Really good video for people still running the original sending unit and want to keep it original. I myself have the new updated all in 1 unit from DMC Mid West. One thing you should do with these cars that you should have mentioned is getting rid of most of the connectors for anything that can be exposed to the elements and i found issues with stuff like your great video and turn signals and such is that these connectors can allow condensation and such inside because they're not weatherproof which will cause oxidation on the terminals therefore increasing the amount of resistance. Most of all the connectors now on 11035 that are exposed to the elements have been changed over to weather pack connectors plus adding Dielectric grease to the pin terminals for added protection. If people still would like to keep the original connector I definitely would think about changing the pins out of the connector or cleaning them up real good and installing Dielectric grease to prevent any kind of oxidation that would cause any kind of an electrical issue. Again, this is definitely a really good video and thanks again for posting!
If I wasnt going for original I would probably use the liquid tight connectors found on older Kawasaki motorcycles, I have adapted my Yamaha for these on the lower end of the bike and they seal the connections very nicely, still allowing for a mechanical disconnect when needed.
Retro Tech & Electronics yeah that's definitely not a bad choice either and I've never had any problems with weather pack connectors or really seen any major issues with them and all the years that I had work for General Motors and never really seen too many failure rates with them so that's why I went ahead with them and we have these at work that we put on our heavy equipment for are railroad equipment so I got all the tools there to make everything up. It's definitely just a nice added convenience of knowing that you're preventing any further issues down the road.
I'm about half way through restoring mine and this video consolidates and improves on my understanding of the DMC sender. I've replaced the tank and reinstated the sender - I'll definitely take the sender out again and clean it up. I have a limited electronics knowledge - but this explained everything to me. ..... Nice mention of tube amps too - I'm the owner of a couple of nice amps and had the pleasure of a tour around The Marshall Amp factory in the UK a few years ago when Jim Marshall was still alive. Oh ... I would also add that those wires on top of the sender can get brittle (as you know) after 37 years - mine have come off and they seem to be a bit of a bitch to repair?
The sender itself was never wonderful out of the gates. Ultimately once they go brittle and its not due to corrosion or dirt there is little you can due, in that case its time for one of the improved after market versions.
Really good video for people still running the original sending unit and want to keep it original. I myself have the new updated all in 1 unit from DMC Mid West. One thing you should do with these cars that you should have mentioned is getting rid of most of the connectors for anything that can be exposed to the elements and i found issues with stuff like your great video and turn signals and such is that these connectors can allow condensation and such inside because they're not weatherproof which will cause oxidation on the terminals therefore increasing the amount of resistance. Most of all the connectors now on 11035 that are exposed to the elements have been changed over to weather pack connectors plus adding Dielectric grease to the pin terminals for added protection. If people still would like to keep the original connector I definitely would think about changing the pins out of the connector or cleaning them up real good and installing Dielectric grease to prevent any kind of oxidation that would cause any kind of an electrical issue. Again, this is definitely a really good video and thanks again for posting!
If I wasnt going for original I would probably use the liquid tight connectors found on older Kawasaki motorcycles, I have adapted my Yamaha for these on the lower end of the bike and they seal the connections very nicely, still allowing for a mechanical disconnect when needed.
Retro Tech & Electronics yeah that's definitely not a bad choice either and I've never had any problems with weather pack connectors or really seen any major issues with them and all the years that I had work for General Motors and never really seen too many failure rates with them so that's why I went ahead with them and we have these at work that we put on our heavy equipment for are railroad equipment so I got all the tools there to make everything up. It's definitely just a nice added convenience of knowing that you're preventing any further issues down the road.
I'm about half way through restoring mine and this video consolidates and improves on my understanding of the DMC sender. I've replaced the tank and reinstated the sender - I'll definitely take the sender out again and clean it up. I have a limited electronics knowledge - but this explained everything to me. ..... Nice mention of tube amps too - I'm the owner of a couple of nice amps and had the pleasure of a tour around The Marshall Amp factory in the UK a few years ago when Jim Marshall was still alive.
Oh ... I would also add that those wires on top of the sender can get brittle (as you know) after 37 years - mine have come off and they seem to be a bit of a bitch to repair?
The sender itself was never wonderful out of the gates. Ultimately once they go brittle and its not due to corrosion or dirt there is little you can due, in that case its time for one of the improved after market versions.
My sender has a small nut instead of a press washer. Did you ever get readings when the tank was empty?
I did, is it not in the video, it should be the same reading as the unit on its lowest setting.