I saw your Hasselblad video and shortly bought one for myself. Your advice came in good stead. I’m watching this and realise I’m on the cusp of buying a Leica M6. Thank you for your kindness and generosity in sharing your knowledge. Great video. You’re definitely an expert.
One extremely important point you didn’t mention was that you need to check the shutter curtain itself. Since it’s cloth, it can easily have holes burnt into it from a lens that’s pointed at the sun too long. Something I wasn’t aware of when I first got one and something I don’t see people talking about much. Only a few seconds of the camera pointed at the sun with the lens at infinity will burn a whole into the shutter. It’s possible to patch these holes with liquid electrical tape, but it’s best to replace the curtain and be mindful of not having a cap on or at least stopping your lens down all the way if you are walking around on a sunny day with no cap.
Thanks for commenting - it's always appreciated. Physical damage to the shutter will be quite obvious when carrying out the shutter checks I have outlined. Damage from the sun is certainly something to watch out for - as are damage caused by fingers going through the shutter and film leaders/ film fragments becoming caught in the shutter blinds.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange It can actually be very tough to spot burn holes in the shutter curtain at times. They can be very very small. You need to take the camera into a dark room with a very bright flashlight and shine it on the back of the curtain while looking at the front.
That's really interesting to read. I have only seen this a handful of times in 35 years. Usually the damage results in fine blistering where the rubberised fabric has heated - sometimes a hole will burn through, sometimes not. The laser-like pinprick you describe sounds more like fabric disintegration which was quite common with older screw-fitting cameras but is no longer an issue with modern shutters (to the best of my knowledge). That said, I am based in the UK where the sun is seldom seen and not very strong - perhaps the problem presents itself differently in other countries. Whatever the cause, as you rightly highlight, it is very important to check the shutter for damage very carefully. Thanks again for contributing - it's always appreciated.
Very informative and respect for you knowledge! I just got mine 0.72x black TTL in mint condition for almost $4k this week. Hope I found this video a little bit earlier so I could pretend to be a pro when I bought mine.
Are you seeing fogging outside the negative area and across the sprocket holes? Assuming the camera hasn't been heavily knocked the most likely area of any leak is the hinged back. Best to have a repairer look at it.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you for the reply :) Any suggestions who might be best to look at it? YYE doesn't want to look at light leaks. Any others?
@@WorldwideCameraExchange You know what I think helped? Some electrical tape over those two little holes on the right side of the camera, next to the strap lug.
Great video. Very helpful. I'm going to buying an M6 TTL (1986) but he said he hasn't used the light meter and doesn't know if if works (I have to assume not) and hasn't been CLA'd since he bought it 10 years ago. He is offering a really good deal though which is why I'm considering. Is a non-functioning light meter a concern? Are these red flags? Any tips?
A non working meter on a Leica M6 or M6 TTL isn’t a problem if the price is right. But I’d be very concerned about other issues … the seller sounds dishonest (why wouldn’t he test the meter? Easy to do and it would mean he could sell the camera more quickly for more money? I’d bet my bottom Dollar it isn’t working and he knows it). I’d recommend walking away unless you’re 100% confident testing it out.
Wonderfully helpful video. Sadly in my area/city/province (Canada) the second hand market is miserably thin and I find myself reading eBay listings with tremendous skepticism. I'm concerned that even if I can return an item, I'll be out the several hundred dollars in shipping/taxes. Would you ever advise buying online through eBay or similar?
Buy from reputable sellers with good feedback. Check out eBay's buyer protection to understand how you're covered. eBay usually estimates shipping and taxes so there should be no surprises. Do your research and understand what you're buying and you really should be fine.
If you use a Leica camera professionally I’d say every couple of years. Primarily to check rangefinder adjustment, shutter adjustment etc. If the use is lower then perhaps every five years. The important thing is to keep using it (mechanical cameras don’t like sitting and doing nothing) and store it correctly.
I wish i have watched it before buying my 0.85 TTL. The camera appeared to be unused but unfortunately had the shutter’s second curtain drag problem at 1/1000 which I have discoreverd long after purchase. I would have asked for a discount if I knew that.
I guess I didn’t notice before but should there be 2 frame lines showing in the view finder? I move the viewfinder select lever and the line disappears but comes back when release the lever.
You will see a pair of frames as shown in the video. If the pairs don’t change quickly and decisively (usually with a quiet click) you will need to get the rangefinder serviced. It’s a common fault to see one pair of frames stick as the new pair is selected.
I’m in the market for an M6 TTL but been seeing information about bubbling on the top plate caused by a reaction in the zinc. I heard this issue was fixed in the production of later M6 TTL but can you confirm? Or are all M6 / M6 TTLs susceptible to this?
I’ve seen it on Leica M6 and M6 TTL cameras. It does seem worse with older cameras but I don’t know if that’s down to improvements in manufacture or just time.
Either the 0.72 or the 0.58. The latter is only available in later cameras. You’ll struggle with the 0.85 because the 35mm frame is close to the edge of the finder.
I have a non TTL M6. I generally keep my 50mm lens on all the time. When I remove the lens the lens mount is wet, with a light film of oil. The oil is nowhere else and it doesn’t effect the performance of the camera. It’s been like this for many years, and doesn’t get worse. Is this a problem ?
M6 prices are creeping ever so slowly into factory new MP price range. In other words, the M6 is getting way too expensive for what it is. A factory new MP comes with 3 years of warranty, pretty much unconditionally Leica will repair ANY damage within that window. They even repaired cosmetic damage on my MP on warranty! The MP is all around a better built camera, better viewfinder. Don't buy an expensive M6, if it needs to be a Leica M, get on the wait list for a factory new MP. You can always sell it at a profit (used MPs are more expensive than new ones!) and you get a worry free, warranty covered camera.
Thank you for your comments - always appreciated. Leica M6s are generally selling for £2200-£2500 in good condition (excluding outliers and 'collectables'). A new Leica MP, assuming you can get one, sells today for £4250. That's a worthwhile saving ... assuming the camera you're buying is late, mechanically/optically sound and in good condition. If you're considering an early, tatty M6 at £2500 vs a new MP at £4250 I'd recommend the MP all day long. If the gap closes further (I think it will) then I agree the new Leica MP will become a better buy. It might even encourage Leica to hold MPs in stock rather than building to order!
It’s an understandable and rational fear! Tread with extreme care on eBay. And I'd say that about buying Leica, Nikon, Canon, Hasselblad, Mamiya ... anything expensive. Professional sellers with good feedback shouldn't be an issue. Private sellers may genuinely believe an item to be perfect but be unaware of mechanical and optical issues (the latter in particular are difficult to spot).
Fantastic video! Perfectly to the point and informative!
Thank you - very kind
Fantastic to discover such a valuable YT resource. I wish you success, the content is superb. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
This is such a great guiding video!! Thank you for your effort~
Thank you
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was useful - thanks
I saw your Hasselblad video and shortly bought one for myself. Your advice came in good stead. I’m watching this and realise I’m on the cusp of buying a Leica M6. Thank you for your kindness and generosity in sharing your knowledge. Great video. You’re definitely an expert.
Thank you!
Extremely useful video thank you
Thanks - glad it was useful.
Good info. Thanks for making the video.
Thanks
One extremely important point you didn’t mention was that you need to check the shutter curtain itself. Since it’s cloth, it can easily have holes burnt into it from a lens that’s pointed at the sun too long. Something I wasn’t aware of when I first got one and something I don’t see people talking about much. Only a few seconds of the camera pointed at the sun with the lens at infinity will burn a whole into the shutter. It’s possible to patch these holes with liquid electrical tape, but it’s best to replace the curtain and be mindful of not having a cap on or at least stopping your lens down all the way if you are walking around on a sunny day with no cap.
Thanks for commenting - it's always appreciated. Physical damage to the shutter will be quite obvious when carrying out the shutter checks I have outlined. Damage from the sun is certainly something to watch out for - as are damage caused by fingers going through the shutter and film leaders/ film fragments becoming caught in the shutter blinds.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange It can actually be very tough to spot burn holes in the shutter curtain at times. They can be very very small. You need to take the camera into a dark room with a very bright flashlight and shine it on the back of the curtain while looking at the front.
That's really interesting to read. I have only seen this a handful of times in 35 years. Usually the damage results in fine blistering where the rubberised fabric has heated - sometimes a hole will burn through, sometimes not. The laser-like pinprick you describe sounds more like fabric disintegration which was quite common with older screw-fitting cameras but is no longer an issue with modern shutters (to the best of my knowledge). That said, I am based in the UK where the sun is seldom seen and not very strong - perhaps the problem presents itself differently in other countries. Whatever the cause, as you rightly highlight, it is very important to check the shutter for damage very carefully. Thanks again for contributing - it's always appreciated.
Who points at the sun? Ansel Adams always took photos with the sun to his back.
Thanks for commenting
Excellent.
Thanks - glad it was useful
Very good film
Thank you - very kind
Thanks for the Video.
One note, the flashing red LEDs in the viewfinder (on the newer M6 Versions) are a warning if you forgot to remove the lens cap.
Thanks for sharing
Very informative and respect for you knowledge! I just got mine 0.72x black TTL in mint condition for almost $4k this week. Hope I found this video a little bit earlier so I could pretend to be a pro when I bought mine.
M6s are fantastic cameras ... enjoy!
I'm an ex M9 use looking into getting an M6. In the UK and luckily there seems to be plenty around.
Choose carefully. And factor in the cost of a service unless It’s 100%.
Always check for film counter works correctly, sometimes it doesn't reset correctly due to lack of oil inside.
Thanks for commenting
Brilliant
Thank you
Awesome video, very thorough. I'm concerned that my m6 TTL has some light leaks. Any tips on how to diagnose, and also what to do about it?
Are you seeing fogging outside the negative area and across the sprocket holes? Assuming the camera hasn't been heavily knocked the most likely area of any leak is the hinged back. Best to have a repairer look at it.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you for the reply :) Any suggestions who might be best to look at it? YYE doesn't want to look at light leaks. Any others?
If you're in the UK maybe Newton Ellis in Liverpool?
@@WorldwideCameraExchange You know what I think helped? Some electrical tape over those two little holes on the right side of the camera, next to the strap lug.
Great video. Very helpful. I'm going to buying an M6 TTL (1986) but he said he hasn't used the light meter and doesn't know if if works (I have to assume not) and hasn't been CLA'd since he bought it 10 years ago. He is offering a really good deal though which is why I'm considering. Is a non-functioning light meter a concern? Are these red flags? Any tips?
A non working meter on a Leica M6 or M6 TTL isn’t a problem if the price is right. But I’d be very concerned about other issues … the seller sounds dishonest (why wouldn’t he test the meter? Easy to do and it would mean he could sell the camera more quickly for more money? I’d bet my bottom Dollar it isn’t working and he knows it). I’d recommend walking away unless you’re 100% confident testing it out.
Wonderfully helpful video. Sadly in my area/city/province (Canada) the second hand market is miserably thin and I find myself reading eBay listings with tremendous skepticism. I'm concerned that even if I can return an item, I'll be out the several hundred dollars in shipping/taxes. Would you ever advise buying online through eBay or similar?
Buy from reputable sellers with good feedback. Check out eBay's buyer protection to understand how you're covered. eBay usually estimates shipping and taxes so there should be no surprises. Do your research and understand what you're buying and you really should be fine.
Very informative, thanks for a detailed video. I have a question, how often does it require a CLA (assuming that I did one today)?
If you use a Leica camera professionally I’d say every couple of years. Primarily to check rangefinder adjustment, shutter adjustment etc. If the use is lower then perhaps every five years. The important thing is to keep using it (mechanical cameras don’t like sitting and doing nothing) and store it correctly.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Understood, Thank you!
nice video! I wonder if the FlashQ will work with the M6 Titanium
Thank you for commenting. The Leica M6 has a standard hot shoe so will work with any flash with the standard fitting.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you
I wish i have watched it before buying my 0.85 TTL. The camera appeared to be unused but unfortunately had the shutter’s second curtain drag problem at 1/1000 which I have discoreverd long after purchase. I would have asked for a discount if I knew that.
Not good but not too serious. Get it serviced and it’ll serve you faithfully for years to come.
Like the lack of cuts in this, feels like a more considered presentation. Need to find a dealer down this as the only ones I've seen are on eBay
Thank you - appreciated
I guess I didn’t notice before but should there be 2 frame lines showing in the view finder? I move the viewfinder select lever and the line disappears but comes back when release the lever.
You will see a pair of frames as shown in the video. If the pairs don’t change quickly and decisively (usually with a quiet click) you will need to get the rangefinder serviced. It’s a common fault to see one pair of frames stick as the new pair is selected.
I’m in the market for an M6 TTL but been seeing information about bubbling on the top plate caused by a reaction in the zinc. I heard this issue was fixed in the production of later M6 TTL but can you confirm? Or are all M6 / M6 TTLs susceptible to this?
I’ve seen it on Leica M6 and M6 TTL cameras. It does seem worse with older cameras but I don’t know if that’s down to improvements in manufacture or just time.
I wear glasses and mainly will shoot with 35mm lens, which magnification would be best?
Either the 0.72 or the 0.58. The latter is only available in later cameras. You’ll struggle with the 0.85 because the 35mm frame is close to the edge of the finder.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I hear mixed reviews about the .72 and most people have said that .58 would be best for glasses and 35mm would you agree?
It's very subjective. On balance I would say the 0.58 will be better (
many 0.72 users will disagree) but you should try both and decide yourself.
I need to buy a used film Leica M. I am undecided whether to switch to M6 or M7. Which one do you recommend?
Leica M7 if you want the aperture priority function. Otherwise the mechanical M6. Both cameras are fantastic - you can’t make a bad choice.
I have a non TTL M6. I generally keep my 50mm lens on all the time. When I remove the lens the lens mount is wet, with a light film of oil. The oil is nowhere else and it doesn’t effect the performance of the camera. It’s been like this for many years, and doesn’t get worse. Is this a problem ?
Nothing to worry about!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks, Rick….. 🌴
M6 prices are creeping ever so slowly into factory new MP price range. In other words, the M6 is getting way too expensive for what it is. A factory new MP comes with 3 years of warranty, pretty much unconditionally Leica will repair ANY damage within that window. They even repaired cosmetic damage on my MP on warranty! The MP is all around a better built camera, better viewfinder.
Don't buy an expensive M6, if it needs to be a Leica M, get on the wait list for a factory new MP. You can always sell it at a profit (used MPs are more expensive than new ones!) and you get a worry free, warranty covered camera.
Thank you for your comments - always appreciated.
Leica M6s are generally selling for £2200-£2500 in good condition (excluding outliers and 'collectables'). A new Leica MP, assuming you can get one, sells today for £4250. That's a worthwhile saving ... assuming the camera you're buying is late, mechanically/optically sound and in good condition. If you're considering an early, tatty M6 at £2500 vs a new MP at £4250 I'd recommend the MP all day long.
If the gap closes further (I think it will) then I agree the new Leica MP will become a better buy. It might even encourage Leica to hold MPs in stock rather than building to order!
New fear unlocked. Buying a M6 on ebay.
It’s an understandable and rational fear! Tread with extreme care on eBay. And I'd say that about buying Leica, Nikon, Canon, Hasselblad, Mamiya ... anything expensive. Professional sellers with good feedback shouldn't be an issue. Private sellers may genuinely believe an item to be perfect but be unaware of mechanical and optical issues (the latter in particular are difficult to spot).
Step 1: Sold a kidney.
Worth it!