It´s not the fall that can kill you. It´s the landing. In trad climbing I dont matter much about these harder steeper routs if their well protected but a longer easier slab route can be scary as shit sometimes when you got the last protection 12 meters below with a couple of "feet braking" ledges who basicly can kill your entire climbing career if you landing on them.
Just ordered the book, really looking forward to it. Also Dave McLeod covers this topic in his book "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes", but I'm excited about the very personal stories by top athletes, how they cope with fear.
To what degree is fear healthy though? I mean everyone wants to send a hard problem/project but you don't want to get rid of all your fear because there's irrational fear and rational fear. How do you get rid of irrational fear and keep rational fear I wonder?
There is a book written by a man named Albert Ellis in which he describes his method called REBT (at the core it's about dealing with anxiety, which irrational fears are rooted in) . This method helps you essentially argue with yourself and work thru irrational fears by recognizing them and retraining your brain to view them more realistically. I'd recommend looking it up. Pretty cool stuff
an onlooker can tell you. being a chicken is one thing. unconfidence in ones skills is wisdom. fear of falling off a cliff is healthy and normal, built in to your mind to keep you safe. ..you balance it.
I think training your irrational fear wont drive you in a fearless maniac. Just listen to what she told us about these professionals, wich still even with training agains rational fear still geting feared by stuff over and over again. "Key" fears of maybe falling or to get hurt in anyway will stay as these fears are human instincts. But if you manage to train off these basic feelings you probably will be killed by some rather stupid looking stuff :D
@@jonnykidnap4082 irrational fears are just that...irrational. Think being horribly afraid of a moth, those fears don't really provide any benefit to us. Regular, rational fears such as falling being hit by a car etc are there for very good reason. Learning to manage them and make good choices while you're afraid can help mitigate risk and prevent poor decision making. Which is what these athletes do very well
I wrote Albert Ellis many years ago (pre email) and he responded. I need to find that letter. I know I kept it. It was about people not being good or bad, but doing good or bad things.
How do you get through the fear of getting higher? New to climbing and I can't seem to get past 7 or 8 ft off the ground. My hands end up getting so clammy.
I'd say you should go with the "go so slow it feels boring" mantra from the video, just do a lot of low grade climbs, I have a fear of getting injured (I'm self employed so don't get payed if off work) for me it was just taking falls, both boulder and lead, and learning that we're not made of glass, and as long as you respect the danger and don't do anything stupid then you're more than likely going to be fine.
I get to 25'. I'm instructed to depend on leg strength, not upper body strength, meaning, not so much pulling up and hanging on. Rather, pushing myself up. I get that, Tanya...
Is anxiety and fear the same thing or is one a component of the another? I have a huge anxiety issue I need to overcome to have a more complete life outdoors.
Quick advice from a random well meaning dude on the internet: Don't let yourself be hold back by a single word. "anxiety". Don't think about what that word means. That will never help you progress. You need to think about what holds you back. Anxiety can mean a whole lot of different things for all kinds of different people. I my self are super anxious in certain situations. And I blamed my self for it and I hated it and that only made it worse. You first need to accept that your mind has it's limits right now. Only then you can slowly work on pushing these limits.
I have read this book and it is a fun to read book, if you are interested in the insights on fear of a bunch of very interesting people. But if you are interested in dealing / beating your own fear when climbing I do not recommend this book. (The rock warrior's way!)
I used to almost manage my fear but recently my friend broke his leg on a crashpad my fear grow again.
“soft gaze” was genius
We need that kindle edition stat!
I love the background soundtrack you guys use for interviews.
Fear can hold you back but fear is a good thing it stops you doing stupid things. I’ve solo a few climbs looking back I should not of done it.
It´s not the fall that can kill you. It´s the landing. In trad climbing I dont matter much about these harder steeper routs if their well protected but a longer easier slab route can be scary as shit sometimes when you got the last protection 12 meters below with a couple of "feet braking" ledges who basicly can kill your entire climbing career if you landing on them.
Just ordered the book, really looking forward to it. Also Dave McLeod covers this topic in his book "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes", but I'm excited about the very personal stories by top athletes, how they cope with fear.
Good interview. I'm looking forward to reading the book
This book must be great because its still out of stock everywhere!
Well spoken.
To what degree is fear healthy though? I mean everyone wants to send a hard problem/project but you don't want to get rid of all your fear because there's irrational fear and rational fear. How do you get rid of irrational fear and keep rational fear I wonder?
There is a book written by a man named Albert Ellis in which he describes his method called REBT (at the core it's about dealing with anxiety, which irrational fears are rooted in) . This method helps you essentially argue with yourself and work thru irrational fears by recognizing them and retraining your brain to view them more realistically. I'd recommend looking it up. Pretty cool stuff
an onlooker can tell you. being a chicken is one thing. unconfidence in ones skills is wisdom. fear of falling off a cliff is healthy and normal, built in to your mind to keep you safe. ..you balance it.
I think training your irrational fear wont drive you in a fearless maniac. Just listen to what she told us about these professionals, wich still even with training agains rational fear still geting feared by stuff over and over again. "Key" fears of maybe falling or to get hurt in anyway will stay as these fears are human instincts. But if you manage to train off these basic feelings you probably will be killed by some rather stupid looking stuff :D
@@jonnykidnap4082 irrational fears are just that...irrational. Think being horribly afraid of a moth, those fears don't really provide any benefit to us. Regular, rational fears such as falling being hit by a car etc are there for very good reason. Learning to manage them and make good choices while you're afraid can help mitigate risk and prevent poor decision making. Which is what these athletes do very well
I wrote Albert Ellis many years ago (pre email) and he responded. I need to find that letter. I know I kept it. It was about people not being good or bad, but doing good or bad things.
I’m ok with falling on slabs, but I get nervous on overhangs that are higher up and can’t commit to the move.
What should I do?
I'm exactly the same! I don't have a soloution though...
I remind myself that falling high up from an overhang is the safest possible fall (if your sport climbing) and that really helps me.
What helps me a lot, is to concentrate on my climbing and to have a plan for the next moves.
DO IT. that's what you do. get angry and just do it!
@@illduitmyself best advice yet, by far.
I dont fear falling. I fear getting injured. I fear pain basically.
How do you get through the fear of getting higher? New to climbing and I can't seem to get past 7 or 8 ft off the ground. My hands end up getting so clammy.
I'd say you should go with the "go so slow it feels boring" mantra from the video, just do a lot of low grade climbs, I have a fear of getting injured (I'm self employed so don't get payed if off work) for me it was just taking falls, both boulder and lead, and learning that we're not made of glass, and as long as you respect the danger and don't do anything stupid then you're more than likely going to be fine.
I get to 25'. I'm instructed to depend on leg strength, not upper body strength, meaning, not so much pulling up and hanging on. Rather, pushing myself up. I get that, Tanya...
Does anyone know where a copy of this book can be purchased? I can't seem to find any :o
Is anxiety and fear the same thing or is one a component of the another? I have a huge anxiety issue I need to overcome to have a more complete life outdoors.
Quick advice from a random well meaning dude on the internet:
Don't let yourself be hold back by a single word. "anxiety". Don't think about what that word means. That will never help you progress.
You need to think about what holds you back. Anxiety can mean a whole lot of different things for all kinds of different people.
I my self are super anxious in certain situations. And I blamed my self for it and I hated it and that only made it worse. You first need to accept that your mind has it's limits right now. Only then you can slowly work on pushing these limits.
Deep bro
Shut up and TAKE MY MONEY!!! :)
Manawydan same!
what route is honnold doing around min 4?
ua-cam.com/video/b4c-8xWD1Mk/v-deo.html
I have read this book and it is a fun to read book, if you are interested in the insights on fear of a bunch of very interesting people. But if you are interested in dealing / beating your own fear when climbing I do not recommend this book. (The rock warrior's way!)
Good to know.
To save time and learn from the best, read the book.
🤙🏼
probs gonna get lost in the comments
I create high-quality climbing videos that need some feedback lmao
love you all
1st!!!!!!!!!