Growing Vegetable Crops by Non Circulating Hydroponic Methods by B A Kratky
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- Опубліковано 4 тра 2017
- "Growing Vegetable Crops by Non-Circulating Hydroponic Methods" is a talk given by Dr. B.A. Kratky at The American Society for Plasticulture Workshop Advances in Plasticulture Technology Around the World given at The American Society for Horticultural Science Annual Conference held on September 25, 2011 at Waikoloa, Hawaii.
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You, Mr. Kratky, have made a tremendous contribution to the world. Humanity owes you a thank you. So here is mine.
I've grown carrots, radishes, potatoes, cilantro, basil, lettuce, broccolli, and kale using these methods. It's awesome!
What's really awesome are the videos which you made of these crops and projects!
Some idiot on the internet is saying you can only do greens this way.
Can you help me to have links of fertilizers so i can buy some thanks
Yass...
@@jaskeda www.powergrowsystems.com/products/masterblend-4-18-38-fertilizer-master-kit-bulk?variant=40214393166
This is one of the most important inventions in agriculture for many, many years. And really critical for the hard times ahead.
Your very cheerful guess you not live in africa.
Because of you - I have a living refrigerator in a corner in my kitchen. 15 different lettuces, 10 different herbs, plus plus….on a bakers rack with led’s. I’ve already recovered my costs in savings on spring mix containers!!
What a privilege to be alive at the same time as you and this great community created around this method
Dr. Krakty, thank you for allowing me to share your knowledge of non-circulating hydroponics with so many people. I am happy to see this video now among your collection of UA-cam videos, where it belongs. I am happy to have helped save this moment in history.
Thank you so much, Matt. The American Society for Horticultural Science only posted the video for about a year and it probably would have been lost if you had not posted it on your site. I should have started a youtube channel earlier, but kept procrastinating. I also appreciate that you answered the questions from the viewers so capably. Aloha, Bernie Kratky
I love this! As a commercial truck driver I am not able to water or weed on any kind of regular schedule. Your wonderful system makes it possible for me to still grow my veggies. I learned about your work from Mike Van Duzee on his UA-cam channel, Keep on Growing. My eternal gratitude to both of you! 🙇
Thank you and Good luck!
You make an excellent point. I am gonna remember you when I talk to a friend of mine who travels for work.
I enjoy absorbing the information you provide.
simplicity at its best!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your work. You have made it possible for simple folks to grow great abundance.
Thank you for your natural genius, love your method of hydroponics.
Great video. I like how you showcased so many different variations. Very informative
This is tremendous work. Today, we need to be empowered to be able to produce our own food simply, and ideally reusing waste materials. I'm starting to work with this in the UK in my diy unheated growing tunnel and will make some videos with results. Last year I tried tomatoes outdoors (tricky in the UK) but learned that a rain cover is essential to avoid flooding the container. Using a float system for heavier feeding crops is fascinating. Thank you for this valuable information given freely.
thanks so much for sharing this info with the world sir. you are a legend
Very grateful a friend turned me on to your vid. I have a 9 year old who is at the stage where all this seems like literal magic, and I am doing my best to stuff his head with things while he still listens.
We are growing indoors this winter and I like this way better than regular Hydro or soil, less heavy and a ruptured 4 litre bottle is less of an emergency than a busted 70 litre rubbermaid tote.
I think the bottles will be a more effective use of space for us anyway.
Hello, Dr! I recently came across your non-circulating hydroponic technique and it is absolutely genius! Thanks so much for sharing with us.
thank you so much, Dr Kratky.Just started my first ever Kratky hydroponics from the roots of spinach bought from a store, 100% success rate so far and it's not in season for it.Also, like to thank MrDuzee1and Matt Garver for all the help and advise in using your method.God bless you. best regards Adam
Thank you Mr Kratky. I am now capable of growing my own food using your method. Thank you for your kind diy approach which makes it affordable, easy and non back breaking. Might I also add that I had a few giggles thanks to your presentation. Kind regards and gratitude. Kim from DROUGHT STRICKEN AUSTRALIA
Great presentation! Thank you so much for sharing :)
I just discovered this method today and I'm so excited to start.
Thank you so much for sharing! :D
Thank you, Professor Kratky. This method is excellent for RNA transcriptomics experiments as the liquid medium reduces the variability during the experimental procedure.
Kracky is a genius in off grid growing technology. Personally I find growing in wicking pots better as it gives roots to the soil and you can still feed the plants via the kratky method. I'm experimenting with a lot of that on my channel and I have to thank Dr Kratky for the amazing inspiration!
What do you use for your wicking pots? An actual wick?
It is great to finally find you online, Dr. Kratky. I learned about your research 5 years ago and have been really experimenting with it the last 3 years. It is amazing that I can grow some of my own food without having to worry about soil conditions. I love growing pok choy and lettuces year round. Thank you so much for sharing your insight.
It is also great that I now have someplace to refer people to now when I tell them about your system!!
My hope is that everyone should grow some of their own food. Congratulations!
Hi Mike! I am so excited and trying to fill my head with everything
on Kratky I can find. So many ways to do this. Incredible! Guess
it's never to late...
Who knew that plastic might actually be good? You get my vote! Sir, we can feed the world now.
Thank you so much for sharing
Thanks alot for sharing your technique
Thank you this is a big help
I'm def gonna try it this garden season💯🌻
Dr. Kratky..... I've been "toying" with hydro-systems for a short-while.....but have never seen any of them live up to the "hype" given....
In addition....they ALL are subject to near-complete Failure during a grid-down scenario.
These methods Truly encompass the KISS principles, yet have Amazing results !
Thank you, your students and staff for your dedication and tremendous work !
We are going to begin tailoring your work for the southern Oregon coast !!!
Mahalo !!!
Thank you! We enjoyed driving along the Oregon coast several years ago. That should be a good place to grow some hydroponic crops.
As an elementary teacher, I've already started using this with mason jars in the classroom, and I started a 28 quart bucket at home. that has six 2 inch holes. right now I'm at the seedling stage but very excited to watch the results. Thanks so much!
...so long as leader root touches the water they will be fine water roots will grow as water is used up...good class project congrats...
What type of fertiliser do you use? How do you know how much to use and how much water do you need as well as how deep the container? I'd like to grow arugula
@@linasan443 My container was about 6-7 inches deep. It just needs to be deep enough to hold enough water to last the life cycle of the plant.
I used a fertilizer (Maxigro 10-5-14) that is designed to mix with water. The package will instruct you as to how much to the proportion, but I think it was about 1 teaspoon per gallon. There are many helpful videos that will guide you through the whole process. Good luck!
very nice and informative.
very simple and very effective !!! wowowowoow
At least we should say to you: Thank you
Drinking game to get absolutely smashed, take a shot of beer every time Dr, Kratky clears his throat.
hi! greetings from Norway. i love the kratky method! using some cheap led grow lights i found on ebay over my containers in my basement gives me and my family enough lettuce. just pluck as we need it. loving it. i started doing this because lettuce became suddenly really expensive here... costs almost 5$ for a tiny bag of lettuce here xD the best thing is it never goes bad because we only pluck what we need and it grows back out :D
That's great to hear. I visited your beautiful country several years ago and thoroughly enjoyed it!
Thank you Dr. Kratky for your method of growing hydroponic crops. In the beginning everything I was growing with this method was going well, but virtually all my herbs are on death's door due to root rot and also possible nutrient burn. I cut the roots and am now trying to get them to re-root with the cuttings.
I also came here due to Jeb's mentioning you in one of his videos ( I think he said you started a channel) so I wanted to come over and pay my respects. If I could get this method to work, it would be much better than planting outside. I don't have to deal with critters trying to eat my crops. Oh, I forgot to mention I got some kind of insects attacking my plants too now. Using neem oil and it seems to help after I tried insecticidal soap with little effect.
With growing seedlings, does it matter if I grow the seeds in seedling mix (I think it's essentially peat moss)? I wash the seedling roots off as best I can and then put them in Growstones, where they thrive for a while and then die from root rot. Do you think the nutrients might not be absorbed quickly enough and that's why the root rot is occurring? Thanks! :)
Try planting seeds directly in net pots filled with seedling mix and place the resultant seedling with the net pot and medium into the lid of the hydroponic setup. Don't wash off or interfere with the roots. For lettuce, the Growstones aren't needed. If you are having nutrient problems, check the pH as it can change later in the crop depending upon the fertilizer and the water. Good luck!
Thank you sir! I was initially going to try putting the seedlings into the net pot intact with the seedling mix but I read somewhere that peat in the mix would affect the PH. Should I put Growstones at the bottom of the net pot before I move them or should I just forget about the Growstones and place the seedling with the mix by itself?
Last night I lost two more of my good sized basil plants to root rot. I washed the roots off and pulled off any roots that were too far gone and then soaked to the root ball with h2o2 for 2 hours. Then emptied the reservoir and put just clean water in it and a little h2o2. No Growstones added. Just leaning them on the side of the net pot with the water & h2o2 just barely touching the bottom roots. That way I can keep an eye on them to see how the roots are doing.
Also my papaya seedling wilted really bad yesterday. I saw the start of root rot on it yesterday and did an h2o2 soak on that as well. Most of the leaves are dead today but a couple seem to be recovering. Going to keep it out of direct sunlight and run the AC to keep the ambient temps in the 70's. It's sad seeing my plants die. :(
For the suspended pot method, all that is needed in the net pots is a commercial seedling medium or even a growing medium such as Sunshine Mix or Pro-Mix - the Grostones aren't needed. Don't use straight peat. I don't have any experience with Grostones.
If your local area has a Master Gardener Program, it might be worth your while to discuss some of your plant disease issues with those good folks.
I got this stuff: www.homedepot.com/p/Jiffy-12-Qt-Organic-Seed-Starting-Mix-G312/204405556
Jiffy 12 Qt. Organic Seed Starting Mix. From what I could find online it's made of 50% peat and 40% vermiculite.
I looked online and there's a bunch of different types of Sunshine mixes and Pro-Mix. Do you have a particular recommendation? I Googled commercial seedling medium but couldn't find any thing specific. I did find a good chart at the home depot that breaks down soil mediums by content here:
www.homedepot.com/c/potting_soil_HT_BG_OD
Is there a specific blend you'd recommend? Thanks! :)
I like a mix with peat and perlite or peat and vermiculite or peat-perlite-vermiculite and perhaps, some coir. I recall using Pro-Mix BX and Sunshine 4 mix. If your Jiffy Mix is peat and vermiculite, then it should be ok.
Hi Dr. Kratky, thanks again for the great video you made! I am too growing a variety of hydroponic vegetables at home. I am wondering if you can elaborate more on the "pot-in-pot-in-pot" method to grow potatoes, perhaps making another video? I find the space in a net cup limits their growth and the cups are always broken due to the growth. If it works for potatoes, I think it will work for carrots and radishes.
Here is a pot-in pot-in pot study on ginger.
www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/hawaii/downloads/Outdoor_growing_of_clean_Edible_ginger_seed_by_a_Pot-in-Pot-in-Pot_Sub-irrigation_method.pdf
I hope to make a youtube video on a pot-in pot study on tomatoes fairly soon where there is a float valve in one pot so it will not be necessary to have a pot-in pot-in pot arrangement.
I really want this as I have lots of hydroponic problems here in Poland
Amazing sir
Very interesting
Very good vid
just thinking how much cleaner this is for the environment as you dont have loads of fertilizer washing off into the ecosystem, pest & weed management would be easier too and also not introduce additional chems into the waterways
I would LOVE to see you talk about RAFTS, and pontoon rafts, that float on the current water level, to make things more passive, without need for some kind of auto-leveling water valve or daily watering. Pontoons will allow a constant air gap, and won't allow the roots to dry out, but PH and PPM will constantly be an issue that must be understood clearly over time as the plants grow. Of course, as the plants get heavy, near harvest time, it will be necessary to suspend them by other means and support mature plants as they can be very heavy and need daily watering and feeding until plants are ready and can be flushed with water and no nutrients.
PH and PPM are a consideration depending on where you live. Keep in mind you want PH to remain under 7.0 and PPM to remain under 800 ppm, or you can get into leaf burn and other problems, but if you live in Hawaii, you may never have to worry about these issues ;-)
I would also mention lately pen sensors to measure PPM and PH are much more affordable and inexpensive to help your farming goals.
Rafts and pontoon rafts are good concepts especially in large growing tanks as they can eliminate the need for aisles, but we just didn't do much work with these. I hope someone picks up on your suggestion and performs some detailed studies on this.
What crops, other than lettuce is favorable for this type of growing method? What other crops would be recommended?
Aloha! Thank you for sharing this method. Greetings from So. Cal., where space to grow is very limited. If I wanted to grow a patch of herbs such as mint, thyme, oregano, basil, and wasn't worried about maintaining them as individual plants, could planter pots with drainage grids and saucers be used? Could Keurig K plastic (coffee) cups with bottoms somehow cut be up-cycled&used instead of net pots?
.... have seen yogurt cups cut like netty pots...also Solow cups melts with a hot poker too..netty cups are just handy...so your k-cups idea sounds great...
Can i use an oragic fertilizee as a water nutrient solution?
Hi. Awesome video! I am a beginner and want to try this out. I built a huge box using wood and cover it with a water proof sheet. I just want to ask where and how to get the nutrient solution that I will put in. Its around 1000L of water that i can place there. Thanks so much. Hoping I can replicate this method successfully.
Bravo! The one addition I would add, is the fact, if you float netcups in a tray of nutrient solution, and have pontoon's to regulate the space between water level, and lower roots. Perhaps 2cm? 1/2" to 1"? Starting with an established rootball, and transplanting to a large tray after germination or cuttings, this way water level is never an issue. Other youtubers' mention they failed if they did not monitor water level, unless it floats, and everyone seems to forget pontoons!
...like the idea of supporting the foam sheet with plastic pots too...air space is important too...
@@willgaukler8979 Pots will allow operating with a floating cover, and no air pump needed; I love going fully passive with no pumps..
What I have seen that makes me happy are: 1) cloning donuts made of inert material, completely recyclable, re-usable 2) reservoirs holds water supply but costs almost nothing to make, no water storage needed 3) no air pumps, no water pumps, completely passive 4) no rock wool used, ALL reuse-able materials used 5) No electricity required
CONS: 1) Hawaii is not your average growing environs 2) no mention of feeding, or PH requirements, no PPM issues considered? 3) Heating water or considering feeding, or PH may need to be required if using TAP water in your area.
@@willgaukler8979 I find now, there are 10x20 inch plastic tray covers that hold netpots and do not require cutting styrin and work on top of any standard tray, but cork pontoons can be added, thus making a floating RAFT that just works with Kratky method assuming PH and PPM are within usable range.
Jeff Papineau ...Jeff...have you seen them use those pool noodles cut thinly to hold stems...yet allow them to grow...thanks...
What fertilizer can i use if i have no access to pre made hydroponic solution
do you have to replenish the nutrients every week using this system
Have those veggies have the same nutrients as those grown in soils?
Has any research been done on not using fertilizers?
Thanks so much for this great knowledge... A couple of quick questions please..
-About the floating extruded polystyrene cover, will it not start going down as water level drops? Will this not eliminate the moist air space that is needed so that roots get oxygen?
what am I missing ?
- Why the roots which are always at the bottom of the bucket wont rot ? whats the science behind it?
- thanks so much....I will surely google more to get more knowledge on this fantastic method.
Yes, you are correct that the floating cover drops as the solution level drops, but this technique only works well for a limited number of crops such as watercress. It would not work for tomatoes. I don't have a good short answer for your second question.
For second question, please do point me to botanical literature. My googling has failed. Thanks. ( Science background , highly interested )
thanks so much.
@@DaSnipy I could be wrong, but my guess is that Casparian strips in the roots and root pressure allow submerged roots to remain healthy as long as roots are alive and undergoing respiration.
I believe that I might have a very uneducated guess of an answer for your question #2... I believe that the root systems are adapted to the full water culture environment. What I have learned through growing orchids in a “Semi-Hydro” method is that when transplanting a fully established plant from an organic medium to an inorganic medium there is a period of transplant adaptation where the plant sheds it’s old root system and then grows an entirely new root system that will now be adapted to be able to absorb water and nutrients from it’s new environment. It is my understanding that this is true with most plants-not just orchids; so back to my “uneducated guess” I am guessing that the roots will not rot because they are fully adapted to the full water culture environment??? I’m sure this is an overly simplified answer to your question...but I wondered and learned about this when deciding between trying my orchids in full water culture or the semi-hydro method if you’d like a more educated explanation regarding semi-hydro www.firstrays.com
Five gallon Kratky, Master Blend. What is film (?) on top of water and why?
Hello again Dr. Kratky! Thank you for your informative videos!! You truly are a pioneer!
I DID IT! I set up my first Kratky Tote container last night at 11:00 pm EST!!! I have a much larger tote (black and yellow) - 27 gallon. I used polysterene (1 inch) insulation board - had my brother in law cut me 6 holes with the fancy drill bit - and placed my tomatoes in their 3 inch net pots into the holes in rock wool. I added Root Farm nutrient solution which is what I have started these 50 tomatoes from as seeds indoors about 4 weeks ago.
I do not have the fancy flow valve - gravity fed pump. How much more water do you think I will need to add?
How long until I have tomatoes do you think? The plants were about 2 inches high (I used 2 plants per rock wool and net pot) when placed in last night.
What is your opinion about these companies?
- Aquaponics
- Viscon
- Plenty
As resources (water) (electricity) become more and more conserved in the next 25-50 years...do you believe all food will be grown in this method?
Congratulations, you are on your way to becoming a hydroponic grower! Our tomatoes required about 4 gallons of water per lb of tomato fruit, so 5 lb/plant would require about 20 gal of water. No, I don't think all food will be produced this way, but hydroponics will probably become more popular in the future.
dakineapproaches How many days for a tomato plant to harvest using hydroponics?
This will largely depend upon the climate and the cultivar used. Seed catalogs usually suggest the estimated time to harvest. Hydroponics properly performed might speed the harvest time by a week or so.
Thanks! :) Can you share your estimated time in your greenhouse for tomatoes? (in your videos)
Aloha Dr Kratky,
For Hawaii's hot weather, do you recommend using shade cloth for lettuce? If so, what percentage?
Also, do you recommend checking the PH.
FYI... I am on Oahu.
Mahalo.
Refer to pages 3-4 and 12-13 of www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/VC-1.pdf
30-50% shading in summer might be helpful in summer particularly with Green Mignonette lettuce, but the reduced light could cause lower yields in winter.
dakineapproaches
Thank You! That is an excellent paper you wrote and really helps. The citations at the end, along with the easy access hyperlinks, are a treasure trove of knowledge also.
The Kratky concept is in fact a great idea worthy of the Nobel Prize. but not necessarily the best of all the farming methods. Circulating water and supplying oxygen get a better crop.
True, but electricity is then required.
@@SuperheroArmorychannel not if you do this near a river - redirect the flow of river into your growing bed and let the natural gravity circulate spent water back to river
Dr. Kraty, I had an idea that I would like to run by you.
What if you had some land on a bend of a shore, along side a river or creek or stream, and you dug out a canal off that shore inland, creating a small cove. Then, on the opposite end of that cove, you dug another canal, much small then the first one, leading back to the river, that way the water flow rate would be slowed considerably, or just use a gate to control the flow, causing a lot more sediment a natural nutrients to build in the cove? Then build floating platforms that have 4 to 6 inches of air space underneath them to place your plants in net pots in?
It would be a continuous supply of fresh water, food and oxygen for the plants, especially if it's a semi murky water.
What's your thoughts sir?
For folks that have very limited access to supplys, like, big box store items, such as miracle grow, (not sure what the NPK is on that stuff), how much of this per gallon of water would you recommend to grow something using your method, say like, swiss chard, kale, cucumbers, tomatoes?
Any advice would be helpful sir, thank you.
Natureboy
You have an interesting question! Normally, our growing system uses a closed tank of water, where the nutrients are either taken up by the plants or remain in the solution. However, in your proposed flow through system, nutrients would need to be continuously added and then most of the nutrients will flow away down the river as new water enters the root space of the plants. It would be difficult to maintain an optimum nutrient concentration for the plants and there would considerable waste of nutrients. Details on the suggested nutrient program for cucumbers, tomatoes and a few other crops are contained in several other youtubes on the 'dakineapproaches' channel.
Tjakepzzz 👌 👍 Sangatzzz
Very Cool 👌👍 Indeed
how about light source?
dakineapproaches: Thank you for making growing indoors so simple, Dr. Kratky! Since I live in a condo HOA that forbids the growing of any kind of edible plants (including flowers) due to hungry javelina herds, my 'inner gardener' has been REALLY upset, for years. Thanks to Jeb Gardener displaying the Kratky method, I am now SO excited and have started growing tomatoes, zucchini, lettuce, catnip, spinach, roses and spices in my spare bedroom and bathroom--both of which have NO natural light. I have a question about this condo problem though: can I grow dwarf fruit trees with this method? What size container would it take for a 6-10 foot tall tree? I'd like to grow fig, lemon, key lime, and jujube trees in my living room. I know I'll need some serious lighting; it's like a cave in here.
I would use a 5 gal container filled with porous growing medium containing at least 2 components (peat, perlite, vermiculite and coir) and sub-irrigate with about 1 inch of hydroponic nutrient solution and that could be automated by using a float valve. Start with a nutrient solution strength of EC- 1.0 mS and increase strength if plant appears deficient. Good luck!
Thanks Dr. Kratky!
I was amazed at these results.....then realized ..this is in Hawaii!!....sun for days, humidity, absolute perfect growing climate. Can't do this in north Texas, even in a greenhouse. Great info.....but moved too fast and pics not detailed enough. Thanks tho!
Working in west Texas.
Combat the evaporation with distilled water using common sense to keep the water level correct so the air roots have air and water roots have water.
my plant always root rot when the root exposed to air
Can you please let me know if these systems are using lighting
(what time and for how long) or sunlight
We only used sunlight in our trials, but supplemental lighting would be helpful when daylength is shorter than about 11 hours.
Is there any PH adjustment done in this method or just put the plant and forget?
If we are willing to accept a pH range of 5.0 to 7.5, which is acceptable for gardening or hobby purposes, then most times we get by without pH adjustment as long as a hydroponic fertilizer formulation is used. However, pH adjustment may be needed when using field fertilizers and some water sources and when trying to maintain a very narrow pH range.
How precise and specific does the nutrient mix need to be? It seems there are infinite possibilities of the mixtures?
The nutrient mix needs to contain all the required nutrients and the nitrate-N:ammonium-N ratio should be around 95:5. The concentration range can probably vary from 1/2 to 2x of the optimum rate without serious damage to plants, but of course, some yield loss occurs when one deviates from the optimum.
A normal hydro setup kind of goes through a cycle like the diagram at 3:48 - as the plant drinks the water the water level goes down but the roots are still in moist air just like in the diagram...except then you top it off with more water and nutrients multiple times. It seems like the kratky method is for short little grows with plans that don’t use much oxygen am I wrong ?
can you tell me what are the proper ppm levels for your nutrients when growing this way?
When we added 15 ml of each of the 2 stock solutions (with the Hydro-Gardens 8-15-36 formula) to a gallon of growing solution, the ppm in the growing solution were as follows: N - 112, P-31, K-142, Ca-95, Mg-29, Fe-1.9, Mn-0.95, Zn-0.24, Cu-0.24, B-0.95 and Mo- 0.05. With some crops such as cucumbers and with later stages of tomatoes, we increased the rate to 20 ml of each stock solution per gallon of growing solution and then the ppm would be 1/3 more. We didn't conduct individual nutrient studies, so it is likely that performance could be improved by optimizing the individual nutrient levels at various stages of a particular crop's growth. I encourage you to conduct those studies.
Thanks. I will do some research.
Any findings?
I typically use 15-40 gal storage plastic totes for my Kratky but we can't avoid algae. Do you have any suggestions on light stabilizers (sodium benzoate, peroxide etc) that can reduce/eliminate algae which eventually leads to root rot?
The better approach might be to shade the totes with something like a garbage bag or perhaps, paint them with a dark color.
@@growkratky5558 I've tried this but perhaps burying the container will help with both high temps and light!
@@golfshoe9321 have you tried mylar emergency blankets? They reflect light and heat. Might work better than a black plastic bag that heats up in the sun despite keeping light out.
Sir may I ask? Can I use organic fertilizers as a water nutrient solution?
You may wish to read the suggestions by Elementaldomain posted about 1 year ago.
Where do you get the nutrients from? I can’t seem to find master blend on Oahu.
Masterblend is available on Amazon. You might check with the UH Cooperative Extension Service on Oahu to find which hydroponic fertilizers are available on Oahu.
Mahalo.
if you are not using pumps, how do you get water in to the containers? Do they ever run out of solution, doesn't the solution begin to rot without AIR STONES or movement?
Containers are initially filled with water from a hose. No additional water is needed for short-term crops provided theere is initially 1-2 gal water per plant. Long term crops such as tomatoes need additional water which is best added using a water level controller such as a float valve device. The solution level may lower, stay the same or be increased less than an inch as complete refilling will cause the plant to 'drown'. The nutrient solution doesn't 'rot' when a conventional hydroponic chemical fertilizer such as from Hydro-Gardens is added to the water, but an organic fertilizer would likely decompose and give off gasses etc. and appear to 'rot'.
Is it possible to grow beautifully in Pvc pipe?
It should work as long as the pipe diameter is at least 4 inches. Polyethylene or polypropylene would be preferred materials over pvc.
Hydroponic water mixture for 5 gallons how to do
Aloha Dr. Kratky,
initially i thought that there has to be a specific ratio of the moist-air space and the nutrient solution, because the roots need to get oxygen out of the air, as the plant grows, because there will be less and less oxygen in the water (because it is non-circulating).
But then you talked about the floating raft, that doesn't have any moist-air space. So how does the plant feed itself with oxygen, when the whole root system is underwater?
Yes, for most crops, you are correct that the upper roots rely on the moist air between the solution surface and the floating cover for oxygen. Nevertheless, the floating raft was successful for watercress which is amongst a small group of plants such as rice that can grow directly in water. However, if lettuce and most other vegetables are grown in floating rafts, the nutrient solution should be aerated. We successfully employed a float-support system for lettuce where the rafts initially floated when the plants were small and then came to rest on 4-inch diameter pipes after the upper inch or so of nutrient solution was depleted, and then, the liquid level continued to lower as the plants grew, and this caused an increasing air space between the raft and the surface of the solution.
@@growkratky5558 I had too many lettuce sprouts and I did not want to discard them. So I took some scrap Styrofoam sheet and poked a bunch of holes into it, and stuffed the extra sprouts in. I filled a square container full of nutrient solution all the way to the top, as these sprouts barely had roots or first leaves but I didn't want to stunt them while they waited for a growing spot. The tiny sprouts floated gently on the surface of the liquid.
Unfortunately I became unwell, and was unable to make a new bed to transfer them. Fortunately, as the plants drank the solution, the water level dropped, and eventually the foam came to rest on an inner lip of the container.
I expected to find a rotted mess, but the self created airspace allowed these sprouts to continue growing despite the crowded conditions and because of the solution I first gave them. They turned out a bit smaller than my larger tank fed lettuces, but I am harvesting baby heads of romaine nonetheless.
Thanks accidental airspace!!!
@@Metqa This sounds similar to the Float-support method which we used to grow lettuce.
I want to grow arugula. How can I know what type of fertiliser to use, how much water is needed and how deep must the container be?
Check out my 'dakineapproaches' UA-cam channel and view my 2 youtubes on arugula.
Come and join the Kratky Hydroponics community.
facebook.com/groups/KratkyHydroponics/
Question here??? Can I grow 50 lettuce plants using the Kratky method and planting in weekly intervals? Knowing the last plant the roots may not reach water because the previous weeks planting has lowered the level. Can I had solution and how will this impact air roots of earlier plants??
Chances are that growth will be deterred, but plants should survive. However, the optimum way to grow is to plant the whole tank, then walk away and come back at harvest time. Maybe you should use smaller tanks so the whole tank can be planted each week.
@@growkratky5558 Thank you.
Can you make a video detailing your pot in pot in pot system, thank you
I will try to produce the video by the end of this year.
@@growkratky5558 Thank you so much, cant wait! You make some pretty amazing content. Much appreciated ;)
Most people adapting the Kratky hydroponic methods (In UA-cam) are saying that when the plant grew bigger, they need the air space between the plants upper roots and nutrient solution, so if your container is small you can only add up to 2 inches of nutrients maximum (from the container bottom) or it will kill the plant. I found that to be CONFLICTING with the floating hydroponics (WITH NO AIR SPACE) with all the roots completely submerged in the nutrient solution and grew from seedling to maturity. Would it be because of Dr. Kratky's illustration, people ASSUMED that the moist air space is really a NECESSARY requirement.
An air space is not needed in circulating and aerated solution. In non-circulated, non-aerated solution, plants can grow ok without an air space when in the seedling stage, and they can grow poorly when larger. My experience has shown that most plants grow much better with an air space when they are larger. When adding refill solution to the tank, take care not to add more than about 1/2 - 1 inch. Allowing a tank to become nearly empty and then filling to the tank cover will 'drown' the air roots and injure or kill the plant. The nutrient solution level may be lowered or allowed to stay the same, but it shouldn't be raised more than 1/2 to 1 inch.
@@growkratky5558, Thanks, that make sense now. Floating hydroponics is only for circulating or dwc hydroponics but not recommended on non circulating.
Hai you have said about nutrition concentration , how much is the dilution? ( what is the dilution of A & B solution ) pl reply
Please study the section on fertilizer starting on p. 10 of www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/VC-1.pdf for lettuce production. Increase fertilizer rate by about 1/3 for pakchoi, watercress and cucumbers and use a phased in approach for tomatoes as suggested in my tomato youtube.
Thank you for your reply
Sir, can we use coco peat as a growing medium for seedling? please suggest
Sir, One more issue I am facing. I am using ground water and the PH level of water is 510. How I can reduce this and what is the ideal level of water should be?
PPM maybe? PH varies from 1 to 14
The information on pages 8-13 of this article might be useful www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/VC-1.pdf
Thanks you so much. This will help me a lot. Best Regards always.
Please Be my mentor . May I have your email please........
Has anyone tried this method for a decorative (flowering plants) garden? If so, which plants are best for something like that?
what's amazing with this method is you can grow anything you want! Do you have a certain plant in mind? I can almost guarantee it will work.
In the meantime I've decided to just jump in the water and swim. I have some seeds in the nursery, hopefully something will come of those. I'm also going to collect cuttings from a friend. Some ferns and a few others. Also considering roses, rosemary, lavender and all kinds of herbs.
@@MihaSinkovec1981 very cool! good luck with your plants!
I very much like Kratky method and my plant also successfully start growing by this ... but now as i am growing them at home i want to know the complete nutrient percentage in water solution?? (Due to non availability of some nutrient in our city)
Please see p.9 of www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/VC-7.pdf for watercress fertilizer components.
Thank you
Hi. I have just started using this system to grow veges. My plants aren't growing. Please help. I have hydroponics fertiliser and hydrogen peroxide in the mix. All my plants are in a 2 litre container.
Please check out my garden video. It might give you some clues to adapt to your situation. ua-cam.com/video/huwgwTHZmPE/v-deo.html
the ONLY problem is how to make sure the rain does not fill up the reservoirs if you grow outside. Big big problem.
Has anyone tried growing sunflowers this way?
I haven't seen any reports of growing sunflowers this way, but would suggest using a dwarf variety, because tall varieties probably would fall over.
Hello from Maldives. Could you please tell how to dilute stock solutions for 20 liters water.
A good starting point is a 250:1 dilution = 4 ml stock solution/liter water = 80 ml stock solution/20 liters water. During cold weather or nutrient deficiency symptom expression, increase the rate 1 to 2 ml/liter.
This is a wonderful concept, but to me, not good implementation. There is this wonderful method and then highly toxic plastic is used to grow food. Plastic leaching causes neurological problems. And then we have chemical fertilizers used - it just does not make sense to me. One of the reasons we grow food is to avoid toxins and poisons - not just to perpetuate what is already being done to our food we buy in stores.
We are spending this summer trying to find healthier ways to use this method - I will post either a success or failure, or perhaps temporary failure as we see we can keep improving on a better method. Thank you Mr. Kratky for coming up with this though, it is a wonderful revelation.
An excerpt from Kratky, B.A. 2016, Growing direct-seeded watercress by two non-circulating hydroponic methods. University of Hawaii CTAHR VC-7.
Growing a crop in a system utilizing plastic components raises questions related to migration of chemical contaminants from plastic tank liners, net pots, and tank covers into plants and whether this poses a potential food
safety threat. Guidance on this issue recognizes that currently acceptable plastic materials are in widespread use for foods, beverages, and medicines, all of which are stored in plastic containers, and water, which is delivered
by plastic irrigation and residential water pipes. The proposed hydroponic systems for watercress production employ polyethylene tank liners and polypropylene net pots. Material Safety Data Sheets (2012, 2014a) report
that these plastics have very low toxicity to humans and animals and are not considered dangerous to humans.
However, Yang et al. (2011) pointed out that polymerization is rarely complete in the manufacturing process and additives are not chemically part of the polymeric structures. Many monomers and additives used to make
plastics exhibit some estrogenic activity and can be released from the plastic. Fortunately, Yang et al. (2011) have identified monomers and additives that do not have detectable estrogenic activity, and these can be utilized in manufacturing processes at minimal additional costs.
Recommended tank covers for these proposed growing systems include expanded and extruded polystyrene. Individual monomers of styrene can be released from polystyrene. Health hazard information from styrene is
reported in a Material Safety Data Sheet (2014b) and an EPA report (2000). Currently, polystyrene cups are commonly used for drinking hot and cold beverages. Ahmad and Bajahlan (2007) could not detect styrene leaching
into 122F water from Styrofoam cups, but styrene was detected at higher temperatures. In addition, they pointed out that styrene and other aromatic compounds easily escaped by volatilization from the water surface due
to high vapor pressure and low solubility in the water.
Regarding using organic fertilizers vs chemical fertilizers - When organic fertilizers are mixed in water, there is likely to be microorganism activity of unknown toxicity.
Thank you for your comments. I am pleased that you are trying to find a better method and I look forward to hearing about your results. This is the best that I could come up with so far and there is always room for improvement.
The problem is that I see that most people using your method are not using food grade containers - they are using highly toxic storage bins and trash cans from places like Home Depot. I am wary of scientific research conducted by those who are at somewhat cross purposes to being neutral as to outcome of the research.
For instance, BPA free plastic came out and we all thought all was well, and now we know that to some extent, that food grade plastic still is toxic - especially to babies. And just like the GMO issue - if we don't have a co-measurement for something that might be toxic that currently we are not knowledgeable about - then that leaves us somewhat in the dark as to what is Truth. Also a problem is over-load. Its not just one thing that is toxic to us.....it numbers in hundreds and thousands - those things we are subjected to each day that are harmful and to which most people remain highly oblivious to until it is too late.
We are growing larger crops like watermelons in 55 gallon food grade water barrels - sunk totally into the ground. We grow both soil and hydroponic crops but to some extent we are not as successful as we would like and know the situation can result in. We use a modified Fukuoka method here - applied to both soil and the hydroponics - but we have had large issues with heat here in the desert - so we are using The Kratky method in the 55 gallon barrels - and a combination of organic fertilizer (vegan) and rock powder. If you know how to work properly with microbes, fungus and bacteria - then toxicity is never an issue.
One of the biggest problems is that people use fertilizer and do not consider trace minerals as a necessary equation to have success.
We do a lot of experimentation such as Rob Nash of Austin Aquaponics has done - and we have also found that preconceived notions and scientific evidence is arbitrary - and should not be used as a co-measurement for what can be possible. Anything is possible if you follow your Heart instead of your head. Just because everyone thinks the world is flat, does not mean it is - LOL.
We are currently using aquariums as alternatives to plastic (10 gallon is available at Walmart for $15). Also 1/2 gallon canning jars which are cheap. These two products are endlessly renewal in use. We are considering using bath tubs also - the old ones, not the newer fiberglass ones. We are joyously happy to find a way to use your method and be able to use products that are kind to both the environment and our body.
Keep up the Good Work Dear One.......you are most appreciated.
Elementaldomain I too am worried about the use of chemical fertilizers. I realize that this is what we eat when we eat produce in the supermarket, but I wanted to provide a more natural solution to growing, but not by using the dirt method, but with the Kratky. I can't find an organic solution or dry power that would satisfy the plants growing this way. I am not familiar with toxicity in using organic fertilizers. I have tried putting natural dry fertilizers in the water but the plants don't lee, to grow well with it. Could you please advise me on what to use for this? Thank you.
You can use this as a start: 1/4 tsp FloraMicro, 2 tsp FloraGrow, 3 tsp FloraBloom, 1 tsp CalMag Plus, 1/2 tsp Epsom Salt. This would be for a quart jar. Adding Florablend is a big plus.
What we are trying here at Expressions of The Heart Organics is not putting anything in the water but pure water and this blend above. This is the first year we will be switching over from ebb n flow to entirely Kratky - using 55 gallon food grade barrels entirely sunk in the ground (to keep the root system cool) and using aeration (we live in the desert). We usually supplement with SEA-90 and micronized trace elements like Azomite and molasses (foliar). If we need further supplementation we use additional foliar feeding with such things such as comfrey compost tea (UA-cam has vids on this) or vegan worm tea using the AACT method of Tim Wilson.
One must realize that although Masterblend is called organic, it is not approved for organic commercial gardening. There are many loopholes that allow a company to use the word organic but is not actually organic. Commercial growers can lobby and win exclusions that allow them to label a product organic but it isn't. But thats another story.
You can reach me at riverpinballwizard@yahoo.com. This is a new field so to speak - but nothing is impossible - look at what Rob Nash at Austin Hydroponics has done (he is on UA-cam). He is using aquaculture theory but not using fish. Everything is possible if one wants to do the work.
Using 100% Pure Epsom Salts is a good thing to do - such as Saltworks Epsom salts. Epsom salts usually have a lot of additives that one who is concerned about what is in their food really doesn't want to use.
Thank you for your excellent and thorough reply for this often asked question about a recommended organic fertilizer program for this growing system. We have tried several all-in-one organic fertilizers with unsatisfactory results and I have always felt bad about not having an answer for organic growers. I hope some other organic growers also respond with their recommendations and/or experience.
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And get fungus mold and Algue .
I literally started doing this myself about 10 years ago cuz I was tired of connecting all pumps and manifolds and lines for absolutely no reason best way so far and that's growing marijuana
I want tarrow it's supposed to be much healthier than tomatoes
Rick is that you? Where is Morty?
the problem here is temprature, the water gets to hot
That could be a big problem for this growing method.
Wish the ad to learn Hebrew would go
It's hard to take you serious when you use toxic materials everything should be food grade what sort of talk about
Thanks for your comment. Polyethylene and polypropylene plastics are the usual components of tank liners, net pots and growing containers. Material Safety Data Sheets report that these plastics have low toxicity to humans and animals, but additives that leak from the plastics might have some harmful effects if inferior materials are used in the manufacturing process. PVC was used as a trellis material which should be a safe use. There are health concerns associated with some aspects of PVC plastics, but PVC pipe is rated and approved for drinking water and PVC pipe has been used in water systems for many years. Polystyrene is used for the cover material in some applications. Styrene has known health hazards, mostly by workers breathing fumes from workplace air. Styrene is very insoluble and escapes from water by volatilization. Polystyrene is used to manufacture commonly used beverage cups and one study did not detect styrene in cold water sitting in polystyrene cups, but styrene was detected in hot beverages above 122 degrees F. Tank solutions are usually around room temperature and should pose a low risk due to the insolubility of styrene at low temperatures. A study indicated no statistical difference in aluminum uptake by plants whether or not aluminum beverage cans were used as growing containers. Yes, I agree that plastics should be used in a food safe manner and foodsafe plastics should be used in hydroponics.