[The metal C-clip is called a retainer ring in the video. This is not an incorrect name but for lack of a different term for the black plastic dials-retaining part, I will refer to the plastic as the retainer and the metal as the C-clip.] If you have the right tools, or can pretend you do, you can remove the black plastic retainer (shown at the beginning of the video) without destroying it. Without the retainer, the letter dials can get loose along the lock's main shaft, making it much too easy to 'pick' the lock. The retainer has two thin slots - one on the 'front' side toward the dials' code-readout position, and the other on the reverse side toward the 'back' of the lock. In factory assembly, the C-clip is slipped through the back slot and pushed onto the main shaft to hold the retainer in place, and the retainer then holds the dials in place. The plastic of the retainer can take some bending and prying during removal, but it will crack if you go too far. Try to keep as much of it intact as possible, especially the part that fits in the gap between the clip and the dials. From inside the plastic retainer's front slot, press on both prongs of the C-clip to push it out the back slot. If unsure which side is which (while it's covered by the plastic retainer), check the video to know the position of the clip relative to the main shaft's opening and which direction to push. It will require a good amount of pressure by hand and small but sturdy tools that can maintain position on both prongs at the same time or a single tool (such as a tiny flathead screwdriver or allen key) going back and forth from one prong to the other, but it's do-able. If you have (or can make) a very small hook tool, after pushing the clip a bit from the front side you can slip the hook in the back slot to pull on the back side the C-clip. Keep pushing or pulling on different parts of the clip to get it to move, little by little. When enough of the clip is exposed from the back slot, just pull it out with pliers. The 'top' (away from the dials) of the back side of the plastic retainer can be pried 'up' a little to give more access to the back/center of the C-clip but, as I mentioned before, it will crack if lifted too far. Gently squeeze it flat again after removal. After disassembly and reassembly to set your custom code, as shown in the video, put the plastic retainer back on the central shaft first after the letter dials. Make sure it's aligned correctly with the hole in the shaft, because it will fit backwards. Then push the C-clip through the back slot of the retainer toward the front until it clicks in place. Congratulations, your lock is now customized and complete. Also to Chris/Tangent Studios: Thanks for the video, it definitely helped to know what was going on inside before destroying my lock to find out! Most videos about Wordlocks are for the resettable-by-design version with the easy code setting function that gets exposed when it's open, but yours is for the version I have and showed me I wasn't stuck with the weird default code that I wouldn't remember! FYI: There's a typo in the title - 'present should be 'preset'. I don't know if UA-cam let's you edit this, but it might help.
It was too difficult for me, knowing my luck, I'll break the (piece) lock some how. I'll keep the same word, BEEE, THANKS ANYWAY.😷 BE SAFE OUT IN THE WORLD AND WASH YOUR HANDS....
Such a sloppy video instruction. Don't just willy-nilly damage the black plastic dial-retaining part. It's a spacer/cover and is the difference between a sloppy working lock and a smooth working lock. I hate it when people just disregard why the piece is there in the first place and ASSUME you can just damage it ...for no apparent reason. "if you didn't damage this piece like I did". Jeez man, what a tool!
That's a different model of Wordlock. This video is for Wordlocks that don't have that setting function and are NOT intended to be changed. You can tell the models apart from the outside by the shapes of the letter wheels and the silver parts to either side of the letter wheels. If the letter wheels have one significantly raised letter to help rotation and the silver parts are unevenly wide, it is probably the 'non-resettable' version in this video. If the letter wheels do not have the one raised letter and the silver parts are evenly wide all around their circumference, the lock is likely the resettable version with the resetting function hidden inside.
[The metal C-clip is called a retainer ring in the video. This is not an incorrect name but for lack of a different term for the black plastic dials-retaining part, I will refer to the plastic as the retainer and the metal as the C-clip.]
If you have the right tools, or can pretend you do, you can remove the black plastic retainer (shown at the beginning of the video) without destroying it. Without the retainer, the letter dials can get loose along the lock's main shaft, making it much too easy to 'pick' the lock.
The retainer has two thin slots - one on the 'front' side toward the dials' code-readout position, and the other on the reverse side toward the 'back' of the lock. In factory assembly, the C-clip is slipped through the back slot and pushed onto the main shaft to hold the retainer in place, and the retainer then holds the dials in place.
The plastic of the retainer can take some bending and prying during removal, but it will crack if you go too far. Try to keep as much of it intact as possible, especially the part that fits in the gap between the clip and the dials.
From inside the plastic retainer's front slot, press on both prongs of the C-clip to push it out the back slot. If unsure which side is which (while it's covered by the plastic retainer), check the video to know the position of the clip relative to the main shaft's opening and which direction to push.
It will require a good amount of pressure by hand and small but sturdy tools that can maintain position on both prongs at the same time or a single tool (such as a tiny flathead screwdriver or allen key) going back and forth from one prong to the other, but it's do-able. If you have (or can make) a very small hook tool, after pushing the clip a bit from the front side you can slip the hook in the back slot to pull on the back side the C-clip. Keep pushing or pulling on different parts of the clip to get it to move, little by little. When enough of the clip is exposed from the back slot, just pull it out with pliers.
The 'top' (away from the dials) of the back side of the plastic retainer can be pried 'up' a little to give more access to the back/center of the C-clip but, as I mentioned before, it will crack if lifted too far. Gently squeeze it flat again after removal.
After disassembly and reassembly to set your custom code, as shown in the video, put the plastic retainer back on the central shaft first after the letter dials. Make sure it's aligned correctly with the hole in the shaft, because it will fit backwards. Then push the C-clip through the back slot of the retainer toward the front until it clicks in place.
Congratulations, your lock is now customized and complete.
Also to Chris/Tangent Studios:
Thanks for the video, it definitely helped to know what was going on inside before destroying my lock to find out! Most videos about Wordlocks are for the resettable-by-design version with the easy code setting function that gets exposed when it's open, but yours is for the version I have and showed me I wasn't stuck with the weird default code that I wouldn't remember!
FYI: There's a typo in the title - 'present should be 'preset'. I don't know if UA-cam let's you edit this, but it might help.
Thanks for this video! Now I have a custom code word that is unique to all the others & one that I will remember!
You're awesome. 💕 thank you
You are welcome! Getting some more hacks filmed to help in the future. :)
Took some work, but, Thanks :)
can it still work if i lose the thing that you put on the top cause i did and it still works
It was too difficult for me, knowing my luck, I'll break the (piece) lock some how. I'll keep the same word, BEEE, THANKS ANYWAY.😷 BE SAFE OUT IN THE WORLD AND WASH YOUR HANDS....
Such a sloppy video instruction. Don't just willy-nilly damage the black plastic dial-retaining part. It's a spacer/cover and is the difference between a sloppy working lock and a smooth working lock.
I hate it when people just disregard why the piece is there in the first place and ASSUME you can just damage it ...for no apparent reason.
"if you didn't damage this piece like I did". Jeez man, what a tool!
All I did is twist the metal part set a new word twist the medal thing back to its original position and that was it
That's a different model of Wordlock. This video is for Wordlocks that don't have that setting function and are NOT intended to be changed.
You can tell the models apart from the outside by the shapes of the letter wheels and the silver parts to either side of the letter wheels. If the letter wheels have one significantly raised letter to help rotation and the silver parts are unevenly wide, it is probably the 'non-resettable' version in this video. If the letter wheels do not have the one raised letter and the silver parts are evenly wide all around their circumference, the lock is likely the resettable version with the resetting function hidden inside.
Vid is not working