Thanks peter for great video i used a screw in metal umbrella mount for portable i can be hard work to get it in the ground sometimes but handy to errect antenna in the field
Peter, I have, literally set hundreds of fence posts here in Colorado where it very dry. We simply pour in 4 or 5 inches of pre-mix concrete around the post dry and then tamp in down with a tamping rod. Then layer in concrete and tamp to ground level or slightly lower if you wish to hide the concrete with cover soil. No need for water. It will set overnight. This happens here where we only get 10 inches of rain a year. In your damper climate I should think there would be no problem at all. As for durability, I have posts that have been in the ground for over 20 years and are still immovable.
If you have a wall or post available then what i do is use rubber lined munsen rings / pipe clips readily available in diy stores. I have fixed a 4x2 piece of timber to my garage wall and then screwed the pipe clips in place to support the pole. The rubber protects the fiberglass and its very secure with 2 or 3 fittings. They come in various diameters so you easily find the one you need. 73s G8TQO
The word for the tings you screw into the ground is an augur. Funny this video I've been away from UA-cam for a couple months but just a week before your video I ordered a 12m spider pole looking to raise my EFHW. It'll be in a 2" PVC pipe though because it's elevation will be 4m in the air already.
I use T-posts, which are quite cheap here in the states. I hammer the post into the ground with a T-post driver, then attach an appropriately-sized piece of PVC pipe to the post with straps or large hose clamps. Just drop the fiberglass pole into the PVC pipe and you're done. You can use two or three posts if you are concerned about wind load, but I've never had a problem with a single post.
I found the large bottom part would fit into a bit of plastic guttering down pipe. It was a bit loose I think, so I wedged it with a bit of wood . Think I went over the top with the concrete, dug a big square hole. They are tough, I must order a second one from you shortly. Very enjoyable videos. Thanks.
Dig hole half the length of main spiderbeam mast deep and two times the diameter at least. Wrap spiderbeam main section in a couple wraps of plastic wrap and spray with cooking spray. Level and Concrete pole in ground you prepared. When dry pull out mast and remove plastic wrap from tube. All done 👍 --oh and also maybe add some pea sized gravel in bottom of whole you prepared for water drainage before Concrete step. -Also remember to remove bottom rubber cap if your spiderbeam is the 12m + HD or XHD ones. On the 10m masts I believe they all have glued on bottoms with cap that unscrew. You can get creative and cut off those to make it all just tube which is same diameter all the way.
I very much appreciate your knowledge and experience. I am a newbie ham from Texas and my Spiderbeam 12 meter should be arriving today. I initially plan to install a 40 - 10 meter EFHW on a sloper next to my home. I want to have the mast installed much like yours. Since we have (at times) high winds, do you think that adding a 2x4 into the hole next to your adapter plate and coming up about one base height (then securing with some sort of wraps) would be sturdy enough to hold? Best Regards, Jim
Carbon fibre is an RF attenuator. However for amateur HF use on a pole it has very little effect. I use a Carbon 60 mast from sotabeams for end fed portable antennas without any issues.
@watersstanton I just use it for temporary set ups with my (tr)uSDX high band rig (DL2MAN) just tried it on 10 meters. Been heard over most of Europe checked on reverse beacon EFHW 49/1 . 2 to 3 watts. G4vdx 👍
I've rented electric augers before to make holes. Saves my back. Thank you for giving back and sharing.
Glad to help
Thanks peter for great video i used a screw in metal umbrella mount for portable i can be hard work to get it in the ground sometimes but handy to errect antenna in the field
Peter, I have, literally set hundreds of fence posts here in Colorado where it very dry. We simply pour in 4 or 5 inches of pre-mix concrete around the post dry and then tamp in down with a tamping rod. Then layer in concrete and tamp to ground level or slightly lower if you wish to hide the concrete with cover soil. No need for water. It will set overnight. This happens here where we only get 10 inches of rain a year. In your damper climate I should think there would be no problem at all. As for durability, I have posts that have been in the ground for over 20 years and are still immovable.
Hundreds of posts using dry pour... Yikes! Hopefully they're just for a fence and nothing structural or load-bearing.
@@jamess1787 just fencing, but high tensile.
If you have a wall or post available then what i do is use rubber lined munsen rings / pipe clips readily available in diy stores. I have fixed a 4x2 piece of timber to my garage wall and then screwed the pipe clips in place to support the pole. The rubber protects the fiberglass and its very secure with 2 or 3 fittings. They come in various diameters so you easily find the one you need. 73s G8TQO
The word for the tings you screw into the ground is an augur. Funny this video I've been away from UA-cam for a couple months but just a week before your video I ordered a 12m spider pole looking to raise my EFHW. It'll be in a 2" PVC pipe though because it's elevation will be 4m in the air already.
Great choice
What a good idea 👍
I use T-posts, which are quite cheap here in the states. I hammer the post into the ground with a T-post driver, then attach an appropriately-sized piece of PVC pipe to the post with straps or large hose clamps. Just drop the fiberglass pole into the PVC pipe and you're done. You can use two or three posts if you are concerned about wind load, but I've never had a problem with a single post.
I found the large bottom part would fit into a bit of plastic guttering down pipe. It was a bit loose I think, so I wedged it with a bit of wood .
Think I went over the top with the concrete, dug a big square hole. They are tough, I must order a second one from you shortly. Very enjoyable videos. Thanks.
You can never have too much concrete.
Always nice to see another vertical going up hi. Good luck.
Your influence has travelled all around the world lol. Mine is working excellent regularly getting from ZL to UK now. 73 Steve ZL1YX
How do you hold up the individual fiberglass sections long term?
Dig hole half the length of main spiderbeam mast deep and two times the diameter at least.
Wrap spiderbeam main section in a couple wraps of plastic wrap and spray with cooking spray.
Level and Concrete pole in ground you prepared.
When dry pull out mast and remove plastic wrap from tube.
All done 👍
--oh and also maybe add some pea sized gravel in bottom of whole you prepared for water drainage before Concrete step.
-Also remember to remove bottom rubber cap if your spiderbeam is the 12m + HD or XHD ones.
On the 10m masts I believe they all have glued on bottoms with cap that unscrew.
You can get creative and cut off those to make it all just tube which is same diameter all the way.
Thank You for your suggestion. When done like this, how easy does the mast come out? Any other issues that come up?
@jimmcdowell33 Only issue is the concrete will obviously scuff up the outside of shiny fiberglass when sliding in and out.
I have another one that is six Yeats in the ground. Still going string.
Good idea for mounting pole. I will need to look for similar items here in the states to do the same
Amazon.
I very much appreciate your knowledge and experience. I am a newbie ham from Texas and my Spiderbeam 12 meter should be arriving today. I initially plan to install a 40 - 10 meter EFHW on a sloper next to my home. I want to have the mast installed much like yours. Since we have (at times) high winds, do you think that adding a 2x4 into the hole next to your adapter plate and coming up about one base height (then securing with some sort of wraps) would be sturdy enough to hold?
Best Regards,
Jim
Hi Jim, the idea of extra support is a good idea but these masts are tough.
Lots of good feedback from your channel. I really appreciate your advice.
Jim
Someone in another ham video stated that a carbon fiber pole used to prop up an antenna would effect it's performance! Could you expand on that?
Carbon fibre is an RF attenuator. However for amateur HF use on a pole it has very little effect. I use a Carbon 60 mast from sotabeams for end fed portable antennas without any issues.
Quite simply it is conductive so will detune the antenna.
the screw in thingy is an auger", cheers.
Thanks
Capital Idea!
You might want to put navel jelly on that thin metal you have in the ground. I don't think it will last long.
Naval jelly? Sounds like a bad stomach infection.
Rust inhibitor, kj7tbr
Anti siez on the pipe section
You bodger😁. I'd have used a spirit level.
Plumb line even better.
Jeez, difficult to keep your head from moving while talking😂😂😂😂
I just knock an half inch bar into the ground a couple of feet long and put the bottom of the mast over it.
Yes will work but may not be stable enough for lateral loading.
@watersstanton
I just use it for temporary set ups with my (tr)uSDX high band rig (DL2MAN) just tried it on 10 meters.
Been heard over most of Europe checked on reverse beacon EFHW 49/1 . 2 to 3 watts.
G4vdx 👍
Thanks for the useful ‘How To’ 👍