From WLtoys 144001 / 124017 / 124019 to 1/10 Scale Buggy Redbull Edition. Hop-up Brushless 104001?
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- The design theme is to build an ultra-light weight 1/10 scale track ready buggy.
With all the improvements added, it's now drive so much better in high speed and cornering compare to 124017 and 144001.
If you need stock or custom parts, contact me at customtoyrevolution@gmail.com
that looks so sick, omg. Sick vid bro!!!
Excellent build!
Amazing build absolutely wonderful 👍
Thank you very much!
Good job brother! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do!
That's money dude
The spur gear needs to be on the center diff. It is basically 2 wd the way it is
Not sure what you base that on. It currently serves as a slipper clutch to be precise. Sending % power to the front depending on the weight of the diff. fluid
@@customtoyrevolution okay I get that you are using it as a slipper but it won't be constant especially with a wltoys diff . They leak there is no way around that and as it heats up there will be next to no resistance . All the power to you if you have it working the way you want it.
@@revee1000 you are absolutely right. That's why I cheated it with blue tag glue or a million wt diff oil that won't leak out. Also repack the internal gears. I had slim in it at 1st but that's too lose, only get 10 to 20% power.
I was just about to write the science explaining why this is wrong... but u read my mind... by having the spur in the back you only spin the rear tires and makes this 4wd in to a 2wd since the center diff is not being rotated internally (only the crown gears), like having a 2wd and lifting one tire in the air rotating while the other side doesnt even move.
Long story short you could've cut the center driveshaft going to the front and save time and effort...SORRY MAN
@@customtoyrevolution 😅🤣 this is wrong on soooo many levels.... but props on the engineering and execution... your science is wrong and to prove it lift the rear of vehicle in air while the front touches the ground. Accelerate and you will realize that the front tires wont move. Thats exactly what a diff does. Seriously go ask the "PROS" of your choosing. 🙁
Epic man! I love my WLtoys. I’m going to put a hobbywing 3652 in the 144001. Very excited. Any tips or concerns?
I installed 3650 and it was too powerful for my taste. Be prepared to break lots of parts for bashing. If you are doing it for speed run, reduce your punch level and use foam tires if you want speed above 50 mph. It really depends on what do want. I put duct tape on my tire increase stability at high speed. I think I forgot to mention it on my video. By the way, if you are thinking of using 3rd party metal parts, good luck. Their tolerances are horrible and wear out in just a few run.
@@customtoyrevolution yea I don’t plan on doing more aluminium. Tons Alu doesn’t go well with bashing. But I’ve had a history of putting massive motors in small cars. Kinda what I do. My last project was the 1/16 e revo and I put a castle 1410 in it lmao. It rips. I’ll make sure to get extra parts. Thanks!
@@customtoyrevolution i put a hobby run quickrun 3650 on mine as well, I also had to lower the punch, if you went too fast off the line the diffs would spazz out, I think it was because there is too much play between them , i thought maybe if I used shims it might help but haven't done it yet, until then i turned down the punch to 5 instead of 8 or 9, I still easily get like 45+ on a 3s lipo though, id like to buy higher quality differentials with less play but I honestly dont even know if they exist. any advice would be appreciated.
I switch out my camber and toe with traxxas brand, because the wltoys ones were too tight to fine tune without them popping off. its nice that they pop off because if you wreck hard it might save some parts from breaking. but mine were just way to stiff to finely adjust my steering so I switched them out. its a love hate kind of thing, I haven't crashed it yet, when I do I see if having screwed in camber and toe vs pop off ones was a mistake or not, reinforced mine with upper chassis brace that meets with the center spur cover, id also like to get rid of the stock center spur.
I still have that 180 gram metal one in the center, id like to switch lighter higher quality one, but have not found one yet, thought about just making one from scratch from other rc companies.
I've only done about 5 runs on the diffs and so far there holding up, i packed them with white lithium grease, hopefully they last a while longer. now that spring is here I can bring it out of hibernation and start working on it again.
@@DavidPilcher83I personally don't like open diffs as they come as stock. White Lithium works but you must keep adding in fresh one as they leak out. That's what I've been doing and haven't broken any diffs yet. Repack your diffs and add heavy weight diff fluid, 1/2 a million wt. maybe more proper way. Depending on your driving style, adjust the diff fluid weight to your own liking. Those diffs will then last forever.
I don't like links popping out. I would rather reinforce the rest of the structure.
My next project will be light weight conversion of the 104001 but with a proper center diffs. and a carbon fiber spur variant.
Lastly, add high speed cooling fan to the motor. A must do item!
@@customtoyrevolution the nice thing about my 104001 is the difs on that model come with a seal on the differential casing. So I’m happy to say in all my runs nothing has leaked yet. On the smaller models there were no seals. But on the 10th scale it came with seals, so technically I could have added silicone fluid to my diffs but I didn’t have any so I went with the grease. But I agree with everything you are saying.
I hated my links popping out as well. That’s why I went with the traxxas that use an m3 screw and nut if you want. Also I was trying to support my local RC shop, and traxxas brand just happened to have my mm length I needed, only reason I chose that brand and they were cheap yet still tough.
nice mods, its looking pretty good, all that carbon fiber your working with must be pretty pricey.... i upgraded and modded my 104001 also, not quite as much as you have with yours but quite a bit. I have put about 700$ into mine so far, its looks like you have a lot more than that into your though lol.
where did you find that black body for yours? that red bull body is pretty sweet too, I am looking for another body for my 104001 but sometimes its hard finding one that fits decent, do you have any links as to where I might be able to get a different body other than the stock one. id appreciate it. keep up the good work.
👍
I consider it a budget build. Put less than $200 ($120 just for motor & ESC) in it but with lots of hrs in design time. Glad it comes out looking expensive.
The redbull body is a custom painted from stock.
DYI check out this video ua-cam.com/video/qJCmeDro9Sw/v-deo.html
Car looks amazing.. where did you get the Redbull stickers.. been looking for them everywhere for my RC
DYI, check out this ua-cam.com/video/qJCmeDro9Sw/v-deo.html
Maybe I should sell them!
@@customtoyrevolution you totally should I would buy one!.
Wow.
Thanks
This is cool but what advantage does this offer to the 1/10 wl toys buggy
Light weight, faster, less stress on the entire system, superior handling, adjustable for different terrain. Maybe better look?
@@customtoyrevolution ok,I was thinking more from a cost vs work perspective
Cool
Where did you get that body and wing from?
RLAARLO (a 144001 + Mini Tyhone clone) from Amazon