I did it again with my new used 2001 vulcan and this time it was even faster and easier with new 1/3/4 hole saw .. Merry Xmas ,and thanks again saved me some serious cash , nov 13 2016 . u dont need a pilot drill just hold her steady till she gets started ,works great sounds better
Thanks for this! This was the first mod I’ve done to my new-to-me ‘04 Vulcan Nomad 1500. Adds great sound. Plenty to hear the engine over the wind and let others know I’m around without being crazy loud. I had a couple struggles getting this done. First, I found the hole saws I bought were torched after cutting one pipe. I had to buy 2. Also, after cutting, I was able to wrestle one baffle out, but the second one wasn’t moving. Found a tip to rent a slide hammer from an auto parts store, and that eventually did the trick. Thanks again!
i have a 2006 Vulcan 1500 Classic fi. I used a holesaw, drilled out around baffle. Found out there is a flange of sorts on baffle and had to use heavy long nose pliers to grab end, break it loose, then literally roll it up on itself to clear flange. Baffle only about 5-6 inches long. Added some rumble but most of the silencing is done by the "goat belly " catalyst. I didn't have to remap fi system, bike runs fine.
Attention! I recently did this project to my 1500 nomad. As I went to the local Home depot, I thought it was a good idea to purchase a Milwaukee brand hole saw, that was the same size. Huge mistake! it was actually slightly larger than the ace brand. That said, it turned out to be a greater challenge than what was shown on the video here. Not only was it to wide, but it was more brittle than the ace brand. And so I drove over to my local ace hardware store and purchased the correct one. After that, it was a cake walk! I am very much pleased with the results. if you're considering doing the same to your bike, I say " Go for it"! you won't be disappointed....
you're not going to damage the engine with a simple mod like this. The reason u have to retune/calibrate the fuel system is when you either completely change the system, performance pipes may be larger in dia at the headers & different lengths which will effect exhaust gas flow, and when you change the air intake, allowing the engine greater vollume of air to the combustion process.
could not find a way to email you just wanted to say thank you you saved me a ton of money I have to nomad s and now this one sounds better with the baffles removed then my other one with the Vance & Hines exhaust thanks again Brent
No re-jets or re-tunes would be needed for this project, as the constriction of air-flow at the end of the exhaust wouldn't be noticed by the oxygen sensor near the engine, and therefore also wouldn't effect the fuel injection system.
hi guys, i've drilled the exhaust to the point where the baffle moves around. . . but i've pulled and tugged, they ain't coming out. . any idea's greatly appreciated. . !
Wasn't there fiberglass mat inside the pipe also? I saw a video where this guy drilled out the baffles like you did, but he also removed some fiberglass from the exhaust pipe. Once he did that the pipe was truly 100% empty.
+Dennis Harnisch - Dennis, how long did you own you bike after you removed the baffles? and how amny miles did you put on it. Also, was there any issues with the removal. i.e. performance, and the like. I want to do this, but I also don't want to mess the bike up.. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks again, and I hope your still riding.. Todd
I have a Vulcan 2000cc, but mine is fuel injected. I been told if I get new pipes I also need too re program the computer also, how did you keep it from mistfire?
The computer will adjust mixture automatically. within limits.. every vehicle has it's individual characteristics mapped into the injector timing curve.. ie.. if you push the horsepower to a non-standard part of the rev range by increasing the length of the collectors >>or diameter by removing baffles>> this changes the torque and horsepower curve shapes. Whether this will effect the injection timing or not is dependent on individual system design. However, most injection systems are programmed to adjust for air pressure .. as when you climb a mountain road.. so it is quite likely your computer will be ok. The only way to be 100% sure is have it dyno'd. Howevr a mechanic would simply read the signs before going to that expense >>> the spark plugs will tell you of any rich/lean mixture.. and the rider will be able to discern any power loss or hesitation. Generally a reduction in flow restriction in an exhaust will make more horsepower at a higher rev point but it is not as simple as that in practice
Edwin Henry Blachford Thanks for that post. Good info there. I have another question for ya, if you wouldn't mind. I 'un-baffled' my '99 VN1500G (carburetor) and now it floods regularly (I smell gas and it won't start until I let it set a couple minutes). This is to the point where as I come to a stop for parking, if I'm going to start it again soon (like a gas station stop), I'll kill the fuel while it's idling to burn up most of the fuel that has been sprayed, or at least stop excessive spray. Then when I come back out, I'm sure to NOT choke it and leave the fuel off, assuming I didn't burn up all the sprayed fuel previously. It almost always works, so then I just turn the fuel back on and take off. The local garage said with the baffles removed I should be adding more fuel. I don't see how this would help me to not flood it. The tech was 'baffled'... I've never had a backfire until I un-baffled it. I've had (only) one since, about a month ago. Spark plugs didn't look black shortly after I did it. I haven't check since then. There's also a noticeable increase in horsepower (and beautiful noise). :-) Any ideas on what I should do to make starting more reliable?
bradandbarb Hi Brad, I'd say that at the moment the float level is too high. Perhaps this is due to changes in the vacuum at the top of the float chamber with the exhaust changes ..but i'm guessing there. A high float causes the fuel to overflow out the bleed holes, most noticeable at idle or when engine is stopped. Also, the bike runs rich as soon as the engine approaches idle causing it to flutter or stall. With a lot of Kawasaki carbies the float can be checked externally with a bit of clear plastic hose on the nipple at the base of the float chamber, but check your manual for your model. Adjustment is simply by unscrewing the float bowl/measuring the height as shown in the manual/bending a brass tang to the correct setting... and if there is a neoprene gasket on the bowl (usually is ) this adjustment costs nothing.
could not find a way to email you I just want to say thank you for saving me a ton of money now I don't have to buy a whole exhaust system for my 2001 nomad
I did it again with my new used 2001 vulcan and this time it was even faster and easier with new 1/3/4 hole saw .. Merry Xmas ,and thanks again saved me some serious cash , nov 13 2016 . u dont need a pilot drill just hold her steady till she gets started ,works great sounds better
Thanks for this! This was the first mod I’ve done to my new-to-me ‘04 Vulcan Nomad 1500. Adds great sound. Plenty to hear the engine over the wind and let others know I’m around without being crazy loud.
I had a couple struggles getting this done. First, I found the hole saws I bought were torched after cutting one pipe. I had to buy 2. Also, after cutting, I was able to wrestle one baffle out, but the second one wasn’t moving. Found a tip to rent a slide hammer from an auto parts store, and that eventually did the trick.
Thanks again!
Wow!! Really nice sound!! Don't go louder, louder is not better. A good, deep, sound is classy and that's what you have here.
Use cutting oil on the hole saw, makes the job faster, and makes the saw last a lot longer.
This worked GREAT! Not to loud just a nice deep sound. No problems at all. I used a cordless drill...It took me about 1 hr and killed 5 batteries.
i have a 2006 Vulcan 1500 Classic fi. I used a holesaw, drilled out around baffle. Found out there is a flange of sorts on baffle and had to use heavy long nose pliers to grab end, break it loose, then literally roll it up on itself to clear flange. Baffle only about 5-6 inches long. Added some rumble but most of the silencing is done by the "goat belly " catalyst. I didn't have to remap fi system, bike runs fine.
Attention! I recently did this project to my 1500 nomad. As I went to the local Home depot, I thought it was a good idea to purchase a Milwaukee brand hole saw, that was the same size. Huge mistake! it was actually slightly larger than the ace brand. That said, it turned out to be a greater challenge than what was shown on the video here. Not only was it to wide, but it was more brittle than the ace brand. And so I drove over to my local ace hardware store and purchased the correct one. After that, it was a cake walk! I am very much pleased with the results. if you're considering doing the same to your bike, I say " Go for it"! you won't be disappointed....
you're not going to damage the engine with a simple mod like this. The reason u have to retune/calibrate the fuel system is when you either completely change the system, performance pipes may be larger in dia at the headers & different lengths which will effect exhaust gas flow, and when you change the air intake, allowing the engine greater vollume of air to the combustion process.
could not find a way to email you just wanted to say thank you you saved me a ton of money I have to nomad s and now this one sounds better with the baffles removed then my other one with the Vance & Hines exhaust thanks again Brent
I just bought an 02 1500 nomad FI was looking for something slightly louder. Would this model be too loud. I did like the rumble
No re-jets or re-tunes would be needed for this project, as the constriction of air-flow at the end of the exhaust wouldn't be noticed by the oxygen sensor near the engine, and therefore also wouldn't effect the fuel injection system.
worked like a charm, nice lower and a bit louder rumble
Looks easy sounds great. Have a Vaquero a little uneasy about doing it
Hi I have a 93 vn1500 carb model I planon doing this to
Why wouldn't a 2 inch work?
Do you have to readjust the carbs ?
hi guys, i've drilled the exhaust to the point where the baffle moves around. . . but i've pulled and tugged, they ain't coming out. . any idea's greatly appreciated. . !
Take pipe completely off and see if it's clamped
What about the cat under the bike? My dads 05 nomad has one he removed the pipes completely and the bike was just as quiet
not much difference in exhaust, can it still pass inspection? ( good vid on how to do it DIY, tho),
Does anyone know if this will work on a 2015 kawasaki voyager 1700?
been there done that expect your head pipes to turn blue rasing the needle up two clicks on the carb metering needle jet does the trick extra 5 hp
anold auto tech this was FI.
Wasn't there fiberglass mat inside the pipe also? I saw a video where this guy drilled out the baffles like you did, but he also removed some fiberglass from the exhaust pipe. Once he did that the pipe was truly 100% empty.
Good question. I'll run a grabber up the pipes and see what I find!
did ya re-jet or re-map?
Sounds bad ass even with just the baffles removed Magine a full muffler delete
If i remove the baffles from my VN 800 how will affect the MOT?
Great Job!!
Sounds great....Bet you couldn't wait to ride?
fx802 a great improvement at least for me! Wish I still had the bike.
+Dennis Harnisch - Dennis, how long did you own you bike after you removed the baffles? and how amny miles did you put on it. Also, was there any issues with the removal. i.e. performance, and the like. I want to do this, but I also don't want to mess the bike up..
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks again, and I hope your still riding..
Todd
Had bike several months and few hundred miles - had no problems.
I have a Vulcan 2000cc, but mine is fuel injected. I been told if I get new pipes I also need too re program the computer also, how did you keep it from mistfire?
This bike is FI also and no misfires or backfires!
The computer will adjust mixture automatically. within limits.. every vehicle has it's individual characteristics mapped into the injector timing curve.. ie.. if you push the horsepower to a non-standard part of the rev range by increasing the length of the collectors >>or diameter by removing baffles>> this changes the torque and horsepower curve shapes. Whether this will effect the injection timing or not is dependent on individual system design. However, most injection systems are programmed to adjust for air pressure .. as when you climb a mountain road.. so it is quite likely your computer will be ok. The only way to be 100% sure is have it dyno'd. Howevr a mechanic would simply read the signs before going to that expense >>> the spark plugs will tell you of any rich/lean mixture.. and the rider will be able to discern any power loss or hesitation. Generally a reduction in flow restriction in an exhaust will make more horsepower at a higher rev point but it is not as simple as that in practice
Edwin Henry Blachford Thanks for that post. Good info there. I have another question for ya, if you wouldn't mind.
I 'un-baffled' my '99 VN1500G (carburetor) and now it floods regularly (I smell gas and it won't start until I let it set a couple minutes).
This is to the point where as I come to a stop for parking, if I'm going to start it again soon (like a gas station stop), I'll kill the fuel while it's idling to burn up most of the fuel that has been sprayed, or at least stop excessive spray. Then when I come back out, I'm sure to NOT choke it and leave the fuel off, assuming I didn't burn up all the sprayed fuel previously. It almost always works, so then I just turn the fuel back on and take off.
The local garage said with the baffles removed I should be adding more fuel. I don't see how this would help me to not flood it. The tech was 'baffled'...
I've never had a backfire until I un-baffled it. I've had (only) one since, about a month ago.
Spark plugs didn't look black shortly after I did it. I haven't check since then. There's also a noticeable increase in horsepower (and beautiful noise). :-)
Any ideas on what I should do to make starting more reliable?
bradandbarb
Hi Brad, I'd say that at the moment the float level is too high. Perhaps this is due to changes in the vacuum at the top of the float chamber with the exhaust changes ..but i'm guessing there. A high float causes the fuel to overflow out the bleed holes, most noticeable at idle or when engine is stopped. Also, the bike runs rich as soon as the engine approaches idle causing it to flutter or stall. With a lot of Kawasaki carbies the float can be checked externally with a bit of clear plastic hose on the nipple at the base of the float chamber, but check your manual for your model. Adjustment is simply by unscrewing the float bowl/measuring the height as shown in the manual/bending a brass tang to the correct setting... and if there is a neoprene gasket on the bowl (usually is ) this adjustment costs nothing.
bradandbarb I would start with idle mixture adjustment.
Thx man...this is a great video and honest too
that's a baffle? lol its just a tube, my baffles have walls and everything
o ya btw,not for nothing DO NOT GO TO DENVER,the cops there LOVE unbaffled pipes
VN sounds not nice, and the reason are the narrow pipes near the cylinder exits.
Lol that was clever, I did get a smile out of that one
and why are we doing this???
No not "doing" - already DONE did it!
I'm wondering if it's a good idea to remove baffles?
Why do you do this in the dark? Wasn`t your bike, eh?!
Much better sound!
This is they way
His bike went through puberty
Sound and visual effects!! 👍
This did not make any noticeable difference to my VN 1600 classic.
Most likely because of the goat belly underneath that connects the pipes together they sell a cat bypass on eBay for $180
@@nolancoolguy12 Thanks! I'll look up that cat bypass on Ebay. Do you have a link for it by any chance?
Good job
Me gusta ese sonido que rico
Ok now go get 2 inch a CD cut out rest of it till nothing but chrome your hole is crukid
Sounds the same
could not find a way to email you I just want to say thank you for saving me a ton of money now I don't have to buy a whole exhaust system for my 2001 nomad