Once you get into the world of production mechanical screw machine work and setups, you start to realize those guys are just as if not MORE creative than universal job shoppers. Great job Keith, keep on keepin on!
Keith, put the G2 (Coventry die head, here in UK) in the tail stock and let it run free, put the carriage (locked) where you want the thread to stop. When it bumps the carriage it releases. Easy repeatable every time. The neatest squarest thread you will ever produce.
@@KeithFenner Die head has to be clamped to the tail stock, don't use the Morse taper. Your stop can be on the cross slide, so you wind it in, pull the stock to it, wind it back and away you go. I have six sizes of these die heads and use them all the time, quick efficient, REPEATABLE and a great finished thread.
Great video Keith and thanks for the memories. When I was an apprentice I worked a ward capstan lathe turning out special aircraft bolts. I used a Coventry die head that is very similar to yours, they're a great piece of kit. Quick and repeatable. Regards from Northern Ireland.
That is the first time I have seen a thread box like that used in the tool post, all ways before seen and used them in a turret type tail stock. For that operation, 3 tools, a stop to set length, a tipped bevel cutter for the chamfer and then the thread box.
Keith, Just found your website, I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Watched the shaft straightening and the narration is extremely clear and helped me see a couple of things I had done not as well in the past. Love the G2 Threader. First time I have seen one in action. Will have to add that to my list of tools to add to the shop. Thank you for being a patriot, God Bless America!
I was looking to see if someone would mention that. I have only used the English makes but they have a very similar arrangement but it takes waaay longer to change the chasers.
Because of this video, I ran across 2 of these heads in an auction stuck in a box with a hairdryer and a skillet of all things and I knew what they where. The one appears to be a different style with no handle but the other is very similar to yours with a set of 1/2 13 dies in it! Paid 12$ for the lot. Appears that was a steal! Always enjoy the vids!
Keith, it is good to see you getting value for all the work you put into reconditioning your small lathe. I have one the same and enjoy using it. I still need to fit the DRO and taper turning jig.
Another beauty Keith, thanks. The complex projects are interesting these simple ones show the care that you take to get it right and as the client wants.
Because of the taper of the thread chaser you must cut the threads longer to give you a true length of straight thread, to account for the taper at the bottom.
I have guys whine about the cost of these, but considering you can run 20 threads with one of these in the time it takes to single point, (Fewer on a fast threading lathe like a hardinge, but still a lot more), it pretty easily pays for itself even in a single small job. CNC threading is a hundred times faster than a human, but these attachments are faster still, so they are pretty common there too.
In the '70's I ran a No.3 W&S turret lathe in a small shop in Ohio where I ran thousands of threaded part with this type of threading attachment , the release/ rough -finish lever lets you run a rough pass then a finish pass when cutting hard or tough materiel & you can simply close the head & catch the lead with the spindle turning just keep up with it . I hope this helps . B. Fox , retired
Die box that takes me back to an engineering firm I worked at in the early 2000s we made industrial pneumatic cylinders up to 32 inch bore and all the tie rods were made on a capstan lathe with a die box.
Used a turret lathe with a air operated chuck to make lead screws for vises in 1969 at East Tenn. State University. Brought back some good memories! Still got the vise.
Well engineered device, can't beat proven equipment, very few CNC good do it quicker. As an apprentice, I was amazed how quick the Ward and Herbert capstan lathes UK) could manufacture parts, still used world wide today, not the prettiest of machines, ( I know of a few instances where the bosses didn't want capstan lathes in the shop because of this) but apart from automatics, nothing can touch them for versatility and speed. Great vlog, thanks for sharing. Regards John.
Another option to consider on your chuck cart, would be a small jib crane for lifting larger chucks. Maybe more useful on your larger lathe if you were to build cart for it's chucks.
Did this on a South Bend Turret Lathe at the start of my apprenticeship at Beth Steel at Baltimore in 1969. It reminded me of my dad cutting pipe threads by hand.
No. 2 Herbert... that takes me back! I was the CPU substitute for production work on one of those for a while... I'd actually like to find one for my back shed... just for the nostalgia!
No disrespect Keith but your making a meal out of this. IMO it’s much easier to put the Coventry die head in the tail stock, allow the tailstock to float loose. Use the cross slide locked in place as a thread length stop and also to hold a chamfer tool. A quickly made depth stop setup (just a piece of stock cut to length) for setting the position of the change of each rod and your away with a much quicker repeatable setup with less hassle. I’ve made hundreds of water pump studs in brass this way. The little lever on the back is for a first and second pass setup. Remember, these threading heads were originally designed for capstan lathes. Loved the video none the less 👍
keith i am out here in the caribbean ,Trinidad .Watch you all the time, you are an inspiration .You have taught me a lot, I also own a small shop ,need to own a Goe die soon ,keep up the good work.all the best for the future .
Great tool to have in the shop. Wish I had one in mine. I’ve used those die heads and thread rollers when I worked in a production shop. Fastest two ways to make long threaded parts, IMO. Nice job Keith!
We use one similar to that at my work. We mak 5/16-18 adjustment screws for a customer that are like 5" long with a run of typically like 150-200 pcs. They used to take a week single point threading them and checking every one since as soon as the cutter got just a little bit dull it would belly the thread out of spec in the middle. Using the automatic head we can do the same amount in 2 days no problem. You can still have issues with them though when the chasers start to get dull you will start to get a taper in the thread and also watch for teeth chipping on the chasers.
This device was commonly called the Coventry die head as it was invented and used in Coventry England, mainly during and after the war as a very quick threading methodology.
When you first got that lathe, I commented that I had one exactly like it and had sold it because I wanted something bigger. It had the collet closer and everything. It was a different brand, made in Taiwan. I'm regretting selling it now because of the collet closer attachment, I really didn't have the space for another lathe at the time. My buddy bought it and he uses it all the time in his press shop. He's got 4 50 ton presses, He makes quality metal float balls for automatic fill valves in fluid tanks. That's his bread and butter, but also makes other press drawn metal parts.
Thanks I always had doubts about threading boxes in general, but you have just proved me wrong. The only way you could make that easier would be to have it in a turret attachment then you would just have to lean on the advance lever.
I used a geometric collapsible tap on a W&S 2AC back in the 90's. Never used a quick die head like this one though. That old tooling sure comes in handy at times.
Those heads usually pull out, so you just need to set a carriage stop and run the apron up to the carriage stop and the head will continue until it pulls out and trips.
Rather than hand feeding the carriage, could you set it to feed the thread pitch you are cutting as with single point threading and then just disengage the feed to trip the cutting head out of engagement?
Sunday Night viewing for me. Even though it was a long day in the shop today and eating dinner after everyone has gone to bed, LOL. Best time to watch NO interruptions.
Hi Keith been watching your channel and expertise for a long time and enjoying every video.That G2 or geometric threader is a Coventry die box and you can set the depth of thread and length cut. Loved your tuna fishing trip. Kind regards Nev
I run a pipe threader at work every once in a while, very similar to what you are doing here. Rigid makes a oil pump with a catch bucket that recycles the oil and is the best way to go. Maybe if you do more of this you might pick one up.
That gadget has its uses like when you are threading down to where the rod diameter increases. But in this case, it would make more send just to use a regular die and manually stopped when you got your thread length and reverse out. The back out would "polish" the thread.
Those Geometric heads do work the treat! I have been wanting to get into them but they do tend to be pretty pricey to get all up and running for a bunch of various thread sizes.
I made one of those gizmos to fit into the tail stock but just used the puck dies so flip it into reverse when u reach uurr depth. Quick n easy just make sure the tailstock is atleast on the centre mark Good content
For a couple years, I've been using a gel type cutting 'fluid', (in a vet syringe), for threading to reduce the cutting oil mess. A bit in the flutes of a tap, and line on a shaft for externals does the trick. The head reminds me a bit of my ancient pipe threader and a bit of my auto-reversing tapper! LOL
Always enjoy watching you work. We used these on Hardinge machines a lot but usually always with rough cuts for a close final thread. Should be able to “feed” a second cut without locating on the existing thread - but a chucker carriage had a better (than engine lathe) feel for these.
Used to do a lot of threaded components on a lathe with a roller box to get rolled threads next step up from the Coventry die head if you ever get the opportunity
If you take a Rigid 300 pipe threader and put bolt thread dies in it, you can rock and roll too. Joe. 20 ft long draw bolts to plumb steel beam buildings.
The Geometric die head and their tapping heads are legends. Set up in a turret lathe there are amazingly productive. The You Tube channel, Museum of Our Industrial History out in Greenfield Ma has some Geometric factory videos that are interesting. Abom did a video on using a Geometric die head several years ago that might be helpful. cheers
Yeah I used their collapsible tap head on a Warner & Swasey 2AC chucker. My younger machinist friends thought I was bs'ing them when I told them their was such a thing.. lol
If u look on the back by that small u call release lever there's a + and - so u can set close on the minus then finish on the plus if u move that lever u will see the die head adjust ..good way to do lots of threading tho
mount your die head in the TAILSTOCK QUILL ..the die head will pull the tailstock onto the part...set the carriage in a position where it will serve as a stop when the tailstock comes into contact with the carriage ..leave the tailstock LOOSE on the bed ...
Thanks but shortly after that way back then video we figured out a system that works without fail each time we set it up now! It is a great piece of tooling and saves a lot of time.
Great result on the G2. You keep getting these production jobs you'll have to get a turret post for a stop like Randy Richard. Ah, yes you have a readout.
These are great. Fine tunable and make a long job really enjoyable. They are relatively forgiving with set up as well. Just cock and go. Mine will release when hitting a positive stop on my ways as will this unit. Fortunately my old Chez lathe can have the apron disengage from the feedworks. The only lathe I have ever seen that would do that. You now have a new best friend eh. Oil never breaks down. It just gets dirty. Most can settle out contaminants by just sitting or with a magnet in the case of steels.
thanks for the video keith nice equipment addition and imho far superior way of delivering merchandise notifications sorry gvt pension dosnt allow for purchases in my budget
Thanks for the excellent introduction to geometric die heads. As a skilled machinist, I wonder why you didn't set the head up in the tailstock to allow the thread pitch to automatically feed the thread to desired length?
Damn... I traded a head and dies for a broach set....hmmm, doubtful I would have a need for thread production which I could single point was my thought, no other options for broaching
Hi Keith good little bread & butter job that little die head is good unit easy to adjustment. I used to use a Coventry die head on Ward 7a lathe for repetition jobs and sharpened the dies on tool& cutter grinder. I think CNC have replaced these methods. .... hard to teach &old machinist new tricks😀 cheers Ian in oz
GREAT VIDEO OF USING A DIE HEAD FOR A CHANGE IN PACE. MOST WOULD BE DOING THE SINGLE POINT ON THE LATHE. WONDER IF IT WOULD WORK FOR A FINE THREAD THIS WAY OR WOULD THE PRESSURE AND PACE YOU MUST KEEP ON THE CARRIAGE BE AN ISSUE?
Once you get into the world of production mechanical screw machine work and setups, you start to realize those guys are just as if not MORE creative than universal job shoppers. Great job Keith, keep on keepin on!
Keith, put the G2 (Coventry die head, here in UK) in the tail stock and let it run free, put the carriage (locked) where you want the thread to stop. When it bumps the carriage it releases. Easy repeatable every time. The neatest squarest thread you will ever produce.
Great comment, That was what I had in mind, less prep to get this short run done. ;{)
Nice trick!
You do need a repeatable workpiece stop too then though. (so you always clamp in the same place)
@@hydrusje Set your stop on the cross slide then you can wind it in and out when required.
@@KeithFenner Die head has to be clamped to the tail stock, don't use the Morse taper. Your stop can be on the cross slide, so you wind it in, pull the stock to it, wind it back and away you go. I have six sizes of these die heads and use them all the time, quick efficient, REPEATABLE and a great finished thread.
Great video Keith and thanks for the memories. When I was an apprentice I worked a ward capstan lathe turning out special aircraft bolts. I used a Coventry die head that is very similar to yours, they're a great piece of kit. Quick and repeatable.
Regards from Northern Ireland.
That is the first time I have seen a thread box like that used in the tool post, all ways before seen and used them in a turret type tail stock.
For that operation, 3 tools, a stop to set length, a tipped bevel cutter for the chamfer and then the thread box.
Keith, Just found your website, I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Watched the shaft straightening and the narration is extremely clear and helped me see a couple of things I had done not as well in the past. Love the G2 Threader. First time I have seen one in action. Will have to add that to my list of tools to add to the shop.
Thank you for being a patriot, God Bless America!
The little handle is the roughing and finishing adjustment one way for roughing the other for finishing
I noticed the different positions and motion during my use of it and found that to be the case. Thanks for the comment. ;{)
I was looking to see if someone would mention that. I have only used the English makes but they have a very similar arrangement but it takes waaay longer to change the chasers.
Enjoyed seeing production work. Thanks for bring us along and introducing us to a now type of threading tool....!
I used to run a threading box on an old capstan lathe many years ago. The forerunner to the CNC world.
Because of this video, I ran across 2 of these heads in an auction stuck in a box with a hairdryer and a skillet of all things and I knew what they where. The one appears to be a different style with no handle but the other is very similar to yours with a set of 1/2 13 dies in it! Paid 12$ for the lot. Appears that was a steal! Always enjoy the vids!
Keith, it is good to see you getting value for all the work you put into reconditioning your small lathe.
I have one the same and enjoy using it. I still need to fit the DRO and taper turning jig.
Another beauty Keith, thanks. The complex projects are interesting these simple ones show the care that you take to get it right and as the client wants.
Because of the taper of the thread chaser you must cut the threads longer to give you a true length of straight thread, to account for the taper at the bottom.
I have guys whine about the cost of these, but considering you can run 20 threads with one of these in the time it takes to single point, (Fewer on a fast threading lathe like a hardinge, but still a lot more), it pretty easily pays for itself even in a single small job. CNC threading is a hundred times faster than a human, but these attachments are faster still, so they are pretty common there too.
Pretty slick! Definitely a production tool for repeat parts. The feature for stopping the cutter is innovative! Thanks for taking us along.
In the '70's I ran a No.3 W&S turret lathe in a small shop in Ohio where I ran thousands of threaded part with this type of threading attachment , the release/ rough -finish lever lets you run a rough pass then a finish pass when cutting hard or tough materiel & you can simply close the head & catch the lead with the spindle turning just keep up with it . I hope this helps . B. Fox , retired
Thank You! Cheers ;{)
I did the same, only in Indiana. Turret lathes, 70's all that.
Die box that takes me back to an engineering firm I worked at in the early 2000s we made industrial pneumatic cylinders up to 32 inch bore and all the tie rods were made on a capstan lathe with a die box.
Used a turret lathe with a air operated chuck to make lead screws for vises in 1969 at East Tenn. State University. Brought back some good memories! Still got the vise.
Well engineered device, can't beat proven equipment, very few CNC good do it quicker. As an apprentice, I was amazed how quick the Ward and Herbert capstan lathes UK) could manufacture parts, still used world wide today, not the prettiest of machines, ( I know of a few instances where the bosses didn't want capstan lathes in the shop because of this) but apart from automatics, nothing can touch them for versatility and speed.
Great vlog, thanks for sharing.
Regards John.
Another option to consider on your chuck cart, would be a small jib crane for lifting larger chucks. Maybe more useful on your larger lathe if you were to build cart for it's chucks.
Your crew who spoke the pledge- future Great Americans!
Did this on a South Bend Turret Lathe at the start of my apprenticeship at Beth Steel at Baltimore in 1969. It reminded me of my dad cutting pipe threads by hand.
Used one making thousands pintles for swivel wheels. Herbert 2s turret lathe. The dies lasted for about a year . 😁
No. 2 Herbert... that takes me back! I was the CPU substitute for production work on one of those for a while... I'd actually like to find one for my back shed... just for the nostalgia!
No disrespect Keith but your making a meal out of this. IMO it’s much easier to put the Coventry die head in the tail stock, allow the tailstock to float loose. Use the cross slide locked in place as a thread length stop and also to hold a chamfer tool. A quickly made depth stop setup (just a piece of stock cut to length) for setting the position of the change of each rod and your away with a much quicker repeatable setup with less hassle. I’ve made hundreds of water pump studs in brass this way. The little lever on the back is for a first and second pass setup. Remember, these threading heads were originally designed for capstan lathes. Loved the video none the less 👍
The tail stock on the Rutland is to light in my opinion, to handle the torque and slide. ;{)
Difference between a "production" brain and a "jobbing" shop aye Steve ?
keith i am out here in the caribbean ,Trinidad .Watch you all the time, you are an inspiration .You have taught me a lot, I also own a small shop ,need to own a Goe die soon ,keep up the good work.all the best for the future .
Great tool to have in the shop. Wish I had one in mine. I’ve used those die heads and thread rollers when I worked in a production shop. Fastest two ways to make long threaded parts, IMO. Nice job Keith!
We use one similar to that at my work. We mak 5/16-18 adjustment screws for a customer that are like 5" long with a run of typically like 150-200 pcs. They used to take a week single point threading them and checking every one since as soon as the cutter got just a little bit dull it would belly the thread out of spec in the middle. Using the automatic head we can do the same amount in 2 days no problem. You can still have issues with them though when the chasers start to get dull you will start to get a taper in the thread and also watch for teeth chipping on the chasers.
This device was commonly called the Coventry die head as it was invented and used in Coventry England, mainly during and after the war as a very quick threading methodology.
couldn't you set the feed on the lathe? My favorite part of the pledge is the one kid saying "amen" at the end!
When you first got that lathe, I commented that I had one exactly like it and had sold it because I wanted something bigger. It had the collet closer and everything. It was a different brand, made in Taiwan. I'm regretting selling it now because of the collet closer attachment, I really didn't have the space for another lathe at the time. My buddy bought it and he uses it all the time in his press shop. He's got 4 50 ton presses, He makes quality metal float balls for automatic fill valves in fluid tanks. That's his bread and butter, but also makes other press drawn metal parts.
those dear little kids bless them well done .... great work there pard
Cool threader, I havent seen one of those before.. thanks for showing us !
Thanks I always had doubts about threading boxes in general, but you have just proved me wrong. The only way you could make that easier would be to have it in a turret attachment then you would just have to lean on the advance lever.
Happy 10-10-2020 Keith, thanks for the show. Now time to watch it.
Nice little production run for a man that doesn’t like production runs thanks again Keith For a great video
You got that right!
I used a geometric collapsible tap on a W&S 2AC back in the 90's. Never used a quick die head like this one though. That old tooling sure comes in handy at times.
Those heads usually pull out, so you just need to set a carriage stop and run the apron up to the carriage stop and the head will continue until it pulls out and trips.
Rather than hand feeding the carriage, could you set it to feed the thread pitch you are cutting as with single point threading and then just disengage the feed to trip the cutting head out of engagement?
Exactly what I was thinking
Me too
It would also help if you ever had to pick up that thread again I would think.
That is the factory recommendation for the British Coventry die heads .
Just what I was thinking.
Glad the pledge is back.
Just wanted to wish you the best with the new shop.
Sdeery
Thanks 👍
That threader is cool! Thanks for sharing.
Sunday Night viewing for me.
Even though it was a long day in the shop today and eating dinner after everyone has gone to bed, LOL.
Best time to watch NO interruptions.
Hi Keith been watching your channel and expertise for a long time and enjoying every video.That G2 or geometric threader is a Coventry die box and you can set the depth of thread and length cut. Loved your tuna fishing trip. Kind regards Nev
I love that pledge of allegiance. Thanks 👍
Me too!
THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed.
Glad you enjoyed it
I run a pipe threader at work every once in a while, very similar to what you are doing here. Rigid makes a oil pump with a catch bucket that recycles the oil and is the best way to go. Maybe if you do more of this you might pick one up.
I got a whole collection of Geometric heads, from the little 5/16 cap ones all the way up to 2". Worth their weight in Gold,
That gadget has its uses like when you are threading down to where the rod diameter increases. But in this case, it would make more send just to use a regular die and manually stopped when you got your thread length and reverse out. The back out would "polish" the thread.
Those Geometric heads do work the treat! I have been wanting to get into them but they do tend to be pretty pricey to get all up and running for a bunch of various thread sizes.
Hi Keith,
The threader is a really cool bit of kit... hopefully your viewers will send in some more inserts so we can see it again.
Take care
Paul,,
Fingers crossed!
I have been looking at these heads for a while and wondered if they could be used on the carriage. Thanks for showing it can be done.
Great video. I picked up two of your caps, and they've quickly become my favorite. They are awesome caps!
Glad you like them!
@@KeithFenner I do indeed.
I made one of those gizmos to fit into the tail stock but just used the puck dies so flip it into reverse when u reach uurr depth. Quick n easy just make sure the tailstock is atleast on the centre mark
Good content
What an ingenious device!
Coventry die head in my book, used them on capstan lathes!
For a couple years, I've been using a gel type cutting 'fluid', (in a vet syringe), for threading to reduce the cutting oil mess. A bit in the flutes of a tap, and line on a shaft for externals does the trick.
The head reminds me a bit of my ancient pipe threader and a bit of my auto-reversing tapper! LOL
That worked out slick!! Really handy tool have, I can think of alot of things you'll use it for..
Now you are a screw machine shop! Love that tool.
and you can re-sharpen the lead on your surface grinder
I used one of them in the 70's on a screw machine for production work.
Always enjoy watching you work. We used these on Hardinge machines a lot but usually always with rough cuts for a close final thread. Should be able to “feed” a second cut without locating on the existing thread - but a chucker carriage had a better (than engine lathe) feel for these.
Thanks 👍
I always thought they were for mounting in the tailstock so you had the free running of it never though about using a boring bar holder.
They're for mounting in a turret lathe...
@@glennmoreland6457 to be honest forgot about them
Used to do a lot of threaded components on a lathe with a roller box to get rolled threads next step up from the Coventry die head if you ever get the opportunity
If you take a Rigid 300 pipe threader and put bolt thread dies in it, you can rock and roll too. Joe. 20 ft long draw bolts to plumb steel beam buildings.
Masterclass! Thank you Keith for a very interesting video.
Regards
Gareth
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice new tool for your shop
very very good mr fenner..thanks for your time.
You are very welcome
WOW it was so quiet....you must have real 3phase at last.. good units hose G2s, well learnt.
The Geometric die head and their tapping heads are legends. Set up in a turret lathe there are amazingly productive. The You Tube channel, Museum of Our Industrial History out in Greenfield Ma has some Geometric factory videos that are interesting. Abom did a video on using a Geometric die head several years ago that might be helpful. cheers
LOL ;{)
@@KeithFenner I second that LOL. 4 Jaw belt anyone?
Yeah I used their collapsible tap head on a Warner & Swasey 2AC chucker.
My younger machinist friends thought I was bs'ing them when I told them their was such a thing.. lol
I have found it is always helpful to scotchbright across the tops of the threads.
If you used proper threads, Whitworth, you don't have to. 😇
That threader is awesome.
Clever little tool Keith, Thanks for the video . Can you get a quieter air gun the dog shoots of the chair when it goes off LOL
The very tool for the job! Nice.
Yes indeed!
If u look on the back by that small u call release lever there's a + and - so u can set close on the minus then finish on the plus if u move that lever u will see the die head adjust ..good way to do lots of threading tho
they were made to use on a capston lathe
mount your die head in the TAILSTOCK QUILL ..the die head will pull the tailstock onto the part...set the carriage in a position where it will serve as a stop when the tailstock comes into contact with the carriage ..leave the tailstock LOOSE on the bed ...
Thanks but shortly after that way back then video we figured out a system that works without fail each time we set it up now! It is a great piece of tooling and saves a lot of time.
Great result on the G2. You keep getting these production jobs you'll have to get a turret post for a stop like Randy Richard. Ah, yes you have a readout.
No I wouldn't want to take Randy's work away from him! LOL ;{)
These are great. Fine tunable and make a long job really enjoyable. They are relatively forgiving with set up as well. Just cock and go. Mine will release when hitting a positive stop on my ways as will this unit. Fortunately my old Chez lathe can have the apron disengage from the feedworks. The only lathe I have ever seen that would do that. You now have a new best friend eh. Oil never breaks down. It just gets dirty. Most can settle out contaminants by just sitting or with a magnet in the case of steels.
Enjoyed...Nice hookup from Stan !!
Keith, That is a really nice tool. Great, more Ebay hunting.
The rutland is the perfect size machine for this type of work
A. Savage made one out of plyweed. I would suggest Metal insteaqd, alse use "tupperware type containers as dustcovers.
That is a great tool, thanks for sharing.
Awesome!!!!!! I’ll watch this after work!!!!!!
thanks for the video keith nice equipment addition and imho far superior way of delivering merchandise notifications sorry gvt pension dosnt allow for purchases in my budget
No worries
Thanks for the excellent introduction to geometric die heads. As a skilled machinist, I wonder why you didn't set the head up in the tailstock to allow the thread pitch to automatically feed the thread to desired length?
that attachment is awesome
Damn... I traded a head and dies for a broach set....hmmm, doubtful I would have a need for thread production which I could single point was my thought, no other options for broaching
Hi Keith good little bread & butter job that little die head is good unit easy to adjustment. I used to use a Coventry die head on Ward 7a lathe for repetition jobs and sharpened the dies on tool& cutter grinder. I think CNC have replaced these methods. .... hard to teach &old machinist new tricks😀 cheers Ian in oz
Yes we used to use Coventry die heads on capstone lathe's and engine lathe's fantastic tool.
Food contact material with lead in it ? SS316L instead?
Always something new to learn.👍
Glad to hear that!
I have enjoyed your videos thank you and happy holidays to you
Keith could you use a co ax indicator to align the headstock and boring bar holder?
Just curious. As usual a great video!
Eric
Yes you can!
I’ve used one in a swiss lathe to cut 72 TPI about 1-1/2” long, lighting fast all day long
but expensive tool.
Nice!
My Ridgid 300 with rod dies makes quick work of this.
Good morning Keith.
Cheers, got my coffee ;{)
That thing is awesome!
That is avery neat little tool. Which lathe are you using?
GREAT VIDEO OF USING A DIE HEAD FOR A CHANGE IN PACE. MOST WOULD BE DOING THE SINGLE POINT ON THE LATHE. WONDER IF IT WOULD WORK FOR A FINE THREAD THIS WAY OR WOULD THE PRESSURE AND PACE YOU MUST KEEP ON THE CARRIAGE BE AN ISSUE?
Why not set the carriage on power feed for 13tpi and just engage/disengage rather than manually moving the carriage?
Quick addition for your next run ..
A simple setting gauge for stickout from the collet and a carriage stop on your bedway.
Just sayin.