Thanks for the info. I am currently in the process of designing a cosmetic kit for the hasbro pack. All metal fittings that are minimally invasive. So no drilling or cutting. Everything is bolt on or snap fit.
This is exactly why I haven’t even pulled mine out of the box yet. I’m waiting to see the best mods and idea’s from people on here before I do anything to mine. There’s so many good channels like yours with ideas but there’s a few bad ones around too.
I’ve totally re-done mine. Made it as screen accurate as possible, changing all of the plastic wires and rubber tubes and connectors. Total repaint with flat and textured paints. Getting ready to do final weathering now.
Adam put a hex cap screw beside the dale resistor, I found an old one in my van attached to a boiler pump and it was already rusted and perfect for the job
The screws definetly stand out as looking too brand spankin new. I'm lazy and don't want to do too many permanent changes so I just sprayed a couple of em with knockoff streaks n tips like I did the replacement yellow flexo wire wrap. Dunno what it'll look like when or if it wears off.
If you have the “Ghostbusters Afterlife; The Art and Making of the Movie” book.., there’s a picture (on page 78) of Phoebe with a Proton Pack on a table. Although, we know there’s multiple Packs used during filming, the Pack in the picture represents the version Haslab created for us (with removable Cyclotron cap and N-Filter). At any rate, in the picture, I noticed the 4 ‘Pan Head’ screws on the bottom of the Proton Pack are used WITHOUT washers. So, in reality…, our Packs are more inline with the Pack in that photograph because, that Pack shows the inner mechanisms (as ours does) of the Cyclotron that Phoebe repairs.
I used the pics from Adam savage. He took DETAILED pics of EVERY angle and part or the screen used pack. The book’s pack is different as there were changes before final filming.
Bolt Depot (online) has been my friend :) I got some panhead machine screws for the bumper sides, 1", so they should go into those mounting slides under the bumper ends. All the socket cap bolts are PRICEY at the hardware store, and Bolt Depot has them for a fraction of the price. I'm replacing all the molded-in ones. I'm also going to print a new heat sink for the right side and put it on with short button heads. I'd like to replace those "copper" wires that go into the base of the Clippard, but I can't find the right tiny terminal lugs. You need a Dremel, dude!!
I just added the proper screws in the same locations on my Hasbro Proton Pack yesterday. Except, ALL of my screws are SCREWED into place. Even when I enlarged holes with the drill, I kept the holes small enough for the screw to hold itself in place (without glue).
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy By the way, when standing directly in front of the Proton Pack (look to the left), you’ll see the shiny circular door pin that allows the side door on the Power Cell to fold down. Seeing that shiny little pin annoyed the heck out of me!! So, I painted it black. You may (or, may not) want to paint yours, too.
@@ready-to-believe I’m sorry for the late reply. For the Bumper, I used Stainless Steel “Pan Phillips” head sheet metal screws (12 x 1/2) purchased at Lowe’s hardware store. For the bottom of the actual Proton Pack, I used Stainless Steel “Pan Phillips” head sheet metal screws (14 x 3/4) purchased at Lowe’s hardware store.
Had problems getting some of the strain reliefs fit properly and making and replacing the afterlife chip on the right side of the pack. Biggest trouble I had was the brass connector on the side of the cyclotron cover. Not much room in there and had to cut down the threads on the fitting pretty far.
When I changed the Clippard for a real one, it took me way longer than I imagined. I was definitely nervous about having to cut into it but I had no choice in the end. There may be a thing or two I might do that involves some cutting but I'm very hesitant to do so again after the Clippard experience. For the Clippard I had to carefully cut the plastic posts, trying not to damage the pack nor the fake copper wires. Then I tried to drill holes into it to put the screws I had in but I didn't realize that unlike the wand that just has a thin piece of plastic and nothing else, the pack has very long posts. The hole I made ended up being too deep, so the screw just floated around. I had to open the pack from the back, cut the posts then make a 2nd hold to fit the other screw. Once I had both holes, I put the Clippard and the screws in and used nuts to hold it in place. It looks great now.... but it sure made me sweat.
Do yourselves a favor and use the proper drill size for the screws you're using. Also, for my socket cap screws I got the right size tap and everything will fit really securely like it was factory made. Do it once, do it right
@@mr.e.484 I just ordered a GB2 ribbon cable, but I'm not sure how I'll be able to install it. The ribbon cable clip harness is riveted together and I'm not confident I can take it apart without damaging it. Having another solution that's real metal and can still clip in, preserving the alarm play function, and accept a new ribbon cable would be awesome.
@@pwnd1138 It actually not as difficult to take apart as you think. All you need to do is heat up the steel pins just enuff to soften the plastic then pry/pop apart. Ya the whole thing will be metal except for the clips. I just did it. Literally . lol the pins are super short. I'll post vid in few minutes. Ok vid's up.
I bought mine at Universal Studios Orlando, you can get it from Amazon: www.amazon.com/Ripple-Junction-Ghostbusters-Ghost-Heather/dp/B00U0HLNHC/ref=asc_df_B00U0HLNHC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=323088024150&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5575363724713048366&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027208&hvtargid=pla-607798851076&psc=1
Thanks for the info. I am currently in the process of designing a cosmetic kit for the hasbro pack. All metal fittings that are minimally invasive. So no drilling or cutting. Everything is bolt on or snap fit.
Will you be selling these kits?
@@stevenvaughan1572
Thats the plan.
Sweet let us know of its already available!
This is exactly why I haven’t even pulled mine out of the box yet. I’m waiting to see the best mods and idea’s from people on here before I do anything to mine. There’s so many good channels like yours with ideas but there’s a few bad ones around too.
I’ve totally re-done mine. Made it as screen accurate as possible, changing all of the plastic wires and rubber tubes and connectors. Total repaint with flat and textured paints. Getting ready to do final weathering now.
I really appreciate you indicating which drill bits to use. Thanks for sharing.
Adam put a hex cap screw beside the dale resistor, I found an old one in my van attached to a boiler pump and it was already rusted and perfect for the job
Thanks for the info. However, we would've loved to have a detailed list with links about the screws and where to obtain them.
The screws definetly stand out as looking too brand spankin new. I'm lazy and don't want to do too many permanent changes so I just sprayed a couple of em with knockoff streaks n tips like I did the replacement yellow flexo wire wrap. Dunno what it'll look like when or if it wears off.
If you have the “Ghostbusters Afterlife; The Art and Making of the Movie” book.., there’s a picture (on page 78) of Phoebe with a Proton Pack on a table. Although, we know there’s multiple Packs used during filming, the Pack in the picture represents the version Haslab created for us (with removable Cyclotron cap and N-Filter).
At any rate, in the picture, I noticed the 4 ‘Pan Head’ screws on the bottom of the Proton Pack are used WITHOUT washers. So, in reality…, our Packs are more inline with the Pack in that photograph because, that Pack shows the inner mechanisms (as ours does) of the Cyclotron that Phoebe repairs.
I used the pics from Adam savage. He took DETAILED pics of EVERY angle and part or the screen used pack. The book’s pack is different as there were changes before final filming.
Bolt Depot (online) has been my friend :) I got some panhead machine screws for the bumper sides, 1", so they should go into those mounting slides under the bumper ends. All the socket cap bolts are PRICEY at the hardware store, and Bolt Depot has them for a fraction of the price. I'm replacing all the molded-in ones. I'm also going to print a new heat sink for the right side and put it on with short button heads. I'd like to replace those "copper" wires that go into the base of the Clippard, but I can't find the right tiny terminal lugs.
You need a Dremel, dude!!
P clamp is 1-1/4 inch
I just added the proper screws in the same locations on my Hasbro Proton Pack yesterday. Except, ALL of my screws are SCREWED into place. Even when I enlarged holes with the drill, I kept the holes small enough for the screw to hold itself in place (without glue).
Honestly I wish I had done the same.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy By the way, when standing directly in front of the Proton Pack (look to the left), you’ll see the shiny circular door pin that allows the side door on the Power Cell to fold down. Seeing that shiny little pin annoyed the heck out of me!! So, I painted it black. You may (or, may not) want to paint yours, too.
That’ll definitely be addressed when I weather it. Saving that for last.
What screw did you use/drill bit?
@@ready-to-believe I’m sorry for the late reply. For the Bumper, I used Stainless Steel “Pan Phillips” head sheet metal screws (12 x 1/2) purchased at Lowe’s hardware store.
For the bottom of the actual Proton Pack, I used Stainless Steel “Pan Phillips” head sheet metal screws (14 x 3/4) purchased at Lowe’s hardware store.
FYI, I think you still have the plastic cover on your N filter. That can come off unless you want it that way.
I had no idea, thanks!
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy haha apparently you're not the only 1. I just looked at mine and yup plastic around the N filter. Womp womp 🤣
Cool
Had problems getting some of the strain reliefs fit properly and making and replacing the afterlife chip on the right side of the pack. Biggest trouble I had was the brass connector on the side of the cyclotron cover. Not much room in there and had to cut down the threads on the fitting pretty far.
When I changed the Clippard for a real one, it took me way longer than I imagined. I was definitely nervous about having to cut into it but I had no choice in the end. There may be a thing or two I might do that involves some cutting but I'm very hesitant to do so again after the Clippard experience. For the Clippard I had to carefully cut the plastic posts, trying not to damage the pack nor the fake copper wires. Then I tried to drill holes into it to put the screws I had in but I didn't realize that unlike the wand that just has a thin piece of plastic and nothing else, the pack has very long posts. The hole I made ended up being too deep, so the screw just floated around. I had to open the pack from the back, cut the posts then make a 2nd hold to fit the other screw. Once I had both holes, I put the Clippard and the screws in and used nuts to hold it in place. It looks great now.... but it sure made me sweat.
It can be nerve racking for sure. I held my breath a few times today.
Hey dude. How positive are you that the pan head screws are 1/4-20's? Adam Savage used 10-24's. I can't find the official size anywhere.
I’ve always used this as my reference:
www.gbfans.com/wiki/Proton_Pack_Hardware
Do yourselves a favor and use the proper drill size for the screws you're using. Also, for my socket cap screws I got the right size tap and everything will fit really securely like it was factory made. Do it once, do it right
I have noticed this community wide, why don't Ghostbusters fans who will spend thousands on building a custom pack, buy some decent tools!
Because we are broke from buying pack parts!
Have you thought about replacing that plastic clip that holds the ribbon cable for an actual metal one?
I am in the process of designing a clip that will accept the real cable and still clip on like the hasbro one.
@@mr.e.484 I just ordered a GB2 ribbon cable, but I'm not sure how I'll be able to install it. The ribbon cable clip harness is riveted together and I'm not confident I can take it apart without damaging it. Having another solution that's real metal and can still clip in, preserving the alarm play function, and accept a new ribbon cable would be awesome.
@@pwnd1138
It actually not as difficult to take apart as you think. All you need to do is heat up the steel pins just enuff to soften the plastic then pry/pop apart. Ya the whole thing will be metal except for the clips.
I just did it. Literally . lol the pins are super short. I'll post vid in few minutes. Ok vid's up.
@@mr.e.484 I'd still be very hesitant to do that, I wish Hasbro used screws instead.
@@pwnd1138
same here.
Before watching this video… I knew the bumper would give more trouble. I did this myself but took my time to drill and tap 1/4-20 3/8” screws.
Did you use 1/4-20 3/8 screws instead of what was used in the video?
@@ready-to-believe Yes
What is the measurements of the washer you used 1/4.
I also think that some washers used are brass, not steel. Some are steel. Does anyone have an opinion on this?
Man I’m distracted by that hat! Where did you get it?
I bought mine at Universal Studios Orlando, you can get it from Amazon:
www.amazon.com/Ripple-Junction-Ghostbusters-Ghost-Heather/dp/B00U0HLNHC/ref=asc_df_B00U0HLNHC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=323088024150&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5575363724713048366&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027208&hvtargid=pla-607798851076&psc=1
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy THANKS!