Printing Linoleum using Washable Oil-Based Inks
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2020
- This video covers everything from setting up a printing space at home, using washable oil-based inks, using a registration board and inking up blends in an assemblagraph linocut block. I am printing with Cranfield Caligo Safe Wash Relief Inks and Charbonnel Aqua Wash Etching Inks. Mixing colors, printing with a toothpick baren, cleaning up and everything in between is in here as well. This video is geared toward a project for my upper-division printmaking students at Humboldt State University, but it can be of interest in anyone printing relief at home.
Sarah Whorf
Find me on Instagram @inkerprinter
You are so crisp and clear in your delivery. You explain everything with such delicacy and so kind in everything that you impart. Beautiful lesson. Thank you very much.
Wonderful deoms and the toothpick baren is amazing! :-)
Totally cool technique. If you want your blocks to carve easier, a little heat helps. A coffee warmer works well for small blocks, and a buffet warmer for larger. But nothing beats sharp tools. The standby Speedball tips are good steel, but need a lot of honing and stropping to work optimally. You can strop with chromium oxide green oil paint/ink on a piece of leather or hard felt. Use a sharpie on the blade to judge your progress and if you're keeping the bevel constant. Honing can be done with cut grooves in wood and silicon carbide paper. You need to work up to at least 400 grit before stropping. Vee shaped sticks can be used to strop the inside of the bevels, very important. Both sides of a blade do the cutting.
For more info, search sharpening a wood carving gouge and vee tool, as the Speedball tips are a combination of these two basic woodcarving shapes.
Awesome video! I was looking for one that was longer with more information and here you are! Thanks for putting this up, definitely wanna give this a try!
Beautiful and love your setup
Thank you, I really enjoyed your demonstration.
Great video. A good place to find a nice sheet of tempered glass is to wait until somebody is throwing away a photocopier. The glass surfaces in them are often reinforced on one edge with some metal and they have holes drilled on the edges where you could mount your glass on a board with some screws.
Thank you for taking the time to share all of your valuable knowledge. Really enjoyed the video and learned a lot.
Thanks and great tip about the photocopiers. Good scrounge opportunity!
Such great resource! Thank you for sharing it:)
it is helpful to see how you set up your work area, thanks
This is the best video I've ever watched on lino printing!
Thank you!
Very nice, clear video. Very informative, and such nice prints!
Thank you so much!
Thank you Sarah, that was fantastic! I love your work and your teaching 🌼🌼🌼
Thank you! Happy printmaking!
excellent lessons, just what i needed, thank you!
Thank you! 😊
I would love it if you made a video on how to make a toothpick baren.
Okay! Might just do that!
you are an EXCELLENT TEACHER,,, THANNNNNNNNK YOU :)
how do you construct the Registration Board? Thanks for sharing!! Love the demo!
Fabulous. A quick tip to get rid of hairy edges is to burn them of with a lighter.
Yep! But...no open flame in our studio at Cal Poly Humboldt! Smiles.
Muy agradable la manera en que explicas. Grx
De nada! Happy printing!
A fantastic video, thank you (-: Marion
thank you
Hello sarah! Which ink should i use if i want to print on fabric or a t-shirt? Thanks 😊
Hi - I would recommend the Speedball Fabric Block Printing ink. It dries fast, so work quickly. My students use it all the time on fabric, and I have had great results as well. Be sure to heat set it when dry by either ironing it or putting it in a hot drier inside out. I believe there are instructions on the tubes.
Any recommendations on storage of finished prints, using oil based inks as the medium and acid free paper as the substrate?
Hi Romel - Disclaimer: I'm not an archivist, obviously. I store my prints in flat files and in archival boxes. I've been using archival boxes (Light Impressions, Blick, etc.) for many years. They are not too expensive and stackable. The main thing is to not store your prints with any newsprint or any non-acid free paper. Glassine is the perfect thing to layer between prints, but I have so many prints, that once the ink is totally dry, they are just stacked on top of each other. Best!
@@sarahwhorf thanks for the info. I too mostly just stack them on top of each other
What about rice paper? Smooth side with that, too, or the textured side? Thanks! I learned a lot!
Yes, smooth side of rice paper. Rice paper is washi. You're so welcome! Enjoy printing!
Hello Sarah. Thank you for your video very informative. May you advise me one or two old or recent very good resource book please?
Linocut by Nick Morley is good. Thanks for your nice comments!
@@sarahwhorf Thank you very Sarah.
Hello! So I'm printing with Cranfield oil modified ink. The prints look and blot as dry, but they still smudge. It feels more like graphite or charcoal though, and it's been a MONTH. I'm trying fixative on it. Does this ever happen to you??
Hi Serena - I haven't noticed, but then I am not handling the prints. Whenever I print something, like a postcard or business card, that will be handled, I add drier to the ink. I highly recommend the Cranfield Wax Drier. I've had great results with it. Best.
Just curious, why don’t you just run a clean brayer over the top instead of a wooden spoon?
I am not able to get enough pressure with a brayer. If you are printing with water-based ink, then maybe that would work, but I haven't found it effective.
Where do you teach?
I teach at Humboldt State University in California.
@@sarahwhorf Would you be able to recommend a relief printmaking workshop or class similar to yours in the LA area by any chance?
@@redgrey1736 Well, I haven't lived in LA for 16+ years, but you could look at Self Help Graphics, LA Printmaking Society website and any of the local universities or community colleges and see who offers printmaking and if you can enroll. Best, Sarah
@@sarahwhorf Thank you.
Do you teach online?
Hi - Sorry, but I don't teach online, at least not right now.
Meant kindly. Lino is pronounced, lye-no.
Thanks. Have heard that before. And, I've heard it pronounced both ways.
Toomuch talking
Thanks for your feedback.
Disagree totally. It's much more interesting and helpful when you talk through what you are doing and why. In fact, MORE talking would be good - such as which ink do you recommend - there are a lot out there! :-) Many thanks.