Spyderco Manix 2 XL: Replacing the Bearing Cage
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- The Manix family of folders from Spyderco are a bit fiddly and difficult to deal with on the inside. I show the best way I've come up with to replace the ball bearing cage (With a Flytanium titanium cage for example).
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great tutorial on replacing and upgrading the ball bearing lock cage. I've never had a plastic version break and I'm satisfied with the stock action, But I do understand why people swap them out. Thanks for video
Very useful! Thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial. It enabled me to install a new ball cage with no problems.
WOW! Her voice is DEEP! Good info, thanks ma’am 👍🏻
I’m going to be installing a titanium ball cage on my Manix 2XL later tonight. Thanks for the tutorial.
I think that I’m going to do it a bit differently and secure the backspacer with the screw on the clip side of the knife before placing the scale and liner back into place.
Hope the transplant went well for you
@@JerryLoffelbein It went very well, thank you. That knife is now my favorite for everyday carry. 🙂
Thanks helps me see that the XL LOCKUP is same as the REGULAR Manix 2. Recently did 3 of MY Manix 2 (S30V M390 S110) knives with a ceramic ball and lower powered spring. Now ALL 3 JUST like my Bench Made Griptillian - and I loved that LOCK! Went to Ebay for the kits - Oregon...Fun THING is every KNIFE blade has a month and year date on it...
The way you were shown HERE is really similar to the REGULAR MANIX 2 when switch out a part in the BALL CAGE... Thanks JERRY...
I HIT all my KNIFE SCREWS with 10 seconds from my HEAT GUN to KILL the effect of the LOCKTIGHT in almost every screw... A really good set of TORX helps too... BTW
Thanks for the clip, just got a factory 2nd Manix 2 XL in black CPM S30V, Flytanium brass scales and lock cage, ceramic ball, medium tension spring, and MXG deep-carry clip. Going to swap everything but the scales shortly - the scales will wait until I've modded them, which won't happen until I've gotten comfortable enough with files and rotary bits on brass. I have a slab of 12"x2"x1/8" brass to play with first! Might be file-working the spine of the blade later to further personalize it, and to hide the factory 2nd mark on it.
Success, never even had the spring or ball bearing shoot across the room! The medium tension spring didn't feel strong enough - swapped the original back in - so just a ceramic ball inside the new brass cage (so far)... Oh, and the MXG clip. Worked out like a charm, using the video as a guide!
Great video I thought you was going to go all Buffalo Bob on me at the end if you ever seen silence of the lamb you know what I’m talking about 😂
Its buffalo bill
Very good video,BUT THOSE NAILS are creepy
☠️
Thank you fur walking me thru this
This made it way easy, I had it in so quick! I still have some weirdness that I assumed was plastic but it seems like the cage is catching on something and clicks before engaging. Drives me nuts!
I want to say my original in S30V had something like that a year or so after purchasing it, but it wore down with time. It's possible that the cage is catching on a burr or something which would probably be pretty easy to sort out with a small ceramic or diamond abrasive.
Another thought would be that the spring is slightly bending to one side when you pull back on the cage that causes it to bind a little bit. I'm a little less sure on how to deal with that problem if turning the spring a little bit doesn't solve it though.
After inspecting closer I think the spring is catching, when my new scales come I'm going to try and sort it out I appreciate the comment though you were dead on! I have some new stuff coming from the factory second sale spyderco is having so pretty excited for all that!
Yes I have the same clicking noise when open my St Nick's 4v XL Manix. Do you find out why that happened?
Helpful video! Thank you!
Excellent. Thanks.
I think that it’s worth pointing out that Spyderco uses a Chicago screw for the pivot-which just means that a male side screws into a female side-and there’s a problem.
The problem is that the barrel side of the screw has a flat side that keeps it from spinning as you are threading the male side, but it has a Torx head on it.
Essentially, it’s a DUMMY Torx head, since that side CANNOT BE TURNED.
The female barrel side of the screw is on the clip side of the knife.
A while back, I attempted to disassemble my Manix 2XL, and I began with THAT SIDE I just mentioned. I tried and tried and tried to turn that fucking thing, and of course IT WAS NOT POSSIBLE. I was baffled. I became convinced (in part because of what some people online said) that Spyderco had locked the screw with the dreaded Red Loctite. I eventually gave up.
Then when I recently ordered a titanium ball cage for the knife, I came to this video, and followed these instructions, and of course that totally got around the problem I had experienced earlier, since this video shows us to unscrew the side of the pivot that actually WILL unscrew.
I'm of two minds when it comes to Chicago screws like that. I understand they did it for the sake of symmetry. Heck, they might have even done it as part of construction due to how the washers are situated on the pivot, but I can certainly understand the frustration... Might actually make Spyderco happy as they're still not enthused with people taking them apart.
My original Manix 2 XL did indeed have permanent Loctite. It wasn't slathered in the stuff though, so a bit of heat from a hair dryer loosened things up. Not sure when they did away with that. Maybe when they CQI'ed it to have skeletonized liners? Or possibly the CQI before that when they replaced the original ball cage that was really brittle.
@@JerryLoffelbein My main point is that if you’re going to have a Chicago screw that’s D-shaped so that it can’t be turned, DON’T PUT A TORX HEAD ON THE SIDE THAT CAN’T BE TURNED!
As for the old plastic cage-do you mean the clear ones? I have a 154CM Manix 2 with that cage. So far, it’s been OK. But the company should never have gone with plastic cages in the first place, if they were going to switch to cages at all. (And I would really prefer that they had just kept the original Ball Bearing Lock, which I call the “Naked Ball Bearing Lock.”)
Thank you, your vid saved my ass.
Another 👍
I have a Manix 2 XL which is making this annoying little clicking sound as the blade is being opened. I imagine this clicking is caused by the ball cage and cage ball interaction. Maybe these parts are less than precisely fit? Is there any way to correct this? Would a replacement Flytanium ball cage correct this issue?
A bit of a click sound when opening is normal for the mechanism, and mine has it even after the bearing cage replacement. It looks like the cage shifts up toward the spine at a certain point when the click happens. That same click happens on my Axis locks from Benchmade.
That click goes away if you pull back on the cage and use centrifugal force to swing the blade open.
It's possible that coating all the locking mechanism pieces in one of those "dry film" lubricants that include teflon might dampen the sound, but I'm not sure of a way to get rid of it altogether.
Does the xl have the same size as the standard manix?
Same size bearing cage? Yes, they're interchangeable. The caveat being I believe the lightweight models are NOT interchangeable, but they're made via pinned construction anyway, so you're not going to get the knife back together if you cracked it open.
@@JerryLoffelbein yes thank you. They make the lightweight version now with screw construction.
Those fingernails tho
I can't even take this shit seriously
The voice don't match the nails.
Yowza! I vomited due to the hands before I got 30 seconds into this.......