That big chunk of laminated iron plates with a big copper coil wound through it is the choke. It helps to smooth out the ripple of the rectified a/c current going to the dc motor. It just helps reduce sparking between the brushes and stator and will make your motor last a lot longer than it would without it.
the speed adjustment is most likely due to the pre-programmed exercise routines....for instance some of the routines have you sprint for 0.1 mile and then drops it down to 80 of whatever your sprint speed was set at for a few hundred feet, then goes back up to sprint....there are many algorythms that it could be using, but that gives you an idea. You should get the manual and go through the sections on treadmill programs offered. There should be one that you could fix the speed at some manual setting up to its max. You just have to find out which buttons to press.
Classic. ...some of these comments got me laughing! I dig the personality filled, raw yet informative video. You put in a disclaimer and I'm not asking you to be an elecchicken. I'm learning shhhtufff 💯%. A1! street cred. Thx. eh'
That coil is a transformer. It steps voltage up or down based on the difference of wraps in the primary and secondary windings. The AC to DC conversion is done by a rectifier on the board. Great video though.
no it is not, it is a simple choke used for treadmill applications to smooth out the torque applied to the running belt. It is NOT necessary for machine conversion applications. Transformers have a primary and a secondary set of windings. These have only one.
Just for the record, that is NOT an isolation transformer, and it IS a choke as John correctly pointed out above. It is also needed, useful and will extend the life of the drive. Go ahead and use it as it doesn't eat much...lol
@@sickboymech92 No Ronster it is a choke coil. John is correct. A transformer has four wires or more and a primary and secondary set of windings just like john said and us used sto step up and down voltage like Ian said. It will smooth out the voltage to the motor just like Barrett said to extend the motor life.
Great video, thanks for posting. To confirm, you recommend attaching the green ground wire from the wall outlet to the metal frame of whatever the MC60 and motor are connected to? (in my case a belt grinder with steel frame)
Yes anytime you have a 120v from the wall to the machine you want the earth ground "green wire" attached to the machine. It will operate fine without it. It is only a safety precaution in case something shorts. It is not a fail safe to protect against electric shock, but it will lessen a hazardous situation then if it was not attached. Ideally you want the ground connected to the machine between the power source and operator. Electricity does not discriminate, it is said that it takes the path of less resistance, but this is a fallacy. It takes every path possible.
you have to check if this switch is for 32 volts (automobile applications ) or 120,277 volts etc;etc ,don't use a 32 volt switch on 120 volt system , also check for properly seating brushes ( this is important in DC motors and A.C motors whit brushes ) in both cases ,,,,2 rotations or single rotation motors ,,,,( CW-CCW ),etc,etc, in 2 direction the brushes are aprox,,perpendicular to a commutator , single direction motor the brushes are aprox ,,, 30 degree angle from commutator and also not install on the center of the poles ,,,,depend if the motor have interpoles or not we have to check that out to figure the best location for install the brushe holders to avoid spark's in the brushes ,,,i was the DC man in the motor shop 40 years a go
I have a question please, If i would like to replace the 3 mosfers do i have to attach them to the aluminum bracket? And if yes, how i can do that attached and soldering them?
I have same board I connecting everthing like You explain in the video tutorial but My is not turning on ,do You have any idea what's the problem. Thanks
Look for shit stains on the board. there is also something called a "dry joint ?". That is were you developed a crack around a solder point. you wont be able to see those without good magnification. You will also probably have to gently wiggle the components to see a dry joint but thoroughly visually inspect first. Don't want to cause any damage not there. Did you see a video for the homebrew one I built. If running 120v you probably only need about 25k-32k micro fared capacitors. Can build them pretty cheap and mine does amazing the motor stays so cool and no sparking from the brushes. I have been meaning to post more. however been raising a little man. Thinking of trying to get him involved in the shop and on youtube. It's not an easy thing to get going on a budget with limited time. Thank for watching hope this helps.
Do you have any idea why a digital tachometer would read out much faster speed than the spindle is turning? I hooked up a new digital tachometer but when I just have the spindle turning the tach is reading about 400 or 500 rpms. I don't get it. Thanks
Is it PNP or NPN? It may be to close proximity if it is a hall type. with a magnet or the magnet could be to powerful. Also check to make sure you have the correct voltage. It could also need a different type display. I haven't played with them too much, I have a few but haven;t got around to fiddling them.
to solve the starting problem of having to reset everytime..Put a single pole switch in the first lead of the pot..you will still need an of an on switch...for the whole sys but this will solve your restarting problem
Interesting. The motors themselves require a DC load usually between 90- 150 volts. So theoretically you could power the motor with any DC power supply of sufficient means. However, you would need a voltage regulator and likely a PWM to control speed. I think if you designed a mechanical means of speed change and used a constant power supply on the motor itself, then you would have a very capable set-up. (personally if I was to try something like that I would use a power supply rated at 75-80 % of the voltage listed on the motor.) As for the controllers I would have to say no. AC is an actuating current between 50-60 Hz. DC is considered a Zero frequency current it is single direction. The controller was not designed for DC so I have to believe it would not work without sine wave input of 50-60 Hz.
Ronster Irons hey thanks for the information. this is all new stuff for me and I appreciate the help. my goal was to use the motor and speed controller for a cheap electric tricycle powerd by four 12volt agm batteries. if I was to run them in Series and create 48 volts. do you think that it would be sufficient? the motor is 96 VDC and 18amps. or should I just get the right motor? thanks
Hmmm.. A lot of factors. I would bench test the set up and check the motor speed with a digital tachometer. (About 15 bucks on ebay, great to have) With battery reading compared to the max speed for the motor (info that may or may not be easy to find online). However with a digital tach you can easily bench test the motor with the controller also to find the max RPM. That would give you a baseline for how hard 48v would push the motor. Another possibility is using a dc to dc converter or series of them, however I believe this would lessen battery life. Another factor you must consider is the RPM of the motor vs. max speed of the bike. Obviously you will want a pretty serious gear reduction or better yet a series of gears to give plenty of starting torque and enough top end, plus that would allow max battery life (old riding lawnmower transaxles have a great gear set that would be easy to incorporate, gear drives, not hydrostatic. Hydrostatic are easily identified by a fan on top the transaxle ). Use a stout bike frame too. those things get scary at about 30mph and high quality rims trued by an expert. I have wanted to do a similar project, but a hybrid with electric and gas. Use the electric to get up and go then let the gas take over for higher speeds. Once the gas take over the electric motor could act as a generator to replenish the batteries.
RPM's are only a small part of this equation, the biggest part is TORQUE. DC motors can be rewound for any voltage you want. Some motor shops wouldn't bother with doing this, and some smaller ones might like helping you out. Large industrial motor shops just want large industrial $$$$.
No information is better than completely false information... especially when you make it sound so detailed and convincing... mind boggling... I can appreciate what you're attempting to do here, but mannnnnn, that was painful to watch! Just bc you're dad may be a "master electrician", certainly does NOT mean that you are and you most definitely should NOT be giving the masses completely and utterly inaccurate information unless you're completely sure you know what you're doing/ talking about! That's just dangerous and negligent and it's how ppl end up electrocuting themselves from misinformation while trying to mimic what they saw/heard you tell them to do... it's one thing if you jumbled up the names of some of the components or something, but you're telling people that they have "a transducer that is turning AC into DC by having coils w electromagnetic pulses, yada yada yada," when in fact, they have a choke or an inductor (which looks like a transformer, I'll give you that, but transformers only work with AC, period! This is DC at this point with the inductor wired in series w the motor!) And I could keep going but at this point I really don't think I have to, right? I mean when you think an inductor is a transducer or even a transformer-and worse yet, if it were - thinking a transformer turns ac into dc?? Come on man, maybe just stick to what you know before you get somebody killed, or even yourself... I'm not trying to rip on you, personally, but I think it would be the right thing to do if you took this video down from UA-cam altogether... I'm sure you'll find many others on here that would agree....
you are fun, you comment is the good one ,the choke he call a transducer, same people,,,, ( 99.999999999999999999% ),,,,should just record video whit no audio because they are danger with the information they give to someone,,,please don't open you mouth because you don't know what you talk about, tank you Jesse McLennan for tell the truth to this big mouth
That slurping shit is rude as hell it's always some guy that thinks he's the one Chuck Norris has nightmares about and he says super man says he's made of kryptonite but the truth is he stains his boxers when someone says BOO
Nice video but that is absolutely not how a Transformer works no Transformer will convert AC to DC power Transformers only work on the alternating current is what gives you the pulse field that generates the magnetic flux. This basic concept induction it's out all electromagnets an electric motors work What Transformers do according to the type of Transformer there are many with the one you're showing there is a step up or step down Transformer meaning you are transforming 120 AC current down to say 24 volt AC current you didn't need a rectifier to rectify that voltage into DC this is done with diodes. Many videos are out there about how Transformers work I'm not trying to nitpick that explanation of Transformers was just fundamentally wrong
Your coil, your choke, your transformer does not turn Ac into DC. To run AC to DC require diodes. They also use the word rectifier. Coils either raise the voltage or lower the voltage, step up or step down transformer. The little knowledge I have you are feeding typical household AC 120 or so volts and your motor run on DC. To convert 120 VAC to say 180VDC can not happen without first stepping up the AC voltage. If you simply rectify 120VAC to DC you will get much lower VDC. Because there will be lots of losses due to rectification. You lose at least 40 to 50 volts if not more. So first you have to turn that 120VAC to some higher Voltage AC. Then you rectify that higher VAC to VDC. I have noticed nobody really explains what exactly that coil is for. However, what I don't get is that it only has two wires....
You're mostly right it's up for the power loss you need to put a decimal point in front of those because it is fraction you do not lose that much voltage by diodes. You can expect about a half of a volt ( .500 loss) per diode so full Bridge rectifier four diodes you may lose two volts
@@thespiritof76.. Divide peak value of AC to the square root of 2 to get DC voltage in theory but in real life do you get more than or less than that......? ...something worthy of consideration. 120 VAC ( rough rms). has 141 VAC ( rough figure) peak value . The math is there. On the subject here, that coil set up is not a transformer.... they use the term choke for it. Being an inductor wired in series, as such its purpose is to block lower AC frequencies thereby reduce the humming motor sound etc.
the 2 wire coil or choke coil is to smooth out the ripples after rectified. see it's still not rectified to true DC power what it is is high cycle AC such a high cycle rate it gets interpreted as DC or direct constant current. that choke coil just smooths out the peaks in the sandwave also it removes electrical noise such as 60 cycle or high frequency hum
@@thespiritof76.. You will not find such a coil in any DC power supply that you plug into your outlet. The choke plays absolutely no role whatsoever in rectification. To convert AC to DC you need three things. 1. your diodes, capacitor, and voltage regulator for final smoothing. Please read below what choke is ( it is an inductor of course) and what is its purpose. Don't take my word for it. It is the wrong thing to do if you did, which you have not which is a good thing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choke_(electronics)#:~:text=In%20electronics%2C%20a%20choke%20is,AC)%20in%20an%20electrical%20circuit. I also wanted to mention that a 2, not 5 or 10K potentiometer is the most ideal to use for this setup. It is something to experiment with. (( It appears you somehow made no objection to the math I provided in the conversion value unless you paid no attention to it or otherwise shelved it)).
@@alchemy1 I wasn't replying to you. And I never said a choke was part of a dc power supply. I have at least some knowledge of chokes being I repair pro audio equipment for a living... Further more ALL you need to get an AC to read as dc current is a single diode. But anyway my breaks over I have work to do... good day
Elaborate? OK.... I will hit a few high spots. Some will be general and some specific to your set up. My comments aren't in order with your video, sadly. An uncontrolled DC motor will eventually run so fast it will tear itself apart, that is why speed control is so important. DC motor come in two flavors, permanent magnet motors and field wound motors. With a few exceptions all DC motors are equally reversible. Yours included. Your motor is a permanent magnet motor and that is why you have the little hitches when you turn it by hand slowly. The steel in the armature is going from one magnet to the next causing the little jump. This is happens in field would motors to a lesser amount due to "hysteresis". The little copper things inside by the brushes is the commutator. That is what reverses the armature polarity to make the motor run.(switches the windings from one polarity to the reverse as the motor turns). Inherently DC motors have MORE starting torque than their AC counterparts, and are capable of running at much slower speeds under load without burning out.- the opposite of what you said. I'm guessing that the motor you showed in your lathe is a field wound motor, so it has two sets of (4 wires) 2 wires. 2 for the armature and two for the field wiring and possibly more. I suspect that since you are apparently still using the treadmill control panel that it may be following a built in or programmed exercise pattern to make the user walk faster and slower. It could also be that you deleted the Tach generator, encoder or whatever it came with to make the motor run at a consistent speed despite the load being put on the motor. You by-passed it or deleted this in the one you were using in your video, so it's likely that under load your new setup might do the same. Slow startup and slow shut down is called ramp speed and is typically adjustable to one extent or another. The reversing switch you need and are talking about is a 3 position/double pole/center off switch and is easily wired, especially on a DC motor. I suspect that your RPM's you read on the "uncontrolled motor" was way off. Instead of 4,000rpm, 40,000 could easily be exceeded. I suspect you still had the speed controller hooked up, or the circuit board had it already built in for safety. CIRCUIT BREAKERS are NOT SWITCHES. They are there to protect the wiring and not the load. Also, most regular home circuit breakers are 15 amp, not 20. 14 gauge wire is used in most homes for the outlets and are rated at 15 amps. 12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amps and require a slightly different looking outlet that will run either a 15 amp load or 20 amp. Switching out an E-stop switch with a regular switch is not a good thing, and is against code. E stand for EMERGENCY not START. The e-stop is wired at the very beginning of a machines wiring circuit and kills all power to the machine in an emergency. The START switch is located later on in the circuit. The two should not be confused with each other, just as the circuit breaker shouldn't be. A defeated e-stop, in the event of an emergency such as a fire (for example) could easily give your insurance company the right to not cover your house fire, for example. OSHA would also not be pleased. A 10 turn pot on a lathe is *WAY* overkill and would drive most machinist nuts adjusting it up and down so many turns. A 3/4 to a 1 turn potentiometer with a large dial is plenty. TRANSFORMER is the word you were looking for, and it DOES NOT transform AC to DC, it changes the voltage up or down. A door bell for example has a simple step down transformer from 120VAC to 12 or 24VAC. A BRIDGE RECTIFIER changes AC to DC and with no other circuitry produces "dirty power", as you referred to it. Unless you did something to the circuits in the lathe drive, the power was very likely VERY clean with little "ripple". You were way off on your analysis. The blue wires in the end of the motor are FAR FROM POINTLESS. The are for protecting the motor from overheating and catching fire. This is the motor protection circuit (Thermal Overload Protection Switch) and should always be left in the in the circuit and in good working order. Finally- the A+ and A- terminal marking are the ARMATURE positive and ARMATURE negative and you are correct about putting the reversing switch down stream of this (IF YOU NEED THE MOTOR TO BE REVERSIBLE). In many machines- reversing it could be catastrophic, so caution should be exercised. One more thing that you didn't bring up, but is also important. Don't get too carried away with mixing controllers and motors. A 1HP rated controller will quickly burn out trying to control a 10 HP motor, or vice-versa. In industry it takes a 300 pound DC 1 HP motor to run some machines, and a 3 HP treadmill motor wouldn't stand a chance of even moving the machine, so don't think you can switch a 3HP AC or DC motor with a 3HP DC treadmill motor and always get away with it, there are far more things that need to be taken into consideration than just HP. There is more, but by this time I think you get the point? Thanks and good luck! P.S. I will be posting a lot of videos soon, now that I have time to do them.....I keep SAYING that but just never actually sit down and get it done.....LOL You are way ahead of me on that point. :)
I re-reading this I forgot one point. The "transformer" I referred to, is correct, but what I forgot to say is that the one in your video is a SHUNT. To make this easy to explain but not entirely accurate, it acts like a capacitor in that it keeps the motor from surging trying to find and keep a steady rpm rotation. The difference between the shunt coil and a transformer is easy to tell as the shunt only has two wires, where a transformer will have at least 4 wires and many times more, to tap different voltages.
Not sure what state you are from but here in Montana we run 20 amp house hold breakers. I can email you a photo if you like. In fact out of 24 breakers in our main box 17 are single 20 amp breakers 2 are 15 amp and the rest are 220 doubles. granted I don't know everything, and often have a hard time explaining things on an expert level. But the fact is most people only care about how to make it work not electric codes, especially here in the sticks, where electric permits are only necessary in city limits. besides we are not talking about big industrial machines, or commercial operations. you don't see a Monarch or Cadillac lathe. This video is for home shop not people that have to follow OSHA standards.
You asked me to elaborate, so I did.The NEC is the standard for wiring and electrical and dictates what is how. Granted, a lot of what they have in the NEC is BS just because they need to change things just to stay a viable entity, just like politicians. I didn't say that you couldn't have 20 amp breakers, and granted years ago they WERE they standard, but not anymore. I mostly just stepped in because you had so many errors or oversights that I felt obligated to say something. We are all on here for the same reason, to learn something and that is why I watched your video to begin with. I have a VERY, VERY! old imitation SHOPSMITH all in one woodworking tool. I am planning on powering it with a DC drive motor because the imitation one does not have a variable speed motor, like the real ones do. Even though I have a shop full of tool of all kinds and do almost anything imaginable in the shop, you can never have enough tools, right? Besides that, this old Shopsmith does have a lot of capabilities that most machines don't have and it is built like a MAC truck. It is currently powered by a pitifully big, old 1/2 hp motor, so big that someone cut the middle of the wooden bed so the motor could move back and forth and it still rubs! The little DC drive will work great on it. I need a LOT more drives, because I have a lot more projects to use them on. Treadmills are the biggest bargain out there for use DIY'ers and experimenters. I'd like to know how well your lathe stands up with some hard use, just to see what the small motors and circuit boards will handle, so please post a followup on it. I hope that some of what I said helps in some way. Just for the record, I used to be a MultiCraft Certified Industrial Maintenance Tech " A " Level 3 and manager, at some pretty big and impressive companies, so I pretty much had to know it all and be able to do it all. Took a lot of formal education to get there, so I try and HELP when I can...not piss on someone else's work. An industrial accident has sidelined me, so I play in my shop just to keep from in front of the "boob-tube". Please don't be offended by what all I said as I was just trying to help and keep everyone safe. Have fun! :-)
That big chunk of laminated iron plates with a big copper coil wound through it is the choke. It helps to smooth out the ripple of the rectified a/c current going to the dc motor. It just helps reduce sparking between the brushes and stator and will make your motor last a lot longer than it would without it.
the speed adjustment is most likely due to the pre-programmed exercise routines....for instance some of the routines have you sprint for 0.1 mile and then drops it down to 80 of whatever your sprint speed was set at for a few hundred feet, then goes back up to sprint....there are many algorythms that it could be using, but that gives you an idea. You should get the manual and go through the sections on treadmill programs offered. There should be one that you could fix the speed at some manual setting up to its max. You just have to find out which buttons to press.
Great video. Thx 4 taking the time to make this video.
Classic. ...some of these comments got me laughing! I dig the personality filled, raw yet informative video. You put in a disclaimer and I'm not asking you to be an elecchicken. I'm learning shhhtufff 💯%.
A1! street cred. Thx. eh'
That coil is a transformer. It steps voltage up or down based on the difference of wraps in the primary and secondary windings. The AC to DC conversion is done by a rectifier on the board. Great video though.
no it is not, it is a simple choke used for treadmill applications to smooth out the torque applied to the running belt. It is NOT necessary for machine conversion applications. Transformers have a primary and a secondary set of windings. These have only one.
It is called an isolation transformer it should be included in the circuit for safety reasons.
Just for the record, that is NOT an isolation transformer, and it IS a choke as John correctly pointed out above. It is also needed, useful and will extend the life of the drive. Go ahead and use it as it doesn't eat much...lol
@@sickboymech92 No Ronster it is a choke coil. John is correct. A transformer has four wires or more and a primary and secondary set of windings just like john said and us used sto step up and down voltage like Ian said. It will smooth out the voltage to the motor just like Barrett said to extend the motor life.
many thanks sir. learned alot from you. thanks
I’m same place so the potentiometer that was on my treadmill is a slide I wanna put a knob on my lathe what size potentiometer do I need?? Good info..
@@digitalchaos1959 can't remember off the top of my head, I have found a way better controller, those treadmill mc are shit.
Great video, thanks for posting. To confirm, you recommend attaching the green ground wire from the wall outlet to the metal frame of whatever the MC60 and motor are connected to? (in my case a belt grinder with steel frame)
Yes anytime you have a 120v from the wall to the machine you want the earth ground "green wire" attached to the machine. It will operate fine without it. It is only a safety precaution in case something shorts. It is not a fail safe to protect against electric shock, but it will lessen a hazardous situation then if it was not attached. Ideally you want the ground connected to the machine between the power source and operator. Electricity does not discriminate, it is said that it takes the path of less resistance, but this is a fallacy. It takes every path possible.
Matthew Makris Did you finish your belt grinder? I would love to see it.
you have to check if this switch is for 32 volts (automobile applications ) or 120,277 volts etc;etc ,don't use a 32 volt switch on 120 volt system , also check for properly seating brushes ( this is important in DC motors and A.C motors whit brushes ) in both cases ,,,,2 rotations or single rotation motors ,,,,( CW-CCW ),etc,etc, in 2 direction the brushes are aprox,,perpendicular to a commutator , single direction motor the brushes are aprox ,,, 30 degree angle from commutator and also not install on the center of the poles ,,,,depend if the motor have interpoles or not we have to check that out to figure the best location for install the brushe holders to avoid spark's in the brushes ,,,i was the DC man in the motor shop 40 years a go
I have a question please, If i would like to replace the 3 mosfers do i have to attach them to the aluminum bracket? And if yes, how i can do that attached and soldering them?
I have same board I connecting everthing like You explain in the video tutorial but My is not turning on ,do You have any idea what's the problem. Thanks
Look for shit stains on the board. there is also something called a "dry joint ?". That is were you developed a crack around a solder point. you wont be able to see those without good magnification. You will also probably have to gently wiggle the components to see a dry joint but thoroughly visually inspect first. Don't want to cause any damage not there. Did you see a video for the homebrew one I built. If running 120v you probably only need about 25k-32k micro fared capacitors. Can build them pretty cheap and mine does amazing the motor stays so cool and no sparking from the brushes. I have been meaning to post more. however been raising a little man. Thinking of trying to get him involved in the shop and on youtube. It's not an easy thing to get going on a budget with limited time. Thank for watching hope this helps.
MC 80 and earlier versions are simple plug and run, the 2100 get interesting.
on waht model of tredmil did you get that controler ? or waht model the controler is?
Just an idea, one box for motors, one for controllers, one for wires etc.
Do you have any idea why a digital tachometer would read out much faster speed than the spindle is turning? I hooked up a new digital tachometer but when I just have the spindle turning the tach is reading about 400 or 500 rpms. I don't get it.
Thanks
Is it PNP or NPN? It may be to close proximity if it is a hall type. with a magnet or the magnet could be to powerful. Also check to make sure you have the correct voltage. It could also need a different type display. I haven't played with them too much, I have a few but haven;t got around to fiddling them.
Ronster Irons thanks a bunch.
Your question is far to general and not nearly enough tech info to be able to answer that. In this case Google is your best friend.
What modifications to the board can be made to eliminate the random changing in rpms
He doesnt have a choke on it. That will smooth out the voltage, thats why its best to get the while treadmill.
Would you be willing to sell one of those 2100 boards?
Don't know, don't even know where any are ATM. I quit using MC boards and made my own DC power supply.
@@sickboymech92 thanks for replying, I found one to replace the one I fried. My lathe is coming along nicely
Hey great video I have u-mc2100-12a bord is possible to connect a potentiometer if so where would it go
Not so much to my knowledge. Check this out. ua-cam.com/video/zWk7b0snB9c/v-deo.html
to solve the starting problem of having to reset everytime..Put a single pole switch in the first lead of the pot..you will still need an of an on switch...for the whole sys but this will solve your restarting problem
Yeah the problem was actually solved by using the drum as an intermediate switch to stop the spindle during operation. Thanks
can you power these controllers off of DC
Interesting. The motors themselves require a DC load usually between 90- 150 volts. So theoretically you could power the motor with any DC power supply of sufficient means. However, you would need a voltage regulator and likely a PWM to control speed. I think if you designed a mechanical means of speed change and used a constant power supply on the motor itself, then you would have a very capable set-up. (personally if I was to try something like that I would use a power supply rated at 75-80 % of the voltage listed on the motor.) As for the controllers I would have to say no. AC is an actuating current between 50-60 Hz. DC is considered a Zero frequency current it is single direction. The controller was not designed for DC so I have to believe it would not work without sine wave input of 50-60 Hz.
Ronster Irons hey thanks for the information. this is all new stuff for me and I appreciate the help. my goal was to use the motor and speed controller for a cheap electric tricycle powerd by four 12volt agm batteries. if I was to run them in Series and create 48 volts. do you think that it would be sufficient? the motor is 96 VDC and 18amps. or should I just get the right motor? thanks
Hmmm.. A lot of factors. I would bench test the set up and check the motor speed with a digital tachometer. (About 15 bucks on ebay, great to have) With battery reading compared to the max speed for the motor (info that may or may not be easy to find online). However with a digital tach you can easily bench test the motor with the controller also to find the max RPM. That would give you a baseline for how hard 48v would push the motor. Another possibility is using a dc to dc converter or series of them, however I believe this would lessen battery life. Another factor you must consider is the RPM of the motor vs. max speed of the bike. Obviously you will want a pretty serious gear reduction or better yet a series of gears to give plenty of starting torque and enough top end, plus that would allow max battery life (old riding lawnmower transaxles have a great gear set that would be easy to incorporate, gear drives, not hydrostatic. Hydrostatic are easily identified by a fan on top the transaxle ). Use a stout bike frame too. those things get scary at about 30mph and high quality rims trued by an expert. I have wanted to do a similar project, but a hybrid with electric and gas. Use the electric to get up and go then let the gas take over for higher speeds. Once the gas take over the electric motor could act as a generator to replenish the batteries.
RPM's are only a small part of this equation, the biggest part is TORQUE. DC motors can be rewound for any voltage you want. Some motor shops wouldn't bother with doing this, and some smaller ones might like helping you out. Large industrial motor shops just want large industrial $$$$.
No information is better than completely false information... especially when you make it sound so detailed and convincing... mind boggling... I can appreciate what you're attempting to do here, but mannnnnn, that was painful to watch! Just bc you're dad may be a "master electrician", certainly does NOT mean that you are and you most definitely should NOT be giving the masses completely and utterly inaccurate information unless you're completely sure you know what you're doing/ talking about! That's just dangerous and negligent and it's how ppl end up electrocuting themselves from misinformation while trying to mimic what they saw/heard you tell them to do... it's one thing if you jumbled up the names of some of the components or something, but you're telling people that they have "a transducer that is turning AC into DC by having coils w electromagnetic pulses, yada yada yada," when in fact, they have a choke or an inductor (which looks like a transformer, I'll give you that, but transformers only work with AC, period! This is DC at this point with the inductor wired in series w the motor!) And I could keep going but at this point I really don't think I have to, right? I mean when you think an inductor is a transducer or even a transformer-and worse yet, if it were - thinking a transformer turns ac into dc?? Come on man, maybe just stick to what you know before you get somebody killed, or even yourself... I'm not trying to rip on you, personally, but I think it would be the right thing to do if you took this video down from UA-cam altogether... I'm sure you'll find many others on here that would agree....
you are fun, you comment is the good one ,the choke he call a transducer, same people,,,, ( 99.999999999999999999% ),,,,should just record video whit no audio because they are danger with the information they give to someone,,,please don't open you mouth because you don't know what you talk about, tank you Jesse McLennan for tell the truth to this big mouth
Good video but what ever you do, don't use a metal switch for mains.
Good information but camera movement is making me sea sick! Good job!
Yeah can’t watch
Why not use a washing machine motor that has two directions movement?
most washing machine motors are an open frame design, not great for small metal swarf enviroment.
OMG you will make some lawyer rich one day. So much misinformation to prosses!!
12:40.
That slurping shit is rude as hell it's always some guy that thinks he's the one Chuck Norris has nightmares about and he says super man says he's made of kryptonite but the truth is he stains his boxers when someone says BOO
Nice video but that is absolutely not how a Transformer works no Transformer will convert AC to DC power Transformers only work on the alternating current is what gives you the pulse field that generates the magnetic flux. This basic concept induction it's out all electromagnets an electric motors work
What Transformers do according to the type of Transformer there are many with the one you're showing there is a step up or step down Transformer meaning you are transforming 120 AC current down to say 24 volt AC current you didn't need a rectifier to rectify that voltage into DC this is done with diodes. Many videos are out there about how Transformers work I'm not trying to nitpick that explanation of Transformers was just fundamentally wrong
Transformer
Your coil, your choke, your transformer does not turn Ac into DC. To run AC to DC require diodes. They also use the word rectifier. Coils either raise the voltage or lower the voltage, step up or step down transformer.
The little knowledge I have you are feeding typical household AC 120 or so volts and your motor run on DC. To convert 120 VAC to say 180VDC can not happen without first stepping up the AC voltage. If you simply rectify 120VAC to DC you will get much lower VDC. Because there will be lots of losses due to rectification. You lose at least 40 to 50 volts if not more. So first you have to turn that 120VAC to some higher Voltage AC. Then you rectify that higher VAC to VDC.
I have noticed nobody really explains what exactly that coil is for. However, what I don't get is that it only has two wires....
You're mostly right it's up for the power loss you need to put a decimal point in front of those because it is fraction you do not lose that much voltage by diodes. You can expect about a half of a volt ( .500 loss) per diode so full Bridge rectifier four diodes you may lose two volts
@@thespiritof76.. Divide peak value of AC to the square root of 2 to get DC voltage in theory but in real life do you get more than or less than that......? ...something worthy of consideration. 120 VAC ( rough rms). has 141 VAC ( rough figure) peak value . The math is there.
On the subject here, that coil set up is not a transformer.... they use the term choke for it. Being an inductor wired in series, as such its purpose is to block lower AC frequencies thereby reduce the humming motor sound etc.
the 2 wire coil or choke coil is to smooth out the ripples after rectified. see it's still not rectified to true DC power what it is is high cycle AC such a high cycle rate it gets interpreted as DC or direct constant current. that choke coil just smooths out the peaks in the sandwave also it removes electrical noise such as 60 cycle or high frequency hum
@@thespiritof76.. You will not find such a coil in any DC power supply that you plug into your outlet. The choke plays absolutely no role whatsoever in rectification. To convert AC to DC you need three things. 1. your diodes, capacitor, and voltage regulator for final smoothing.
Please read below what choke is ( it is an inductor of course) and what is its purpose. Don't take my word for it. It is the wrong thing to do if you did, which you have not which is a good thing.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choke_(electronics)#:~:text=In%20electronics%2C%20a%20choke%20is,AC)%20in%20an%20electrical%20circuit.
I also wanted to mention that a 2, not 5 or 10K potentiometer is the most ideal to use for this setup. It is something to experiment with.
(( It appears you somehow made no objection to the math I provided in the conversion value unless you paid no attention to it or otherwise shelved it)).
@@alchemy1 I wasn't replying to you. And I never said a choke was part of a dc power supply. I have at least some knowledge of chokes being I repair pro audio equipment for a living... Further more ALL you need to get an AC to read as dc current is a single diode. But anyway my breaks over I have work to do... good day
That's an inductor. Not a transformer or rectifier. So much misinformation
Learn what you are talking about before you go misleading a lot of people. Your Dad may be an electrician but you certainly aren't.
why don't you elaborate. Instead of an ambiguous statement.
Elaborate? OK.... I will hit a few high spots. Some will be general and some specific to your set up. My comments aren't in order with your video, sadly.
An uncontrolled DC motor will eventually run so fast it will tear itself apart, that is why speed control is so important. DC motor come in two flavors, permanent magnet motors and field wound motors. With a few exceptions all DC motors are equally reversible. Yours included. Your motor is a permanent magnet motor and that is why you have the little hitches when you turn it by hand slowly. The steel in the armature is going from one magnet to the next causing the little jump. This is happens in field would motors to a lesser amount due to "hysteresis". The little copper things inside by the brushes is the commutator. That is what reverses the armature polarity to make the motor run.(switches the windings from one polarity to the reverse as the motor turns). Inherently DC motors have MORE starting torque than their AC counterparts, and are capable of running at much slower speeds under load without burning out.- the opposite of what you said.
I'm guessing that the motor you showed in your lathe is a field wound motor, so it has two sets of (4 wires) 2 wires. 2 for the armature and two for the field wiring and possibly more. I suspect that since you are apparently still using the treadmill control panel that it may be following a built in or programmed exercise pattern to make the user walk faster and slower. It could also be that you deleted the Tach generator, encoder or whatever it came with to make the motor run at a consistent speed despite the load being put on the motor. You by-passed it or deleted this in the one you were using in your video, so it's likely that under load your new setup might do the same.
Slow startup and slow shut down is called ramp speed and is typically adjustable to one extent or another. The reversing switch you need and are talking about is a 3 position/double pole/center off switch and is easily wired, especially on a DC motor.
I suspect that your RPM's you read on the "uncontrolled motor" was way off. Instead of 4,000rpm, 40,000 could easily be exceeded. I suspect you still had the speed controller hooked up, or the circuit board had it already built in for safety.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS are NOT SWITCHES. They are there to protect the wiring and not the load. Also, most regular home circuit breakers are 15 amp, not 20. 14 gauge wire is used in most homes for the outlets and are rated at 15 amps. 12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amps and require a slightly different looking outlet that will run either a 15 amp load or 20 amp. Switching out an E-stop switch with a regular switch is not a good thing, and is against code. E stand for EMERGENCY not START. The e-stop is wired at the very beginning of a machines wiring circuit and kills all power to the machine in an emergency. The START switch is located later on in the circuit. The two should not be confused with each other, just as the circuit breaker shouldn't be. A defeated e-stop, in the event of an emergency such as a fire (for example) could easily give your insurance company the right to not cover your house fire, for example. OSHA would also not be pleased.
A 10 turn pot on a lathe is *WAY* overkill and would drive most machinist nuts adjusting it up and down so many turns. A 3/4 to a 1 turn potentiometer with a large dial is plenty.
TRANSFORMER is the word you were looking for, and it DOES NOT transform AC to DC, it changes the voltage up or down. A door bell for example has a simple step down transformer from 120VAC to 12 or 24VAC. A BRIDGE RECTIFIER changes AC to DC and with no other circuitry produces "dirty power", as you referred to it. Unless you did something to the circuits in the lathe drive, the power was very likely VERY clean with little "ripple". You were way off on your analysis.
The blue wires in the end of the motor are FAR FROM POINTLESS. The are for protecting the motor from overheating and catching fire. This is the motor protection circuit (Thermal Overload Protection Switch) and should always be left in the in the circuit and in good working order.
Finally- the A+ and A- terminal marking are the ARMATURE positive and ARMATURE negative and you are correct about putting the reversing switch down stream of this (IF YOU NEED THE MOTOR TO BE REVERSIBLE). In many machines- reversing it could be catastrophic, so caution should be exercised.
One more thing that you didn't bring up, but is also important. Don't get too carried away with mixing controllers and motors. A 1HP rated controller will quickly burn out trying to control a 10 HP motor, or vice-versa. In industry it takes a 300 pound DC 1 HP motor to run some machines, and a 3 HP treadmill motor wouldn't stand a chance of even moving the machine, so don't think you can switch a 3HP AC or DC motor with a 3HP DC treadmill motor and always get away with it, there are far more things that need to be taken into consideration than just HP.
There is more, but by this time I think you get the point? Thanks and good luck!
P.S.
I will be posting a lot of videos soon, now that I have time to do them.....I keep SAYING that but just never actually sit down and get it done.....LOL You are way ahead of me on that point. :)
I re-reading this I forgot one point. The "transformer" I referred to, is correct, but what I forgot to say is that the one in your video is a SHUNT. To make this easy to explain but not entirely accurate, it acts like a capacitor in that it keeps the motor from surging trying to find and keep a steady rpm rotation. The difference between the shunt coil and a transformer is easy to tell as the shunt only has two wires, where a transformer will have at least 4 wires and many times more, to tap different voltages.
Not sure what state you are from but here in Montana we run 20 amp house hold breakers. I can email you a photo if you like. In fact out of 24 breakers in our main box 17 are single 20 amp breakers 2 are 15 amp and the rest are 220 doubles. granted I don't know everything, and often have a hard time explaining things on an expert level. But the fact is most people only care about how to make it work not electric codes, especially here in the sticks, where electric permits are only necessary in city limits. besides we are not talking about big industrial machines, or commercial operations. you don't see a Monarch or Cadillac lathe. This video is for home shop not people that have to follow OSHA standards.
You asked me to elaborate, so I did.The NEC is the standard for wiring and electrical and dictates what is how. Granted, a lot of what they have in the NEC is BS just because they need to change things just to stay a viable entity, just like politicians. I didn't say that you couldn't have 20 amp breakers, and granted years ago they WERE they standard, but not anymore. I mostly just stepped in because you had so many errors or oversights that I felt obligated to say something. We are all on here for the same reason, to learn something and that is why I watched your video to begin with. I have a VERY, VERY! old imitation SHOPSMITH all in one woodworking tool. I am planning on powering it with a DC drive motor because the imitation one does not have a variable speed motor, like the real ones do. Even though I have a shop full of tool of all kinds and do almost anything imaginable in the shop, you can never have enough tools, right? Besides that, this old Shopsmith does have a lot of capabilities that most machines don't have and it is built like a MAC truck. It is currently powered by a pitifully big, old 1/2 hp motor, so big that someone cut the middle of the wooden bed so the motor could move back and forth and it still rubs! The little DC drive will work great on it. I need a LOT more drives, because I have a lot more projects to use them on. Treadmills are the biggest bargain out there for use DIY'ers and experimenters. I'd like to know how well your lathe stands up with some hard use, just to see what the small motors and circuit boards will handle, so please post a followup on it. I hope that some of what I said helps in some way. Just for the record, I used to be a MultiCraft Certified Industrial Maintenance Tech " A " Level 3 and manager, at some pretty big and impressive companies, so I pretty much had to know it all and be able to do it all. Took a lot of formal education to get there, so I try and HELP when I can...not piss on someone else's work. An industrial accident has sidelined me, so I play in my shop just to keep from in front of the "boob-tube". Please don't be offended by what all I said as I was just trying to help and keep everyone safe.
Have fun! :-)
Gross!! No respect.
Wrong wrong wrong.