We're still fine tuning this new carb on the 2023 YZ125X (2022/2023 YZ125). This is what we found out so far. Hope this helps! #howto #jettingspecs #yz125x
Thank you so much for posting this video. I was going in the right direction but was still a long way off from your recommended settings. I ended up going with the next step you were contemplating (52 pilot, 170 main) and the bike ran great at my temp and elevation (90°/2700ft). Thanks again!
Great video thank you for the information. We have been struggling with this 125x for so long that it is frustrating. Ran across your post and it definitely perked her up. Running at about 1600 FT elevation in 40 to 50s right now. Heading to a scramble short course race this weekend so we'll see how she goes
Great job sharing is caring its about your experience & letting other people experience the same results racing 🏁 is definitely down to your skills as a driver I know having a good bike also helps but you want people to enjoy there yamaha experience & hats off for sharing your knowledge a very admirable thing to do have a smashing evening enjoy your week great content 👊💨
Thank you so much for this video and sharing your knowledge. I ride a good mix of single track and mx and this really helped. I purchased a 2023 yz125 earlier this year. Did the break in to the manual, and to their specs. Not even 2 hours on it and I was fouling plugs almost every 10 minutes and nothing seemed to help. Long story short, I returned it to the dealership and thought I had a lemon. I found a 2023 monster edition yz125 and purchased it and the bike was fine throughout break in. The power felt great and I loved the bike, it just would load up in the corners and at about 6 hours on the bike it would foul a plug almost every hour. I would change the plug and it would scream again. After trying a few different jet settings via the manual I thought I had another dud. Stock settings: Pilot: 75 Main: 160 AS: 2&5/8 Needle: NYDF-2 Yamalube 2r: 40:1 Sparkplug: BR9EIX New settings: Pilot: 52 Main: 168 AS: 1 Needle: NYDF-2 Yamalube 2r: 40:1 Sparkplug: BR9EIX The bike after the new settings had the same power (bottom to top) as the stock settings which I didn’t want to change, but there’s no load up in the corners anymore and no more fouled plugs. I was very relieved today after riding, I rode tight single track as well as mx track and it barely needed any clutch. Can’t thank you enough for this video!!!
The most noticeable build up was on the bottom end and partial throttle. After tuning the carb I’ve ran the same plug close to 8 hours and still no issues and I’m absolutely in love with the yz125. If it werent for this video I would’ve sold the bike and gone with a different company though. Poor jetting from factory.
I wanted to buy a yz125x. Last year and could not find one to buy . I ended up with a 01 Honda cr125 used in excellent original low hours . Runs perfectly always . I trail ride it 😎
Mr. Woodrum, I found success with the NYEF needle in clip 5 (trial and error starting in 2nd clip) with 58p and 165m...note running 32:1 Klotz R50 and 51T rear sprocket at sea level. Me 2024 125X sings fine tunes on the stock pipe now! No bogging and lifts on to the powerband much quicker than the stock setup. 51T rear sprocket idea came from Josh Mosiman suggestion in recent MXA testing. 130/80r18 M5B Evo rear tire hooks with the 51T.
If you want a wall of torque and a stronger and wider top end, consider the Super X by SuperTorque/STIC. I know YZ125X riders that were astounded at the big power. In the low end it has an unstoppable lug, better than new 250F's. Broad full race tune. Best part is, your shift point is no longer on a narrow rom range. Also very stable for a buddies Virginia temp swings...tested down to 36° F.
ive never made a change to the mikuni on my 2020 125x and i never have problems. i fouled one plug the day i got it but i figured that was the break in oil/fuel mix the dealer used
Just bought a 2024 YZ 125 and it is definately boggy down low. A very fun to ride bike. I'd really like to soup it up with a few more ponies and a stronger bottom end. It's got that angry hornets nest sound. I'm subbing.
My 24 runs like dog water it's so bad dealership said that's the way it's supposed to be and I've had multiple 125s and this bike by far is the slowest least powerful yamaha I've ever had supper disappointed
@@benpearce628 I agree. I'm thinking on rejetting and a new cpu and going back to 32 to 1 fuel oil mixture. I should've bought the 2024 gasgas mc 125. That's the baddest 125 out there that's carburated. I've lo got the 2024 Husqvarna TC 250 fuel injected. I'm happy with it.
There is also a boost jet in that carb that opens up in the midrange based on throttle position and maybe rpm. Most people don’t mess with it but it gives you another tuning option. 250s generally run smaller jets than 125s because they pull more vacuum.
On my 23 yz125x, I settled on 52 pilot,nycf-1,165 main or nyef-3 needle for a snappier response. I also liked 55 pilot,nycg-1,165 main or nyeg-3 for a more instant response off idle. 500ft, 28 degrees. I installed a stic super x carb by stic super torque as i was still chasing more out of the stock setup. The bike now is totally transformed from top to bottom. I would carry out this modification before a pipe or cylinder head change. It rides like a 150 now! It has a wall of torque off the bottom and a super strong but smooth top end, with fantasic over rev characteristics. So far, riding from 500-2500ft, 18-38*c has not required even an airscrew or jet adjustment.
@donaldbuckner2935 The Stic Super X carb is a complete bolt in carb. The super X body is based on a pwk air striker keihin. Short and long body versions are available, but the X is very different internally to the keihin. The X has a different jet block assembly, an additional air correction jet passage in the intake bellow that is linked to the jet block, and the carb is bored out to 39/40mm. The X creates a large pressurisation and pressure drops in the entry, midpoint, and exit of the jet tube. These processes help to atomise and super cool the fuel mixture, allowing a complete combustion process that is unmatched by any other brand carb. As well as an increase in power, this allows the carb to operate in a large range of environmental differences such as elevation or temp changes, without the need to re-jet. A tweak of the airscrew is all that is required if necessary. As the pilot jet is sealed off from the float bowl it draws fuel from a passage in the jet block, this process at intermediate and above engine speeds now reverses flow and now feeds the main jet additional air and fuel vapor which accumulates at the intake bellow area this reverse flow process further enhances the mid range and top acceleration. The addition of the air correction jet allows the airscrew to be reduced to 1-2 turns range over the previous metering block setup, which generally ran at 3-4 turns out. On my bike, the single biggest improvement in power from bottom to top and creating a very wide usable power curve for a 125 2 stroke came from the Super X carb. No joke people who I have offered rides to say, is it a 150? I have undertaken further mods as I got the power bug, but no bolt on mod came close to what difference the X carb made on its own. Every bolt on mod since the X carb has only slightly added on to the already mind-blowing usable power the X created. I would recommend this carb be fitted before a big bore kit,pipe, or cylinder head change. As Stic Super torque no longer advertise and their website is in the dinosaur era, they rely on word of mouth for advertising. Here are their contact details. I have no affiliation, just a happy customer. 3730 Hemlock Ln. Eagle River, WI 54521 Phone:715-479-7842 Email: vortex@sticfuel.us
We had the same problem with the new 125. Was set up from the book from the dealership and it wouldn't run but 15 seconds top. Done some digging and they send them too lean. Had to put the winter tune in it and being 75 degrees in indiana is still the tune to be at. Not sure what the deal is
Noticed this same thing on my sons 2023 125. It’s the reg 125 not the X but motor should be the same. Just the gearing is different I believe. It’s so rich stock, I’m in the SoCal hi desert, 3800 ft elevation. Changed the pilot leaner 1 step and it helped, I’m 2 5/8 out on the air screw. This is where the manual says stock setting is. So I believe 0 is the 2 5/8 and it says +1/4. So I think it’s another 1/4 turn when you do the changes by the manual. Might go 1 step leaner on the pilot and should be 1 1/2 to 2 turns on the air screw. Changed the needle to the 1 leaner needle at same position 2 on the clip, which should be a half step. Position 2 on the needle is stock also. It helped but still have the bottom end bog. Like when you get into the throttle fast there is a bog, then it comes alive. The needle helped it a little so I think I’m gonna go back to stock needle all the way up top on the clip. Not sure I need to change the main since it sounds good WOT. Maybe a little rich but I’d rather that than lean. If you feather the clutch the bog ain’t there at all. But when you snap the throttle off bottom, without feathering the clutch, there is a hesitation. It’s all down low so I’m figuring pilot or needle, but, I’m not sure if the main might need to go down 1 since it’s when you grab a hand full of throttle. Goes against everything in carb tuning but IDK. Gonna mess with it a little more but you are right. This thing is super rich out the box. Maybe jetted for sea level but it is rich. Thanks for the video at least I know I’m on the right track.
I was running into the same issues as you were, getting the low end bog especially when not using the clutch. I went down from a 75 to a 72 on my pilot but the bike didnt seem to have the same power as the stock settings and still seemed to have a bit of a bog on the bottom. switched to the following settings and it still had the same power as stock just with out the bottom end bog and fouled plugs. Bike has ran amazing for the past 4 hours since retuning. Pilot: 52 Main: 168 AS: 1 Needle: NYDF-2 Yamalube 2r: 40:1 Sparkplug: BR9EIX
@@UnitedKanedom Interesting you are using NGK iridium spark plug. I will try your jetting settings. My 23 X is bogging down just off idle too. Should be easy to tune out.
@@UnitedKanedomI stepped the pilot down to a 58 helped a lot. Needs like a 55 or step below, main should be right at 162-165. I hear that the Yamaha gytr y3 needle cleans up the lower end bog. Jd jetting has a kit and told me it fixes the problem. They said they are still working on the 125x kit. I don’t have the x. You can go 1 step richer on the slide from a 7 to a 6 and it might get it closer to working with the stock needles. Or step the needle richer from NYDF to NYDE or NYDD. This is a smaller shaft to richen up the low end. But the same clip positions. It’s a lean bog not a rich bog. This carb is flooding out the bike nasty, it’s way too rich. The main can go up a little and helps it pull longer but pilot is fat and the needle is lean. I called keihin and talked to a tech also. He told me the carb should be adjusted juts like any other. Change the pilot and get 1-2 turns out of the air screw. So the pilot is way too big, it’s like Yamaha tried to fix the needle or slide problem with the fat pilot which is wrong. The bike once it’s off the bottom it rips, I just want it to roll the throttle and not bog.
Alot of people are blaming alot of that sluggish lack of power and poor accelerator under the power band all on the rich pilot it's not just that its really lean in the clip as well. My 23 come stock with the nydf needle on clip 2 and its was really lean in the clip it had a lean dog out if u rolled into it to hard when I was under the pipe. Moved it to 3 and what a huge difference cleared that up and it was really linear on nydf 2 when it first got on the pipe, now it hits alot harder and rolls onto the pipe easier. I'm gonna try nydf at 4 some point soon or maybe try the half clip leaner needle in 4.
If u get going real slow in 3rd or 2nd and roll into the throttle hard while ur still under the powerband and let it climb up in rpms without clutching, it will start to bog and loose speed and power before it can get into the powerband, noticed going leaner in the pilot really didn't help with it or the poor reposne down low or roll on time before you get into the powerband. When I went to nydf 3 it fixed all of that It really gave it that bottom usable power it was lacking and improving mid range alot, even noticed its way easier clearing certain jumps with shorter run ups at my house after making the clip change, way better powerband hit
I finally landed on the NYCG needle on the 2nd clip. Super crisp throttle. I'm using 55 pilot and 165 main. AS 2 1/4 out. Stock jetting was ridiculously rich and the manual is way off IMO.
Yes, on a 2023 125X. My plug is actually still a bit rich overall. I haven't done a WOT plug chop, so I'm going by feel on the top end. If I was riding only MX, I would go up one on the main jet.
Can you list what different needles and jets come stock with the bike. I'm picking up my 23 in a couple weeks and want to have a few options to try...but don't want to buy something I'll already have. Great video, I'm been trying to find information on this all winter in prep for spring. Thanks again!
Needle: NYCF - In the bike NYDF - extra (I did talk to a kid last week that has a regular 125 and his came with an NYEF) Main - 160, 162, 165, 168 Pilot - 62, 65, 68, 70
@@woodrumracingvlogs Just wondering your opinion on the 23 compared to the older version. My son rides a 20 125x and I really liked it so I bought a 23. I'm a little disappointed as his seems to be a much better woods bike. I used your jetting spec which really helped but I find the suspension a lot less plush and the bottom end doesn't seem as strong. My bike struggles to get on the pipe without clutching where the older bike has much better squirt out of corners. Anyway, just wondering if you found the same or maybe it just mine.
First off, thanks for posting! Secondly, you said you're running a 40:1 mix. I have a 2022 and manual calls for 30:1 mix. You said it runs rich, a 40:1 mix is 33% more rich than 30:1. That could be your issue (math: 40/30=1.33, or reverse it, 30x1.33=39.9). I bought my bike used with low hours, guy said he was running 40:1 and that felt rich when I rode it. I drained the fuel and went 30:1 and bike runs much crisper. My 0.02
Isn't 40:1 leaner than 30:1 ? 1:1 is the richest so as gas volume goes up to oil volume it becomes leaner. 50:1 is very lean? Do I have this wrong? Thank you
Just wondering since you have more races on the bike and have had more time to adjust did you change from your settings in the video or did you stick to them? Thanks dude. Picked up a 24 yz125x and it was so rich if fouled plugs on the ride trying to get the dealership gas out so i could use my mix and ratio.😂 leaned the needle and piolit and it runs now but i got more work to do. Ordering needle and jets soon.
I still have a bog off the bottom. From about 1/8th turn until half throttle. Scratching my head. Running the JD jet kit 50 pilot, 180 main. Blue needle in clip 3. Did you find a way to fix it? I was running super M 32:1. Going to try the motorex at 40:1. Thinking of dropping the clip position to a 4 or 5 for the next move.
I went down on both main jet and pilot jet. The bike is too rich. Also changed that needle to the one they gave you extra. Use non ethanol gas 32:1 Amsoil interceptor but leak oil from tail pipe. Now i just bought some Yamalube 2R and hopefully will.not the spooge. Bike runs good but still has that bottom issue but a little better with this change. Why did you go up on the main? Wouldn't that make it more rich? Thanks for video
We went up on the main because the bike was lean on top end. We did a plug test on the top end by getting the bike wide open, pulling in the clutch and hitting the kill switch (or so we were told). Pulled the plug out and it was definitely on the white side so we went bigger. I could also just hear it while he was riding. You're welcome, glad you found it useful.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it but all these Yamaha bikes have too large of a squish band. You could make bikes way easier to jet if you buy a aftermarket head like the apex head with an xc or sx dome or even have someone cut your stock head. Tom Morgan racing or pro circuit. Apex can mod you stock head also. Great video
@@scottardito7790 all of them have to big of squish from factory so they can run on crappy fuel in other countries and the x models is worse than the standard yz. Squish makes all the difference in a 2 stroke. I do believe that the new 125 engine jetting is not as good as the previous engine but like I said fixing the squish will make it much easier to jet and less detonation issues better on fuel and much crisper throttle response. I’m not talking about raising compression so much. You can have the squish tightened up then have the cc of the dome opened back up to stock cc or even go to what say apex is using as there xc head. I have no affiliation with any company just know that the apex heads are great bang for the buck and they can also just mod your stock head. Benefits of there head is you have different domes to swap if you bought multiple and if you did blow an engine up and it messed the head up you can just get a new dome rather than an entire head. Food for thought
@@whiteman3075 Thank you for the input. Struggling to find a solid jetting spec on my '23 125X.. seems I get close but then the temperature or elevation changes and im back to square one again. I'm in CT so some of the specs working for others is not working for my near sea-level elevation. Maybe i'll consider an apex head?
Just picked up a new '23 YZ125x today! What would you recommend for baseline jetting, I live in the mountains of NC and my riding varies between 1500-3800 feet
hey bud i just got my 2023 yz125x, im coming from 4 strokes so just trying to find the best fuel/oil ratio, it came with bunch of jets for the carb, and my last bike was a ktm 350 sx, fuel injected. So needless to say, i have no clue how to jet! i wanted the yz125x due to the fact that it was carborated because u can adjust so much but now Im affraid of screwing it up lol! I will be doing a lot of trail riding, live in Dallas TX. where should I look for a good mid of t he road settings? please advise, I would trully appriciate it! awesome vid by the way!!!
I would consider the pilot jet and needle we are currently running a good mid line. We plan on going a little leaner as it warms up. I would also go a little leaner on the main jet if you don't want to mess with it a bunch.
What jets came stock in this bike, I have a 23 125 non x though just wondering if your setting may be close to what I need to get mine to. Mine comes stock with a 160 main and 75 pilot
Same as you stock 23 125 non x. Dropped to a 68 pilot, stock needle.on the top clip AS 2 3/4. Big difference but I still feel rich on the bottom quarter throttle. May go down on the pilot one more.
Do these jet setting count for the UK i got a 22 yz 125 just installed this jet kit got it to idle with the idle screw turned all the way in 170 main jet 50 pilot not test ridden yet just fired up in the garage is it normal for the idle screw turnd all the way in
We went to the NYEF needle and backed the main down to a 160 now that the temps are up. I had a friend suggest an RM250 needle. I have it but we haven't had time to test it yet. Thank you! we are going to run some oxygenated fuel for Snow shoe to help with the elevation vs changing the carb for 1 race. Fingers crossed we don't pop the top end haha
NYEF on the second clip. We also went way out in left field and ordered a Suzuki RM250 needle at the suggestion of our buddy. It is very similar to the NYEF according to my son.
I’m curious your thoughts on 93 pump gas that contains ethanol vs 90 ethanol free. I bought a 2023 yz125x and have the same bogging off the bottom. Thank you so much for sharing.
I run 90 non ethanol and it still has a bog in first. I drop everything to the leaner side with the parts they gave me. It helped but still has that bog
@@ernesto_yz125x I ended up just going with a jd jet kit and going with the trail jetting. So far has been running pretty good. I tried the nyef-2nd clip 160 and 52 air screw 1 out and still had a bog off bottom. I did not play around with jetting or air screw after that I just put the jd jet kit back in.
@@ernesto_yz125x I put the RM250 needle jet clip in position 3 in mine and 52 pilot l,m making great progress in clean engine response get these running to their potential, and wow what a package!
I have the 22 and put a SC2 on it and am going back to the stock because the smart carb is not running good at all no matter what I do with it! And I might try a Lectron to because of the elevation I ride at I ride from 800 ft up to 6k feet so I need to be able to adjust the carb! Any tips?
Berad has a few videos on running a lectron on his 125x. He is a pretty skilled rider and seems to really like the lectron. To be completely honest, if you ride at drastically different elevations often a fuel injected 2 stroke would probably be the best solution.
@@eastsidelegend385 I was thinking about looking at the Husky 150..or ordering the Lectron beltron!Beltron..but I mostly ride where I live in the mtns at 4500 feet or higher!! I still have snow on the ground and have a couple months to think about it! I got a Apex head from BeRad and that is were I will get the lectron I have been in contact with him..my other choice is getting a 250fx the 23..
@@slayer6936 If you aren't doing super technical Enduro riding that 250fx would be an outstanding bike I believe. I would personally love to have a plated wr 250 or 450. I have a 22 125x as well.
I installed the NYCG needle today and its like riding a different bike, the mid-range is SO much stronger and smoother. My specs as of now
Riding Elev 2-4000 feet 52 pilot 162 main NYCG-2 Air Screw 3 turns out 40:1 Motorex Crosspower I am thinking I may need to drop the pilot down to a 50? At three turns out that is sort at the far end of acceptable no? Thoughts?
you should be able to use a mikuni on these newer bike. a carb just atomises the fuel before it gets sucked into the engine so any carb will work. the older gen yz125 i have one and i run both mikuni, lectron and i know others with the keihein airstriker carb and they all work fine.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I was going in the right direction but was still a long way off from your recommended settings. I ended up going with the next step you were contemplating (52 pilot, 170 main) and the bike ran great at my temp and elevation (90°/2700ft). Thanks again!
Great video thank you for the information. We have been struggling with this 125x for so long that it is frustrating. Ran across your post and it definitely perked her up. Running at about 1600 FT elevation in 40 to 50s right now. Heading to a scramble short course race this weekend so we'll see how she goes
Great job dude. Love seeing people sort this kinda stuff out to help other owners/racers to get there bikes running sweet. Keep up the good work!👍
Thank you!
Great job sharing is caring its about your experience & letting other people experience the same results racing 🏁 is definitely down to your skills as a driver I know having a good bike also helps but you want people to enjoy there yamaha experience & hats off for sharing your knowledge a very admirable thing to do have a smashing evening enjoy your week great content 👊💨
Thank you so much for this video and sharing your knowledge. I ride a good mix of single track and mx and this really helped.
I purchased a 2023 yz125 earlier this year. Did the break in to the manual, and to their specs. Not even 2 hours on it and I was fouling plugs almost every 10 minutes and nothing seemed to help. Long story short, I returned it to the dealership and thought I had a lemon.
I found a 2023 monster edition yz125 and purchased it and the bike was fine throughout break in. The power felt great and I loved the bike, it just would load up in the corners and at about 6 hours on the bike it would foul a plug almost every hour. I would change the plug and it would scream again. After trying a few different jet settings via the manual I thought I had another dud.
Stock settings:
Pilot: 75
Main: 160
AS: 2&5/8
Needle: NYDF-2
Yamalube 2r: 40:1
Sparkplug: BR9EIX
New settings:
Pilot: 52
Main: 168
AS: 1
Needle: NYDF-2
Yamalube 2r: 40:1
Sparkplug: BR9EIX
The bike after the new settings had the same power (bottom to top) as the stock settings which I didn’t want to change, but there’s no load up in the corners anymore and no more fouled plugs. I was very relieved today after riding, I rode tight single track as well as mx track and it barely needed any clutch. Can’t thank you enough for this video!!!
The most noticeable build up was on the bottom end and partial throttle. After tuning the carb I’ve ran the same plug close to 8 hours and still no issues and I’m absolutely in love with the yz125. If it werent for this video I would’ve sold the bike and gone with a different company though. Poor jetting from factory.
Elevation and temperature?
1060’ ASL (Omaha,Ne)
70F - 100F
Bikes been running solid with no more fouled plugs
4:53 - Pilot air screw 0 means no changes versus STD setting which is 1 and 1/2 turns out (see TIP below table in manual)
I wanted to buy a yz125x. Last year and could not find one to buy . I ended up with a 01 Honda cr125 used in excellent original low hours . Runs perfectly always . I trail ride it 😎
Mr. Woodrum,
I found success with the NYEF needle in clip 5 (trial and error starting in 2nd clip) with 58p and 165m...note running 32:1 Klotz R50 and 51T rear sprocket at sea level. Me 2024 125X sings fine tunes on the stock pipe now! No bogging and lifts on to the powerband much quicker than the stock setup. 51T rear sprocket idea came from Josh Mosiman suggestion in recent MXA testing. 130/80r18 M5B Evo rear tire hooks with the 51T.
If you want a wall of torque and a stronger and wider top end, consider the Super X by SuperTorque/STIC. I know YZ125X riders that were astounded at the big power. In the low end it has an unstoppable lug, better than new 250F's. Broad full race tune. Best part is, your shift point is no longer on a narrow rom range. Also very stable for a buddies Virginia temp swings...tested down to 36° F.
ive never made a change to the mikuni on my 2020 125x and i never have problems. i fouled one plug the day i got it but i figured that was the break in oil/fuel mix the dealer used
Just bought a 2024 YZ 125 and it is definately boggy down low. A very fun to ride bike. I'd really like to soup it up with a few more ponies and a stronger bottom end. It's got that angry hornets nest sound. I'm subbing.
My 24 runs like dog water it's so bad dealership said that's the way it's supposed to be and I've had multiple 125s and this bike by far is the slowest least powerful yamaha I've ever had supper disappointed
@@benpearce628 I agree. I'm thinking on rejetting and a new cpu and going back to 32 to 1 fuel oil mixture. I should've bought the 2024 gasgas mc 125. That's the baddest 125 out there that's carburated. I've lo got the 2024 Husqvarna TC 250 fuel injected. I'm happy with it.
Very well done sir..
There is also a boost jet in that carb that opens up in the midrange based on throttle position and maybe rpm. Most people don’t mess with it but it gives you another tuning option.
250s generally run smaller jets than 125s because they pull more vacuum.
I did not know that about the 250's. Thanks!
Power jet #50 is stock on 250’s but most 250x riders switch it out to a #40
On my 23 yz125x, I settled on 52 pilot,nycf-1,165 main or nyef-3 needle for a snappier response. I also liked 55 pilot,nycg-1,165 main or nyeg-3 for a more instant response off idle. 500ft, 28 degrees.
I installed a stic super x carb by stic super torque as i was still chasing more out of the stock setup. The bike now is totally transformed from top to bottom. I would carry out this modification before a pipe or cylinder head change. It rides like a 150 now! It has a wall of torque off the bottom and a super strong but smooth top end, with fantasic over rev characteristics. So far, riding from 500-2500ft, 18-38*c has not required even an airscrew or jet adjustment.
Can you give more detail about this mod? I tried to find "stic super x carb by stic super torque" on the internet. Not sure what mod you made.
@donaldbuckner2935 The Stic Super X carb is a complete bolt in carb. The super X body is based on a pwk air striker keihin. Short and long body versions are available, but the X is very different internally to the keihin.
The X has a different jet block assembly, an additional air correction jet passage in the intake bellow that is linked to the jet block, and the carb is bored out to 39/40mm.
The X creates a large pressurisation and pressure drops in the entry, midpoint, and exit of the jet tube. These processes help to atomise and super cool the fuel mixture, allowing a complete combustion process that is unmatched by any other brand carb. As well as an increase in power, this allows the carb to operate in a large range of environmental differences such as elevation or temp changes, without the need to re-jet. A tweak of the airscrew is all that is required if necessary.
As the pilot jet is sealed off from the float bowl it draws fuel from a passage in the jet block, this process at intermediate and above engine speeds now reverses flow and now feeds the main jet additional air and fuel vapor which accumulates at the intake bellow area this reverse flow process further enhances the mid range and top acceleration. The addition of the air correction jet allows the airscrew to be reduced to 1-2 turns range over the previous metering block setup, which generally ran at 3-4 turns out.
On my bike, the single biggest improvement in power from bottom to top and creating a very wide usable power curve for a 125 2 stroke came from the Super X carb. No joke people who I have offered rides to say, is it a 150? I have undertaken further mods as I got the power bug, but no bolt on mod came close to what difference the X carb made on its own. Every bolt on mod since the X carb has only slightly added on to the already mind-blowing usable power the X created. I would recommend this carb be fitted before a big bore kit,pipe, or cylinder head change.
As Stic Super torque no longer advertise and their website is in the dinosaur era, they rely on word of mouth for advertising. Here are their contact details. I have no affiliation, just a happy customer.
3730 Hemlock Ln. Eagle River, WI 54521
Phone:715-479-7842
Email: vortex@sticfuel.us
@@patrickrushton2046 Thanks for the response! You obviously understand your carb thoroughly!
We had the same problem with the new 125. Was set up from the book from the dealership and it wouldn't run but 15 seconds top. Done some digging and they send them too lean. Had to put the winter tune in it and being 75 degrees in indiana is still the tune to be at. Not sure what the deal is
Noticed this same thing on my sons 2023 125. It’s the reg 125 not the X but motor should be the same. Just the gearing is different I believe. It’s so rich stock, I’m in the SoCal hi desert, 3800 ft elevation. Changed the pilot leaner 1 step and it helped, I’m 2 5/8 out on the air screw. This is where the manual says stock setting is. So I believe 0 is the 2 5/8 and it says +1/4. So I think it’s another 1/4 turn when you do the changes by the manual. Might go 1 step leaner on the pilot and should be 1 1/2 to 2 turns on the air screw. Changed the needle to the 1 leaner needle at same position 2 on the clip, which should be a half step. Position 2 on the needle is stock also. It helped but still have the bottom end bog. Like when you get into the throttle fast there is a bog, then it comes alive. The needle helped it a little so I think I’m gonna go back to stock needle all the way up top on the clip. Not sure I need to change the main since it sounds good WOT. Maybe a little rich but I’d rather that than lean. If you feather the clutch the bog ain’t there at all. But when you snap the throttle off bottom, without feathering the clutch, there is a hesitation. It’s all down low so I’m figuring pilot or needle, but, I’m not sure if the main might need to go down 1 since it’s when you grab a hand full of throttle. Goes against everything in carb tuning but IDK. Gonna mess with it a little more but you are right. This thing is super rich out the box. Maybe jetted for sea level but it is rich. Thanks for the video at least I know I’m on the right track.
I was running into the same issues as you were, getting the low end bog especially when not using the clutch. I went down from a 75 to a 72 on my pilot but the bike didnt seem to have the same power as the stock settings and still seemed to have a bit of a bog on the bottom. switched to the following settings and it still had the same power as stock just with out the bottom end bog and fouled plugs. Bike has ran amazing for the past 4 hours since retuning.
Pilot: 52
Main: 168
AS: 1
Needle: NYDF-2
Yamalube 2r: 40:1
Sparkplug: BR9EIX
@@UnitedKanedom Interesting you are using NGK iridium spark plug.
I will try your jetting settings.
My 23 X is bogging down just off idle too.
Should be easy to tune out.
@@UnitedKanedomI stepped the pilot down to a 58 helped a lot. Needs like a 55 or step below, main should be right at 162-165. I hear that the Yamaha gytr y3 needle cleans up the lower end bog. Jd jetting has a kit and told me it fixes the problem. They said they are still working on the 125x kit. I don’t have the x.
You can go 1 step richer on the slide from a 7 to a 6 and it might get it closer to working with the stock needles. Or step the needle richer from NYDF to NYDE or NYDD. This is a smaller shaft to richen up the low end. But the same clip positions. It’s a lean bog not a rich bog. This carb is flooding out the bike nasty, it’s way too rich. The main can go up a little and helps it pull longer but pilot is fat and the needle is lean.
I called keihin and talked to a tech also. He told me the carb should be adjusted juts like any other. Change the pilot and get 1-2 turns out of the air screw. So the pilot is way too big, it’s like Yamaha tried to fix the needle or slide problem with the fat pilot which is wrong. The bike once it’s off the bottom it rips, I just want it to roll the throttle and not bog.
Alot of people are blaming alot of that sluggish lack of power and poor accelerator under the power band all on the rich pilot it's not just that its really lean in the clip as well. My 23 come stock with the nydf needle on clip 2 and its was really lean in the clip it had a lean dog out if u rolled into it to hard when I was under the pipe. Moved it to 3 and what a huge difference cleared that up and it was really linear on nydf 2 when it first got on the pipe, now it hits alot harder and rolls onto the pipe easier. I'm gonna try nydf at 4 some point soon or maybe try the half clip leaner needle in 4.
Interesting... my bike came with the NYCF-2
What do you mean by "lean dog out"? Do you mean it was too lean and down on power? Thank you!
If u get going real slow in 3rd or 2nd and roll into the throttle hard while ur still under the powerband and let it climb up in rpms without clutching, it will start to bog and loose speed and power before it can get into the powerband, noticed going leaner in the pilot really didn't help with it or the poor reposne down low or roll on time before you get into the powerband. When I went to nydf 3 it fixed all of that It really gave it that bottom usable power it was lacking and improving mid range alot, even noticed its way easier clearing certain jumps with shorter run ups at my house after making the clip change, way better powerband hit
tc125 2021(full fmf and titanium silencer ) 490 main 32.5 pilot 2nd clip position. Hope this helps anyone
Why not just add the mikuni carb? Did you try and how did it go? I really want my 23 to have more bottom end
I finally landed on the NYCG needle on the 2nd clip. Super crisp throttle. I'm using 55 pilot and 165 main. AS 2 1/4 out. Stock jetting was ridiculously rich and the manual is way off IMO.
On a 23 125x? How’s your plug look? Not too lean?
Yes, on a 2023 125X. My plug is actually still a bit rich overall. I haven't done a WOT plug chop, so I'm going by feel on the top end. If I was riding only MX, I would go up one on the main jet.
What elevation do you ride with those settings typically?
@@MountainStorz Anywhere from 600'-2200' ASL so far.
Maybe a small right crank seal leak. Seems out of the ordinary for a new bike to run so bad
Can you list what different needles and jets come stock with the bike. I'm picking up my 23 in a couple weeks and want to have a few options to try...but don't want to buy something I'll already have.
Great video, I'm been trying to find information on this all winter in prep for spring. Thanks again!
Needle:
NYCF - In the bike
NYDF - extra
(I did talk to a kid last week that has a regular 125 and his came with an NYEF)
Main - 160, 162, 165, 168
Pilot - 62, 65, 68, 70
@@woodrumracingvlogs Just wondering your opinion on the 23 compared to the older version. My son rides a 20 125x and I really liked it so I bought a 23. I'm a little disappointed as his seems to be a much better woods bike. I used your jetting spec which really helped but I find the suspension a lot less plush and the bottom end doesn't seem as strong. My bike struggles to get on the pipe without clutching where the older bike has much better squirt out of corners. Anyway, just wondering if you found the same or maybe it just mine.
First off, thanks for posting! Secondly, you said you're running a 40:1 mix. I have a 2022 and manual calls for 30:1 mix. You said it runs rich, a 40:1 mix is 33% more rich than 30:1. That could be your issue (math: 40/30=1.33, or reverse it, 30x1.33=39.9). I bought my bike used with low hours, guy said he was running 40:1 and that felt rich when I rode it. I drained the fuel and went 30:1 and bike runs much crisper. My 0.02
Isn't 40:1 leaner than 30:1 ? 1:1 is the richest so as gas volume goes up to oil volume it becomes leaner. 50:1 is very lean? Do I have this wrong? Thank you
40:1 is richer because there’s more fuel per liter than 30:1. Richer or leaner refers to fuel, not oil.
Just wondering since you have more races on the bike and have had more time to adjust did you change from your settings in the video or did you stick to them? Thanks dude. Picked up a 24 yz125x and it was so rich if fouled plugs on the ride trying to get the dealership gas out so i could use my mix and ratio.😂 leaned the needle and piolit and it runs now but i got more work to do. Ordering needle and jets soon.
What did you end up doing im still struggling to get my 24 to run right
I still have a bog off the bottom. From about 1/8th turn until half throttle. Scratching my head. Running the JD jet kit 50 pilot, 180 main. Blue needle in clip 3. Did you find a way to fix it? I was running super M 32:1. Going to try the motorex at 40:1. Thinking of dropping the clip position to a 4 or 5 for the next move.
I went down on both main jet and pilot jet. The bike is too rich. Also changed that needle to the one they gave you extra. Use non ethanol gas 32:1 Amsoil interceptor but leak oil from tail pipe. Now i just bought some Yamalube 2R and hopefully will.not the spooge. Bike runs good but still has that bottom issue but a little better with this change.
Why did you go up on the main? Wouldn't that make it more rich?
Thanks for video
We went up on the main because the bike was lean on top end. We did a plug test on the top end by getting the bike wide open, pulling in the clutch and hitting the kill switch (or so we were told). Pulled the plug out and it was definitely on the white side so we went bigger. I could also just hear it while he was riding. You're welcome, glad you found it useful.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it but all these Yamaha bikes have too large of a squish band. You could make bikes way easier to jet if you buy a aftermarket head like the apex head with an xc or sx dome or even have someone cut your stock head. Tom Morgan racing or pro circuit. Apex can mod you stock head also. Great video
Interesting. Is this new for 2023 on the 125X?
@@scottardito7790 all of them have to big of squish from factory so they can run on crappy fuel in other countries and the x models is worse than the standard yz. Squish makes all the difference in a 2 stroke. I do believe that the new 125 engine jetting is not as good as the previous engine but like I said fixing the squish will make it much easier to jet and less detonation issues better on fuel and much crisper throttle response. I’m not talking about raising compression so much. You can have the squish tightened up then have the cc of the dome opened back up to stock cc or even go to what say apex is using as there xc head. I have no affiliation with any company just know that the apex heads are great bang for the buck and they can also just mod your stock head. Benefits of there head is you have different domes to swap if you bought multiple and if you did blow an engine up and it messed the head up you can just get a new dome rather than an entire head. Food for thought
@@whiteman3075 Thank you for the input. Struggling to find a solid jetting spec on my '23 125X.. seems I get close but then the temperature or elevation changes and im back to square one again. I'm in CT so some of the specs working for others is not working for my near sea-level elevation. Maybe i'll consider an apex head?
@@scottardito7790 I would go route and get the xc and sx inserts. You won’t regret it. Head mods on these bikes are one of the best mods you can do.
Just picked up a new '23 YZ125x today! What would you recommend for baseline jetting, I live in the mountains of NC and my riding varies between 1500-3800 feet
Motorex 40:1 is what I plan to run (if that is OK in this bike)
hey bud i just got my 2023 yz125x, im coming from 4 strokes so just trying to find the best fuel/oil ratio, it came with bunch of jets for the carb, and my last bike was a ktm 350 sx, fuel injected. So needless to say, i have no clue how to jet! i wanted the yz125x due to the fact that it was carborated because u can adjust so much but now Im affraid of screwing it up lol! I will be doing a lot of trail riding, live in Dallas TX. where should I look for a good mid of t he road settings? please advise, I would trully appriciate it! awesome vid by the way!!!
I would consider the pilot jet and needle we are currently running a good mid line. We plan on going a little leaner as it warms up. I would also go a little leaner on the main jet if you don't want to mess with it a bunch.
@@woodrumracingvlogs thanks brother. will try that.
I think the reason it’s so rich is because you are lean on oil. The less oil the richer the fuel mixture will be.
try 32/1 mixture.....thats what makes the yz's sing
I fixed my 2020 x ...JD kit and a YZ CDI. good bottom end ,strong mid range and screams on top.
What jets came stock in this bike, I have a 23 125 non x though just wondering if your setting may be close to what I need to get mine to. Mine comes stock with a 160 main and 75 pilot
Yes, I believe that is what was in mine when we got it.
Same as you stock 23 125 non x. Dropped to a 68 pilot, stock needle.on the top clip AS 2 3/4. Big difference but I still feel rich on the bottom quarter throttle. May go down on the pilot one more.
Do these jet setting count for the UK i got a 22 yz 125 just installed this jet kit got it to idle with the idle screw turned all the way in 170 main jet 50 pilot not test ridden yet just fired up in the garage is it normal for the idle screw turnd all the way in
Depending on your elevation. We are around 800 ft above sea level
Ant updates on jetting? Good luck at snowshoe.
We went to the NYEF needle and backed the main down to a 160 now that the temps are up. I had a friend suggest an RM250 needle. I have it but we haven't had time to test it yet. Thank you! we are going to run some oxygenated fuel for Snow shoe to help with the elevation vs changing the carb for 1 race. Fingers crossed we don't pop the top end haha
What’s the temp there, sea level ? I’m in NY and having issues
mid 80"s. 800 ft give or take.
What are you running in the summer? What can you add the links to the jets and needle you used?
NYEF on the second clip. We also went way out in left field and ordered a Suzuki RM250 needle at the suggestion of our buddy. It is very similar to the NYEF according to my son.
So your running the same pilot and main that you have in the video for the summer?
So what was your summer settings? Still playing with mine, after figuring all this out what would you change for the cooler weather.
I’m curious your thoughts on 93 pump gas that contains ethanol vs 90 ethanol free. I bought a 2023 yz125x and have the same bogging off the bottom. Thank you so much for sharing.
I run 90 ethanol free pump gas in my 23 and it does just fine
I run 90 non ethanol and it still has a bog in first. I drop everything to the leaner side with the parts they gave me. It helped but still has that bog
brother i am having the same oroblem with my new 23yz125x
@@ernesto_yz125x I ended up just going with a jd jet kit and going with the trail jetting. So far has been running pretty good. I tried the nyef-2nd clip 160 and 52 air screw 1 out and still had a bog off bottom. I did not play around with jetting or air screw after that I just put the jd jet kit back in.
@@ernesto_yz125x I put the RM250 needle jet clip in position 3 in mine and 52 pilot l,m making great progress in clean engine response get these running to their potential, and wow what a package!
I have the 22 and put a SC2 on it and am going back to the stock because the smart carb is not running good at all no matter what I do with it! And I might try a Lectron to because of the elevation I ride at I ride from 800 ft up to 6k feet so I need to be able to adjust the carb! Any tips?
Maybe at 800 ft but not 6,000!! That's a tough one. You need more fuel the higher you go correct?
Berad has a few videos on running a lectron on his 125x. He is a pretty skilled rider and seems to really like the lectron. To be completely honest, if you ride at drastically different elevations often a fuel injected 2 stroke would probably be the best solution.
@@eastsidelegend385 I was thinking about looking at the Husky 150..or ordering the Lectron beltron!Beltron..but I mostly ride where I live in the mtns at 4500 feet or higher!! I still have snow on the ground and have a couple months to think about it! I got a Apex head from BeRad and that is were I will get the lectron I have been in contact with him..my other choice is getting a 250fx the 23..
@@slayer6936 If you aren't doing super technical Enduro riding that 250fx would be an outstanding bike I believe. I would personally love to have a plated wr 250 or 450. I have a 22 125x as well.
@@woodrumracingvlogs Less fuel as you go up, thinner air so you have to compensate by leaning the bike.
I installed the NYCG needle today and its like riding a different bike, the mid-range is SO much stronger and smoother. My specs as of now
Riding Elev 2-4000 feet
52 pilot
162 main
NYCG-2
Air Screw 3 turns out
40:1 Motorex Crosspower
I am thinking I may need to drop the pilot down to a 50? At three turns out that is sort at the far end of acceptable no? Thoughts?
hey what color is your spark blug?
Is it possible to install 2021 YZ Mikuni carb on 2023 model? Will it make it ride like 2021 YZ?
Not sure but it has crossed my mind
you should be able to use a mikuni on these newer bike. a carb just atomises the fuel before it gets sucked into the engine so any carb will work. the older gen yz125 i have one and i run both mikuni, lectron and i know others with the keihein airstriker carb and they all work fine.
Different CDI for the carb.
JD jetting has my 23 on dyno right now let you know results
how was the results?
Put a Lectron on my 23, it rips.