Lining with Waterslide Transfers [HOW TO] - Model Railway Mania
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- One of the questions I often get asked is 'how do you do the lining on your locomotives?'
In the spirit of 'show, don't tell', I've made this guide using a Hornby Stanier 8F tender and lining from Fox Transfers.
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At a later stage I'll show how I use generic lining packs to make up more complex loco shapes, and how to seal it all in.
The disclaimer here is that I am not a professional modeller, there may be better ways of doing it, but I like this method and I am pleased with the results, most importantly, anyone can do this using basic tools.
If you have any questions, please leave a comment!
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Thanks, a very practical video.
I model O gauge and you are correct, long straight lines are not easy to get right.
Hi love the method, I never thought it could be bone like this . thank you very much 😀😀😀
Thank you for a quality video. Looking forward to the generic pack video and any other videos of "practical bashing" you may wish to share. This is developing into an excellent channel.
Allan White thank you Allan! Your comment brought a big smile to my face.
Thank you for this video been restoring my first train from when I was a kid but couldn't find a video for help going to try to put traffic line on now thank alot again
This is very interesting, especially how the corner linings can be manipulated to slightly different radii.
Not always intentionally! ;)
Thank you well done that is very useful I may try myself 😊
Hope it's useful mate
This looks like BR express blue (a nice blue with white/black/white stripes like yours quite a lovely livery
Thank you so much! I've got a tiny bit of experience with water-slide decals (numbering mainly), but I've been worried about trying lining. This video certainly helped.
The production quality was really good too. An easy to understand voice and music that isn't distracting or annoying is rare, in my experience. Stay safe
That looks really good thanks for showing how to do that
Thank you!
great i'll try to remeber that when i make so withered locos
Interesting method. One 'how to' I would like to see is how you apply 'Narrow Planet' nameplates and numbers.
Thank you! I'll try and remember to film it next time I put some on :)
I'm trying to apply Fox's transfers to a streamline Coronation locomotive, and have so far managed to destroy the entire striping part of the set around the nose area. After watching this, I might try cutting the nose stripes into small individuals for my next time around like you did with those tender stripes. The American Microscale decals I'm used to applying seem to be more forgiving, so coming from those, I guess I wasn't quite ready for how fragile these Fox transfers are.
What I have found is that waterslide transfers can vary in durability a lot, I'm not sure if it's age or sun exposure or just down to print quality, but I have had the same sheet number from the same manufacturers turn out very differently sometimes. A while ago I tried to line the entire side of a BR(W) Prairie tank in one go and it was stressful as the lining kept twisting or dragging itself out of line, so that's when I started doing it by chopping them up. With the coronation I would certainly only do one side at a time, and cut it just as it straightens out. You might be able to do all 4 lines, just a short section, and then do the straight pieces as one?
@@RailwayManiaNet Using some of the advice you've given (thanks!), things have been going well with the replacement set so far, but I ran into one more small issue. To get the transfers to conform to some details around the model, I'm applying a setting solution (Walthers Solvaset) after they've dried out as I've always done with my other models, but the transfers have developed some small wrinkles here and there. Have you ever gotten wrinkles in these before? And if so, were you able to get them out?
@@DarthSantaFe Ugh yes wrinkled transfers are hellish! I've had issues with this before, from what I have heard it can sometimes be caused by moisture trapped underneath the transfer. What I have been experimenting with recently is using a slightly thicker brush to absorb water once the transfer is in place, and using some stuff called micro-set alongside the micro-sol to help it adhere to the surface. Some of my wrinkling would occur when I sprayed the lacquer coat, so I am trying to leave at least a few days for the model to dry out before applying the lacquer. Sometimes it's a case of removing and trying again :( please do persevere though! The results will hopefully be worth it :)
@@RailwayManiaNet Thank for the tips! Let's see if that all works. :)
You are supposed to apply MICROSET to the model surface. MICROSOL goes on top of the transfer to soften it to contor to the surface.
would micro sol be a kind of glue?
No its this stuff - a decal softener
www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/microscale-micro-sol/
ok, ty.
and i apologize if i come off as annoying, but would it be wise to use waterslides on a painted model(for this example, citadel acrylic paint)?
giving waterslides a shot for the first time and just want to be sure.
No worries, with the paint it depends upon if the surface is a gloss or matte finish. I would advise applying decals to a gloss finish, so it might be worth lacquering it if it's matte. You can apply matte lacquer or varnish after the decals have dried if that's what you would like.
@@RailwayManiaNet
It looks to be a matte finish.
Any tips on a brand of varnish or lacquer to pick up if need be?
@@Mike-dw8wf Hard to say, I think it's worth checking if the paint is meant to be used with a certain type as sometimes the wrong combos can react. Sorry it's not very helpful! The manufacturers might have a recommended one.
Great information spoilt by background music
Great comment
Obviously not soothing music for the video!
Don't want you falling asleep listening to my nasal voice now do I?