Classic case of you get what you pay for. I’m not gonna lie, when you posted your last video of your trailer I went straight to the web site and checked them out. I found out they don’t make the trailer I need and I don’t really want a “custom” trailer. The big brands already make what I run. Anyhow I like small business and I liked the price you paid for yours. I’m a stickler for details as well. As for the paint... they have listed on the front page of their website “prime and put two coats of premium acrylic paint”. It definitely has the buyer thinking he’s getting a premium paint job. I think they could save the money wasted on the pinstripe and put that to use elsewhere as well. Stay safe out there!
I have had my Pj trailer for 5 years and have no complaints. The paint job is awesome and just now is starting to show some rust from all the road salt. I will always pay more for a better product that is proven to now its going to last for a long time.
We all get picky on expensive new things. Especially since you’ve already been doing this for a while you know what you like and don’t like comparing to your last trailer. Get the most that you can out it! Be safe!
I have a 44ft 5th wheel RV you can get mud flaps like what is on the big trucks. They fit right on to you receiver. You can get them for a dually or a standard Truck. They nice heavy rubber. I have mine set at 1 inch off the ground. It will Keep all that crap off the front of your Trailer. You can fine then. At an RV store.
Mud flaps? Rock tamer? You went with a bargain builder like Hefty... Don't expect quality control like PJ or Load Trail, Load max or higher end big tex or Gator .. You get what you pay for..
Bought a Load Trail new QC is Horrible. Just look everything over before buying. There were multiple cuts in the wiring harness, lots and lots of weld slag and mig wire tails and will come off and leave open spots in the coating for corrosion which this trailers coating is shit as well.
I'll try to hit the points you made. The lights all blinking with the 4 ways, is usually an indication of a bad ground. It you didn't have that problem with the old trailer, then it would be safe to say it is in the wiring of this one. Check the ground between the pigtail and the trailer. Is it heavy enough or a good connection. The side marker/turn light. They are wired that way because of the vehicle you are towing with. Your brake and turn lights both work off the same bulb. If you had some of the older vehicles that used the separate amber turn light and red brake light , then you could wire them from the truck to be on separate bulbs. Semi's lights are separated that way. If you look at their tail lights on a semi trailer, you will notice the brake lights are on the inner set of tail lights and the turn signal are on the outer set of tail lights. All of your tail lights are turn and brake. My 46 ft Wally~Mo car hauler works like yours. I had the wiring changed when I got it to match my F350 instead of for a semi as it was. And with that wiring set up, makes the side turn light also be a brake light. They are fine that way, because when you step on the brake and use a turn signal or the 4 ways, they still blink as needed. You said they didn't use all Dexter parts on your axles/brakes. If they are Dexter axles, one thing that Dexter states in there set up is to not jack on the axle or any part of the spring assembly You should use a block or what ever is needed and jack under the frame. I carry a few short pieces of 2 X 6 for under the jack as needed and a small heavy metal plate to set under the upright in the frame directly behind the rear set of duals to jack with. The heavy piece of channel over the taillight assembly is a good idea. They protect the lights from fragments from a blown tire. Mine being a car hauler, set lower than your trailer, so the tires are inside a heavy fender area. I've had tires blow and just beat h*ll under that fender and I expected to find the fender a mess. But being heavy steel, all it did was scratch the paint a little. Your paint on the trailer should not look like that in 12 days. I would go back and complain. Mine doesn't look that back after years of use. They either didn't put enough hardener in the paint or let it dry good between coats. Or as you suggested, didn't get the coats heavy enough to actually be what they stated. It looks like they gave it a quick dusting to get a shine and called it good.
many of these questions should have been asked prior to purchase. to me, a trailer is a tool...a tool doesn't need to be "pretty". he only concern i'd have is the lighting issue. wish you the best. :)
Light issues like you are having can be caused by a grounding problem from dirty electrical connections, sometimes even debris on the fifth wheel or gooseneck point of contact or even a faulty bulb in the sytem and will affect the grounding process. Spend some money on some larger (wider and longer) mudflaps to protect your trailer and cargo.
A quality engineered product is usually designed to minimize material content. This trailer is built by a welder, not an engineer. Where did those axles come from, Harbour Freight?
The rub rails are not weld to the pockets because if they get damaged by a forklift operator or an accident they can be cut off and easily replaced. Plus it make straightening them a lot easier with a torch and a long pry bar. That is one part that gets damaged the most.
Pierced frame-so side to side channel is welded at the root where it passes through the frame- vice "stacked" frame. Not an issue for a nuclear qualified welder- but you are getting production welds, with 3 more inches of span, and a weld at the worst/highest stress spot- so diagonal brace. Not a bad trailer- i understand the compromises- driven by the price point.
PJ trailers is the way to go. Very tough suspension, brakes, lights and everything in between are what you need for the Hotshot industry. Of course you have to ask for said upgrades. I put 25,000 lbs once on my 40 footer and did just fine Side marker always comes on when you hit the brakes, all trailers are like that
Lead sledding nice video, I’m ok with the rant, you’ve increase my awareness, I might drive up to Kaufman and Gator checkout what they have and look at differences in between same model 40’ goosenecks, Gator has powder coated paint.
As a welder who worked in a production shop. Using old material is a must to make a profit. My question is are all the trailers using that thick C-channel? That is an expensive piece to use or was it a random scrap that was left over from another project. I've seen trailers that were under built requires me to crawl underneath and weld in extra bracing. The welding and sharp edges on this trailer is horrible. So many cold welds, areas with no or skimpy welds, and in general poor welding. That piece of flat stock welded together on the bottom could've been welded and grind down to look like one long piece and would've taken less time, less material, and would've looked far better. Only time I do random jobs like that is when a customer would bring their own material and insist it be welded a specific way.
Btw. More research i do on trailers of course besides alluminum. LOADTRAIL is were its at price/quailty and weight wise, Theres a 40ft lowboy straight deck its around 7000lb , my only gripe it has fenders, which can be reoved and still the 102 wide but i know few hotshoters who use it. Its low weight and sits 8inches lower then traditonal deck over allowing for taller loads to be loaded. And less drag..
These are results from a small young growing company.. The paint thing ehh yeah cheap paint not enough coats maybe not good enough primer. Brake lights they seemed to skimp on or just didnt know what they were doing !! I think ur talking about bridging it holds trailer together. Better be over engineered then under u dont want that floping like a wet noodle going down the road. U got an awesome price. So cant complain too much.. My biggest wonder will be how do the welds hold up will they crack over time and miles with all forces on it bouncing it down the road and how will axle and brakes hold up ? These are whats important to me if the trailer is a contender to buy or not. Goodstuff thanks for review look forward to long term reviews as time and miles go on..
The smaller garage builders aren't fully versed with DOT requirements. For instances you're missing forward amber markers usually right around the corner of that front round side
I asked them about that and they said since a DRW truck would block it it’s not needed, I have no clue if they are actually needed or not but I was going to start looking that up
Tow Piglet on mine the side markers after the last axle are red ... most folks that add chickens lights afterwards go amber all the way back ... technically tho lights after the last axle are suppose to be red ... but you'll never really get hit on them ... and yes you're see semi's that have amber except their axles usually slide so the last marker is red ...
Tow Piglet better safe than sorry ... most places won't say anything ... except there's places like Houston that will and it's a 380$ fine or more ... what 25$ to install ....
Your getting feedback on your lights flashing from a bad ground. I agree with you its definitely not a quality trailer. Did you not look at it before you purchased it? Or at least a demo before you ordered it?
And the worst thing about a 40' trailer is the overhang behind the axles which makes the back swing very wide and cover lots of ground when making a corner.
You're 100 percent correct, when I first started driving mine I took out a fence with the tail. Now I watch it like a Hawk! You have to be careful at truck stops with it also. I know a guy that damaged a big truck trying to park.
Well if you always buy the cheapest possible trailer, your going to find things you don’t like. Cheap welder aren’t good and good welders are not cheap. Heavier built trailers last longer, by flexing less under stress. I was also a structural welder at my last employment, I personally would have liked to see rectangle tubing across the rear, so we agree there!
Line x or rhino liner will help with the paint problem only downy is it will add more weight to the trailer, the rest is a classic case of you get what you pay for brother.
If you're that much of a stickler for a trailer when you bought it you should have looked in the all the paint specifications in this promise specifications and the specifications on the trailer. And if you're that much of a stickler you need to do your research before you buy and spend that kind of money on something that's going to you're going to have to carry a spray paint can with you wherever you go.
Your ICC lights blink cause you have a bad ground...I build trailers out in the dirt and gravel,and yes they should've done a cleaner build... getting so bad you have to find out if your trailer is built on a Monday or Friday. .
Sooo, pricing out what it would cost to “improve” the things that are lacking , will you still be saving on the price? That’s a way of looking at it I guess .... buying a cheaper trailer , but then modding it out yourself... save in the long run vs having paid full price to the other guys ...
Tow Piglet scary that’s what I’ve been noticing on a lot of video reviews of trailers .... I mean if you can get the trailer from there for 10K and the. Spend 4K making sure it’s good to go... the other places I’ve seen are close to $17K-$20K for the trailers I want ... and then ya still have to do a lil work on them....
After watching the video that you previously posted, I was all hyper on Hefty trailer. So it's difficult for me to turn around. What I would do is take into consideration the five things that you mention and ask Hefty to make changes in the order of the trailer-- should I buy a trailer.
Hey TP. I’m getting another insurance quote. They are asking for the average and max value per load. Not what we get paid but the actual value of the cargo. How is one to determine this?
Tow Piglet that’s what I tried to explain to the under writer. We are just carriers. That info is for the the shipper and receiver. If we were private carriers, it might be different. Thanks and I think these are all legit concerns in the video. I hope you can cover the cost of trailer and move on and grab another big Tex. More expensive but like you were saying. Pay for what you get in this case.
Thanks for the video TP. I know this was a rant video and you’ve probably already thought about solutions for the small stuff. For the paint chipping in the front you could put a coat of POR-15 or Line X on it. Both would remain black and hold up much better than paint. The extra weight of the support angles is a trade off worth making, IMO. You mentioned that Big Tex doesn’t use those but they may be using heavier gauge steel in the rest of it so it’s not needed. The lighter weight with the support angles probably weighs less overall. Just an assumption of course. I would be much more concerned with how well it holds up over time with the daily abuses of hot shot hauling. Good luck with your new trailer man. I hope you do very well with it. Keep those videos coming, we all look forward to them.
@@TowPiglet I got a killer coffee buzz and about 800 miles in front of me I'm just cuttin up! Cool trailer though legacy good stuff you got one of a kind brother you are bad to the bone!
Tow Piglet - I want a video going over the GVWR or this trailer. Let's go over exactly how much you can load and the weight of the trailer itself. You haven't shown the VIN sticker with weight rating or nothing. Let's get into the real pros & cons of the new 40ft vs old trailer. Also why didn't you get electric over hydraulic disc brakes?
I had EOH on my 36 and had nothing but problems. Lines getting torn loosing all my fluid not being able to to stop, parts were hard to find and repair screw that
@@TowPiglet I've had mine since 2014 and have not had one single problem with any part of the EoH system. Changed brake pads and brake fluid but that's it... So what about the ratings of the new trailer and your load capacity? Very interested in knowing the specs
I have electric over hydraulic on mine and have never had any problems with that aspect of it. My only real problem has been seals on the oil bath hubs. I've only had a brake line get tore loose one time and that was caused by my load. I transport cars and part of an exhaust system came loose on a car I had in the belly and hit the brake line. it could just as well have torn off wiring for electric brakes.
@@happypappy6371 had same problem with oil baths so I switch from oil to grease and problem solved. Nationwide in Houston recommend me to run the grease by the way!
I have been looking at new 24' GN low profile trailer to tow my cab tractor on. I have a Big Tex dealer near me but leaning toward trying a Gatormade trailer.
If I know for sure exactly how much other 40ft trailers weigh that’s all that matters. That and price actually bit in all honesty yes because my 36 air ride was on its last leg
I know this is a year later, but good to know. Looking at a Diamond C myself. Pricey, but I think it'll be worth it. Main use is for hauling equipment for mine and my dads construction company, but im thinking of doing some hotshot stuff on the side as well.
They probably put those corner gussets on because the deck was flexing, or perhaps cracking somewhere. You don't know what the engineering requirements are for the materials that they used so unless you see something that is ridiculously obvious, don't second-guess the engineers.
Alex any opinion on ALUMINUM trailer for Ram 2500 hot shot? I’m trying to maximize load weights by off setting weight of trailer for non cdl... thanks!
Heck yeah, I've called a couple more trailer places and they tell me either really high prices or they don't make it or my biggest frustration we only make them we don't sell direct to consumers. Wtf!?!? Why not?? That means I as the consumer have to pay more!! At least with Hefty I didn't have any of that they always answer yes we can do that
Out of all your videos, this might be the one that I have to question you about. Do you plan on keeping it? Does it get the job done? Could you have designed it better yourself?
I feel sorry for anyone that already ordered one from hefty by watching your previous video titled "5 things to like about my new 40ft" 🙁 Only to wake up and watch this video...🤐😂
Hey bud. Love the videos. I have a 40ft 22gn from bigtex. My marker lights come on with my brake lights. I thought it was messed up and the dealer told me that that's just how they work...
Also Piglet even tho you're staying under that 26,001 lbs threshold for cdl requirement ... the length 40ft ... that requires a cdl ... it's a not frequently talked about ... but that's why with the larger builders the longest you probably could've gotten was 28' ... maybe 🤷🏻♂️
I called DAT ... ok the length doesn't mean CDL ... HOWEVER ... HOWEVER ... rule of thumb is that once you get up there in length the gvwr rating will set you over that 26,0001 lbs ... you had yours specially made tho with lighter axles too ...
I went to the Highway Patrol station in NC to ask specific questions, they are also the DMV officers in the State. Asked the question about my Ram 3500 truck and 42' GN horse trailer. A patrolman told me that I could tow with GVWR up to 26k and trailer up to 53' in length without CDL.
Dude I like your videos. But honestly you are the only person I have heard complain about something being over built. I can see the fit and finish and what not, but I would rather have my trailer be over built than under. At least if something happens you can’t say it’s because there should have been a brace there. If someone is so concerned about a couple hundred pounds of metal bracing, than go get a CDL.
I agree, all of that is bs but you do get what you pay for. But time, effort, and money will fix that starter kit of a trailer. Throw a nice full width mudflap on your truc. Rhino line your trailer nose . Rewire correctly and all l.e.d.s. And replace those b.s angles with triangle gussets with holes
Tow, you've been out of the sun tooooo long. Sorry 'bout your new trailer, I too get picky about things I pay blood, sweat n tears for. The angle brackets may be holding up the cross member if it is not punched thru I beam and what is that 2" piece that is scabbed together for anyway? Did they do your DOT Trailer Inspection for you before you left the lot? I saw many good welds and some, let's just say, shaky, they should be smooth. would like to see more pics of how the axles are fitted and the metal workmanship holding that critical piece together. You ask for opinion, and I have one too, if it were mine I would let them have it back, even if I had to deadhead cross country. I would never rest not knowing if I was safe or not???? that should not be too much to ask of them, especially after all the free advertisement you've given them. Heck, they may come get it to stop the free ads, RANT, from a raving hotshot. They obviously don't know what Piglets eat. wish I could help, you've got my number if you get tired of screaming at your Ghostpilot.
Love your videos and I learned alot so dont think I'm being ignorant, but why would you PURCHASE that trailer then look at it in detail and pick it apart...a few of the issues you have problems with were obvious sight issues at the dealership.. as far as the issue with the shitty paint, you couldn't of known until after you bought it...
Nobody could of made a trailer when you tried to order it. This guys did it for you. So you shouldn't complain much. It is what they're were able to put it together for the price.
Dude, you need to get your CDL and stop messing around. Buy a quality trailer and cry once. There are places you can cheap out but you can't cheap out on the things that make you your living.
Unfortunately Looking like another trailer is in your future Hopefully you can sell it before it start costing you lots of money Hopefully you still have the big tex or a JR for the back up
You have a right to be pissed about that corrosion after just a couple of weeks - surely the builder would realize those areas that get the exposure to rocks, salt, water should have some type of protective coating. And the framework does look crude, but overbuilt is better than weakness, even if it means more weight. So, what is the answer? Live with it and move on, or try to get some help from where you bought it? Maybe they'd let you trade it in for a better model.
@@TowPiglet yes sir, loved to find a '17 w/30k on miles so when I sell/trade in December w/90k on odometer. 90k will be easier to 'stomach' I believe with prayerfully a minimum of $6k toward next low mileage Ram. I think we have to stay with the low mileage version because soon as you buy a new one, as you drive off the lot you know $8,000 -10,000 just went out the window, so low mileage one, you get the cake instead of all that icing. I believe I'm thinking right😊 got to be disciplined though to Let It Go in December.
The quality of the trailer and the the places you know should have been welded Are definitely not going to be okay why haven’t you taken the trailer back to have it fixed properly while it still new
You have two light weight axles, so yes your trailer was over built. What’s the gvwr on your trailer? Not even sure why you went gooseneck. You do sound a little picky. I don’t care if it’s pretty, I care that it’s built to last and won’t break. My last trailer I bought, the welds started breaking right away. I had to take it to a shop I trusted and add all kinds of welds, which messes up the paint.
Tow Piglet - Wow! That’s a 40ft with that low of a capacity? Do you have dedicated customers to retain the light weight freight? If you went with a bumper pull, your trailer would of been much lighter.
Classic case of you get what you pay for. I’m not gonna lie, when you posted your last video of your trailer I went straight to the web site and checked them out. I found out they don’t make the trailer I need and I don’t really want a “custom” trailer. The big brands already make what I run. Anyhow I like small business and I liked the price you paid for yours.
I’m a stickler for details as well. As for the paint... they have listed on the front page of their website “prime and put two coats of premium acrylic paint”. It definitely has the buyer thinking he’s getting a premium paint job. I think they could save the money wasted on the pinstripe and put that to use elsewhere as well.
Stay safe out there!
Dude exactly!! I laughed when I saw the pinstripe, excellent comment
Tow Piglet btw what happened to your driver door?!?! 🤦♂️
Adam Smith that’s a story for a different day ;)
Tow Piglet 👍
I have had my Pj trailer for 5 years and have no complaints. The paint job is awesome and just now is starting to show some rust from all the road salt. I will always pay more for a better product that is proven to now its going to last for a long time.
We all get picky on expensive new things. Especially since you’ve already been doing this for a while you know what you like and don’t like comparing to your last trailer. Get the most that you can out it!
Be safe!
I pull a 40' Big Tex 22GN and a Kaufman EZ4. Both have side blinkers that light up with the brakes like yours.
I have a 44ft 5th wheel RV you can get mud flaps like what is on the big trucks.
They fit right on to you receiver. You can get them for a dually or a standard
Truck. They nice heavy rubber. I have mine set at 1 inch off the ground. It will
Keep all that crap off the front of your
Trailer. You can fine then. At an RV store.
Mud flaps? Rock tamer? You went with a bargain builder like Hefty... Don't expect quality control like PJ or Load Trail, Load max or higher end big tex or Gator .. You get what you pay for..
Not sure what you mean? I installed those mud flaps myself
Bigtex & PJ are owned by one company and lack quality control too, my next trailer might be a loadtrail though
Bought a Load Trail new QC is Horrible. Just look everything over before buying. There were multiple cuts in the wiring harness, lots and lots of weld slag and mig wire tails and will come off and leave open spots in the coating for corrosion which this trailers coating is shit as well.
@@TowPiglet have a PJ and the paint job is impeccable. don't do as many miles as you but still
I'll try to hit the points you made.
The lights all blinking with the 4 ways, is usually an indication of a bad ground. It you didn't have that problem with the old trailer, then it would be safe to say it is in the wiring of this one. Check the ground between the pigtail and the trailer. Is it heavy enough or a good connection.
The side marker/turn light. They are wired that way because of the vehicle you are towing with. Your brake and turn lights both work off the same bulb. If you had some of the older vehicles that used the separate amber turn light and red brake light , then you could wire them from the truck to be on separate bulbs. Semi's lights are separated that way. If you look at their tail lights on a semi trailer, you will notice the brake lights are on the inner set of tail lights and the turn signal are on the outer set of tail lights. All of your tail lights are turn and brake. My 46 ft Wally~Mo car hauler works like yours. I had the wiring changed when I got it to match my F350 instead of for a semi as it was. And with that wiring set up, makes the side turn light also be a brake light. They are fine that way, because when you step on the brake and use a turn signal or the 4 ways, they still blink as needed.
You said they didn't use all Dexter parts on your axles/brakes. If they are Dexter axles, one thing that Dexter states in there set up is to not jack on the axle or any part of the spring assembly You should use a block or what ever is needed and jack under the frame. I carry a few short pieces of 2 X 6 for under the jack as needed and a small heavy metal plate to set under the upright in the frame directly behind the rear set of duals to jack with.
The heavy piece of channel over the taillight assembly is a good idea. They protect the lights from fragments from a blown tire. Mine being a car hauler, set lower than your trailer, so the tires are inside a heavy fender area. I've had tires blow and just beat h*ll under that fender and I expected to find the fender a mess. But being heavy steel, all it did was scratch the paint a little.
Your paint on the trailer should not look like that in 12 days. I would go back and complain. Mine doesn't look that back after years of use. They either didn't put enough hardener in the paint or let it dry good between coats. Or as you suggested, didn't get the coats heavy enough to actually be what they stated. It looks like they gave it a quick dusting to get a shine and called it good.
Thank you so much, really good comment
Tow piglet how can I get ahold of hefty trailers. Called there website number always get no answer or voicemail ?
many of these questions should have been asked prior to purchase. to me, a trailer is a tool...a tool doesn't need to be "pretty". he only concern i'd have is the lighting issue. wish you the best. :)
Support braces or gussets are what you're looking at along the main beam.
Light issues like you are having can be caused by a grounding problem from dirty electrical connections, sometimes even debris on the fifth wheel or gooseneck point of contact or even a faulty bulb in the sytem and will affect the grounding process. Spend some money on some larger (wider and longer) mudflaps to protect your trailer and cargo.
A quality engineered product is usually designed to minimize material content. This trailer is built by a welder, not an engineer. Where did those axles come from, Harbour Freight?
Lmao exactly
Have them spray that black rubber like truck bed liner or under body spray on the front of the trailer.
The rub rails are not weld to the pockets because if they get damaged by a forklift operator or an accident they can be cut off and easily replaced. Plus it make straightening them a lot easier with a torch and a long pry bar. That is one part that gets damaged the most.
Linex on the trailer nose seems to be a no brainer
The deck is probably the same for your tandem vs a tandem dualy. If you tow tractors the weight would likely be on the edges, reason for the braces
Pierced frame-so side to side channel is welded at the root where it passes through the frame- vice "stacked" frame. Not an issue for a nuclear qualified welder- but you are getting production welds, with 3 more inches of span, and a weld at the worst/highest stress spot- so diagonal brace. Not a bad trailer- i understand the compromises- driven by the price point.
You can never be over built .under built yes
What is the actual empty weight of this trailer?
PJ trailers is the way to go. Very tough suspension, brakes, lights and everything in between are what you need for the Hotshot industry. Of course you have to ask for said upgrades. I put 25,000 lbs once on my 40 footer and did just fine
Side marker always comes on when you hit the brakes, all trailers are like that
Great video Alex
Lead sledding nice video, I’m ok with the rant, you’ve increase my awareness, I might drive up to Kaufman and Gator checkout what they have and look at differences in between same model 40’ goosenecks, Gator has powder coated paint.
How do you keep damaging your truck doors?
Lol long story
Stop at an Autozone and grab some 3M rubberized undercoat or duplicolor bed armor and take up front and spray several coats.
Angle iron support brackets
As a welder who worked in a production shop. Using old material is a must to make a profit. My question is are all the trailers using that thick C-channel? That is an expensive piece to use or was it a random scrap that was left over from another project. I've seen trailers that were under built requires me to crawl underneath and weld in extra bracing.
The welding and sharp edges on this trailer is horrible. So many cold welds, areas with no or skimpy welds, and in general poor welding. That piece of flat stock welded together on the bottom could've been welded and grind down to look like one long piece and would've taken less time, less material, and would've looked far better. Only time I do random jobs like that is when a customer would bring their own material and insist it be welded a specific way.
Looks like you running cooper at3-Xlt,s. How do you like them
Really good
Btw. More research i do on trailers of course besides alluminum. LOADTRAIL is were its at price/quailty and weight wise, Theres a 40ft lowboy straight deck its around 7000lb , my only gripe it has fenders, which can be reoved and still the 102 wide but i know few hotshoters who use it. Its low weight and sits 8inches lower then traditonal deck over allowing for taller loads to be loaded. And less drag..
good assessment bro
These are results from a small young growing company.. The paint thing ehh yeah cheap paint not enough coats maybe not good enough primer. Brake lights they seemed to skimp on or just didnt know what they were doing !! I think ur talking about bridging it holds trailer together. Better be over engineered then under u dont want that floping like a wet noodle going down the road. U got an awesome price. So cant complain too much.. My biggest wonder will be how do the welds hold up will they crack over time and miles with all forces on it bouncing it down the road and how will axle and brakes hold up ? These are whats important to me if the trailer is a contender to buy or not. Goodstuff thanks for review look forward to long term reviews as time and miles go on..
The smaller garage builders aren't fully versed with DOT requirements. For instances you're missing forward amber markers usually right around the corner of that front round side
I asked them about that and they said since a DRW truck would block it it’s not needed, I have no clue if they are actually needed or not but I was going to start looking that up
Tow Piglet you're even see them on the 8' covered trailers ... it's a requirement for commercial hauling
Then I’ll cut a hole and install them, thank you
Tow Piglet on mine the side markers after the last axle are red ... most folks that add chickens lights afterwards go amber all the way back ... technically tho lights after the last axle are suppose to be red ... but you'll never really get hit on them ... and yes you're see semi's that have amber except their axles usually slide so the last marker is red ...
Tow Piglet better safe than sorry ... most places won't say anything ... except there's places like Houston that will and it's a 380$ fine or more ... what 25$ to install ....
Your getting feedback on your lights flashing from a bad ground. I agree with you its definitely not a quality trailer. Did you not look at it before you purchased it? Or at least a demo before you ordered it?
And the worst thing about a 40' trailer is the overhang behind the axles which makes the back swing very wide and cover lots of ground when making a corner.
You're 100 percent correct, when I first started driving mine I took out a fence with the tail. Now I watch it like a Hawk! You have to be careful at truck stops with it also. I know a guy that damaged a big truck trying to park.
Well if you always buy the cheapest possible trailer, your going to find things you don’t like. Cheap welder aren’t good and good welders are not cheap. Heavier built trailers last longer, by flexing less under stress. I was also a structural welder at my last employment, I personally would have liked to see rectangle tubing across the rear, so we agree there!
Quick question what's your dry weight of truck and trailer??? And how much weight can u haul?? With out going over 26001lbs
16k empty
10k for loads
@@TowPiglet ok
Line x or rhino liner will help with the paint problem only downy is it will add more weight to the trailer, the rest is a classic case of you get what you pay for brother.
Not that you want to spend more money, you should not have to.
But what about using that spray in bed liner stuff.
If you're that much of a stickler for a trailer when you bought it you should have looked in the all the paint specifications in this promise specifications and the specifications on the trailer. And if you're that much of a stickler you need to do your research before you buy and spend that kind of money on something that's going to you're going to have to carry a spray paint can with you wherever you go.
Yes my side blinker comes on with the brake ...
Dang really, do semi trailers have this problem also?
Tow Piglet my side markers are three wires ... turn and brake then ground 🤷🏻♂️
Your ICC lights blink cause you have a bad ground...I build trailers out in the dirt and gravel,and yes they should've done a cleaner build... getting so bad you have to find out if your trailer is built on a Monday or Friday. .
Talk with PJ Trailers last night about a 40ft and I was thinking about the 10000lbs axles single tire double axle. What do you think about that setup?
Sooo, pricing out what it would cost to “improve” the things that are lacking , will you still be saving on the price? That’s a way of looking at it I guess .... buying a cheaper trailer , but then modding it out yourself... save in the long run vs having paid full price to the other guys ...
Other guys would have the same problems
Tow Piglet scary that’s what I’ve been noticing on a lot of video reviews of trailers .... I mean if you can get the trailer from there for 10K and the. Spend 4K making sure it’s good to go... the other places I’ve seen are close to $17K-$20K for the trailers I want ... and then ya still have to do a lil work on them....
What brand is it so we know what to avoid?
Hefty
Get the front and any other place that is going to see road rash Line-X'd. I would say your tail lights problem is a grounding issue.?
Lights have a shorted wire or loose/insufficient ground.
After watching the video that you previously posted, I was all hyper on Hefty trailer. So it's difficult for me to turn around. What I would do is take into consideration the five things that you mention and ask Hefty to make changes in the order of the trailer-- should I buy a trailer.
I went with a repo Gator and saved $5K. It's virtually brand new. I doubt the guy ever hauled a load with it.
you must use ram with double tires in a rare < you ram not enough power
Your not being to picky and your funny too. Keep it coming.
Hey TP. I’m getting another insurance quote. They are asking for the average and max value per load. Not what we get paid but the actual value of the cargo. How is one to determine this?
I have no idea, I’ve never been asked that, most of the time I don’t know how much the loads are worth
Tow Piglet that’s what I tried to explain to the under writer. We are just carriers. That info is for the the shipper and receiver. If we were private carriers, it might be different. Thanks and I think these are all legit concerns in the video. I hope you can cover the cost of trailer and move on and grab another big Tex. More expensive but like you were saying. Pay for what you get in this case.
Thanks for the video TP. I know this was a rant video and you’ve probably already thought about solutions for the small stuff. For the paint chipping in the front you could put a coat of POR-15 or Line X on it. Both would remain black and hold up much better than paint.
The extra weight of the support angles is a trade off worth making, IMO. You mentioned that Big Tex doesn’t use those but they may be using heavier gauge steel in the rest of it so it’s not needed. The lighter weight with the support angles probably weighs less overall. Just an assumption of course.
I would be much more concerned with how well it holds up over time with the daily abuses of hot shot hauling.
Good luck with your new trailer man. I hope you do very well with it. Keep those videos coming, we all look forward to them.
Thanks man, great comments
@@TowPiglet I got a killer coffee buzz and about 800 miles in front of me I'm just cuttin up! Cool trailer though legacy good stuff you got one of a kind brother you are bad to the bone!
Have you thought of roll on bed liner along the leading edge?
Tow Piglet - I want a video going over the GVWR or this trailer. Let's go over exactly how much you can load and the weight of the trailer itself. You haven't shown the VIN sticker with weight rating or nothing. Let's get into the real pros & cons of the new 40ft vs old trailer. Also why didn't you get electric over hydraulic disc brakes?
I had EOH on my 36 and had nothing but problems. Lines getting torn loosing all my fluid not being able to to stop, parts were hard to find and repair screw that
@@TowPiglet I've had mine since 2014 and have not had one single problem with any part of the EoH system. Changed brake pads and brake fluid but that's it... So what about the ratings of the new trailer and your load capacity? Very interested in knowing the specs
I have electric over hydraulic on mine and have never had any problems with that aspect of it. My only real problem has been seals on the oil bath hubs. I've only had a brake line get tore loose one time and that was caused by my load. I transport cars and part of an exhaust system came loose on a car I had in the belly and hit the brake line. it could just as well have torn off wiring for electric brakes.
@@happypappy6371 had same problem with oil baths so I switch from oil to grease and problem solved. Nationwide in Houston recommend me to run the grease by the way!
Happy Pappy email me pics of your brake system towpiglet@gmail.com
Try POR 15.. heard its good stuff. Great vid btw
My big Tex paint did the same.
They put all those cosmetic issues in to divert attention from the dents in your truck.
I have been looking at new 24' GN low profile trailer to tow my cab tractor on. I have a Big Tex dealer near me but leaning toward trying a Gatormade trailer.
Which one is cheaper?
Then buy that, at that length it doesn’t really make a difference which one you go with
@@TowPiglet - Matters with quality and dependability
@@TowPiglet - I have priced the Gatormade, looked at Big tex on the lot with prices listed. Seem to be close in price
Chris M how much weight will you be hauling
Hi,
If you were to do it over again would you make the same choice about this trailer?
If I know for sure exactly how much other 40ft trailers weigh that’s all that matters. That and price actually bit in all honesty yes because my 36 air ride was on its last leg
Thank you for your answer! I’m waiting for your next video.
Maybe, look at the trailer before buying it.
4 semi truck mudflaps hung at the back bumper of the pickup will control the rock chipping.
If you want to buy one trailer and not need or want to buy again then get a Diamond C. Hands down the best quality on the market
I know this is a year later, but good to know. Looking at a Diamond C myself. Pricey, but I think it'll be worth it. Main use is for hauling equipment for mine and my dads construction company, but im thinking of doing some hotshot stuff on the side as well.
They probably put those corner gussets on because the deck was flexing, or perhaps cracking somewhere.
You don't know what the engineering requirements are for the materials that they used so unless you see something that is ridiculously obvious, don't second-guess the engineers.
Was your length under 65’ with your 40’ trailer?
Yes
Alex any opinion on ALUMINUM trailer for Ram 2500 hot shot? I’m trying to maximize load weights by off setting weight of trailer for non cdl... thanks!
Too expensive not worth it
Thanks for quick reply. Are you feeling a bit better about your new 40’ since your video on your dislikes? ...do you recommend your trailer?
Heck yeah, I've called a couple more trailer places and they tell me either really high prices or they don't make it or my biggest frustration we only make them we don't sell direct to consumers. Wtf!?!? Why not?? That means I as the consumer have to pay more!! At least with Hefty I didn't have any of that they always answer yes we can do that
Tow Piglet And seems your only gripe it the paint chips, yea?
Basically yeah it's working good right now making me money so yeah I'd probably buy from Hefty again either way
You get what you pay for. Go with a Diamond C if you want a good trailer
Any particular reason why you wanted your deck painted other than aesthetics?
Mostly aesthetic but also it should prevent some water absorption/rot and hopefully the boards last longer because of it
@@TowPiglet gotcha, nice tip!
Out of all your videos, this might be the one that I have to question you about. Do you plan on keeping it? Does it get the job done? Could you have designed it better yourself?
Yes I really feel like I could of designed it better, I will be keeping it for sure
I feel sorry for anyone that already ordered one from hefty by watching your previous video titled "5 things to like about my new 40ft" 🙁 Only to wake up and watch this video...🤐😂
Should have bought a Gator.
Quality vs price.
Powdercoat vs paint.
1:57 WTF LMAOOOOOOO GHAHAHHAHAHAHAA
Hey bud. Love the videos. I have a 40ft 22gn from bigtex. My marker lights come on with my brake lights. I thought it was messed up and the dealer told me that that's just how they work...
Thank you so much
cool video
Also Piglet even tho you're staying under that 26,001 lbs threshold for cdl requirement ... the length 40ft ... that requires a cdl ... it's a not frequently talked about ... but that's why with the larger builders the longest you probably could've gotten was 28' ... maybe 🤷🏻♂️
Can you send me a link because I searched and searched and couldn’t find anything for length it’s always weight/gvwr/gcwr
Tow Piglet I'll ask ... I had DAT do my authority ... it was them that informed me about that small tidbit ... them and a PJ dealer in Lubbock
Fake news!! Length has nothing to do with it he is fine at 40'
I called DAT ... ok the length doesn't mean CDL ... HOWEVER ... HOWEVER ... rule of thumb is that once you get up there in length the gvwr rating will set you over that 26,0001 lbs ... you had yours specially made tho with lighter axles too ...
I went to the Highway Patrol station in NC to ask specific questions, they are also the DMV officers in the State. Asked the question about my Ram 3500 truck and 42' GN horse trailer. A patrolman told me that I could tow with GVWR up to 26k and trailer up to 53' in length without CDL.
Amber ABS light should come on on the trailer
Are you a non cdl driver ? You are not hauling with a dually but you have a 40ft trailer ? Why didn’t you get a dually if your a cdl driver .
Dude I like your videos. But honestly you are the only person I have heard complain about something being over built. I can see the fit and finish and what not, but I would rather have my trailer be over built than under. At least if something happens you can’t say it’s because there should have been a brace there. If someone is so concerned about a couple hundred pounds of metal bracing, than go get a CDL.
It is what they use to de-Ice the roads
Calcium chloride is very corrosive
Enjoy the videos 👍 when u spend money on something you want it to be nice and last. Not picky at all I'd do the samething
I agree, all of that is bs but you do get what you pay for.
But time, effort, and money will fix that starter kit of a trailer.
Throw a nice full width mudflap on your truc.
Rhino line your trailer nose .
Rewire correctly and all l.e.d.s.
And replace those b.s angles with triangle gussets with holes
Looks good to me
Tow, you've been out of the sun tooooo long. Sorry 'bout your new trailer, I too get picky about things I pay blood, sweat n tears for. The angle brackets may be holding up the cross member if it is not punched thru I beam and what is that 2" piece that is scabbed together for anyway? Did they do your DOT Trailer Inspection for you before you left the lot? I saw many good welds and some, let's just say, shaky, they should be smooth. would like to see more pics of how the axles are fitted and the metal workmanship holding that critical piece together. You ask for opinion, and I have one too, if it were mine I would let them have it back, even if I had to deadhead cross country. I would never rest not knowing if I was safe or not???? that should not be too much to ask of them, especially after all the free advertisement you've given them. Heck, they may come get it to stop the free ads, RANT, from a raving hotshot. They obviously don't know what Piglets eat. wish I could help, you've got my number if you get tired of screaming at your Ghostpilot.
You want a show trailer or a work trailer
do u work with PD diesel power ? pretty sure ur truck was in his shop in one of his last couple videos ?? great content by the way
No sir, I watch him on UA-cam and that’s about it
You are right I dont like the trailer finish and unecessery add ons !
And it looks like you have bad grounding!!
Love your videos and I learned alot so dont think I'm being ignorant, but why would you PURCHASE that trailer then look at it in detail and pick it apart...a few of the issues you have problems with were obvious sight issues at the dealership.. as far as the issue with the shitty paint, you couldn't of known until after you bought it...
I think you have a spot on your dress
Can you provide a time stamp
Nobody could of made a trailer when you tried to order it. This guys did it for you. So you shouldn't complain much. It is what they're were able to put it together for the price.
Man and all the runs in the paint. Damn i wouldn't of let my paint jobs go out like that.
Dude, you need to get your CDL and stop messing around. Buy a quality trailer and cry once. There are places you can cheap out but you can't cheap out on the things that make you your living.
Great video I’m a new subscriber. What is the best 40ft trailer brand to buy? Top price?
From what I've heard either load max or diamond c
Good stuff
Unfortunately
Looking like another trailer is in your future
Hopefully you can sell it before it start costing you lots of money
Hopefully you still have the big tex or a JR for the back up
I still have my 36 its getting fixed up
2 words. Ryon lineing. They stray that area. Prevents rust as well
You have a right to be pissed about that corrosion after just a couple of weeks - surely the builder would realize those areas that get the exposure to rocks, salt, water should have some type of protective coating. And the framework does look crude, but overbuilt is better than weakness, even if it means more weight. So, what is the answer? Live with it and move on, or try to get some help from where you bought it? Maybe they'd let you trade it in for a better model.
Hit up Walmart for a couple of gallons of bedliner and go to town on that trailer...
Or spray on undercoating.
Too Picky
Just make some money 💰 with it
Love the videos
That's what I've realized
You do get what you pay for.
By the way you did get the comment on Enterprise not being able to go over to Landstar?
Yeah I saw that I’m shocked man, you’re looking for a used truck instead right
@@TowPiglet yes sir, loved to find a '17 w/30k on miles so when I sell/trade in December w/90k on odometer. 90k will be easier to 'stomach' I believe with prayerfully a minimum of $6k toward next low mileage Ram. I think we have to stay with the low mileage version because soon as you buy a new one, as you drive off the lot you know $8,000 -10,000 just went out the window, so low mileage one, you get the cake instead of all that icing. I believe I'm thinking right😊 got to be disciplined though to Let It Go in December.
Sounds like a plan, let me know if there’s anything I can do
@@TowPiglet yessir, pray!
The quality of the trailer and the the places you know should have been welded
Are definitely not going to be okay
why haven’t you taken the trailer back to have it fixed properly while it still new
I might later
Made in usa where people value cheap stuff and that trailer is a consequence of that mentality, the same as houses, made to be repaired constantly.
You have two light weight axles, so yes your trailer was over built. What’s the gvwr on your trailer? Not even sure why you went gooseneck.
You do sound a little picky. I don’t care if it’s pretty, I care that it’s built to last and won’t break.
My last trailer I bought, the welds started breaking right away. I had to take it to a shop I trusted and add all kinds of welds, which messes up the paint.
13,700
Tow Piglet - Wow! That’s a 40ft with that low of a capacity? Do you have dedicated customers to retain the light weight freight? If you went with a bumper pull, your trailer would of been much lighter.
Diamond C