Buy the limited GN wireframe shirt! store.gamersnexus.net/products/limited-wireframe-shard-cotton-t-shirt Find Jay here: ua-cam.com/users/Jayztwocents Hey all -- was very sick the last two days (and a bit the week leading up to that) but finally starting to turn it around, so should be back to normal daily content schedule in the next few days, plus a return to testing/benchmarking. Thanks for your patience! LTX was a lot of fun, but I need to remember to bring my hazmat suit next time! We think it's all part of Linus' evil strategy to spread sickness to his competition!
Blame amd. And it blows my mind that pc guys never heard of a waterfilter (fish tank). There are so many filter systems and sizes. Be the first on youtube to test it. Btw no more wc for me, dual noctua nh-d15, one on the cpu and one on my gtx1080ti.
No worries man, hell I thought you were just taking a break after all the crazy new product reviews recently, you definitely deserve one dude, hope your 100% soon!
Commercial Coffee machine cleaning chemicals and descalers are worth a look for liquid cooled systems. Cheap option is Citic Acid for lime or calcium scale.
I love Steve's interviews. He's so good at leading the conversation and keeping people "flowing" information about their expertises. Definitely a true journalist.
Here are my tips from 15 years of water cooling. Leaks are pretty uncommon so don't stress put too much about them (definitely do a leak test though). When leaks do occur these seem to be the most common causes. 1. Forgetting the o-ring, always double check it didn't accidentally fall off. 2. Broken rotary fittings. 2. Cracked acetal from overtightening. Seriously, be careful when tightening into acetal you can crack it with just hand tightening and it's going to be a bad time.
Jay's the most interesting person in the tech space on UA-cam. He's a unique personality who's as knowledgeable as anyone in the space, but fits in the "layman's" market of viewers: where you're not a child (Linus' market), but not necessarily concerned about extreme details (GN).
If you don't want problems with your fluid only use stuff you can see thru. I have had EK blue fluid in my system for about a year and a half and have had no problems at all with it.... I use soft tube from premochill.
When Jay was talking about non-conductive coolant becoming conductive over time and I looked over at my PC and saw the RGB strip for the CPU cooler was having an uncommon blinking happening, so I walked over to the PC and the light started smoking; It was a God shot.
I honestly prefer jay like this. I understand him doing more production based stuff and making jokes but I prefer just listening to a guy, who knows his s**t, talk about the s**t he knows. No drama no bs.
Well I am a 25yrs old male, so exactly the main audience of JayzTwoCents and you wanna know what I like about his channel? All the Information he gives you in his funny unique way. And you know what, I even enjoy the farting noises.
@MrGhost370 39 yo male and yes, fart noises are still as funny as they were 30 years ago. I'm somewhat sorry for you if you're really that dead inside. What happened?
MrGhost370 it’s kind of ironic that you attack other adults for having a different sense of humor from you, when having such a bad attitude is often likened to the “terrible twos.” When it comes to maturity, I think I’d rather have the humor of a “six year old” than the attitude of a two year old. Either way, being an angry, toxic person is the exact opposite of having “grown up.” So you’ve got a different sense of humor from other people, that’s fine. That does not mean your sense of humor is superior or more mature, and certainly shouldn’t be a reason for being so toxic to others.
If Jay needs to go to Crest then you Steve NEEDS to go to Head and Shoulders. If they dont sponsor you guys they are crazy. Id buy head and shoulders over my current brand if they were indeed a sponsor. Video was also amazing as always.
That box fan video was epic. Got me interested in stupid cooling and overclocking experiments. Did one where I dunked an AIO radiator in a bath of ice water.
I have always used FDA grade silicone hoses and automotive coolant. Have been using the same loop for the most part since 04 and only changed the coolant 3 times since then, and the pump was replaced in 08. Back then the pumps would be main powered aquarium pumps and that eventually wore out and got noisy so I have some brand 12v pump that no longer exists in its place. Apart from changing GPU blocks with upgrades and the coolant every 5 years or so it hasn't missed a beat!
3800Tech Do you know how automotive coolant compares to computer fluids in terms of cooling efficiency and corrosion? And the coolant you’re using hasn’t damaged any of your stuff?
@@miraflynn8935 Automotive coolant is usually standard water glycol mix with biocide (often borax, not copper) and sometimes anticorrosion additive. It has a bit more glycol than you'd want for best heat transfer (preferably zero), but not all that much more. Silicone tubing is very elastic and will slip most kinds of compression fittings. Use with the christmas tree plus band only.
silicon is kinda immortal. i admit it gets some permanent bad bends after 25 years of service but hey still working fine. pump is a 3€ pump from aliexpress, i got so surprised by the performance at just 5V (never had a stalled rotor) i got another one as a spare when it will inevitably break. never a problem with barb fittings with no compression i'm now using an arduino to control both fans and the pump using a hybrid PID with a custom board using 2x mosfets from a dead motherboard. :) oh, the pump is in a beer glass with tap water, 1 year running fine. the wire has started to wear down a bit, there's a clear discoloration. 240 rad, 200W+ max water temp i got was 41C with 30C+ ambient (italy summer hammers OC) with fans (el cheapo industrial fans) at max and pump at like 10V but it's pwm, hard to say for sure.
@@emperorSbraz The main reason for the band is for higher pressure (you don't have that in small pump) and to prevent mishaps with the piping if moving anything. The problem with $3 pumps is that you are likely to get a QC fail. But in a redundant system, this makes a lot of sense. As long as pressure, flow rate, radiator, block contact and fans (if needed) are sufficient, any ambient cooking system will have similar performance, give or take few degrees. Only at high thermal powers you have to be careful. E.g. I have a system designed for 1200W continuous, so your setup would lack in that setting.
@@AstralS7orm naah it bent because it does a hard turn against a non-standard atx psu i shoved in there recently and the case is from the late 90s. :D the previous psu went kaboom because sustained 160% power target on the 670 during the hottest days of summer was a bad idea. likely? i'd say GUARANTEED to get an early pump failure on such crappy part, that's why on top of having a spare i'm also sticking temp sensors on the blocks to detect a pump failure, arduino will first warn with lights and go 100%pwm, then beep HARD, then short the soft power button with a transistor forcing a shutdown. arduino is powered by the 12V rail off the psu so it won't turn back on. fan/pump speeds are controlled by a submerged insulated thermistor, hence the two additional sensors. for sure i'd have a hard time cooling 5x the power i got now but it's mainly a problem of radiating surface. adding 5x more 240 rads (or equivalent) would then for sure impede the flow a lot with such tiny pump but i would just have a large enough common reservoir to house multiple pumps for dedicated radiator circuits to cope with flow resistance, kinda like what i did with the athlon xp using 2x230V pumps... but then again i agree a 1200W system deserves some proper dank cooling solution. :) for myself i'd still go ghetto everything, i'm a diy-all cheapskate. :D
Agreed, I will not go back to Opaque fluids, especially after having to clean out all of the white powdery stuff that started to coat all of my tubes as well as the blocking the cooling fins on my CPU block.
This video is must watch for newbies in watercooling, having just built my first custom watercooling loop I can relate to most of the things they just mentioned. Thanks for making this content Steve and collabing with Jay.
Thank you for this. About to embark on my first water cooled build (first build in twenty years too) and I come upon two of my most respected gurus discussing a lot of what I need to know.
Jay the thermostat in your car is only used for warmup of the engine and prevents flow through the radiator until it reaches the t-stat opening temp which is usually around 180 F. After that point it's always open so there is actually constant flow and the temp will basically equalize as it does in a water cooling loop. The temp change you're noticing is only a result of airflow through the radiator either as a result of the fans coming on or physical air flow at higher speed. Goes to show the importance of airflow through the radiator but the same thing would happen on a water cooling loop if you manually switched the fans on and off as far as temps are concerned but the flow is in fact constant with respect to the water pump speed/engine RPM.
That’s not true at all in most cases. The radiator is nowhere near capacity at 180+ degrees for regular street driving. Without a thermostat most cars would run significantly cooler than 180 degrees, especially in colder months.
@@spddmn24 My point is the thermostat doesn't open and close during operation. Once it reaches about 180F it starts opening and remains open while the engine is hot. It may not be open all the way but it certainly doesn't open and close while the engine is hot.
These are great. I can't believe you are the only one there who figured out to make these great focused collabs during LTX. The business side of LTX and a youtube company with Linus was some great content. Also, the in-depth discussion with der8auer over his discoveries on thermal paste was awesome.
I love when they can work together instead of putting one another down. Some "Newer" content creators should take notice instead of spuing hate in every other video. Great video Steve, you and Jay should make more videos together!
I used redline water wetter in a system for 7 years and never changed it and never had a leak using a thermal take cooler setup and flexible clear tubing and zip ties
I used Mayhems XT1 Nuke Clear with Rubber Tubing and all Cooper rads for 5 years without needing any kind of maintenance. No build-ups, no gunk, no corrosion at all.
Soft Tygon 3/8 5/8 is my go-to when I've water-cooled a previous system and I'll be using it again soon for a DIY-AIO (Eisbaer-tubing-THICC 240 block with a makeshift fill-port on a side inlet.
Steve: remember when you were in the Beatles and in Abby road that one song the End you said the love you take is equal to the love you make? Jay: sure Steve: is that true?
@Brian Thermaltake view 71, I so much wanted The Tower 900 but they were sold out here and I missed out on the last one by a couple of days. I'll post my build on my channel when its complete. :)
Avoid aluminium components in your loop, this includes rads and waterblocks even if they're nickel coated D5 pumps are more reliable and quieter to run than DDC pumps and usually provide more pressure Make sure your reservoir outlet leads to the pump inlet and ideally it should be above the pump to allow gravity to feed the fluid to it Buy more tubing than you need, not just the right amount, you may need to redo a cut or use a piece to fill/drain the loop, this also goes for the distilled water, get extra. Plain water is best with the least problems, add either some biocide or a strip of silver in the reservoir to kill bacteria Colourants and dies will stain your plastic tubing and acrylic blocks, be prepared to disassemble the loop to clean them if you want to change the fluid to a different colour and blocks will need to be dismantled to be properly cleaned out Plan out a proper drainage point for the loop, usually this will be the lowest point in the loop and using a ball valve fitting will make life so much easier when you want to drain it
Grab an AIO and soft tubing. Use something like distilled water, XSPC additive and XSPC reservoir. Tell EK to go f__k themselves with high prices. Use the KISS system, (Keep It Simple Stupid) and things will work out great.
@@MurphyOCP-001 Yes, turn an AIO into a loop. You people waste all this money on EK and the likes... Oh wait, you fools are probably running Intel furnaces and need an damn chiller. My bad bro....
@@ragingmonk6080 I did that with a H220 years ago. Flow rate and head pressure on those DDC pumps isn't great and can't keep up with expanded loops as well as a D5 can. Plus they're much louder compared to D5's even at full speed. If you're going to build a full loop there are plenty of brands cheaper than EK and almost as good that do a better job than an expanded AIO.
@@MurphyOCP-001 As I stated. If you run Intel, you need something more. They draw way more power then they should. I have ran my Ryzen 1600x at 4.0 for two years on a custom loop made from an AIO. It is silent. I hear my central air over it. K.I.S.S. system is the best, unless you have a chip that needs deep freeze.
I've found ek cryofuel to be great had it in my old system for 4 years and had zero drop out got it I'm my new system now acid green UV reactive looks great
first time, building a system i was amazed at how hard it was to get the hard tube angles, looking at you ek pump rez with your weird ass angles . Also found the 570 crystal corsair doesn't have much room for a novice to work with.
Can one of you guys do a comparison of a custom loop vs an AIO. Like how much money and what temperatures you get for each. I've tried looking but no one has done it
Its not so much as to how much cooler a custom loop is over an AIO as it is the gained thermal mass, if AIO's started adding reservoirs to their loops and good copper brass rads, better pumps then they would be alot better then they are. Once full heat saturation is reached on the average 1-2 rad custom loop the diffrence is a custop loop may be a few degrees cooler if it has more rad capacity, better fans, better blocks, more liquid and such. Those few degrees can make quite a diffrence when pushing to the limits of an overclock reliably. But the main aim of custom water loops is time, custom water cooling can take hours to reach peak tempature rather then 20 minutes for an AIO or almost instant for convetional air heat sink. This also works in reverse the greater the thermal mass also the longer it takes to cool back down when load is removed.
@@omgpwnz1 The key benefits of AIO are ease of implementation and pricing. Adding more gear and features would increase the price and begin to limit potential applications because of space concerns. Most people don't work their systems hard enough to justify the heavy duty cooling capacity of a well designed custom loop. I think AIOs have the balance about right as you get a very nice benefit over air cooling (noise and/or performance) at quite a friendly price. I'm rockin' a Ryzen 3600 and cooling it with an X42 AIO from NZXT. I could have spent less on a better performing AIO, but I wanted the infinity pool RGB thing in my rig.
@@jimr5703 the way I see it is AIO is a bane on cpu cooling as it has pushed prices up for custom open loop cooling to create a swelling market for themselfs when they should not cost much more then a high end noctua air cooler. there used to be affordable custom loop kits with 600L/h pumps all copper for the same price as what they charge now for the more expensive AIO's did the price of these componets go up the past decade? no companies just got more greedy. most are all the same forced by a asetek USA pattent that means only they can sell theirs in the USA, innovation and improvement in the AIO space has been stagnated. yes there are nice to haves with an AIO but when they charge what they charge they need to perform alot better then what they do, aluminum dose not cost more then copper so why are people paying for it like it dose?.
You know, I've seen a lot of hate and disdain for the EVGA Nu Audio in forums, but I think it sounds great. I was having interference issues with my onboard sound, and I figured I'd get an upgrade...no regrets! It's excellent if you have a nice set of headphones.
I feel like you guys can make an entire video just talking about coolents and their side effects. It's really useful information that not many people know a lot about.
Jay is such a damn stud...I mean, he's so comfortable on screen and just radiates,"I'm the shit." without saying, "I'm the shit." I mean damn, even Steve looks at him like he's a legend...
One additional thing I ran into with an AIO but relevant for any Radiator-build. Motherboard VRMs. If you topmount the Rad, make sure rad+fans clear the motherboard VRMs. Can't use it otherwise. For me that is 52mm. Can't fit anything that is fatter than that.
I thought about custom loops for the looks and hobbyist aspect. I have a 2700x and was actually reluctant to ditch the stock cooler because it did an okay job and looks really good, but what made me decide to upgrade it was the noise. In the end I went for an air cooler. A Noctua NH-U12A. Not pretty but performs almost as well as their NH-D15 or a 280mm AIO. It is really quiet too. I like the set and forget aspect. Make up for lack of bling with other parts. I actually turned out to like RGB after being a grumpy old man calling it a sales gimmick. if I was still a 20 year old I would definitely go custom loops though. These days I am less into hassles and fiddly things. I am the same about building a kitset clone of a vintage Marshall guitar amp. I want to do it, but I know the fiddly tasks that require me to wear my glasses will have me cussing for days on end until the job is done. No fun in that. I have decided to solder together a DIY fuzz pedal instead. Much easier. Bent the pins on my 2700x when fitting the cooler btw. Dropped it. Lost the B channel ram slots as a result. Pissed me off
I realize that guys on YT do hard tubing so they get that "look" but more of them need to state upfront that it isn't worth it for a gaming rig. I built one hard tube system in over 20 years of building custom loops and it was far more trouble than it was worth.
@@mrlescureI have absolutely no idea where you got that but not remotely true. I think you must have misheard something about it being easy to kink a line in soft tubing and get reduced water flow. But just plain reduced flow? Not a chance. A tube is a tube and the amount of water that flows through it is based on the pumps characteristics and the diameter of the tubing.
Soft tubing gets discolored and nasty looking over time and doesn't look anywhere near as nicenas the straight lines of rigid tube, particularly 16mm OD tube. I will say the only reason to bother with custom loops is for silence. The performance boost is negligible, but water cooling is far quieter, particularly with good static pressure fans and more radiator surface area than you actually need.
@@praetorxyn Wut? discolored? Are you keeping your rig in direct sunlight? Also a custom loop can absorb far more heat than any air cooler or AIO. That's why people actually use them, or at least why people who know WTF they're doing, use them. Just compare the reservoirs on AIO's and custom loops. That extra water means more mass and that means more sinking. As to silence, again WUT? Pumps are easily the loudest computer component besides crappy fans cheapskates buy. SP fans can get quite loud as well when running at 75 to 100%, which they should be unless you're just throwing money away by building a custom loop as a showpiece not to actually improve performance.
I have really good or rather no bad experience at all made with aqua computer double protect coolant. Water cooling system 7 years running no water change, no flakes particles or anything. I will definitely stay with that product!
I done some research, I did muh measuring and stuff. Nuffink, absolutely nuffink, prepares you for the little glitches, like the radiator plug that sits almost a centimeter out from the radiator tank and hence the radiator which you measured for headroom, available space, all that stuff, it won't sit flush against its fastening location on the case panel. Because its supplied radiator coolant screw-in plugs stick out against the panel and only one brandname manuf you know of makes radiators with a flush set screw-in plug... and this aint one of 'em. Cheapest option, buy a dremmel and grind some panel clearance.
Great video! Every video by you and j2c is worth a time to watch! All infos for PC world can be find on both channels. One thing I can't understand: why do people dislike this video? What is wrong with them??
Came here to say that. He looks like he could palm Steve's head. 😂 I've seen a number of videos with the two, and never noticed such a difference. (maybe it's a camera thing)
I still like the look of rigid tubing way too much. If I was reasonable I'd do air cooling, which has much higher price-to-performance ratio and much more reliable.
Soft tubing is less costly and safer because the fit is much tighter. It is also much easier to work with compared to hard tubing. The only thing that hard tubing has over soft tubing is cleaner look, that’s all.
@Conor while short, straight runs with flex tubing can have similarly clean looks, there is a definite difference in the look of the tube itself. Holding them side by side, you will notice a big difference in how clear each type is compared to others... Flex tubing has a bit of a cloudy appearance, with clarity increasing as you move to PETG, Acrylic, and finally Glass... The down side is that the more clear a tubing is, the more brittle it is...
great video...really like the look of custom loops. Nice to hear Jay call it "form before function" because the cost is prohibitive as well unless your going for a look
I'm still using soft tube on my current watercooling and 1st AMD build in over 10 years of watercooling stuff. I have some hard line fittings and I just said Naa. I like the flexibility of soft tube. I'm too cheap to buy Primochill fittings but I have been using the XSPC black chrome fittings as my last 3 builds. I did buy $100.00 solid copper nickel plated block and real strong D-5 pump and huge thick Nexcool copper 360 rads. I think those 3 things are where to spend your money for max cooling performance. tubing and fittings are just the pathway but I try to make it look good without paying 20.00 per fitting. To me that seems insane unless your in a pro show or some sponsored build. I too got away from colors and just use water and biocide with PG. I am waiting on my 1st white case the Lian Li X11 to get here and it all gets installed.
Industrial cooling towers often have a continual sample loop measuring conductivity, oxygen reduction potential, which us a way of measuring the primary biocide dosing (bromine). Sometimes they also sample for dosed scale inhibitor using a fluorometer to measure the concentration of fluorescent tracer mixed with the inhibitor. All this is continually monitored and dumped, refreshed and dosed accordingly as threshold triggers are met. Which seems way over the top for a pc build. I often wondered if lifelong, ready mixed coolant used in the automotive industry would suffice?
Loop order always makes a difference, but hardly ever matters. The hotter the water when it enters the radiator, the faster that heat will be dissipated into the air, which means the cooler it will be after passing through the radiator. CPU's are smaller than GPU's, so the thermal density of the interface is higher. Have the coolest water (after the radiator or radiators) hit the CPU first, then the GPU, and then (after any other blocks) go to the radiator(s). That will give you the best temperatures, though the difference will probably be too low to even notice at a 1C granularity.
Hi Steve and Jay if you are looking at doing a video on the basics of water cooling I would love it if you could review biocides also which ones are available in Australia as they can be very hard to get here. Also if you could do a piece on quick release fittings. I am about to put some in. I am hopping they will let me work on the system without having to drain it. Also I have been using a lot of connections from bykski and barrow which I have been getting from AliExpress just because it saves me between about 50% on the cost so maybe a review on those for us poor people:). Anyway thanks I really enjoyed and appreciate the work that you both do Eric
Your videos are excellently done and always provide valuable expertise in the hardware enthusiast space. It's unfortunate that I often choose to use these videos as background noise when I'm working since half the terminology is lost on me :P Seriously, thanks for all the effort you put in to travelling and bringing guests on; it matters even to non hardware geeks like myself to have fascinating topics discussed by people who know what they're talking about.
Ok it’s 2020 and a video showing the top manufacturer of custom water cooling equipment reviewed and tested would be nice as well as a build guide for each tested water cooling system and preform guides!
4:10 If your reservoir has air in it, the pressure inside the tubes can't rise. The air would be compressed too, but there is not enough expansion due to heat to decrease the volume of the air in the reservoir enough to be visible, so the pressure doesn't change either.
When half life 2 came out I watercooled my X800XT. I bought this bottle of liquid off the net that was AMAZING !!!! But discontinued weeks later. It weighed several times more than water. Was totally inert and non conductive that you could submerge working electrical appliances in it. It had no tension or meniscus. Being my first ever liquid setup, I was learning as I went and kit wasn’t what it is today and due to the lack of tension it leaks easier than water. It also evaporates very fast. It all leaked out of the tank joint and disappeared. Then I had to use fluid XP which was crap. I wish this was still available.
i got my i7-8700k and 2 1080 ti's and hyper 212 cpu cooler in 2018 with an oculus rift , and put it away. i recently decided i'm building it upside down, with the gpu water cooling blocks surfaces 3/8" from gpu inlet fans, and the cpu water cooler attached to top of hyper 212 with a 2nd added fan. soft tubing and reservoir on lowest point trying to have connections between reservoir/pump going upward no higher than top of reservoir fluid level. My radiators 2ea 120mm x 480mm will have long hoses so i can submerge them in ice water. i have pcie extender cables and getting a longer sli connector cable to enable the spacing. i don't wish to risk a leak on the electronics. the water pumps (1 for ice water circulation thru rads, 1 for cpu and gpu's) will have power switches. wrx or warp speed. i'm making my own case, out of old 1's. then i will shop for flight simulator stuff. flying over the dark side of the moon at 100' in a vessel was the best fun with the rift setup.
Looking into building a new system with the new Ryzen 7 7700 and a RTX 4XXX heater with my old water cooling loop. Nice to see that I don't need magic cooling liquid.
Buy the limited GN wireframe shirt! store.gamersnexus.net/products/limited-wireframe-shard-cotton-t-shirt
Find Jay here: ua-cam.com/users/Jayztwocents
Hey all -- was very sick the last two days (and a bit the week leading up to that) but finally starting to turn it around, so should be back to normal daily content schedule in the next few days, plus a return to testing/benchmarking. Thanks for your patience! LTX was a lot of fun, but I need to remember to bring my hazmat suit next time! We think it's all part of Linus' evil strategy to spread sickness to his competition!
Glad you're getting better!
Blame amd. And it blows my mind that pc guys never heard of a waterfilter (fish tank). There are so many filter systems and sizes. Be the first on youtube to test it. Btw no more wc for me, dual noctua nh-d15, one on the cpu and one on my gtx1080ti.
No worries man, hell I thought you were just taking a break after all the crazy new product reviews recently, you definitely deserve one dude, hope your 100% soon!
You caught the Linus collaboratus bug, he dropped it on you, sorry man hope you will be OK! 🤣
Commercial Coffee machine cleaning chemicals and descalers are worth a look for liquid cooled systems. Cheap option is Citic Acid for lime or calcium scale.
I wish my wife still looked at me the same way Steve looks at Jay
LOL that's golden
hahah shut up!
Hahahaha 10/10
Sorry my guy
So your wife is taller than you? 🤔
I was just gonna say that!
These two make a good team
Not quite 3 cents.
ROUNDDOWN.exe
More like 1 cents - Look at that shirt - Hes lost weight!
Steve has such a crush on Jay. ^^
They make a great team
Very wholesome~
Dude Steve you put in wooork at ltx. More content filmed there than anyone else by faaaar.
So you like Steve's Jobs?
Linus wasn't lying when he said GN were running the fuck around making videos the entire time. haha
I love Steve's interviews. He's so good at leading the conversation and keeping people "flowing" information about their expertises. Definitely a true journalist.
It's like the cool uncle with the smart nephew.
Dumbledore v. Hagrid.
@@somethingorother9263your a journalist ‘Arry!
Here are my tips from 15 years of water cooling. Leaks are pretty uncommon so don't stress put too much about them (definitely do a leak test though). When leaks do occur these seem to be the most common causes.
1. Forgetting the o-ring, always double check it didn't accidentally fall off.
2. Broken rotary fittings.
2. Cracked acetal from overtightening. Seriously, be careful when tightening into acetal you can crack it with just hand tightening and it's going to be a bad time.
4/5 dentists recommend but 5/5 pc enthusiasts recommend crest
I find it refreshing to see two of the greats interacting with each other like this. Thanks for the awesome content.
Gotta say, loving the collaboration video’s between Jay and GN. That and the playful jabs that go back and forth. Keep these coming when possible.
Jay's the most interesting person in the tech space on UA-cam. He's a unique personality who's as knowledgeable as anyone in the space, but fits in the "layman's" market of viewers: where you're not a child (Linus' market), but not necessarily concerned about extreme details (GN).
If you don't want problems with your fluid only use stuff you can see thru. I have had EK blue fluid in my system for about a year and a half and have had no problems at all with it.... I use soft tube from premochill.
Thanks for the tips dude!
Don't forget about plasticizer. That stuff can also gunk up your loop. Or just use plasticizer-free tubing like EPDM, Norprene or EK ZMT.
When Jay was talking about non-conductive coolant becoming conductive over time and I looked over at my PC and saw the RGB strip for the CPU cooler was having an uncommon blinking happening, so I walked over to the PC and the light started smoking; It was a God shot.
I honestly prefer jay like this. I understand him doing more production based stuff and making jokes but I prefer just listening to a guy, who knows his s**t, talk about the s**t he knows. No drama no bs.
@MrGhost370 Except my audience is over 60% Males 24-45yrs old. We just have a better sense of humor than you. And we know it.
Well I am a 25yrs old male, so exactly the main audience of JayzTwoCents and you wanna know what I like about his channel?
All the Information he gives you in his funny unique way. And you know what, I even enjoy the farting noises.
@MrGhost370 Who hurt you?
@MrGhost370 39 yo male and yes, fart noises are still as funny as they were 30 years ago. I'm somewhat sorry for you if you're really that dead inside. What happened?
MrGhost370 it’s kind of ironic that you attack other adults for having a different sense of humor from you, when having such a bad attitude is often likened to the “terrible twos.”
When it comes to maturity, I think I’d rather have the humor of a “six year old” than the attitude of a two year old.
Either way, being an angry, toxic person is the exact opposite of having “grown up.” So you’ve got a different sense of humor from other people, that’s fine. That does not mean your sense of humor is superior or more mature, and certainly shouldn’t be a reason for being so toxic to others.
If Jay needs to go to Crest then you Steve NEEDS to go to Head and Shoulders. If they dont sponsor you guys they are crazy. Id buy head and shoulders over my current brand if they were indeed a sponsor. Video was also amazing as always.
That box fan video was epic. Got me interested in stupid cooling and overclocking experiments. Did one where I dunked an AIO radiator in a bath of ice water.
I have always used FDA grade silicone hoses and automotive coolant.
Have been using the same loop for the most part since 04 and only changed the coolant 3 times since then, and the pump was replaced in 08. Back then the pumps would be main powered aquarium pumps and that eventually wore out and got noisy so I have some brand 12v pump that no longer exists in its place. Apart from changing GPU blocks with upgrades and the coolant every 5 years or so it hasn't missed a beat!
3800Tech Do you know how automotive coolant compares to computer fluids in terms of cooling efficiency and corrosion? And the coolant you’re using hasn’t damaged any of your stuff?
@@miraflynn8935 Automotive coolant is usually standard water glycol mix with biocide (often borax, not copper) and sometimes anticorrosion additive.
It has a bit more glycol than you'd want for best heat transfer (preferably zero), but not all that much more.
Silicone tubing is very elastic and will slip most kinds of compression fittings. Use with the christmas tree plus band only.
silicon is kinda immortal. i admit it gets some permanent bad bends after 25 years of service but hey still working fine.
pump is a 3€ pump from aliexpress, i got so surprised by the performance at just 5V (never had a stalled rotor) i got another one as a spare when it will inevitably break. never a problem with barb fittings with no compression
i'm now using an arduino to control both fans and the pump using a hybrid PID with a custom board using 2x mosfets from a dead motherboard. :) oh, the pump is in a beer glass with tap water, 1 year running fine. the wire has started to wear down a bit, there's a clear discoloration.
240 rad, 200W+ max water temp i got was 41C with 30C+ ambient (italy summer hammers OC) with fans (el cheapo industrial fans) at max and pump at like 10V but it's pwm, hard to say for sure.
@@emperorSbraz The main reason for the band is for higher pressure (you don't have that in small pump) and to prevent mishaps with the piping if moving anything.
The problem with $3 pumps is that you are likely to get a QC fail. But in a redundant system, this makes a lot of sense.
As long as pressure, flow rate, radiator, block contact and fans (if needed) are sufficient, any ambient cooking system will have similar performance, give or take few degrees. Only at high thermal powers you have to be careful. E.g. I have a system designed for 1200W continuous, so your setup would lack in that setting.
@@AstralS7orm naah it bent because it does a hard turn against a non-standard atx psu i shoved in there recently and the case is from the late 90s. :D the previous psu went kaboom because sustained 160% power target on the 670 during the hottest days of summer was a bad idea.
likely? i'd say GUARANTEED to get an early pump failure on such crappy part, that's why on top of having a spare i'm also sticking temp sensors on the blocks to detect a pump failure, arduino will first warn with lights and go 100%pwm, then beep HARD, then short the soft power button with a transistor forcing a shutdown. arduino is powered by the 12V rail off the psu so it won't turn back on.
fan/pump speeds are controlled by a submerged insulated thermistor, hence the two additional sensors.
for sure i'd have a hard time cooling 5x the power i got now but it's mainly a problem of radiating surface. adding 5x more 240 rads (or equivalent) would then for sure impede the flow a lot with such tiny pump but i would just have a large enough common reservoir to house multiple pumps for dedicated radiator circuits to cope with flow resistance, kinda like what i did with the athlon xp using 2x230V pumps... but then again i agree a 1200W system deserves some proper dank cooling solution. :) for myself i'd still go ghetto everything, i'm a diy-all cheapskate. :D
Agreed, I will not go back to Opaque fluids, especially after having to clean out all of the white powdery stuff that started to coat all of my tubes as well as the blocking the cooling fins on my CPU block.
This video is must watch for newbies in watercooling, having just built my first custom watercooling loop I can relate to most of the things they just mentioned. Thanks for making this content Steve and collabing with Jay.
good chemistry here imo
Thank you for this. About to embark on my first water cooled build (first build in twenty years too) and I come upon two of my most respected gurus discussing a lot of what I need to know.
:O It's Tech Jesus with Watercooling Moses! :D Best combo ever!
Jay the thermostat in your car is only used for warmup of the engine and prevents flow through the radiator until it reaches the t-stat opening temp which is usually around 180 F. After that point it's always open so there is actually constant flow and the temp will basically equalize as it does in a water cooling loop. The temp change you're noticing is only a result of airflow through the radiator either as a result of the fans coming on or physical air flow at higher speed. Goes to show the importance of airflow through the radiator but the same thing would happen on a water cooling loop if you manually switched the fans on and off as far as temps are concerned but the flow is in fact constant with respect to the water pump speed/engine RPM.
That’s not true at all in most cases. The radiator is nowhere near capacity at 180+ degrees for regular street driving. Without a thermostat most cars would run significantly cooler than 180 degrees, especially in colder months.
@@spddmn24 My point is the thermostat doesn't open and close during operation. Once it reaches about 180F it starts opening and remains open while the engine is hot. It may not be open all the way but it certainly doesn't open and close while the engine is hot.
These are great. I can't believe you are the only one there who figured out to make these great focused collabs during LTX. The business side of LTX and a youtube company with Linus was some great content. Also, the in-depth discussion with der8auer over his discoveries on thermal paste was awesome.
I love when they can work together instead of putting one another down. Some "Newer" content creators should take notice instead of spuing hate in every other video.
Great video Steve, you and Jay should make more videos together!
I used redline water wetter in a system for 7 years and never changed it and never had a leak using a thermal take cooler setup and flexible clear tubing and zip ties
Steve and Jay would make an adorable power couple.
Jay has never sounded more grown-up.
Steve: "you, and Paul, and kyle, you all make really good looking PC's..."
Jay: "Yup"
When you KNOW your shits good. 🤣
I used Mayhems XT1 Nuke Clear with Rubber Tubing and all Cooper rads for 5 years without needing any kind of maintenance. No build-ups, no gunk, no corrosion at all.
Steve be collecting the pantheon of PC builders on UA-cam
Soft Tygon 3/8 5/8 is my go-to when I've water-cooled a previous system and I'll be using it again soon for a DIY-AIO (Eisbaer-tubing-THICC 240 block with a makeshift fill-port on a side inlet.
Steve looks so nervous like he wants to build an extreme rig with jay 😁
yess been waiting for that updated water cooling guide. cant wait. thanks for the content steve
paused video at 4:59 made a coffee came back and LMFAO.
Steve: remember when you were in the Beatles and in Abby road that one song the End you said the love you take is equal to the love you make?
Jay: sure
Steve: is that true?
I Love these guys. Thanks for your work!
I'm about to assemble my first full hardline loop today. Already done quite much research but definitely gonna check this out too before I start 😁
Hell yeah! Jay and gamersnexus! Love y’all both! It’s the best when y’all do vids together! Y’all need to make this a regular thing!
They have quite often, but jay lives in LA and steve lives in n.c.
I'm finally starting my first custom water cooled build, its been a year just getting the bits together.
@Brian Thermaltake view 71, I so much wanted The Tower 900 but they were sold out here and I missed out on the last one by a couple of days. I'll post my build on my channel when its complete. :)
Avoid aluminium components in your loop, this includes rads and waterblocks even if they're nickel coated
D5 pumps are more reliable and quieter to run than DDC pumps and usually provide more pressure
Make sure your reservoir outlet leads to the pump inlet and ideally it should be above the pump to allow gravity to feed the fluid to it
Buy more tubing than you need, not just the right amount, you may need to redo a cut or use a piece to fill/drain the loop, this also goes for the distilled water, get extra.
Plain water is best with the least problems, add either some biocide or a strip of silver in the reservoir to kill bacteria
Colourants and dies will stain your plastic tubing and acrylic blocks, be prepared to disassemble the loop to clean them if you want to change the fluid to a different colour and blocks will need to be dismantled to be properly cleaned out
Plan out a proper drainage point for the loop, usually this will be the lowest point in the loop and using a ball valve fitting will make life so much easier when you want to drain it
Grab an AIO and soft tubing. Use something like distilled water, XSPC additive and XSPC reservoir. Tell EK to go f__k themselves with high prices. Use the KISS system, (Keep It Simple Stupid) and things will work out great.
@@ragingmonk6080 An AIO? Lol
@@MurphyOCP-001 Yes, turn an AIO into a loop. You people waste all this money on EK and the likes... Oh wait, you fools are probably running Intel furnaces and need an damn chiller. My bad bro....
@@ragingmonk6080 I did that with a H220 years ago. Flow rate and head pressure on those DDC pumps isn't great and can't keep up with expanded loops as well as a D5 can. Plus they're much louder compared to D5's even at full speed. If you're going to build a full loop there are plenty of brands cheaper than EK and almost as good that do a better job than an expanded AIO.
@@MurphyOCP-001 As I stated. If you run Intel, you need something more. They draw way more power then they should.
I have ran my Ryzen 1600x at 4.0 for two years on a custom loop made from an AIO. It is silent. I hear my central air over it. K.I.S.S. system is the best, unless you have a chip that needs deep freeze.
I'd love to hear you discuss what to do when/if something doesn't go as planned
thumbnail is the cutest 🥺
I've found ek cryofuel to be great had it in my old system for 4 years and had zero drop out got it I'm my new system now acid green UV reactive looks great
Finally found a block for my Zotac 1070 amp edition and I've been having some serious questions with fittings and tubing thanks for this!!!
first time, building a system i was amazed at how hard it was to get the hard tube angles, looking at you ek pump rez with your weird ass angles . Also found the 570 crystal corsair doesn't have much room for a novice to work with.
Can one of you guys do a comparison of a custom loop vs an AIO. Like how much money and what temperatures you get for each. I've tried looking but no one has done it
Cooling with a good AIO is very similar to a custom loop, but the reliability is far behind.
Its not so much as to how much cooler a custom loop is over an AIO as it is the gained thermal mass, if AIO's started adding reservoirs to their loops and good copper brass rads, better pumps then they would be alot better then they are.
Once full heat saturation is reached on the average 1-2 rad custom loop the diffrence is a custop loop may be a few degrees cooler if it has more rad capacity, better fans, better blocks, more liquid and such. Those few degrees can make quite a diffrence when pushing to the limits of an overclock reliably.
But the main aim of custom water loops is time, custom water cooling can take hours to reach peak tempature rather then 20 minutes for an AIO or almost instant for convetional air heat sink. This also works in reverse the greater the thermal mass also the longer it takes to cool back down when load is removed.
Their out of the box thermals are the same.
@@omgpwnz1 The key benefits of AIO are ease of implementation and pricing. Adding more gear and features would increase the price and begin to limit potential applications because of space concerns. Most people don't work their systems hard enough to justify the heavy duty cooling capacity of a well designed custom loop.
I think AIOs have the balance about right as you get a very nice benefit over air cooling (noise and/or performance) at quite a friendly price. I'm rockin' a Ryzen 3600 and cooling it with an X42 AIO from NZXT. I could have spent less on a better performing AIO, but I wanted the infinity pool RGB thing in my rig.
@@jimr5703 the way I see it is AIO is a bane on cpu cooling as it has pushed prices up for custom open loop cooling to create a swelling market for themselfs when they should not cost much more then a high end noctua air cooler. there used to be affordable custom loop kits with 600L/h pumps all copper for the same price as what they charge now for the more expensive AIO's did the price of these componets go up the past decade? no companies just got more greedy.
most are all the same forced by a asetek USA pattent that means only they can sell theirs in the USA, innovation and improvement in the AIO space has been stagnated.
yes there are nice to haves with an AIO but when they charge what they charge they need to perform alot better then what they do, aluminum dose not cost more then copper so why are people paying for it like it dose?.
Just look at Jay being shy and all not looking at the camera xD
You know, I've seen a lot of hate and disdain for the EVGA Nu Audio in forums, but I think it sounds great. I was having interference issues with my onboard sound, and I figured I'd get an upgrade...no regrets! It's excellent if you have a nice set of headphones.
i want someone to look at me like steve looks at jay.
I feel like you guys can make an entire video just talking about coolents and their side effects. It's really useful information that not many people know a lot about.
You can notice that GN is very passionate about this
Jay is such a damn stud...I mean, he's so comfortable on screen and just radiates,"I'm the shit." without saying, "I'm the shit." I mean damn, even Steve looks at him like he's a legend...
One additional thing I ran into with an AIO but relevant for any Radiator-build. Motherboard VRMs. If you topmount the Rad, make sure rad+fans clear the motherboard VRMs. Can't use it otherwise. For me that is 52mm. Can't fit anything that is fatter than that.
I thought about custom loops for the looks and hobbyist aspect. I have a 2700x and was actually reluctant to ditch the stock cooler because it did an okay job and looks really good, but what made me decide to upgrade it was the noise. In the end I went for an air cooler. A Noctua NH-U12A. Not pretty but performs almost as well as their NH-D15 or a 280mm AIO. It is really quiet too. I like the set and forget aspect. Make up for lack of bling with other parts. I actually turned out to like RGB after being a grumpy old man calling it a sales gimmick. if I was still a 20 year old I would definitely go custom loops though. These days I am less into hassles and fiddly things. I am the same about building a kitset clone of a vintage Marshall guitar amp. I want to do it, but I know the fiddly tasks that require me to wear my glasses will have me cussing for days on end until the job is done. No fun in that. I have decided to solder together a DIY fuzz pedal instead. Much easier. Bent the pins on my 2700x when fitting the cooler btw. Dropped it. Lost the B channel ram slots as a result. Pissed me off
MASTER OF VIDEOS!!! you two are just simply AMAZING !! Anyway soft or hard tubing guys?
I realize that guys on YT do hard tubing so they get that "look" but more of them need to state upfront that it isn't worth it for a gaming rig. I built one hard tube system in over 20 years of building custom loops and it was far more trouble than it was worth.
yeah it looks good but thats about it
@@sburns015 technically hard tubing improves water flow.
@@mrlescureI have absolutely no idea where you got that but not remotely true. I think you must have misheard something about it being easy to kink a line in soft tubing and get reduced water flow. But just plain reduced flow? Not a chance. A tube is a tube and the amount of water that flows through it is based on the pumps characteristics and the diameter of the tubing.
Soft tubing gets discolored and nasty looking over time and doesn't look anywhere near as nicenas the straight lines of rigid tube, particularly 16mm OD tube.
I will say the only reason to bother with custom loops is for silence. The performance boost is negligible, but water cooling is far quieter, particularly with good static pressure fans and more radiator surface area than you actually need.
@@praetorxyn Wut? discolored? Are you keeping your rig in direct sunlight?
Also a custom loop can absorb far more heat than any air cooler or AIO. That's why people actually use them, or at least why people who know WTF they're doing, use them. Just compare the reservoirs on AIO's and custom loops. That extra water means more mass and that means more sinking.
As to silence, again WUT? Pumps are easily the loudest computer component besides crappy fans cheapskates buy. SP fans can get quite loud as well when running at 75 to 100%, which they should be unless you're just throwing money away by building a custom loop as a showpiece not to actually improve performance.
I have really good or rather no bad experience at all made with aqua computer double protect coolant.
Water cooling system 7 years running no water change, no flakes particles or anything. I will definitely stay with that product!
It is now 2021. I just watched this. Those two are STONED 🤣🤣 lol
I´m drunk and I´m still watching your videos man,although I don´t understand shit. I´ll need to come back when I´m sober lmfao
Hi drunk ,I'm slso drunk
.
I'm I the only one who is not drunk?
I done some research, I did muh measuring and stuff. Nuffink, absolutely nuffink, prepares you for the little glitches, like the radiator plug that sits almost a centimeter out from the radiator tank and hence the radiator which you measured for headroom, available space, all that stuff, it won't sit flush against its fastening location on the case panel. Because its supplied radiator coolant screw-in plugs stick out against the panel and only one brandname manuf you know of makes radiators with a flush set screw-in plug... and this aint one of 'em.
Cheapest option, buy a dremmel and grind some panel clearance.
Great video! Every video by you and j2c is worth a time to watch! All infos for PC world can be find on both channels.
One thing I can't understand: why do people dislike this video? What is wrong with them??
Jay is a giant
Came here to say that. He looks like he could palm Steve's head. 😂
I've seen a number of videos with the two, and never noticed such a difference. (maybe it's a camera thing)
....or Steve .... isn't?
I still like the look of rigid tubing way too much. If I was reasonable I'd do air cooling, which has much higher price-to-performance ratio and much more reliable.
When you watch all the bids and followed none of the tips. Went acrylic on a 460x case for 1st build 🤣 was tight space work
Soft tubing is less costly and safer because the fit is much tighter. It is also much easier to work with compared to hard tubing. The only thing that hard tubing has over soft tubing is cleaner look, that’s all.
@Conor while short, straight runs with flex tubing can have similarly clean looks, there is a definite difference in the look of the tube itself. Holding them side by side, you will notice a big difference in how clear each type is compared to others... Flex tubing has a bit of a cloudy appearance, with clarity increasing as you move to PETG, Acrylic, and finally Glass... The down side is that the more clear a tubing is, the more brittle it is...
great video...really like the look of custom loops. Nice to hear Jay call it "form before function" because the cost is prohibitive as well unless your going for a look
I did subscribed to Jayz. After I did it, my subscribe list shortened.
I'm still using soft tube on my current watercooling and 1st AMD build in over 10 years of watercooling stuff. I have some hard line fittings and I just said Naa. I like the flexibility of soft tube. I'm too cheap to buy Primochill fittings but I have been using the XSPC black chrome fittings as my last 3 builds. I did buy $100.00 solid copper nickel plated block and real strong D-5 pump and huge thick Nexcool copper 360 rads. I think those 3 things are where to spend your money for max cooling performance. tubing and fittings are just the pathway but I try to make it look good without paying 20.00 per fitting. To me that seems insane unless your in a pro show or some sponsored build. I too got away from colors and just use water and biocide with PG. I am waiting on my 1st white case the Lian Li X11 to get here and it all gets installed.
Industrial cooling towers often have a continual sample loop measuring conductivity, oxygen reduction potential, which us a way of measuring the primary biocide dosing (bromine). Sometimes they also sample for dosed scale inhibitor using a fluorometer to measure the concentration of fluorescent tracer mixed with the inhibitor. All this is continually monitored and dumped, refreshed and dosed accordingly as threshold triggers are met. Which seems way over the top for a pc build. I often wondered if lifelong, ready mixed coolant used in the automotive industry would suffice?
Loop order always makes a difference, but hardly ever matters.
The hotter the water when it enters the radiator, the faster that heat will be dissipated into the air, which means the cooler it will be after passing through the radiator. CPU's are smaller than GPU's, so the thermal density of the interface is higher. Have the coolest water (after the radiator or radiators) hit the CPU first, then the GPU, and then (after any other blocks) go to the radiator(s). That will give you the best temperatures, though the difference will probably be too low to even notice at a 1C granularity.
Hi Steve and Jay if you are looking at doing a video on the basics of water cooling I would love it if you could review biocides also which ones are available in Australia as they can be very hard to get here. Also if you could do a piece on quick release fittings. I am about to put some in. I am hopping they will let me work on the system without having to drain it. Also I have been using a lot of connections from bykski and barrow which I have been getting from AliExpress just because it saves me between about 50% on the cost so maybe a review on those for us poor people:). Anyway thanks I really enjoyed and appreciate the work that you both do Eric
Steve wiping the Jayz Juice off his hands and onto his jeans at the end! LOL
Your videos are excellently done and always provide valuable expertise in the hardware enthusiast space. It's unfortunate that I often choose to use these videos as background noise when I'm working since half the terminology is lost on me :P Seriously, thanks for all the effort you put in to travelling and bringing guests on; it matters even to non hardware geeks like myself to have fascinating topics discussed by people who know what they're talking about.
GN, just want to say thanks for the work you do and for the fun you have. It's inspiring.
Ok it’s 2020 and a video showing the top manufacturer of custom water cooling equipment reviewed and tested would be nice as well as a build guide for each tested water cooling system and preform guides!
Steve looked like a little boy next to Jazzy, bless his heart 😅
12:12 - priceless 😄
4:10 If your reservoir has air in it, the pressure inside the tubes can't rise.
The air would be compressed too, but there is not enough expansion due to heat to decrease the volume of the air in the reservoir enough to be visible, so the pressure doesn't change either.
def looking forward to an updated WC vid. I just built my first custom Hardline loop of of Jays old video as a reference lol.
Steve looks like he’s making a presentation video for school and he got his dad to help him
I have an 120mm aio. Once it's done, I'll try soft tubing water cooling
Soft toobs for life !
why is the rum always gone
When half life 2 came out I watercooled my X800XT. I bought this bottle of liquid off the net that was AMAZING !!!! But discontinued weeks later. It weighed several times more than water. Was totally inert and non conductive that you could submerge working electrical appliances in it. It had no tension or meniscus. Being my first ever liquid setup, I was learning as I went and kit wasn’t what it is today and due to the lack of tension it leaks easier than water. It also evaporates very fast. It all leaked out of the tank joint and disappeared. Then I had to use fluid XP which was crap. I wish this was still available.
Great interview, Steve. I've enjoyed all the LTX videos you've had with other youtubers.
Definitely changes since his old guide considering back then he specifically suggested things like nano fluids over distilled water and biocyde (sp)?
I have had good luck using a couple drops of fountain pen ink to add color to distilled water.
Have you considered arm & hammer toothpaste? It's generally a fair bit cheaper per ounce and has a fair bit more of the little silicate grit on it.
Really love your interviews at LTX, all you guys looked like you were having fun
I think that's the first time I've ever heard anyone actually say the full S/PDIF name! Impressive!
i got my i7-8700k and 2 1080 ti's and hyper 212 cpu cooler in 2018 with an oculus rift , and put it away. i recently decided i'm building it upside down, with the gpu water cooling blocks surfaces 3/8" from gpu inlet fans, and the cpu water cooler attached to top of hyper 212 with a 2nd added fan. soft tubing and reservoir on lowest point trying to have connections between reservoir/pump going upward no higher than top of reservoir fluid level. My radiators 2ea 120mm x 480mm will have long hoses so i can submerge them in ice water. i have pcie extender cables and getting a longer sli connector cable to enable the spacing. i don't wish to risk a leak on the electronics. the water pumps (1 for ice water circulation thru rads, 1 for cpu and gpu's) will have power switches. wrx or warp speed. i'm making my own case, out of old 1's. then i will shop for flight simulator stuff. flying over the dark side of the moon at 100' in a vessel was the best fun with the rift setup.
Looking into building a new system with the new Ryzen 7 7700 and a RTX 4XXX heater with my old water cooling loop. Nice to see that I don't need magic cooling liquid.
I love you guys. So stoned lol. You can't fool an old bartender
Been using Soft tubing for YEARS.
hard to justify buying 25 new fittings at $15 a pop for hard tubing.
that's like.... a new gpu. fuck dat shit. :D
Alright, my two favorite gearheads, on screen together!
Try Autosol for cleaning blocks, works so you don't have too.
Yes upgraded guide please. Thank you!