My son’s ‘02 Camry has the 2AZ-FE, and burns a quart every 1K miles. It’s been like this for the past 100K miles (it has 327K miles on it), and hasn’t fouled its catalytic converter yet. Add oil, change it every 5K despite the consumption, and keep driving.
Love hearing this. I have a 07 TC similar situation. I have always been worried about the converter getting clogged I'm so glad to see people are putting high miles on without that issue
@@DaDaDo661 Well, no-only the last quart added would be new; the first added quart (or whatever amount remains of it) would be 4K miles old. I haven’t bothered with a UOA, but drained oil at a 5K change certainly doesn’t look new. I do my own oil & filter changes, and make a weird sport of synthetic oil bargain-hunting. Usually, my engine oil changes cost me < $15-$20 for the oil + filter-that’s cheap enough that I feel no need to economize further.
Hello. I have a Camry with the same engine and it has 420,000 miles. I add oil about every 1,000 mile and change plugs once a year. I hope to see 500k in about three years.
I am the second owner of the same vehicle and engine in the limited trim, just hit 160k miles today. I had to rebuild the trans (thanks NYC driving) not long after purchasing it was cheaper than buying a new car at the time with market prices, but beyond that, just topping off the oil here and there between regular changes and it runs just fine. I replaced all air filters and upgraded the lights to LEDs and changed the spark plugs. Already took it up / down the coast from Florida to Pennsylvania in the mountains for an archery event as a semi converted camper build with solar and bed. My local shops think its in great shape. I'll be popping on new rotors / pads this week! Driving it till it dies but caring for it all the way. Thanks for the video!
Did the car show any signs before you had to swap the trans? We were experiencing some problems last winter and people were reccomening the torque converter was on its way out. Just curious if you noticed anything before the swap that I could watch out for
@@Ammut6 yes, it was hunting for 3rd gear often, if it was heavier more definitive acceleration like pulling onto the highway, it locked in fine but on slower driving it would seek before it shifted. I was told TC needed replacement but was also told with the state of the trans once the old fluid was drained it could very well easily lock up forever. After going to a bunch of places i decided on a rebuilt trans. Paid 3600 but at the time with car prices, decided it was worth it. Cars been fine since, no issues
@@CainSeldon yikes. Ive noitced ours starting to hunt for third also. Luckily we dont need to drive too much so I'm hoping we can baby it as long as possinle
One repairs and the other keeps living with it and keeps passing California pollution test. Then again one puts cars on a pedestal and the other uses cars to serve the owner. Classic case of a woman adds a little oil every so often and a man can tell you it takes a quart every 800 mile. A Mars Venus thing.
@@2148aa I'd personally just keep adding the oil, as the repair is around $3,500 - $4,000, but if you intend to run it, for years more down the road, that repair is probably worth it, depending on the overall condition of the car of course, and how good the mechanic is also 👍
@@Charlie_Crown Woman would say, "They want a sky high pile of 💰 to fix. I'll just keep adding oil every so often." Bet she has named her car to boot.👢
And he/his assistant watch this channel and it's comments religiously. I made a suggestion to Pete for his camera work and they took it and adopted it. Too much of a coincidence to not be connected.
I had this engine on a 2007 Camry SE. I nudged the dealer to fix it under warranty and replace the pistons back in 2014. It worked like a brand new car ever since then, 0 issues at 250K miles. Really good cars if you manage to fix this oil problem.
I had a '05 G35 Mt with the rev up engine and low tension oil seal rings. At 225,000 miles it burned a quart of oil every thousand miles. Passed CA smog fine. Put a new clutch in it and gave it to a friend in an AZ county where they don't do smog checks. He loves it. It will live there forever.
The 2AZ-FE engine is the worst oil burner I ever experienced. At 210k, it was burning around 300-500 miles a quart. I tried Seaform/MMO pistons soak twice with no different. After watched DIY Dave Channel video on his successful experiment pistons soak with Berryman B12 on his Corolla, I gave it a try. After the B12 soaked, my RAV4 oil burning went down to 1/3 quart every 1,000 miles.
it was one of the first examples of low tension piston rings. at that time a lot of manufactures were trying new things to reduce friction. I do believe most have added gas porting to the pistons to counter the low tension rings. when on compression stroke the rings are pressed more firmly against the cylinder walls preventing blow by and oil consumption and adding some performance with one simple fix.
I had a 2008 RAV4 Sport. Purchased new and used Mobil1 Full Synthetic oil starting at the first oil change. Toyota filters and routine services. Tires, brake pads, transmission fluid, coolant and spark plugs a couple of times. No other problems. Family members used the car until it was involved in an accident a few years ago. By then it had well over 200K miles and it didn't use any oil. 4,000 mile oil change interval since new.
We bought a 2006 with 213,000 miles. We're just over 260,000 now and we just buy an extra gallon of oil at every oil change. Not a big inconvenience for me to add oil once every two weeks. Although we were experiencing some problems with the car shaking which would eventually stall the engine and all power would be lost. Hasn't happened in about a year now so fingers crossed!
Thank you Peter. My 09 Subaru Forester 2.5 NA NT also burns oil. Not sure why. Most people tell me its the design of the engine. I check oil levels about every 2 two weeks and do oil and oil filter change every 3k miles. The engine runs pretty smooth. Its my daily. :) lots of TLC for this car as well as the 2011 2GREFE Sienna. I added a Baxter performance oil filter adapter to the Sienna. Oil changes every 3k to 5k miles:0 Safe travels Peter. You are the man on That Golden Coast. "Life's gonna be sweet like a raps when I paint my Masterpiece" ------> Sugar Mag :)
My oil burner is at 134K miles. Hope I can get another 2 years out of it. Yes, I carry along a jug of oil in the trunk. I have faith since I purchased 4 new tires, and replaced the front brakes w/ rotors, replaced spark plugs and replaced the valve cover gasket. Not long ago I replaced the radiator as well. It runs great!
As long as your catalytic converters aren't plugged up and the engine isn't knocking and still has plenty of power, I wouldn't worry about it. You should get 2 years out of it easy. I have read about these engines going over 300k even burning a quart every 300 miles with no issues. While it's a pain to keep adding oil these things will run a long time. The issue is with the oil rings not the compression ring. My daughter's Camry with this engine still has great compression and runs like a champ.
My 2006 Rav4 AWD had 175,000 before it was totaled 3 months ago. {Rear ended}. It used 1 quart of oil every 750 to 800 miles. I loved that car and wouldn"t hesitate to buy another if the price was right. I miss that car.
I have a 07 RAV4 2.4L with the exact same problem; eats 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. Bought it used at 130k, previous owner didn't inform me or didn't know about this issue, now it has 150k. It's a great little SUV, lots of room, economical to drive, wish to keep it forever, still contemplating on replacing the engine in near future.
@@VibhanuArachchige Good question. The "repair" involves replacing the piston and rings with Wiseco units, so for many it's not worth the effort. At 120K mine uses minimal oil, but I've never let it go more than 3,500 miles between oil and filter changes. I'm kinda fussy about the maintenance, replacing the air filter every four oil changes, and rotating the tires after each oil change. If it ever got to burning a quart per 1,000 miles I'd try to find a low mileage engine and spend the extra $500 dollars for the ring and piston set.
I am so glad to hear about this is the original converter for this car. I have a 2007 Scion TC of course same issue. I do not mind keeping an eye on the oil and refilling it. My biggest thing is what happens when the converter goes. This is great news and gives me hope.
Another thing to consider for anyone having reservations about buying a car with the 2AZ-FE. If the engine burns 1qt. every 2500 miles that is a 417:1 Fuel to Oil Ratio. (@24 mpg) If you are adding 1qt. every 300 miles that's a 50:1 ratio. Most 2 cycle engines burn 50:1. A 2-cycle outboard engine typically last 1500-2000 hours before it needs a rebuild.
I’ve serviced our 2011 every 5,000 miles with quality oil and Toyota filters. It has 140k miles now and it needs maybe 1/2 to 1 whole quart added between changes. Honestly my old Chevy was the same way and my Jeep was worse. Nothing new to me and my wife hasn’t a clue or a care,she just knows her car starts every day she needs it lol
That is when they decided to get a tiny bit better mileage by going to looser fitting piston rings to reduce friction. Turns out the oil control ring at the bottom of the piston slides over a lot of oil on the way down causing excessive oil consumption. Toyota sells a parts kit to fix the problem but the engine needs to be removed and taken completely apart to do the repair. The operation takes 2 days to complete, so just keep adding oil unless you want to spend $3,000, or more. Toyota had a recall on some of those oil burners.
Nope. The problem is the HOLES around the perimeter of the ring are too small, not the fit. Wiseco has a piston/ring kit that fixes the problem. Compare the rings and you'll see.
@@20alphabet If you're tired of burning oil and don't mind the work, you could replace the piston rings AND drill out the oil drainback holes on the pistons. I'm thinking of doing a minor overhaul on a 2010 4cyl VVT with 240,000 miles (pistons and improved rings, crankshaft and camshaft bearings, and oil pump).
My 03 Camry has this same engine (well, the 5W30 variant) and only burns about 1 Qt every 2500 miles or so with normal driving (unless I take it offroad racing, then way more). It is about to hit 217K miles.
Great content, I would also buy that vehicle at a fair market price without hesitation. You're still getting Toyota quality and engineering. In 2004-1008 and newer, there was a jump in technology. Manufacturers started using 0W-20 light weight oil and low friction piston rings to reduce friction and increase fuel economy. The result is oil burning which is not a big deal IMO. All car manuf's did the same thing around this time. If anything, this issue allows you to get into a quality Toyota product for less $$.
This is the famous 2AZ low tension piston ring engine. Yes finally a RAV btw.. Yes you mentioned the oil poisoning of the catalyst material. But I wonder if these new ones seem better than for example the 1MZ engine of ten years prior.
Added marvel mystery oil 473ml near the end of the oils life cycle. Has totally reduced the oil consumption problem and I'm starting to also get better fuel economy. Another UA-camr recommended trying this before thinking about an engine repair or selling the vehicle. Has worked so far for me. I have driven about 900km with no noticeable loss of oil. I will be changing the oil soon but will add 473ml container of marvel mystery oil again to new oil as apparently it takes 2 or 3 oil changes to fix the problem. When I bought this rav4 2006 model recently I made sure it had a good service history as this is the main reason the piston rings give you trouble. Regular Oil change cycle in these engines must be strictly adhered to otherwise they will start consuming lots of oil..
I tried to research Auris oil burning. It's a popular model in Europe. Apparently 1st gen 1.3L engines had a big issue with it. Do you have any info on 2nd gen 1.6 engines concerning this issue?
I bought a 2010 Pontiac Vibe with this Engine with about 50k miles. It burns about 1 qt. every 2,500 miles. Not a huge deal, I just check oil at every fill up. Car runs like a champ and the price was right. I do wonder if switching from 0W20 to 5W30 would slow the burn rate.
I have an 03 Echo that was burning 1 quart oil every 600 miles. I did 2 piston soaks with berryman's B12 and let each sit for two days. Now the oil consumption is only 1 quart every 3500 miles. This car does not need a rebuild but only a few bucks of berryman's and some time for the car to sit while you do the soak.
@@Ammut6 You pull the spark plugs and add 1/4 of the bottle of berryman's B12 into each hole then re install the plugs and let it sit for a day. Then repeat with another can of berryman's. The after 2 days full sit time drain the oil and berryman's from the engine and do an oil change. (it will run past the rings and coat the oil control ring- softening an dissolving the built up carbon gunk on them). You will need to dry out the pistons through the spark plug holes before you can restart the engine or it will be very hard to start. I used an air compressor and a little patience. This worked great for me and others online. Takes little time, money and almost no labor and its easy to repeat if need be. Good luck!
@@Ammut6 You can let them air dry out or use a hair dryer too. Berryman's does evaporate pretty quick so if you don't mind waiting , the cylinders will dry out on their own.
@@TorstenHasselmann I might try berrymans on mine. One cylinder in particular keeps getting oil in it even after I changed valve cover gasket. 05 camry, 2az-fe with 376k mi. Thanks for the tip, never heard of the stuff till I saw multiple 2az-fe owners talking about it helping with the rings when ya can't afford a rebuild.
So far my 2006 Camry 2AZ-FE burns no oil (knock on wood). My 1999 CRV burns a little oil and leaks a little oil. Maybe I’m crazy but now I just save the oil from the Toyota at end of summer and use it for top-up oil. I use synthetic and always have low km’s so even if I drove exclusively with that oil it would be ok by my next oil change interval.
For very low mileage oil, say for example under a thousand miles, the oil would be barely contaminated and it would be fine. If it's dark, I wouldn't recommend but any oil is better than no oil.
Peter how has the owner been checking the oil level ?When it’s running?Or perhaps on an uneven pavement and engine running?And then dumping a quart in it?People do strange things because they are unaware.
From what I've read, many Toyota VVT engines made in that period had that problem to an extent. The 2.4L 2AZ-FE types had it the worst, but I own a 2011 Toyota Corolla S with a 1.8L 2ZR-FE and it also burns oil to an extent. This was the result of an ill-advised, ill-planned experiment by Toyota to increase MPG by decreasing the oil ring pressure on the cylinder wall. The theory was that by decreasing the oil ring pressure, the piston could travel through its cycles in the cylinder with less effort, thus using less fuel. But if you think about it, the whole concept was stupid and to be honest, I'm surprised at Toyota for not realizing it from the getgo. First, the primary reason for both compression and oil rings to be there is to prevent the air/fuel mixture from weeping into the block from the head and thus spreading carbon and other gases which would foul up the engine. They're also designed to scrape off all but the thinnest coat of oil from the cylinder walls during the intake and firing strokes. Less ring pressure = more residual oil on the cylinder walls = oil consumption. It's simple physics. But even if you could increase MPG by decreasing the ring pressure, you need to ask yourself how much fuel would you be saving as compared to how much oil you would be consuming by using that method. Not to mention the possible damage the extra oil consumption could do to your cat converter.
We have a 2007 Toyota Rav4 with the 2AZ-FE engine in it & the Toyota dealer did a warranty test on the engine for excessive oil burning but it never used that much oil at the time. Now it uses about 1/2 Qt. per every other tank of gas or so. I never knew Toyota made engines that burned oil like this model; I had 3 previous Toyota cars before that never used oil like this engine does. A 1980 Toyota Corolla, a 1984 Toyota Tercel & a 1991 Toyota All-Trac station wagon car. Too bad they do not fix this problem under warranty!!!
@dilshadimon4402 The question is, what is considered "excessive" oil consumption for a repair to be covered under warranty? Is one qt per 1,000 mile OK, or should it be 2k, 3k miles, or whatever? There should be a standard trigger point for the industry. Car owners and dealers can both be unreasonable. Some car owners believe they should never have to add oil between changes, while the dealer will tell you a quart in 800 miles is OK. "Just needed updated piston rings" could be thousands of $$$.
Hi im inquiring on an 09 tundra codes. My cv joint failed so abs, 4 hi and traction control is on . I replaced the cv and cant get rid of them . How can i manually reset them please. Thank you .
I have I 2009 2arfe in my rav 4 ,the oil consumption is about 1qt per 200mi.,I thought toyota corrected the oil ring issue for this motor, absolutely not,do you know what year toyota actually built a motor that would be compatible to mine I want to change motors.
Mr. Toyota maintenance, pls help. I have 2007 rav4. When it stationary with working a/c engine fan works every 10sec: 10sec on and 10sec off, and etc. I think it’s not normal
I have a Lexus gs at 160k miles. I have replaced the purge valve but still seems to burn oil. I also found oil inside of one of the spark plug tube. Any idea is greatly appreciated.
I would get some BG-EPR and see if it can clean the piston holes for the oil control ring. Worth a try to reduce oil consumption. Do it at the next OCI. Put new filter on before you do it.
@@LAactor agreed. How lomg ago did you attempt this? And hoe many miles have you out into that car since then? Im willimg to try but id rather just keep adding oil and not risk the entire car for a $20 can of mystery fluid.
I had an issue with an older Honda with the K24Z6 engine. Very similar engine in purpose as that Rav 4 engine. It has major issues with sticking piston rings and then oil burning. The dealership did an oil change and changed the plugs "as part of their pre sale inspection" so I should have known something was up but we bought it anyway and didn't take it to a mechanic. Regardless, turns out that engine is a real oil burner. Going through maybe 1qt every 1000 miles. I got slightly reduced oil use using 5W-30, and more usage with 0w-20. And I suspect lots of fuel dilution because the oil always smelling like gasoline. I tried all sorts of things. Nothing helped. Just resigned to the fact that it was going to burn oil until the cat fouled out or the oil consumption got worse and worse and the car was dying. I noticed the plugs in one piston were oil fouled. The other 3 looked okay. Ok, I thought, it's just one cylinder. Ended up buying a few jugs of that Valvoline Restore and Protect in the desperate hopes it would at least slow the oil use. No joke, that stuff actually seems to have helped after a single oil interval. I recently did 1750 miles of highway driving, AC on, with passengers and luggage, at speeds of 75-80mph. Normally a real oil guzzler type of driving. Added a total of 200ml of oil. So reduced oil consumption from 1ml per mile to .114 ml per mile. That's a 90% reduction in oil consumption. I think in narrowly defined situations, there may be some value in that Valvoline R&P. Something worth trying for cost-sensitive customers, provided they are patient.
What does the oil look like when it's changed on regular intervals? If you're adding every week or two, does it need oil changes less frequently or does the "oil burning" cause more contamination?
@@danh2134 yes. Our rav4 calls for 4.3 or 4.7 quarts. Whenever we change it its well below 3 quarts. And the fluid is as dirty aa you'd expect. Just because you add new oil so frequently doesn't mean the oil will be just as clean when you drain it.
160K on my 2007 Rav4 4 cylinder. I add oil every 500 miles. Eats about 4 qts every 1000. It's a bit of a pain but honestly, didn't know any better. It started in 2014. Otherwise, this car has needed nothing but a window motor under recall. So, I really can't complain. Is it ideal, no. It is terrible, no. At the time, there weren't any warnings about this as I researched extensively.
Mine is burning oil and has a misfire on cylinder one that I can't seem to figure out. Not sure if the two are related. Was hoping someone here had a similar issue and can kind of point me in the direction of what might be going on
I had this code; The P0420 code, also known as the "catalyst system low efficiency" code, indicates that the catalytic converter in a vehicle is not functioning properly. This was a plugged Cat and with a fuel Cat additive was cleaned out in less than a tank of fuel. I have 290K miles and it was cleared out rather quikly. If you pull the filler cap with the engine running and vapor comes out and there's no vacuum try replacing the PCV Valve. That can cause this problem. Go to a 30W oil will help also.
Believe it or not, I have the same problem , but with my Triumph motorcycle. Other than the oil consumption, it runs like a new machine. Repair would be cost prohibitive, so I do as your customer is doing.
I have a Rav4 2008 with this engine. I have this problem with my suv. I love this car but the problem is complicated. Do you recommend make the oil changes with another oil? 5w30?
Absolutely low tension piston rings. My wife’s 07 Yukon XL started burning a quart every 2k miles at 40k miles until we sold it with 210k miles. I turned off the cylinder deactivation at 50k miles, did nothing to the oil burn rate. Never had an issue with the catalytic converters though.
@@LAactor There's a video somewhere on UA-cam where a guy rebuilds these motors for this reason. He explains in detail what causes the excessive oil consumption, showing the oil ring holes that clog and the larger holes in the replacement rings. Has nothing to do with tension, but the design.
Yes they have an updated piston and ring kit. You reuse the wrist pin and the rest is trash. It's a Toyota. No need for resurfacing the head. And doing so to a Toyota block can actually affect the Toyo VVTi and time. It's a few thousand plus labor of about 16 hours so think about how good shape the car is in and help long you'll keep it if that route is taken.
@@harmdegraaf5579 No sleeves in one of these but they can be fitted but a complete waste of money just bore and hone it and fit oversize pistons if the cyls are worn.
@@harmdegraaf5579 I did not see your comment because YT only notifies me of I have a thumbs up and not replies, bit I have made in a previous comment on another thread that this head is machined to tight tolerances already and there is no rehoning it, it would be a new top half plus gasket.
During driver's ed in high school we were taught to rub your finger in tail pipe to see if there;s any soot. If so, it's burning oil. I always do that 40 years later when buying a car. My toyota burns less than a quart of oil every 5000 miles between oil changes.
Unfortunately I did not know about this when I picked up a 2008 RAV4 with this engine for my daughter. Her RAV4 with 115K was burning much more oil than what was stated here. Wasn't worth the coset to repair the engine so I wound up paying big bucks for a new engine. AI purchased this vehicle after reading nothing but good reviews about the 2008 RAV4 in Consumer Reports. Wish the piston ring problem with this particular engine we more well known :-(
I have an 05 Prius that is also known as a oil burner. I tried a new product ATS Carbon Clean. I ran some at oil change time one bottle run at high idle for 20 minutes and pulled the plugs and divided a second bottle of the oil treatment as bottle piston soak over night, I put 2 of the fuel treatment containers in the fuel tank, the instruction says to put one in a 1/4 to 1/2 tank but I had bought two kits. After running the engine at high idle ( 1500 rpm) for 20 minutes. I went from 1 quart every 500 miles to 1/2 quart every oil change, 5000 miles. I was surprised that it worked so well, seems to clean out sticky oil rings . So for $160 I fixed my oil burning problem on a 2005 190,000 mile Prius. Worth a try before a tear down.
@@Ammut6 no you just pull the spark plugs and pour some solvent into the cylinder and cover it with a rag over night, to keep crud out and help keep it from evaporating. It will work it’s way down through the rings softening up any build up and carbon that is clogging the ring lands. I usually the put the old plugs back in, add an engine flush and run the motor at high idle for 15-20 minutes. Change the oil and install new plugs. I’ve had very good results on several of mine and my friends Priuses that have been consuming oil. We also installed catch cans on the pvc to filter out any oil that’s coming by the rings into the pvc system to keep the crud out of the oil pan and keep it from going out through the catalytic converter. So it just pulling the plugs that’s the work. I’ve seen people get good results just using chemtool B12. But the ATS products have worked far better than anything else I’ve tried. I went ahead and bought a case of the fuel treatment so I can run it a can through every once in a while to keep it clean, I drive so little now that I’m retired I only change the oil annually.
@@texaspowerman thank you for your elaborate answer. Unfortunately im not willing to spend $300 for a hope of fixing it. I'd rather just spend that $300 on more oil to keep topping the car off with haha
Yes but they have different conditions for different year vehicles. Plus if it doesn't burn incomplete less hydrocarbons are detected. There's lots of conditions. You're thinking of 20 year old parameters.
At that mileage I would assume that motor needs a rebuild..... Maybe the car only drives short distances (I don't know why people buy 4x4s and only use them to go to work and never see dirt roads) which causes the engine to wear..... Needs a compression test before going further.
I am a subscriber of your UA-cam channel and your videos always help me. I do auto mechanics to my car just as a hoby. I have a 2013 Toyota Camry LE that I bought used with 30,000 mi. Now it have 140K mi. Never changed the transmission fluid because Toyota does not include it in the Maintenance Manual. Would it be convenient to change the fluid now or should the fluid level only be completed if necessary??? Can you give me an email address for a direct consultation where I can give you more information about my case? Regards B. Perez
It won't hurt to drain transmission fluid and refill with the same amount that came out. Unless you know what you are doing, I don't recommend trying to drop the pan and replacing the filter. It is probably not necessary on a passenger car, but fresh fluid every 60k miles will keep your transmission happy.
My daughter's 2005 Camry with this engine and 210k on it burns about a quart every 500 miles or so. I am going to try flushing the engine when changing her oil for the next few changes and see if that improves it. If I can reduce it to a quart every 1,000 or more miles I'd be happy. I have read about these engines going over 300k miles even burning a lot of oil and still running great. While this is probably Toyota's worst engine they have made, it definitely better than any other manufacturer's worst engine. My daughter's still runs like a champ so I am not too worried about it. She just needs the car to get her through college. For now I told her to reset the trip odometer and check the oil every 400 miles and I taught her how to do it and add oil to it.
I have a 2007 rav4 with 160k on the odometer and it also burns oil and I still use it as a daily driver. Do you have any idea how much it would cost me to have the issue fixed? Planning to keep it for sentimental reasons
Check Bill Simpson's comment, it might not be worth it, I just keep a jug of oil in the cargo compartment and check it every few weeks between regular oil changes.
Has anyone slipped a boroscope through the spark plug holes to inspect the condition of the cylinder walls? Way back in the day, I had a datsun that always burned oil, bought new, at 30K miles I'd had enough and tore the engine down only to find the piston rings were stuck in their ring lands and as close to zero wear had taken place as I'd ever seen in any engine I've dismantled. I guess it was lucky even to start, the fit of the pistons in the bores must have been quite good to run with zero ring tension. I guessed datsun must've used hard chrome-molly rings which never seated to the bore but instead the engine oil coked the rings. I tossed a set of iron rings in after a minor hone on top of the original hone which was perfectly preserved and proceeded to run the vehicle well past 100K miles with near zero oil consumption.
Three questions. 1. Have you advised your customer to use a 15W -50 oil for top ups? 2. I thought that low friction ring issue was a recall. 3. Is the auto trans on that car a Aisin torque converter type or CVT?
He doesn't answer questions online. But maybe he might follow up in a future video. 1a. That could be too high. Plus hard to find. Even 15W-40 is easier to get in the US. I would not be comfortable with more than 10W-40 in this engine without the re-ring. And would start them out at 5W-30 if they are on a 0W. 2. Yes, but not all of them qualified. Many had lots of conditions to do so and it was dependent on the dealer discretion also. Goodwill gestures.
3. This vehicle in the US doesn't have CVT for this drivetrain match until much later and usually a torque converter style except for 2010 when Tesla produced the company's electric version.
I had a car once that didn't burn oil well at least it didn't until i did an oil change and put penzoil oil in it and then it started burning oil. Have never used the rubbish oil since.
Do you still have the same Cadalytic converter? I have a 2007 Scion TC. It is a burner and really do not care I'm just more worried about having to replace the catalytic converter. It was awesome to hear this RAV4 still has original.
@@Glenn_123 no i did have to replace the original Cat converter due to check engine light code stayed on. Yah that was a couple thousand for OEM Cat 😬🤷♂️ a few years back!!
That is the 2AZ FE engine to avoid. It was changed to reduce emissions. Prior to this change the oil cap called for 5W30. But be careful with those as there was a tendency for the head bolts to strip if the engine ever overheated. Look for good maintenance records and this engine is actually very reliable.
Seeing the VIN we can for some people who have the power to, find out her weekly miles. By bi-annual inspection in CA called the smog check. But I draw the line there for her personal business is not for me to share.. An easy way is to ask miles is how much gas fill-up happens per week and approximate. But if we assume like most people one tank a week. Average real data mileage ifs 22mpg but let's round and give her 25mpg even with AWD drag coefficients and body damage. Let's say she doesn't take the full tank and gets 400 miles to the tank. The formula Toyota used for warranty campaign which it may have gone through we don't know or I have no interest to check but she says oil loss so we know it's not done. Shame too because the campaign just ended a few years ago for free repair. Best case scenario she assumes to add a quart per thousand miles. That should have qualified her. Best case 800 miles for her. I have heard of you're nice and contact Toyota maybe they will consider. Or ask the dealer if they can be willing to ask.. but it's not a sure deal. I recommend put her at 5W-30. After the re-ring they changed the weight to 5W-30. And see if that helps keep the oil in.
My son’s ‘02 Camry has the 2AZ-FE, and burns a quart every 1K miles. It’s been like this for the past 100K miles (it has 327K miles on it), and hasn’t fouled its catalytic converter yet. Add oil, change it every 5K despite the consumption, and keep driving.
Love hearing this. I have a 07 TC similar situation. I have always been worried about the converter getting clogged I'm so glad to see people are putting high miles on without that issue
Do you really need to change the oil at 5K when you're adding a quart every 1k lol? It's basically new oil at that point
@@DaDaDo661 at least the oil filter
@@DaDaDo661 Well, no-only the last quart added would be new; the first added quart (or whatever amount remains of it) would be 4K miles old. I haven’t bothered with a UOA, but drained oil at a 5K change certainly doesn’t look new. I do my own oil & filter changes, and make a weird sport of synthetic oil bargain-hunting. Usually, my engine oil changes cost me < $15-$20 for the oil + filter-that’s cheap enough that I feel no need to economize further.
U need to change the oil to get rid of the gunk
Hello. I have a Camry with the same engine and it has 420,000 miles. I add oil about every 1,000 mile and change plugs once a year. I hope to see 500k in about three years.
I am the second owner of the same vehicle and engine in the limited trim, just hit 160k miles today. I had to rebuild the trans (thanks NYC driving) not long after purchasing it was cheaper than buying a new car at the time with market prices, but beyond that, just topping off the oil here and there between regular changes and it runs just fine. I replaced all air filters and upgraded the lights to LEDs and changed the spark plugs. Already took it up / down the coast from Florida to Pennsylvania in the mountains for an archery event as a semi converted camper build with solar and bed. My local shops think its in great shape. I'll be popping on new rotors / pads this week! Driving it till it dies but caring for it all the way. Thanks for the video!
Did the car show any signs before you had to swap the trans? We were experiencing some problems last winter and people were reccomening the torque converter was on its way out. Just curious if you noticed anything before the swap that I could watch out for
@@Ammut6 yes, it was hunting for 3rd gear often, if it was heavier more definitive acceleration like pulling onto the highway, it locked in fine but on slower driving it would seek before it shifted. I was told TC needed replacement but was also told with the state of the trans once the old fluid was drained it could very well easily lock up forever. After going to a bunch of places i decided on a rebuilt trans. Paid 3600 but at the time with car prices, decided it was worth it. Cars been fine since, no issues
@@CainSeldon yikes. Ive noitced ours starting to hunt for third also. Luckily we dont need to drive too much so I'm hoping we can baby it as long as possinle
@@Ammut6 good luck! Hope it works out, find a reputable transmission shop if you need work, mine has a 3 year warranty.
The Car Care Nut done a detailed repair video on this very problematic issue recently, well worth watching 👍
One repairs and the other keeps living with it and keeps passing California pollution test. Then again one puts cars on a pedestal and the other uses cars to serve the owner. Classic case of a woman adds a little oil every so often and a man can tell you it takes a quart every 800 mile. A Mars Venus thing.
@@2148aa I'd personally just keep adding the oil, as the repair is around $3,500 - $4,000, but if you intend to run it, for years more down the road, that repair is probably worth it, depending on the overall condition of the car of course, and how good the mechanic is also 👍
@@Charlie_Crown Woman would say, "They want a sky high pile of 💰 to fix. I'll just keep adding oil every so often." Bet she has named her car to boot.👢
And he/his assistant watch this channel and it's comments religiously. I made a suggestion to Pete for his camera work and they took it and adopted it. Too much of a coincidence to not be connected.
These old cars are not worth repairing
I had this engine on a 2007 Camry SE. I nudged the dealer to fix it under warranty and replace the pistons back in 2014. It worked like a brand new car ever since then, 0 issues at 250K miles. Really good cars if you manage to fix this oil problem.
It is a pity the repair program was so inconsistently applied for the 2.4 engine.
How many miles was it at when it was repaired is the actual age of the car because the new engine is a new lifeline
And by new I mean just the pistons
A rebuilt engine that has replaced the problem is still cheaper than another car. And you still have the reliability of your Toyota.
I had a '05 G35 Mt with the rev up engine and low tension oil seal rings. At 225,000 miles it burned a quart of oil every thousand miles. Passed CA smog fine. Put a new clutch in it and gave it to a friend in an AZ county where they don't do smog checks. He loves it. It will live there forever.
The heat will kill the head gasket
The 2AZ-FE engine is the worst oil burner I ever experienced. At 210k, it was burning around 300-500 miles a quart. I tried Seaform/MMO pistons soak twice with no different. After watched DIY Dave Channel video on his successful experiment pistons soak with Berryman B12 on his Corolla, I gave it a try. After the B12 soaked, my RAV4 oil burning went down to 1/3 quart every 1,000 miles.
Man im burning 2-3 quartz on 300m with 1zzfe (150k).
Oil literally dripping out of exhaustpipe😅
I'll have to try that stuff on mine. I really dont wanna replace my rings.
Really interesting and exciting results. Burning one-third quart every 1000 miles is basically a normal Honda or Toyota with 200k miles.
it was one of the first examples of low tension piston rings. at that time a lot of manufactures were trying new things to reduce friction. I do believe most have added gas porting to the pistons to counter the low tension rings. when on compression stroke the rings are pressed more firmly against the cylinder walls preventing blow by and oil consumption and adding some performance with one simple fix.
The new FRS designates over the former FE suffixed units.
I had a 2008 RAV4 Sport. Purchased new and used Mobil1 Full Synthetic oil starting at the first oil change. Toyota filters and routine services. Tires, brake pads, transmission fluid, coolant and spark plugs a couple of times. No other problems. Family members used the car until it was involved in an accident a few years ago. By then it had well over 200K miles and it didn't use any oil. 4,000 mile oil change interval since new.
Dirty oil causes the problem with this engine.
When equipped with defective piston rings, this engine caused problems regardless of maintenance routines.
Wouldn't it have been a better choice to use conventional oil rather than synthetic? I figured synthetic would burn at a faster rate.
Adding oil does not seem like the end of the world, but it is disappointing that Toyota made such an error.
We bought a 2006 with 213,000 miles. We're just over 260,000 now and we just buy an extra gallon of oil at every oil change. Not a big inconvenience for me to add oil once every two weeks.
Although we were experiencing some problems with the car shaking which would eventually stall the engine and all power would be lost. Hasn't happened in about a year now so fingers crossed!
Thank you Peter. My 09 Subaru Forester 2.5 NA NT also burns oil. Not sure why. Most people tell me its the design of the engine. I check oil levels about every 2 two weeks and do oil and oil filter change every 3k miles. The engine runs pretty smooth. Its my daily. :) lots of TLC for this car as well as the 2011 2GREFE Sienna. I added a Baxter performance oil filter adapter to the Sienna. Oil changes every 3k to 5k miles:0 Safe travels Peter. You are the man on That Golden Coast. "Life's gonna be sweet like a raps when I paint my Masterpiece" ------> Sugar Mag :)
⬆⬆⬆Tell Max I referred you for something profitable 📊📩
Yea, I had that engine in a TC. I loved the car and changed the oil every 5k miles and it still ran into the ring issue starting around 70k.
Did Toyota fix it?
My oil burner is at 134K miles. Hope I can get another 2 years out of it. Yes, I carry along a jug of oil in the trunk. I have faith since I purchased 4 new tires, and replaced the front brakes w/ rotors, replaced spark plugs and replaced the valve cover gasket. Not long ago I replaced the radiator as well. It runs great!
As long as your catalytic converters aren't plugged up and the engine isn't knocking and still has plenty of power, I wouldn't worry about it. You should get 2 years out of it easy. I have read about these engines going over 300k even burning a quart every 300 miles with no issues. While it's a pain to keep adding oil these things will run a long time. The issue is with the oil rings not the compression ring. My daughter's Camry with this engine still has great compression and runs like a champ.
My 2006 Rav4 AWD had 175,000 before it was totaled 3 months ago. {Rear ended}. It used 1 quart of oil every 750 to 800 miles. I loved that car and wouldn"t hesitate to buy another if the price was right. I miss that car.
Thank you Peter.
I have a 07 RAV4 2.4L with the exact same problem; eats 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. Bought it used at 130k, previous owner didn't inform me or didn't know about this issue, now it has 150k. It's a great little SUV, lots of room, economical to drive, wish to keep it forever, still contemplating on replacing the engine in near future.
Great engine. Adding a quart between oil changes isn't a problem for such great service.
It's more like a quart for every 800-1000 miles.
@@LAactor
Yeah, for some it's ridiculously high.
Hi I’ve encountered the issue at 110k km and run with adding oil till 127k. Do you recommend to do the repair or running with adding oil?
@@VibhanuArachchige
Good question. The "repair" involves replacing the piston and rings with Wiseco units, so for many it's not worth the effort. At 120K mine uses minimal oil, but I've never let it go more than 3,500 miles between oil and filter changes. I'm kinda fussy about the maintenance, replacing the air filter every four oil changes, and rotating the tires after each oil change. If it ever got to burning a quart per 1,000 miles I'd try to find a low mileage engine and spend the extra $500 dollars for the ring and piston set.
You are a very nice person. Great video.
I am so glad to hear about this is the original converter for this car. I have a 2007 Scion TC of course same issue. I do not mind keeping an eye on the oil and refilling it. My biggest thing is what happens when the converter goes. This is great news and gives me hope.
time to straight pipe then
@@anandchundi6805 I would love to. Unfortunately, I live in a state with emissions.
@@Glenn_123 get a po box in another state and register there :O
the cat probably fails due to the coating of the ceramic honeycomb deteriorating, just from heat, not the solvents its burning
@@Glenn_123 if you live in CA the CARB has a BAR division that will assist with the cat repair.
Another thing to consider for anyone having reservations about buying a car with the 2AZ-FE. If the engine burns 1qt. every 2500 miles that is a 417:1 Fuel to Oil Ratio. (@24 mpg) If you are adding 1qt. every 300 miles that's a 50:1 ratio. Most 2 cycle engines burn 50:1. A 2-cycle outboard engine typically last 1500-2000 hours before it needs a rebuild.
I’ve serviced our 2011 every 5,000 miles with quality oil and Toyota filters. It has 140k miles now and it needs maybe 1/2 to 1 whole quart added between changes.
Honestly my old Chevy was the same way and my Jeep was worse. Nothing new to me and my wife hasn’t a clue or a care,she just knows her car starts every day she needs it lol
That's hardly any consumption. You can probably switch to 5w30. Or try some oil cleaning and that might turn out to be even better.
Good knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
That is when they decided to get a tiny bit better mileage by going to looser fitting piston rings to reduce friction. Turns out the oil control ring at the bottom of the piston slides over a lot of oil on the way down causing excessive oil consumption. Toyota sells a parts kit to fix the problem but the engine needs to be removed and taken completely apart to do the repair. The operation takes 2 days to complete, so just keep adding oil unless you want to spend $3,000, or more. Toyota had a recall on some of those oil burners.
Nope. The problem is the HOLES around the perimeter of the ring are too small, not the fit. Wiseco has a piston/ring kit that fixes the problem. Compare the rings and you'll see.
I'll keep adding oil until I've spent $3000 on extra oil 😆
@@20alphabet If you're tired of burning oil and don't mind the work, you could replace the piston rings AND drill out the oil drainback holes on the pistons. I'm thinking of doing a minor overhaul on a 2010 4cyl VVT with 240,000 miles (pistons and improved rings, crankshaft and camshaft bearings, and oil pump).
The low tension oil rings were used starting 2007-2008, that's the reason.
Nope.
@@20alphabet explain
Yes immigrant Amepnkaheu and then it was solved shortly thereafter by upgraded engine and renamed to 2AR
My 03 Camry has this same engine (well, the 5W30 variant) and only burns about 1 Qt every 2500 miles or so with normal driving (unless I take it offroad racing, then way more). It is about to hit 217K miles.
Sweet.. getting the bes out of it.. I have a ‘11 Highlander inching up to 200K miles.. that engine doesn’t burn but it isn’t gas friendly 😅
Hopefully you don’t get the stripped head bolts.
Great content, I would also buy that vehicle at a fair market price without hesitation. You're still getting Toyota quality and engineering. In 2004-1008 and newer, there was a jump in technology. Manufacturers started using 0W-20 light weight oil and low friction piston rings to reduce friction and increase fuel economy. The result is oil burning which is not a big deal IMO. All car manuf's did the same thing around this time. If anything, this issue allows you to get into a quality Toyota product for less $$.
This is the famous 2AZ low tension piston ring engine. Yes finally a RAV btw..
Yes you mentioned the oil poisoning of the catalyst material. But I wonder if these new ones seem better than for example the 1MZ engine of ten years prior.
The ke20 burnt oil at 100.000 miles drove one back in 1986.the carina 4efe engines burnt oil at over 120.000 miles. But drove for ever.
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Added marvel mystery oil 473ml near the end of the oils life cycle. Has totally reduced the oil consumption problem and I'm starting to also get better fuel economy. Another UA-camr recommended trying this before thinking about an engine repair or selling the vehicle. Has worked so far for me. I have driven about 900km with no noticeable loss of oil.
I will be changing the oil soon but will add 473ml container of marvel mystery oil again to new oil as apparently it takes 2 or 3 oil changes to fix the problem. When I bought this rav4 2006 model recently I made sure it had a good service history as this is the main reason the piston rings give you trouble.
Regular Oil change cycle in these engines must be strictly adhered to otherwise they will start consuming lots of oil..
I tried to research Auris oil burning. It's a popular model in Europe. Apparently 1st gen 1.3L engines had a big issue with it. Do you have any info on 2nd gen 1.6 engines concerning this issue?
I bought a 2010 Pontiac Vibe with this Engine with about 50k miles. It burns about 1 qt. every 2,500 miles. Not a huge deal, I just check oil at every fill up. Car runs like a champ and the price was right. I do wonder if switching from 0W20 to 5W30 would slow the burn rate.
It may. Try Castrol GTX Blend 5W30
I have an 03 Echo that was burning 1 quart oil every 600 miles. I did 2 piston soaks with berryman's B12 and let each sit for two days. Now the oil consumption is only 1 quart every 3500 miles. This car does not need a rebuild but only a few bucks of berryman's and some time for the car to sit while you do the soak.
What does the process look like?
@@Ammut6 You pull the spark plugs and add 1/4 of the bottle of berryman's B12 into each hole then re install the plugs and let it sit for a day. Then repeat with another can of berryman's. The after 2 days full sit time drain the oil and berryman's from the engine and do an oil change. (it will run past the rings and coat the oil control ring- softening an dissolving the built up carbon gunk on them). You will need to dry out the pistons through the spark plug holes before you can restart the engine or it will be very hard to start. I used an air compressor and a little patience. This worked great for me and others online. Takes little time, money and almost no labor and its easy to repeat if need be. Good luck!
@@TorstenHasselmann you had me until air compressor lol.
@@Ammut6 You can let them air dry out or use a hair dryer too. Berryman's does evaporate pretty quick so if you don't mind waiting , the cylinders will dry out on their own.
@@TorstenHasselmann I might try berrymans on mine. One cylinder in particular keeps getting oil in it even after I changed valve cover gasket. 05 camry, 2az-fe with 376k mi.
Thanks for the tip, never heard of the stuff till I saw multiple 2az-fe owners talking about it helping with the rings when ya can't afford a rebuild.
So far my 2006 Camry 2AZ-FE burns no oil (knock on wood).
My 1999 CRV burns a little oil and leaks a little oil. Maybe I’m crazy but now I just save the oil from the Toyota at end of summer and use it for top-up oil. I use synthetic and always have low km’s so even if I drove exclusively with that oil it would be ok by my next oil change interval.
For very low mileage oil, say for example under a thousand miles, the oil would be barely contaminated and it would be fine. If it's dark, I wouldn't recommend but any oil is better than no oil.
Peter how has the owner been checking the oil level ?When it’s running?Or perhaps on an uneven pavement and engine running?And then dumping a quart in it?People do strange things because they are unaware.
Mine is the same 1qt per 1,k miles and it's valve guides if it sits a few days there is a plume of blue smoke at cold start up
From what I've read, many Toyota VVT engines made in that period had that problem to an extent. The 2.4L 2AZ-FE types had it the worst, but I own a 2011 Toyota Corolla S with a 1.8L 2ZR-FE and it also burns oil to an extent. This was the result of an ill-advised, ill-planned experiment by Toyota to increase MPG by decreasing the oil ring pressure on the cylinder wall. The theory was that by decreasing the oil ring pressure, the piston could travel through its cycles in the cylinder with less effort, thus using less fuel. But if you think about it, the whole concept was stupid and to be honest, I'm surprised at Toyota for not realizing it from the getgo. First, the primary reason for both compression and oil rings to be there is to prevent the air/fuel mixture from weeping into the block from the head and thus spreading carbon and other gases which would foul up the engine. They're also designed to scrape off all but the thinnest coat of oil from the cylinder walls during the intake and firing strokes. Less ring pressure = more residual oil on the cylinder walls = oil consumption. It's simple physics. But even if you could increase MPG by decreasing the ring pressure, you need to ask yourself how much fuel would you be saving as compared to how much oil you would be consuming by using that method. Not to mention the possible damage the extra oil consumption could do to your cat converter.
My 2005 1ZZ-FE engine is perfect without any excess oil consumption. It is not a widespread problem.
i have a 98 chevy prizm with 284,000 miles 5 speed and dont have this issue.
F'n EPA regulators just want to cause havoc on the masses. Look at the debacle of EVz coming down the pike.
We have a 2007 Toyota Rav4 with the 2AZ-FE engine in it & the Toyota dealer did a warranty test on the engine for excessive oil burning but it never used that much oil at the time. Now it uses about 1/2 Qt. per every other tank of gas or so. I never knew Toyota made engines that burned oil like this model; I had 3 previous Toyota cars before that never used oil like this engine does. A 1980 Toyota Corolla, a 1984 Toyota Tercel & a 1991 Toyota All-Trac station wagon car. Too bad they do not fix this problem under warranty!!!
By now, its probably not worth fixing. When it was new and under warranty, it just needed updated piston rings.
@dilshadimon4402 The question is, what is considered "excessive" oil consumption for a repair to be covered under warranty? Is one qt per 1,000 mile OK, or should it be 2k, 3k miles, or whatever? There should be a standard trigger point for the industry. Car owners and dealers can both be unreasonable. Some car owners believe they should never have to add oil between changes, while the dealer will tell you a quart in 800 miles is OK.
"Just needed updated piston rings" could be thousands of $$$.
Peter my 2001 solara convert 45000 miles was not hurt in the Ft. Myers huricane I was lucky my friend lost his car as many did
Good vid TM.
I have something 👆profitable you might be interested in 💸
Every 2.5k miles we have to add one quarter 10w40.. as mentioned in the owner book .. not a problem
Hi im inquiring on an 09 tundra codes. My cv joint failed so abs, 4 hi and traction control is on . I replaced the cv and cant get rid of them . How can i manually reset them please. Thank you .
I have I 2009 2arfe in my rav 4 ,the oil consumption is about 1qt per 200mi.,I thought toyota corrected the oil ring issue for this motor, absolutely not,do you know what year toyota actually built a motor that would be compatible to mine I want to change motors.
Mr. Toyota maintenance, pls help.
I have 2007 rav4. When it stationary with working a/c engine fan works every 10sec: 10sec on and 10sec off, and etc. I think it’s not normal
Both this engine and the 1.8 aluminum engine used starting in "98 were oil burners due to their crappy piston rings.
I have a Lexus gs at 160k miles. I have replaced the purge valve but still seems to burn oil. I also found oil inside of one of the spark plug tube. Any idea is greatly appreciated.
I would get some BG-EPR and see if it can clean the piston holes for the oil control ring. Worth a try to reduce oil consumption. Do it at the next OCI. Put new filter on before you do it.
Other than from BG, how many vehicles have you had this procedure done on and for what percentage does it help significantly?
@@LAactor agreed. How lomg ago did you attempt this? And hoe many miles have you out into that car since then? Im willimg to try but id rather just keep adding oil and not risk the entire car for a $20 can of mystery fluid.
@@LAactor ua-cam.com/video/d7Nr3O00UlM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the link. I'll give it a watch and make a decision
Thank you. Does toyota has any responsability for this? I own one and I add oíl every now and again.
Hmmm, I see a project car. Would love to pull the engine out and do the rings. I have the same engine in a 2003 Camry, 284K doesn't burn oil.
Got an 08 limited 120,000 on clock doesn't burn a drop of oil yet. Fingers crossed.
I had an issue with an older Honda with the K24Z6 engine. Very similar engine in purpose as that Rav 4 engine. It has major issues with sticking piston rings and then oil burning. The dealership did an oil change and changed the plugs "as part of their pre sale inspection" so I should have known something was up but we bought it anyway and didn't take it to a mechanic.
Regardless, turns out that engine is a real oil burner. Going through maybe 1qt every 1000 miles. I got slightly reduced oil use using 5W-30, and more usage with 0w-20. And I suspect lots of fuel dilution because the oil always smelling like gasoline.
I tried all sorts of things. Nothing helped. Just resigned to the fact that it was going to burn oil until the cat fouled out or the oil consumption got worse and worse and the car was dying.
I noticed the plugs in one piston were oil fouled. The other 3 looked okay. Ok, I thought, it's just one cylinder. Ended up buying a few jugs of that Valvoline Restore and Protect in the desperate hopes it would at least slow the oil use.
No joke, that stuff actually seems to have helped after a single oil interval. I recently did 1750 miles of highway driving, AC on, with passengers and luggage, at speeds of 75-80mph. Normally a real oil guzzler type of driving. Added a total of 200ml of oil. So reduced oil consumption from 1ml per mile to .114 ml per mile. That's a 90% reduction in oil consumption.
I think in narrowly defined situations, there may be some value in that Valvoline R&P. Something worth trying for cost-sensitive customers, provided they are patient.
What does the oil look like when it's changed on regular intervals? If you're adding every week or two, does it need oil changes less frequently or does the "oil burning" cause more contamination?
When you drain it you get way less oil than when you filled it
The rings don't seal well so you're getting a lot of blow-by anyway
@@danh2134 yes. Our rav4 calls for 4.3 or 4.7 quarts. Whenever we change it its well below 3 quarts. And the fluid is as dirty aa you'd expect. Just because you add new oil so frequently doesn't mean the oil will be just as clean when you drain it.
Looks to me to be the wrong type and size of tires ?
160K on my 2007 Rav4 4 cylinder. I add oil every 500 miles. Eats about 4 qts every 1000. It's a bit of a pain but honestly, didn't know any better. It started in 2014. Otherwise, this car has needed nothing but a window motor under recall. So, I really can't complain. Is it ideal, no. It is terrible, no. At the time, there weren't any warnings about this as I researched extensively.
Do all 2.4 engines have this issue no matter what year?
Which is a better engine 4.7 liter or the 5.7 for longevity. I know some 4.7’s have gone 1,000,000 miles but I like my 5.7.
Stick with the 5.7
Suppose the cylinder walls are damaged as well. Can that be repaired or do you need a a new engine block?
Block is not repairable but this problem is always the rings.
Mine is burning oil and has a misfire on cylinder one that I can't seem to figure out. Not sure if the two are related. Was hoping someone here had a similar issue and can kind of point me in the direction of what might be going on
I had this code; The P0420 code, also known as the "catalyst system low efficiency" code, indicates that the catalytic converter in a vehicle is not functioning properly. This was a plugged Cat and with a fuel Cat additive was cleaned out in less than a tank of fuel. I have 290K miles and it was cleared out rather quikly.
If you pull the filler cap with the engine running and vapor comes out and there's no vacuum try replacing the PCV Valve. That can cause this problem. Go to a 30W oil will help also.
2.4L vibe gt I have oil spraying out getting all over from radiator to back o engine an# I don't know where from?
my pontiac vibe uses 1vqt every 350 miles. 229,000 miles on it still runs good.
Believe it or not, I have the same problem , but with my Triumph motorcycle. Other than the oil consumption, it runs like a new machine. Repair would be cost prohibitive, so I do as your customer is doing.
I have a Rav4 2008 with this engine. I have this problem with my suv. I love this car but the problem is complicated. Do you recommend make the oil changes with another oil? 5w30?
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Are you suggesting a fix
Never fixed the problem on my 04 Camry SE - 260k still checking and adding oil
Absolutely low tension piston rings. My wife’s 07 Yukon XL started burning a quart every 2k miles at 40k miles until we sold it with 210k miles. I turned off the cylinder deactivation at 50k miles, did nothing to the oil burn rate. Never had an issue with the catalytic converters though.
Nope.
@@20alphabet explain
@@LAactor
There's a video somewhere on UA-cam where a guy rebuilds these motors for this reason. He explains in detail what causes the excessive oil consumption, showing the oil ring holes that clog and the larger holes in the replacement rings. Has nothing to do with tension, but the design.
Are there improved rings, pistons, sleeves, etc. available now that would fix the oil burning problem?
Yes they have an updated piston and ring kit. You reuse the wrist pin and the rest is trash. It's a Toyota. No need for resurfacing the head. And doing so to a Toyota block can actually affect the Toyo VVTi and time. It's a few thousand plus labor of about 16 hours so think about how good shape the car is in and help long you'll keep it if that route is taken.
Plus barely a mark on the walls so cylinder sleeves would be unnecessary. It's a Toyota. Not some German make that blows up every hundred thousand.
@@LAactor I donot think cylinder sleeves can be replaced. It would be a new shortblock. Please correct me when I am wrong.
@@harmdegraaf5579 No sleeves in one of these but they can be fitted but a complete waste of money just bore and hone it and fit oversize pistons if the cyls are worn.
@@harmdegraaf5579 I did not see your comment because YT only notifies me of I have a thumbs up and not replies, bit I have made in a previous comment on another thread that this head is machined to tight tolerances already and there is no rehoning it, it would be a new top half plus gasket.
do you still have your TC? how is it running?
Believe it was given and sold to help a needy college student.
During driver's ed in high school we were taught to rub your finger in tail pipe to see if there;s any soot. If so, it's burning oil. I always do that 40 years later when buying a car. My toyota burns less than a quart of oil every 5000 miles between oil changes.
Unfortunately I did not know about this when I picked up a 2008 RAV4 with this engine for my daughter. Her RAV4 with 115K was burning much more oil than what was stated here. Wasn't worth the coset to repair the engine so I wound up paying big bucks for a new engine.
AI purchased this vehicle after reading nothing but good reviews about the 2008 RAV4 in Consumer Reports. Wish the piston ring problem with this particular engine we more well known :-(
I have an 05 Prius that is also known as a oil burner. I tried a new product ATS Carbon Clean. I ran some at oil change time one bottle run at high idle for 20 minutes and pulled the plugs and divided a second bottle of the oil treatment as bottle piston soak over night, I put 2 of the fuel treatment containers in the fuel tank, the instruction says to put one in a 1/4 to 1/2 tank but I had bought two kits.
After running the engine at high idle ( 1500 rpm) for 20 minutes.
I went from 1 quart every 500 miles to 1/2 quart every oil change, 5000 miles.
I was surprised that it worked so well, seems to clean out sticky oil rings . So for $160 I fixed my oil burning problem on a 2005 190,000 mile Prius.
Worth a try before a tear down.
Whats the process on the piston soaking? Do I have to disassemble anything?
@@Ammut6 no you just pull the spark plugs and pour some solvent into the cylinder and cover it with a rag over night, to keep crud out and help keep it from evaporating. It will work it’s way down through the rings softening up any build up and carbon that is clogging the ring lands.
I usually the put the old plugs back in, add an engine flush and run the motor at high idle for 15-20 minutes. Change the oil and install new plugs. I’ve had very good results on several of mine and my friends Priuses that have been consuming oil.
We also installed catch cans on the pvc to filter out any oil that’s coming by the rings into the pvc system to keep the crud out of the oil pan and keep it from going out through the catalytic converter.
So it just pulling the plugs that’s the work. I’ve seen people get good results just using chemtool B12. But the ATS products have worked far better than anything else I’ve tried.
I went ahead and bought a case of the fuel treatment so I can run it a can through every once in a while to keep it clean, I drive so little now that I’m retired I only change the oil annually.
@@texaspowerman thank you for your elaborate answer. Unfortunately im not willing to spend $300 for a hope of fixing it. I'd rather just spend that $300 on more oil to keep topping the car off with haha
Don’t they do emission checks there in CA ? How do they get by that if it is burning oil?
The catalytic converter is fine
Yes but they have different conditions for different year vehicles. Plus if it doesn't burn incomplete less hydrocarbons are detected. There's lots of conditions. You're thinking of 20 year old parameters.
@@LAactor Get out of California.
At that mileage I would assume that motor needs a rebuild..... Maybe the car only drives short distances (I don't know why people buy 4x4s and only use them to go to work and never see dirt roads) which causes the engine to wear..... Needs a compression test before going further.
I am a subscriber of your UA-cam channel and your videos always help me. I do auto mechanics to my car just as a hoby. I have a 2013 Toyota Camry LE that I bought used with 30,000 mi. Now it have 140K mi. Never changed the transmission fluid because Toyota does not include it in the Maintenance Manual. Would it be convenient to change the fluid now or should the fluid level only be completed if necessary??? Can you give me an email address for a direct consultation where I can give you more information about my case?
Regards B. Perez
It won't hurt to drain transmission fluid and refill with the same amount that came out. Unless you know what you are doing, I don't recommend trying to drop the pan and replacing the filter. It is probably not necessary on a passenger car, but fresh fluid every 60k miles will keep your transmission happy.
My daughter's 2005 Camry with this engine and 210k on it burns about a quart every 500 miles or so. I am going to try flushing the engine when changing her oil for the next few changes and see if that improves it. If I can reduce it to a quart every 1,000 or more miles I'd be happy. I have read about these engines going over 300k miles even burning a lot of oil and still running great. While this is probably Toyota's worst engine they have made, it definitely better than any other manufacturer's worst engine. My daughter's still runs like a champ so I am not too worried about it. She just needs the car to get her through college. For now I told her to reset the trip odometer and check the oil every 400 miles and I taught her how to do it and add oil to it.
I have a 2007 rav4 with 160k on the odometer and it also burns oil and I still use it as a daily driver. Do you have any idea how much it would cost me to have the issue fixed? Planning to keep it for sentimental reasons
Take a look at The Car Care Nut channel, he recently did this repair, in some detail, plus the cost, well worth a look 👍
Check Bill Simpson's comment, it might not be worth it, I just keep a jug of oil in the cargo compartment and check it every few weeks between regular oil changes.
Bump up the weight of the oil one increment to help it burn less oil. It will have a harder time getting past the rings.
@@LAactor so if it calls for 5w20 what oil would I be looking to use? And does conventional vs synthetic have any effects?
@@Ammut6 try 10w30 conventional
Has anyone slipped a boroscope through the spark plug holes to inspect the condition of the cylinder walls?
Way back in the day, I had a datsun that always burned oil, bought new, at 30K miles I'd had enough and tore the engine down only to find the piston rings were stuck in their ring lands and as close to zero wear had taken place as I'd ever seen in any engine I've dismantled. I guess it was lucky even to start, the fit of the pistons in the bores must have been quite good to run with zero ring tension.
I guessed datsun must've used hard chrome-molly rings which never seated to the bore but instead the engine oil coked the rings.
I tossed a set of iron rings in after a minor hone on top of the original hone which was perfectly preserved and proceeded to run the vehicle well past 100K miles with near zero oil consumption.
Drive it 'till it dies. Not worth the $$$ to fix.
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Check intake manifold gasket.
Three questions.
1. Have you advised your customer to use a 15W -50 oil for top ups?
2. I thought that low friction ring issue was a recall.
3. Is the auto trans on that car a Aisin torque converter type or CVT?
He doesn't answer questions online.
But maybe he might follow up in a future video.
1a. That could be too high. Plus hard to find. Even 15W-40 is easier to get in the US. I would not be comfortable with more than 10W-40 in this engine without the re-ring. And would start them out at 5W-30 if they are on a 0W.
2. Yes, but not all of them qualified. Many had lots of conditions to do so and it was dependent on the dealer discretion also. Goodwill gestures.
3. This vehicle in the US doesn't have CVT for this drivetrain match until much later and usually a torque converter style except for 2010 when Tesla produced the company's electric version.
How is it possible this 2007 rav have 2az-fe and my 2008 has 1az-fe engine?!
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The 2AZ-FE was used in the North American car market.
where are you originally?
☝️☝️ TELL Max that I referred you to him for a business investment, and also for something new profitable huge..🚀🚀
I just went to the garage and popped the hood on my 2010 Camry. I do not have that engine number. Mine is a 2.5 L four banger. Not the same engine.
Yes that's the improved version after they corrected the problem
Many of those 2010-2011s used oil too
Pretty much similar to the 1ZZ.
I had a car once that didn't burn oil well at least it didn't until i did an oil change and put penzoil oil in it and then it started burning oil. Have never used the rubbish oil since.
Sir, where are you located?
Northern Cali. Where are you?
240k+ and burns oil…who could blame it.
Yup ! 2004 Camry same engine same problem!! 270K add oil between oil changes not to big a deal. Original owner and I hope I get another 300K 😊
Do you still have the same Cadalytic converter? I have a 2007 Scion TC. It is a burner and really do not care I'm just more worried about having to replace the catalytic converter. It was awesome to hear this RAV4 still has original.
@CoronalMassEjectionsDontCare valid point!!!
@@Glenn_123 no i did have to replace the original Cat converter due to check engine light code stayed on. Yah that was a couple thousand for OEM Cat 😬🤷♂️ a few years back!!
I would bump up the weight of oil one increment to help slow down the burn
I change my 2azfe engine oil camry every three thousand kilometers = 1875 miles .
My key is the exact same as that one the alarm button missing 😂 the key itself is still there but missing the button.
You can buy the button very cheaply off eBay or Amazon or wherever you buy stuff online.
@@LAactor yeah I’ve looked just haven’t gotten around ordering one and moving the chip from my current to the new one
Don't throw out the baby with the piston-ring bath water.
I have something 👆profitable you might be interested in 💸
Headline stuff begins at 2:30ish.
Has anyone tried AMETECH restorer?
☝️☝️ TELL Max that I referred you to him for a business investment, and also for something new profitable huge..🚀🚀
Never seen an oil cap indicate that you can use 0W20 and 5W20
⬆⬆⬆Tell Max I referred you for something profitable 📊📩
That is the 2AZ FE engine to avoid. It was changed to reduce emissions. Prior to this change the oil cap called for 5W30. But be careful with those as there was a tendency for the head bolts to strip if the engine ever overheated. Look for good maintenance records and this engine is actually very reliable.
Seeing the VIN we can for some people who have the power to, find out her weekly miles. By bi-annual inspection in CA called the smog check. But I draw the line there for her personal business is not for me to share.. An easy way is to ask miles is how much gas fill-up happens per week and approximate.
But if we assume like most people one tank a week. Average real data mileage ifs 22mpg but let's round and give her 25mpg even with AWD drag coefficients and body damage. Let's say she doesn't take the full tank and gets 400 miles to the tank.
The formula Toyota used for warranty campaign which it may have gone through we don't know or I have no interest to check but she says oil loss so we know it's not done.
Shame too because the campaign just ended a few years ago for free repair. Best case scenario she assumes to add a quart per thousand miles. That should have qualified her. Best case 800 miles for her. I have heard of you're nice and contact Toyota maybe they will consider. Or ask the dealer if they can be willing to ask.. but it's not a sure deal.
I recommend put her at 5W-30. After the re-ring they changed the weight to 5W-30. And see if that helps keep the oil in.
Low-tension piston rings were a very un-Toyota idea.
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I'd just put thicker oil in
I have the same car and do the exact same thing 😂