CURVED JOIST HACK / SIMPLE TRICK TO SAVE TIME
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- There's got to be a better way! This week I'm installing the joists on my 1956 Cal Craft rebuild and I found a simple hack that ended up saving me a lot of time. Don't you just love when you have an idea for how to solve a problem and it ACTUALLY WORKS? I do!
Such a cute baby boy😊 growing up fast..your future camper builder.
Ha ha, thanks! If you ask him what he wants to do when he grows up, he says, "Maybe build campers."
Thank you so much for your videos; it is just short of a miracle for me to have found such detailed information. As silly as it may sound, I will sleep a lot better now.
Hey, glad to be of help! Thanks for watching!
I wish I had seen your videos before I started on my Play-Mor. I followed Mobiltec exclusively because he’s very thorough. But he doesn’t rebuild he restored them. Mine was in an awful
Shape when I got it. I’m 76 now, got it about five years ago. My husband already had a diagnosis of metastatic prostate cancer so he sat in a lawn chair and did what he could. I had to depend on tarps. Didnt have a dry space to keep it in. I had to buy new skin from Hemet Valley. In California. I live in Alabama. To make a long miserable tale short. After we worked on it. I did most of it. Still hadn’t finished it. He got sicker and I just dropped it to take care of him. He passed away two year ago this coming Thanksgiving. I didn’t care about anything for most of this time. My neighbor is single girl in her 50s. She wanted to buy it. I agreed on the price she could afford and she pulled home. About 200 yards. I gave her everything she need to finish it except new tires and that’s only two. I’m glad someone will be able to finish it and get some enjoyment out of it. I sent her three links to your videos. About your nightmare title business. Alabama doesn’t have those wacko rules. Anything that has wheels and is over 20 years does not need a title. I took my bill of sale to DMV and got a tag no problem. Heck it’s almost 50 years old.Oh no it’s over 50 years old now. Enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for watching, and sorry to hear about your husband. Mobiletec is probably the single most valuable resource for most camper rebuilders, and I know I've learned a lot from him. I wouldn't ever call anything I've done a restoration, but I've never really worked on anything with any value, so I've always just made it my own, and rebuilt it how I wanted. Thanks for watching and sharing!
One of my students just turned me on to your channel. Looks like you are doing everything properly! Love it.
Ha ha! I was literally just today telling a friend that has a camper project that he ought to check out some of your videos! Thank you so much, and thank you for all of your knowledge and videos!
And I will definitely do some things improperly, just give me some time.
Great job, Lots of great tips. I have copied a lot of the ways you are doing these campers. I am working on a 60 Wilderness Coach frame up reconstruction.
I ran into an interesting goof from the previous rebuild of this camper and they cut the wheel wells 3.5 inches further forward on one side compared to the other! I did not figure it out until I put the skin back on and found the problem. Started looking at pictures and saw the difference from one side to the other. When I took the picture of how it was when I bought it, I thought it was just the way it was sitting on the trailer since it was in such bad shape.
😪😪 So now reskinning the curb side and possibly more.
Our '61 Aljo photo booth camper has the same issue, and I've still got to figure out how to correct it. I thought about leaving it that way, but it kinda annoys me. I think I know what I'm going to do, so that'll be in a future video.
Your craftsmanship is incredible. Thank you! I always look forward to seeing your videos.
Thanks, I actually feel like I've really learned a lot about craftmanship building these campers!
2x2 between two chairs left overnight will create a slight bow. Bow side down will give enough pressure to glue up the spars.
Yeah, I had actually thought of making my own cauls for this project, but ultimately I really didn't need them. I could've also just asked for some help from a second person, lol!
What if you used angle iron as long as the joists and clamped it with the existing clamps , it would act as a splint while you secure it , could even be aluminum or cut a length from an old bed rail , just an idea....
I had considered something like that, but what I really should've done is to plan out and attach all my joists to the panels before installing the panel/joist combos as a unit on the camper.
I wanted to know where you got your roofing plywood. Love your hard work and restorations skills.
Thanks! Look for 2.7mm utility panel at Home Depot. It's not the most pretty if you're planning on leaving the grain showing, but it works well and it's inexpensive.
Great progress also loved the music you picked to follow with the action, especially at the 4:27 mark!
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it, I'll make sure and let Katherine know!
Great job! Really good progress this week!
Thanks, it's nice to get a chance to really get some work done!
It's looking good.
Thanks! I really feel like I did a lot in this week's video!
I am working on a 1966 Oasis. Last summer I replaced rotten boards on the top. Two weeks ago I stapled up double sided foil bubble wrap. A week later I went out to get some measurements and found that one area had water pooled up in it. I removed that section so it could dry out. What can I do to keep this from happening. I live in cold country, the trailer sits outside and isn't sealed up. Thanks for your videos.
If you haven't got a covered area to work on it underneath, you ought to at least throw a large tarp over it and tie it down. You want to put something on top of the camper under the tarp to tent it up so water drains off quickly. Some people use a large bucket, but whatever it is you want to make sure it doesn't have any sharp edges that'll rip the tarp.
I was thinking about that and now that you mentioned it I will get it done and I like the idea of the bucket on top. Thanks for the encouragement. @@TrailerTrashtoTreasure
You're welcome!
GREAT VIDEO!!! THANKS!!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
How did you bend that 3/4 end plywood did you layer thin sheets I feel like we missed the best part.
It's made of layers of 1/8" plywood. You can see the procedure here:
ua-cam.com/video/azapKoD8gQA/v-deo.html
Did you double check the window position by holding up the skin??? I’m just worried about my measurements being wrong 😩
No, I didn't because I'm using new skin for this one, but yeah if I was reusing the original skins I would've tried to clamp the bottom sections to the camper nice and tightly to make sure I was getting things in the right place. You can always adjust the size of the opening a bit by removing or adding wood and letting the interior trim cover the error, but it's naturally best to be accurate to start with!
That's a funny looking skateboard ramp.
Well I never learned how to skateboard, so it's not like I know what I'm doing.
What type of wood are you using for the joists?
I've always used either fir or yellow pine. I think it's a good idea to purchase the "premium" grade of framing studs when you go to the lumber yard as they tend to be straighter and have fewer knot holes, but it's always good practice to look over what you're buying and choose the best ones in the bunch.
And to add one thing. Once you rip the studs down, make sure you’re ready to install them because modern lumber will start to twist even a a whole 2x4. Rip them down and OMG, usually unusable from twisting end to end.
@@jerrytalley802 douglas fir 2x4 is more stable than pine and tends to twist less. I also recently learned how important moisture content is. Even KDHT at the store can be as high as 19%, so if you dry it out even more, down to say 7% the chance of twisting drops dramatically. I noticed a lot less twist in my projects.
I find you tend to get less warpage ripping down larger stock, 2x6, 2x8, etc. and the grain is often straighter, but a lot of variation can come just from what the grain orientation is when the timber was milled from the tree. Drying it can help tremendously, but it can take a lot of extra time, and if you're working outside or your shop isn't climate controlled it'll always be a bit of a moving target.