I got the first edition back in the mid 90s for a birthday present from my dad when I was a teenager still use it today for reference. That book taught me a lot when I was just starting out. So I bought the second edition as soon as I learned it was in print it is a very informative book. The second edition has quite a bit more load data than the first.
Good review. This is a modern loading book updated for today's calibers. It also complements the older books that still have info on loads of the past that are still viable today. Keep up the good work!
Looks Like a very good starter book as well. Value for money is something I have noticed from Lee as well. Nice to know this book has such a comprehensive list of load date, should serve anyone well regardless of what they shoot or their reloading experience, good to know and thanks for the review.
All the manufacturers emphasize their products the reload manuals they put out. Sierra you get data on their bullets with lots of different powders. Western you get data with their powders with various bullet brands. Get LOTS of manuals & when you think you've got enough, get twice as many again.
seaboss17 - Thanks for another of your posts..I have a black powder cap and ball revolver, but have never gotten around to getting black powder and caps for it. If I saw some black powder in one of the stores, I might have given it a try. Maybe I just didn't know where to look. Like you say...looks like a lot of fun - I'd probably start by doing BP in my 45 Colt cartridges (like 35 grains). Best regards...
Zack Jones- Thanks for the good comment, That's a great way to pick up specific data on a certain caliber - why not? - that's why the photo capability is in our phones - it's a photo and video world...and powders are still in short supply. I'm running low on my favorite powders as well...Best Regards...
One minor complaint I have about the book is that for the velocity we don't know what length barrel the bullet was shot from. As I'm sure you're aware it varies based on barrel length. I've taken pictures of the pages for the .38 special loads and have it on my phone. That way when shopping for powder which is very hard to find locally, I can check to see if I have load data for the powder that may be in stock.
Thank you for another great vid. Hey FC, do you ever shoot black powder? I've gotten back into shooting cap and ball revolvers due to the lack of ammo and components for my smokeless guns. Black powder is a lot of fun Thanks
I use the Lyman manual (and powder makers load data) I have not yet bought the Lee book, from your video it looks to have more data than the Lyman (and cheaper)!
I have the lyman cast bullet reloading manual which is wonderful! But i was thinking about picking this up to get some mixed jacketed/cast data. I think im going to pick this up today
Patmclean232 It is one of the finest manuals any reloader could have. I always use the Lee manual along with the Lyman Reloading Manual to cross reference load data... Good reloadin' to ya
Yeah for sure! I just got it yesterday and its awesome! I use lee presses as well so having the chart with the cc's and vmd's is awesome! The data is pretty awesome too! I also have the lyman cast bullets handbook.
So it focuses on lee bullets and components? Thats great! My lyman book is of no use with my new lee 145 gr 40 s&w cast bullets and my speer book harps only speer store bought jacketed bullets. Totally useless with either of my molds. I certainly look forward to finding a copy at cabelas this weekend.
I am loading .308 with IMR 3031, starting with the minimum charge off of Lyman's reload manual and I could already see a crater or a ring around the firing pin dimple left behind on the expended cases, the primers flatten but still has retain round edge, so how far could I back off on the charge to be safe to get to where I want just the dimple left from the firing pin and no craters is my goal, since those rounds started with the minimum charge of IMR 3031, the powder is about 60% fill in brass and make rattle sound when shake, I'm afraid to back off more... what is your take on this?
VVVvvvVVV Rider - Your pressure signs are warm, but not over pressure. Sounds like you are loading 150 grain bullets with about 36 grains of IMR 3031. That is not a heavy load. No need to back off below your starting charge. I don't have my Lyman manual with me at the office, but you can go to 36 grains if you are above that. I would not load under that. If factory ammo is shot, we can see flattened primers and slighly cratered primers as a matter of course. Since your primers aren't flattened, you may have some softer primers as well. When primers are really flattened, the primer flattens right to the edge of the primer pocket. A chorongraph is also handy to see what kind of velocity you are getting - if it meshes with what is in the Lyman manual starting load, you could either stay with it if you like or even up the charge a little monitoring the pressure signs. You might also be using brass with thicker walls upping your pressures. I like IMR 4064 or IMR 4895 or IMR 8208 XBR for the 308. But a lot of shooters like Varget... Best to ya, FC
hi i just got my lee manual today one thing i don't see is what type of primers tested with the powders but in end of chapter 5 it shows a list of primers. other company's show primer and powder tested with the load hope you can help thanks
+ocean374 - Great question. It always is helpful to have more than one reloading manual. A good rule on primers is we use standard primers whenever possible - faster burning powders for standard and +P loads. When shooting magnums with slow burning powders, magnum primers should be used. The Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Manual specifies when magnum primers should be used. If you have a specific powder and caliber, please comment me again and I would be glad to look the primer recommended for you... Best Regards FC
+John B -- Yes, it does - For the 158 grain XTP bullet start load 7.5 grains 962fps; for maximum load 8.5 grains 1078fps OAL 1.575". Of course, you should verify these numbers to protect from typos. If using other brands of jacketed bullets, would be advised to start a little below the 7.5 start charge and work up from there. If you are loading cast 158 grain bullets, you can start with 7 grains and work up. Good reloadin' to ya...
I have a Lee die over a year old and never used it I contacted Lee about it and they told me I would have to buy it online it's a $2.33 item with $8 shipping really you can't you can't just send it
Jonathan Rodriguez The data is published as 223 - there is no 5.56 in the Lee Manual. There's a lot of confusion over this. When I have checked 5.56 load data, identical bullets have published maximum charges for 5.56 lower, same and higher than published 223 data. It would be different if published 5.56 powder charges were all higher than 223 charges. But some powders are listed as 2/10ths grain higher max than .223 while other powders show 223 max to be more than 2/10ths higher than the 5.56 listed charges. If you used that 223 max load in your 5.56, you would be doing overloads if you abided by the 5.56 data. Best advice I can give you is the 223 data is good for the 5.56 - but use good reloading practices at all times - start low and work up looking at pressure signs. And watch out that your reloading dies aren't setting the shoulder back too far creating conditions of excess headspace that will cause head separation problems no matter what kind of load you are using...Sorry, you probably know all this already, but other readers may benefit from this... Best to ya
So I heard this book contains ‘updated reloading data and heavily promotes Lee products.... Except for the Lee bullet molds i bought from Midwayusa. I was under the impression that it has loading data for 9mm and 40 S&W Lee cast bullets for current mold weights. Too bad it was shrink wrapped at the store. It should be like the LYMAN book that gives you the bullet mold number. I am COMPLETLY DISAPPOINTED as Romeo looking for a new girlfriend and finding out he is in the midst of a nun convention. For the .40 S&W chart, it has cast bullet weight of 140 gr while Lee makes a 145 gr TC mold. The next entry is using a 140 barnes x solid bullet. The 175 gr lead bullet I am assuing uses the Lee 175 gr truncated cone but has a pathetic 2 powders listed. Looking for rifle data to load for a carbine, there are NO entries for either 9mm, 40S&W, .44 magnum. Maybe this could be included as part of the claimed 30,000 loads contained? What about 7.62 Tokarev? I did not find this particular one. If you seek to load a weird, forgotten caliber, this may be for you though it will not say on the rear cover review.
Wow 10yrs ago…..how far we have come, thank you for all the information you have given us.❤
I got the first edition back in the mid 90s for a birthday present from my dad when I was a teenager still use it today for reference. That book taught me a lot when I was just starting out. So I bought the second edition as soon as I learned it was in print it is a very informative book. The second edition has quite a bit more load data than the first.
Would you recommend the first book or the second edition? Looking for something to supplement my Hornady manual.
Good review. This is a modern loading book updated for today's calibers. It also complements the older books that still have info on loads of the past that are still viable today. Keep up the good work!
I looked at that one vs. Hornady's new one and I couldn't decide, so I bought both!
Looks Like a very good starter book as well. Value for money is something I have noticed from Lee as well. Nice to know this book has such a comprehensive list of load date, should serve anyone well regardless of what they shoot or their reloading experience, good to know and thanks for the review.
All the manufacturers emphasize their products the reload manuals they put out. Sierra you get data on their bullets with lots of different powders. Western you get data with their powders with various bullet brands. Get LOTS of manuals & when you think you've got enough, get twice as many again.
SultanOfShinola-Sounds like a very fine solution. Reloaders can always use good data. Thanks for taking the time to post...
All of LEE products are high value!!!
Spencer Smith - and I appreciate all your comments, please keep them coming as I have learned that posters are always responding to our Tube viewers.
I have couple loading data books, but Lee data book is one I always use. Thanx for cascading good info
YaskY-And thank you for taking the time to post from your successful experience…Best to ya...
For some reason data manuals have a way of multiplying on my bookshelf.........
Good vid FC!
seaboss17 - Thanks for another of your posts..I have a black powder cap and ball revolver, but have never gotten around to getting black powder and caps for it. If I saw some black powder in one of the stores, I might have given it a try. Maybe I just didn't know where to look. Like you say...looks like a lot of fun - I'd probably start by doing BP in my 45 Colt cartridges (like 35 grains). Best regards...
I always like your videos sir , ones again you fill my needs . Thank you for that .
Old Grumpy - And I always appreciate you dropping in with your comments... Have a great day, FC
Jon-Thanks for the comment. And for what we're getting, it's a great value as well. Have a great day...
Zack Jones- Thanks for the good comment, That's a great way to pick up specific data on a certain caliber - why not? - that's why the photo capability is in our phones - it's a photo and video world...and powders are still in short supply. I'm running low on my favorite powders as well...Best Regards...
Larry-Thanks for the encouraging word. It has already been useful. Sounds like you've been using it for a while...
One minor complaint I have about the book is that for the velocity we don't know what length barrel the bullet was shot from. As I'm sure you're aware it varies based on barrel length. I've taken pictures of the pages for the .38 special loads and have it on my phone. That way when shopping for powder which is very hard to find locally, I can check to see if I have load data for the powder that may be in stock.
A part was missing out of one of my guys the internal part that goes in the crimper and that was a $2.33 item
Thank you for another great vid. Hey FC, do you ever shoot black powder? I've gotten back into shooting cap and ball revolvers due to the lack of ammo and components for my smokeless guns. Black powder is a lot of fun
Thanks
I use the Lyman manual (and powder makers load data) I have not yet bought the Lee book, from your video it looks to have more data than the Lyman (and cheaper)!
PhillsGarage - Both of these manuals are invaluable for reloaders... Good reloadin' to ya. FC
Never used the Lee book. Looks like a good source of data.
I have the lyman cast bullet reloading manual which is wonderful! But i was thinking about picking this up to get some mixed jacketed/cast data. I think im going to pick this up today
Patmclean232 It is one of the finest manuals any reloader could have. I always use the Lee manual along with the Lyman Reloading Manual to cross reference load data... Good reloadin' to ya
Yeah for sure! I just got it yesterday and its awesome! I use lee presses as well so having the chart with the cc's and vmd's is awesome! The data is pretty awesome too! I also have the lyman cast bullets handbook.
Patmclean232 Thanks for your comment on this fine manual - Good reloadin' to ya...
Any time same to you ;)
So it focuses on lee bullets and components? Thats great! My lyman book is of no use with my new lee 145 gr 40 s&w cast bullets and my speer book harps only speer store bought jacketed bullets. Totally useless with either of my molds. I certainly look forward to finding a copy at cabelas this weekend.
Thanks for the recomendation on a excellent benchtop booo
bunkysdad-It was an easy recommendation because of its' usefulness…Have a great day
Hi does the latest manual have reload data for 7.62x51? (not 308 Win)
I am loading .308 with IMR 3031, starting with the minimum charge off of
Lyman's reload manual and I could already see a crater or a ring around
the firing pin dimple left behind on the expended cases, the primers
flatten but still has retain round edge, so how far could I back off on
the charge to be safe to get to where I want just the dimple left from
the firing pin and no craters is my goal, since those rounds started
with the minimum charge of IMR 3031, the powder is about 60% fill in
brass and make rattle sound when shake, I'm afraid to back off more...
what is your take on this?
VVVvvvVVV Rider - Your pressure signs are warm, but not over pressure. Sounds like you are loading 150 grain bullets with about 36 grains of IMR 3031. That is not a heavy load. No need to back off below your starting charge. I don't have my Lyman manual with me at the office, but you can go to 36 grains if you are above that. I would not load under that. If factory ammo is shot, we can see flattened primers and slighly cratered primers as a matter of course. Since your primers aren't flattened, you may have some softer primers as well. When primers are really flattened, the primer flattens right to the edge of the primer pocket. A chorongraph is also handy to see what kind of velocity you are getting - if it meshes with what is in the Lyman manual starting load, you could either stay with it if you like or even up the charge a little monitoring the pressure signs. You might also be using brass with thicker walls upping your pressures. I like IMR 4064 or IMR 4895 or IMR 8208 XBR for the 308. But a lot of shooters like Varget... Best to ya, FC
I would check scale calibration.
hi i just got my lee manual today one thing i don't see is what type of primers tested with the powders but in end of chapter 5 it shows a list of primers. other company's show primer and powder tested with the load hope you can help thanks
+ocean374 - Great question. It always is helpful to have more than one reloading manual. A good rule on primers is we use standard primers whenever possible - faster burning powders for standard and +P loads. When shooting magnums with slow burning powders, magnum primers should be used. The Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Manual specifies when magnum primers should be used. If you have a specific powder and caliber, please comment me again and I would be glad to look the primer recommended for you... Best Regards FC
Can you tell me does it give data on using power pistol for 357 - 158 grain using power pistol??
+John B -- Yes, it does - For the 158 grain XTP bullet start load 7.5 grains 962fps; for maximum load 8.5 grains 1078fps OAL 1.575". Of course, you should verify these numbers to protect from typos. If using other brands of jacketed bullets, would be advised to start a little below the 7.5 start charge and work up from there. If you are loading cast 158 grain bullets, you can start with 7 grains and work up. Good reloadin' to ya...
Thanks for the info
I have a Lee die over a year old and never used it I contacted Lee about it and they told me I would have to buy it online it's a $2.33 item with $8 shipping really you can't you can't just send it
does it have 556 data?
Jonathan Rodriguez The data is published as 223 - there is no 5.56 in the Lee Manual. There's a lot of confusion over this. When I have checked 5.56 load data, identical bullets have published maximum charges for 5.56 lower, same and higher than published 223 data. It would be different if published 5.56 powder charges were all higher than 223 charges. But some powders are listed as 2/10ths grain higher max than .223 while other powders show 223 max to be more than 2/10ths higher than the 5.56 listed charges. If you used that 223 max load in your 5.56, you would be doing overloads if you abided by the 5.56 data. Best advice I can give you is the 223 data is good for the 5.56 - but use good reloading practices at all times - start low and work up looking at pressure signs. And watch out that your reloading dies aren't setting the shoulder back too far creating conditions of excess headspace that will cause head separation problems no matter what kind of load you are using...Sorry, you probably know all this already, but other readers may benefit from this... Best to ya
thanks
So I heard this book contains ‘updated reloading data and
heavily promotes Lee products.... Except for the Lee bullet molds i bought from Midwayusa.
I was under the impression that it has loading data for 9mm and 40 S&W Lee cast
bullets for current mold weights. Too bad it was shrink wrapped at the store. It should be like the LYMAN book that gives you the bullet mold number.
I am COMPLETLY DISAPPOINTED as Romeo looking for a new girlfriend and finding out he is in the midst of a nun convention.
For the .40 S&W chart, it has cast bullet
weight of 140 gr while Lee makes a 145 gr TC mold.
The next entry is using a 140 barnes x solid bullet. The 175 gr lead bullet I am assuing uses the
Lee 175 gr truncated cone but has a pathetic 2 powders listed.
Looking for rifle data to load for a
carbine, there are NO entries for either 9mm, 40S&W, .44 magnum. Maybe this could be included
as part of the claimed 30,000 loads contained?
What about 7.62 Tokarev? I did not find this particular one.
If you seek to load a weird, forgotten
caliber, this may be for you though it will not say on the rear cover review.