Wonderful teaching of security! I really really appreciated, and my fingers and my arms too! Very grateful! Thanks! I'll remember this lesson forever! Hugs
When in high school, my teacher had me cutting some boards on the bandsaw. As I was cutting one of the boards, the saw blade broke. The blade somehow flew out of the machine, zooming past my throat up to the ceiling. I could feel the air movement as it went by. The teacher was trying to save money and the blade had broken before and he had brazed it together as a repair. The brazed joint broke and somehow I escaped serious injury in this mishap. I found this video of yours as now my daughter is in the very same shop at school and will be using the bandsaw. Hopefully, your tips will help keep her safer than what happened to me.
Thanks for publishing this. I made a notable mistake with a bandsaw (awhile back, before seeing your video) and ended being very grateful for the eye protection I wore. I tried to resaw a curved cheeseboard to make it thinner. The face was up against a fence, but I definitely didn't have the solid base all the through on the edge. While cutting, the piece rotated before I could blink and flew apart in lots of directions. No kickback, but *lots* of force against the table. Stupid of me in retrospect - I'm glad you cover this in the video.
it is very easy to unfold a band without throwing it on the floor. you have to find the loop that is "free" of the other two and then carefully uncoil them. There are several videos on youtube showing this. Practicing with a lawnmower belt is a pretty safe way to learn the trick. Throwing the band on the floor risks damaging the sharp teeth!
Very informative, and timely. My bandsaw will arrive in a few days, it's still at getting off the container ship, and I wanted to brush up on safety. Learned lots. Thanks Tom!
Someone who has used a bandsaw for a while will be comfortable (and potentially very safe) using a machine like this with their fingers close to the blade as in your video. But for beginners -- and really, anyone in my mind -- it's best to keep your hands out of the "blood bubble" which extends at least 2-3 inches from the blade in all directions (behind the blade being a possible exception because it's a fairly safe place to grab the wood as it passes by the saw blade).
Hilarious description details. So the fact that butchers use them means they can do a lot of damage? Whereas before I thought they were safe because they only cut wood and metal?!? Absolute classic.
All kinds of safety tips for using a bandsaw but the little pieces that are thrown onto the floor are slip/trip hazards. It helps to have a small bucket next to the saw for those cutoffs.
Question: When using a cradle to cut round stock, can we place the entire cradle off to one side of the blade or does it need to support the round stock on both sides of the blade? Obviously, it's more desirable to place it off to the side to avoid destruction of the jig, but is that safe?
Hello, Thanks for contacting us. It depends on how large the work piece is. For smaller stuff, it should be fine to leave the sled on one side of the blade. The larger the work piece, the more cumbersome it will be when the piece is cut, and having something cumbersome happen near a running saw is not a good situation. Paul WoodWorkers Guild Of America
So I have woodshop and well I get scared easily you could say so today in woodshop I was supposed to go out in the shop and start working on my car (it’s made out of cardboard) but instead I said and did nothing for 30 minutes bc I was too scared I thought like I couldn’t do it or I’d cut my fingers off and I’m still really scared but I just have to do it. Btw I took all the safety tests and passed them Ik how to work the machines I’m only watching this video bc I was nervous
Love your video! Please, some advice: I'm cutting 1/16 in thick wood strips. The problem is that I get "ribbing" in the finish piece that requires extensive sanding. I'm using a 93 in by .5 by 14 teeth per inch. blade. The blade seems to have a slight "kink" in it as it comes around. Could that be the problem? it's a new blade. how does the kink get in there and how do you take it out? J
+Jon Woods Ridges on a bandsaw cut are common, and unavoidable to some extent. It is possible that you can improve your situation, but don't expect a mirror-like surface off of any bandsaw blade. There are a couple potential culprits to consider: - the kink that you are referring to is generally either a result of bending the blade too far while it was being coiled up for storage, or more commonly, the result of an imperfect weld at the seam. Take a good straightedge and carefully check the blade right at the point where the band is welded. If you can see any misalignment there, that could cause or contribute to the problem that you are seeing. - Also check the drift compensation on your bandsaw's fence. This concept is discussed here: www.wwgoa.com/video/resawing-on-a-bandsaw-004775/. - Perhaps it's obvious, but a dull or marginal blade can also cause this problem. I had a situation a couple years ago where I was going crazy trying to troubleshoot a problem similar to yours on a bandsaw, and I wasn't making any progress. It was a brand new blade. Out of desparation I tried a different blade (same model) and it worked perfectly. Definitely a dull blade can cause a lot of problems as well. Hopefully that gives you something to work with. Good luck getting your bandsaw to run to its full potential.
Me again, okay I installed my Timber Wolf gold plated blade. All I can say is that I'm glad I went against my cheap gene. It makes all the difference in the world. I guess that my old harbor frieght blade just wasn't as hi quality as I had hoped. The harbor blade is still very good for general cutting but when you need a real clean cut, the Timber Wolf is the answer. In fact, the harbor freight blade was a regular 14 tpi. the Timber is a regiular 10 tpi yet still makes smoother cuts. Thanks for the feed back. By the way, Timber Wolf has a very specific way of tensioning their blades. It's in print with the new blade and is printed online at : www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing.html. I'd love to see a video of this way of tensioning. The word "flutter" is subjective. I'm guessing that if they can manufacture such a great blade, they must know a thing or two on how to properly tension it. Jon
Man, I wanna be friends with this guy. Seems like just the coolest dude you wanna hang out and trade stories with.
Thank you. Safety is everything in woodworking!
You got that right!
Wonderful teaching of security! I really really appreciated, and my fingers and my arms too!
Very grateful! Thanks! I'll remember this lesson forever! Hugs
When in high school, my teacher had me cutting some boards on the bandsaw. As I was cutting one of the boards, the saw blade broke. The blade somehow flew out of the machine, zooming past my throat up to the ceiling. I could feel the air movement as it went by.
The teacher was trying to save money and the blade had broken before and he had brazed it together as a repair. The brazed joint broke and somehow I escaped serious injury in this mishap.
I found this video of yours as now my daughter is in the very same shop at school and will be using the bandsaw. Hopefully, your tips will help keep her safer than what happened to me.
@Evan Jackson no plz
Thank you so much for this!!
I just got my first bandsaw and I want to make sure I don't get hurt when woodworking.
This was very helpful, giving me a respect for the machine but also increasing confidence substantially. Thanks!
Excellent advice, thank you
Thanks for publishing this. I made a notable mistake with a bandsaw (awhile back, before seeing your video) and ended being very grateful for the eye protection I wore. I tried to resaw a curved cheeseboard to make it thinner. The face was up against a fence, but I definitely didn't have the solid base all the through on the edge. While cutting, the piece rotated before I could blink and flew apart in lots of directions. No kickback, but *lots* of force against the table. Stupid of me in retrospect - I'm glad you cover this in the video.
Great video, just bought my first bandsaw, and I never considered some of these risks. Thank you for sharing.
it is very easy to unfold a band without throwing it on the floor. you have to find the loop that is "free" of the other two and then carefully uncoil them. There are several videos on youtube showing this. Practicing with a lawnmower belt is a pretty safe way to learn the trick.
Throwing the band on the floor risks damaging the sharp teeth!
shadecustomsawing I will throw it at the wall then!
I absolutely love the quality of WWGOA videos. George and Tom's teachings are some of the best out there.
Very informative, and timely. My bandsaw will arrive in a few days, it's still at getting off the container ship, and I wanted to brush up on safety. Learned lots. Thanks Tom!
thanks. i just ordered my first bandsaw and needed this info.
Someone who has used a bandsaw for a while will be comfortable (and potentially very safe) using a machine like this with their fingers close to the blade as in your video. But for beginners -- and really, anyone in my mind -- it's best to keep your hands out of the "blood bubble" which extends at least 2-3 inches from the blade in all directions (behind the blade being a possible exception because it's a fairly safe place to grab the wood as it passes by the saw blade).
thank you just bought my first bandsaw never used one before great tips will certainly make sure I remember the warnings thanks again
Seems like the nicest guy ever, such a good video as well.
Such a great tutorial! Thanks it has been a huge help.
Excellent Video, thanks for taking the time to help beginners.
Thank you for the instruction. Much appreciated.
Thank you for the tips and safety pointers.. and especially for the lesson on blade uncoiling and coiling ! Great stuff here !
ty for this pleasant enriching guide.
Thank you. Informative and helpful.
Excellent video many thanks...
Very thorough & informative - Thanks!
Just bought a 14" Grizzly, wanted to make sure I operate it safely!
Thank you for great tips
Any time!
thank you
Hilarious description details. So the fact that butchers use them means they can do a lot of damage? Whereas before I thought they were safe because they only cut wood and metal?!? Absolute classic.
All kinds of safety tips for using a bandsaw but the little pieces that are thrown onto the floor are slip/trip hazards. It helps to have a small bucket next to the saw for those cutoffs.
you are a very nice teacher....thank you
Thank you sir!
Great video, well explained and i will heed your advice.
I would never let my fingers that close to a moving blade of any kind. A 6" push stick should be used.
Thanks for sharing this. Great information.
Great video. I have noticed that the guides sometimes spark. Does this pose a fire hazard with the dust collection system?
Excellent video.
I like his vibe.
Love this guy. Thank you for the informative vid.
Question: When using a cradle to cut round stock, can we place the entire cradle off to one side of the blade or does it need to support the round stock on both sides of the blade? Obviously, it's more desirable to place it off to the side to avoid destruction of the jig, but is that safe?
Hello,
Thanks for contacting us. It depends on how large the work piece is. For smaller stuff, it should be fine to leave the sled on one side of the blade. The larger the work piece, the more cumbersome it will be when the piece is cut, and having something cumbersome happen near a running saw is not a good situation.
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild Of America
Very informative video. Thank you very much
Very informative, thanks.
for 12 cm thick wood what can also?
thanks!
So I have woodshop and well I get scared easily you could say so today in woodshop I was supposed to go out in the shop and start working on my car (it’s made out of cardboard) but instead I said and did nothing for 30 minutes bc I was too scared I thought like I couldn’t do it or I’d cut my fingers off and I’m still really scared but I just have to do it. Btw I took all the safety tests and passed them Ik how to work the machines I’m only watching this video bc I was nervous
Love your video! Please, some advice: I'm cutting 1/16 in thick wood strips. The problem is that I get "ribbing" in the finish piece that requires extensive sanding. I'm using a 93 in by .5 by 14 teeth per inch. blade. The blade seems to have a slight "kink" in it as it comes around. Could that be the problem? it's a new blade. how does the kink get in there and how do you take it out? J
+Jon Woods Ridges on a bandsaw cut are common, and unavoidable to some extent. It is possible that you can improve your situation, but don't expect a mirror-like surface off of any bandsaw blade. There are a couple potential culprits to consider:
- the kink that you are referring to is generally either a result of bending the blade too far while it was being coiled up for storage, or more commonly, the result of an imperfect weld at the seam. Take a good straightedge and carefully check the blade right at the point where the band is welded. If you can see any misalignment there, that could cause or contribute to the problem that you are seeing.
- Also check the drift compensation on your bandsaw's fence. This concept is discussed here: www.wwgoa.com/video/resawing-on-a-bandsaw-004775/.
- Perhaps it's obvious, but a dull or marginal blade can also cause this problem. I had a situation a couple years ago where I was going crazy trying to troubleshoot a problem similar to yours on a bandsaw, and I wasn't making any progress. It was a brand new blade. Out of desparation I tried a different blade (same model) and it worked perfectly. Definitely a dull blade can cause a lot of problems as well.
Hopefully that gives you something to work with. Good luck getting your bandsaw to run to its full potential.
+WoodWorkers Guild Of America Thanks. I'll let you know. Jon
Me again, okay I installed my Timber Wolf gold plated blade. All I can say is that I'm glad I went against my cheap gene. It makes all the difference in the world. I guess that my old harbor frieght blade just wasn't as hi quality as I had hoped. The harbor blade is still very good for general cutting but when you need a real clean cut, the Timber Wolf is the answer. In fact, the harbor freight blade was a regular 14 tpi. the Timber is a regiular 10 tpi yet still makes smoother cuts. Thanks for the feed back. By the way, Timber Wolf has a very specific way of tensioning their blades. It's in print with the new blade and is printed online at : www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing.html. I'd love to see a video of this way of tensioning. The word "flutter" is subjective. I'm guessing that if they can manufacture such a great blade, they must know a thing or two on how to properly tension it. Jon
Thank You! GREAT VIdeo!
What a great video! Thank you!
Good tips
what wa it like to anounce the cubs?
Thanks u so much I learned lot
Where's the table pin?
Bandsaw
Way more safer than table saw
Thanks, young Bernie Sanders! Lol. I joke but awesome video and much appreciated.
Wheres the mic, in the next building??????
are you deaf, Sir?
Anyone form US?
Wales, United Kingdom.
I m beginner
Where is your table pin? Your table is gonna sag sooner or later.....
+brandon2076 Very observant! It was misplaced during this video shoot. :)
+WoodWorkers Guild Of America Thank you!
Sci tech gang
Sci Tech gang
thank you