wanted to take a moment to express my sincere appreciation for your outstanding work on your UA-cam channel dedicated to auto technician expertise. Your content has been a valuable resource for car enthusiasts like myself, and I wanted to convey my gratitude for your efforts in sharing your knowledge and insights. Your dedication to producing high-quality content and your passion for all things automotive shine through in every video you create. Your ability to break down complex concepts into easy-to-understand explanations is truly commendable.
That was a great diagnosis. You have become one of my favorite guys to watch. You are very methodical and explain everything very well so that it's easy to understand. Great job as usual.
That was awesome Jake! I definitely did not see that coming. Thanks for the tip on the wake up voltage. Your techniques of troubleshooting are outstanding and are to be recognized for sure!
It’s great information and tips I searched and finally found that test light after your old Jeep video. Thanks for teaching those of us that are old school learning the new . 👊🏻👍🏻
Another excellent diagnostic video. Your grasp of the electrical is as good as it gets. Thanks for teaching everyone who watches your videos. You help make everyone better techs.
Such a great video. You are truly great at what you do. Seeing you find that broken wire was super satisfying. Keep the videos coming. I can’t get enough.
Jake, AKA Sherlock, nice find! Thanks for taking us along. Once again, your understanding of operation, experience in knowing what happens to a CAN signal when shorted or open, enabled you to quickly find the problem. Nice job man. Thanks for sharing.
Great vid. Subscribed. Loved the high quality production: tripod or static shots, high quality video capture from tools and PC. Overlay video with transparency is a nice effect. So much better than Ivan / Pine hollow handheld video which often has glare or makes me dizzy with all the movement. Nice explanation and thought process. Minor suggestions: zoom in on PC all data screens, it’s hard to see. And freeze frame and zoom in on the pico scope captures. Great stuff, and look forward to seeing more electrical diagnostics!
I did try to pause and zoom in on my tablet when you were showing the wiring diagram, and the text was blurry. 😀 It’s all good. You’re doing a great job, it’s high quality. You’re using OBS, which isn’t easy to learn. Kept it up! Looking forward to more content!
Absolutely great video! Your procedure for diagnosing can lines is top notch! Being able to look at the waveform, understanding it and having direction is where we need to be as technicians. I’ve struggled w/can. Using the math channel clears it up a bunch and sometimes I overlook. Thank you for the taking the time and sharing with us!
BMW with a Christmas dash :-) Great thinking on the faulty CAN low line - a termination resistor will feed the signal back into the broken line! Excellent fault finding and repair, Jake!
As always a great video. I’m glad you mentioned the tools and kind enough to give the part # I could not find it on Amazon or eBay as a leaner I want the pro tools hopefully make the difference to me lol
Nicely done, well explained the path of diagnostics utilizing available diagrams etc. you have a lot of patience even at work I don’t have the patience to show the younger ones. Most of the problems I see with them is they can’t read wiring diagrams. I will just tell them all to watch your videos makes it easier in me 😂 great work!
@@autodiagyt I hope so then I won’t get so frustrated trying to explain things to them. I will just pull up one of your videos and tell them to watch it lol
You will never be able to accurately diagnose without knowing how to read a wiring diagram! IMHO that is a basic, necessary skill. Like trying to read a book in a language you don't speak.
I particularly liked this one Jake! Although, the jump to the conclusion regarding the termination resistor in the module and the fact it was the CAN L wire specifically lost me... my problem, not yours lol. Thanks for sharing.
Great video and diagnosis. In the right shop the parts cannon would have been unleashed and thousands of dollars worth of unnecessary aftermarket parts installed that would have build in a bunch of new faults.
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully UA-cam pays well. I try and watch all the videos. I'm sure you have been asked this before but can you share your background? Have you worked at a shop or dealer and decided to go down the diag path?
Ever since you made that short reel about the CAN having a rough signal, I was waiting for this video. Well worth the wait. I have 1 question tho. How did you bring the ABS CAN Low back into play when you back probed the connector. Did you run another wire to prove there was a break or what? Thanks!
man that was a good one. and to be fair i did call it once i see the signal when you disconnected the abs then connected it back up . because i know bmw put the one resistor in the esp /abs least the on the x serious. i thought that’s lost can low . because when you plugged it back in you could see it comming back through the resistor . one of the exact reasons i got me a scope . although technically you could have worked that out with a metre measuring voltage on the bus i guess but were us the fun in that 🤪🤪🤪
@@autodiagyt yes indeed have the scope . just have no clue what i am looking at 🤣🤣🤣 all the gear and no idea 🤣🤣🤣🤣 . that’s not quite true i do have some idea and i have around 300 of exactly the same car to look at around me so have been taking a few signals of good cars for the bank so can compare if i get a bad one 👍
You have to be careful about using a 10 Amp bulb because you may blow a fuse on inrush, and the fault you are looking for is a high resistance fault (relative to the rated current) and will be easily detected with just a 2 Amp test load when used with a high resolution DMM like your Fluke 87V. The smallest fuse usually found in the fuse box is usually 3 Amps, so a 2 Amp test load should never blow a fuse. You do not have to test at the circuit maximum rated current to see a high resistance fault when using the 87V. My 2 Amp and 1/2 Amp non-inductive power resistor test loads are very compact and I connect them like you do with stacking banana jacks at my DMM. However, they do not light up which is a feature some techs like so they can tell that the load is indeed in the circuit, which is a valid argument. What I do is attach my test loads first and then put the meter on resistance and verify I have continuity through my test load, then I attach my test leads and short them out to verify continuity through the test leads, then I switch to DC Volts am ready to test. I really hate filament bulbs. I hate the inrush current, I have how they dissipate heat (meaning they can burn you or something else like carpeting), I hate that they are made out of glass (which can break), I hate that no two are exactly the same, and I hate that they can burn out. But, let's look at it another way from an outsiders perspective, in that, you use a high end professional expensive Fluke 87V DMM ($450.00 to $500.00), why not use a professional dummy load to match? If you want an accurate test load that lights up you could use an LED control IC (like the TI TPS92621-Q1) and some high brightness LEDs which would enable you to very accurately control the load current without using a filament glass bulb (it could have many more features than the light bulb, like polarity detect (only lights up with proper polarity), reverse polarity protection (no current flow with reverse connection), minimum turn on voltage, etc.). You would have to make a little circuit board with devices on one side and then bond it to an aluminum heatsink. But it could be made very compact and could mount directly to the meter using PCB solder banana plugs (no more dealing with the spaghetti leads to the DMM). So, the overall packaging could be the width of your DMM, perhaps 3/4 inch thick and 1 inch tall. How the HSCAN node triggers on the CAN data, for traditional HSCAN automotive design (qualified parts, ESD rated, etc.) is really dependent on the HSCAN transceiver used in the design, although there is a lot of similarities between the different IC vendors (Infineon, NXP, etc.). For example the NXP TJA1043 actually uses a split termination approach using two 60 Ohm resistors and a capacitor. To understand exactly what the IC does can take a little reverse engineering, in that, many of the special features like controlled rise and fall time are proprietary. Who removed the harness polyester corrugated loom leaving bare wires?
My two automotive 12VDC dummy loads are 22 Ohm and 6.8 Ohm non-inductive power resistors each having a small aluminum heat sink. The 22 Ohm resistor is a good starting point to test fuse power feed source impedance. @@alexandrumardare828
@@saiautomotivemilton.7128 I’m usually only testing 10-20% of the wire capacity. That in most cases is enough to see what I need to in the voltage drop.
I check wake up circuits dynamically. Everything connected and use scope. I know people will say that your not loading the circuit. But the car is broke right now. If the wakeup signal is good while vehicle is broke then no reason to "load" it. Just my opinion.
Brilliant CAN diagnosis, Jake! OE diagrams for the win! That's awesome that you could narrow down the location of that broken wire just from scope captures and a wiring diagram. What a crazy spot to put a splice lol
Tutorial brilliant Thanks for sharing it SUBSTANTIAL Automotive Diagnostics & Programming From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 08:58am Good Morning 🙏 🌄
wanted to take a moment to express my sincere appreciation for your outstanding work on your UA-cam channel dedicated to auto technician expertise. Your content has been a valuable resource for car enthusiasts like myself, and I wanted to convey my gratitude for your efforts in sharing your knowledge and insights.
Your dedication to producing high-quality content and your passion for all things automotive shine through in every video you create. Your ability to break down complex concepts into easy-to-understand explanations is truly commendable.
A masterclass in diagnostics! Well done Jake!
None of the popular youtubers said you need a low current test light to test the excitation circuit thank you for showing this
That was a great diagnosis. You have become one of my favorite guys to watch. You are very methodical and explain everything very well so that it's easy to understand. Great job as usual.
That was awesome Jake! I definitely did not see that coming. Thanks for the tip on the wake up voltage.
Your techniques of troubleshooting are outstanding and are to be recognized for sure!
thanks for the education. that wakeup line low draw was good to know
Damn, you are good.
That was great, 10/10. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos.
It’s great information and tips I searched and finally found that test light after your old Jeep video. Thanks for teaching those of us that are old school learning the new . 👊🏻👍🏻
Great diag. Great tip on wake up signal testing. Excellent instructor! Thanks Jake!
Excellent diagnosis, even better explanation of your thought process.
I can’t thank you enough you make it look so easy how your find broken wires on many vehicles on the videos that you make .
Thank you so much sir
nice work Jake , great diag and step by step explanation , your awesome technician , good job , thanks
Master in action, great diagnostic process. Thanks a lot for sharing knowledge.
Very useful case study. I really enjoyed it.
Another excellent diagnostic video. Your grasp of the electrical is as good as it gets. Thanks for teaching everyone who watches your videos. You help make everyone better techs.
Such a great video. You are truly great at what you do. Seeing you find that broken wire was super satisfying. Keep the videos coming. I can’t get enough.
This was a great presentation, and an excellent diagnosis process. Well done!!
Jake, AKA Sherlock, nice find! Thanks for taking us along. Once again, your understanding of operation, experience in knowing what happens to a CAN signal when shorted or open, enabled you to quickly find the problem. Nice job man. Thanks for sharing.
Great video definitely on top of your game keep up the good work 🎉
Nice! love the test light check. Thanks as always!
Great vid. Subscribed. Loved the high quality production: tripod or static shots, high quality video capture from tools and PC. Overlay video with transparency is a nice effect. So much better than Ivan / Pine hollow handheld video which often has glare or makes me dizzy with all the movement. Nice explanation and thought process. Minor suggestions: zoom in on PC all data screens, it’s hard to see. And freeze frame and zoom in on the pico scope captures. Great stuff, and look forward to seeing more electrical diagnostics!
I did try to pause and zoom in on my tablet when you were showing the wiring diagram, and the text was blurry. 😀 It’s all good. You’re doing a great job, it’s high quality. You’re using OBS, which isn’t easy to learn. Kept it up! Looking forward to more content!
Fantastic teaching Jake!!!
Absolutely great video! Your procedure for diagnosing can lines is top notch!
Being able to look at the waveform, understanding it and having direction is where we need to be as technicians. I’ve struggled w/can. Using the math channel clears it up a bunch and sometimes I overlook.
Thank you for the taking the time and sharing with us!
Glad it was helpful!
BMW with a Christmas dash :-) Great thinking on the faulty CAN low line - a termination resistor will feed the signal back into the broken line! Excellent fault finding and repair, Jake!
As always a great video.
I’m glad you mentioned the tools and kind enough to give the part # I could not find it on Amazon or eBay as a leaner I want the pro tools hopefully make the difference to me lol
Good morning Jake. Geeat video as usual
Good dude, very helpful advice 💯
Excellent video! thanks for sharing.
Nice work Jake,
I worked on Mini's/bmw before , and now I learn something more how to test the terminal 15/"wake up" to you. Thank you
Super detective work very very helpful 👏 👌 👍🏿...can diag is easy with a scope ...very informative video 📹 👍🏿..cheers
Nicely done, well explained the path of diagnostics utilizing available diagrams etc. you have a lot of patience even at work I don’t have the patience to show the younger ones. Most of the problems I see with them is they can’t read wiring diagrams. I will just tell them all to watch your videos makes it easier in me 😂 great work!
@@autodiagyt I hope so then I won’t get so frustrated trying to explain things to them. I will just pull up one of your videos and tell them to watch it lol
You will never be able to accurately diagnose without knowing how to read a wiring diagram! IMHO that is a basic, necessary skill. Like trying to read a book in a language you don't speak.
@@gaad7938 100%. Maybe I was lucky. It came naturally to me
I just noticed you got a Honda b-series engine tattooed on your left arm and I've been watching your videos everyday for months 🤣 #HondaFam
nice diagnostic tks
nice find jake
Great job
Nice find.
Bad place for a broken wire, but definitely a challenge to locate the problem.
Very good fix!
Great. Thank you
I particularly liked this one Jake! Although, the jump to the conclusion regarding the termination resistor in the module and the fact it was the CAN L wire specifically lost me... my problem, not yours lol. Thanks for sharing.
Great video and diagnosis. In the right shop the parts cannon would have been unleashed and thousands of dollars worth of unnecessary aftermarket parts installed that would have build in a bunch of new faults.
The amount of data lines in that harness for brake is nuts
At the top of the page at 3:45 it says DSC is "Dynamic Stability Control"
Grasias
God damn Gump your a freaking genius 🤪
DSC= Dynamic Stability Control
Dumb stupid computer
Dreadfully simple complexity.
Perfect...👌
Awesome
WOW parts fitters at the dealer would have condemned the ABS module in a blink of an eye
U hero bro 💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully UA-cam pays well. I try and watch all the videos. I'm sure you have been asked this before but can you share your background? Have you worked at a shop or dealer and decided to go down the diag path?
Ever since you made that short reel about the CAN having a rough signal, I was waiting for this video.
Well worth the wait.
I have 1 question tho.
How did you bring the ABS CAN Low back into play when you back probed the connector.
Did you run another wire to prove there was a break or what? Thanks!
Love the bulbs on the meter great idea ,is that something you made yourself
Yes I did
Gotta link for your favorite test light Thanks 4 Sharing!
I bought mine recently from freedomracing but it looks like they are out of stock at the moment.
Thanks@@autodiagyt
@@topgun52 You can get notified when freedomracing gets the light back in stock.
I found both of them, YT won't let me post the links. I just googled "freedomracing" and "GM special tools" Thanks @@Mr2004MCSS
I found both of them, YT won't let me post the links. I just googled "freedomracing" and "GM special tools" Thanks
0:06 Lucky for you!
man that was a good one. and to be fair i did call it once i see the signal when you disconnected the abs then connected it back up . because i know bmw put the one resistor in the esp /abs least the on the x serious. i thought that’s lost can low . because when you plugged it back in you could see it comming back through the resistor . one of the exact reasons i got me a scope . although technically you could have worked that out with a metre measuring voltage on the bus i guess but were us the fun in that 🤪🤪🤪
@@autodiagyt yes indeed have the scope . just have no clue what i am looking at 🤣🤣🤣 all the gear and no idea 🤣🤣🤣🤣 . that’s not quite true i do have some idea and i have around 300 of exactly the same car to look at around me so have been taking a few signals of good cars for the bank so can compare if i get a bad one 👍
I've tried ordering that test light in the UK but it's not available here. 😢
If i might ask... how do you know which bulb amperage to use when testing a circuit? TY in advance from a self learner!
Dynamic stability control
Hi love your content,I have been looking on line for a J-35616-210 here in the uk only seem to be available in us.
Someone had said they found it in the UK. You might can get a local gm dealer order one for you
You are good #1.Do you have a shop in Toronto or someone you know i have the same problem with my x3.All lights are on including air beg
No sorry I don’t know anyone in your area.
👍👍😊
Where do you get those testing leads ?
You have to be careful about using a 10 Amp bulb because you may blow a fuse on inrush, and the fault you are looking for is a high resistance fault (relative to the rated current) and will be easily detected with just a 2 Amp test load when used with a high resolution DMM like your Fluke 87V. The smallest fuse usually found in the fuse box is usually 3 Amps, so a 2 Amp test load should never blow a fuse. You do not have to test at the circuit maximum rated current to see a high resistance fault when using the 87V.
My 2 Amp and 1/2 Amp non-inductive power resistor test loads are very compact and I connect them like you do with stacking banana jacks at my DMM. However, they do not light up which is a feature some techs like so they can tell that the load is indeed in the circuit, which is a valid argument.
What I do is attach my test loads first and then put the meter on resistance and verify I have continuity through my test load, then I attach my test leads and short them out to verify continuity through the test leads, then I switch to DC Volts am ready to test. I really hate filament bulbs. I hate the inrush current, I have how they dissipate heat (meaning they can burn you or something else like carpeting), I hate that they are made out of glass (which can break), I hate that no two are exactly the same, and I hate that they can burn out. But, let's look at it another way from an outsiders perspective, in that, you use a high end professional expensive Fluke 87V DMM ($450.00 to $500.00), why not use a professional dummy load to match?
If you want an accurate test load that lights up you could use an LED control IC (like the TI TPS92621-Q1) and some high brightness LEDs which would enable you to very accurately control the load current without using a filament glass bulb (it could have many more features than the light bulb, like polarity detect (only lights up with proper polarity), reverse polarity protection (no current flow with reverse connection), minimum turn on voltage, etc.). You would have to make a little circuit board with devices on one side and then bond it to an aluminum heatsink. But it could be made very compact and could mount directly to the meter using PCB solder banana plugs (no more dealing with the spaghetti leads to the DMM). So, the overall packaging could be the width of your DMM, perhaps 3/4 inch thick and 1 inch tall.
How the HSCAN node triggers on the CAN data, for traditional HSCAN automotive design (qualified parts, ESD rated, etc.) is really dependent on the HSCAN transceiver used in the design, although there is a lot of similarities between the different IC vendors (Infineon, NXP, etc.). For example the NXP TJA1043 actually uses a split termination approach using two 60 Ohm resistors and a capacitor. To understand exactly what the IC does can take a little reverse engineering, in that, many of the special features like controlled rise and fall time are proprietary.
Who removed the harness polyester corrugated loom leaving bare wires?
What is you load tester now? Have you triet something else?
My two automotive 12VDC dummy loads are 22 Ohm and 6.8 Ohm non-inductive power resistors each having a small aluminum heat sink. The 22 Ohm resistor is a good starting point to test fuse power feed source impedance. @@alexandrumardare828
Another great video and diag. How do you know what bulb draws how much current ? Do you measure each one ?
Yes I measured them
Also how do you know you are not using a higher load than the circuit can carry ?
@@saiautomotivemilton.7128 I’m usually only testing 10-20% of the wire capacity. That in most cases is enough to see what I need to in the voltage drop.
I check wake up circuits dynamically. Everything connected and use scope. I know people will say that your not loading the circuit. But the car is broke right now. If the wakeup signal is good while vehicle is broke then no reason to "load" it. Just my opinion.
Darn it, yes you are right lol. Thanks for the correction!
ICM= Integrated chassie madwell
Where did you get those bulb holders?
@@autodiagyt ahh ideal, you just make them up yourself? I’ll get right onto it 👌🏻
B-series or K? (I'm personally a B series guy ) .......... Thanks for sharing the good diag
@@autodiagyt 👍👍
All the lights except the turn signals, lol.
Brilliant CAN diagnosis, Jake! OE diagrams for the win! That's awesome that you could narrow down the location of that broken wire just from scope captures and a wiring diagram. What a crazy spot to put a splice lol
@@autodiagyt haha can't wait!
Me neither!@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Good job guys the Malibu rescue guys ian lol
Dynamic Stability Control.
Good job Jake soak him good
Could you please add Turkish background to each of your videos? I would appreciate if you add it, thank you in advance
I don’t know what you mean. Like add Turkish captions so you can read what I’m saying?
B18c
Your engine tattoo on your arm
Drove the hell out of my $ 400 civic with b16 all over Mexico and back to Ca with no problems.
Tutorial brilliant
Thanks for sharing it
SUBSTANTIAL Automotive Diagnostics & Programming
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 08:58am Good Morning 🙏 🌄
Once again, someone does shoddy work and creates a diagnostic challenge.
DSC = Dynamic Stability Control