wondering what happened to old rusty, were there any more videos on the finishing
Geoffrey, its still here and will be back .... just a bit to cold to work on bare metal for the moment
I have always used mono grade oil 30w...used in Bridge & Stratton motor's...due to overdrive.
I see\
19mm spanner on an MGB? Do you have another gearbox installed? Ie 5 speed Japanese. Great video, never heard of engine oil in gearbox before. Your videos are informative. Kind regards
Yes and yes
Steve there's something I don't understand. You said 20 w50 and 75w90 vescosity are the same. How so. I am lost shem😳
Your greatest follower
MBS Moshitoa south Africa
That is because they are using different methods to measure but the viscosity is the same,,, Its like pounds and kilograms,,,,
@@D3Sshooter but Steve if that is the case then why don't they use different thing like pounds and kilogrammes not W something which is the same. That confuses shem
👍
I read it's 6 pints to fill mgb gearbox?
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Only thing I might add is to make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the oil … you sure don’t want to drain all the old oil then find out the fill plug is stripped or seized!
In case it wasn't mentioned in another comment you never ever do the drain plug first you always do the fill plug first and then the drain plug second.
yes
Two thumbs down on the snarky intro graphics. (I'll hit the like button anyway)
I concur ! Goofy intro
Brother just leave the channel if you feel so. We learn and we learned a lot from Steve. Don't annoy us please. We are concerned about the content not graphics.
MBS Moshitoa south Africa