man...your a cool dude man.....i love your videos...helps out a lot...i bet you would be a blast to rc with.....keep on keepin on and hope to see more videos.
@@IRONCLADRC one sw36 used another material similar to flex seal tape. My 2nd sw36 I went with the flex seal tape. Flex seal seemed sticker and stronger then the Vycor tape stuff I used on my first one.
Bought a Prop S2 from Chris Hoffman (Prop God) High 60s to 70 all day long. Added a 2 line rudder. One line for the esc and one for the motor. Drilled out the nipples added oversized hose. Stiffened up the hull with fiberglass strips. I race rc boats in NAMBA District 1. Most of you will not do what I'm going to explain. We remove the finish from the bottom of the hull starting at about 1/3 back from the bow. Why? because your boat will run FASTER. We use a fine grit sandpaper to remove the finish always sanding straight lines from bow to stern. Then a heavier grit to finish. You will see deeper sanding lines from the heaver grit in witch tiny microscopic air bubbles will form in the sanded grooves when the boat is running giving much less friction to the bottom as it glides over the water. "Do not wax it" Example: If you wax the top and feel the finish it is very smooth. Take another clean cloth without wax and rub the bottom, you won't believe the difference. Just saying.
Great informative video bro. It’s important for everyone to become familiar with their rc boat and these mods are an excellent way to do that and gain performance and durability. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Boat Gang
I used some Lexan I had laying around to help secure the batteries in the tray. Cut a piece of lexan out approximately 3"x8" and run double sided 3m tape across the supports on the battery tray. I then painted the lexan to match the hull color White and or Black and stuck it down with the double sided sticky tape. I then ran some adhesive backed velcro (female) side across the top of the lexan plate. I placed some male sided velcro on the bottom sides of the batteries and that seemed to help in flips. If your looking at tinkering with some stuff you should pick up the adapter plate from Mad_lizard to bolt up a TFL adjustable stinger to get her doing "60 KNOTS AND NO SMOKE"!
Yea man mad lizard is actually sending a couple goodies for the sonicwake. I'm stoked to see how the boat preforms with his upgrade package on the boat! Your modification sounds ironclad. I like using lean for projects myself it's a good medium to work with very versatile
@@IRONCLADRC Awesome! Can't wait for the video! What do you think about doing a DIY CF/Kevlar inlay on a Mono and on a cat for the channel? One of the things that I haven't seen much on here on UA-cam. Maybe even a series "IRONCLAD" Edition!!!
West Systems G Flex epoxy is you want for this. I use it on all my boats, fiberglass and ABS. Fixed the seam on my SW, did a full carbon fiber inlay on a Traxxas M41 and both have held up to some pretty hard crashes. All I do for prep is just sand with something fairly aggressive like 120-220 and wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
First and foremost I truly enjoy watching your videos and get a lot of useful information and tips for my rc boats and I want to thank you 👍. Now I need to vet on some products out there. Besides my sonicwake that I'm rebuilding I have a blackjack 42 that I got a few weeks ago and with that got some rc boatbitz upgrades one of them being the dual large cooling line's and fittings. After watching one of your videos did some investigating and sure enough the exit fittings are considerably smaller than the entrance. I mean shit it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize it doesn't matter how big the tubing is if the exit fittings are smaller even the stock entrance we didn't gain a fucking thing. I think a lot the company's are just about the money they can make 🤔 sorry about the rant. Love your videos!!
new to your channel. i was a drone pilots, then a Basher, and now getting into the boat sean. the sonic wake V2 36 is my first ride. you mention about sealing the seam. what about concrete tape and E6000 applied like fiberglass. would that work. i been doing all my basher bodies and make them a basher body im trying to learn hard and fast. lo ... have fun if your still into this.
Firstly, welcome aboard, Wish I could honestly answer this question unfortunately I'm not exactly sure what concrete tape is. I do know this, the v2 SonicWake has been pretty good about not busting the seem, the v1 had seem issues.. hope this helps in some way. BG4L. (Boat gang 4 life)
What up bro?...at 6:00...i was drilling mine out and i broke off one of the water fittings...i used a 5/32 or 3.90mm bit and drilled out the water shaft/hole in the esc and then inserted a 3.90mm copper tube thrtough the hole from hobby lobby and connected my water hose to it...by doing this i was able to get my temps down from 150 to 85-110 degrees...and its still a single water cooling set up...i havent received my duel cooling rudder yet but so far it works great...i might have gotten lucky with how big of a bit i used so i wouldnt recommend it...i was already mad and said "screw it" and it worked out for me...(MY EDIT)...i started out using a small bit and was stepping it up a little bit at a time until it broke...dont use a big bit first, always us a small bit and work your way up
That sucks bro. I ACTUALLY wanted to mod mine with a copper/brass tube like you ended up doing. I bet it did bring your temperature down big Time its Amazing how much of a difference it makes. 👊 🤜
@@IRONCLADRC ...yeah it did help...i think copper absorbs heat and gets rid of it quickly...i stopped at a 3.90mmish bit witch is supposed to be 5/32 but with my calliper it measured 3.90mm and the copper tubing from hobby lobby was around the same...3.91-93mm...i only did the one side that i messed up but i did drill out the other side a little bit but was able to use the stock water fittings...i may go ahead and drill out the other side before my duel water rudder gets here just to see if that helps even more...i need a recovery boat just in case so ive been debating on building an air boat or building a jet boat:)...anyways, keep up the good work bro and i really appreciate your videos..they help me out a lot.
I used to live near an inlet by a harbor but the seawater always got in the boat and end up destroying most of everything despite using fresh water to rinse off the pieces after every run
OMG!!!..10:00....FREAKING DUH!!!!!!!......damn bro, i went all the way to the other side of town to lowes to get some nylon bolts to use on my rudder for break away...didnt even think about using one of my 1 million zip ties that i have!!!!
@@IRONCLADRC They will both "work", but obviously, one will work better. They are both "solvent weld" compounds containing acetone, methyl ethyl ketone and similar VOCs as primary ingredients to dissolve the plastic. The difference is in quantities and special additives for the specific plastic.
Doc. Your gonna cringe when you watch tomorrow's video upload. If you have a weak stomach I suggest you not watch it. Lol. Well there's nothing funny about it. 😔
man...your a cool dude man.....i love your videos...helps out a lot...i bet you would be a blast to rc with.....keep on keepin on and hope to see more videos.
Flex seal tape is another idea.
Awesome tips man you have. Very informative video
Oh yea you used that on your sonicwake, or was it something else. ?
@@IRONCLADRC one sw36 used another material similar to flex seal tape.
My 2nd sw36 I went with the flex seal tape. Flex seal seemed sticker and stronger then the Vycor tape stuff I used on my first one.
Thanks for the shoutout big b . as I already have a big block sonic wake won't be buying the v2. keep up the good content 😛
Yea man it was a good idea. 💡 I hear ya on the v2
Bought a Prop S2 from Chris Hoffman (Prop God) High 60s to 70 all day long. Added a 2 line rudder. One line for the esc and one for the motor. Drilled out the nipples added oversized hose. Stiffened up the hull with fiberglass strips. I race rc boats in NAMBA District 1. Most of you will not do what I'm going to explain. We remove the finish from the bottom of the hull starting at about 1/3 back from the bow. Why? because your boat will run FASTER. We use a fine grit sandpaper to remove the finish always sanding straight lines from bow to stern. Then a heavier grit to finish. You will see deeper sanding lines from the heaver grit in witch tiny microscopic air bubbles will form in the sanded grooves when the boat is running giving much less friction to the bottom as it glides over the water. "Do not wax it" Example: If you wax the top and feel the finish it is very smooth. Take another clean cloth without wax and rub the bottom, you won't believe the difference. Just saying.
I agree I sanded/scoffed my deltaforce 35 & the boat floats on the water at high speed
Great informative video bro. It’s important for everyone to become familiar with their rc boat and these mods are an excellent way to do that and gain performance and durability. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Boat Gang
No problem brother. Glad i can help. BOAT GANG
I used some Lexan I had laying around to help secure the batteries in the tray. Cut a piece of lexan out approximately 3"x8" and run double sided 3m tape across the supports on the battery tray. I then painted the lexan to match the hull color White and or Black and stuck it down with the double sided sticky tape. I then ran some adhesive backed velcro (female) side across the top of the lexan plate. I placed some male sided velcro on the bottom sides of the batteries and that seemed to help in flips.
If your looking at tinkering with some stuff you should pick up the adapter plate from Mad_lizard to bolt up a TFL adjustable stinger to get her doing "60 KNOTS AND NO SMOKE"!
Yea man mad lizard is actually sending a couple goodies for the sonicwake. I'm stoked to see how the boat preforms with his upgrade package on the boat!
Your modification sounds ironclad. I like using lean for projects myself it's a good medium to work with very versatile
@@IRONCLADRC Awesome! Can't wait for the video! What do you think about doing a DIY CF/Kevlar inlay on a Mono and on a cat for the channel? One of the things that I haven't seen much on here on UA-cam. Maybe even a series "IRONCLAD" Edition!!!
West Systems G Flex epoxy is you want for this. I use it on all my boats, fiberglass and ABS. Fixed the seam on my SW, did a full carbon fiber inlay on a Traxxas M41 and both have held up to some pretty hard crashes. All I do for prep is just sand with something fairly aggressive like 120-220 and wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
Oh OK I didn't Know that G flex was for ABS that's awesome man thank you very much that's what I would use For sure
First and foremost I truly enjoy watching your videos and get a lot of useful information and tips for my rc boats and I want to thank you 👍. Now I need to vet on some products out there. Besides my sonicwake that I'm rebuilding I have a blackjack 42 that I got a few weeks ago and with that got some rc boatbitz upgrades one of them being the dual large cooling line's and fittings. After watching one of your videos did some investigating and sure enough the exit fittings are considerably smaller than the entrance. I mean shit it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize it doesn't matter how big the tubing is if the exit fittings are smaller even the stock entrance we didn't gain a fucking thing. I think a lot the company's are just about the money they can make 🤔 sorry about the rant. Love your videos!!
The nipple in the exit is really there to hold the cooling line into the boat so the cooling line doesn't fall out.
Lovin it BIG B
new to your channel. i was a drone pilots, then a Basher, and now getting into the boat sean. the sonic wake V2 36 is my first ride. you mention about sealing the seam. what about concrete tape and E6000 applied like fiberglass. would that work. i been doing all my basher bodies and make them a basher body im trying to learn hard and fast. lo ... have fun if your still into this.
Firstly, welcome aboard, Wish I could honestly answer this question unfortunately I'm not exactly sure what concrete tape is. I do know this, the v2 SonicWake has been pretty good about not busting the seem, the v1 had seem issues.. hope this helps in some way. BG4L. (Boat gang 4 life)
my old impulse V3 had a stock 40mm can in it loved that boat they should have put that motor in the sonicwake v1
That was a strong motor for sure.
A good quality Automotive Wax on the hull ‘ less friction = more speed.
Thanks brother
i use razor blades for my turn fins, talking about cutting water.
What up bro?...at 6:00...i was drilling mine out and i broke off one of the water fittings...i used a 5/32 or 3.90mm bit and drilled out the water shaft/hole in the esc and then inserted a 3.90mm copper tube thrtough the hole from hobby lobby and connected my water hose to it...by doing this i was able to get my temps down from 150 to 85-110 degrees...and its still a single water cooling set up...i havent received my duel cooling rudder yet but so far it works great...i might have gotten lucky with how big of a bit i used so i wouldnt recommend it...i was already mad and said "screw it" and it worked out for me...(MY EDIT)...i started out using a small bit and was stepping it up a little bit at a time until it broke...dont use a big bit first, always us a small bit and work your way up
That sucks bro. I ACTUALLY wanted to mod mine with a copper/brass tube like you ended up doing. I bet it did bring your temperature down big Time its Amazing how much of a difference it makes. 👊 🤜
@@IRONCLADRC ...yeah it did help...i think copper absorbs heat and gets rid of it quickly...i stopped at a 3.90mmish bit witch is supposed to be 5/32 but with my calliper it measured 3.90mm and the copper tubing from hobby lobby was around the same...3.91-93mm...i only did the one side that i messed up but i did drill out the other side a little bit but was able to use the stock water fittings...i may go ahead and drill out the other side before my duel water rudder gets here just to see if that helps even more...i need a recovery boat just in case so ive been debating on building an air boat or building a jet boat:)...anyways, keep up the good work bro and i really appreciate your videos..they help me out a lot.
woow very interesting..
I used to live near an inlet by a harbor but the seawater always got in the boat and end up destroying most of everything despite using fresh water to rinse off the pieces after every run
Yea salt water is terrible for rc period. I hate to hear that
have you had to upgrade the flex shaft to a .187 on the sonicwake 36" to run on 6s? Thanks!
SonicWake comes with a .187 cable, I did get a upgraded HD cable from ose
Is is possible to run a Deep V Hull without trim tabs?
Yes sir. Some hulls run better than others without trimtabs. But yes you can running w/o tabs
OMG!!!..10:00....FREAKING DUH!!!!!!!......damn bro, i went all the way to the other side of town to lowes to get some nylon bolts to use on my rudder for break away...didnt even think about using one of my 1 million zip ties that i have!!!!
I've done the same thing. Lol quick fix on the water
NOT PVC glue... 🙄 Use ABS glue and a thin strip of ABS plastic as a doubler.
Dan I must of gotten your comment mixed up with another. I think the pvc glue would work?
@@IRONCLADRC ABS cement (glue ) much better the PVC cement.
@@IRONCLADRC They will both "work", but obviously, one will work better. They are both "solvent weld" compounds containing acetone, methyl ethyl ketone and similar VOCs as primary ingredients to dissolve the plastic. The difference is in quantities and special additives for the specific plastic.
Doc. Your gonna cringe when you watch tomorrow's video upload. If you have a weak stomach I suggest you not watch it. Lol. Well there's nothing funny about it. 😔
@@IRONCLADRC Hmmm.... Does it involve flames?
Not PVC cement.... use ABS cement.
Thank you
I will be using ABS cement soon. Will apply with a syringe.