For the people asking what to do if you don't have a way to spin a tank like that, look into rust removal by electrolysis. You just need a length of rebar, a box of "washing soda" (cheap at the supermarket, but it will take awhile to find it!), and an old 12V battery charger. I've used it for a few motorcycle gas tanks and it works extremely well, doesn't make racket, doesn't harm paint, and doesn't create any nasty biproducts.In the past I've tried acid (vinegar, Rust-Mort, and muriatic acid) as well as abrasion (nuts on a loop of twine) and electrolysis works better with less mess.To clean it out after electrolysis, dump it out, use the pressure washer to clean out any remaining chunks of rust, and follow with a few quarts of 99% isopropyl alcohol to absorb any remaining water and flush it away.
Having professionally cleaned drums the best thing to use is caustic soda, water and steel chains, the caustic eats all the rust but will not harm the steel at all.
I have an 80 gallon Westinghouse I want to recondition and it weighs maybe 200lbs. I can't imagine what that 120 gal tank weighs. I'm glad to know the ports on each end will hold the weight like a big corn cob. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Hey Stan, I made a "radiator" or heat exchanger for my single stage, 5hp, 60gal, compressor. I plumbed the output of the compressor through about 30 feet of copper pipe ("L", I think, 1/2"). Just an up down up down updown config sandwiched between two aluminum sheets. After that the air went into the tank. I used ordinary solder and the joints within a foot or two from the compressor got hot and failed. So I had to use compression fittings. The end result was a 125psi tank full of much cooler/denser air (PV=nRT::: that means that you have a lot more air). It has been kicking ass for 25 years!! Very little condensation making it to the output lines! Almost all of the moisture condensated in the tank. Air tools ran stronger as well, since the air was thicker! The compressor was stationary, so the heat exchanger contraption made no difference.
Very informative video, an entertaining watch. Creative way of reconditioning the tank. I envy you the good outdoor weather. Here in Greenland we'll be walking on snow for another 2 months. Thanks for the video program!
Thorough! I've used the gravel method on a few old classic car fuel tanks after cleaning out the varnish with paint remover... I think you have greatly extended the life of that compressor! Thank you for sharing your technique! :o] O,
Not so ironically, I've seen more than a few of these types of tanks converted into industrial-sized ball mills. When I saw your interior cleaning method, I was not so surprised to find myself nodding in agreement.
I have a 1959 Kellogg American two stage sitting on a John Wood Company 85 gallon 200psi tank. The pump works awesome, the tank has me nervous because of it's age. I'll never operate it past 140-150 psi but that still has me worried.
To late for this project, but for anybody now {5/30/14} doing any type of restoration, primer, or primer surfacer {paints} are just adhesion promoters, NOT A SEALER!!!!!!! A great choice in this case would have been to use a two part {ONE PART PAINT TO ONE PART HARDENER} Epoxy Paint as the "SEALER" / protector against moisture. Primer will delay the effects of moisture on metal(s), but in the long run offer NO PROTECTION against the long term effects of moisture on metal, i.e. RUST / OXIDATION of the base metal(s). Any type of a paint (Latex / Oils / Enamels / Acrylics, Automotive, etc. ) offers far superior & much, much, much more & longer protection, than just a primer. Great video thanks for sharing. P.S. Open the buns, pour some paint in, I'd say approximately 1/2 gal should be enough, just rock your tank back and forth (side to side) enough so that a painted surface is achieved approximately 6" in in height, you'll be way ahead of the game in doing so.
Thanks for sharing the fun and the learning. I'd have been tempted to stand it on its ends to paint the caps, rather than work a brush through the holes....or maybe attached a detail spray gun to the rod instead of the brush. Don't know if that would have worked, but I'd probably have tried it. Anything to avoid "arthroscopic painting"! -- Mike
nice job. that's a big boy tank, mines an ole 25 gal. 2hp. how'd you get your end plugs off that tank. I'm trying to restore mine as well. thanks awesome idea with the pipe threader and pea gravel. ✌🏼️👍🏼
Nice video, especially the clear explanation of (and reason for) hydro-testing. It would have been a heck of a rigging job, but I would have liked to see a bit of tumbling with the axis tilted up at 45˚ and down at 45˚ just to get some abrasion on the inside of the end caps. Did you consider "power ventilation" for clearing the acetone? An air hose with an inline needle valve just stuck into one of the big bungs to create a steady air flow through the tank. By using an air hose, with no end fitting, you cut the chances of a spark (from a local fan or other such air source) setting the whole thing off. I'm in the process of watching all your older videos, so you can expect some new comments on your older videos for a while.
Fantastic! Greatly appreciate the information. I was considering soda blasting the inside of mine but knew there had to be an easier way. I have been looking for am excuse to by a pipe threader for a while too.
The manufacturer should have coated the inside of the tank with fiberglass resin to prevent rusting of the tank from the inside. If it were done, the tank should last at least for a lifetime. I think the manufacturers do not coat the inside of the tanks because they want the tanks to have a short life span so that people will buy new ones to replace the old ones. But rusty air compressor tanks are very dangerous, the government should mandate the inside coating for safety reason.
Email from Quincy was to immediately stop using the compressor and take the system out of service. I found a plate on the tank with a date of 1949. Enjoyed your video and thanks for the reply JIM
Nice work Stan! Thanks for posting this. Most of us don’t have access to a pipe threader, but I can rent a small and cheap cement mixer and I think I can rig it to give me the rotation at a similar speed. There’s another video of a guy who’s rigged a compressor tank to rotate in the same way. He did it to paint his tank easily and lay the paint on thick with no runs. Something you do with this set up too! Love these home-brew tips. Once I find a good old receiver for my Quincy 340 project, I plan to do all of this! Was curious if you were going to topcoat the primer. Not sure about this product, but primer by itself hasn’t worked well for me for rust prevention. I’ll use POR-15. I plan to de-gas the inside with a slow regulated flow of compressed air, the way regenerative air dryer vessels are dewatered when the silica gets saturated.
Very good and very timely that I just came across this video, as I am looking to upgrade my air compressor shortly. You would think I would have already done this, what with my mainstay as a railroad air horn rebuilder, but no, my compressed air capability is pretty pathetic. Now to find a used but decent 60-100 gallon compressor.....
Hi Stan, Awesome job, my first video is of a Quincy air compressor that I got as salvage, I'm going to rework it a little and use it to replace one in my shop that has a rod knock. I can't wait to see the next part of this, given your attention to detail, I'm sure this will be a great project. Great video ...... Mike
Hiya Mike, Deck clearance on a comp pump are usually .030 - .050 . "Rod knocks" in a compressor are really the piston hitting the head, and are no big deal if repaired early enough, usually just a worn rod bearing, if the bearing is spun or the piston smacked the head too long then is is better just to start with a new pump. Thanks for the view Stan
Why not use a leaf blower. Hook it up to one of those 2in plugs, they can put out quite a few CFM. You can also use it to vent those paint fumes, fresh air in one hole, paint fumes out the other.
This was pretty ingenious using the rock tumble. Most tanks have a certifcation plate. That plate will have the manufacture date and wall thickness stamped on it. I have an old curtis tank from the 50's that is stamped 220 on the sides and 190 on the caps. This is WAY thicker than the tanks they make today. Only thing I dont like about it is there is no fittings on the bottom so im kind of concerned about draining water effectively . Any thoughts on that?
I’ve seen copper tubing plumbed into an end-cap bent downward to scrape the inside diameter of the tank. Then you just us lots of pipe dope or sealing tape and clock the tube like the hands of a clock until it sweeps into the 6:00 position so it picks up the water at the bottom. Hope this helps!
When we used to recondition 44 gallon drums we used water and caustic soda and 6 X 1 metre chains then spun them flat then 45 degrees one way and 45 degrees the other way and to dry we blew hot air into 1 hole and a long suction tube in the other hole, they would come out clean and dry.
How much rusty gunk came out of the tank? I'm cleaning a 60 gal. tank and I've flushed out about 2 cups of soil-looking rusty stuff. I will hydro test it but I'm slowly losing hope that the tank will be good.
Hi, I would do the pressure check before you waste any more time on the tank. But to answer your question it was probably more than 2 cups of rusty slime, mine was very oily too, which didn't hurt anything and maybe preserved the tank a little. Good luck with your test.
I think I would test it after it was cleaned out. The rust flakes removed could make a big difference. Definitely would test it. I've seen one blow. A small pin hole in a small portable air tank threw a 200 pound man across the shop violently. Wouldn't want to be around if one like in the video went off. Ohh and after it blew...the owner wanted me to weld it up...LMAO
I couldn’t build a rotisserie for my compressor so instead I cut a chain that is slightly larger then the diameter of my tank, then welded a steel rod through the censer link. Then I put it into my drill And ran it a low/medium speed. It worked quite well, however this is clearly a superior method If you have the resources and time.
@ Jim, I would have the pressure vessel hydro tested, a failed weld around the drain fitting can be repaired, a rusty tank bottom is another story, it may be the reason this unit was given to you.
I guess not too many of you dipsticks actually WATCHED this video. The OP DID HYDRO TEST this tank I believe he said "over 400 psi" but YOU can now watch the video and FIND OUT
Hey Stan... Lol...when you said you had a trick for cleaning the inside of the tank...I thought ok, he is going to spin it with media inside...hmmmm...but how is he going to get it on his lathe????...LOL Very nice work and great explanation of your steps and how the compressor head works... Enjoyed Chuck
Hey Chuck,I have seen this done on a lathe, pipe in the chuck, steady rest in place of the tailstock, tank hanging past the lathe tail, V block stand, low speed and let her fly! Too much stuff swinging around inside the shop! I like the pipe threader better :)Stan
The finned copper line is called an intercooler line. The only reason I say this is I work as a Maintenance Tech and have had to replace this line on one of our compressors. For what they are they're fairly expensive. Fins just welded to a copper line.
Thanks for the video! I have some questions for you: 1. How do you connect the pressure washer gun to the tank? I checked my pressure washer and none of the connectors (hose, tip, etc) are compatible with quick connects for air hoses. 2. I have a small 11 Gallon tank that came from a defective compressor that I want to use as a secondary tank for my current compressor. The holes are very small so I don't want to dump any rocks in there. Could I use rust converter in there, rise out and then coat the Inside with a rust paint?
Hi MTL, I made a a quick adapter fitting on the lathe for the pressure test. As far as your coating, I dont have any experience with the one you are talking about, but getting the tank clean is important so the coating will adhere. Thanks for the view and comment.
I’m doing the same thing with a 40 year old Manchester water tank (200 psi rating. Just under 0.25” walls). Did you think of using Evaporust first before the gravel? Also, I’m thinking of a 2 part epoxy primer followed by an epoxy resin for the inside. I’d like your thoughts on this. Thanks, Paul
I have the same tank on my compressor. Only mine was built in 1968 and it has a Devilbiss 432 pump on it. Very well made tanks. Not like the cheap china stuff.
Hey Stan - was given an old 30 gal Quincy. I don't have your skills or tools but got it running to notice a pin hole leak near the drain valve. Pretty cool old machine - what do you suggest. JIM
Compressors rot out inside out. I would never refurb the tank. You can have ultrasound down for thickness checks but that will cost you more than a new tank.
did coating the inside with primer actually stick over time? I'm about to do the same procedure but am worried that the primer will begin to flake and cause trouble down the line.
Think of primer, or primer surfacer {paints} as the equivalent of concrete. If you made a bird bath with just concrete, and put no sealers on that concrete, you know that the water / moisture will just migrate / pass through it (the concrete), may not in a few seconds, but by the end of the day the bird bath will be empty. GEEE where the water go (assuming that the sun didn't evaporate it {the water}).
You have a good pump..today there not.. built as well.. I wish I had an older champion..like you have..they were work horses. I boughta new Saylor-beall..this yr..made in America..as well..do not bye a harbor fright. Unit..there junk. Been there in the past..
I used a tap and die set mine were stuck and got broken off so I tapped them out gotta work up from a size that just fits and go to the size of the plug(sadly most people don't have these laying around)
Old air compressors are like ticking time bombs - you never know when they will go off. It's not a good idea to have a bomb near you... that's why you never repair an airframe older than 10 years. safety first
@@ShadonHKW yes sorry on the threader. I love this idea and want to do it to my old tank but dont have access to a threader. Thinking of using a garage door opener and hearing it to 60 rpm or slower. You and your video have been a great help. Thanks!!
So you have a tank so rusty you basically have to sand blast it, which effectively shot peens the interior changing it hardness and yield values, you admitted it's already pitted inside, and plus it welded on the outside of it. This is dumb and the tank should just be retired. And you should delete this video.
What are your thoughts on this ?? after watching it makes me wonder if its worth rebuilding tanks just curious of your thoughts on it ua-cam.com/video/KVP_A7eGYxw/v-deo.html
Hi Spence, That was a cheap (non-ASME) tank from a big box store, you could see the thin gauge steel and the weld separation at the tank bells, although the rust didn't appear that bad it could have been a part of this failure. That actually looks like an over pressurized condition, but who knows. This just reinforces the need for hydro testing.
best video i've seen on how to restore an air compressor tank. thank you
For the people asking what to do if you don't have a way to spin a tank like that, look into rust removal by electrolysis. You just need a length of rebar, a box of "washing soda" (cheap at the supermarket, but it will take awhile to find it!), and an old 12V battery charger. I've used it for a few motorcycle gas tanks and it works extremely well, doesn't make racket, doesn't harm paint, and doesn't create any nasty biproducts.In the past I've tried acid (vinegar, Rust-Mort, and muriatic acid) as well as abrasion (nuts on a loop of twine) and electrolysis works better with less mess.To clean it out after electrolysis, dump it out, use the pressure washer to clean out any remaining chunks of rust, and follow with a few quarts of 99% isopropyl alcohol to absorb any remaining water and flush it away.
Needs to be the 99%. The iso you normally see in say a drug store is 50% and is saturated it WON'T ABSORB any more water.
heat it dry
Having professionally cleaned drums the best thing to use is caustic soda, water and steel chains, the caustic eats all the rust but will not harm the steel at all.
I have an 80 gallon Westinghouse I want to recondition and it weighs maybe 200lbs. I can't imagine what that 120 gal tank weighs. I'm glad to know the ports on each end will hold the weight like a big corn cob. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Spinning tank, I loved it! You’re a genius..
A huge tumbler! What a great idea!
Hey Stan, I made a "radiator" or heat exchanger for my single stage, 5hp, 60gal, compressor. I plumbed the output of the compressor through about 30 feet of copper pipe ("L", I think, 1/2"). Just an up down up down updown config sandwiched between two aluminum sheets. After that the air went into the tank. I used ordinary solder and the joints within a foot or two from the compressor got hot and failed. So I had to use compression fittings. The end result was a 125psi tank full of much cooler/denser air (PV=nRT::: that means that you have a lot more air). It has been kicking ass for 25 years!! Very little condensation making it to the output lines! Almost all of the moisture condensated in the tank. Air tools ran stronger as well, since the air was thicker! The compressor was stationary, so the heat exchanger contraption made no difference.
This compressor just found a home (even before I am done with it), will have to try it on the next one!
Thanks for the comment.
WAVETUBE84 i
Very informative video, an entertaining watch. Creative way of reconditioning the tank. I envy you the good outdoor weather. Here in Greenland we'll be walking on snow for another 2 months. Thanks for the video program!
I wish you had Photos of the Tank's inside, before/after!
Agreed. He should buy a endoscope / borescope tool. They’re very handy.
Great video bud, got an old massive compressor to restore and this vid certainly aids in the ideas and motivation.
Thorough! I've used the gravel method on a few old classic car fuel tanks after cleaning out the varnish with paint remover... I think you have greatly extended the life of that compressor! Thank you for sharing your technique! :o]
O,
Not so ironically, I've seen more than a few of these types of tanks converted into industrial-sized ball mills. When I saw your interior cleaning method, I was not so surprised to find myself nodding in agreement.
Perfectly detailed! Great video! Would be nice to see how to do one that sits upright
Holding the inside cleaning till the end thats evil yet I can't force myself to forward to it nicely done
I have a 1959 Kellogg American two stage sitting on a John Wood Company 85 gallon 200psi tank.
The pump works awesome, the tank has me nervous because of it's age.
I'll never operate it past 140-150 psi but that still has me worried.
To late for this project, but for anybody now {5/30/14} doing any type of restoration, primer, or primer surfacer {paints} are just adhesion promoters, NOT A SEALER!!!!!!! A great choice in this case would have been to use a two part {ONE PART PAINT TO ONE PART HARDENER} Epoxy Paint as the "SEALER" / protector against moisture. Primer will delay the effects of moisture on metal(s), but in the long run offer NO PROTECTION against the long term effects of moisture on metal, i.e. RUST / OXIDATION of the base metal(s). Any type of a paint (Latex / Oils / Enamels / Acrylics, Automotive, etc. ) offers far superior & much, much, much more & longer protection, than just a primer. Great video thanks for sharing.
P.S. Open the buns, pour some paint in, I'd say approximately 1/2 gal should be enough, just rock your tank back and forth (side to side) enough so that a painted surface is achieved approximately 6" in in height, you'll be way ahead of the game in doing so.
Thanks for sharing the fun and the learning. I'd have been tempted to stand it on its ends to paint the caps, rather than work a brush through the holes....or maybe attached a detail spray gun to the rod instead of the brush. Don't know if that would have worked, but I'd probably have tried it. Anything to avoid "arthroscopic painting"!
-- Mike
nice job. that's a big boy tank, mines an ole 25 gal. 2hp. how'd you get your end plugs off that tank. I'm trying to restore mine as well. thanks awesome idea with the pipe threader and pea gravel. ✌🏼️👍🏼
Nice video, especially the clear explanation of (and reason for) hydro-testing.
It would have been a heck of a rigging job, but I would have liked to see a bit of tumbling with the axis tilted up at 45˚ and down at 45˚ just to get some abrasion on the inside of the end caps.
Did you consider "power ventilation" for clearing the acetone? An air hose with an inline needle valve just stuck into one of the big bungs to create a steady air flow through the tank. By using an air hose, with no end fitting, you cut the chances of a spark (from a local fan or other such air source) setting the whole thing off.
I'm in the process of watching all your older videos, so you can expect some new comments on your older videos for a while.
Peter W. Meek Enjoy the old stuff, but it will get worse the farther back you go :)
Well I started with the earliest, so things can only get better.
Ha ha, what a great outlook.
Fantastic! Greatly appreciate the information. I was considering soda blasting the inside of mine but knew there had to be an easier way. I have been looking for am excuse to by a pipe threader for a while too.
This is a great how to video I liked seeing the tank spinning Thanks for all the info
The manufacturer should have coated the inside of the tank with fiberglass resin to prevent rusting of the tank from the inside. If it were done, the tank should last at least for a lifetime. I think the manufacturers do not coat the inside of the tanks because they want the tanks to have a short life span so that people will buy new ones to replace the old ones. But rusty air compressor tanks are very dangerous, the government should mandate the inside coating for safety reason.
At first I was going to lam bast you on doing that tank but I now see you know what you are doing!
Email from Quincy was to immediately stop using the compressor and take the system out of service. I found a plate on the tank with a date of 1949. Enjoyed your video and thanks for the reply
JIM
Nice work Stan! Thanks for posting this. Most of us don’t have access to a pipe threader, but I can rent a small and cheap cement mixer and I think I can rig it to give me the rotation at a similar speed.
There’s another video of a guy who’s rigged a compressor tank to rotate in the same way. He did it to paint his tank easily and lay the paint on thick with no runs. Something you do with this set up too!
Love these home-brew tips. Once I find a good old receiver for my Quincy 340 project, I plan to do all of this!
Was curious if you were going to topcoat the primer. Not sure about this product, but primer by itself hasn’t worked well for me for rust prevention. I’ll use POR-15.
I plan to de-gas the inside with a slow regulated flow of compressed air, the way regenerative air dryer vessels are dewatered when the silica gets saturated.
Very good and very timely that I just came across this video, as I am looking to upgrade my air compressor shortly. You would think I would have already done this, what with my mainstay as a railroad air horn rebuilder, but no, my compressed air capability is pretty pathetic. Now to find a used but decent 60-100 gallon compressor.....
need heavy tanks? I got em. thick heavy gauge. nice 150lb rated different sizes
Hi Stan, Awesome job, my first video is of a Quincy air compressor that I got as salvage, I'm going to rework it a little and use it to replace one in my shop that has a rod knock.
I can't wait to see the next part of this, given your attention to detail, I'm sure this will be a great project.
Great video ...... Mike
Hiya Mike,
Deck clearance on a comp pump are usually .030 - .050 . "Rod knocks" in a compressor are really the piston hitting the head, and are no big deal if repaired early enough, usually just a worn rod bearing, if the bearing is spun or the piston smacked the head too long then is is better just to start with a new pump.
Thanks for the view
Stan
Video is dated but remains relevant. Thank you.
This comment is dated, but remains relevant. Thank you.
Nice thorough job, the coating on the fresh metal should outlast us all.
I can only imagine your neighbors weren't your biggest fans this day.
Interesting never thought of that. What about coating the inside with POR 15
Ted
Why not use a leaf blower. Hook it up to one of those 2in plugs, they can put out quite a few CFM. You can also use it to vent those paint fumes, fresh air in one hole, paint fumes out the other.
This was pretty ingenious using the rock tumble. Most tanks have a certifcation plate. That plate will have the manufacture date and wall thickness stamped on it. I have an old curtis tank from the 50's that is stamped 220 on the sides and 190 on the caps. This is WAY thicker than the tanks they make today. Only thing I dont like about it is there is no fittings on the bottom so im kind of concerned about draining water effectively . Any thoughts on that?
I’ve seen copper tubing plumbed into an end-cap bent downward to scrape the inside diameter of the tank. Then you just us lots of pipe dope or sealing tape and clock the tube like the hands of a clock until it sweeps into the 6:00 position so it picks up the water at the bottom. Hope this helps!
When we used to recondition 44 gallon drums we used water and caustic soda and 6 X 1 metre chains then spun them flat then 45 degrees one way and 45 degrees the other way and to dry we blew hot air into 1 hole and a long suction tube in the other hole, they would come out clean and dry.
Well done video and excellent information. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
How much rusty gunk came out of the tank? I'm cleaning a 60 gal. tank and I've flushed out about 2 cups of soil-looking rusty stuff. I will hydro test it but I'm slowly losing hope that the tank will be good.
Hi, I would do the pressure check before you waste any more time on the tank. But to answer your question it was probably more than 2 cups of rusty slime, mine was very oily too, which didn't hurt anything and maybe preserved the tank a little.
Good luck with your test.
I think I would test it after it was cleaned out. The rust flakes removed could make a big difference. Definitely would test it. I've seen one blow. A small pin hole in a small portable air tank threw a 200 pound man across the shop violently. Wouldn't want to be around if one like in the video went off. Ohh and after it blew...the owner wanted me to weld it up...LMAO
I couldn’t build a rotisserie for my compressor so instead I cut a chain that is slightly larger then the diameter of my tank, then welded a steel rod through the censer link. Then I put it into my drill And ran it a low/medium speed. It worked quite well, however this is clearly a superior method If you have the resources and time.
@ Jim,
I would have the pressure vessel hydro tested, a failed weld around the drain fitting can be repaired, a rusty tank bottom is another story, it may be the reason this unit was given to you.
I guess not too many of you dipsticks actually WATCHED this video. The OP DID HYDRO TEST this tank I believe he said "over 400 psi" but YOU can now watch the video and FIND OUT
Clearly you are so right ... they clearly didn't watch and listen very long!
Hey Stan...
Lol...when you said you had a trick for cleaning the inside of the tank...I thought ok, he is going to spin it with media inside...hmmmm...but how is he going to get it on his lathe????...LOL
Very nice work and great explanation of your steps and how the compressor head works...
Enjoyed
Chuck
Hey Chuck,I have seen this done on a lathe, pipe in the chuck, steady rest in place of the tailstock, tank hanging past the lathe tail, V block stand, low speed and let her fly! Too much stuff swinging around inside the shop! I like the pipe threader better :)Stan
The finned copper line is called an intercooler line. The only reason I say this is I work as a Maintenance Tech and have had to replace this line on one of our compressors. For what they are they're fairly expensive. Fins just welded to a copper line.
Thanks for the video! I have some questions for you:
1. How do you connect the pressure washer gun to the tank? I checked my pressure washer and none of the connectors (hose, tip, etc) are compatible with quick connects for air hoses.
2. I have a small 11 Gallon tank that came from a defective compressor that I want to use as a secondary tank for my current compressor. The holes are very small so I don't want to dump any rocks in there. Could I use rust converter in there, rise out and then coat the Inside with a rust paint?
Hi MTL,
I made a a quick adapter fitting on the lathe for the pressure test. As far as your coating, I dont have any experience with the one you are talking about, but getting the tank clean is important so the coating will adhere.
Thanks for the view and comment.
Be careful with those small tanks some are thin and will blow apart.
Guys, never hydro double the max. wi=orking pressure. ASME code states 1.5 MAX. so 200 psig max is 300 psig.
I’m doing the same thing with a 40 year old Manchester water tank (200 psi rating. Just under 0.25” walls). Did you think of using Evaporust first before the gravel? Also, I’m thinking of a 2 part epoxy primer followed by an epoxy resin for the inside. I’d like your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Paul
Evaporust wasn't really around when I shot this video, but it sounds like a good idea.
Wow can pressure washers go that high bloody hell .rgds Don.
Great video! Great explanation and lots of good tips. Thanks!
How long are you supposed to leave the tanks it after you pressurize it
Half an hour is plenty, leaks will be immediately evident.
@@ShadonHKW okay thanks
I was laughing so hard watching that tank spin around. Great job! keep the videos coming
Dale d
Hiya Dale, thanks for stopping by.
Informative and interesting. It's always nice to learn a little something new. Thank you.
Hi Are you running that tank at 200 psi ?? If so WOW . I thought most compressors ran at about 8 bar (112psi) Good job tho guys. Don
I have the same tank on my compressor. Only mine was built in 1968 and it has a Devilbiss 432 pump on it. Very well made tanks. Not like the cheap china stuff.
I would only hydro-test after the gravel rolling the interior. seems like that step could uncover weak points...
plus its an extra rinse
Good work! Looks like exactly how I would do it.
No work hardening from the gravel shake?
Hey Stan - was given an old 30 gal Quincy. I don't have your skills or tools but got it running to notice a pin hole leak near the drain valve. Pretty cool old machine - what do you suggest.
JIM
Jim are you still alive
I recon this tank will outlive me and maybe humanity.
Excellent video and explanatory. I have now subscribed to your channel 🇬🇧
Compressors rot out inside out. I would never refurb the tank. You can have ultrasound down for thickness checks but that will cost you more than a new tank.
did coating the inside with primer actually stick over time? I'm about to do the same procedure but am worried that the primer will begin to flake and cause trouble down the line.
I did a 12 month tank inspection, still holding :)
I always hydro test tanks to make sure they will hold up
Cray Cray dude. I guess so, but your neighbors must hate you. On a Sunday morn???? lol
The tank reminds me of PIGS IN SPACE when it is spinning.
Think of primer, or primer surfacer {paints} as the equivalent of concrete. If you made a bird bath with just concrete, and put no sealers on that concrete, you know that the water / moisture will just migrate / pass through it (the concrete), may not in a few seconds, but by the end of the day the bird bath will be empty. GEEE where the water go (assuming that the sun didn't evaporate it {the water}).
i like how you pay attention to replace it with another fin tube
instead of using something else
8:25 lol awesome
Very interesting.
But out of curiosity, how many tons covers tank support, with 8 kgm/cm2.
This is very dangerous.
I have a big tank like that. the tank was halfway filled with water and rust.
Primer holds moisture.
So how do I spin the tank if I don’t have a pipe threader?
You need a way to spin the tank.
Shadon HKW haha alright, I guess I gotta figure that out
Actually the interstage pressure is only around 45 PSIG
I'd love to see this process before & after using a camera snake
Want to do my '87 TechQuip if I mail it to ya?? lol
Good video, thanks
Colin
are old air compressors got a safer tank then new ones
+Nathan Currie probably at least twice as thick so even rusty there's still more metal! haha
You have a good pump..today there not.. built as well.. I wish I had an older champion..like you have..they were work horses. I boughta new Saylor-beall..this yr..made in America..as well..do not bye a harbor fright. Unit..there junk. Been there in the past..
you are insane "reconditioning" air tanks. the risk and consequences of something going wrong is not worth it. but a new tank.
This. I can't believe this video.
Very informative! Thanks for sharing!
I'm at the point where it's still a surprise, haven't read the comments either. I'm guessing rock tumbler.
What type of solder for that homemade conduit extension????
Hey Dark,
I am guessing you are referring to the pressure washer adaptor? I used pluming grade silver solder.
Stuffs rated at 30000psi?? Think it be good for hydraulics at around 1200psi?
Nvm, Im guessing your pressure washer is far beyond that.
I only pressurized the tank to 400 psi.
How did you remove the 2" plugs ? I have tried heat and impacts
I used a tap and die set mine were stuck and got broken off so I tapped them out gotta work up from a size that just fits and go to the size of the plug(sadly most people don't have these laying around)
Where do you think I can get my tank resurfaced? What type of shop does this? Thank you.
These guys offer tank testing, refurb and refinish www.brenner-fiedler.com/production-services/custom-painting-coating/
Thanks..learned alot..
Por 15 360 degree rotational vented i think would work
Old air compressors are like ticking time bombs - you never know when they will go off. It's not a good idea to have a bomb near you... that's why you never repair an airframe older than 10 years. safety first
What is the approx weight of that tank?
about 100 lb
what rpm are you running? thanks
On the pump? 550, on the threader? 60
@@ShadonHKW yes sorry on the threader. I love this idea and want to do it to my old tank but dont have access to a threader. Thinking of using a garage door opener and hearing it to 60 rpm or slower. You and your video have been a great help. Thanks!!
excelent
8:15. It’s like an automatic washing machine
yap even inside the airplain is watching hahahaha! nice but expensive for poor people! some guys ate words but this is clear! thanks!
You should under no circumstances try to repair an air compressor. It is a risk of ARMAGEDDON. Just joking;)
So you have a tank so rusty you basically have to sand blast it, which effectively shot peens the interior changing it hardness and yield values, you admitted it's already pitted inside, and plus it welded on the outside of it. This is dumb and the tank should just be retired. And you should delete this video.
more on wordzzzz than action or actual...
What are your thoughts on this ??
after watching it makes me wonder if its worth rebuilding tanks just curious of your thoughts on it
ua-cam.com/video/KVP_A7eGYxw/v-deo.html
Hi Spence, That was a cheap (non-ASME) tank from a big box store, you could see the thin gauge steel and the weld separation at the tank bells, although the rust didn't appear that bad it could have been a part of this failure. That actually looks like an over pressurized condition, but who knows. This just reinforces the need for hydro testing.
OK, Thanks .
no comms
Why u talking so much?
NOT worth the effort.
yap even inside the airplain is watching hahahaha! nice but expensive for poor people! some guys ate words but this is clear! thanks!