No delay. Thanks for the reply, and a huge thank you for your You Tube channel, and for the inspiration and confidence I have gained from watching you. My fly's are better, I'm catching more fish, and I'm a happy bunny, but please don't pull my fur !!! Thanks again Davie, and all the very best to you too Please keep them coming. Steve.
Thank Davie I watch your flies tying great help . I like where you get this silver holographic hacked Lite-brite I have trouble finding this .thank you
Enjoyed that as usual - I love the technique you use widening opening the wingbuds slightly and "filling it" with BugBond - looks very natural! Thanks for sharing!
Great fly. I’ve been tying a bunch of this type fly. I’m having a problem with water getting under the resin This turns the whole thing milky white and the resin chips off. Will the varnish(I typically use Krazy Glue but I have clear lacquer) help the fly retain its look and keep the resin from chipping off? I used Bone Hard, Loon UV and Loon Flourescing UV resin. Thanks for all the great pattern and more ideas to create my own.
Hi R8tr 27, I try and apply the resins as thinly as I can especially over materials like Flexi-floss and then I will make sure I run a fine clear varnish over them and onto the hook so that the water doesn't get under the resin..I have to be honest I would rather use coats of varnish than using resin on buzzers because of this. Putting damp flies in your box can cause the resin to lift much as putting a wet rod in it's bag can cause the water to get under the varnish of the eyes...I'm glad you liked the fly as it is a great pattern to fish with.. All the very best Davie
Hi Davie, really like this fly and would like to give it a go but I'm struggling to get Hanks/lengths of the Lite-Brite. Can I be cheeky and ask where you source yours from. Thanks fella.
Hi BEN10T010, I had a look online for the holographic lite-brite I originally used but I struggled a bit though I did find which I feel is very similar on amazon which I have attached a link to below..I hope this is of some help to you.. All the very best Davie www.amazon.co.uk/Holographic-Dubbing-Materials-Synthetic-Sparkle/dp/B07JHZRCM7
Hi I Believe, It's worth tying some with the grey just to see how it goes as I'm sure they would work though I would say the white would stand out a bit more..Let me know how you get on.. All the very best Davie
Hey Davie, first let me say that I think you do great work, love the patterns and the well paced easy to follow videos. I have a question about the epoxy you use, the "bug-bond." I recently bought a bottle of liquid fusion, and it says it's fast drying. I let the scud I tied to dry in the vice over night because it would not dry quick enough for my taste. What type of light do you use to help the epoxy setup faster? Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can share. Keep up the good work!
Excellent Davie, one question though please if I may why do you use UTC sometimes then UNI thread, is it because of the flat profile that UTC has.I follow your latest creations with interest and other tyers as well but I have noticed on many occasions that very few tyers actually explain how the fly is fished ,top dropper bottom ,quick retrieve ,slow etc long leader short etc and to a beginner like myself that would almost be as valuable as the incredible flies you tie ,Thanks again anyway
Hi Stuart, UTC threads are ideal for tying midge pupa/buzzers as it gives a very smooth and flat body unlike uni-thread which is a more round thread though you can still get away with using it...What midge pupa will do is start working their way up from the bottom to the surface so you have to get them to the right depth. If I'm fishing from the bank I would normally use a cast of two flies one ten foot from the fly line and the other on the point eight foot from the dropper...They will normally start taking the point fly and as they move up they then start to take the dropper, when they start doing this I will replace the dropper with a dry fly so that then the point fly is then at the right depth...When I start to see them hatching then I will remove the point fly and replace this with an emerger like a shuttlecock, I will also remove the fly from the dropper and concentrate just on the dry fly...This is only one way of fishing the flies as there are many other methods but this is one that I have used very successfully over the years...I hope this is of some help to you.... All the very best Davie...
Thank you, Davie, sorry but I am not sure I follow correct me if I am wrong please but you would use a 10ft leader with one dropper ,the top dropper fly(midge pupa) being 8ft from the point leaving 2ft to the floating fly line,then when they start to move up replace the top dropper with a dry ,something like a hawthorn big and bushy ,then when you see hatching on the surface take the top dropper off and just use a shuttle cock on the point is that about right ?Thanks indeed I thoroughly enjoy your incredible creations and the neatness of it all
Hi Stuart, The full length of the cast is 18 foot long with a dropper at the 10 foot mark and the other fly is at the point of the cast, I like my dropper to be about 6 to 8 inches long..Use a dry fly that would help you see the takes like the ones you mentioned or what I like to use is a shuttlecock or f-fly which will represent a midge, you will find many of these flies on UA-cam which are easy to tye... ATB Davie..
Ahh ok now I understand ,I have never used a 18ft leader so it would be knit one pearl one until I get the hang of it .Thank you indeed and I will certainly give it a go
Hi Stuart, We are all very good at knitting if I'm honest with you...Get the wind behind you as this will help turn the cast over or reduce the length of the cast and slowly work up until you get used to the length...On your local waters I'm sure someone will help you with this as they will know a good length that will suit the lochs you fish.. All the very best Davie..
Davie, Your other fans are very complimentary about your UA-cam videos, and I agree with them. At about 2:30 in this video you hold the bobbin out of the way while winding the Uni-Flexx. I'd like to know how you are doing that. Can you tell me what you are doing here?
is the torch a necessity to tying this fly and using the resin or can i just wait for it to dry? Will it still dry and form properly if it sits? Thanks, Brennan
From tying buzzers, to classic Atlantic Salmon flies, to the fishing of them. 1ST class!
Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Thanks Davie, I will tie the various buzzer patterns, great videos.
No delay.
Thanks for the reply, and a huge thank you for your You Tube channel, and for the inspiration and confidence I have gained from watching you. My fly's are better, I'm catching more fish, and I'm a happy bunny, but please don't pull my fur !!!
Thanks again Davie, and all the very best to you too
Please keep them coming.
Steve.
Thank Davie I watch your flies tying great help . I like where you get this silver holographic hacked Lite-brite I have trouble finding this .thank you
Excellent video,as all yours are.Very informative step by step, thank you.
Enjoyed that as usual - I love the technique you use widening opening the wingbuds slightly and "filling it" with BugBond - looks very natural! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Davie! Good video!
Hello Davie. That's another great one. Keep up the great work.
Cheers, oldbear
Great fly. I’ve been tying a bunch of this type fly. I’m having a problem with water getting under the resin This turns the whole thing milky white and the resin chips off. Will the varnish(I typically use Krazy Glue but I have clear lacquer) help the fly retain its look and keep the resin from chipping off? I used Bone Hard, Loon UV and Loon Flourescing UV resin. Thanks for all the great pattern and more ideas to create my own.
Hi R8tr 27,
I try and apply the resins as thinly as I can especially over materials like Flexi-floss and then I will make sure I run a fine clear varnish over them and onto the hook so that the water doesn't get under the resin..I have to be honest I would rather use coats of varnish than using resin on buzzers because of this. Putting damp flies in your box can cause the resin to lift much as putting a wet rod in it's bag can cause the water to get under the varnish of the eyes...I'm glad you liked the fly as it is a great pattern to fish with..
All the very best Davie
Hi Davie, really like this fly and would like to give it a go but I'm struggling to get Hanks/lengths of the Lite-Brite. Can I be cheeky and ask where you source yours from. Thanks fella.
Hi BEN10T010,
I had a look online for the holographic lite-brite I originally used but I struggled a bit though I did find which I feel is very similar on amazon which I have attached a link to below..I hope this is of some help to you..
All the very best Davie
www.amazon.co.uk/Holographic-Dubbing-Materials-Synthetic-Sparkle/dp/B07JHZRCM7
I will to get some grey flexi floss & tie this up 🐟🎣
Davie another top tie I will be giving this a go. Thanks for all your efforts.
Lindsay
That is truly beautiful.I think I'd even bite that...like a little piece of candy.Good on ya Davie.
I'd love to talk but I've got to get in behind the vise, cheers big man.
Great tie as usual. Can u use grey Flexi too or is does it not give the same effect? Hopefully not a silly question 🤣
Hi I Believe,
It's worth tying some with the grey just to see how it goes as I'm sure they would work though I would say the white would stand out a bit more..Let me know how you get on..
All the very best Davie
@@DavieMcPhail thank you...
looks like glass wow o.O that is cool:)
Wow. 10 years ago.
Hey Davie, first let me say that I think you do great work, love the patterns and the well paced easy to follow videos. I have a question about the epoxy you use, the "bug-bond." I recently bought a bottle of liquid fusion, and it says it's fast drying. I let the scud I tied to dry in the vice over night because it would not dry quick enough for my taste. What type of light do you use to help the epoxy setup faster? Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can share. Keep up the good work!
Excellent Davie, one question though please if I may why do you use UTC sometimes then UNI thread, is it because of the flat profile that UTC has.I follow your latest creations with interest and other tyers as well but I have noticed on many occasions that very few tyers actually explain how the fly is fished ,top dropper bottom ,quick retrieve ,slow etc long leader short etc and to a beginner like myself that would almost be as valuable as the incredible flies you tie ,Thanks again anyway
Hi Stuart,
UTC threads are ideal for tying midge pupa/buzzers as it gives a very smooth and flat body unlike uni-thread which is a more round thread though you can still get away with using it...What midge pupa will do is start working their way up from the bottom to the surface so you have to get them to the right depth. If I'm fishing from the bank I would normally use a cast of two flies one ten foot from the fly line and the other on the point eight foot from the dropper...They will normally start taking the point fly and as they move up they then start to take the dropper, when they start doing this I will replace the dropper with a dry fly so that then the point fly is then at the right depth...When I start to see them hatching then I will remove the point fly and replace this with an emerger like a shuttlecock, I will also remove the fly from the dropper and concentrate just on the dry fly...This is only one way of fishing the flies as there are many other methods but this is one that I have used very successfully over the years...I hope this is of some help to you....
All the very best Davie...
Thank you, Davie, sorry but I am not sure I follow correct me if I am wrong please but you would use a 10ft leader with one dropper ,the top dropper fly(midge pupa) being 8ft from the point leaving 2ft to the floating fly line,then when they start to move up replace the top dropper with a dry ,something like a hawthorn big and bushy ,then when you see hatching on the surface take the top dropper off and just use a shuttle cock on the point is that about right ?Thanks indeed I thoroughly enjoy your incredible creations and the neatness of it all
Hi Stuart,
The full length of the cast is 18 foot long with a dropper at the 10 foot mark and the other fly is at the point of the cast, I like my dropper to be about 6 to 8 inches long..Use a dry fly that would help you see the takes like the ones you mentioned or what I like to use is a shuttlecock or f-fly which will represent a midge, you will find many of these flies on UA-cam which are easy to tye...
ATB Davie..
Ahh ok now I understand ,I have never used a 18ft leader so it would be knit one pearl one until I get the hang of it .Thank you indeed and I will certainly give it a go
Hi Stuart,
We are all very good at knitting if I'm honest with you...Get the wind behind you as this will help turn the cast over or reduce the length of the cast and slowly work up until you get used to the length...On your local waters I'm sure someone will help you with this as they will know a good length that will suit the lochs you fish..
All the very best Davie..
Davie,
Your other fans are very complimentary about your UA-cam videos, and I agree with them. At about 2:30 in this video you hold the bobbin out of the way while winding the Uni-Flexx. I'd like to know how you are doing that. Can you tell me what you are doing here?
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Hi @cantikjoo4158,
As long as midge are hatching you will have a chance to catch with this pattern..
All the very best Davie
Hi Davie,
Where do you get the Lite-Brite from. thanks
The battery ONLY lasts 2-3 days ????
is the torch a necessity to tying this fly and using the resin or can i just wait for it to dry? Will it still dry and form properly if it sits?
Thanks, Brennan