My wife is Japanese and last time she visited her home she went right to the main Tamiya factory in Japan and got me the Spitfire IX 1/32 scale. I have the P51D as well... the very best kitsets ❤
Greetings my friend, the F4U was absolutely stunning, I really liked the waynthe painted on markings turned out, way better than decals, congratulations on this stunning piece of work, best regards from Australia, happy modelling, Les
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Sunday, 4 August, 2024) EDITED Gorgeously detailed kit! Excellent assembly. At 34:00, you forgot a pair of gloves and a respirator. The atomised paint can be toxic to your lungs, possibly your skin. Sam (I assume that to be your name), you are joyously excellent in your model-building, detailing, painting, etc. I wish I could demonstrate for you how you bring delight to my grim, difficult, empty life, so that you more fully can see my fervent appreciation for you of this and other similar videos. I so keenly long for kits such as these! In the meantime, I will enjoy (if but wistfully) your assembly. Thank you for showing us how. At 6:55 of your video, you augment a part of the cockpit with several modest lengths of copper wire. Here is an especially apt case in point in which I wish detailers would explain to us exactly what they do, and why; e.g., 1) precisely how long must each wire be, and 2) what gauge are they (so we can select the correct drill bit)? 3) where is the starting point of each, and 4) the end point of each, receiving the other end? Why have you made these substitutions? (It usually is that the kit lacks that feature, requiring one’s addition, or what is there is too heavy or crudely rendered, requiring one’s substitution.) All these help us not merely to copy your efforts, but to learn the underlying principles of such construction, assembly, etc., which could help some improve in their employment. At 21:40, you attach to the engine proper the “ring” of open cowl flaps (does the kit include a part that represents them closed, as appropriate for airborne replicas? I mean to employ both, depending upon the circumstance of each model). Also, I read or saw on someone’s build and detailing video that each flap has a spring-loaded mechanism that activates it, which one can represent with a length of very fine wire wound round a thin steel rod, then secured at each end with cyanoacrylate. Similarly, at 39:27, you use “fine steel wire to make the antenna hooks”. Oh, I long had wondered about all that! In my youth, I had found it so exasperating to make accurate such wires (I soon came to see that sewing thread was ludicrously out of scale!) that I as often as not just had dismissed them altogether. At 39:12, you tell us you “add some wiring in the landing gear bays”. Would you be able to clarify as to the specifics, please? Where exactly are they? How many? What are the 1) gauge, 2) length, 3) start, and 4) end points of each? How many holes must one drill? Where is each? What is this “wiring”? Sometimes they are actual electrical circuitry. Others are metal tubing (aluminium), rubber hoses (rubber black), or wider, flexible ducting of some sort; knowing what they actually are facilitates the process of making things look real: verisimilitude. (I just looked up online “flexible ducting”; well, that was a blur of colours, shapes, sizes, etc.!) Does this also include the tail wheel well? At some future point, I would like to learn how to make accurate battle damage. I infer that a zigzagging sequence of bullet holes in duraluminium along an inner wing in all likelihood would look quite different from the perforations in the fabric (doped canvas?) of an aileron but a few paces away. How might one replicate larger destruction-say, the outer quarter or so of a wing sheared away when a large mass of debris from an exploding Mitsubishi G4M Imperial Japanese Army twin-engine, land-based, medium bomber (code named “Betty”) tumbled into one’s flight path. One would have to replicate a rough, jagged edge closely representing duraluminium and doped canvas in that scale. For the latter, my guess would be kaolin coated paper, then finely textured to emulate the grain of doped cloth weave, which then extends to a tattered edge. For metal skinning, would Bare Metal Foil matte aluminium be scale accurate in thickness? Well, thank you for your build, your kind offices in this forum, and whatever information you may be able to provide.
Thank you sir for such a comment. I'm really happy that you appreciate my videos. Concerning the details of..the details, I'm standing on giants shoulders. My building way is to give as much as detail that I can in terms of posibility, knowledge and time. The amount of details you can add on a model is infinite. For the cables lenght and size, it's up to me and the parts that I have in front of me. To me, a model is a problem that I have to resolve. Hope you'll enjoy the future builds! And yes, my name is Sam. Have a nice day!
Une superbe vidéo. Un superbe montage et une superbe réalisation. Le weathering et la mise en peinture sont superbes. Superbe travail. ~~ A superb video. Superb editing and superb production. The weathering and painting are superb. Superb work.
I've just ordered the Corsair, Dauntless and Avenger in 1.48 scale for a project. I did a small dio last year of two P-51s and a P-47 all Red Tails so I was thinking the same with Navy Carrier Aircraft... Now I wish I ordered them in 1.32 because it looks mad, nice build
This is absolutely one of the nicest weathering jobs I've ever seen! So far I've been reluctant to go "whole hog" with the oil wash seems like quite a lot of work cleaning and finishing it up but I think I'll try it, as I'm working on a trumpeter 1/32 Corsair similar sea blue paint. Any tips or pointers?
Thank you very much! Hope you'll enjoy your build. The tips I could give is to not glue very delicate or easy breaky parts. Glue them at the end of the build. First wash the intra, let it dry then wash the extra. That's how I like to do it. Hope it'll be helpfull.
Fun fact that most people don't seem to know about these mid war "three tone" USN aircraft color schemes. They weren't three colors they were four. White, intermediate blue, non specular (flat) sea blue, and semi gloss sea blue. And no, the two sea blues were not the same color with one flat coated. They were two different colors. The flat version was more of a grey blue, and the semi gloss was slightly greenish
Nice job. I like your “desert island” weathering, well done, also your idea for the antenna mount with twisted SS wire is good. What gauge wire did you use?
I am at the moment as I speak building one of these. I do have a question. You cockpit green is not the same as mine. The instructions call for a XF 5 Green and a XF 8 Blue to be mixed in certain portions. Mine in correct potions mixed a deep blue green but nowhere near your green. Are there colors wrong???
Thans for watching. For you question, I don't really follow in general the colors instructions. I check what have been done, and look walk arounds to get the colors. After that I make my own colors trying to get them as right as possible. If you worry about it, you should follow the kit instructions. Have fun with your build!
Corsairs up until the 1D had their cockpits painted in Dark Dull Green with a few exceptions. Which as it sounds is a dark blueish green. Interior green, as he used in this build is only accurate for a 1D ie very late war corsair. Generally Tamiya's color callouts are in the right ballpark. So that is to say, your cockpit color is fine
Great video! I learned a lot from it. Suggestion: frequently you showed off the detail of your work (like the engine) and you would CONTINUALLY move it around to show it. I’d much rather you show it by NOT moving it around for a few seconds and let MY eyes move to where I want to notice the details. It was very annoying and not helpful. Excellent camera quality. Personally, I’d rather have your commentary of what you’re doing, problems, solutions, products, etc than the music. Overall very good video. I became a subscriber. 😎
I've rather fancied getting this kit for a while. What puts me off and confuses me is the paint colours (n.b. I am colourblind). The boxart and a number of photos that I have seen have a far brighter blue being used. Yet every single Corsair that I have seen on UA-cam, the modeller, uses far more muted blues. Is there any specific reason for this? If anyone can give me an answer I would be very grateful. After which, I might go buy the F4U-1D. 😊❤😊
Thanks for watching. I think the choice of the muted colors is up to the scale. If the color is too bright, the model should seem like a toy more than scale model. But it's up to everyone to choose the effect they want.
@studiosam4350 That does make perfect sense. After all, we all want realism. Yet over the years, so much colour film footage shows glossy dark navy blue USN aircraft (or that's how my eyes see it). I suspect that might just be me, unfortunately.
@studiosam4350 I went hunting for more information. It's because from late war onwards, Corsairs were painted federal standard Gloss Sea Blue (FS 15042). Earlier in the war, there were two different colour schemes using either two or three colours. I suspect whether it was USN or USMC decided the schemes. There was another completely different scheme used by RN FAA.
Monsieur !! C'est magnifique ce montage , vous êtes très doué 👍👍👍👍 !! Meilleure vidéo que j'ai vu jusqu'à maintenant
Merci beaucoup Gilles!
My wife is Japanese and last time she visited her home she went right to the main Tamiya factory in Japan and got me the Spitfire IX 1/32 scale. I have the P51D as well... the very best kitsets ❤
Yes they are very pleasant to build! Thank you for watching!
Greetings my friend, the F4U was absolutely stunning, I really liked the waynthe painted on markings turned out, way better than decals, congratulations on this stunning piece of work, best regards from Australia, happy modelling, Les
Thank you Less!!
The F4U-1 Corsair what a nice fighter plane aircraft i like this aircraft so far. 😊😊❤😍🤩😀😁
This my favorite. Thanks for your comment!
I’m joining a group build and building this as a memorial for my dad. I love what you did here! I’m more excited to try this kit out now
Thank you for watching! Glad to here that my video gave you some inspiration!
Excellent and realistic weathering!
Thank you very much! The weathering is a really delicate task to deal with, so I plenty appreciate your comment!
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Sunday, 4 August, 2024) EDITED
Gorgeously detailed kit! Excellent assembly.
At 34:00, you forgot a pair of gloves and a respirator. The atomised paint can be toxic to your lungs, possibly your skin.
Sam (I assume that to be your name), you are joyously excellent in your model-building, detailing, painting, etc. I wish I could demonstrate for you how you bring delight to my grim, difficult, empty life, so that you more fully can see my fervent appreciation for you of this and other similar videos.
I so keenly long for kits such as these! In the meantime, I will enjoy (if but wistfully) your assembly. Thank you for showing us how.
At 6:55 of your video, you augment a part of the cockpit with several modest lengths of copper wire. Here is an especially apt case in point in which I wish detailers would explain to us exactly what they do, and why; e.g., 1) precisely how long must each wire be, and 2) what gauge are they (so we can select the correct drill bit)? 3) where is the starting point of each, and 4) the end point of each, receiving the other end? Why have you made these substitutions? (It usually is that the kit lacks that feature, requiring one’s addition, or what is there is too heavy or crudely rendered, requiring one’s substitution.) All these help us not merely to copy your efforts, but to learn the underlying principles of such construction, assembly, etc., which could help some improve in their employment.
At 21:40, you attach to the engine proper the “ring” of open cowl flaps (does the kit include a part that represents them closed, as appropriate for airborne replicas? I mean to employ both, depending upon the circumstance of each model). Also, I read or saw on someone’s build and detailing video that each flap has a spring-loaded mechanism that activates it, which one can represent with a length of very fine wire wound round a thin steel rod, then secured at each end with cyanoacrylate.
Similarly, at 39:27, you use “fine steel wire to make the antenna hooks”. Oh, I long had wondered about all that! In my youth, I had found it so exasperating to make accurate such wires (I soon came to see that sewing thread was ludicrously out of scale!) that I as often as not just had dismissed them altogether.
At 39:12, you tell us you “add some wiring in the landing gear bays”. Would you be able to clarify as to the specifics, please? Where exactly are they? How many? What are the 1) gauge, 2) length, 3) start, and 4) end points of each? How many holes must one drill? Where is each? What is this “wiring”? Sometimes they are actual electrical circuitry. Others are metal tubing (aluminium), rubber hoses (rubber black), or wider, flexible ducting of some sort; knowing what they actually are facilitates the process of making things look real: verisimilitude. (I just looked up online “flexible ducting”; well, that was a blur of colours, shapes, sizes, etc.!) Does this also include the tail wheel well?
At some future point, I would like to learn how to make accurate battle damage. I infer that a zigzagging sequence of bullet holes in duraluminium along an inner wing in all likelihood would look quite different from the perforations in the fabric (doped canvas?) of an aileron but a few paces away. How might one replicate larger destruction-say, the outer quarter or so of a wing sheared away when a large mass of debris from an exploding Mitsubishi G4M Imperial Japanese Army twin-engine, land-based, medium bomber (code named “Betty”) tumbled into one’s flight path. One would have to replicate a rough, jagged edge closely representing duraluminium and doped canvas in that scale. For the latter, my guess would be kaolin coated paper, then finely textured to emulate the grain of doped cloth weave, which then extends to a tattered edge. For metal skinning, would Bare Metal Foil matte aluminium be scale accurate in thickness?
Well, thank you for your build, your kind offices in this forum, and whatever information you may be able to provide.
Thank you sir for such a comment. I'm really happy that you appreciate my videos.
Concerning the details of..the details, I'm standing on giants shoulders. My building way is to give as much as detail that I can in terms of posibility, knowledge and time.
The amount of details you can add on a model is infinite.
For the cables lenght and size, it's up to me and the parts that I have in front of me.
To me, a model is a problem that I have to resolve.
Hope you'll enjoy the future builds!
And yes, my name is Sam.
Have a nice day!
Awesome build on this kit. Great paint job as well I'm looking forward to the next video cheers for sharing. 😊
Thank you very much!
Une superbe vidéo. Un superbe montage et une superbe réalisation. Le weathering et la mise en peinture sont superbes. Superbe travail.
~~
A superb video. Superb editing and superb production. The weathering and painting are superb. Superb work.
Merci beaucoup! Un grand merci pour votre soutien!
Same shape wings like the junkers 87 B2 Stuka. Nice work.
Thank you very much!
I've just ordered the Corsair, Dauntless and Avenger in 1.48 scale for a project. I did a small dio last year of two P-51s and a P-47 all Red Tails so I was thinking the same with Navy Carrier Aircraft... Now I wish I ordered them in 1.32 because it looks mad, nice build
Thank you very much! Have fun with your kits!
This is absolutely one of the nicest weathering jobs I've ever seen! So far I've been reluctant to go "whole hog" with the oil wash seems like quite a lot of work cleaning and finishing it up but I think I'll try it, as I'm working on a trumpeter 1/32 Corsair similar sea blue paint. Any tips or pointers?
Thank you very much! Hope you'll enjoy your build. The tips I could give is to not glue very delicate or easy breaky parts. Glue them at the end of the build.
First wash the intra, let it dry then wash the extra.
That's how I like to do it.
Hope it'll be helpfull.
Beautiful Art My Friend "Detroit"
Thank you very much!
Fun fact that most people don't seem to know about these mid war "three tone" USN aircraft color schemes.
They weren't three colors they were four.
White, intermediate blue, non specular (flat) sea blue, and semi gloss sea blue. And no, the two sea blues were not the same color with one flat coated.
They were two different colors. The flat version was more of a grey blue, and the semi gloss was slightly greenish
Thank you for your very interesting comment!
Waaoo....❤ ive planned to rebuilt my corsair after watching ur vdo 😊
Thanks for watching!🙂
A very nice job, beautiful work!!!
Thank you very much! Thank you for watching!
Love it and the engine detail in particular! I have one of these and looking forward to building it!
Thank you very much! Hope you'll enjoy your build!
Nice work sir 👍
Thank you very much!
Like it. Fixing to build one for my daughter. Non military paint scheme (her choice) but the details help.
Thank you very much! Have a nice build!
Beautiful job.
Thank you very mush!
What a pretty bent-wing bird.
Thank you very much!
What a beauty. =)
Thank you very much!
Nice job. I like your “desert island” weathering, well done, also your idea for the antenna mount with twisted SS wire is good. What gauge wire did you use?
Thank you very much! The wire diameter is 0.1mm.
Awesome! Now build one with the wings folded :-)
Yes, someday! Thanks for watching!
You were crazy😂
Thank you for your comment!
Brilliant work. Surprised you use 'craft paints' - they're generally considered not up to the task.
Thank you very much! "The so called "craft paints" work perfectly on scale model.
I am at the moment as I speak building one of these. I do have a question. You cockpit green is not the same as mine. The instructions call for a XF 5 Green and a XF 8 Blue to be mixed in certain portions. Mine in correct potions mixed a deep blue green but nowhere near your green. Are there colors wrong???
Thans for watching. For you question, I don't really follow in general the colors instructions. I check what have been done, and look walk arounds to get the colors.
After that I make my own colors trying to get them as right as possible.
If you worry about it, you should follow the kit instructions. Have fun with your build!
Corsairs up until the 1D had their cockpits painted in Dark Dull Green with a few exceptions. Which as it sounds is a dark blueish green. Interior green, as he used in this build is only accurate for a 1D ie very late war corsair.
Generally Tamiya's color callouts are in the right ballpark.
So that is to say, your cockpit color is fine
@@Octopootie1 Thank you very much for these details!
Great video! I learned a lot from it. Suggestion: frequently you showed off the detail of your work (like the engine) and you would CONTINUALLY move it around to show it. I’d much rather you show it by NOT moving it around for a few seconds and let MY eyes move to where I want to notice the details. It was very annoying and not helpful. Excellent camera quality. Personally, I’d rather have your commentary of what you’re doing, problems, solutions, products, etc than the music. Overall very good video. I became a subscriber. 😎
Thank you very much! I got your very usefull remarks. I'll think about it on the next videos for sure! Thank you!👍
how about trumpeter 1/32 F4U-1 ? which is better ?
Thank you for watching! I can't tell you about the Trumpeter's, never had it in hands.
@@studiosam4350 ok thx
I've rather fancied getting this kit for a while. What puts me off and confuses me is the paint colours (n.b. I am colourblind).
The boxart and a number of photos that I have seen have a far brighter blue being used. Yet every single Corsair that I have seen on UA-cam, the modeller, uses far more muted blues.
Is there any specific reason for this? If anyone can give me an answer I would be very grateful.
After which, I might go buy the F4U-1D. 😊❤😊
Thanks for watching. I think the choice of the muted colors is up to the scale. If the color is too bright, the model should seem like a toy more than scale model.
But it's up to everyone to choose the effect they want.
@studiosam4350 That does make perfect sense. After all, we all want realism. Yet over the years, so much colour film footage shows glossy dark navy blue USN aircraft (or that's how my eyes see it). I suspect that might just be me, unfortunately.
@studiosam4350 I went hunting for more information. It's because from late war onwards, Corsairs were painted federal standard Gloss Sea Blue (FS 15042).
Earlier in the war, there were two different colour schemes using either two or three colours. I suspect whether it was USN or USMC decided the schemes.
There was another completely different scheme used by RN FAA.
@@markstott6689 We see the same things, The real colors are most of the time glossy.
@@markstott6689 Thank you for your researches. They will be helpfull to everybody!