Color Case Hardening Effect using Cold Blue
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 гру 2017
- While experimenting with aging steel and seeing what can be done with various chemicals I accidentally learned that a Cold Blue solution can be used to simulate patterns produced by Color Case Hardening.
See for yourselves. - Розваги
That's a rare rank 2 blue gem pattern. Congrats.
lol I was also looking for this
Its a 661 AK case Hardened Blue gem OMG Statrak fn
I think its more of a phase 3 tbh bit still a really good pattern with even better wear index
just bought a gerber prodigy tanto that cs2 modeled for the ursus. gonna do this to my knife. siiiiiick!
Omgg scar pattern 661@@snomle
Bro, I've been looking for a video, I did the same thing in an accident with oil and bluing, but I could never replicate anymore. This explains why. It was a wet towel I had, not the oil. Thanks a LOT for the video.
@@USAMYHOMESWEETHOME Sure thing. I am glad the video helped.
Just used this method on an opinel and a straight razor. The openel came out looking exactly like color case hardening with lots of colors and the straight razor is absolutely gorgeous even though I could only get black and grey to come out. I've never been more happy with work I did with my hands.
Excellent.
Not too shabby, sir! I've seen other methods using blowtorches and oil, things like that to my recollection. But this really seems to be a true aesthetic copy of color case hardening. I definitely have to give this a shot on the old rifle I'm looking to restore.
I was surprised when I saw this happen as well. Too bad there aren't reds in the color scheme.
Add red to the color see what happens wow this is crazzy.
That looks great. Beats the heck out of spending tons of cash on equipment for heating the parts for color case hardening👍💯
But this doesn't actually do surface hardening obviously
Excellent, thank you! I had to do some grinding work on my Pietta 1851 Navy revolver with a similar finish; I used this technique and restored the finish where I had worked. You can't even tell, the gun looks new!
Glad it worked out. Sounds like a great spot fix for a great revolver.
beautifull ..yes going to try this on my saa colt backstrap ☺ thanks pal
I did a similar thing years ago using blueing and browning solution. It came out great.
Freaking brilliant!!!
Sir you are awesome!!
Glad you liked it. I was kind of surprised when I saw it happen and the video shows my 2nd attempt. I am sure with practice it can be made to look better.
Nice work! That turned out amazing!
Thanks man! I have an old Savage M24 22-.410 over under that I inherited from my grandpa, who died in 1968 when I was just three. I don't remember him but that gun is a treasure to me, I used to shoot it a lot. Then a pipe broke and flooded the storage room I had it in and destroyed the finish. Blueing the barrel as part of the renovation is no big deal but the case hardened receiver is another matter. I think this will work just fine. Can't wait to try it. I have Brownell's blueing though, but it should work the same. Thanks again!
Wow, it sucks about the flood. Hope you get it back in working order.
@@MosinVirus I'll send you pics when I get it done, before and after, good or bad! It's a cool concept you stumbled across. A happy accident for sure.
@@BigJohn651 thank you. I agree.
Dude this is straight up BRILLIANT!!!!
Thank you.
That is amazing, looks fantastic, I have been reading a lot about CCH lately, you make this version look easy, but your obviously a pro, I could only imagine how deep the colors would look, if you had clear coated it..
Thank you very much
@@MosinVirus Does that work on aluminum?
@@308dad8 No, and not on stainless either.
Thanks for sharing. This is easy and exactly what I was looking for.
My pleasure.
I'm going to use this to clean up a wall-hanger crescent side by side I have. It's not worth any real investment but I think this will be perfect for making it look a little fancier hanging on the wall. Thanks for sharing this!
My pleasure.
@@MosinVirus I realize you may have answered this in the video already, but I want to make sure I get the mixture right. Can I ask what the exact mixture you used is? Thanks very much!
I'm doing the same!
Very interesting and nicely done! I got a somewhat similar effect using two entirely different blueing solutions! Thanks for the video!
My pleasure. Which two solutions did you use?
@@MosinVirus One was the same as you, Super Blue, and the other was Van's Bluing Solution (if I remember correctly).
@@toddy2519 ok cool. Thanks for letting me know.
Very nice Mosin! You are showing it on a small rectangle flat piece and in my opinion it looks damn good. On a 1911 frame, I think your process will look even better. The 1911 frames lines are broken up with contours, curves and the flats are longer thinner sections. Since you can be selective where to add the effect, you could end up with better results than some of the expensive custom 1911 I've seen. Nice work as always!
Thank you very much.
This is beautiful. Miss seeing you upload regularly.
Thank you . Yes, I miss making videos too. Still working on the house. It has now been 1 year.
That’s really nice. Looks terrific
thank you
This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm wanting to make a "mad max" shift knob for my car. Couldn't find anyone I could buy from. So I decided to make it myself
Glad I could help.
Exactly what I needed! Thank you Sir.
Glad the video helped.
Beautiful work man thank you so so much for the tutelage!!!
Thank you. And I am more than happy to share.
Very nice. That turned out surprisingly good!
Thank you. I was surprised myself.
Neat! I just restored an old Crossman Classic American pump BB pistol. Polished it out and blued it using that PermaBlue. It turned out pretty nice. I may strip it, and give this a shot. It would look pretty cool (I think).
Thanks!
My pleasure. But these types of finishes should be lacquered over. If you got a good blue on the steel already you actually have more rust protection than you would with this faux effect, unless you lacquer it of course.
Thank you , I appreciate the reply. I assumed that the rust protection would be there. It's still a pretty cool effect, I'll have to find something else to try it on. C-ya!
If that looks as good in real life as it does on my screen, then it's absolutely awesome! Really impressed! I love the colours of case hardening, but it's an absolute nightmare going through the process of doing it properly! Can be quite risky too as parts can get distorted at the high temperatures involved!
Indeed. However no benefits of hardening.
@@MosinVirus true. I'm a knife maker, and there may be some potential to use this technique on parts that don't need hardening, such as crossguards and pommels. Depending on how it looks when I try it.
@@24934637 definitely give it a try.
Thanks man this lead me to this I picked up, If any one wants to get that on high polished gun steel and wants a high colour finish, when using the bud dip in super blue then take some very fine steel wool and brake the strands to make it less compacated and put the steel wool on the bit you want to colour and rub the bud on the steel wool on the gun steel and rub in for 4 to 5 seconds then use a fresh bit of wool and new bud to start the chemical reaction over again till your happy with the end finish, then rub light with fine steel wool and finish with some protective gun oil 👍 I had no look with this but figured this little trick what might be what some are looking for. 😁
Thank you for sharing.
Beautiful pattern - thanks!
It is my pleasure
That looks great!! well done.
Thank you very much.
I remember reading this in school in Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks. I believe the use of alcohol in the solution also had an effect, as well as a torch.
Some of the guys I went to school with tried the application of cold blue on parts that were actually color case hardened, and got some crazy psychedelic colors such as green, pink, purple etc. Kind of cool but hard to find a practical use for.
Thank you. I had no idea if this was a known method, but as you and a few other posters have stated it is well known.
How do you do do it with alchohol
@Jay Muller I don't think so. Cold Bluing and Hot Bluing works on Ferris metals, that is metal with iron content, and forms a sort of rust. Aluminum has no iron and therefore does not rust; it corrodes.
So many things in the shop we learn by happy accidents. Well done! KnifeMaker
Thank you very much. I completely agree.
I've done this by putting a wash of detergent solution on first, and got some great colors.
What detergent solution? Pics of results?
@@AviationJeremy Any washing up liquid 50/50 with water. You can also put a few small dots of copper sulphate solution on first, to get some reds.
I'm getting ready to go e this a try. Just to clarify, you're washing the gun clean with detergent or leaving detergent on the metal before adding the solvent? By great colors, bold traditional colors or extra non traditional color?
Thanks
@@donavonrobbins1908 Just mix washing up liquid with water, put it on clean steel and dab on some blueing solution. The detergent lowers the surface tension and you get a cool effect. Different blueing solutions give different colours, and if you add little dots of copper sulphate solution you'll get reds and golds. Just do some practice runs. You can always polish it off and try again. It's all done wet on wet. Once your happy with the result, rinse with hot water and let it dry. Dab on some linseed oil or spray with thin lacquer to preserve it.
Definitely doing this with my PW87!
I've NEVER had good results with Birchwood Casey cold blue. Your results are better than mine by far. These days I use some stuff sold by Brownells. Oxpho Blue I think it's called. Easy to use.
Birchwood casey is pretty good. I see good results with Oxpho as well. I still want to try Mark Lee Express blue. I hear it is similar to Slow Rust bluing but much faster.
I'll have to try the other product you mentioned. The Mark Lee stuff. I have had the best results with the Oxpho Blue, but even that isn't as good as a factory blue job. I do smithing part time, but mostly the blue is for touch up of things I've done machine work on. Good video, thanks for posting!
Thomas Liemohn you can actually see how well the finish comes out on the Charger Guides I recently made for a Winchester 1895 Russian Musket if you search for my account on Instagram probably. I have a couple of short videos on them there. They were blued with Birchwood.
I have had good results as well as bad with Birchwood Casey over the years. I mostly use it for touch ups, but once in a while I run out of Oxpho and have to resort. I have found if you use a good detergent and scrub the peace between coats rinse and heat dry the Birchwood Casey works much better.
Ocoho Blue works pretty good. I used it to reblue a set of barrels on my old Stevens 311 H. Had a bit of a swirly pattern if the light hits it a certain way. Also the more coats applied the richer the color. I took a hair dryer to heat the barrels to absorb the bluing then would hang the barrels in front of the fire place each night after application. It really darkened the color. This was about a week long process.
Great video! Thank you!
Thank you.
Great video I will give this a try
Let me know how it goes
Thanks for sharing this. I've been trying to figure out how to duplicate this finish for restoring older machinist tools.👍
The best would be to actually case harden those but this would probably work for the look alike only
@@MosinVirus
Thanks
What produces the color when case hardening? I have a powder called cherry red, but don't know how to attain that.
@@James-fs4rn in color case hardening the different colors are achieved by having different amount of heat in different spots on the workpiece. The parts are packed with charcoal and other materials into a sealed container which then goes into the kiln at a certain temp for a certain time. Then the parts are dumped into water. You can find videos on the process.
@@MosinVirus I watch Larry Potterfield do it. Equipment looks very expensive.
Yes, proper color case hardening requires some equipment for sure.
Good job! Looks nice
Thank you very much
This looks awesome I think I'm going to actually try that someone of those cheap little heritage revolvers See how it comes out
Nice! You can color me impressed!!!
Thank you.
Looks great!
Yes, I was really surprised by the outcome.
Yes, it was very interesting. Thanks.
My pleasure.
Any plans to do more revolvers in the future? I know you've restored at least a couple revolvers in the past.. it would be a cool project to apply this cool technique to.
No plans to do any revolvers yet, sorry.
Yes. That was interesting. And, I might try it on an old breakover shotgun... which has lost the color case hardening colouration due to time, typical wear from use, minor surface rust...and aggressive cleaning.
Unfortunate that the actual color case hardening lost the color. This method could be used to fake it, but I think you may want to lacquer over it to keep the colors longer. Try on some spare parts or hidden areas first.
I don't know if you tried this or not, but if you're not happy with the way your shotgun turned out, check out a channel called "Steel FX". I used his product to restore an old H&R pistol that was originally had a color cade hardened finish. It turned out great.
Bob Ross called.
He gave your video two thumbs up but said put in more trees next time.
Will do.
Also the handle on the back and front would look great also,especially with some mother of pearl grips.
A very good effect you have there, and it would also be a way of colouring up areas that it would not be wise to apply heat too, for some reason a lot of gun butchers love to cook everything up with heat, not considering that they are ruining the heat treatment of the part, your cold blue method is safe, and effective, and with a clearcoat spray will look better than a lot of case hardened finishes.
Thank you. Apparently this method was discussed in some gunsmithing articles so it is valid. I just found it out by accident and wanted to share right away. I think a lot of people can do a lot of cool things with it like you said.
Up to 150 degrees you are not going to ruin anything with heat, running bullets through it and it gets hotter than that. Stop generalizing.
@@stoneblue1795 I am not quite sure what your problem with my statement is, no one will have a problem when heating to 150 degs C, but then there would be very little point in heating to that temperature as there would be no colour change, my comment was directed at the people that heat up heat treated parts to way over that temperature and think they are just colouring parts, whereas they are changing the strength of the part, and potentially making it weaker, especially if it is case hardened.
been watching your Beretta 92 videos and I've been thinking on doing this to the slide of mine. Any input?
This finish doesn't offer a whole lot of protection against rust, even when it is not a faux finish. They were usually lacquered to actually protect the metal and the color. I would suggest going with functional protection on a gun you plan to use.
Looks good man
Thank you
Looks gud!!!! I think I'll try that on my Ruger new Vaquero!!
Thank you. Let me know how it goes
Nice idea. Thanks.
My pleasure.
Very impressive!
It was pretty interesting to see that effect appear by accident for sure.
holy shit! i need to do this that's incredible!
It does look pretty interesting for sure.
very very interesting. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for you video.
My pleasure.
Awesome video, ive been trying to find some way to color case
Glad I could help
Is there sufficient bluing to protect the surface/prevent rust. Bought an ESEE 5 with the intent to put a convex edge on it, strip, and then ... I'm not sure. Until I saw this video, I was going back and forth between bluing or a high polish. Or perhaps a high polish and then bluing. Have you tried this technique on a 1095 knife?
The method shown in the video offers virtually no protection. Even cold blue when done properly offers little protection. Parkerizing is my favorite finish due to ease, and slow rust blue is awesome but time consuming.
Excellent video. Do you think you'd get a similar result on non ferrous metal with the Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black?
Thank you. I am not sure, but don't think those will have the same spectrum of colors.
Very cool! I'm quite tempted to try this on my cheaper 1911
It should work, as long as it is not stainless.
@@MosinVirus nice 👍 I've been loving your channel btw, only recently saw your stuff. Keep up the great content!
@@nonapplicable1013 thank you very much
I found this video looking to do the exact same thing did u ever do it and how did it turn out if you did?
Thanks for the great video! I have Cimarron 1872 Open Top that I was not fully satisfied with the case color finish, way to thin and lacking depth. I tried your method using the came cold blue, actually before I found your video, and it certainly helped a lot but my job doesn't have the blue and brown color yours does. Mine looks good but the darkening is mostly just smoke and black. I'm still pleased with the improvement, but love the color in yours. How do you get the color? Thanks!
I think slowing down the transformation is key. Maybe even having a bit of oil from the hands on the part will make the color change slower, since first the solution will be degreasing the surface.
Thanks, I try that next time. Don’t want to screw up what I’ve got. 👍
Приветствую.
Настоящая цветная калка - это очень красиво, спору нет. Да и механическая прочность у такого покрытия весьма неплоха - достаточно вспомнить штучные ружья советских времен... А вот имитации... Я, например, их вообще не люблю. Тем паче, учитывая, что техпроцесс цветной калки, с одной стороны, вроде бы, не так уж и сложен (ёмкость с углём, выдержка при определённой температуре, резкое охлаждение), но с другой - качественный результат получается у единичных мастеров. У нас сейчас её не делает, по-моему, уже никто. Старики, кто умел, ушли, а передать своё умение было некому. Поскольку мОлодеж и пОдростки, как 20 - 25 лет назад, так и сейчас, не хотят руками работать...
У вас, насколько я знаю, не наберётся и сотни, кто пытается, а тех, у кого что-то приличное получается, так вообще меньше десятка... Хотя оно и понятно - на пластиковой раме её не сделаешь, да и на затворе, на эту раму одетом, она нафиг не нужна... Дюракоат, керамика...
Я пару лет назад на выставке в Гостинном дворе просто не мог отойти от стенда каких-то, по-моему, итальянцев, на котором лежал карабин из "артиллерийского" парабеллума (новодел, причём) в гравировке и цветной калке... Это был просто шедевр, глаз не оторвать! А мне его ещё и в руках подержать дали! :D
Согласен абсолютно. Кстати есть достаточно много видео по этой закалке. Там помоему еще кожные шмотки пользуются с углем и что то еще для вариации температуры. Я просто случайно получил этот эффект и решил показать.
Great to know, thinks for sharing.
My pleasure!
@@MosinVirus Just debating on doing my Desert Eagle Undercover, I really like case hardened look, but I've come to think it's better to go sparring it looks best. I've seen entire 1911 pistols done entirely and it was a little overwhelming
If I did this to a barrel, would the heating up of the barrel mess with any sort of coating or lacquer coating?
Probably but it depends on how much of temp the lacquer can withstand.
So once you get the color case hardened look, if you blue it would the pattern remain? Besides oiling or lacquering it, what would you do to keep it from rusting?
Lacquer is probably the best bet.
Hey man! you do incredible work! i was wondering if i could ask you a couple questions about building 80% handguns in california (i too live in socal). I want to get in to building 1911's but have heard conflicting opinions as to its legality in CA. Thank you!
I am not certain about the serialization anymore. Not sure if the law about having to request a serial number went into effect already. To be absolutely safe you should build the gun in single shot configuration first. There are a few ways to do that.
it's legal but you have to be the one that build it 100% plus if it's being built after a july 2018??? you have to get a special number from the doj i believe to put on the gun. and a size they want you to use. if you made it long ago you can use whatever you want for a number and builders address at the time of the build. look this up.
thinking of doing this to my chopper frame, way kool
It would look cool but remember that it doesn't offer a whole lot of protection for the carbon steel. Usually color case hardening was lacquered over to actually protect the finish and the steel under it.
make sure you clear coat it.
Well, I was just going to send a part in for case colouring, not I don't have to. Good job.
I would recommend you still send it out. Because a true CCH will surface harden the part. This faux method I showed is just for looks.
What kind of steel are you using? I tried this on an old shotgun but I can't seem to get any other colors other than blue. Does polishing the steel have a major effect?
I didn't this on a piece of 4140. This was my first attempt after I accidentally discovered the effect. So I haven't worked out a 100% instruction.
Some old shotguns are cast iron instead of steel
damascus steel may not work.
Hello, can you recommend the best lacquer to seal the color?
This is what I have seen people recommend. www.insituconservation.com/en/products/metal_varnishes/incralac_600
there is only one kind of lacquer, nitro cellulose
@@lifeingeneral9111 Read the wikipedia entry for lacquer to learn how your statement is incorrect.
I have for years used the case color varnish sold my galazan...connecticut shotgun makers' One bottle shluld last you the rest of your life.
Clear cerakote works great. Clear cerakote is a air cure, so it is really easy to apply and it will be a great anti-corrosion and abrasion protection
that was fun. might have to use that on a project. hey, where have you been?
Thank you. I was just super busy with work lately. It is finally cooling down a bit and I will be posting videos more regularly. Had the urge to make some knives, so that is coming up.
Super! Who needs Doug Turnbull when we have mosinvirus?
I wish I could do what Doug can.
thats kool looks great ..
Thank you very much
cool might have to try that
Yes, give it a try on scrap first.
Did it rust after words ? I heard after you apply the bluefish. You need to rub it down with a little bit of water so it doesn’t rust.
No, it still looks like it did when I made the video. Oiling is needed to prevent rust.
Pretty cool
Thank you.
You did a great job! I've been experimenting with a similar process, but unfortunately my color patters are drowned out by a strong brown overtone. No idea how to get the brown overtone to go away, or lessen so I can see my color pattern. Any tips? If you need to see it, I made a video, I'll just need to upload it. Thanks.
I didnt spend the time to really figure out how to control color. This was just a "look what happens" video. Hope you figure it out on yours. When the video is up, please reply with a link so we can all check it out.
@@MosinVirus Thanks. I will do that... it ended up rusting over even though I used oil, so I will try again within a week and post it.
@@Mr_Smith88 gotta love that rust patina. 2 yrs later curious if you ever got it to work out for you?
@@travisj.1938 I did actually. Got a really nice pattern on my glock but since then I went thru divorce and lost everything including my laptop. I forgot about this post honestly.
@@Mr_Smith88 omg I am so sorry to hear that man. Will be sure to include you in my prayers, do not worry though you can get it all back man. I have had to rebuild after breakups a few times myself. You can do it, it'll just take you a minute. Bright side is at least you got out of it sooner than later ya know.
Tincture of Benzoin and a torch gives excellent results also.
Thank you. I will check it out if I have a chance.
If you have access to Bill Holmes gunsmith books you will find instructions on how to do it. I can't remember the details regarding the process but I've seen the results which are quite remarkable.
@@chapiit08 thank you very much.
What do you recommend to grind a finish off before starting?
All depends on the existing finish
sometimes accidents are good lol. I'm going to try this on a knife.
Oh yes... The kitchen knife blue gem
If you let that sit an then blue like cold blueing process would the black completely cover those colors
It will be blotchy. Best thing to do is to remove this effect before bluing if you want it to look good.
Hoping you still reply!
I for some reason can't get it to work. I'm trying it on a steel ring I made and it pretty much only colours grey. Sometimes I get it to become somewhat blue, but it gets some cloudy stuff over it. When I then wipe that away, the colour also fades.
But even when I get a colour, it is not nearly as vivid as yours.
Not sure what could be going differently. Try oiling the surface first. Bluing solutions are also degreasers so they should cut through the fine oil film. And perhaps dilute the solution a little more.
@@MosinVirus Hey Mosin!
Thanks for the tip! I had a couple retries at the blueing, and I finally got a very nice blue undertone. Adding the oil really slowed down the chemical process, so I could accurately control the colouring stage.
The ring I made is definitely still very dark though. Not at all the vivid colours you have sadly. Maybe it's because we have different steel types? But I'm happy with it. The birthday girl is getting it today!
I have another question! What do you recommend for how often it should be oiled (keeping in mind that it's going to be worn)? Or would you recommend a clear coat?
I also want to say: thank you very very much for this video!
@@jhygdefghsd7011 definitely a clear coat. And I am glad I could help.
I'm about to do this on an old mossberg 500 that I sanded down.
A dual colored 45 ACP a slide like this and a blued slide or Vs versa
Or even a colored frame like thos and a digi cammo cerra coat slide this would celebrate the history of a over a hundred years of the 1911
Personally I don't like this kind of finish on a 1911, but maybe this video will get someone to try it out on one.
www.wilsoncombat.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/custom-commanders.jpg
Does it still protect the metal?
No. Neither does Color case hardening, not from rust anyway. This is more of an aesthetic thing. The color case hardened guns used to be lacquered to keep the finish looking good and also to protect the surface from the elements and wear.
MosinVirus thanks brother your a wealth of information.
Came for the CSGO references in the comments
Stayed for visually appealing video
Glad you liked the video.
I've been wanting to do this to my ak receiver. Was wondering if a spray of clear coat over it to keep that "wet" look would be bad.
I believe all color case hardened pieces are lacquered. If not all then most are.
Powder coating may be more durable as it is a layer of melted polymer.
MosinVirus what coat would you recommend?
It would depend on what you are trying to accomplish - traditional Russian style AK or something "new". Personally I would parkerize or blue.
Yugo rifles are blued. Pretty much every other AK is painted.
Powder coating is not a good idea on a firearm
I'd reallyyy love to build an ar that's case hardened color, but I don't know how possible that is for an ar upper and lower
This wouldn't work on aluminum. But I believe there are other methods of reproducing this look on aluminum.
Nice!
Thank you
would like to know if i can do tghis on an aluminium framed gun. any tips or info would be great.
I don't think you could do this to aluminum. Plus with aluminum frames you want more protection and surface hardness. Anodizing is a way to go.
However with anodizing (type 2 that you can do at home) and some diluted dyes it may be possible.
you could probably apply some kind of oil or chemical to prevent the anodizing. apply it in some patterns like case hardening, and then go back and anodize the rest.
Can you tell me which agent/mixture to use, and on what kind of iron exactly
I used Birchwood Casey super blue and the steel has to be carbon steel.
@@MosinVirus alright, thank you!
I watched it being done. But I am not sure that it is possible. Seriously, that is a fine job. Q tips and Super Blue are going to be in short supply.
Yea, I also had no idea that was possible. Figured showing it would prove that it can be done.
How long would that finished stay for ??
It is still there. And I didn't clear coated it.
Now, is this permanent or would you need to heat the metal?
The original and authentic color case hardening colors come front differential heating of steel. This only simulates the colors. The original used to be lacquered to protect the colors from rubbing off, this faux simulation would also need to be lacquered to not rub off.
Thank you for sharing !
I have a car I am taking to bare metal -Not a "cool" car though. Just an art car for advertising my art. I just might use this technique !
I'm not sure it could be of use, but I feel like I should return the favor and tell you about something I accidently came across. I'm not sure what you would use it for, but here goes : Take some rusty metal ( but smooth - not too rusty ) and apply some paint to it in several thick layers. Let it set ouside for a month or two in the elements. Let it rust.
Peel the paint off, and you have strips of actual rust stuck to the back of the strips like rusted tape.
You can then apply it to areas you want to have a rusty texture, but without actually damaging the item with rust.
Do I have any examples or videos ? Sorry - no.
As of now, I have not created any rust strips. It's just something I happened to come across on some old lawn chairs and thought might be useful.
Thank you very much. I will definitely try this myself. And yes, as the name implies, that is what got me started in guns.
Do you need to degrease the part that you are applying the super blue to?
I don't remember.
I would be interested is seeing it in 30 or 60 days to see if it fades or changes
I could do another update though I am not spraying it with lacquer. Even better, email me to remind me to take a look and I can send you pictures. Mosin.Virus@gmail.com
Deal
By the way, so far no change. Colors are strong. I don't think they will fade.I am very tempted to try and coat the block with something to see if the refraction will change and if the colors will become visible at all angles.
MosinVirus great so its still looking good ?
Walt Lars looks exactly the same so far. The only thing I don't like is that it is difficult to see the colors from some angles. That is why I was thinking of coating it with something transparent to see if it will make it easier to see the colors. However, that would interfere with the fading test so I am holding off, though I don't see a way for it to change over time unless it is exposed to the harsh elements.
I want to achieve this surface with heat treatment and tempering, Can anyone guide me at what temperature and by which process i can get this (Goldish colour plus uneven black spots) surface.
ua-cam.com/video/sFWLQeTCJ4s/v-deo.html
I know this is quite an old video, but would this work over cerakote?
Cold bluing or bluing of any kind needs exposed carbon steel.
@@MosinVirus Appreciate it, my friend!
Would gun cleaners and lubricants take that off?
They shouldn't
mustard, ketchup, even mayo will do the same. leave it on for an hour... then rinse... that's all.
Thank you.
Id try everything in the fridge … under the sink too. but certain non ferrous metals need special effects materials to successfully stain/alter/etch those metals.... ie.. .stainless. youtube has it all.
VERY COOL but easy to overdo or underdo ? But I guess thats where the artizan part comes in great stuff
It actually gives you quite a bit of time. Most of the video was real speed, some was 2x. Of course practice would make it better. I discovered the effect yesterday and produced it for the first time while actually trying today. It would be a good exercise for someone to first learn how these colors behave, and then using a picture of real color case hardening as a template to try and reproduce the pattern.