I just stumbled across this video. It saved the day. I have 2 shafts that needed to be cut. I thought I'd need special equipment and precision. Watching you do it all willy-nilly gave me the confidence to do it! Now when I use my ditch bank mower I don't have to be so careful retracting the mower and I can pull it in all the way without destroying my tractor.
Hi. Great video of how to shorten shaft. Generally rule of thumb is when pto shaft on tractor and implement are level with each other that is the shortest point so measure shaft at that point and adjust it to fit. Also on the pto cover the white plastic collars do have a grease fitting which often gets overlooked but needs regular greasing to stop it wearing the plastic. Hope this is helpful to you and anybody else. Merry Christmas to you all from Lincolnshire England. Many thanks Pete
I must confess, I made a wrong guess, I thought it would be 1/2 inch on each piece, It kind of surprised me when you said it was an inch off of each piece.. learned something from Tractor Time with Time... Thank you teacher..
@@stacymoreland5541 I think the key for me to make sense of it, is that each end bottoms out at the same time. If you cut one end shorter, the other end will still bottom out at the same length. Whichever is longer determines how small the shaft can get when compressed. When you are determining how long the shaft can get, then each cut adds up. 1" off of each end will make the max length of the shaft 2" shorter.
Afternoon Tim, thank you for the excellent video. I'm just in the process of videotaping a Woodland Mills WC46 chipper build and will have to trim the PTO shaft. I'm just going to include a link to this video. Thanks for your tractor expertise! Stay safe!
Hi Tim, thanks to you and your wife for your dedication to sharing knowledge and providing good hearted advice from both your success and failure. The world needs more people like you all! Also, this video helped me alot. Keep up the good work and looking forward to more fun with TTWT! Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving.
Great job showing us how to do that. DIdn't think it would be tough, and you confirmed it. My normal dealer generally cuts them for me when I buy new implements, but this time I went to a different dealer and they handed me a pile of parts and said, "have fun" The price of saving a lot of money....
Oh my goodness I wish this video was available 4wks ago when I had to cut the PTO shaft of my new slasher! I agonized over cutting it all even with instruction from my tractor servicing neighbour. I could not get that plastic cover off the shaft! In the end I did a good job, albeit in 2 stages (advice from neighbour) of 100mm the first time followed by 55mm second time. I used a dremel to cut the plastic and a cut off disc on my electric grinder for the steel. Then I put a good bit of grease on everything including around the O-rings of the plastic covers and discovered I formed an airlock so I couldn't push the parts back together! :D Then fitting the shaft, I struggled to pull the ends apart just a little to fit onto the splines due to the airtight greased parts! Lol Anyway, all good now, I've had it apart a few times.
Really good video. First part needs better lighting (too dark). Followed Tim's instructions, got my shaft measured, cut, and installed in a half-hour. Thanks.
for cutting the shield you can put a hose clamp around it as a guide, also you can buy a complete pto shaft with shield almost as cheap as buying just a shield and trying to get the exact shield to fit your pto shaft can be hard. Agri supply does have shields. also if you have a compressor an inexpensive die grinder is great for deburring inside and outside of any kind of saw cut.
Thanks for the video. Might be a few years old, but it was a help today. We got a WoodMaxx blower to put on our Kubota LX2610. used loader forks to get the crated beast from the tractor trailer down at the road up to the house and in a heated garage. Got it all set up over a couple of evenings, other than the drive line. Needed to shorten the drive line and had never done one before. On our old BX, the drive line for the tiller, done by our local Kubota dealer, wasn't done well. Shields were trimmed too much. I was just as happy on this one to do it myself and learn how to do it right. Oh, and using a multi-tool to cut the shield made for very short work. Sawzall for the actual shaft. Took our time, got it right. Blower is running nicely. Now have plow blade on the front, blower on the rear. And can easily swap the plow for the bucket as needed.
Glad we could help, Dan. More recently, I have been using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut BOTH the plastic shield and the shaft. I have found this to be my most efficient approach. We have had to cut MANY shafts given the number of attachments we review.
You crack me up, TIm! After your last video showing Christy riding the loader to balance the load in it. I'm surprised you even worry about having PTO shaft covers. Those never were used until OSHA stepped in with their never-ending list of silly "safe-guards" against mindless idiots! The background for that rule was because a guy had loose shirt-tails when he was working around the shaft, and it got caught up in the shaft coupling and yanked him down against the tractor. It didn't kill him, but gave him some nasty bruises. My uncle has a JD 1050 and several PTO-driven implements for it. He was setting the depth of tillage on it, using the 3-point lever when he slipped on the muddy ground and hit his arm against the shaft guard on his tiller. Somehow the shaft made his guard spin enough to snap those little no-spin chains and one came up and slapped him in the face. Required 12 stitches! "Safety Guard"??? I don't think so! Almost took out his eye. Of course, it might have seriously bruised his arm, or even given him a terrible rub-burn. Once installed, how often do you even get close to the shaft until time to remove it? Do we have guards over that little shaft for the mid-PTO drive? No. Just look at the videos from the 50s and early 60s when PTOs were used widely and you will see NO shaft guards! And there weren't many accidents that a guard would have prevented back then. It only takes one to make it more difficult for the rest of us with OSHA!!! The operator just needs to use common sense and pay attention to what they're doing. If that's too much for them, they should stay in bed. This equipment isn't child's play. Sorry for being so long-winded!
The PTO drive shaft cover is very important to me. It is indeed easy to get something wrapped around the shaft, and have it pull you into it. I am NOT anti-safety. Rather, I am very PRO REAL safety rules.
I'm sorry that that happened to your uncle but am glad that he lived to tell the tale. I've read too many stories in our local newspaper over the years of farmers dying a grisly death wrapped around a PTO, I'll stick with the guards and hope that they work should I ever slip like your uncle did.
Tim I had to shorten my shaft when I attached my new tiller to my new Kioti. Then later I decided to put a Harbor Freight quick hitch on. The 3" I originally cut off wouldn't have had to happen. Lucky my shaft didn't have to be replaced.
The Red locking tab has a hole that allows you to use grease gun and lubricate the ring the plastic lock sits in. Learned that from a State Farm Safety video on PTO covers.
Hey Tim! Great video. Just so you know PTO shields are not universal. If you still have the manual for your tiller, check for the manufacturer. The shaft that you just cut looks like a Bondioli & Pavesi shaft. They are extremely common. But even they make different designs because they have been around for a long time. Best thing to do is check your manual and go from there! If you do not have a manual, bring the shaft with you and speak to a rep that know's a thing or 2 about PTO shafts and hopefully they can get you the right one! Just like your video, you will need to trim it to fit lol
I guess I understand the whole concept now, but it would have been nice maybe to show how to properly measure that cut. Possible taking the cover off first and then showing where the point A and point B would be to measure from.
Raising the three pt. usually brings the PTO shaft closer to attachment point correct? How do I know if I need to cut? PTO to long to connect? Will be attaching a 4 ft. rural king bush hog to a BX2680 Kubota sub compact tractor. Ok EVERYTHING ATTACHMENT gives a very good tutorial on how to measure implement PTO shaft to tractor PTO to see if it needs cut.
Great Infomation Video. The shafts are usally case harden, so you'll be awhile with a hacksaw. Use a file to remove the burrs. If you have to store your equipment outside: before backing up to it, slide the PTO shaft in and out a couple of times. It will save ya from tugging and fussing later.
There commonly is only one way they go together, to make sure the U-joints are aligned correctly, for constant velocity. If U-joint yolks aren't correctly aligned with one another, they will cause speed variations and vibration as the shaft is turned.
Exactly. I came to the comments to inform about it but read through some comments first :-) It is not intuitive and I wonder if some shafts can be put together more than one way. And the speed difference during one revolution depends on the angle of the joint. If they are the same it will counter each other out perfectly but if one like me have a hay baler with one long shaft (instead of two shorter, like some models have) it's advisable to have a long drawbar to get the connection point of tractor and baler to not be so close to the tractor.
I found a good video explaining the problem. It's the end of it about phasing that is guaranteed when the cross-section of the shaft isn't squares. ua-cam.com/video/gmV4qwLfOMY/v-deo.html
how do you adjust the PTO slip clutch had to take it apart to clean the clutches heard so many wats but one said tighten the nuts until the nut just touches the spring then turn 1 and a half turns do that to all 8 another said tighten the nut until you collapse the springs then back it off 2 turns whats the right way the manual doesn"t give anything good thing i pulled it apart it was frozen stuck if i hit something hard it would have not slipped and done damage to gear box or tractor what is the right adjustment please get back to me about the right adjustment THANKS
Hey Tim. Might be a good idea to talk about aligning the knuckles. A U joint has to be aligned properly, I know you said that one only inserted one direction, but some of the square ones have one correct way and three incorrect.
My grandpa had a brush hog on the 520 that the shaft was a little long and it took the race housing out the pto on the tractor. My dad got it welded up and it helped but i had to fix the clutch cause that went out on me. I bought a good used pto clutch assembly. Had my friend assess if the used clutch was good enough. The 520 shaft goes into the tractor about 6 inches is all and gears over to the side to the clutch then the clutch coupler shaft goes thru into the rear end. Eventually i plan on rebuilding my original cluch assembly cause that looks like a pain but the swap is easy
Go to the store you got your tiller from and they should be able to get a replacement cover for the PTO shaft. If you bought it online take the PTO shaft to your local tractor supply or sales place and they will get the correct one. A large retail center might even have one on the shelf for you............
Nice video Tim. If you find a source for the PTO Shield please share. I like the cover you demonstrated in video and I would like to get one as well to replace on one of my shafts.
I'm no Safety Nancy, but be aware of what that cover does and act accordingly if it's missing. Keep in mind it's not just you getting wrapped around it that can disfigure or kill you. Something else, like a tree vine, chain, wire fencing or cable could cause some nasty welts after you innocently back a rough cut into some brush.
Tim. I don't know how to contact you, Sooooo. I just received my own 2018 Johnny. We, me and my finance committee, bought it based on watching so many of your videos. I have pictures if you care to see them. Thank you all for making such great and informative videos.
Dear Tim I watched your video on UA-cam about your barn in the rat that you're experiencing you could dig down next to all of the post and sister a new 4 by 4 or 4 by 6 beside it drill through it and put some leg bolts or carriage bolts through it or you can put your rat guard on the bottom of your post on the good post next to the bad post and you could do one at a time that would be a very inexpensive way of fixing it and you would only need to go up about 8 feet at the most
I've had no luck finding replacement driveshaft covers up here in Canada you basically have to buy the shaft with the cover.. my shaft on my salter unit was seized together could not get a part so I had to cut the plastic guard off and heat the slip joint with the torch, currently running unit without the safety cover don't tell anyone LOL. Thanks for sharing
When faced with similar situation of rust seized parts. Submerge the assembly on a vinegar bath. Come back a couple days later. Clean and wash it under running water. Lubricate as needed and enjoy a fully functioning part. Cheers
So the bottom line for measuring is, find the shortest distance which is likely implement all the way up or down depending, and than keep the shaft as long as you can until it clears the spline on the tractor? That makes sense and it easier for me if that is the case. Thanks for the video!
Someone has probably addressed this in the comments already buy if you hold the sawzall all the way forward against the flat plate at the base of the blade it will not vibrate or jump around in your hand as you cut.
The shield is about the same price of a shaft. I priced one for my rotary mower. $130 FOR THE SHIELD. I didn't get a shield. Look on Amazon but no promises.
That didn't look too "scary", so now I feel like it can be done as necessary by.... me :) Thanks. As always, thanks for great videos. I should be getting my "Johnny" in two days :)
Tim, I have a really stupid question. How do you connect the PTO shafts to the 1025r? I thought they just slip on over the PTO shaft sticking out of the Tractor itself.
I meant , in general ,. does each attachment that requires a PTO shaft require a different length shaft , or do most implements made for John Deere 1025's use the same length ?? I have a 1025 in my future along with a few attachments , will one shat fit , or does each attachment need it's own shaft ? @@TractorTimewithTim
Tim, no one responds as well as you. please check my math: (1) distance between the collar on my Flail Mower shaft connection and the front of the PTO shaft on the tractor = 29 3/4". (2) gap needed 2". (3) Starting length of the brand new Flail PTO shaft, end-to-end = 33 1/4". Cutting the the chase, I think I need to cut off 5 1/2" on both ends?? Please help!! BTY I really learned a lot watching u show the boss how to used the back-hoe. especially when you told us how much more power you have when you "curl" than lift.
Tim how do I connect the shaft to the pto, it will not go on all the way. I get it lined up and starts to slid on but then there is resistance, I cannot force it on by hand and do not want to use a persuader (hammer), till I know there is not an easier way, I look on the pto of tractor and it has indentations half way , I look in the shaft ant it has ball bearings, how do I release the ball bearings to get it to slide on? Being a novice is not always fun especially when you get the answer and it is so simple you wonder why you did not think of it yourself. Hay Tim. H E L P!
There is a large ring around the ‘ball bearings’.pull that ring back, this will release the ball bearings so that they can slide over the shaft. Then, those ball bearings will ‘lock’ into the indentions you mention on the tractor shaft.
Careful of the metal slivers that fell in the open drawer under your vice. I always forget to close the drawers and end up with sawdust, metal shavings and other trash in my drawers too.
Hey tool time with Tim gotta get you a couple of files a flat a half round and a rat tail save your emery cloth for your plumbing jobs and a wire brush while your at it. That would cut down the chance of a metal sliver or jabbing your finger, but you old farmers are used to fixing anything with next to nothing...Hahahaha
Thanks Tim. Just bought a 4ft brush hog .needed a reminder on how to cut this.
Great video.
I just stumbled across this video. It saved the day. I have 2 shafts that needed to be cut. I thought I'd need special equipment and precision. Watching you do it all willy-nilly gave me the confidence to do it! Now when I use my ditch bank mower I don't have to be so careful retracting the mower and I can pull it in all the way without destroying my tractor.
Hi. Great video of how to shorten shaft. Generally rule of thumb is when pto shaft on tractor and implement are level with each other that is the shortest point so measure shaft at that point and adjust it to fit. Also on the pto cover the white plastic collars do have a grease fitting which often gets overlooked but needs regular greasing to stop it wearing the plastic. Hope this is helpful to you and anybody else. Merry Christmas to you all from Lincolnshire England.
Many thanks
Pete
I must confess, I made a wrong guess, I thought it would be 1/2 inch on each piece, It kind of surprised me when you said it was an inch off of each piece.. learned something from Tractor Time with Time... Thank you teacher..
Same here. I had to rethink that whole thing 😂 learned something today. Thanks Tim! 🇺🇸👍
@@stacymoreland5541 I think the key for me to make sense of it, is that each end bottoms out at the same time. If you cut one end shorter, the other end will still bottom out at the same length. Whichever is longer determines how small the shaft can get when compressed. When you are determining how long the shaft can get, then each cut adds up. 1" off of each end will make the max length of the shaft 2" shorter.
Afternoon Tim, thank you for the excellent video. I'm just in the process of videotaping a Woodland Mills WC46 chipper build and will have to trim the PTO shaft. I'm just going to include a link to this video. Thanks for your tractor expertise! Stay safe!
Hi Tim, thanks to you and your wife for your dedication to sharing knowledge and providing good hearted advice from both your success and failure. The world needs more people like you all! Also, this video helped me alot. Keep up the good work and looking forward to more fun with TTWT! Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving.
I have seen other explanations of this, and I must admit that I now understand it completely.
Thank you.
SO many helpful hints! Thank you! And I like plan B. Exercise IS overrated in the shop. Plenty of that in the field.
Thanks for this video! I need to shorten the shaft on my new stump grinder . It is about 1 1/2" too long. Even with a quick hitch on.
Easy to cut. I would recommend angle grinder with steel cutoff blade. Learned that after this video.
Great job showing us how to do that. DIdn't think it would be tough, and you confirmed it. My normal dealer generally cuts them for me when I buy new implements, but this time I went to a different dealer and they handed me a pile of parts and said, "have fun" The price of saving a lot of money....
Great video Tim I didn’t know you could cut a PTO shaft I learned something new today thank you 😊
Oh my goodness I wish this video was available 4wks ago when I had to cut the PTO shaft of my new slasher!
I agonized over cutting it all even with instruction from my tractor servicing neighbour.
I could not get that plastic cover off the shaft!
In the end I did a good job, albeit in 2 stages (advice from neighbour) of 100mm the first time followed by 55mm second time. I used a dremel to cut the plastic and a cut off disc on my electric grinder for the steel.
Then I put a good bit of grease on everything including around the O-rings of the plastic covers and discovered I formed an airlock so I couldn't push the parts back together! :D
Then fitting the shaft, I struggled to pull the ends apart just a little to fit onto the splines due to the airtight greased parts! Lol
Anyway, all good now, I've had it apart a few times.
Hey, you are an expert now!!!
Really good video. First part needs better lighting (too dark). Followed Tim's instructions, got my shaft measured, cut, and installed in a half-hour. Thanks.
for cutting the shield you can put a hose clamp around it as a guide, also you can buy a complete pto shaft with shield almost as cheap as buying just a shield and trying to get the exact shield to fit your pto shaft can be hard. Agri supply does have shields. also if you have a compressor an inexpensive die grinder is great for deburring inside and outside of any kind of saw cut.
Well done Tim! Love that you give out so much information.
Perfect!
Thanks for the video. Might be a few years old, but it was a help today. We got a WoodMaxx blower to put on our Kubota LX2610. used loader forks to get the crated beast from the tractor trailer down at the road up to the house and in a heated garage. Got it all set up over a couple of evenings, other than the drive line. Needed to shorten the drive line and had never done one before. On our old BX, the drive line for the tiller, done by our local Kubota dealer, wasn't done well. Shields were trimmed too much. I was just as happy on this one to do it myself and learn how to do it right. Oh, and using a multi-tool to cut the shield made for very short work. Sawzall for the actual shaft. Took our time, got it right. Blower is running nicely. Now have plow blade on the front, blower on the rear. And can easily swap the plow for the bucket as needed.
Glad we could help, Dan. More recently, I have been using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut BOTH the plastic shield and the shaft. I have found this to be my most efficient approach.
We have had to cut MANY shafts given the number of attachments we review.
You crack me up, TIm! After your last video showing Christy riding the loader to balance the load in it. I'm surprised you even worry about having PTO shaft covers. Those never were used until OSHA stepped in with their never-ending list of silly "safe-guards" against mindless idiots! The background for that rule was because a guy had loose shirt-tails when he was working around the shaft, and it got caught up in the shaft coupling and yanked him down against the tractor. It didn't kill him, but gave him some nasty bruises.
My uncle has a JD 1050 and several PTO-driven implements for it. He was setting the depth of tillage on it, using the 3-point lever when he slipped on the muddy ground and hit his arm against the shaft guard on his tiller. Somehow the shaft made his guard spin enough to snap those little no-spin chains and one came up and slapped him in the face. Required 12 stitches! "Safety Guard"??? I don't think so! Almost took out his eye. Of course, it might have seriously bruised his arm, or even given him a terrible rub-burn.
Once installed, how often do you even get close to the shaft until time to remove it? Do we have guards over that little shaft for the mid-PTO drive? No.
Just look at the videos from the 50s and early 60s when PTOs were used widely and you will see NO shaft guards! And there weren't many accidents that a guard would have prevented back then. It only takes one to make it more difficult for the rest of us with OSHA!!! The operator just needs to use common sense and pay attention to what they're doing. If that's too much for them, they should stay in bed. This equipment isn't child's play.
Sorry for being so long-winded!
The PTO drive shaft cover is very important to me. It is indeed easy to get something wrapped around the shaft, and have it pull you into it.
I am NOT anti-safety. Rather, I am very PRO REAL safety rules.
I'm sorry that that happened to your uncle but am glad that he lived to tell the tale. I've read too many stories in our local newspaper over the years of farmers dying a grisly death wrapped around a PTO, I'll stick with the guards and hope that they work should I ever slip like your uncle did.
@@TractorTimewithTim Well said, Tim. That "stick man wrapped around a PTO shaft" is the scariest safety sticker on my tractor.
Tractor supply carries the PTO shields. They're also a great place to get Clevis pins and shear bolts cheap
Thanks for the detailed video. I'm looking for a used tiller and fully expect to need a new shaft as I use a HF quick hitch. I'm ready to cut now.
Tim I had to shorten my shaft when I attached my new tiller to my new Kioti. Then later I decided to put a Harbor Freight quick hitch on. The 3" I originally cut off wouldn't have had to happen. Lucky my shaft didn't have to be replaced.
Great video! Excellent terminology to make it easy to understand. FYI... Replacement driveshaft covers are available at John Deere Dealers.
Easy to follow. Always wondered how the shaft guards came off 🤔now I know. Thanks Tim!
Unfortunately, they don’t al work so easily. Naturally, my PHD was much worse!
There are several different styles of shields and how they release. None are all that difficult to release.
Thanks for the very detailed video. I just received my Woodmaxx TM-86H. Still need to measure it, but if I need to cut it, I feel ready.
The Red locking tab has a hole that allows you to use grease gun and lubricate the ring the plastic lock sits in. Learned that from a State Farm Safety video on PTO covers.
Hi Tim and Christy good video nice to see Christy got her Tarra King you cant have all the fun Tim
Thanks Tim and Christy.
Hey Tim! Great video. Just so you know PTO shields are not universal. If you still have the manual for your tiller, check for the manufacturer. The shaft that you just cut looks like a Bondioli & Pavesi shaft. They are extremely common. But even they make different designs because they have been around for a long time. Best thing to do is check your manual and go from there! If you do not have a manual, bring the shaft with you and speak to a rep that know's a thing or 2 about PTO shafts and hopefully they can get you the right one! Just like your video, you will need to trim it to fit lol
Thanks for the tutorial. Will be doing that this spring with a new tiller.
I guess I understand the whole concept now, but it would have been nice maybe to show how to properly measure that cut. Possible taking the cover off first and then showing where the point A and point B would be to measure from.
In all honesty, if you can't understand how to measure it, after seeing the video. Please, for your own sake, let a professional do it... ;-)
Tim, try the carbide tipped sawzall blade next time, they cut much better than the standard type.
Instructions weren't clear enough, now my foot is caught in the ceiling fan. Keep up the good work and congrats on your new home!
Are you still spinning? Have your wife turn it up to ‘high’ :-)
@@TractorTimewithTim That helped. I'll patch the drywall tomorrow where I bounced off the wall!
Thanks I wasn't sure sure how to do this
Raising the three pt. usually brings the PTO shaft closer to attachment point correct? How do I know if I need to cut? PTO to long to connect? Will be attaching a 4 ft. rural king bush hog to a BX2680 Kubota sub compact tractor. Ok EVERYTHING ATTACHMENT gives a very good tutorial on how to measure implement PTO shaft to tractor PTO to see if it needs cut.
Great video on how to cut that PTO shaft. Wouldn't the JD dealer have the plastic covers?
Great video Tim thanks it will help me out if I ever need to cut a pto shaft 👍🏻👍🏻
Great Infomation Video. The shafts are usally case harden, so you'll be awhile with a hacksaw. Use a file to remove the burrs. If you have to store your equipment outside: before backing up to it, slide the PTO shaft in and out a couple of times. It will save ya from tugging and fussing later.
Ridiculously useful video! Thanks.
Great instruction. Thank you.
Thank you for the video
Thank you for that. Did it once but learned a lot more.
Nice PTO shaft modification video. 👍👍
There commonly is only one way they go together, to make sure the U-joints are aligned correctly, for constant velocity. If U-joint yolks aren't correctly aligned with one another, they will cause speed variations and vibration as the shaft is turned.
Exactly. I came to the comments to inform about it but read through some comments first :-)
It is not intuitive and I wonder if some shafts can be put together more than one way.
And the speed difference during one revolution depends on the angle of the joint. If they are the same it will counter each other out perfectly but if one like me have a hay baler with one long shaft (instead of two shorter, like some models have) it's advisable to have a long drawbar to get the connection point of tractor and baler to not be so close to the tractor.
I found a good video explaining the problem. It's the end of it about phasing that is guaranteed when the cross-section of the shaft isn't squares.
ua-cam.com/video/gmV4qwLfOMY/v-deo.html
Thank you!
I had the urge to exercise once, I laid down until it went away.
A friend confessed that once he quit smoking! And that was the worst 5 minutes of his life! LOL 😂
Use a round file for the interior burs ans a flat file for the exterior burs. This will make deburring a lot easier. Just a thought…
I have seen them at Tractor Supply and Atwood’s in my area (South Central Ks.)
how do you adjust the PTO slip clutch had to take it apart to clean the clutches heard so many wats but one said tighten the nuts until the nut just touches the spring then turn 1 and a half turns do that to all 8 another said tighten the nut until you collapse the springs then back it off 2 turns whats the right way the manual doesn"t give anything good thing i pulled it apart it was frozen stuck if i hit something hard it would have not slipped and done damage to gear box or tractor what is the right adjustment please get back to me about the right adjustment THANKS
Use a step drill bit to clean the burrs from the inside of the shafts. Works like a reamer when cutting pipe.
Mystery solved !!! Very informative video.
Hey Tim. Might be a good idea to talk about aligning the knuckles. A U joint has to be aligned properly, I know you said that one only inserted one direction, but some of the square ones have one correct way and three incorrect.
Tim Christi thanks now we have a better idea of how it is done
God Bless
PaK
Use a round metal file on the burrs inside the shaft. Metal shop in high school
Agreed
Agreed
I would have used the reamer point on a tubing cutter, if big enough. Or the deburring tool I got from Ken's Bolt-on Hooks.
Yes, a half round mill bastard file.
My grandpa had a brush hog on the 520 that the shaft was a little long and it took the race housing out the pto on the tractor. My dad got it welded up and it helped but i had to fix the clutch cause that went out on me. I bought a good used pto clutch assembly. Had my friend assess if the used clutch was good enough. The 520 shaft goes into the tractor about 6 inches is all and gears over to the side to the clutch then the clutch coupler shaft goes thru into the rear end. Eventually i plan on rebuilding my original cluch assembly cause that looks like a pain but the swap is easy
Good cutting there Tim thanks for video's
Thanks Benjamin!
Go to the store you got your tiller from and they should be able to get a replacement cover for the PTO shaft. If you bought it online take the PTO shaft to your local tractor supply or sales place and they will get the correct one. A large retail center might even have one on the shelf for you............
Where did you get that specific shaft? It looks just like one I could use the inner half of. Mine was on a Mahindra 5' SD rotary cutter.
Nice video Tim. If you find a source for the PTO Shield please share. I like the cover you demonstrated in video and I would like to get one as well to replace on one of my shafts.
Really Tim,
Yeah it's a good idea to leave your cover on but if one tears up don't think it's necessary to replace
Great video
I enjoyed watching
I'm no Safety Nancy, but be aware of what that cover does and act accordingly if it's missing. Keep in mind it's not just you getting wrapped around it that can disfigure or kill you. Something else, like a tree vine, chain, wire fencing or cable could cause some nasty welts after you innocently back a rough cut into some brush.
Thanks!!!!!!
Tim. I don't know how to contact you, Sooooo. I just received my own 2018 Johnny. We, me and my finance committee, bought it based on watching so many of your videos. I have pictures if you care to see them. Thank you all for making such great and informative videos.
try the TTWT facebook page. A good place to publicly post photos of your new baby :-) . Congratulations!
A little off topic, do you carry insurance for your "side jobs"? Maybe you could make a video about the business end of things? Thanks
Yes, we have insurance. I do.not feel comfortable discussing it..as I am not confident in our insurance knowledge
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks for the reply, that answers my question enough, you never know what might happen on the job. Stay safe
VERY INFORMATIVE DYI VIDEO Tim... Profs to you...!
Dear Tim I watched your video on UA-cam about your barn in the rat that you're experiencing you could dig down next to all of the post and sister a new 4 by 4 or 4 by 6 beside it drill through it and put some leg bolts or carriage bolts through it or you can put your rat guard on the bottom of your post on the good post next to the bad post and you could do one at a time that would be a very inexpensive way of fixing it and you would only need to go up about 8 feet at the most
I've had no luck finding replacement driveshaft covers up here in Canada you basically have to buy the shaft with the cover.. my shaft on my salter unit was seized together could not get a part so I had to cut the plastic guard off and heat the slip joint with the torch, currently running unit without the safety cover don't tell anyone LOL. Thanks for sharing
When faced with similar situation of rust seized parts. Submerge the assembly on a vinegar bath. Come back a couple days later. Clean and wash it under running water. Lubricate as needed and enjoy a fully functioning part. Cheers
Perfect
I forgot, good video and information!
So the bottom line for measuring is, find the shortest distance which is likely implement all the way up or down depending, and than keep the shaft as long as you can until it clears the spline on the tractor? That makes sense and it easier for me if that is the case. Thanks for the video!
Yes!
Thank you.
hi guy`s well done tim
Nice work tim
you can get pto covers at tsc pretty cheap like $50 or so if i remember right
Someone has probably addressed this in the comments already buy if you hold the sawzall all the way forward against the flat plate at the base of the blade it will not vibrate or jump around in your hand as you cut.
Nice 👍 job TTWT
Good video tim👍now everyone can do it
I'm pretty sure I've seen safety cover kits/compinents at Rural King.
You can purchase PTO shafts guards from Cornwall Farm Machinery, Penzance Cornwall UK 😉🚜🚣♂️
The shield is about the same price of a shaft. I priced one for my rotary mower. $130 FOR THE SHIELD. I didn't get a shield. Look on Amazon but no promises.
That didn't look too "scary", so now I feel like it can be done as necessary by.... me :) Thanks. As always, thanks for great videos. I should be getting my "Johnny" in two days :)
Tim. What type of insurance do you need to carry to cover you. Not far from you, in Indiana USA
I see the covers everywhere. B-F&F, BigR, Rural King, TSC, etc.
So eventually if you upgrade ,your tractor and sell Johnny.You will have to buy all new drive shafts ???
At least you attempted the hack saw. I have no intention of even trying. I'm going straight to the reciprocating saw, rofl
Actually, with more experience, I have found an angle grinder with cutoff wheel works the best!
I’ve done this many times now!
@@TractorTimewithTim hey... that's a great idea. And I have one of those
Holly cow you are very well organized but I see why you found a pole shop. Lol
I think you can get the covers at Tractor supply company
Lol!! “the greasy kind” 😂🤣
Use sand paper to clean burrs on the plastic
Attempt to exercise that counts also. And finance comity don't allow for good up here. measure it twice cut once covers are at tractor supply store
Use WD40 on your blades while cutting. It keeps the blade lubricated and cool, keeping the blade sharp longer. Cuts so much faster.
Hey Tim, is it safe to say that you need a different PTO shaft for each implement you own? I guess I never realized that before.
Each implement has its own shaft, yes.
and does each shaft have to be cut ?@@TractorTimewithTim
Only if it is too long to connect to the Tractor as I showed in this video.
Tim, I have a really stupid question. How do you connect the PTO shafts to the 1025r? I thought they just slip on over the PTO shaft sticking out of the Tractor itself.
I meant , in general ,. does each attachment that requires a PTO shaft require a different length shaft , or do most implements made for John Deere 1025's use the same length ?? I have a 1025 in my future along with a few attachments , will one shat fit , or does each attachment need it's own shaft ? @@TractorTimewithTim
Tim, no one responds as well as you. please check my math: (1) distance between the collar on my Flail Mower shaft connection and the front of the PTO shaft on the tractor = 29 3/4". (2) gap needed 2". (3) Starting length of the brand new Flail PTO shaft, end-to-end = 33 1/4". Cutting the the chase, I think I need to cut off 5 1/2" on both ends?? Please help!! BTY I really learned a lot watching u show the boss how to used the back-hoe. especially when you told us how much more power you have when you "curl" than lift.
That sounds right, Larry.
If not, use my dad’s adage. “Cut it off 3 times...still too short!!”
@@TractorTimewithTim My Dads favorite DIY comment: "good enough for who it's for."
good job
Is there more then one way that the pto shaft for a john deere bush hog can go together.
No, typically not.
tractor supply has the shields
Did I miss a video on putting that collection unit together? Went back & saw where you where using it....
I don't think so. We're still waiting for the video showing the assembly, mounting, dismounting, parking and details on the remote control.
@@eosjoe565 I went back & listened to Tim's last couple of remarks a few times & is what made me think he had done it.
This video is still ‘in process’. We decided to publish this one separately, as it is useful for many attachments.
Tim you are so funny
good to know
Try agrisupply.com.
You can get individual parts and pieces for PTO shaft covers.
Tim how do I connect the shaft to the pto, it will not go on all the way. I get it lined up and starts to slid on but then there is resistance, I cannot force it on by hand and do not want to use a persuader (hammer), till I know there is not an easier way, I look on the pto of tractor and it has indentations half way , I look in the shaft ant it has ball bearings, how do I release the ball bearings to get it to slide on? Being a novice is not always fun especially when you get the answer and it is so simple you wonder why you did not think of it yourself. Hay Tim. H E L P!
There is a large ring around the ‘ball bearings’.pull that ring back, this will release the ball bearings so that they can slide over the shaft. Then, those ball bearings will ‘lock’ into the indentions you mention on the tractor shaft.
You need an old coffee can with grease and paint brush! Brush the grease on and save the paper towel smear mess! Less messy on the hands lol!
Careful of the metal slivers that fell in the open drawer under your vice. I always forget to close the drawers and end up with sawdust, metal shavings and other trash in my drawers too.
Hey, I’m moving!
Hey tool time with Tim gotta get you a couple of files a flat a half round and a rat tail save your emery cloth for your plumbing jobs and a wire brush while your at it. That would cut down the chance of a metal sliver or jabbing your finger, but you old farmers are used to fixing anything with next to nothing...Hahahaha
I have both.
You the man, Tim!