What Does It Mean to Inoculate Garden Beans & Peas: Do I Need That? - The Rusted Garden 2014
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- You may have heard it is important to inoculate your beans and peas or more specifically the soil in which they are planted. Peas and beans can 'fix' nitrogen from the atmosphere through the nodes in their roots. Rhizobium bacteria aid the roots in this process. This video provides a very basic explanation of the process of 'nitrogen fixing' and helps you decide if you need a pea and bean booster to inoculate the soil.
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Wow great info...
That was help Mr. Gary... thanks for that clear presentation of information about *Inoculating Beans when planting them.*
Beans and peas are favorite things to grow and I always get a wonderful crop every year (knock on wood!). I have had people mention it is good to use the bacteria, but since I have not had a problem, I don't use it. Thanks for sharing this information, you never know, I may need it one day! :))
Bless you sir. Everything I come across that, I need to know about, you've got covered. You are a phenomenal mentor. I am humbled to be able to acess the knowledge you impart and to call myself your student.❤🤗🥰
Very appreciated. Good luck this year. I enjoy teaching.
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Aha! Maybe this is all i've needed. Can't see any other reason garbanzos & lentils grow fine but don't produce. Black beans, pinto, red,blackeyed peas all produce fine.
It works for sure
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This is so helpful. I really didn't know all that much about it before. Thank you so much for sharing this information.
Excellent "How To". You make it sound a lot easier than other descriptions. Thanks
Great video again, Gary. I just learned something interesting recently. When the legumes produce their seeds, they use that nitrogen stored in the nodes. So if you're leaving the roots of you peas in the ground after harvesting there is significantly less nitrogen than you think. You'll still get some good organic matter breaking down, however. So when using legumes for improving nitrogen content do a chop and drop before the plant starts its seed production, but after blooming to give the pollinators some food. I'll have to find the link to this info- it was a Google books peek to a book about green manures if I remember right.
Tessa Neill Very good to know. Thanks. Chop it more like a cover crop versus harvesting.
Here is that link, Gary.
books.google.com/books?id=rF3-RzZ0psoC&pg=PA265&lpg=PP15&dq=designing+and+maintaining+your+edible+landscape+figure+17.1&output=html_text
The book is about nutrient accumulators actually. Below one of the tables it says plants contain the most nitrogen before bloom and shows how much it decreases as it gets to creating seeds. Book title at left. It was a very interesting read.
Why in the world would I grow bean plants just to till it in the soil for a little bit of nitrogen? I can just amend and not waste a perfectly good crop!
@@mydailyreward2090 no one ever said to grow beans just to turn into the soil. His video said to just leave the roots after the plant is done because there is nitrogen still in the nodes (there is actually very little though.)
You can, however, grow other legumes to improve the nitrogen in the soil and the organic matter. You would have to chop and drop it before they set seed because the plant uses that stored nitrogen in the nodes to make their seeds. Maybe wait also after the bees have been fed by the blooms too - so after it blooms but before they set seed.
A good legume for this is hairy vetch. Do some research on green manures or cover crops. Since improving the soil and feeding the soil life is what will give you healthy plants, this is a good way to do that.
Also good to replenish nitrogen since it washes through the soil - so it's not persistent. Leaving the roots of a legume (before they've set seed so all that nitrogen is there still in the nodes,) and chopping and dropping the plant above adds organic matter and stored nitrogen in those nodes for future crops. And feeds the soil life that breaks down the organic matter.
If you want to treat a large field add water and have a compost tea brewer , a spoonful of the inoculate to the compost tea bubble tank , molasses With air pump on brew for 16- 20 hours at 70-80F . The R bacteria will multiply in the water then strain the compost tea and put it in your sprayer and spray in on the seeds in the furrow before you cove the seeds or you can do it after the seeds have emerged are planted by sticking the nozzle of your sprayer in the ground neat the base of the plant and injecting it into the ground. Do this in early morning before the sun is hot. ( heat kill the bacteria).
I noticed mushroom type fungus growing in my pot.
The can happen.
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This was very helpful Gary Pilarchik, thank you for tackleing the topic, very cool! This is one think that I didn't know much about (among most other things!), thank you.
***** Very welcome! I figured I would learn about it and pass on the research. I will be doing a container pea experiment. One with and one without.
So…..what if……You sort of already planted your peas and didn’t do any of that inoculation stuff because you’re a noob. Now they’re about 4 feet tall and pumping out peas. But now the plants are turning yellow from the base. Is there anything I can do to help the plants out? I’m going through a heat wave at around 100F and I heard it’s not good to fertilize. I’m sort of stuck.
This was helpful to hear and see the information together.
Glad to help
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thank you very much
Thank you so much for all your wonderful videos. I appreciate it!
Thanks for watching. Glad to make them.
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@@THERUSTEDGARDEN I will! If it's anything close to as good as all your wonderful videos, I'll be purchasing it. Thanks again.
Quite informative. Thanks.
Yep
Gary, do you suppose our clover/peas/legumes are already doing this without an inoculant because we use woodchips and compost? Or should I inoculate anyways? I haven't even HEARD of inoculation until this year when ordering some crimson clover i Happened to stumble across inoculant .. like, what the heck is that?! Now I'm so confused. I've never had growing problems at all, but if its beneficial to inoculate i want to do so. I just think ours is doing it naturally. How would one know if that is the case?
I never inoculate. If found it didnt matter but that was probably cause they got what they needed from the soil., SO yes to answer your question. I dont know what part, but healthy soil has it.
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@@THERUSTEDGARDEN thank you Gary! Appreciate you!
Very helpful- thanks!!!
Glad to help.
Thanks Gary, very helpful.
s3venvii Very Welcome!
Also if you roll damp seeds in powder then inoculation is best. Water method is not that effective like the former method. More particles stick to seed means better inoculation.
Thanks again Gary lots of good information.
Eric White Your welcome
Will this inoculate work for legumes?
I tried INTX product for peas/lentils/beans. It nodulated only the peas but not kidney, mung, lentils, cowpeas. I will test if the nodules are red during flowering time. 30 days after sowing, they are still grey inside.
Can you use unsulfered molasses to inoculant the legume seeds?
Hmm I dont know the answer that. I wont hurt them but I am not sure of the benefit.
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Thank you for sharing this with us very helpful
I heard you must refrigerate any unused innoculant . Is that true?
That I dont know.
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I've seen it used for clover do u know if it should and is used for any other plants
I can help peas and beans but I have not used it. It is really needed if the bacteria is not present in some form in your earth.
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Thanks for this! I need to find some. It's a shame that even with such a long growing season in NC the stores pack up everything garden-related in early June.
Guess they need to make room for Christmas decorations.
Yep LOL Christmas rolls out fast.
Can I do this after they've just sprouted or is it too late?
Probably too late. It really is rarely needed.
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btw lovely video good tid bit of info. A lot of people don't know that peas and beans do that.
So THIS must be why my two little sugar snap pea plants (the ONLY two out of the dozen I started from seed) are the same size as when I planted them over a month ago! Thanks for this information. I was looking for preinoculation of cover crop seed and found yours instead. I have apparently NOT had healthy soil in these raised beds, not only for peas and beans, but for the other things I had planted there starting in April ALL through summer with no production to speak of! Thanks again....
Oh... can you get your soil tested. You have good reason to get a look at it. Probably worth mailing out samples.
It always sounds like I'm making reasons not to, but I DID look into it last spring and the site I had gone to said it took about 4-6 months as the lab is always backed up. Seems like if your soil sample is sitting for months, it wouldn't be a good representation of what's wrong with it, after so long. I think I'll look again, since it's starting to TICK me off to see this. If the fall garden doesn't do better, there's no point continuing unless I can figure out what's going on. I know that we don't have any earth worms, and I mean ANY! Someone told me everyone had earthworms. Well, I found grub worms and something that looks like white caterpillars, but there are no earthworms. I don't want to buy any if I'm condemning them to death, if they can't live in this soil. In fact, I just ripped up those two pea plants; I know from the experience with the squash that it was never going to do anything. Today, seeds go in the NEW and improved (LOL) soil, so I'll see. Thanks for your reply and suggestion. Accept your blessings!
Hey I’m loving your vids! I got my inoculant for peas and it arrived and the package and the bag the inoculant is in was very hot. Is the bacteria still alive? Thanks and have a wonderful day!
You know I dont know. But they can take pretty good extremes. You only need a few to survive to start multiplying.
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Gary Pilarchik (The Rusted Garden) ok thanks!
Do you think this would work on transplants as well? Like if you make a solution with warm water and the booster and then use that to irrigate your peas when you're putting them into a container or raised bed? Or does it only work on seeds?
You really dont need it for other things
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When I was a kid on the farm back in the 60s we inoculated our soybeans by simply dampening them with a little water in a tub, throwing in the inoculant and mixing it all up with a stick. The small amount of dampness on the seed caused the inoculent to attach to the seed where it stayed as it was transferred to the planter and then planted in the ground. I've never tried this on a small scale, but I would think you could do it in a cup or can without using so much water, allowing the dampness on the seed to pick up the inoculent.
q1dhm I would agree. The bacteria just needs a little foot hold on a pea. A good way to save money
Should I also sprinkle some of this when I transplant my seedlings into my 5 gallon container? Thanks
+Amandalisaxo Nope the sun should take care of most fungus problems. Its best for indoors where the environment supports fungus.
Very informative video! I planted my seeds last week and they are just starting to germinate. Is this something I can put on the soil around them or make a "tea" or am I just too late to do it for this year's crop?
Don't add much now. Let them grow till larger.
The nodules of root should be red inside while flowering otherwise the nodules if present are not working. If no nodules present after a month after sowing then your bacteria is not working.
I am using some RootsOrgainics by aurora innovations. it contains175,000 different specie colonies of mycorrhizal fungi, and 270,000 different bacterial colonies per gram. it is wonderful stuff! i see notable results on tea shrubs i inoculated compared to the shrubs i didn't. it also contains nitrogen fixing bacteria great for pot gardening or container gardening.
TheItalian Garden That is very interesting. I am looking at my garden bed soil this year and how to improve the micro organism world. Ill check them out.
okay glad I could give some good info too. that stuff is great for composting too. just mix warm water and some humic acid solution IE kelp extract maybe some blackstrap molasses with it, and BOOM! compost pile up to 185-190 degrees.
This probably doesn't apply to most people since they're not doing tons of legumes and it seems the inoculant is fairly inexpensive, but if one wanted to extend a smaller amount of inoculant and do up a big batch (e.g., in a 5 gallon pail or in a bathtub like q1dhm mentioned below), I think one could add a sugar medium first--one of the best is blackstrap/unsulfered molasses--and let it incubate for a day or two before soaking the legumes seeds. "A pH of 7.0, temperature of 28°C and 48 h incubation period were most appropriate for Rhizobium trifolii (MTCC 905). The present study concludes that 10% sugar waste is complete medium for the rhizobial inoculants." (scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=jm.2011.715.723&org=10) Oh, and though it doesn't matter a ton, best to use water without chlorine (tap water left sitting for a day).
Great video, Gary. When your peas or beans are done producing, is it o.k. to cut the stalk to the ground letting it 'break down' in place, instead of what you said "working it into the soil"? Can you then immediately plant another crop among the peas/beans roots that are decomposing?
LARKS GARDENS Yes that is the right idea.
Thank you Gary!
I was wondering if it will work if i mix some of the booster in my compost tea when i start brewing it. Then use it on my beans and peas
Davy Jones I was thinking about that too. I will be making teas this year my soil to add more bacteria and micro organism growth. I don't see why it would not work as the rhizobium bacteria feeds and grows like other aerobic bacteria.
hey Gary, Im trying bean inoculant this year. I would like to try culturing more for future use if possible. Would you have any information on how to culture?
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Thanks for a concise demonstration of the need, importance and the participation of various microorganisms in plant growth and nitrogen fixation. You explained how the soil is a living entity as much as plants. I enjoy your use of cards with written explanations as a visual aid in your discussion. Well done and appreciated,
Wayne
sfchemist I am focusing on the living soil this year in my bed gardens. That is the primary reason I am using more organic products outdoors. I want more micro organisms. And thanks!
Thank you for the video Gary, BTW I just setup the grow box for my seedlings, thx! I purchased NDure Pea, Lentil, and Vetch Inoculant (OG) late last year to use with my Fava. I never did used it cause I miscalculated. One thing I've notice over the last 3 years. I can grow beautiful big productive pinto bean plants. However, the peas looked anemic and produced very little. I plan to grow my Fava this year using the NDure. I have a question for you Gary. I've read that once you open the inoculant package you should use all of it the same year you open it. Would you say this is true?
FrostPlutarc I don't know if it is true. It is already dry and not active. It is waiting for the right temp and nutrients. My gut is that keeping it in a sealed container, cool and out of light could buy you much more time than 1 year. Nothing is changing. Maybe some others could chime in for clarity.
Gary Pilarchik
Thank you Gary.
Did you pull the roots out to verify nodulation after 30 days?
Gary, most of the leaves on my bush beans are yellow around the edges, and some further into the leaf. I try not to put much nitrogen into the container, but have started the 1/4 strength MG now, plus watering more. Was told not to give beans too much water, and not sure how much is too much. Have been giving them more water lately, and seeing a bit of improvement. Am kind of worried though because the 2 new bush sprouts are yellowing on the outside of the leaves, They have great soil, so not sure what I'm doing wrong. I do have rhizobium, can I add that now, or do I need to replant?
Wouldn't the chlorine in the water kill the bacteria?
renodeify Possible but probably unlikely. You can let water sit over night if you have lots of chlorine in your water. It will disappear.
OR....... You can just use wood ash. Same effect.
dana lee Oh. How would wood ash work?
not sure, exactly. But started to use it a few years ago when legumes were weak (I got it from a old 70's homesteading hippie co-op book) that year I could not see my hubby between the rows of peas and he is 5'11". Soil has been great since, and I rotate every year and what ever grows over the peas each year does very well. Now I just grow beans up my corn. This book also has a huge section on companion planting.
I was thinking of sowing Lucerne (alfalfa) as a green manure which the seed merchants state need an inoculant to fix N. burpee . They only sell it per acreage. Does the Pea and bean booster contain Sinorhizobium meliloti?
I wonder how far the bacterium can move through soil so one could use the inoculant sparingly
So that is a bit beyond my experience. I don't know what the Burpee products contain. However, I have never used an inoculant in my garden for beans or peas. It is really only needed if you don't have the bacteria in your soil. The best way to do it is mix it in the seeds. Then plant the seed. The bacteria then sits with the seed.