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Best Ender 3 V2 Upgrades 🔥 [ 2021 - Updated List ]
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- Опубліковано 11 бер 2021
- Best Ender 3 V2 Upgrades. These are the best upgrades, and mods you can do to your 3D printer to get the highest quality prints out of it, in my opinion. Let me know if you think I left any important ones out. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask them in the comments below, or join our discord.
Discord Server:
/ discord
Bitcoin Wallet:
bc1q9tk26lwzg3qnmh85ez4kxqtams6f6cu433mnxu
--------3D Printer Upgrades & Mods--------
Ender 3 V2:
amzn.to/3jFduQ4
Bltouch Kit:
amzn.to/375q1HC
EZABL From TH3D:
www.th3dstudio...
Raspberry Pi 4 2GB:
amzn.to/2Nn4DX6
Raspberry Pi 4 Full Starter Kit:
amzn.to/2OlAQyC
USB Webcam used for Raspberry Pi:
amzn.to/3jMuZ0S
TH3D ezFlex PEI Bed Sheet:
www.th3dstudio...
Creality Direct Drive Upgrade Kit:
amzn.to/3d5aYl6
Upgraded Bed Springs:
amzn.to/3aVGyPr
Extra .4 Nozzle Kit:
amzn.to/3b0Zex8
Digital Calipers:
amzn.to/3qhfTmw
Monitor cable for Raspberry Pi:
amzn.to/3jI2i5b
40mm LED Fans for Raspberry Pi:
amzn.to/2Z6bxD1
TH3D Upgraded Extruder:
www.th3dstudio...
TH3D PTFE Tough Tube:
www.th3dstudio...
Desiccant Packs: (keep your filament dry)
amzn.to/3d56CKA
Air-tight Storage Container for filament:
amzn.to/3abKn3I
3D Printed Side Mount Filament Spool:
www.thingivers...
Side Mount for spool holder:
www.thingivers...
--------3D Printing Filaments--------
Black Sainsmart TPU:
amzn.to/2N0C9me
Green Sainsmart TPU:
amzn.to/3d5UQQq
White Sainsmart TPU:
amzn.to/3pcCQGc
Eryone Galaxy Sparkly Glitter PLA:
amzn.to/2YbkgU4
GIZMO Dorks PLA Pack:
amzn.to/2URZ073
Black SUNLU PLA:
amzn.to/39apN3o
White SUNLU PLA:
amzn.to/3phaafY
Some of the links listed above are affiliate links to Amazon & TH3D. This means that if you choose to purchase any of the products after clicking on the links, I will receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you. This is a small way to help support the channel, and if you choose to purchase anything it is greatly appreciated!
This printer is perfect for me because I want high quality prints but I’m also impatient and broke. I didn’t want to save forever for a $900 3D printer and I knew you could really do a lot with this once you upgraded it, so I decided to buy this and upgrade it as I went
Hate to break it to you but if you’re impatient then an ender was not the way to go lol...
@@MikeJones-mf2rt lmao
ender definitely not a way to go if you want no problem. buy a prusa for non problem start
Perfect timing as my Ender 3 V2 arrived yesterday.
Right on man! You're going to love it
How strange, I got mine 6 days ago as well.
mine came a week before yours, it already has a bl touch and rasberry pi :P
@@TheOystei yeah, I got irritated with leveling and sticking the micro-overly tiny chip in there, just ordered both those today too! Lol
So far I’ve not hated checking the level and haven’t had any major mishaps although the idea of the pi sounds interesting
Love my Ender 3v2! I've done the BLTouch, spring upgrades, boden tube upgrade, and a bed-attached camera mount.
coming from plain ender 3 I think a silent board a better bed and BL touch are all you need in terms of paid upgrades.
I think V2 already has silent board, so get the spring steel bed, BL touch and stiffer yellow springs so they don't sag and require readjustment so often. also add Octoprint/raspi
Well, I only use PLA and I'm completely satisfied with the stock configuration. I rarely have any issues with my prints. The only thing I would recommend was to replace the bed leveling springs. Other than that if you're a hobbyist you're totally fine with the rest. Just a bit of patience adjusting the bed and tweak a few Cura settings an you're good to go. I really don't see the point on trying to get the perfect setup from a modest but very capable machine. After several months reading forums posts I can only assume that there will always be some problem despite of what you modify.
"The feeding tube is too short", "the feeding tube is too long", "the tube melts", "change the nozzle", "I've changed the nozzle and now it's worse", "the springs are too loose", "they are too tight", "change the glass", "change pla brand"... And the list goes on... endlessly!
Guys, there's no perfect setup! Temperature of the room, humidity, slicer settings, small issues with the assembly, twisted cables, bed leveling, and the files themselves, etc. can influence the results.
Make sure you understand your machine and configure it the best you can. If you get into this upgrade paranoia you'll be spending almost or even more than what you would've spent on a more sofisticated and more complete printer.
That's just my opinion.
I know a little of 3D printing, just got my Ender 3 V2, but what you say seems very familiar to other hobbies I’ve been involved in over the years. Like the car scene. Guys will nickel and dime a decent platform until they end up with something that barely runs outside of a specific setup or costs almost as much as something better from the start. Sage advice you’ve given. The old adage of “K.I.S.S.” seems to apply. Keep. It. Simple. Stupid.
Thank you.
One of the best tips I have seen is to use simple table sugar and water as an adhesive on your printer, best for glass beds , the adhesion is second to none, and really works good, no rafts, skirts or brims needed. All you do is take half a teaspoon of table sugar and put in a glass, then add a few drops of water, that's all you need. You then put the sugar water mixture in your microwave and microwave it for 5 secs, no more than that.
Once you start printing you will notice that the part really sticks to the bed when the bed is hot, and comes off easily when the bed is cold.
To clean the bed simple water will dissolve the mixture and make your bed as clean as new.
For cleaning plastic residue from the glass bed ,, at the home where I live they use Vertigo Saber as a disinfectant, I find that this solvent does not harm glass and takes off all plastic residues that may be on your bed. Russ
Good tip, thanks
Thanks for the tip with the alcohol, I couldn't get my prints to stick to the bed, one treatment with the alcohol and everything works perfect
Right on :) glad it helped.
Direct drive is super important. Just throwing my 2 cents in. It improved a lot for me.
Just ordered this printer 2 mins ago. I appreciate the videos!
I have done two of those upgrades. The first is new bowden tubing (capricorn XS) and a all metal extruder. Also thanks for informing me about the problem with the bltouch. If I get one that's the first thing I am gonna fix on the bltouch. Also a great video.
Right on man, glad it was helpful!
I would also recommend getting a dual z axis kit and an all metal hotend for upgrades
The issue you described with the BL Touch wiring is caused by induction. It's a common issue and the reason why many data cables have a choke on them at the end or are shielded. Also why ethernet cables have the wiring twisted inside. Twisting the wiring helps counter the induction. My first upgrade was the springs and a Capricorn tube during setup. I am keeping my spool up top for space savings on my workbench, but have added upper and lower filament guides, so I have a nice smooth arc coming off the spool and into the extruder. The metal extruder was an early upgrade and I ordered mine before it cracked. I had a lot of print issues early on and I discovered after about 10 days that my extruder lever was cracked. The replacement arrived a few hours later. I also have several drones, though I consider them as flying still cameras and not doing any FPV. Would be interested in seeing what you have 3D printed for the drones.
Appreciate the info bro, that makes perfect sense when comparing them to ethernet cables, and other shielded cables. I agree about the space saving with the spool being on top as well. I didn't think about it until after I moved it, but liked how it is a straight shot into the extruder so ive kept mine on the side. Thats awesome you fly drones as well! I'll be posting some more drone content soon.
Is this safe? I wrapped the Bltouch cable with copper + kapton tape + electrical tape. Only the parts of the cable that are near the motherboard and next to the hotend. First I wrapped it with copper, then with kapton tape and finally with electrical tape. Pictures below.
ibb.co/SdnKh7y
ibb.co/LvzRr6d
Thanks in advance!
@@xiaominikki9315 If you are only shielding the ends, it might still be susceptible to getting some inductive interference. Probably perfectly safe as long as you aren't shorting anything together that shouldn't be.
@@YoSpiff
Thanks for the quick answer! I don't need to ground anything like in this video?
My first two recommended upgrades are a BL-Touch and a Raspberry Pi / Octoprint setup. Get the official BL Touch kit, it's plug and play. There's bios support for it and everything. My third upgrade is a better extruder and next is bed springs.
Right on bro, I think those are great picks for sure.
I wish Creality would offer an Ender 3 V2 "Premium" that I could recommend for my friends. At least to include: bed leveler, boden tubes, runout sensor, better extruder. My friends who want to get into 3d printing would pay 350 for an upgraded version. It's hard to recommend the Ender 3 V2 to them, knowing that they'll eventually need to upgrade things. At the same time, nothing else I've found on the market matches the Enders' quality overall for the same price point so I don't feel comfortable sending them to other brands or models.
I totally agree. Its kinda a tough spot for sure.
Which runout sensor do you recommend? Do you recommend a different hot end?
Ender S1 if you wanna wait and spend more
@@r8cobra 100% - I'm super excited about the S1! I wrote the above before S1 announced but S1 appears to perfectly meet my wishlist for a reliable ready-to-go printer.
just got the ender 3 v2 today. This is my first 3d printer and will be getting some of the upgrades you mentioned. great vid. :)
Thanks so much for making this video! I searched and searched but so far only found upgrade videos for prior models.
Glad I could help brother! let me know if you have any video suggestions.
@@509drone2 Thanks for the reply. I was giving your question some thought and, while getting a print ready on my own Ender 3 V2, I realized I am getting to the point where I'd like to have quieter fans. I know they exist but I don't know which are best for this printer. It's not something I want to skimp on if it means bad results, but also I don't want to spend tons of time on research. There may be others who feel the same, and might appreciate a video on quiet fan upgrades, preferably with purchase links. 😁
This was a really informative video and a really good source of information for someone just starting out of even just looking to get into 3D printing. We got the Ender3 V2 a year or so back and the bed it came with warped pretty quickly. Was kind of curious if that's a normal thing? and if the bed you use might do that in the future? Just out of curiosity.
LIked-Subscribed-Notified. Outstanding print quality on your print outs. I have an Ender 3 Pro, a Wanhao I3 that I"m upgrading. I'm getting into 3D Printing and Drones - seems like a great channel here. Thanks for sharing, and taking the time to make videos and a UA-cam channel. Keep 'em coming.
liked and subscribed. I am new to 3D printing and these little extras are exactly what I was looking for. Thanks man👍
Right on man. Glad the video was helpful.
Was just ordering and wanted to see if the auto level was a good buy! This video helped, thanks!
Very informative 👍🏻 About to get my first 3D printer and I think it'll be Ender 3 V2.
Subbed!
Right on man, I'm glad the video was helpful. Looking forward to seeing you in the community. Feel free to ask any questions you have.
Great info. Great tat. Instant sub. Thank you sir!
Just received my V2 last week. Haven't set up a place for it yet. Looking forward to using it. Already ordered a few upgrade parts and some PETG to go with the 2 PLA spools I got with it.
In order of upgrades I went, BLTouch, PEI Bed, Raspberry Pi with Octoprint, Microswiss Direct Drive snd Steel Hot end.
Definitely a good order 👌
@@509drone2 Great videos, keep up the good work.
This is super helpful. A great review of the essentials and which things are extra. Thanks for the shielding and grounding tip 👍
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate the support.
Quiet fans was high on my list. Now my V2 is almost totally silent.
Thats definitely a good upgrade I forgot to mention.
which ones did you get thats what im trying to upgrade first
For the PSU and mainboard, I re-purposed a couple of 80mm Cooltek silent fans from an old PC. May switch them to Noctuas later. The hotend fan is a Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX. The parts cooling fan is stock for now, but I have ordered a few different 5015s for a potential Hero Me 5 upgrade.
Thanks brotha 🙏 good vid !
Just ordered my v2, excited to get started 🙌
PEI: Prince Edaward Island. Little known fact, 3D printer bedsheets are their #1 export. :)
I am totally new to this and thinking about getting an Ender 3v2. Seems like most of the prints I see have fine lines. How do you get such smooth surfaces on your prints?
Thanks. Nice video.
Thanks my friend. You can see the lines a little bit in some of my prints, but the main thing is just getting your printer tuned really well. I have guides for how get your prints looking beautiful. Subscribe to the channel, and check them out :)
Looking into buying one and you gave me some great info to make my decision easier. Thank you Liked and subbed
Right on!! I appreciate the support. Let me know if you have any questions.
Anything above you is up :) Great vid some cool mods and upgrades !
Thanks 👍
I think the link for TH3D Upgraded Extruder is incorrect, can you update with the correct link? You should have one explaining how to do multi color print with the ender 3 v2, like that little red guy you have there. Great video by the way. Following most of the tips there.
Thanks for the video! I'm in the middle of implementing some of these now!
Have you had any issues regarding the x-axis belt rubbing on the sides of the pulley gear on the left? If so, I was wondering how/if you fixed it?
I align the belt perfectly then when the carriage moves it just pulls into the side of the gear.
i have the same webcam, could you provide the link for the mount aswell?
Yes! So sorry I forgot to add that in the description, thanks for mentioning that. I'll get it added asap!
Wow, I ordered and Ender 3 V2 on the morning of the 12th. Should be arriving in a day or two. Excited to get started
Right on man, you will love it! Let me know if you have any questions.
Just subscribed man. Thank you for the great information
Super helpful thank you!! Do you keep the printer in dedicated room or a lived in space?
"it's working, but twerking (it's working)" on 1.5x speed at 4:23
hi, a newbie here. Can I print PETG with the stock printer? If there are heating problems where can I place a fan to reduce those thermal concentrations?
You need to upgrade your bowden tube to ptfe and I would reconmend an all meter extruder/hotend.
Really wanting to buy the ender 3 v2 soon so this video was awesome! I really want to get into printing with TPU so I wanted to know which of these upgrades you would suggest in order to get good quality TPU prints?
Right on man, you will definitely enjoy it. For tpu I would start with the extruder & bowden tube.
What are your cura settings? Keep up the good work bro❤️
I have good settings can send you a profile for printing miniatures if you want it
@@redrockvideoproductions would be nice!
I just ordered an ender 3 v2. Would you maybe share your TPU settings you have used on the FR7 GoPro mount??
I am a total newbie in the realm of 3D printing. I am studying and trying to learn; all good information, but I have not seen anyone yet do anything in the realm of model railroading, my area of interest.. I have an awesome N-scale model railroad. I am nearing the point where I need tons of detail items, i.e. little mailboxes, fire hydrants, dumpers with trash inside, road signs, cars and trucks, etc. I was hoping 3D would be a viable answer, as to buy of of these things would out-strip of the cost of a printer. I've been to hobby shops and seen their prices. Maybe you could print something tiny (1:160 scale) just to se how the printer would handle small pieces. Can such a printer even handle tiny detail pieces? That would lie very helpful, at least to me. Great video; thanks for posting!
.. just caught a few of your videos... I'm a new 3D Printer owner who has a total of 2 prints under his belt, I appreciate your vid styles!!... FYI - Just subscribed and hit the bell!!! and on your Discord now! LOL
Right on man! Welcome to the community, and I appreciate the support!
just got my 3d in the maill tryin to find my way tooo love the video
Right on bro!
I ordered one yesterday because I got a geeetech A20 from Amazon and it came used and missing a ton of parts so I decided to swap it out for an ender 3 v2
Don’t expect a big jump in details with a Prusa but a jump in reliability and effortlessness. They are more dialed in work horses. They use them in their own printerfarm also. For more details you need to dive into the world of SLS printing resins.
This is 100% been my experience. Basically plug & play. Thanks for the comment!
The camera mount you have is awesome, do you have a link to the file for it or did you buy that?
Do you have another link for the aluminum extruder? The one in the description (at least at the time of this comment 12 Apr 21) points to a bed leveler.
Yea im sorry about that. It should be updated now, please let me know if not.
All of your TH3D links are going to the same item (bed leveling)
A few people have said that, and I have updated them once before. I'll double check them again. Sorry about that.
@@509drone2 Maybe it's the link's DNS causing the issue. Maybe TH3D is doing something wrong.
@@asai_24 I think that might be the case to be honest
I can't find a comment about it so I just do the comment myself, the technology used on the EZABL is capacitive sensing (think you mentioned temperature and was unsure), it can sense more or less all materials, while for instance, Prusa's sensor is inductive and need metal to be able to sense anything. Both are probably better than BL touch that needs to, well, touch 😁
I haven't even gotten my first printer yet so my info and opinions are solely based on about a year of web research. I will get a Prusa with the MMU as we can get it for my wife's small business so my private account balance will not be affected anyway 😂
You are correct! After learning more about the sensors myself, and getting the ezabl & having the prusa I have learned a lot more about them as well. Thanks for posting the info my friend. Let me know how your build goes once you order yours. Mine took me awhile lol.
Grounding the Shielding can definitely help if there is interference. And one of the biggest sources of interference is........ (drumroll please)......... DC motors. I'm surprised the kit doesn't come with grounding standard?
Either way cool video. I'll be ordering my new printer after I know I have enough for everyone's x-mas presents. Damn kids!
The next upgrade you should get is the micro Swiss direct drive extruder kit
I am planning to buy an Ender 3 V2 and this is a very helpful video.
Many people upgraded dual Z axis too in their best upgrades,whats your opinion?
My v2 is arriving this Wednesday it's my first printer I can't wait😊
Right on man! Sorry for the late reply. I take it you have already got your printer by now? How's it been printing?
Awesome info! Do you have a link to the Raspberry Pi case and stand you printed?
Can you make a video or post instructions on how to properly shield the BLTouch wires and ground it as well?
This is a great idea. I should have done it when I installed mine. I will make a video on this real soon. Thanks for the idea!
Never heard of this issue before. Can you describe the issue? My BLTouch works flawlessly with the standard wiring inside the loom.
@@michaellindborg1510 The symptoms vary but mostly bltouch will error out (red light in bltouch blinks) or it will misread the distance between the probe and the bed and when printing it drags the nozzle either into the bed itself or through the just printed filament in the places that it misread. Or the bltouch will fail on startup. It doesn't affect everyone i think in later controller boards that they added a Logic Level Converter to help with this problem. I have one of the first ender 3 v2's so i had this problem myself and came up with this fix for it.
@@509drone2 No problem. Thank you for considering it. :)
I'm thinking about buying my first 3d printer should i buy the Ender 3 v2
It depends on what you are looking for, but overall it is a great printer for its price.
Prototyping for simple things and printing simple things
@@thomasdaem Then it is probably a great printer for your use, i have had one for a month, and its print quality it great for things like that.
@@jogey ok. tysm for your help!
Thanks for the comment Thomas. You can't go wrong with the Ender 3 v2. If you want to save a little bit of money, the Ender 3 pro is also an extremely good choice. If you want bigger print volume, then check out the CR-10 series printers from creality. Let me know if you have any other questions!
everything on point but the last part where you said you couldn't notice a difference between pla and pla+ ... pla+ is way more stronger than regular pla.. specially SUNLU
Thanks brother! That's a very good thing to mention, thanks! I have not tested the strength of them so that didn't even cross my mind.
@@509drone2 I have been using pla+ to make prototype parts for factory machines so I should know haha. I can't keep up with the one printer I have so I'm planning to get the 3 v2.. I just wish it had dual z axis rods.
I just used your link to order the bed springs. I'm not sure if it's normal but I have to readjust the bed after every print.
Right on, I appreciate the support. If you're having to readjust the springs after every print I would suggest getting them a lot tighter. So take your bed springs and crank them all the way down, until they wont turn anymore. Then move them all back out 5 turns. Then move your Z end stop lower, so its almost touching the bed, and then re-level it. This should help a lot. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@509drone2 thank you! I'm new to 3d printing so I'm learning more as I go.
Great video sir, thanks for the links, cheers
I’m completely new to this and I’m just doing research but what size bed sheet do you have?
Right on, smart man. The bed size is 235 x 235, and 250 tall.
TH3D Upgraded Extruder wrong link.
Thanks. I'll fix it.
Link to TH3D Extruder: www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezfeed-extruderupgraded-aluminum-extruder-v2/?share=raverty
Edit: Also, as for "the best" filaments. I have landed on PLA+ as my main filament of choice. The SUNLU PLA+ is awesome, and my first choice.
Does this extruder work well with ninja flex and flexible filaments? I've not yet upgraded my extruder but I understand that might be needed to print flexibles.
@@aaronsteers yes, it works great for flexible filaments.
What did you use to mount the Camera
Great videos. Did you have to move the z-stop when replacing the glass for the PEI bed?
Thanks bro! I did have to lower it just a little bit. But it's just 2 screws, and slide it down a few mm.
no need for the z stop if youre running the bl touch
Just a few questions about the flex for the bed one if you ever have to take it off how much of a pain is it to take off? 2 does the magnet degrade overtime because of heat? Also what do you use to paint your models?
Hey Steven, thanks for the comment! Its not a pain to take it off at all (the steel sheet) the magnetic sheet that sticks to your heat bed is stuck on with some kind of M3 sticky stuff and it seems to hold up good. I have not had any issues with it at all yet. As for painting, I just use some cheap stuff from the hobby store, as im a total newb when it comes to painting still :)
Getting a mod kit coming tomorrow that has things like the aluminum tubing, upgraded springs, bltouch, boden tubing, and I think a couple other things. I've printed a couple tiny test prints but I've already scratched my bed twice because I've leveled it (using the paper method with several passes) while heated, and I think because the springs are crap they move and I scratch the bed. It's so unfortunate I already have long scratches on my bed :(
Yea scratches will happen :( You should still be able to get a decent level with the stock springs I would think though. Hopefully your new kit takes care of the issues. Good luck!
the beast are; 1- direct drive! 2- the double z axcel!!!!
Yea I had a direct drive upgrade but ended up not putting it on. I was getting such good prints, I didnt see the reason to add it, other than increased speeds with tpu prints. But if you do, do the DD upgrade it is definitely a good idea to add the extra Z motor to support the heavier weight on the hot end.
You don't have to upgrade your bo(w)den tube if you don't have one...
Well of course you don't have to if you don't want to. But upgrading it will help with retraction, and printing with tpu, and other higher temp materials. You don't have to do any upgrades if you don't want to.
Can I get a link to the headset holder?
Awesome video BTW!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3534573
i would recomend dual Zmotor
Cool bro!🚀
I do have a ender 3 v2 and I'm struggling to have my prints to stick at default bad I have glass bed included
Yea I would check out the PEI Sheet from TH3D
@@509drone2 what is that
@@marine1718 Its a type of material that you use on your print bed, that PLA sticks extremely well to. Its linked in the description of the video under "TH3D ezFlex Bed Sheet"
Great job, good channel
I would actually recommend not going with Amazon for the Raspberry Pi. They're 35 bucks all day long from the official resellers (pi 3b+ and pi 4 are the same price).
Good to know! thanks for sharing. I would ask though, do they get you on shipping? Amazon prime is free shipping, and fast :)
@@509drone2 yes, they do charge shipping. Adafruit lets you use Amazon Pay but cheapest shipping is about 6 bucks right now.
Super video ! I too am a video maker and have a few good videos on using the Creality Cloud Box.
What size of PEI bed do I need?
Is there a program to scan models in to make a stl to gcode print?
Hey, thanks for the video. I recently got a V2. The new PEI bed you're using, is it placed on the previous glass bed or the metal base below?
The PEI bed sheet comes with a big magnet that is sticky on the back, and you place it on your heater bed. It works great.
Is the magnetic bed and metal flex plate flatter than the glass that comes on it?
For the most part, yes. It forces the plate to stick directly to the heat bed ( with the magnetic plate on it of course ) So if you got a crappy piece of glass from the factory, the flex plate will help forsure. The pei is just 10x better to print on as well. Prints stick A LOT better.
good job!
Thanks!
Definitely agree with the listed mods/upgrades. But don't forget the firmware! Jyers firmware is the best I have found, it Transforms the printer!!!
Thanks man! And yes, firmware should have definitely one of the upgrades. I haven't tried out Jyers yet, but its on my list to check out still. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks. 👍
Great Video as usual!!
What exactly does the BL touch do after probing the bed, does it change values in the z steps menu?
Yes, it builds and stores a virtual mesh bed to use.
But the bltouch is shit. Get the ezabl if you're going to get one.
@@509drone2 Loud and clear, thanks mate!👌
If slicing in cura can you post your PLA cura profile. Thanks
FYI Smith isnt updating thier own firmware they decided to use someone else's and claim it's better than theirs. I haven't used it I alter my own marlin
yea I recently found that out as well. I need to dive into using marlin.
Are you printing your TPU on that PEI sheet? I have the creality version and PLA pops right off it's awesome but the TPU sticks too well. I do clean it with the alcohol quite frequently. ****I commented too soon I just got to the part where you said you use Elmer's stick on the bed sheet for TPU.
Haha yea :) thanks for the comment though. When using TPU, make sure you put something down first.
The glass makes this easy as well. For larger prints, use the glue stick for adhesion insurance. Once done, just leave in the glass plate and model the in freezer for 20secs and the print pops off on its own, even with glue stick applied.
The glass bed is much more versatile and will last longer.
I will never watch a video from this chanel again without ad blocker. 7 minutes in and I've already seen 6 ads.. 8 minutes to go and looks like 6 ads left providing 2 ads per, as it has been so far.
My channel recently just got monetization, I'm not sure if I have control over the amount of ads. I'll look into it, and see if I can reduce them. I agree that's totally annoying.
I just checked and it says there are only 4 ads on this video. Not sure why you are seeing so many?
I JUST returned my bl touch. Could not make it print at all with it attached.
Yea I had a lot of trouble with mine at first, as did a lot of other people. Check out the ezabl from tb3d or look into the method I mentioned in the video for the bltouch.
I second the recommendation for TH3D. Tim is an awesome guy and if you have problems he will help. Sometimes during one of his livestreams.
i heard people having issues with the BL touch and firmware, i used smith3d firmware and got it up and running no issues no hassle
@@joeybergeron376 I went with EZABL. Works very well and incredibly easy to install.
I just bought an ender 3 V2 and within two weeks the armature of the extruder no longer seems willing to go up vertically as it's printing. I find it hard to believe the stepper motor to go bad that fast. And my filament keeps getting jammed up and broken off in the Boden tube. Which I'm assuming is related to the fact that the filament has nowhere to go. Maybe that assumption is wrong I don't know. So far the manufacturer seems to be ignoring me. So I'm sending out an SOS. Please help
Jump in our discord bro, a lot of helpful people in there. Its linked in the description. I'm not sure about the extruder motor stopping working. It sounds like you have something else causing the problem. As for the broken filament thats more then likely cheaper/old filament. Even if it jams, it normally doesn't break. If the filament keeps jamming, make sure you are using the correct size filament for your printer. It should be 1.75mm. Also try replacing your nozzle. Sometimes the nozzles get clogs in them, and that will cause jamming. Replacing the nozzle would be a good idea to try.
Thanks for this video dude. Really helpt me out👌🏽🤙🏽
Hey, how long did you use the stock glass bed before you got a new one cause I still have the glass bed but I don’t want to buy a new bed and have a perfectly good bed still laying around
If your stock bed is working fine, and you're happy with it, leave it alone. Mine worked totally fine, I just wanted to try something different. But I will say, the PEI flex sheets are way better for getting prints off.
@@509drone2 alright thank you very much
is the Creality BL Touch V3.1 Upgraded Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit link you provided for the ender3 V2 a direct plug n play? No messing around with changing connectors or making brackets?
There is no messing around with connectors and brackets but i wouldn't call it plug and play
@@cornedejager just installed it last night, it was all plug n play, was easy as hell. Then did the software update.
would not recommend the extruder chosen, it provides no performance benefits over the stock one, instead look at extruders with a gear ratio as they greatly increase the torque the motor can handle and decrease the likelihood of jams,
also, id get a phaetus dragonfly BMS for the hotend, as it has a bi-metallic heatbreak, and is compatible with e3d nozzles (which are much better than the mk8 style)
lastly, whilst flexplates are amazing, look at a powder coated pei one (wham bam makes the best of those) as it works with PETG, TPU, PLA, ABS etc without the need for a layer of adhesive inbetween them.
Could you recommend a really good extruder for the Ender 3 V2 & nozzle ?
nice video new subscriber here.
Is the bed sheet link on the bottom is broken I think? It's not taking me to the bedsheet
It shouldnt be broken, if so sorry about that. Here is a working link.
www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflex2-flexible-print-system/?share=raverty
How did you attach the filament spool to the printer?
Its a 3D Print you can make to move the spool holder off to the side. All the files and setup are linked in our discord.
@@509drone2 I found it! Thank you!
My bed is warped, the metal part. Been struggling to get it level for almost 2 months. Would the magnetic upgrade you recommend help?
Mines badly warped too, but it didn't seem to affect the glass. Test the flatness of your glass too, I actually had a warped bed AND warped glass. I swapped the glass out and now its nice and flat.
a BlTouch would help you more likely because it adapts the print trough software after measuring the buildplate so i is "virtually" flat - that way you print is flat in the end even if you messed up your bedlevel
What Jar said, and also a bltouch or ezabl (auto bed leveler) would greatly help too. If your bed to extremely warped, it might be worth contacting creality, or whoever you got the printer from and asking for a new bed. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
What is the boden tube again?
PTFE tough tube from th3d. It's linked in the description.
Very informative…Thanks!!!! New Sub for ya. BTW, mine is in route to me and I can’t wait to start printing stuff!!!