Should we DEMOLISH our 100+ y.o. chimneys? / Renovating an old ABANDONED farm in Belgium
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2024
- The temperatures are dropping and new problems become exposed. What should we do with our chimneys? Join us to see what is our stuggle. Episode #147. Subscribe, like and comment to stay on top of our progress. Thanks, you're the best!
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You have 2 options with the chimney -
1 - Drop a rope down the chimney with a weight on the end and then once you get to the bottom, attach a metal flexible flue liner and pull it up to the chimney pot - a job you can easily do yourself. For piece of mind simply lime render the exposed chimney bricks upstairs to stop any smoke from escaping into the room.
2 - Call a Chimney Specialist who specializes in Chimney Flue re-lining/re-coating. This is a process where the chimney gets a new internal coating of cement on the inside. It is a very un-intrusive process as the chimney will look exactly the same from the outside after the job is completed. The contractor will drop a rope down the chimney and then attach a balloon device that they will then pull up the chimney as they fill the chimney with cement (from the top). The balloon will move up and the shape it leaves with the new concrete will be your new flue. It is a very common technique used on old houses where the Lime Flue render has perished.
If you continue to use this chimney, then be sure to install a bird proof rain cap on the chimney pot. Not only will it stop birds getting in the chimney, but it will significantly reduce down drafts in the chimney and help the chimney draw better.
Re point it easy
@@se8214 Do both. Pull up a liner and repoint. Neither should be wildly expensive.
This is what I would do. It may be easier to pull the pipe down from the top. Gravity will work in your favor.
I agree with these solutions. Re-lining inside the chimney is also possible with a spécial resin, witch is fire protected, but it's necessary to do it with specialists. Perhaps this process exists in Belgium ? Check and see ?
Not really as you have the equivelant of a big spiral coil to drag up onto the roof... they aren't heavy just really awkward to uncoil. . @@drooplug
open the chimney on the curve and use two stainless steel pipes. the opening will provide access to the curve and also better maintenance for looking. for future maintenance make a big door just at the curve.
thats how its done in germany, im shure there are companies in belgium also
I like the way your work is continually " Cat Scanned ".....
If you are going to have more debris from the upper floor, why not build a chute from one of the windows down to a wheelbarrow, it will save you a lot of steps up and down the stairs
Hopefully no more significant amount of debris. Few bricks are not a problem :-) Replaces gym LOL
In my house (which is a farmhouse about 200 years old) I had a similar chimney, and even though it wasn't leaking, I still put a steel pipe inside. But mine was easier because it was straight.
I would discard total demolition, because it is too invasive and expensive, and I would instead suggest opening the internal wall of the chimney only at the curve points and using the openings to pass the pipe correctly.
Option 1 for sure, steel pipe is the way to go
That is the way. Best is to check with a chimney sweeper how to best proceed. But if it is the outer free wall you could do a steel chimney outside. Maybe not as nice but maybe the simplest solution.
The only problem with a steel pipe is that over time it will rust out, and by breaching the structural integrity of the existing chimney may create additional issues down the track. I like what was suggested by @paullynch277 with a full reline from the inside this then can be readily cleaned when required then repoint the outside of the chimney. @DehoeveOldBelgiumFarm
@@CarlaMWard- I meant stainless steel. Not sure about the integrity but most houses without a chimney get those added.
Our chimney was leaking smoke we put a stainless steel pipe in chimney has been working get for over thirty years they are great because all scoot falls to bottom and my husband cleans it every 7 weeks good luck with your decision
Many thanks for sharing your experience! We are considering this option.
I love the pictures when your kitty is in them checking things out.
I would be inclined to abandon the use of the chimney. Buy a cleaner efficient wood stove and send the flue through the wall and run it up the outside of the house wall. That should be cheaper and much less hassle.
It's and outside wall. Forget the inside chimney and build a new straight up chimney on the outside, obviously tied to the wall. An outside chimney stack should be the least expensive option and quick, fitting a liner as you go. This leaves you to carry on with indoor work. Just an option....
It's not as difficult as you think to put a flexible flue inside the chimney. It will last you for decades. Any company who installs wood burners will be able to install one for you. Also many professional chimney sweeps can install flues.
In Alberta Canada flexible/corrugated pipes are NOT allowed because the grooves allow creosote buildup which is how chimney fires start. Double walled steel pipes only.
Many thanks for sharing your advice!
the stainless steel pipe is mandatory in germany now, even if you built up your chimney from scratch, you still need the pipe.
In France as well. Without it insurance is not possible.
In addition you can poor a "dry mixture" cement - Perlite (or Vermiculite)1:10 to 1:12 met 25 L water/m³ around the pipe as isolation. The open corners will be very useful here.
Its very easy to pull a chimney flue liner down a chimney, drop a weighted rope down first then pull the liner down, a DIY, 2 person job. Plenty of YT vids. your chimney may have been proffesioally cleaned with a smoke test carried out which passed the external visual checks, but to test the integrity of a chimney, you need a very expensive pressure test to be carried out. You have found out where the chimney flue leaks without this expense! You can always remove bricks to aid the smooth passage of the flue liner, some fitters drop a round weight the approximate size of the liner to check it will fit. You can make one with a football filled with concrete with a hook to tie your rope to. Other methods of lining chimneys are with a concrete blow up ' former' that is dropped and inflated, then concrete poured around it to make a new flue opening. I am a retired chimney guy from UK, so please check your local regulations. Thanks, and there are solutions to your prob,lem, don't give in yet.
Many thanks for sharing your experience! Much appreciated!
No need to apologize for not showing work completed. Watching the cats was fine. The only advice I can offer about the chimney is to speak with your local fire department and ask for their thoughts and assistant. They primary concern is your safety.
Best cat playground ever - lucky cat!❤️
For chimneys its mandatory to let a professional take a look at it. There were houses burning down because a chimney got on fire. Be careful, professionals can advise you or do it for you. This time its maybe better to not let only Anneke supervise your work. 😊😊
Good luck!!
Am I missing something? Didn’t he say that the chimney was already inspected and passed?
@@Roheryn100yes he did
Why not build a new chimney / flue that goes directly through the wall behind the stove to the outside and then up the side of the house to the right height above the roof for proper draft? Is that possible?
You could also then put a clean out door on the outside of the chimney flue.
That was my idea as well ;) ... It's even easier to inspect / repair in case of need. The "old" chimney can be used to remember or deco (like missing stones in tiny house for candles) or could be completely removed to add more space to the rooms.
Thanks for an idea!
Sorry I don't know any chimney / heat contractors in Belgium. However I would mention a caution about the idea of using an aluminum liner tube passed down through the existing chimney flues, when using wood fires. The high heat of a wood fire can melt or badly damage aluminum flues. For natural gas heaters the aluminum liners are fine to use, but stainless steel flue liners would be even better and safer. If you want to stay with wood fires, I'd suggest a new chimney routed straight up through the rooms, using stainless steel double wall chimney pipe (inside tube and outside tube, insulation between). As you know this is not cheap, and openings would need to be made in the roof for them to exit, but they are pretty safe. One option might be to convert your wood stove to natural gas, or get a new gas-fired stove, and use the flue liner approach. Good luck, whichever method you choose. I'm confident you'll solve it, as you have solved so many problems already! Cheers from Canada.
Put a temporary flue thru the window so you can use the stove now.
As an investment to the property get it done professionally that way you both have piece of mind that the family and home will be safe for long term x
In Germany we had a patended type of rebuild it from the inside. On top of the chimney a windlass was installed with a chain and an iron Ball, in the wanted diameter, on the bottom. Then a spezial Mortar is thrown in the chimney and the Ironball is lifted . So th mortar fits the chimney from the inside properly.
Maybe there are Companys in Belgium working with this methode too. The Holes for cleaning and the Oven must be redrilled afterwards.
thanks for sharing! we like this method a lot, but we couldn't find service providers in Belgium so far
thanks for sharing! we like this method a lot, but we couldn't find service providers in Belgium so far.
Illia, You are doing a great job. I do not blame you for not wanting to get started in cold cold temperatures. I have no suggestions for your chimney. Best luck figuring it out.❤
As others have already suggested, a stainless steel pipe down the chimney (either a double insulated pipe or with the rest of the chimney cavity filled with non-combustible insulation - whatever your local building rule allow) is the way to go. This way you will never have any problems with tar by-products contaminating the brickwork. The flexible pipes are designed to so they can go around the bends in a chimney. Very few houses have a completely straight flue from ground to roof. I would get someone in to do it so you can have a guarantee.
And insurance. Many diys are not allowed for insurance purposes. If it was me I would look into that first before choosing the method of repair. Hopefully it will be free to find out. 🤗❤️🌈🙏🕊️💙💛
The filler would be a "dry mixture" cement - Perlite (or Vermiculite)1:10 to 1:12 met 25 L water/m³ around the pipe for isolation. The open corners will be very useful here.
Guys I have no experience with wood stoves, but it would seem to me the best plan would be to punch through the wall and run an insulated chimney pipe up the outside of the building and just forgo using the in wall chimney. Like you said trying to line the old chimney would be a real hassle and the cost in money and nerves might be prohibitive. Good luck in whatever way you choose se to go.
P.S. You could always brick up the outside pipe chimney later on in time.
May be you can install stainless steel chimney pipes with angle fittings if it is possible to open the brick chimney at the kinks.
Hi guys! To be honest, it would be quite easy to put flexible pipe (flue) inside the brick chimney.
Drop a rope or light chain down the inside and pull the flexible pipe up the chimney. It would flex enough for the slight angle change when you pull it up. I does mean you would have to open up your chimney at the bottom. If you are not comfortable doing this job I'm sure there would be chimney experts in your area that could do it for you. Good luck regardless of what you choose!
There would be the danger of chimney fire because of the multiple ridges needed to make the pipe flexible. That's why using flexible clothes dryer exhaust pipe is not acceptable.
Here in sweden we do something we call "glidgjutning" it translates to something like "glide cast" they will inflate a ballon inside the chimney and throw down mortar and hoist the ballon upwards. Much better than a pipe becuse the chimney will get hot and help with radient hearing.
Very interesting. Worth researching.
Done in the US as well.
Could you not have your stainless steel pipe vented through the wall onto the out side of the building and have the flue on the outside. Or have I seen too many cabin builds where this is done. 😅
That intro with the ladder is just genious, love it
Thank you very much!
I also would recommend a stainless steel pipe, there are flexible pipes that can go round these bends, and maybe only some holes must be made at a couple of points to guide the pipe.
Use a pipe of 150mm internal diameter at least, I had a company enlarging the internal width of the chimney with a special drill to fit this size.
It was a company from the Netherlands called Diamant Schoorsteentechniek and including the stainless steel pipe, the price was €287,- per meter, so you can calculate the price for the two chimneys.
When it is inside a brick channel it doesn't need to be double wall pipe, the space around the pipe is filled with vermiculite granulate, this means you must fill the holes before.
With a single wall pipe the chimney will provide some heat inside the house as it warms up when the stove is on. I never have to heat upstairs when my stove is on, the chimney warms up to around 25-30°C.
Many thanks for sharing your experience! and for the price :-) gives a slight idea what do need to prepare for...
Last video I told you to line the chimney (flexible steel pipe/sleeve). This is supposed to be a requirement for today's building requirements with regards fire and smoke safety. The steel pipe will be able to follow the bends in the chimney. I do not know the size/diameter of the present chimneys. I do not know if they are deep enough. You need an experienced specialist for the job. Ask the local fire brigade if they can recommend an expert. You will need good working chimneys. Good luck.
Many thanks for your advice!
I was under the impression that you can use your brick chimney as an enclosure for a metal chimney/pipe that evacuates the smoke safely without fear of smoke intrusion. Best of luck!
They already have a lined chimney.
@@NavyVet63 Oh, I thought they meant that it was lined with a concrete/mortar, not that it was metal lined. I must have misunderstood.
@@XYGSteveI must have missed that too 😵💫😵💫
по семейным обстоятельствам я долго не "заглядывала" на страницы интернета....и была очень рада ,что у главного прораба появился помощник-главный контролёр❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Cleaning up is the least enjoyable part of home construction. Good on you for including that part. Realism!!
I would take an inox tube with double wall. Now a bit more expensive maybe, but less maintenance for the future.
The chimney is fine, it has been checked, and you have the certificate.
It ain't broken, so don't fix it.
Just close the holes by injecting thin grout.
Wait and see if problems persist before starting a major job which may cause more harm than good.
Your home is the ultimate cat playground. 😄 🐈⬛
I'm checking every day to see the latest developments. Anxious for you! Hope it works out with minimal headache and backache.
Good luck, I wish you well with finding good chimney repair persons. I’m really glad you have discovered the problem before you did anymore work on the house.😊 ❤
Quality Control by the cat so funny 😂😂
How about a ventless gas fireplace….it burns so efficiently that you don’t need an outside vent
Too bad about the chimney, but like most DIY projects, it takes a lot of trials and errors to get it right. Google chimney specialists in your area and see what you find. As frustrating as it is, you might feel better (when it's finished) to tear it out and build it correctly.
I assume the chimney is on an exterior wall. Could you not just punch through to the outside and build a new chimney externally?
Another UA-cam channel Petit Chateau 1780 got their chimney relined with an epoxy tube which saved thousands over rebuilding. Very unique process for installing from the top down.
Yep, we found some providers in Belgium as well! Thanks!
put in a liner, imho...by the way, I LOVE my sweatshirt!!!
Thank you for your support! ❤
If you line the chimney, you can also put insulation between the liner and brick chimney which can improve the draw as the flue gas stays warmer.
I would definitely use a professional to repair the chimneys. They should have new liners and be rebuilt. Carbon monoxide poisoning is a very serious issue and you cant take half measures or do it yourself without the necessary expertise! The cheaper option would be to get rid of them altogether. Central heating would be sufficient to heat the house even if you lose the effect of a live fire and you could keep the insulation on the chimney rather than ripping it out for the repair. Finally wood stoves are a source of considerable particle emissions and so you may want to avoid them for that reason.
Do the cats think you made this entire playground for them?
Illia and Mariana that was great enjoyed it thank you for sharing and your time back on the big housegreat can't wait
If you want a chimney company in Belgium, a quick google shows 5 major companies.
Hello!
1st) What do you have behind that wall? Maybe you could open the hole trough the wall upstairs, for the smoke exit more easily; maybe you could break the chimney upstairs and make the hole outside;
2nd) A metal pipe straight to the top could be another solution, the only concern would be if you want to make the hole trough the roof, you have to take proper measures against water infiltration (dangerous to do this kind of works on the roof with all that snow)
It seems to be a very long chimney full of elbow curves.I'd say the most short way and the less curves, the better it would do its purpose.
I'm sure you'll find a good solution, I wish you good luck with your project! I love your channel, you are an inspiration to a lot of people
Definitely put in a flue liner. Even with curves it’s the easiest option.
Another option - probably not do-able: Insulated, double walled exterior chimney pipe. Pipe goes straight back from your fireplace, straight through exterior wall to a stainless steel or black insulated chimney which is bolted to the side of the building, rising above the roof as required by your local building code. Not exactly the prettiest solution. And it's expensive. But easy enough to get is done and inspected. Bonus: cleaning the chimney can be done from the exterior.
If I were you I would try to find out if it was possible to seal the chimney from the inside somehow. I'm pretty sure I've seen a video somewhere where they put something like a balloon (but much more durable) at the bottom of the chimney with a rope going up to the top. Then they dropped some concrete down from the top, and pulled the balloon up a few feet, so that the cement got distributed out against the walls . Then they poured some more cement and repeated the process until the balloon reached the top, and the whole chimney had a coating on the inside.
It can be found under keywords "HeatShield Chimney Flue Liner Repair System"
The houses down my street were built in the 1920s. Many have been converting back to the wood or coal fires. Due to the lining being corrupted they have used the steel pipe liners which have been very effective, even allowing for steep angles. I'm sorry I can't offer expert advice but it seems the best option to me. Good luck with it all and hope it gets resolved. ❤ Much love , you deserve success as you've put in so much work ❤
Perhaps, once obvious holes are patched, using some fire retardant paint (INSL-X) could do the trick of sealing small openings where smoke comes out. I would consult back with the chimney company that 'approved' it to see if a coating would be safe and viable.
I can relate to Illia procrastinating in cold temperatures - it's just not conducive to wanting to do anything except snuggle underneath a blanket
Another point if you need to rebuild you need to use a very different type of mortar one with a higher silica content.
A liner is the best practical solution. Try pulling up a 1 metre 5 inch offcut and draw it up with a rope. If goes up or down okay then order the full length. Use a nose cone on end to aid install. Install with arrow direction of the fumes. You may need to make access holes on any sharp bends and have some help to push manipulate it round bends while someone else pulling the rope. Use 904 grade liner inner and outer.
The easiest solution is to place a stainless liner, by a professional for insurance purposes, and you will not have any worries. I have done this to my house. Also fire rated rock board to place along the wall of the chimney. There are many solutions. Any place that sells wood stoves can probably assist you or direct you to someone who can.
First, I would like to thank you for your videos, the watching of which I enjoy.
Regarding your chimney issue, last winter, I dealt with a similar problem in my house. Tar caught fire in my chimney, causing a crack in the chimney on the second floor, and smoke began to escape into the room. Over time, tar stains with a strong odor appeared on the walls.
After consulting with a chimney specialist company, I chose the following repair procedure: in the section where the chimney had cracked, I removed the plaster on the chimney down to the brick, scraped all the joints between the bricks, and refilled all the gaps, holes, and cracks with a special refractory fireclay mortar. Subsequently, I reapplied the plaster. It's crucial not to underestimate this step, as in the future, tar will accumulate in the chimney, and due to temperature changes, condensation will form, seeping into the room through any small crack, creating tar stains on the walls with a strong odor. Personally, I've tested that no paint can permanently cover them; over time, tar will seep through again, and the smell will return. Preventing tar leakage can only be achieved with refractory fireclay mortar.
Afterwards, I had the chimney lined with a stainless steel flexible tube. This was done by a professional company. In straight sections of the chimney, the tube is normally inserted from top to bottom, and in various bends of the chimney, the chimney is opened at that point, the tube is passed through, and then it is sealed again.
This winter, I haven't had any issues with the chimney; it draws well, and nothing is leaking, neither smoke nor tar. Hopefully, my response will help you.
Don't tear it down. Put a pipe inside (not sure if it insulates and reduces the heat on the upstairs floor). Or re-line it with cement (diy is possible but it may be too hard when it is such a curvy and tall chimney). Perhaps you have a local chimney sweep to consult.
My suggestion is to put in a pipe. If you have to, you can remove bricks at the bends in order to get the pipe through.
You must have bee SO disappointed. I am sorry to hear of your dilemma.
I agree with the other commenters. You have 3 good choices depending on the technicians in your region.
1) Pull a flexible stainless steel flue liner up the chimney, Use lime mortar to close the gap between the liner and the brick flue at top and bottom. Add a chimney cap. Point the chimney wall on the inside of the house with lime mortar.
2) Install rigid stainless steel flue liner and fittings, opening the flue wall only at bends. Use lime mortar to close the gap between the liner and the brick flue at top and bottom. Add a chimney cap. Point the chimney wall on the inside of the house with lime mortar.
3) Reline the entire flue using the "balloon" technique (well established as a means of relining underground pipes). Add a chimney cap.
You will have to decide what you are comfortable tackling on your own. 1 you can definitely do. 2 May be tricky due to the bends - but I think you can do it. 3 will require a crew and materials for this specialized work.
Best of luck as always! 😊
Look into a pellet stove the 19 CM diameter venting requirements are very simple, you could run a temporary flue out a window you can get 8-10 hour burn on a full hopper. Here in western Canada Pellet supply has become difficult because all our mills are bulk shipping pellets to Germany so our pellets are available in Europe
We have 2 open chimneys that both go on a slant like yours that join in the roof space. Built 1896 Both have copex pipes in and they have never been any bother in 15 years. The fires are both serviced every year. I believe the men worked from the roof and dropped the pipes down then fixed them to the fires. in the UK so not able to recommend anyone in Belgium.
Do not forget to check with your insurance company. They might have specific requirements for a chimney, especially when used with a wood stove. I suppose that a double-sided flexible tube would be such a requirement together with proper sizing (diameter).
After reading comments… I would get a quote for a complete new brick fireplace, just to satisfy my curiosity. Ask about a whole house system since you live in a cold climate area. Think about installing pellet stoves and how many you would need to heat the whole house. I don’t think repairing it is a great plan. This is the time to do it right. I don’t remember if you put in “in floor heating” but I don’t think so. I think it’s gonna be a big challenge, and be expensive.
If you get a flue liner kit it will come with a nose cone, this can be screwed and taped to the flexible liner. Attach a rooe and pull it threw in stages. As said by others, open brickwork at the bends.
Alternatively, go threw the wall to the outsid and fit an external chimney steel pipe.
Самый простой способ, если не менять расположение буржуйки, это внутри старого дымохода установить новую круглую трубу вытяжки в металлической вате или специальном материале. Тянуть с крыши вниз. Второй вариант, отказаться от старого дымохода совсем и тянуть новую трубу по внешней стене выше конька дома
You can line the chimney with stainless steel pipe.
We use only wood to heat our house and all of our water for our bathrooms and our radiant floor heat as well.
Our wood stove has a tank and a serpentine that is so hot that it will make steam in 30 min and it is efficient. But wood is very cheap here and plentiful as well.
I would not take down the chimneys. Just have them lined. Jim in Chile.
Many thanks for sharing your experience! Very interesting how it's done in other countries.
@@DeHoeveOldBelgianFarm Both Chile and the former USA this is the way we do it. Jim
As already mentioned, you pull a flexible flue liner down the chimney stack using a rope.
To be honest, every woodbuner i know of had a flexible liner fitted. I would hire the help of an installer because the liners have a direction due to the ribs on it.
As pointed out by others I would put a tube/pipe in, but I would also dig back the mortar at the leaks and repoint
Contact the company that inspected the chimney!they should know who in your area can install a stainless steel flexible liner to go from the top of the chimney to the wood stove sixes for your stove
I don't know if anyone has pointed out that if you choose the steel pipe method, the pipe is insulated inside the chimney and thus the chimney will lose it's heat storing ability. Just something to keep in mind.
I'm sorry to hear about this new trouble. There are always new "surprises" aren't there? We are cheering you on from around the world. Don't give up!
I managed my chimney turns by running a brush up the chimney. I tied a rope on and pulled it down. I tied the top end of the rope to a double walled stainless liner and used the rope to pull the liner down. Once the liner was sealed to the flue, I backfilled with vermiculite.
Tear down the old chimney and build a proper, up to code, reliable, esthetcially pleasing and well designed one in it's place. Don't cheap it...Remember the bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of lower price.
You could put a small clean-out door on the second floor , at the bend, and use it to steer a flex-pipe up the chimney.
Sorry for your current chimney problem, hopefully someone will give you good advice.
I believe there is a product called Furanflex which could be installed in your chimneys to reline them safely despite how curvy they are. It's basically a resin hose that gets hauled up the chimney in a soft, flexible state and then inflated and cured into a hardened tube shape with steam. The result is a safely relined chimney with no major disassembly required. It does have to be installed by professionals, but their website should help you find one in Belgium.
Meanwhile, maybe it's a good time to consider a wiring and plumbing plan, and to work on installing as much of them as you can with the building in its current state? I don't think either of those requires a warm building to install, though obviously a warm building would be vastly preferable!
there used to be a company here in the UK called TRUE FLUE who made concrete liners for chimneys. They were taken over by Marley Buildings and production moved to Cheltenham. Marley in Cheltenham closed but not sure what happened to the True Flue work, as Marley has sites all over the UK.
Nothing against your cute kitty but Anneke is the Chief iInspector ❤
The pipe is a good idea. Much cheaper and easier. But a rebuild, though it would take time, effort and money, would be the best for the long term solution. Plus, you can get creative with it.
Poor you! Very strict building supervision by catspectors George and Anneke. :))
Lots of good, practical, efficient suggestions here in comments. Craftsmen wit h experience, homeowners with experience...a real treasure trove! Good luck! Anxious to see anything you guys post here. ❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊😊🐈⬛🐈⬛💯💪🤗❄️☃️🛷
Way too expensive to replace a brick chimney. A flexible liner on the other hand, is not pushed through a chimney but is pulled up or down a chimney with a rope. Once the rope is in place, weight it with a rock and drop it down from the top, fixing the rope to the liner and pulling the liner up or down the chimney only takes a few minutes.
If you don't want to go either route just knock a hole through the wall behind the stove and vent a pipe outside. Your stove will still work fine. This is the cheapest route.
Mind you, you could just seal the portions of chimney where the smoke is escaping with some mortar and in time, the creosote will seal up the leaks in the clay tile liner. Obviously your chimney inspector did not drop a camera down the chimney to check for cracks or breaks in the clay tile liner. And if there is no clay tile liner and only brickwork, then definitely just clean and re-point the leaks where the smoke escapes and all will be fine.
Using the stainless steel liner is probably the most cost effective and safest way to solve the issue, but I agree that it's more challenging to install it than with a straight run. The rope method mentioned by another person is probably the way to make it happen.
Run a line of plaster along the holes so that you can use the chimney in the short term then when the weather is warmer.attach a rope to the end of chimney liner and pull it through from the roof. you will probably need to make holes in the chimney to guid it over the angles. there should be no need to tear down the good work that you have done downstairs.
Please don't do the cement coating of the internal structure as suggested by other posters. It would be ok for a while, but it will eventually crack, be difficult to sweep and be impossible to replace without completely demolishing the chimney. Flexible liner is by far the simplest and can be replaced in future if needed. I'd open the corners just enough to help guide the liner through, then replace the bricks.
Many thanks for your advice! We will consider it while doing the final choice.
Many thanks for your advice! We will consider it while doing the final choice.
Yes new
I agree with the earlier comment about lining the flu. Cheers-
I love your vlogs, have been watching them since the beginning! For your chimney, another option would be to make a hole in the exterior wall and run a stainless steel chimney up the outside of the house, completely ignoring the existing chimney. You could run it up the chimney downstairs, inside the straight part of the existing chimney, then put in an elbow to take it through the wall and up on the outside. That is what I would do. Leave the existing chimney in place.
You're a very smart man. Can you create a pull system to lower the heavy buckets?
You could try using a cement render that is designed for heat and coat the whole brickwork. This will fill all the holes and leave it smooth enough for attaching insulation. Just my 2 cents.
I never knew why the insulation was put over the chimney? i guess it comes down.
As always Thank you for taking us on this journey with you. So Pretty! Our snow is finally starting to melt. We ll get more soon am sure lol The garden and Orchard are looking great and so pretty in the snow! I hope you can fix it!! It is such a main attraction to the house. Good luck and Blessing to you!
The metal pipe is actually rather flexible. I just had my chimney relined in my victorian house with a very similar chimney bend.
The installer pushed the liner/pipe/flue down from the roof.
I paid about £20 a meter for the pipe.
Not a professional but for a simple solution I would do a pipe off the wall and I’d even run it through the ceiling and out the side of the upstairs wall. Just so the upstairs can heat faster with an exposed heating pipe. Careful it may get really hot
In the United States we use steel wall pipe straight out the roof with no curves. You can then clean the chimney with one brush. The straight part of your chimney you can line with steel chimney pipe and the slanted part would have to be new straight pipe out the roof.
Keep the chimney......put in a liner inside of chimney and fix the bricks with motar, to fill up Cracks😊